m a k e wav e s
Spring calls for boldness in spirit and style. Meet the women sparking a revolution + dive into the season’s best shoes, shades and surfer hair
spring 2017 | vancouver
SPORTY WITH SPICE NEXT, $122
C RE AT E D I N C O L L A BO R AT I O N W I T H H U D S O N ’ S BAY S H O P T H E BAY.C O M
BLUE CRUSH
Update your swim wardrobe with an ocean-inspired hue.
ULTIMATE COLOUR-BLOCKING DESIGN LAB, Top $56, Bottoms $48. Exclusively Ours.
ENDS MARCH 24, 2017
ON-TREND EMBROIDERY JESSICA SIMPSON, Top: $86 Bottoms $69
DIVE IN Take the plunge in the splashiest suits of the season.
PERFECTLY PATTERNED LIV, Rashguard: $54 Bottoms: $50
C RE AT E D I N C O L L A BO R AT I O N W I T H H U D S O N ’ S BAY S H O P T H E BAY.C O M
editor’s letter SP I R I T E D A W AY
Photography: Andrew Soule. Hair and makeup: Wendy Rorung for Plutino Group/ Moroccanoil/ Nars. Beaufille top, $895, Hudson’s Bay
Muse: Jane Birkin or Birkin progeny Lou Doillon, Charlotte Gainsbourg. Vibe: Bed-head, sleepy eyes, je ne sais quoi to burn. Arrondissement: 10th. Hangout: Le Syndicat, a dive bar with rare cognac on the menu and hip hop on the stereo. Perfect Sunday: Sleeping until sunset, nipping into Isabel Marant, late-night oysters at hot new resto Le Grand Bain. Express jacket, $128, Express.ca. Birks necklace, $495, birks.com. Gianvito Rossi shoes, $900, gianvitorossi. com. Marc Cain pants, $360, Marc Cain. French Girl Organics lip tint in Aphrodesie, $16, etsy.com. CHANEL Le Blanc Sérum, $170, CHANEL counters. L’Oréal Professionnel French Girl Hair Messy Cliché, $26, L’Oréal Professionnel salons
Laura de Carufel, Editor-in-chief @thekitca
@thekit
thekitca
thekitca
adeam Catherine Deneuve
Editor-in-Chief
Laura deCarufel @LauradeCarufel
Creative Director
Jessica Hotson @jesshotson executive Editor
Kathryn Hudson @hudsonkat Beauty director Isabelle Huppert
Rani Sheen @ranisheen
Carla Bruni Sarkozy
fashion Editor
Jillian Vieira @JillianVieira
managing Editor
Eden Boileau @lilyedenface
Assistant Editor
Veronica Saroli @vsaroli
Associate Art Directors
delpozo
Sonya van Heyningen @svanh7 Kristy Wright @creativewithak
Publisher
Giorgina Bigioni Project Director, Digital Media
Kelly Matthews collab director
Evie Begy eb@thekit.ca
senior innovations Designer
Amber Hickson
collab coordinator
Sarah Chan
marketing coordinator
Nikki Lewis
Contributors
chloÉ
o! The world has gone crazy, right? Current events are so uniquely strange that one could be forgiven for wanting to paint herself into the background, Veruschka styles—all unblinking eyes and watchful silence— breaking only occasionally to slick on Ruby Woo and swig from a bottle of Jack. (Desperate times require both power lips and steady nerves.) The state of the world and of women was top of mind as the Kit team mapped out this Escape Issue. Our first goal, as always, was to make you happy. Designers responded to the current climate by showing clothes bristling with unapologetic optimism, an explosion of pastels and neon, exaggerated ruffles and creative lamé. In this issue, we’re channelling a similar unbowed spirit. The sartorial escapism includes citrus-tinted shades, shoes that make you feel like you’re living your best life and a fashion feature shot in impossibly cool, impossibly vibrant Montego Bay (“How I Wander,” page 22). It’s your guide to steering through this wild ride with a grin and a wink—and really good crimped hair. But it’s also your handbook to confronting what it feels like to be a woman right now, in all its hopeful, angry, dreamy, righteous glory. In “Boiling Over” (page 28), writer Nancy Won breaks down why she and “every woke woman” she knows are completely full of rage. (Hands up if you relate.) The kick-ass activists profiled in “Words Matter” (page 32) share what sparks their fiery resolve to fight for change. Oh, and denim finally goes to see a therapist. (You have to see it: page 30.) The overall message is that it’s not a time to hide, whether in neutrals or behind a smartphone. It’s a time to be bold, to be out there, to make your voice heard. It’s a challenge all of us are up to accepting, especially when we work together. I’d love to hear what you think. Connect with me @LauradeCarufel with #thekitcompact.
Isabelle Adjani
Jane Birkin
Lou Doillon
chanel
ellery
chloÉ
3.1 phillip lim
Betty Catroux, Yves Saint Laurent and Loulou De La Falaise
S
left bank
6
bottega veneta
T h e E s c a p e I s s u e
Anne T. Donahue, Maya Fuhr, Donna Fung, Hamin Lee, Luis Mora, Lauren Pirie, Wendy Rorong, Sarah Said, Shalan and Paul, Andrew Soule, Jenna Marie Wakani, Nancy Won Interns
Gabrielle Bohna, Amy Chen, Melissa Dunphy, Yasmin Momeni The Kit is Canada’s beauty and style leader © 2017, The Kit, a division of Toronto Star Newspapers Limited.
right bank
Muse: Carla Bruni Sarkozy. Vibe: Honestly? “Let them eat cake.” Arrondissement: 1st (always). Hangout: Rue Cambon. Perfect Sunday: Breezing through the new Musée de Parfum, lunching at the refurbished Ritz, buying an island. Chanel bag, $4, 225, Chanel boutiques. Rudsak dress, $175, rudsak.com. Tory Burch shoes, $465, toryburch.com. Stella McCartney coat, $3,385, far fe tc h .co m . B i ko e ar ri n g s , $ 49, i loveb i ko. com. Maison Francis Kurkdjian À la rose Eau de parfum, $338, saksfifthavenue.com. Phyto Phytoelixir Subtle Oil Intense Nutrition oil, $45, Shoppers Drug Mart. Guerlain Orchidée Impériale the cream, $510, guerlain counters
compact
Acting Publisher, Toronto Star, and Acting president, Star Media Group
David Holland
Editor-in-Chief, Toronto Star
Michael Cooke
photography: peter stigter (runway); getty images (black and white photos, lim); shalan and paul (decarufel). hair and makeup: wendy rorong for plutino group/Moroccanoil/nars (decarufel)
on the cover
When I was 15, I spent a year in Paris, and it’s my favourite escape toujours, whether I’m feeling more downtown Left Bank or uptown Right Bank. (I’m always feeling Parisian pastry.)
| spring 2017 | thekit.ca
follow us
If you see The Kit editors out, come say hi—or hang with us on Twitter, Facebook, Instagram, Snapchat and Pinterest to get style inspo, office gossip and behind-the-scenes snaps.
@ thekitca
thekitca
hit up thekit.ca
We bring you the latest beauty, fashion and celebrity news, plus up-to-theminute shopping ideas—whether you’re working from a café (#praisefreewifi) or chilling with your tablet in the tub.
@ thekit
meet our l o c a l I N FLUE N CERS
thekit
Canada’s beauty + style leader
We’re working with the ultimate squad of cool girls across Vancouver. Their goal? To keep you in the know about the latest and greatest happenings in your ’hood.
