The Kit Compact October 2016 - Calgary

OCTOBER 2016 | CALGARY

POWER BEAUTY Lessons in fearlessness from badass Canadian women + Calgary street style, shockingly good coats, boots that can handle anything

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IN THIS ISSUE

BE BRAVE BE REAL BE YOURSELF BE STRONG BE NIMBLE

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Laura deCarufel @LauradeCarufel

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Jessica Hotson @jesshotson EXECUTIVE EDITOR

Kathryn Hudson @hudsonkat BEAUTY EDITOR

Rani Sheen @ranisheen

FASHION EDITOR

Jillian Vieira @JillianVieira

MANAGING EDITOR

Eden Boileau @lilyedenface

ASSOCIATE BEAUTY EDITOR

Natasha Bruno @Natashajbruno

ASSISTANT DIGITAL EDITOR

Carly Ostroff @carlyostroff

ASSISTANT EDITOR

Veronica Saroli @vsaroli

ASSISTANT ART DIRECTORS

PHOTOGRAPHY: CARYLE ROUTH (DECARUFEL); HAIR AND MAKEUP: SHERI STROH FOR PLUTINO GROUP/GREENBEAUTY.CA (DECARUFEL)

Sonya van Heyningen @svanh7 Kristy Wright @creativewithak DESIGNER

Amber Hickson @amblynncreative

PUBLISHER

Giorgina Bigioni ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

Tami Coughlan

PROJECT DIRECTOR, DIGITAL MEDIA

Kelly Matthews

MARKETING MANAGER

Evie Begy eb@thekit.ca CONTRIBUTORS

Christina Bianchi, Big Sis, Ania Boniecka, Kate Carraway, Leeandra Cianci, Shalan and Paul Crivellari, Jessi Cruickshank, Julie Cusson, Allana Davison, Danielle Groen, David Hatch, Hamin Lee, Léonie Lévesque, Luis Mora, Melanie Morais, Rita Remark, Wendy Rorong, Mari Santos, Christopher Wahl, Jenna Marie Wakani, Romy Zack INTERNS

Vera Ahmed, Sarah Cho, Marcia Lopes, Abigail Schwengler, Rida Talpur The Kit is Canada’s 360˚ beauty and style leader © 2016, The Kit, a division of Toronto Star Newspapers Limited.

ACTING PUBLISHER, TORONTO STAR, AND ACTING PRESIDENT, STAR MEDIA GROUP

David Holland

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, TORONTO STAR

Michael Cooke

THEKIT.CA | OCTOBER 2016 |

BE QUICK

BE EVERYWHERE

B E ( YO N C É )

BE COOL

B E

S T R O N G

BE SMART

EDITOR’S LETTER

S

uddenly, women are in fashion.

The U.S. is about to elect its first female president (right??); complicated issues like consent are at the forefront of the cultural conversation; and Rihanna (that is all.) All this talk of power is intoxicating, but it can be overwhelming, too—especially when society’s Kanye all-caps LET’S DO THIS message runs up against the realities of life and societal inequality. Of course women are tough, strong, amazing, but we’re human, too: Sometimes we want to step out from the march of progress, lie on the couch and watch Gossip Girl.

As the poet said, we contain multitudes.

In this issue, we explore power in its many fraught and exciting dimensions. Our “Be Powerful” package (page 25) spotlights power hair and power dressing—as well as 10 women who share how they learned to wield their strength, whether in the boardroom or the bedroom (bonus: ballerinas in

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hoodies!). In “Deep Impact” (page 18), six Canadian women showcase the boss possibilities of black makeup, while “Rock On” (page 13) celebrates the force of nature that is the crystalinspired manicure.

Ultimately, this issue is a tribute to the power of women. Because we’re not a trend. And we’re not going anywhere. Sure, there’s still so much to be done, but together, we can do anything.

I’d love to hear what you think. Connect with me @LauradeCarufel with #thekitcompact.

LAURA DE CARUFEL, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF @thekitca

@thekit

thekitca

thekitca

ON THE COVER MADISON VAN RIJN, 26

Artist, @mvralldayeveryday On her blackened brows: “They make me feel very fierce and serious, which is a good contrast to my generally lighthearted personality.”

