SHALOM TEL AVIV

Tel Aviv! by Rebecca Underwood

Winery, Tel Aviv

© Tel Aviv Museum of Art

© Carmel Market's Treasures © Tel Aviv courtesy Dana Friedlander for the Israeli Ministry of Tourism

Tel Aviv, which translates to ‘tell of spring’, is a bustling cosmopolitan city and it’s simply bursting with joie de vivre. Nestled on the glittering waters of the Israeli Mediterranean and with nine miles of pristine beaches it has been recognised, by National Geographic, as one of the world’s top ten best beach-cities. Tel Aviv has the largest GDP throughout the Middle East, attracts more than 2.5 m illion visitors annually, and of course there is much to explore and admire. Founded by the Yishuv (a Jewish community) in 1909, Tel Aviv was once a neighbourhood on the periphery of Jaffa, where archaeological finds provide evidence of human settlement dating back to approximately 7,500 BC. The ancient port of Jaffa, known as Yafo, is referred to in the Hebrew Bible as the border of the land given t o t he Tribe of Dan as they entered the Promised Land. Jaffa is mentioned again as the landing port for the cedars of Lebanon, which were used for the construction of Solomon’s Temple and the Second Temple of Jerusalem, and it was also Jonah’s embarkation port when he set sail for Tarshish, rather than Nineveh, in defiance of God’s will. My explorations of Tel Aviv began with a leisurely stroll along t he w ide promenade, which follows the shoreline for 14 kilometres, and whilst breathing in the salty air, the enticing golden sands of Gordon Beach emerged and I spotted the salt water swimming pool, surrounded by verdant lawns. Perched on a comfy bench, I took the opportunity to watch a lively game on the volleyball court and in order to mingle with the ‘in crowd’ I made my way to Mike’s Place, located o n Retsif Herbert Samuel Street, for a spot of lunch. Keen to experience the true ‘vibe’ of the city and to become part of the local community, if only for a short while, I opted to stay in a trendy two bedroom, air-conditioned apartment, located within the Isrotel Tower on HaYarkon St. The property is 300 metres away from Bugrashov Beach and within walking distance to Rothschild Boulevard, which is in t he heart of the ‘White City’. Admired for its abundance of properties reflecting the Bauhaus architectural style, the area was awarded UNESCO World Heritage Site status in 2003. I immediately settled into the stylish apartment with its spacious lounge and plump sofa and the adjoining balcony provided an absolutely stunning view of the city and proved to be an unbeatable place for a late afternoon tipple . The kitchen features every appliance including a dishwasher and a washer/dryer and all the utensils needed for whipping up a quick breakfast after a restful sleep in the ultra