Connect with us, wherever you are
HOLI DAY
OUVE 2016 | VANC
R
FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 10, 2017
the kit c h i n e s e e d i t i on
The Kit Chinese covers the hottest fashion and beauty tre nds , curate d for th e Vancouver community. 星期四二月二號2017年
女人裝
渴望擁有
皇族貴氣 奢華香水的 新代名詞代表
AYS THE HOLID s good enough H O M E F O R y looks, major glitter lips, shoe stay in
part etimes, cool girls this season? Chill Our gift to you eat and the reminder that, som to
THE KIT C O M PACT
Our pop-up mag is distributed free in Vancouver every month! A little cheeky, a lot smart, The Kit Compact is plugged in to fashion, beauty and pop culture. Plus, sign up for our newsletters for the scoop on cool openings, shopping deals and events.
page 5
美容告白
化妝潮流趨勢 「化妝並非是遮蓋妳的 瑕疵令妳變成最漂亮的 人，化妝是關於「怎樣 通過妝容向大家說出我 的故事？」
the kit
Check out this weekly beauty and style must-read in select copies of the Thursday Vancouver Sun.
page 3
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: GIORGIO ARMANI, PRABAL GURUNG, OSCAR DE LA RENTA, J.W. ANDERSON, EMILIO PUCCI, EMILIO PUCCI, PRABAL GURUNG, TOPSHOP, MICHAEL KORS, RODARTE. PHOTOS: PETER STIGTER
SPRING TREND REPORT
購物指南
舒適時尚
精彩的冬裝主義
What is the number-one fashion piece to buy this season? How should you switch up your mani? Can grown-ups really wear pink? Our guide to the season’s top 13 get-happy essentials will leave you jumping for joy
page 3 時尚專集
約會 裝扮特輯
BY JILLIAN VIEIRA AND RANI SHEEN
“Come on, get happy!” It was the song that echoed through Michael Kors’s Spring 2017 show in New York. Backed by a six-piece band, Rufus Wainwright jubilantly belted out the tune as models bounced down the runway in ’60s floral prints and retro bathing suits. It was an all-over-chills experience—one that set the tone for the rest of Fashion Month. The overall mood this sartorial season is optimistic: Clothes are less serious and the beauty messages are full of joy and ease. And in a sign of the revolutionary times, unabashedly female artists ruled the runways: Dior newbie Maria Grazia Chiuri showed slogan tees stating “We should all be feminists” and makeup artist Val Garland made waves with her whimsical glitter-painted ears at Giambattista Valli. We are hopeful because the spring shows pointed to one conclusion: In fashion, at least, things are looking up. So read on for our best tips on how to wear these haute-happy trends.
情人節時尚造型最佳參考，浪漫的 日子儘顯魅力 page 7 問與答
STAY CONNECTED
THEKIT.CA
@THEKIT
@THEKITCA
THEKITCA
THEKIT
光芒畢露
THE KIT MAGAZINE
秀出才華， 妳準備好了嗎？ page 5 攝影 PETER STIGTER
保持聯繫
NEW
THE No. 1 MASCARA IN CANADA* NOW HAS A PRIMER
THEKIT.CA
@THEKIT
@THEKITCA
THEKITCA
THEKIT
THE KIT MAGAZINE
out & about
A Day Off in vancouver
“Anything is peaceful from 1,353 feet.”
Spring has finally sprung and, 31 years after the release of classic flick Ferris Bueller’s Day Off, we’re still not above faking sick to ditch the desk scene. So here’s the best way to kick it around the city, Bueller-style. Who’s with us? Anyone? Anyone?
get high
2
Instead of going to the Sears Tower like Bueller and Co., head to the top of the Vancouver Lookout (555 W. Hastings St.), lean forward against the glass and soak up the scenery.
stock up
5 find meaning While Cameron got all meta at the Art Institute of Chicago, you should visit the Vancouver Art Gallery (750 Hornby St.) for We Come to Witness: Sonny Assu in Dialogue with Emily Carr to see the iconic B.C. artist’s work digitally tagged by Assu (until April 23).
While Ferris worked his trader hand signals at the Chicago Board of Trade, we’d rather swap vintage clothes, thanks. Bring your best retro duds to the beautifully appointed Hunter & Hare (334 W. Pender St.) and pick up extra cash to spend on some new old gems.
3 manger franÇais A fancy lunch is key. Make a fake reso at Le Crocodile (100-909 Burrard St.) under “Sausage King of Vancouver” for full Ferris effect. Though it lacks the absurd pretentiousness of the film’s Chez Quis, the award-winning resto has been an icon for fine French dining for more than 30 years.
4 get ready to score Our fave slackers hit up Wrigley Field, but you’re Canadian, so head to the Rogers Arena (800 Griffiths Way) for a Canucks home game.
7 take the plunge
Spaced Invaders by Sonny Assu.
6 dance like everyone’s watching
While Sloane brought the boys back to her pool, we suggest you cap your day off with a trip to the Sense spa at the Rosewood Hotel Georgia (801 W. Georgia St.). Booking a spa treatment gets you access to the hotel’s super-sleek pool, complete with colour-changing lights.
“You’re not dying, you just can’t think of anything good to do.”
best city escapes
You probably won’t come across a parade with a German float blasting “Danke Schoen” or “Twist and Shout,” but you can satisfy your burning need to perform at a drop-in dance class at the Harbour Dance Centre (927 Granville St.).
8
Eat local
W h er e I n s ta-s ta r K i a r a S ch wa r t z (@tobruckave) heads to reset in the city “When I need to escape reality for a minute, I go to the Cross Decor & Design (1198 Homer St.). It’s the most incredible interior design and decor store I’ve ever seen. What makes it an escape rather than just a boutique is that it feels like a little dream world as soon as you step inside. I like to imagine it as a gallery where I can just insert myself into my dream home.”
Pop in to Harvest Community Foods (243 Union St.) in Chinatown for a comforting treat. Dig into a steaming bowl of vegan udon noodles with shiso tofu and shiitake—or opt for the hearty pork shoulder and candied bacon ramen. You can also pick up a few locally sourced groceries and gifts at the in-resto shop.
Unwind over a cuppa
Head over to the new super-stylish flagship of Singapore-founded TWG Tea Salon & Boutique (1070 W. Georgia St.) to pick up specialty blends f ro m a ro u n d th e world (think Golden Rose tea) or one of 500 unique singleestate harvests.
compact
text: veronica saroli and eden boileau. photography: Courtesy of Sonny Assu (Spaced Invaders, 2014, digital intervention on an Emily Carr painting [Heina, 1928]); istockphoto (puck); instagram.com @tobruckave (schwartz), @thecrossdesign (cross design), @harvestunion (eat local), @hunterandhare (vintage)
1
| spring 2017 | thekit.ca
the two of us
gillian & meredith For these stylish besties, creativity is contagious Photography by Jenna Marie Wakani
by design
These pals have the artisti c s p e c t r u m c ove re d : Gillian Mapp, 27, works as a portrait photographer a n d sing e r-so ngwrite r, while 28-year-old Meredith Jay’s CV includes titles like multidisciplinary artist, creative director and curator. These days, the duo work together on a music and arts collective called the Build, which aims to highlight local female talent. “With everything that is g oing o n in th e world, we want to bring the focus back to women and the support needed for those who continue to be oppressed,” says Gillian.
fast friends
Intro d uce d by G illia n’s twin sister more than two years ago, the pair clicked and began collaborating on creative photo shoots. “The friends I surround myself with are important mentors,” says Meredith. “ They ’re extremely talented individuals that hold me to a degree of inspiration, wisdom and stamina.”
style setters
The two name-check big, bold fashion influences ( B i a n c a J a g g e r, G r a ce J ones , Pat ti Smith and B u f f y, o f t h e v a m p i r e slayage) and shout out Toronto-based designer Hayley Elsaesser for her “bossy ” aesthetic . “ It ’s never been about brands and trends, though,” says Meredith . “ Fashion has helped me find agency regardless of how much money I’ve had. It’s about creation and individual expression. It’s about me.” —Jillian Vieira
Gillian Mapp (left) and Meredith Jay wear the pants (by local designers Hayley Elsaesser and Michons Marigot, respectively) in Toronto’s Kensington Market.
thekit.ca | spring 2017 |
compact
9
J O I N T H E K I T CONNECT CONFERENCE APRIL 4 & 5, 2017 We get it: Breaking into the fashion and beauty industry isn’t easy. That’s why we’re launching the first annual The Kit Connect Conference—in partnership with the Canadian Arts & Fashion Awards—to help kick-start the careers of fashion enthusiasts looking for a way in. Want to work in fashion? We’re here to help.