On the power of creativity: “To me, power means vulnerability, honesty and a willingness to learn. I feel most powerful when I am creating art. That’s when I am in my rawest state of mind. Being able to produce a physical object—a mural, an illustration or a poem—out of emotion is an invaluable feeling of strength.”

PHOTOGRAPHY: LUIS MORA. MAKEUP: JULIE CUSSON FOR CHANEL. MAKEUP ASSISTANT: LEONIE LÉVESQUE. HAIR: WENDY RORONG FOR PLUTINO GROUP/ MOROCCANOIL. LACOSTE JACKET, PRICE UPON REQUEST, LACOSTE.COM

contents 4/ OUT & ABOUT

What’s new and cool in Calgary this month.

5/ COOL GIRL, COOL STYLE

Meet Melanie Morais, one of Calgary’s brightest style stars.

7/ LOOKBOOK

Ultimate slip-dress layering, perfect pink coats and sweet hair looks.

13/ TRY THIS

Unleash the power of crystal-inspired nails.

16/ STREET STYLE

The hottest fall looks from outside the shows— and how to wear them.

18/ BEAUTY

The coolest women face the limitless possibilities of jet-black makeup.

25/ THE HANDBOOK From ballerinas to comedians, we asked the raddest Canadian women how they learned to be so brave.

34/ LAST WORD Take a cash course in f*ck you money.

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OUT & ABOUT

#YYC INDEX

Calgary’s October style and culture hit list INSTA ESSAY A DREAM DATE WITH CALGARY It girl Ania Boniecka breaks down her perfect day in the city

THE LIST

FALL SHOPPING

We asked three stylish Calgarians to share their top splurges

ALLANA DAVISON

start

Everything at the brand new Royale Brasserie Française (730 17 Ave. S.W.) begs to be snapped.

It’s already my new favourite brunch spot.

Spending time on planes can be really damaging to our skin. Before and after a trip, I always pay a visit to XO Treatment Room (1306 1 St. S.W.)

Bamboo Ballroom is one of my favourite YYC boutiques—it never disappoints. Check out the newest location (100 Anderson Rd. S.E.).

@allanaramaa

“Fall is my favourite time of year because I can crack out my drapey cozy sweaters and wear them every day. This turtleneck poncho will make a wonderful addition to my fall wardrobe. Bonus: It’s a beautiful pop of colour!”

end

MANGO SWEATER, $80, MANGO.COM

MELANIE MORAIS

@bornlippystyle

ALDO BOOTS, $150, ALDO.COM

A Ted Baker store just opened at Chinook Centre (6455 Macleod Trail S.W.) and immediately joined my #ootd rotation.

t h e

I mean, YYC has the best skyline in the country.

Am I right, or am I right?

a d d r e s s

e s p y, 1 0 0 9 9 a v e . s . e .

We sat down with Megan Szanik, who opened this cool boutique in 2009, to talk about her fashion inspo and the best Canadian brands to buy.

ANIA B.

@aniab

“A true straight-leg jean is nearly impossible to find, but H&M b ro k e th os e odds and engineered the perfect fall jean. It hits right above the ankle, looks great with everything, and even though it’s light wash, it’s actually super flattering, which, in my books, is reason enough to get two pairs.”

H&M JEANS, $70, H&M

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What inspired you to open Espy? “I had been in the fashion industry for more than 15 years and wanted to use my contacts to create a new fashion experience for Calgary. It started as designer discount and then quickly began to take shape as what it is today: affordable designer fashions, staffed by professional fashion stylists, with 50 per cent Canadian-designed goods.”

What makes Espy unique? “We carry more than 150 styles of jeans for men and women—and we work with your body, not against it. Everyone is beautiful whether they are a size 2 or 16. It’s up to our stylists to help show each client the very best version of themselves. We take great pride in being able to fit all different body types and work with both men and women and make their shopping experience fun.”

If you’re in need of some major floral inspo, pay a visit to hidden gem Blue Hydrangea Floral Boutique (3A-2501 Alyth Rd. S.E.). Obsessed!

What products are you most excited about? “We are all about products that make people feel good. For ladies, we’re so excited about the Parker Smith bombshell highrise skinny jean. We are also in love with two Montreal designers: Marigold and Bodybag dresses (perfect fits, knee length and with pockets in everything!); and Canadian favourite Iris Setlakwe, who has the most delicious soft light blue blazers and outerwear. They are the perfect addition to a professional wardrobe of grey, navy and black.”