comfortable bed. Guests are welcome to use the facilities within the Isrotel Tower, which includes a gorgeous open-air swimming pool surrounded by comfy sun loungers and an impressive gymnasium. Up with the larks I made my way to Carmel Market and blending in with the locals I purchased my groceries and browsed along the stalls. This is surely the heart of Tel Aviv, the hustle and bustle, the colourfu l flo wer and fruit displays, the enticing aromas emanating from the heaps of fresh spices, and the plethora of traders beckoning shoppers to approach their stalls. Considering a tranquil setting where I might enjoy my newly purchased snacks, I hopped on a local bus bound for Yarkon Park. Covering an area of 3.5 kilometres the park is named after the Yarkon River, which flows gently through it, and it fe at ures one of the largest rock gardens in the world with more than 3,500 plant species. I followed the trail to the tropical garden, along a wooden corridor and, shaded by the rustling fronds of the tall palm trees, I paused to admire the most beautiful collection of orchids. A perfect seating area came into view and whilst I sat beside the river devouring my tasty titbits I decided to spend the aftern oon at Tel Aviv’s Museum of Art on Shaul HaMelech Blvd. The extensive collections of contemporary works date from the mid-nineteenth century to the present and include the world’s largest collection of Israeli art. I must confess that I spent the majority of my time in the galleries dedicated to European art, dating back to the sixteenth century, and I was utterly enthralled with Ruben’s Portrait of Madam e de Vicq, dated 1625, which is displayed in the main gallery. Alas, time was racing ahead and it was time to return to my apartment and rustle up a dinner. I admit that my cooking skills are rather limited and rather than to do battle in the kitchen, I headed for Claro, an excellent Mediterranean restaurant located on Ha’arbaa Street. Housed in an enormous original Templar building, dating back to 1 886, the property served as the headquarters of the British command during WWII. The building later became the military headquarters ‘Joshua Camp’ and on the eve of Israel’s Declaration of Independence Hebrew postage stamps were printed on the site and it was then the official State Printing Office. In 1950 the Bank of Israel began operating in the property and the massive vault door still takes pride o f place in the basement. From 1963 the property was used by the Mossad and then functioned as an archive for the Israeli Ministry of Defence. Today, Claro is a hive of culinary activities and I was fortunate to be seated right beside the open kitchen where I could view a bevy of chefs creating scrumptious dishes. My time in Tel Aviv was coming to an end and with so much left to explore, I decided to e xtend my stay. Seeking some high end pampering, I headed for the Drisco Hotel, a luxurious property, which is a member of the Leading Hotels of the World and located on Auerbach Street, in the heart of Jaffa. Erected in 1866, the building had been unoccupied since the 1950’s. Extensive renovations, which lasted a decade, have breathed new life into this elegant property and it has retained many of its o riginal features. Accommodations are lavishly furnished and I was fortunate to be housed in a luxury one bedroom suite measuring 65 square metres and with a furnished, private terrace, which provides views over Tel Aviv, Jaffa, and the hotel’s private garden and internal Piazza. The sumptuously furnished suite includes a lounge with a plump leather sofa, luxurious carpeting, and a Smart 55” LCD TV. Th e s eparate bedroom features an ultra comfortable king-size bed swathed in crisp Egyptian linens and the spacious bathroom offers a bathtub with a separate walk-in shower and a generous selection of fragrant Molton Brown products. After a deep slumber I was ready for the extravagant breakfast buffet, which includes healthy options and, I have to divulge, that I succumbed to the temptations of a cooked br eakfas t followed by a freshly baked pastry. Feeling a trifle guilty, I embarked on a brisk walk around the local area heading towards Jaffa Port. The myriad of alleyways feature intriguing little shops selling all kinds of delightful trinkets, trendy art galleries, and busy bars and restaurants all vying for attention with the subtle aim of persuading those passing by to part with a few Israeli Shekel s. Se arching for a more unique gift, I headed for the Jaffa Flea Market, which is the ideal spot for rummaging through stalls piled high with all manner of goods. I spotted a few antique stalls and practiced my bartering skills to secure a bargain. For a delicious lunch, Regina, located on Neve Tzedek, is just the ticket. Bustling with activity, this renowned kosher restaurant is housed in a property, b uilt in the 19th century, and it features a beautiful inner courtyard festooned with plants and scented flowers and it feels as if you are a world away from the city. As I admired the glittering chandeliers and large wooden shutters a charming waiter appeared from nowhere to take my order. Outside, with Jaffa bathed in the glow of golden sunlight I embarked on a long walk to Yefet Street, the site of St Pe ter’s Church, and I passed by the imposing limestone Clock Tower, which was built in 1903, and dedicated to the last Ottoman sultans. St Peter’s Church was originally built in 1654 but in the 18th century it was destroyed. Rebuilt in the 19th century and renovated in 1903, it is the largest structure in Jaffa and with its high vaulted ceiling, magnificent stained glass windows and marble interior wit h pan els reflecting the life of St. Peter, it is absolutely mesmerising. The church was constructed on this site due to the area’s links with Christianity as it was in Jaffa that Tabitha, one of the disciples, was raised from the dead by St. Peter, as recorded in the Acts of the Apostles. My final night in Jaffa was drawing to an end and I headed for the hotel’s Rooftop Deck and watched the glow of t he s unset over the city, whilst reclining on a comfy lounger and sipping on a sweet cocktail. I opted to dine in the hotel’s George and John Restaurant, which presents modern Israeli dishes with Mediterranean influences and in the most glamorous surroundings. I sampled the classic Dover sole, served with potato puree, and accompanied by a glass of Roussane, Chateau Golan 2016, the flavours were sublime, an d, as expected, the service is outstanding. Reflecting on my time in this wonderful city I held my glass high and proposed a toast; ‘Shalom Tel Aviv and Toda (thank you)!’ 'TOP TIP' FLIGHTS Fly from Luton, Stanstead and Gatwick direct to Tel Aviv. For more information visit easyjet.com TOP TIP: ACCOMMODATION For more information on the featured property (#1604983), and more across the world, visit the m ost trusted holiday rental company:homeaway.co.uk. 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