APRIL 4 | S H O P P I N G P R E - PA R T Y Network and mingle with The Kit editors and other Canadian fashion industry leaders.
APRIL 5 | 2 13 ST E RL ING RD, Lower Junction
Hear directly from top-tier talent, who will share tips, advice and stories on how they got their start, in moderated panel discussions.
The Panelists THE MARKETERS
THE ARTISTS
The experts who reach a stylesavvy audience with bullseye precision, from brand managers to marketing directors
The visionaries who create incredible editorial shoots and inspiring ads, from photographers to hair and makeup artists
T H E R E TA I L E R S
THE DESIGNERS
The authorities who understand what people want to buy before they do
The brilliant minds behind wearable art, from designers to pattern makers
THE EDITORS
The creative crew who curates compelling print and digital content, from fashion & beauty editors to editors-in-chief
T H E B LO G G E R S
The in-the-know It crowd who rule the social space, from bloggers to influencer agents
GET T ICKETS AT
cafawards.ca/the-kit-tickets/ Only $99 for both days P LUS, R EC E I V E A GI F T BAG F UL L OF TOP P R O D UC T S F R O M YOUR FAVOURI TE BRANDS
*Must be 19+ to attend
now trending
leader of the pack
It’s spring break, y’all! Wherever you’re headed, we have the season’s hottest getaway essentials to move from check-in to swim-up bar in style
art direction: sonya van heyningen
1
thekit.ca | spring 2017 |
see the maldives through citrus-tinted shades
The only thing more Insta-baity than the archipelago’s crystal clear waters? A pic of you wearing these technicolour sunnies in those crystal clear waters. We knew that plastic frames— with matching mid-century cellophane lenses—were headed on a one-way trip to necessary accessory territory when they hit the Gucci, Roberto Cavalli and Balenciaga shows. Consider them the poppiest way to throw shade this spring. —Jillian Vieira. Photography by Hamin Lee clockwise from left: chanel, $435, select chanel boutiques. Coach 1941, $290, similar styles available at coach.com. Cutler and Gross, $560, Cutler and Gross
compact
11
photography: hamin lee (beauty desk); peter stigter ( r u n way ) ; i s t o c k p h o t o ( t r i n i d a d) ; f l i c k r . c o m Da n i e l M e n n e r i c h ( m u m b a i ), R a d u M i c u ( p o s i ta n o)
2 p a i r m i a m i n i g h t s w i t h p o t e n t p a s t e l s
alexander wang
Add throwback Lite-Brite neons to South-Beach-worthy sorbet hues for a combo captivating enough to outshine any sunset.
from left: barbara bui bag, $1,905, barbarabui.com. marc jacobs pants, $1,950, marcjacobs.com. Sportmax shoes, $780, Max Mara, Bloor Street, Toronto. Diesel top, $198, Diesel Yorkville, toronto. Annelise Michelson bracelet, $179, annelisemichelson.com
3
4 beautify in palm springs
mix and match Arty Earrings in Belém, Portugal
+
=
j.w. anderson
When an ace styling trick meets Lisbon’s modern art museum hub, it’s total muse-in-the-making material.
The seriously fun treats beauty director Rani Sheen thinks you should kick it with poolside
marni
Lulu Frost, $297 for pair, lulufrost.com. Alynne Lavigne, $175 for pair, alynnelavigne.com
+
2 1
=
4
sportmax
SHOUROUK, $580 for pair, eshop.shourouk.com. Swarovski, $69 for pair, Swarovski
+
=
Rosantica, $225 for pair, intermixonline.com. Mizuki, $3,615 for pair, net-a-porter.com
12
3
Our super-talented associate art directors, Sonya van Heyningen and Kristy Wright constructed this adorable Palm Springs diorama.
5
now trending
l e t
a
s c e n t
5
t r a n s p o r t
yo u
Stuck at home? Stock up on these perfumes inspired by global destinations to add olfactory exoticism to your staycation
positano
trinidad
marfa
mumbai
tom ford sole di positano eau De parfum, $225 (50 mL), holt renfrew.com, available april
nicki minaj trini girl eau De parfum, $40 (50 mL), shoppers drug mart
m e m o p a r i s m a r fa e a u D e parfum, $378 (75 mL), saks fifth avenue
D. S . & d u rga r ad i o bo m bay eau De cologne, $199 (50 mL), oldfaithfulshop.com
To Tom Ford, this colourful, vertiginous strip of Italian coast smells like sun-splashed citrus and creamy flowers. Notes: Italian bergamot, mandarin, ylang ylang.
Force of nature Nicki Minaj is a Trini girl through and through—so much so that she featured its national flower in her new scent. Notes: chaconia blossoms, lychee, coconut.
The art-filled desert town of Marfa, Texas, inspired French fragrance house Memo Paris to make this dusty, warm concoction. Notes: tuberose absolute, agave accord, vanilla seed.
Brooklyn-based perfumers D.S. & Durga channel the heady smells of India's largest city—specifically the upscale Bandra neighbourhood. Notes: sandalwood, copper, coconut.
1. more is better You're on vacation: Bring a two-tone lipstick, just for fun. Lise Watier Bicolour Lipstick in Naked Glow and Blushing Glow, $25, lisewatier.com
2. Sun-seeking scent This sweet, spicy fragrance serves up ginger, orange blossom and jasmine with Chantilly cream on top.
7
J e an Pau l Gau ltier Classique Essence De Parfum, $138 (100 mL), Hudson’s Bay
8
3. Come correct This cushion compact houses two lightweight, blend-
6
able colour correctors: green to blur redness and yellow to ditch dark circles.
8. Lip luxury
Physician’s Formula mineral wear cushion corrector + primer duo in yellow/green, $20, drugstores
To m Fo r d Shad e & Illuminate Lips, $60, holtrenfrew.com
4. Bit of cheek
A new-school buffing brush will ensure yo ur fo un d atio n melts invisibly into your skin.
Bobbi Brown Cheek Glow Palette in Pink Opal and Homecoming Pink, $60, bobbibrowncosmetics.ca
G rey-toned pastel polishes bring subtlet y to yo ur spring mani.
5. Think pink Add a personalized flush to lips and che eks with this n e o n - t i n te d g e l th at re a c t s with your skin’s pH.
6. Brighten up Reveal brighte r skin with this toner packed with exfoliating glycolic a ci d , e n e rg izin g ginseng and soothing aloe vera.
11
Pixi Glow Tonic, $20, Shoppers Drug Mart
7. Stick it to ’em 12 9
9. Are you buff enough?
Use a creamy blush and highlighte r d u o to p r a c t i s e your blush draping (i.e., the new way to sculpt that’s soft and rosy, not harsh and stripey).
Guerlain Lipcheek universal tinted gel, $35, guerlain.ca
10
This glam lip palette brings the luxury to your statement lip.
Emin e ntly pa cka b l e , th e se cute sticks smooth over large pores on the T-zone or add a hit of dewy moisture on the cheeks.