CONNECT WITH US

What are you picking up this s e a s o n? “ C a n a dian brand Press has the best buttery French terry.

You can’t help hug yourself in these awesome fabrics.”

GET THE BEST OF CALGARY IN YOUR INBOX. VISIT THEKIT.CA/ SIGN-UP

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PHOTOGRAPHY: PETER STIGTER (STREET STYLE BOOTS)

“Now that the fall season is upon us, a great pair of tan boots is essential. These boots are the perfect height, and the different tones add some interest.”

| OCTOBER 2016 | THEKIT.CA

COOL GIRL, COOL STYLE

BLACK BOOK

Style star Melanie Morais shares her Calgary hot spots Photography by David Hatch

NEIGHBOURHOOD WATCH Can’t-miss boutique “I love all the unique pieces you can find at Purr (601 17 Ave. S.W.). My favourite is the jewellery!”

Go-to nail bar “I love Victoria Nails in Kensington (305 10 St. N.W.). You’ll always see me there on a day off.”

Best ice cream “I’m completely obsessed with toasted coconut at Village Ice Cream (431 10 Ave. S.E.). It’s to die for!”

Essential resto meal “Nothing beats the Spanish tapas at Ox and Angela (528 17 Ave. S.W.). The paella and the croquettas are mouth-watering.”

Trusted hair salon “I see the ultimate queen of hair: Farhana at Hedkandi Salon at Hotel Arts (146 13 Ave. S.W.). She is literally the best in the city. Plus, she has a killer Instagram: @xo.farhana.balayage.”

Ultimate guilty pleasure “Crave Cupcakes (1107 Kensington Rd. N.W.) always has my back when I’m craving something sweet (which is all the time). Red velvet are my fave!”

Fave cocktail “I’m half Mexican, so naturally, margaritas (shaken, not frozen) are my favourite. I love the ones at Native Tongues (235 12 Ave. S.W.). Plus, the location is totally Instagram-worthy.”

Melanie Morais (@bornlippystyle), snapped in the Eau Claire neighbourhood.

Record store to keep on repeat “I love Blackbyrd Myoozik (1126 17 Ave. S.W.), which is below Gravitypope. The staff is passionate about music and has everything you’re looking for.”

H&M JACKET, DRESS, BAG, SHOES, H&M

THEKIT.CA | OCTOBER 2016 |

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intensely hair Pantene Expert Collection Get ready for our most intense PRO-V Formula ever.

Because stronger is even more beautiful. Š2016 P&G

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LOOKBOOK

NOW TRENDING

ART DIRECTION: KRISTY WRIGHT

Your October shopping list: rosy coats, hot buns, a boot made for taking names

NORTHBOUND AND DOWN Ahh, winter in the city: biting temps and slush-puddle jumping. One too many polar vortexes have taught us that anything less than legit mountain boots just won’t cut it (RIP, last year’s Gucci fur loafers). Luckily, we saw models traverse this season’s runways in Canadian-climate-appropriate options: snow-white, top-stitched constructions at Rag & Bone; bold buckles and serious hardware at Prada; and a military-grade-meets-Gothic style at Valentino. It’s the fashion set’s not-so-subtle nudge, saying, “Put down the red wine and get outside.”

—Jillian Vieira. Photography by Hamin Lee

THEKIT.CA | OCTOBER 2016 |

STUART WEITZMAN BOOTS, $785, STUARTWEITZMAN.CA

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COAT REPORT PEACHY KEEN, JELLY BEAN One can only assume that the flush of rose-coloured outerwear on the runways is a nod to the OG Pink Ladies of Grease. Sport one of these boss coats—including some ace homegrown picks—and get ready to rule the school—Illustrations by LeeAndra Cianci

Sandy wasn’t a legit Pink Lady until she proved that she, like a cape, was layered.

SENTALER, $850, SENTALER.COM. TED BAKER, $395, TEDBAKER.COM

THE AMATEUR NOSE A fruit farmer sniff-tests a wildberry fragrance THE NOSE

Laura Sabourin, owner of Feast of Fields Organic Vineyard, Niagara, Ont.

LINE, $800, HOLT RENFREW. MACKAGE, $790, MACKAGE.COM

These faux minks are as warm and fuzzy as Frenchy’s personality.

THE SCENT

Luna by Nina Ricci, $72 (50 mL), thebay.com

HILARY MACMILLAN, $245, HILARYMACMILLAN.COM. J. CREW, $475, JCREW.COM

THE NOTES

Orange blossom, wild berries, white everlasting flower, caramel, vanilla THE VERDICT

Would boss bitch Rizzo kill for a banging blush biker? Would you?

IRO, $4,080, FARFETCH.COM. GUESS, $548, GUESS.CA

Fun and full of spirit, these floral gems are, like, so Jan. KATE SPADE NEW YORK, $788, KATESPADE.COM. ELLIE MAE, $695, ELLIEMAESTUDIOS.COM

NOW NING TROL E P P H A S T C O N mas ho PE ed T r

warm Alexande lies s r y of craw over and y p a flur est Cree , Underc ning B . w s a it p ie Ta ,s or ce s s ue en bite!

McQ ecked ac ey don’t 0 0, 3 fl h t , t , H c A C $ is inse part RTON WAOTM . SELSIM ELI-

.C 9 8 0, U IA B HR REW $ O LIV LTR EN F A S S ES , IFE R B EO M .

H O U N G L . J E N N EH R .C E S E .CO M IFER B , N E T-AU IQ O P T O PTIQ U 5 , J EN N , $ 1, 970 E T TR EZ M A AT, $9 8 S H O ES A D E L RO NTO H ZU R A , TO E LFIN IVES AZ M. D AQ U TER .CO 0, A RC H P O R G , $9,74 R IN

“It has more of a floral tone than a fruit tone, and it’s very overripe. When fruit is overripe it releases ethanol—that’s alcohol, which is in all perfume.

Wild berries have a really strong smell; they’re more concentrated than a cultivated berry.

A black raspberry or a wild black raspberry is tiny, and the taste you get is a hit in the mouth compared to a commercially grown raspberry.”

PHOTOGRAPHY: HAMIN LEE (BEAUTY DESK); PETER STIGTER (RUNWAY); ISTOCK (WEB). ART DIRECTION: SONYA VAN HEYNINGEN (BEAUTY DESK)

Marty is trying to be the ultimate teen sophisticate.

Aspire with her.

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2

LOOKBOOK

BEAUTY DESK

F A L L’ S T O P C R O P , A S P I C K E D B Y B E A U T Y E D I T O R R A N I S H E E N

M I U M I U B U B B L E B AT H , $ 5 2 , SEPHORA.CA

2. GILD THE LILY Supremely portable highlighting sticks in champagne for pinktoned skin or bronze for warm complexions—try them on lids too.

COVER FX CLICK STICK ENHANCE CLICK IN BLOSSOM AND GILDED, $24 EACH, COVERFX.CA

3. PASS THE BAR Once you get past the ridic cats on the wrapper, you find a non-drying cleansing bar of French pink clay, rose petals and lavender oil.

MEOW MEOW TWEET PINK ROSE CLAY BAR SOAP, $ 14, MEOWMEOWTWEET.COM

4. IT’S A WASH This shampoo is 99 per cent biodegradable and 70 per cent natural, with 0 per cent sulphates. The bottle and juicy scent 100 per cent remind me of a smoothie.

MATRIX BIOLAGE R.A.W RECOVER SHAMPOO IN YUCCA + GOJI BERRY, $25, MATRIXPROFESSIONAL.CA

5. PEARL GANG Play mad facialist with this serummask hybrid. Scoop some apricot oil and hyaluronic acid pearls into the cotton pouch and mash against your face for silky soft skin.

PHILOSOPHY ULTIMATE MIRACLE WORKER SERUM-IN-PEARL MASK, $89, HUDSON’S BAY

6. WINK-WINK Whether you’re feeling full Instagram glam or no-makeup makeup, adjust your lash look by turning the dial to deliver more or less mascara.

CLINIQUE LASH POWER FLUTTER-TO-FULL MASCARA, $28, CLINIQUE.CA

7. NEW FILTER Like Valencia or Crema, this “filter” is meant to go on top of any perfume and blur it, soften it, boost its cottony and musky aspects. By itself it smells like fresh laundry.