Sappho Buffer Brush, $24, mysappho.ca
10. cool down
Essie Gel Couture polish in At The Barre a n d C lo s i n g N i g h t, $14, salons
11. Lacquer up A rainbow-bright liquid lip lacquer will score you a highshine shot of colour. Make Up For Ever Artist Acrylip in 201, $29, sephora.ca
12. Carry concealed This smorgasbord of concealers blends to achieve the perfect blemisho bscurin g sh a d e that you can adjust to your (very minimal, we’re sure) tan. Essence All I Need Concealer Palette, $7, Shoppers Drug Mart
The Face Shop Pore S m o o t h i n g M u lt i stick and Moistu re Cooling Multistick , $15, thefaceshop.ca
thekit.ca | spring 2017 |
compact
13
now trending
7 h i t t h e w a v e s i n N i c a r a g u a w i t h A s u r f e r - g i r l m o p
6
fill your toiletry bag with minis for an Arizona desert mini-break
Who says you have to downgrade your beauty reg when you’re carry-on only? These tiny-but-mighty goodies are as luxe as the tricked-out Airstream you rented.
clockwise from left: Rahua Voluminous Shampoo, $12 (60 mL), thedetoxmarket.ca. Tatcha Polished Classic Rice Enzyme Powder, $19 (10 g), Sephora.ca. Kiehl’s Turmeric and Cranberry Seed Energizing Radiance Mask, $20 (30 mL), Holt Renfrew. Diptyque Roses Scented Candle, $44, Nordstrom. KÉrastase Fluidissime Complete Anti-Frizz Care, $12 (45 mL), kerastase.ca. Aveda Dry Remedy Moisturizing Masque, $11 (25 mL), aveda.ca. Consonant The Perfect Sunscreen, $16 (15 ml), consonantskincare.com. Weleda Salt Toothpaste, $4 (10 ml), well.ca. La Mer Moisturizing Cream, $110 (15 mL, part of Mini Miracles duo), Nordstrom. Bumble and bumble Prêt-a-Powder, $16 (14 g), Sephora.ca
Beach waves are basically a California-girl cliché by now, but this season there’s a new take that’s at once messier and more deliberate. “It’s beach hair, but pushed a little further,” said actual hair god Guido Palau backstage at Alexander Wang, where he’d done 18 bleached and chopped model makeovers. “Hair clumps together when it’s been in the sun or the sea, so it’s got kind of a dry, chunky texture—we put in a lot of wave spray to achieve that. It’s based on surfers, skateboarders, girls who’ve been hanging out with their boyfriends in some beachy, sexy environment.” Even the gnarliest surfers would approve. Bumble and bumble Texture Hair (Un)Dressing Crème, $34, Sephora.ca. Moroccanoil Dry Texture Spray, $30, moroccanoil.com. Redken Fashion Waves 07, $23, salons
8
john galliano
giamba alexander mcqueen
Francesco Scognamiglio
Jason Wu
lanvin
christopher kane
Go nearly naked like the lingerie-clad ladies at Lanvin and traipse around the Calle Hortaleza. Bonus: You’re already outfitted for your afternoon siesta.
anna sui
Wear Underwear outside in madrid
clockwise from top: Fleur du Mal pants, $570, fleurdumal.com. Pamela Love necklace, $480, pamelalove.com. La Perla dress, $2,412, Avec Plaisir. Simone Pérèle bodysuit, $195, simone-perele. com. marc cain dress, $440, (416) 929-7272. Huit bra, $139 with set, huit.com. Mackage jacket, $980, mackage.com. Wilfred Free shorts, $75, Aritzia. Call It Spring shoes, $50, callitspring.com
14
compact
photography: hamin lee (minis); peter stigter (backstage beauty and runway except giamba, zero + maria cornejo); istockphoto (beach)
zero + maria cornejo, altuzarra, alexander wang
| spring 2017 | thekit.ca
CELEBRATING OUTSTANDING ACHIEVEMENT AND EMERGING TALENT IN CANADIAN FASHION
APRIL 7, 2017 FAIRMONT ROYAL YORK, TORONTO FOR TICKET/TABLE DETAILS, VISIT WWW.CAFAWARDS.CA #CAFA2017
LEAD SPONSOR
P R E S E N T I N G F R E S H FA C E AWA R D A N D O F F I C I A L A F T E R PA R T Y S P O N S O R
@CAFAWARDS
MEET YOUR NEW JEANS
T H E B AY.C O M / T O P S H O P
FROM AUTHENTIC STRAIGHT CUT JEANS TO THE LATEST FASHION STYLES, TOPSHOP HAS YOUR DENIM WARDROBE COVERED
JAMIE
JONI
MOM
CROP
LEIGH
HAYDEN
LUCAS
STRAIGHT
Iconic and perennially cool, jeans are arguably the most important staples in a woman’s wardrobe and the things that we wear the most, yet finding the perfect pair – or pairs – can be tough. With a broad range of fits, key fashion shapes and new season trends, Topshop jeans promise to inject individuality into your look. Meet skinnies made for 24/7 wear. The classic Joni makes for a great going-out option. With a high waist and skin-tight silhouette, legs immediately feel elongated, whilst the ankle-grazing Jamies are the original rock ’n’ roll mid-rise skinnies. Opt for these if you want to channel an effortless, model-off-duty look. Or discover Topshop’s most-loved mid-rise skinny jeans; the legacy of the Leigh is that of ultimate comfort and second-skin softness. Vintage-Lover? Then look to the high-waisted Mom jeans, now a permanent staple in the fashion girl’s denim wardrobe. Throwback to the ‘90s with the loosely tapered, ultra-low-rise Lucas, the slim boyfriend jean is perfect for androgynous, laidback dressing.
Looking for something more casual? Try Hayden, a low-rise boyfriend jean that is sure to become the cornerstone of your weekend wardrobe. Or embody cool Americana style and embrace the return of the authentic blue wash Straight jean. All about new trends? The biggest newcomer of the year is the Crop, a kick-flare style with a high waist. To get even more help on finding your perfect pair of jeans or discovering the latest styling tips, book a complimentary Personal Shopping appointment in store at these Hudson’s Bay locations: Montreal Downtown, Toronto Queen Street, Toronto Yorkdale and Vancouver Downtown. Shop Topshop denim now in store or online at thebay.com/topshop. Already found your perfect pair? For a chance to be featured on Topshop’s social channels, tag @TopshopCanada when posting your favourite Topshop denim look.
T H E B AY.C O M / T O P S H O P
the ankle-wrap flat There’s nothing prettier than big, beautiful bows in a bright hue. sam edelman shoes, $130, hudson’s bay. Winners skirt, $80, winners.ca
the rounded heel
Pair these go-go classics with sassy fishnets for a cool update. Hilfiger Collection shoes, $790, tommy.com. socks, stylist’s own.
walk this way
Here’s what you need to know about spring’s five essential shoes: Ladylike vibes are back, luxurious touches are key, and cool socks kick up almost all the season’s notice-me footwear Photography by Maya Fuhr | Fashion direction by Jillian Vieira Shot on location at the Fairmont Royal York in Toronto
18
fashion school
the fancy shower slide These wear-anywhere sandals pull double duty with a varsity sock.
vince camuto shoes, $100, vincecamuto.ca. Pink Tartan pants, $295, pinktartan.com. socks, stylist’s own
the lavish loafer
Amplify your workday slip-ons with details like laser cutting. via spiga shoes, $265, nordstrom. Winners socks, $6, winners.ca. Smythe pants, $395, shopsmythe.com
the kitten heel
Forget its rep: The teeny tiny heel is current, cute and comfortable. Tibi shoes, $495, tibi.com. Cos dress, $135, COS
19
girls just wanna have fun
If your only memory of the 1980s is of obsessively watching The Little Mermaid on repeat, here’s a quick primer: It was a glorious time for big hair, boom boxes and teen-movie gold. This season, designers are getting on board with throwback Lurex, puffed sleeves and epic ruching—and it’s a total eclipse of the heart s a y a n y t h i n g The boss leads in this decade’s seminal movies tackled everyday drama with epic eye rolls and pitch-perfect comebacks. Put these essential quotes to good use.