GIAMBA

1. BUBBLE BAE Get on my top shelf now, divinely vintagey bottle of peppery floralscented bath foam!

FASHION MATH PUNK PRINCESS REDUX

MAISON MARGIELA REPLICA FILTER BLUR, $80 (50 ML), SEPHORA

Embrace those emo bangs once more for the cost of one autographed 30 Seconds to Mars poster

8. LIP LOCK I love this wee cardboard pot of tinted gloss that smells minty and moisturizes with coconut, avocado and olive oils.

ROCKY MOUNTAIN SOAP CO LIP QUENCH IN HIBISCUS PINK, $14, ROCKYMOUNTAINSOAP.COM

9. MIST OPPORTUNITY A mist a day keeps the dermatologist away, when it’s packed with repairing vitamin C and collagen amino acids and slips though makeup via micellar technology.

DR DENNIS GROSS PERFECT SKIN SET AND REFRESH MIST, $38, SEPHORA.CA

10. BRUSH-OFF This flat-topped synthetic brush buffs in cream or powder blushes and bronzers and lets you be precise about where your glow goes.

EXPRESS TOP, EXPRESS.COM

WET N WILD SMALL STIPPLE BRUSH, $3, WETNWILDBEAUTY.COM

6 7

9

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TOPSHOP TOP, THEBAY.COM

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10 FOREVER 21 SKIRT, FOREVER21.COM

8 5

DR. MARTENS BOOTS, DRMARTENS.COM

THEKIT.CA | OCTOBER 2016 |

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F R O M L EF T: G U CC I , A N YA H I N D M A R C H , F EN D I , MONCLER, BALENCIAGA, VALENTINO

DIY DEPARTMENT: THOSE SICK GUITAR STR AP BAGS

All the best designers (we’re looking at you, Valentino and Fendi) are offering their take on the embellished guitar strap bag this season. Since we’re saving up for Hole reunion tour tickets (please, God), we asked DIY expert Mari Santos to come up with a grunge-glam alternative on the cheap.

YOU’LL NEED

A bag with removable straps, a hot-glue gun, two key rings, a seam ripper, a guitar strap, pliers (optional), embellishments (sequins, appliqués and studs).

AR OOTWE FALL F ITH THE WAYS : W E N E R O I H T , T EC YOUR T COLL TRENDS H E T H E R R R DAY THREE UR BOO LES, W OUT YO FUKU E OP STY C O M T ROUND O S M U ’S M Y OR SEASON EN-ONL HI KE R IS RAM TH E SLEE K N BUDGET CO ND -S KI ES KI N BOOT

IE

Remove the strap from the bag.

See? This is easy.

STEP 2

Using a seam ripper, carefully undo the stitches that attach the bag’s original strap to the hardware. Put the hardware aside.

“IN HIGH SCHOOL, ONE OF US WOULD GET A GOOD PERFUME AND AT EVERY HOUSE PARTY, WE’D ALL SHARE IT.”

TH E SE KN EE OVER -TH E-

CALVIN KLEIN DEEP EUPHORIA EAU DE PARFUM, $92 (50 ML), SHOPPERS DRUG MART

IN G BI LL ISN

’T GE TTIN

G PAID

TH E SNAK

STEP 1

GO AH EAD,

GE T TWO!

TH E HE AT

YO, MARGOT ROBBIE WE ASKED THE ACTOR—AND AMBASSADOR F O R C A LV I N K L E I N ’ S N E W S C E N T— A B O U T W H AT B E AU T Y M E A N S TO H E R

$1, 575, E BI RMAN , ALEX AN DR RO M. SH ELLYS NO RDST 46 , NA ST YGAL . $2 25 , LO NDON , $2 ED ELMAN, CO M. SAM ON ’S BAY HU DS

CITY DWEL

ZANOTTI, GI US EPPE PE ZA NOTEP EST, $2 ,29 0, GI US OM . NI NE W N.C IG ES TID WEST.C A. $260, NI NERI NG , $11 0, SP CALL IT IN G.COM CA LLITS PR

BU I, $1,028, BARBAR A .CO M. SO RE L, UI BA RBAR ABLFOOTWEA R.C A. RE SO , $3 00 00, CO UGAR , $2S.COM OT CO UGAR BO VE NATU RE LO

“Beauty is an intangible thing.

You might meet someone who wouldn’t stop you in your tracks, b ut as yo u ta lk to th e m , yo u become more enamoured. I think it comes down to having a vivacious spirit and a strong sense of self. I also love people who laugh easily, like my friends who piss themselves laughing and don’t mind having an ugly face when they do it. I love women who are good to other women.

There’s nothing uglier to me than a woman who puts down another.

R

LE R

ARE WE JUST HUNGRY OR IS THIS A TREND? We couldn’t help noticing that many of fall’s best runway hair looks seemed to be inspired by baked goods. Behold, the season’s pastry counter

Neat double buns at Dior recalled warm dinner rolls just waiting for butter and jam.

Guido Palau used Redken Wax Blast spray for egg-glaze-like shine.

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I want to play strong women, but strong women aren’t per fect.

People sometimes think, ‘We’ve got this strong female role, she owns a business and has a perfect family,’ and to me, that’s not real. A strong woman has flaws, and that’s what makes her interesting. The roles I play have to have a strong point of view. If they don’t, you’re just floating around a scene as decoration. If your opinion alters the course of another character’s journey, though, you’re integral to the script.” —As told to Jillian Vieira

It was a veritable continental breakfast at Gareth Pugh, where Malcolm Edwards coiled two high ponies around cylindrical objects and set them with L’Oréal Paris hairspray.

Ropy and twisted like a pillowy challah, the chignons at Sportmax

by Anthony Turner are especially suitable for a special celebration.

Freshly baked brioches—we mean, jaunty topknots—were the order of the day at Sacai.

Palau was up to his tasty tricks again, using Redken Wind Blown Dry Finishing Spray on the flaky pastry-esque ends.

The glossy, loose coils at Tory Burch would be right at home at Cinnabon.

Palau must have been feeling peckish this fashion month.

LOOKBOOK

STEP 3

With pliers (or without, if you’re feeling particularly dexterous), attach a key ring to each end of the guitar strap.

STEP 4

STEP 5

Add the hardware you removed from the bag’s original strap onto the key rings.

STEP 6

Glue your patches, sequins and studs onto the guitar strap using the hot-glue gun.

Attach the guitar strap to the bag and you’re good to go!

TA-DA

If anyone asks where it’s from, tell them you made it. Hint: Practise your modest face.

Watch it step by step at thekit.ca/DIY

OFFICIALLY EVERYWHERE

SWEATERS + SLIPS

COUNTRY FOLK

VA LENTIN O

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: AMERICAN EAGLE OUTFITTERS TOP, $80, AE.COM. TIBI DRESS, $815, TIBI.COM. ALEX AND ANI BRACELET, $30, ALEXANDANI.COM. SUPERGA SHOES, $130, SUPERGA-USA.COM. EXPRESS TOP, $30, EXPRESS.COM. ROOTS BAG, $420, ROOTS.COM. TANYA TAYLOR DRESS, $1,074, SAKS CANADA. GIGI BURRIS HAT, $530, ARCHIVES, TORONTO. JOIE TOP, $350, JOIE.COM. RAQUEL ALLEGRA DRESS, $1,125, MATCHESFASHION.COM

RR A

You’re all about the simple life (no, not the Paris Hilton version). Leather details and low-key kicks round out your down-home vibe.

A LT UZ A

PHOTOGRAPHY: MARI SANTOS (DIY); PETER STIGTER (RUNWAY); ISTOCKPHOTO (MARBLE, PLATES, PAPER, BAKED GOODS)

Even as the frost sets in, you can’t pry the slip dress out of our (extra-cold) hands. Layered up with slim sweaters, we’re clinging to summer just a little longer

PARTY PEOPLE Well-known fact: Your favourite colour is sparkle.

Make it a fullfledged affair with sporty sock boots and graphic extras.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: DYNAMITE TOP, $35, DYNAMITECLOTHING.CA. HOUSE OF HOLLAND DRESS, $1,540, HOUSEOFHOLLAND.CO.UK. THOMAS SABO RING, $65, THOMASSABO.COM. M.I.H. JEANS TOP, $455, MIH-JEANS.COM. VERSACE SHOES, $1,830, US.VERSACE.COM. DIESEL DRESS, $275, DIESEL. WARBY PARKER GLASSES, $225, CA.WARBYPARKER.COM. BAGGU CLUTCH, $16, BAGGU. COM. UNIQLO TOP, $150, UNIQLO. ZARA DRESS, $70, ZARA.COM

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TRY THIS

ROCK ON

Out -of are p -this-wo owe rld c r ring nail ystals a art’s nd st next ones wav Pho By R e t M ogra ani S p cur hy by heen es b y R Hamin ita Rem Lee ark

STYLING BY JILLIAN VIEIRA. CREATIVE DIRECTION BY JESSICA HOTSON

ani

THEKIT.CA | OCTOBER 2016 |

THE LOOK AGATE. PROMOTE S HEALING, CONFIDENCE, COURAGE DIY INTEL 1. Paint grey base, such as Essie Chinchilly. 2. Dab black blob near edge of each nail.