Your muse: Queen Claire in To your BFF’s attempt at beauty blogging: “You look a lot The Breakfast Club better without all that black shit under your eyes.” Your muse: Cold-blooded To your not-good-enough BF: “You know what I want, babe? Veronica from Heathers Cool guys like you out of my life.” Your muse: Sweet Baby To the sample-sale heels in your size: “I’m scared of what I saw, I’m scared of from Dirty Dancing what I did, of who I am, and most of all I’m scared of walking out of this room and never feeling the rest of my whole life the way I feel when I’m with you.”
Get Amped
We asked Toronto DJ and electronic artist Sophia Switzer (a.k.a. Internet Daughter) to create a totally ’80s playlist. Of course “Sweet Dreams” made the cut. “Move Your Body” by Marshall Jefferson “Clear” by Cybotron “Computer Love” by Kraftwerk “Blue Monday” by New Order “Sweet Dreams (Are Made of This)” by Eurythmics “Hashim” by Al-Naafiysh (The Soul) “Planet Rock” by Afrika Bambaataa “Body Rock” by Hot Streak “Jam on It” by Newcleus “Close” by Art of Noise “Relax” by Frankie Goes to Hollywood “O Superman” by Laurie Anderson
must-have
the boiler suit Rebecca Taylor jumpsuit, $645, rebeccataylor. com. Cheap Monday jacket, $140, Gravity Pope. Marion Vidal necklace, $590, marionvidal.com. Joseph Marc glasses, $95, clearly.ca. Vans shoes, $75, vans.com
m at e r i a l
g i r l
Totally righteous—and entirely updated—style essentials from the decade with a bad fashion rap
must-have
vinyl trousers Melanie Georgacopoulos earrings, $7,200, info@ melaniegeorgacopoulos.com. Solace London top, $495, solacelondon.com. Topshop pants, $120, Hudson’s Bay. Pierre Hardy shoes, $1,040, pierrehardy. com. Clyde bag, $240, clyde.world
must-have
lacoste
gathered lamé kenzo
20
photography: istockphoto (record); peter stigter (kenzo, marant, chloÉ, ferragamo); getty images (topshop)
trend watch
Zara bag, $139, zara. com. Christian Louboutin boots, $1,695, christianlouboutin. com. Cos jacket, $175, Cos. Wilfred Free shorts, $115, aritzia. com. Anne-Marie Chagnon earrings, $49, annemariechagnon.com
g u e s s w h at
After 35 years of devising super-sexy, nearly NSFW ads, earning the right to be called an Iconic American Brand and launching the careers of supers (hello, Gigi!), Guess is digging deep into its archive and resurrecting the fresh-faced Claudia-Schiffer-era pieces that now garner premiums in vintage stores. The 1981 Anniversary Capsule is bringing back all the acid-washed denim, logo tees and Flashdance-esque sweatshirts you’ve been dreaming of. Major model moment not included. guess top, $79, jeans, $138, bodysuit, $79, shop.guess.ca
back to the future
“That’s so fly!”
modern millennial anne t. donahue takes the season’s ’80s Revival For a spin
Diesel dress, $398, Diesel. hair and makeup: wendy rorong for plutino group/ Moroccanoil/nars
get that glamour shot, girl Photography by Shalan and Paul Fashion student and former Kit intern Sarah Said proves that when working an updated ’80s look, you have to go big or go home. Pair purple shadow with blue mascara and add a modern crimp to your hair for CyndiLauper-level volume.
tool kit
M.A.C Work It Out Extreme Dimension Lash in Well-Toned, $24, maccosmetics.ca. Mary Kay Eye Color Palette in Glistening Horizon, $26, marykay.com. infiniti pro by conair Secret Wave styler, $100, conaircanada.ca. Finesse Superior Hold Firm Hairspray, $4, Walmart
In 2001, I was obsessed with the ’80s. I saw the decade’s penchant for bright colours and bold shapes as the perfect way to command attention—especially since, at 15, I was too insecure to try to earn it on my own. Nothing screamed confidence like the majesty of shoulder pads and crimped hair, particularly when polo shirts and flared jeans were the norm at my suburban high school. But then I got older and realized I could actually earn attention for the things I said and did. By the time the Spring 2017 shows ushered in an ’80s revival at the hands of fashion’s heaviest hitters (fuchsia leggings at Balenciaga, Princess-Diana-esque blazers at Gucci and and tulle skirts at Dior among them), I wasn’t Baby in the corner anymore, and the idea of shimmery fabric and pastel eyeshadow felt like a tribute to my teen self, not to the grown-ass woman I am now. Still, I felt a twinge of allegiance to the decade that once granted me courage. So on a Friday afternoon, I poured myself into faux-leather leggings, a black oversized T-shirt and tried-and-true Doc Martens, channelling a mix between Bender from The Breakfast Club and Spike from Degrassi. (My take on Yves Saint Laurent’s spring homage to ’80s punk.) Then I crimped my hair, swiped on purple eyeshadow and waited to be called out. Because let’s not forget that where the ’70s and ’90s have come to be revered, the ’80s are mocked for ushering in a new order of vapidity and tackiness. Despite delivering
the Cure, Run DMC and Sonic Youth, the era is often presented as one long episode of Full House, scrunchies and all. So I figured I would turn heads as I roamed my southern Ontario suburb, reliving my youth. I hit up the the movie theatre arcade, pumped gas at the plaza where I used to hang out, wandered the mall. But, disappointingly, nothing happened. My Desperately Seeking Susan look hardly earned a second glance. The middle-aged food court cashier’s only interest was making sure I had a fork. Aside from a quick “I like your hair!” from the friend I met later for hole-in-the-wall sushi (which pals are required to do by law), no one seemed attuned to my tribute to the decade in which I was born. Which is actually the marker of a true comeback. Over the past few years, we’ve seen ’90s minidresses paired with ’70s sandals; ’60s cat-eyes working alongside noughties chokers. And now, ’80s excess is blending into the mix, just another tool to be used in our current pursuit of self-expression. That’s how I’m justifying my reembrace of the era. The best aspects of ’80s culture (think “Addicted to Love” and Salt-N-Pepa) may be a far cry from the prissy looks I applauded as a teen, but they are a testament to the underrated decade’s cultural richness. At least that’s what I’ll say when you ask me why I’m wearing a black Saint-Laurentinspired feathered jacket this spring.
hunks and their hair
When ’80s hair references like crimping, side swoops and mega volume stormed the spring runways, we decided to take a look at their original genus: the heartthrobs that defined the decade’s classic teen flicks. With a well-chosen product and a bit of an update, these borrowed-from-my-boyfriend looks are ripe for reappropriation
schwarzkopf professional osis+ big blast volumizing gel, $22, salons
thekit.ca | spring 2017 |
compact
+
=
sexy hair soy touchable hairspray, $21, CHATTERS.CA
The gelled comb-up
Part rebel, part prep: This requires confidence and a comb on hand at all times. Heartthrob Patrick Swayze owned this look in The Outsiders.
+ =
salvatore ferragamo
=
The feathered flick
Airy texture is key here: ’80s babes were no stranger to hairspray. James Spader’s icy blond rich-boy mane perfectly complemented Molly Ringwald’s strawberry crop in Pretty in Pink.
chloÉ
+
topshop unique
isabel marant
The side-swooped wave
Smooth on top, party on the sides: surprisingly flattering. Corey Feldman barely had his License to Drive but his perfectly coiffed hair was v. mature.
sebastian SUBLIMATE INVISIBLE FINISHING CRÈME, $19, SALONS
21
h ow i wa n der
Escape to Montego Bay with Jamaican model-to-watch Alexion McDonald as she shows off spring’s flashiest takes on tried-and-true classics Photography by Andrew Soule | Fashion direction by Jillian Vieira
Opposite page: Heavyweight denim adds toughness to cascading frills. b e a u f i l l e t o p, $ 8 9 5 , hudson’s bay
A s il k y s li p h e a d s i n a fresher direction with a spirited watercolour print. horses atelier dress , $610, 434 fifth shoes, $99, hudson’s bay
A voluminous topper is the perfect foil to shapely flares. b e a u f i l l e t o p, $710, pants, $845, 424 fifth shoes , $129, hudson’s bay
The white pant—a marker of the new spring season— feels relaxed in a slouchy trouser shape. diane von furstenberg bodysuit, $338, pants, $458, hudson’s bay
beauty note
Kick up your look with a chalky pastel lip and matching colour wash across your lids. NARS Velvet Matte Lip pencil in Roman Holiday, $33, narscosmetics.com
Opposite page: Crisp whites break free from the 9-to-5 with extra-long sleeves and knit detailing. opening ceremony dress, $565, b brian atwood shoes, $250, hudson’s bay
An asymmetrical spin—in juicy contrasting shades—turns expected stripes upside down. d i a n e vo n f u r s t e n b e r g dress, $338, hudson’s bay
hair an d makeu p: wen dy rorung for plutino group/ Moroccanoil/nars. model: alexion mcdonald for saint models. beauty direction: rani sheen. art direction: sonya van heyningen S h o t o n l o c at i o n i n Fa l m o u t h a n d M o n t eg o Bay, Jamaica. Thanks to the Jamaica Tourism Board and Melia Braco Village
commentary
boiling over
Every day, we are catcalled at the coffee molten lava is coursing through the culture’s veins when Sanrio, stand, told by guy friends that we’re wearing too the creator of kawaii incarnate much makeup, passed over for promotions at Hello Kitty, debuts a new charac- the office, and then we curl up to watch snivter who is a 25-year-old fury-filled elling Sansa Stark on Game of Thrones suffer a red panda named Aggretsuko— brutal rape to get some character development. and she immediately becomes The quiet buildup of daily aggressions stokes the everyone’s unofficial spirit animal. feminist fury inside, which eventually erupts, unleashing weeks of frustration during, say, a According to Liz Higgins, a Dallas-based therapist who works conference call with a chauvinist client or a night out with friends. exclusively with millennials, rage “I’ve definitely been at nice dinner parties is a legitimate issue among her where everyone’s talking, and then all of a sudfemale clients. Whether they’re den my voice is getting louder, and all the other dealing with skyrocketing tuition voices are getting quieter, and suddenly I’m that fees, mounting debt, a depressed person who’s ruined this fun time,” says Le. “And post-recession economy or an then someone—usually a really chill white man— MIA job market (according to a will come over and try to talk me down, and all 2016 survey, the U.S. added 2 milI can think is how privileged he is to be so chill lion jobs overall but employment Illustrations by Lauren Pirie among those aged 20 to 24 shrank about things.” I’d never thought of chillness as a privilege by 200,000), young women are before, but as soon as Le says it, I know she’s cracking under the pressure to It’s Friday afternoon and I’m working at a coffee excel in a broken system, while at the same time right. It means you have few cares and little work shop with a friend when a text pops up on my to do—which is why many young women have being bombarded with negativity. “There’s so phone. It’s from my sister—a link followed by a much toxic stuff that’s been written about them,” zero chill right now: We can’t afford to. single angry-face emoji. In January, Donald Trump, who rose to says Higgins. “That’s why I’m so passionate about The headline reads: “Toronto Restaurant power amid accusations of predatory behaviour standing up for this generation and helping my Changes Menu after Racism Controversy.” My clients see that they’re not narcissistic, they’re and sexual assault, was officially inaugurated WTF radar goes off immediately. One of my not entitled, they’re not losers, and they’re not an as the president of the United States. “It shows favourite Korean restaurants became the target embarrassment to the world.” (Yikes, no wonder that a lot of people are okay with having a man of international ire because the spiciness meter with those attitudes as their president. I felt millennials are pissed.) printed on its menu listed the least-fiery option “There are so many reasons for women to horrified,” says Indira Cesarine, the New-Yorkas “white.” Cue horrified pearl clutching and be angry today,” agrees Alexandra Rutherford, based director of the Untitled Space gallery and furious Reddit posting as thousands accuse the a feminist historian and psychology professor at curator of the Uprise/Angry Women art exhibiimmigrant owners of this mom-and-pop busiToronto’s York University. “We’re in a historical tion, which launched during inauguration week. ness of making threats against Caucasian idenmoment where there’s a lot expected of women. She put out a call for submissions the day after tity (one user wrote that “this restaurant and Young women have been told their entire lives, the election as a way for artists to channel the any other that choose to push [its] racist agenda rage she knew was out there. Exhibited works ‘You can have it all,’ but we haven’t actually need to be held accountable for their outdated, include Alyson Provax’s typographic piece I changed the structures to make that possible. bigoted views”). Never mind that it actually Thought It Would Be Different by Now; Mila Women are finding that they’ve been sold a bill had nothing to do with skin colour: In Korean, of goods that isn’t really panning out.” Rochenner’s plaster bust hammered with dozthe term refers to a pure white broth—subtle, Turns out it’s nearly impossible to have the ens of nails; and Ingrid V. Wells’s painting of a light and free of any whiff of chili. (I know this adult trifecta of success: a high-powered career, woman’s mouth open, mid-shout. “It was also because I can read Korean.) about challenging the ‘angry’ stereotype that’s a rock-solid marriage and 2.5 well-adjusted kids. I feel myself heating up to dangerously imposed on powerful, opinionated women,” she That’s especially true when daycare fees in spicy levels. There’s a ringing in my ears, and I says. “Men can be stern, serious, strong, and no Toronto have jumped by 15 per cent in two years, clench my fists, close my eyes and inhale slowly the pay gap in Canada is actually getting wider one will call them bitchy or nasty. I wanted to before slamming my open palms down on the (according to an Oxfam study, the imbalance expose that double standard and use it as tool reclaimed-wood table and whipping around to increased by 2 per cent between 2009 and 2011), for empowerment. The only way women will be face my friend. She looks up, startled, hands and last year, it came to light that a Canadian fedable to enact change is through anger. It can light suspended above her keyboard mid-sentence. eral court justice asked an alleged rape survivor the fires of progress.” > “I’m raging,” I say calmly before launching into why she didn’t “keep an expletive-laden diatribe about white fragility her knees together.” and the inherent power dynamics in racism. I “If you’re a young P U T Y O U R W A R P A IN T ON spend the next hour psychotically texting my fury woman in my age S i r J o h n — B e y o n c é ’ s m a k e u p a r t i s t a n d a L ’ O r é a l a m b a ss a d o r — to everyone I know, because almost everyone I b r a c k e t a n d y o u ’ r e on why sometimes your arsenal is in your purse know is like me: woke and teetering on the brink some-what aware about of righteous anger at all times. feminism and gender “I was on set with an assistant to a really big hairstylist. She is an amazing Emily McCombs, an editor at Huffington Post politics, you’re going to professional, and yet someone yelled at her. Everyone just cringed. We all knew and co-founder of xoJane.com, recently tweeted, get upset!” says Julianna he was in the wrong. She quietly went and got her purse. You would think she “My whole life is one big rage blackout now,” and Le, a 27-year-old Toronto was pulling out a gun, but she went to a mirror, and—I will never forget this as lately my inbox has been flooded with articles graphic designer and such as “Who Among Us Has Not Felt Like This self-declared angry long as I live—she pulled out a deep-wine lip colour. She started slowly putting it Smiling Volcano?” Meanwhile, my friend Nicole p e r s o n . “ T h e m o r e on. It was such a statement. I asked her, ‘What’s going on?’ She said, ‘I’m going blew up during a team meeting when her (male) aware you become, the to go talk to him and I want him to see every word that is coming out of my co-worker interrupted her, and Kate, a senior PR more you start to notice mouth.’ That was her war paint. She was arming herself to go tell that big, bad exec I know, told a client to “fuck off” during a instances of misogyny guy to go fuck himself.” conference call before hanging up. You know everywhere.”