3. Trace outline of each blob with thin off-white and pale blue lines.

4. Follow with thick wavy white line, thin navy, thick off-white, and thin pale blue lines. 5. Dab gold glitter polish over black.

6. Cover with matte topcoat; sprinkle white sugar on top of white polish.

J E N N Y B I R D B R AC E L E T, $ 7 5 , JENNY-BIRD.CA

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T H E LO O K A N GE L AU R A Q UA RT Z , PROMOTES ENERGY, BALANCE, WISDOM

DIY INTEL 1. Paint clear base. 2. Add one coat sheer pink. 3. While it’s tacky, use tweezers to press on tiny triangles of iridescent gift wrap. 4. Repeat steps 2 and 3. 5. Finish with glitter topcoat, such as Essie Sparkle on Top.

Crystals have the power to make us feel all the feels—and so does a fresh manicure. Rita Remark, lead nail artist for Essie Canada and the brand’s lead global educator, has been meditating on this connection for a while. “I started to see rocks and crystals everywhere, whether it was a marble countertop or a necklace with a beautiful crystal on it,” she says, while on set in Toronto’s west end for this shoot. “Whenever I see a pattern forming, I have to copy it onto nails.”

Remark, 28, was introduced to the power of crystals when friends gave her a rose quartz to help her feel grounded while working amid the frenzy of New York Fashion Week. Now on her eighth season, she works with designers such as Band of Outsiders, Wes Gordon and Jonathan Simkhai to dream up the nail looks for their shows. She was also a backstage fixture at dearly departed Toronto Fashion Week. “Toronto is my home,” she says. “I really had a comfort zone with the designers—it was like family.”

Wherever she’s working, Remark is always looking to move her craft forward. “A lot of nail art is highcontrast and intentionally jarring— this is more subtle,” she says. “It’s also like a wink-wink to something that’s natural—some people only like ‘natural’ nails. Crystals are as natural as it gets.” These looks are surprisingly easy to DIY because the designs are haphazard and imperfect. “If one nail has more gold than another, it really doesn’t matter,” says Remark. “It feels right.”

THE LOOK ABALONE SHELL (LEFT). PROMOTES COMPASSION, GENTLENESS, PEACE

DIY INTEL 1. Paint black base. 2. Dab with iridescent charcoal, pearly pink, mauve, teal, rose gold and lime. 3. Use a striping brush to paint wavy black lines overtop. 4. Finish with shiny topcoat.

JOHN + JENN TOP, $150, JOHNANDJENNCOLLECTION.COM

T H E L O O K P Y R I T E ( R I G H T ). P R O M OT E S WEALTH, POWER, VITALITY DIY INTEL 1. Paint one coat of copper, such as Essie Penny Talk. 2. Cover with topcoat and while it’s tacky, use tweezers to press on pieces of tarnished gold leaf from a craft store. 3. Add another layer of shiny topcoat.

DANIEL CHRISTIAN TANG RING, $100, DANIELCHRISTIANTANG.COM

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TRY THIS THE LOOK AMETHYST GEODE (LEFT). PROMOTES INNER PEACE, BALANCE, INTUITION

DIY INTEL 1. Paint sheer lilac base. 2. On separate pieces of foil, mix dollops of deep purple, grey and off-white polish with drops of acetone. 3. Dab purple mixture on with paintbrush. 4. Add flecks of grey and off-white.

5. Paint full coat of sheer pink. 6. Use tweezers to apply uneven pieces of gold leaf. 7. Finish with topcoat.

MELANIE AULD BRACELET, $170, MELANIEAULD.CA. MEJURI RING, $130, MEJURI.COM

THE LOOK HOWLITE (ABOVE LEF T ).

PROMOTES AWARENESS AND STRESSRELEASE

DIY INTEL 1. Paint cream base. 2. Use a striping brush to paint very thin wavy black veins overtop. 3. Finish with shiny topcoat.