Woke women are mad as hell: We’re screaming at colleagues and paying to smash plates. Nancy Won on why rage is our new default setting
thekit.ca | spring 2017 |
compact
29
These are powerful expressions of collective anger that we, in the West, mustn’t take for granted. Although our prime minister identifies as a feminist and has made strides toward gender parity in government,the harsh reality is that women are often still treated as disposable objects in a man’s world—and there are very real and terrifying consequences for these kinds of demonstrations abroad. In Morocco, rape victims can be charged with a crime for “letting themselves” be attacked; in India instances of so-called “honour killings” increased almost 800 per cent last year.
t h e
s t y l e
s e s s i o n s
Historically, Rutherford says, society has tried to control the way women express feelings of anger, rage and sadness. “It’s the trilogy of being mad, sad or bad,” she says. “If you express rage, you’re mad and you can be locked up. If you’re sad, you’re depressed and you can be put in a psychiatric institution. If you’re bad, you’re cast as a criminal and imprisoned.” The argument that women are “over-emotional” has been made countless times over the years in a base30
less attempt to prove we are incompetent, unfit to vote, unfit to work. Second-wave feminism in the 1970s worked to reclaim a woman’s right to be emotional without being pathologized for it, but we still have a long way to go before female anger is taken seriously in day-to-day settings: A 2015 study at Arizona State University showed that when men express anger, they gain influence, but when women express the same emotion, they’re seen as hysterical and easy to dismiss. To deal with her pent-up fury, Aggretsuko rages to death-metal karaoke. Le, on the other hand, tells me she’s looking into Muay Thai
:
d e n i m
h u l k s
o u t
classes so she can beat her aggro feels into submission. “Women aren’t encouraged to have any kind of physical release for their anger,” she says. “The stereotypical ways we’re supposed to selfcare usually go back to buying something for ourselves or sitting quietly and meditating. I think it’s important to give women the space to exercise their rage in a physical, almost animal way.” In the spirit of primal raging, I book an appointment at Battlesports’ rage room in
Toronto, which bills itself as “cost-effective anger management.” It’s a concept that has already popped up in cities around the world including London, Moscow and Tokyo. According to co-founder Stephen Shew, 70 per cent of the customers are women, although he says it’s often less about releasing anger and more about having a girls’ night out. When I arrive, I’m given coveralls, a face shield, gloves and a protective vest, then thrust into a chain-link and Plexiglas “cage” with two bats, a crowbar and a few plates, some Coca-Cola bottles, wine goblets and, for some reason, a bathroom scale. At the centre of the cage is a large “indestructible” cube of tightly bound burlap and tattered fabric, which I’m encouraged to abuse as I wish. The floor is a mess of cardboard, duct tape and shattered glass. The scene looks like an apocalyptic meeting of Fight Club and District 12. I pick up a heavy glass plate and hurl it at the wall only to have it bounce off and land, fully intact, on the floor. I glance at my slight-offrame, mild-mannered chaperone (yes, there’s a chaperone) and he gestures for me to try again. I pick up the plate, take a deep breath and think about all the things that made me mad that day: the pointless meeting I trekked across town to attend, the fact that old white men are still trying to control women’s bodies, oil pipelines, “grab her by the pussy,” white fragility and spiciness meters. This time the plate explodes, shattering into infinite pieces. It feels good. Smashing things is satisfying. But locking myself in a cage with a bat and a few pieces of 50-cent glassware from Value Village didn’t solve my rage issues. Because the anger we’re all feeling, the texts we’re sending and the dinner parties we’re ruining—they’re signs that it’s time to do something. Together. “What we’ve learned from history is that one person’s anger can and will be written off,” says Rutherford. “But when multiple women get together, it can’t be written off as unstable or over-sensitive or hysterical.” Female anger has always been a threat. It means we want things to change, and that’s terrifying to those in power. The Women’s March in January was a powerful example of what can happen when we funnel our rage into a positive global movement. The angriest women—forces of nature like Susan B. Anthony who helped secure the right to vote, Gloria Steinem who championed women’s liberation, Viola Desmond and Coretta Scott King who fought to advance civil rights—sparked revolutions. They didn’t just smash a glass and walk away. n
compact
Text: veronica saroli (denim)
commentary
| spring 2017 | thekit.ca
F R E S H N E S S T H AT WO R K S H A R D E R , B E C A U S E Y O U H AV E TO
© Procter & Gamble 2017
WO R K H A R D E R TO G E T A H E A D .
STRESS TESTED FOR WOMEN
words matter Doing nothing is easier, but taking action is important. Meet the inspiring, outspoken women who are brave enough to make their voices heard Photography by Luis Mora
32
Sophie Nation, co-creator of copingcontd.com
Britta B., spoken word artist and youth educator
Samra Habib, creator of photo project “Just Me and Allah”
“I was diagnosed with obsessive-compulsive disorder when I was 12. After years of therapy, I was stable for about six years. I decided to start weaning myself off my medication. Everything was okay for a bit, until I had a debilitating emotional breakdown. I couldn’t work or leave my house, but I could write and talk to my friends with mental illness about their experiences. Those are the things that helped me. I realized that there wasn’t a platform for young women to share online, so my friends and I launched our site in December. I want to reduce the stigma around mental illness. For so long, I felt like I couldn’t be honest about my story, so seeing the positive response has given me hope.”
“I grew up in a domestically abusive environment, around people who didn’t know how to express themselves. I always saw myself on stage, but didn’t know how I’d get there. I came across spoken word in university, and by 2013 I’d made a career out of it. I want my pieces to be empowering and positive. I work with school kids in Toronto to show them what a relief it can be to express yourself and to hold someone’s attention for two minutes without being interrupted. It’s the shy kids and the troublemakers who tend to surprise. Last week, two grade sixers got up in front of the seniors and shared their gentle souls. They weren’t trying to be braggadocious. They spoke about wanting to be sweet.”
“I was working at fashion magazines when I started sharing that I was queer; I felt like I needed to do more with my life. There’s been a lot written about the queer Muslim experience in academia, but it didn’t feel accessible or beautiful. I grew up on a diet of magazines and music videos, so I know the power of images. I started asking queer Muslims to pose for portraits and share their stories. The response was slow and skeptical at first. But momentum grew and the project created an organic community. Kids I photographed in Berlin or Montreal are reaching out and becoming friends. I didn’t have anyone to look up to as a kid, but if I had, maybe it would have been easier to come out.”
the handbook A REAL TRIP
Rani Sheen on the surprising joys of voluntourism We asked each activist to share the words that motivate her, then asked typography artist Donna Fung to create these handlettered tees.
hair and makeup: wendy rorong for plutino group/Moroccanoil/nars cosmetics. getty images (turlington). text: kathryn hudson. art direction: kristy wright
GET INVOLVED
“From a young age, I asked myself what I could do that was purposeful. My mom is from Central America, and I did charity work in postwar El Salvador in the early ’90s, so that was really the beginning. My career in fashion began during the time that AIDS became the problem that it was—a lot of people around me lost their lives. Then I started becoming really engaged in the topic of maternal health because I had a [life-threatening] complication delivering my daughter, who is 13 now. It’s hard to have the discipline to know where to begin when there is so much out there, but I don’t think you need to almost die or know someone who died to do something. You need to listen to yourself, to think about the things that move you and that worry you—and start there. Don’t feel like you can’t try, or speak up, or put yourself out there. It just takes a little bit of discipline and a wish to have the world be a better place.” —Christy Turlington, founder and CEO of Every Mother Counts and face of Calvin Klein Eternity Intense Calvin klein eternity intense eau de toilette, $85 (50 ml), hudson’s bay
Joanne Huy, project coordinator at Learning for a Sustainable Future
Kavita dogra, co-founder of We Talk Women and co-chair of Women’s March toronto
“The way we’re living right now is unsustainable—as a society, we’re not considering how we’re going to meet the needs of future generations, and that’s scary. After taking environmental studies at university, I now run youth forums, which bring together 200 middle school students from schools in communities like Fort McMurray that need sustainability education. Kids learn about water conservation or focus on First Nations issues and then come up with an idea to implement at their schools, like water bottle programs or donating used clothing to homeless shelters in the neighbourhood. Small actions can make a huge difference.”
“The new American leader has said things that are offensive to my identity as a feminist, a person of colour, a human rights advocate. There needed to be an organized resistance against the type of hate that was starting to be normalized. At the Women’s March, I thought I’d be nervous speaking in front of that many people, but because the vibe was so positive, I wasn’t. When 60,000 people chant with you, it’s electric. I could have been at home watching the news, stressed out and by myself, but instead I was surrounded by other people who believe. It was a hopeful moment that was an antidote to the hate.”
thekit.ca | spring 2017 |
compact
I’ve always had a healthy skepticism about voluntourism. Untrained Westerners descending on developing countries to “help” seems misguided at best, insulting at worst. And probably well-meaning but ultimately self-aggrandizing celebrities have intensified my qualms: Megan Markle released photos with crowds of Rwandan kids in a British Vogue story timed to the news of her romance with Prince Harry; Tom Hiddleston delivered a self-congratulatory Golden Globes speech about his time in Sudan. So when I set off on a trip to Kenya’s Maasai Mara area with aid organization We—which has brought necessities like schools, clean water and health clinics to remote communities—I wasn’t convinced my presence there would actually help anyone on the ground. By day two, I was struggling to plaster the wall of what would be a classroom, ineptly flicking a soupy mixture off a trowel as a crowd of actual builders and curious teens looked on. To my relief, in the hut-dotted hillside village of Irkaat, I did a slightly more effective job of filling the gaps between bricks of another classroom. Irkaat recently received a clean-water-sourcing borehole f unde d by B rita C anada —a gamechanger for the residents, who relied on polluted river water for drinking and bathing. The borehole virtually eliminated waterborne diseases like cholera and typhoid fever, and since hauling buckets of water from the river is traditionally a female task, now the girls can go to school, and the women can work at beading co-ops instead. After the build, I realized how photos like Markle’s come to be: Children swarmed me, and we smiled goofily at each other as we exchanged a blend of English, Swahili and the universally understood high-five. Next, I visited Kisaruni Girls High School, where three bright students led me around their campus proudly. We chatted about their favourite books and my job, offering each other a window into another way of From top: life. The last of my Spotting crocs cynicism fell away in Maasai Mara; as I hung out of an hanging at open-sided truck, Kisaruni Girls my h a i r m at te d High School. with red dust, waving wildly at a tiny girl who was sprinting to the curb to scream “Jambo!” (hello). S h e p ro b a b ly went to one of the schools I had been attempting to build classrooms for. Our shared joy at coming into each other’s orbit, just for a second, took my too-cool-tovoluntour breath away.
we offered each other a window into another way of life.
Just in time for World Water Day (March 22), every purchase of a Brita x Me to We on-the-go filter bottle ($20, major retailers) helps fund a borehole in Kenya that pulls clean water from below the earth and draws it to a tap where the community can collect it. Here, a family uses four buckets a day; in Canada, each of us pours through 17. 33
last word
the great escape
How to be a winner:
This season is full of fresh trends and tacky traps. Find your way through the maze with help from our fave famous labyrinth experts
gucci
gucci
By Veronica Saroli
All of the contouring
Buzzkill festival fashion
“Put the makeup brushes and palettes down.” —The Man in Black from Westworld
“This must be stopped! No more fringe, no more crop tops.” — Jareth of Labyrinth
right way! Magpie obsession These days, one never knows how long a designer will stay at a brand (cough—Givenchy, Dior, Balenciaga), so scoop up all the Alessandro-Michele-era Gucci as quickly as physically possible.
Ubiquitous chokers “When they started selling these for men, it was done. Also, redrum.” —Jack of The Shining
start
Gucci shoes, $900, Holt Renfrew
“Guys, Audrey Hepburn never said any of that basic #wednesdaywisdom bollocks you’ve pegged to her.” —Harry Potter
MAKE UP FOR EVER GLITTER, $25, MAKEUPFOREVER.COM
right way! essential stripes Because Jean Seberg forever. Club Monaco top, $170, clubmonaco.ca
Lacoste
Insta misquotes
Banana Republic
There are as many cool possibilities for glitter as there are The Young Pope memes. Try sprinkling some under eyes, on lips and nails and in place of highlighter.
Proenza Schouler
janelle monÁe
fendi
dkny
right way! Glitter 2.0
Ratty Ugg Boots
MAISON MARGIELA HAUTE COUTURE
Sheet masking isn’t just for your face—lips deserve some plumping hyaluronic acid, too.
jessica alba
Khaki might be described as a “dull brownish colour” in the dictionary, but this season, it’s more like that killer red lipstick that goes with everything.
right way! Lip loving
emma stone
right way! Getting dusty
Carolina Hererra
“Ugg. That is all.” —Pac-Man
RODIAL DRAGON’S BLOOD LIP MASKS, $45, MURALE
J.Crew skirt, $1,234, jcrew.com
photography: istock photo (glitter); peter stigter (street style, hererra, dkny, fendi, schouler, lacoste, gucci); getty images (monÁe, margiela, banana republic); instagram (@jessicaalba, @rachel_goodwin [stone])
1. Don’t be distracted by silly fads—they will get you nowhere. 2. Stick with classic pieces and cool approaches to beauty.
finish 34
compact
| spring 2017 | thekit.ca
MEET YOUR quick cleaning bounce boosting easy-blending style extending totally-to-die-for natural dry styling
NATURAL DRY STYLING HAIR COLLECTION Only at
@CAKEBEAUTY #CAKEMYDAY CAKEBEAUTY.COM
DISCOVER THE GENIUS OF LIQUID CARE
©2017 L’Oréal Canada
[ OUR 1ST ALOE WATER MOISTURIZER FOR FRESH GLOWING SKIN AND 72H OF HYDRATION. ]
Xiao Wen Ju
NEW
HYDRA GENIUS
TM
LIQUID CARE TECHNOLOGY CLINICAL RESULT FORMULAS HOW IT WORKS
QUENCHING ALOE WATER AND 3 HYALURONIC ACIDS 72 HOURS OF INTENSE AND CONTINUOUS HYDRATION ONE FOR EACH SKIN TYPE: OILY, DRY AND EXTRA-DRY LIGHTWEIGHT LIQUID MOISTURIZER, PENETRATES INSTANTLY
3,600 SCIENTISTS, 6 RESEARCH CENTRES WORLDWIDE. DEDICATED TO BEAUTIFUL SKIN AT EVERY AGE. BECAUSE WE’RE ALL WORTH IT.
hydragenius.lorealparis.ca
[ ALOE WATER ]