BAZZUL DRESS , $275 , BA ZZU L.COM .

B E AU FILLE RING , $350, SALES @ BEAUFILLE.COM

THE LOOK TURQUOISE (ABOVE RIGHT).

PROMOTES LUCK, PROTECTION, SELFACCEPTANCE DIY INTEL 1. Paint aqua base, such as Essie In the Cabana. 2. Sponge

on metallic teal and pastel green splotches. 3. Add a few drops of taupe polish to a cup of water, and spray with hairspray. 4. Dip each finger in, pull out, allow to dry. 5. Clean up cuticles and skin with remover.

6. Finish with matte topcoat.

BAZZUL DRESS , $275 , BA ZZU L.COM .

M A R M O D 8 R I N G , $ 9 0 , E T S Y. C O M / SHOP/MARMOD8

THE LOOK ROSE QUARTZ, PROMOTES SELF-ESTEEM, TRUST, LOVE

DIY INTEL 1. Paint translucent pink base.

2. Mix pink polish with acetone on foil; dab on nails. 3. Repeat step 2 with white polish. 4. Paint thin white veins with striping brush. 5. Top with coat of sheer white. 6. Finish with matte topcoat such as Essie Matte about You.

A LY N N E L AV I G N E R I N G , $ 2 2 0 , ALYNNELAVIGNE.COM. EXPRESS JUMPSUIT, $90, EXPRESS.COM A L L C R Y S TA L S C O U R T E S Y O F T H E RUSSIAN STONE, THERUSSIANSTONE.COM

THEKIT.CA | OCTOBER 2016 |

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THEY CALL YOU MELLOW YELLOW

L E T ’ S TA L K A B O U T S O C K S , BA BY

M a r i g o l d , b u t te r s c o tc h and canary have acquired an unflattering reputation, but if these looks are any indication, it’s about time we gave yellow another chance.

M ake like M ax M ara an d Valentino and go for a sunny head-to-toe statement.

We saw Tommy Hilfiger and 3.1 Phillip Lim spruce up our summer-only shoes with a cozy sock upgrade (bless) that kicks up the personality of any look with patterns and twee details.

ESPRIT COAT, $230, ESPRIT. TOPSHOP SKIRT, $80, THEBAY.COM. WILFRED FOR ARITZIA TOP, $75, ARITZIA.COM

STREET APPEAL These ready-to-wear-right-now trends—as modelled by the recent Spring 2017 showgoers—are anything but pedestrian

By Jillian Vieira

HIP TO BE SQUARE

So, picnicking is off the table for the foreseeable future, but with a sprinkling of gingham in the Victoria Beckham and Marques’Almeida shows, warmer days don’t seem that far away.

LISA MARIE FERNANDEZ DRESS , $650, LISAMARIEFERNANDEZ.COM. CAROLINE CONSTAS TOP, $640, NET-APORTER.COM. J.W.ANDERSON SKIRT, $795, HOLT RENFREW

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| OCTOBER 2016 | THEKIT.CA

STREET STYLE

FALKE, $29, FALKE. COM. HAPPY SOCKS, $ 1 6 , HAPPYSOC KS .

COM. TOPSHOP, $6, TOPSHOP.COM

BAND AID

The rocker-tee plus-leather combo has always given major cool-girl vibes.

And with nods to the 1980s in Hedi Slimane’s last collection for Saint Laurent, the look has gone certified gold.

GETTING THE CROP

If we learned anything from the Blumarine and Balenciaga collections, it’s that adding a notch of nonchalance to your denim is as simple as opting for frayed ends or shadow hems.

BRITNEY SPEARS TOP, $60, BRITNEYSPEARS.COM. PINK FLOYD TOP, $30, HMV.CA. NIRVANA TOP, $36, URBANOUTFITTERS.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY: PETER STIGTER (STREET STYLE)

GAP, $90, GAPCANADA .CA .

LEVI’S, $134, LEVI.CA. PAIGE, $330, PAIGE.COM

RUFFING IT

Fact: Airy flounces and sculptural ruffles are guaranteed Snap bait. We’re particularly sweet on this season’s cascading tiers, as seen at Gucci and Chloé.

REBECCA MINKOFF TOP, $210, REBECCAMINKOFF.COM. H&M TOP, $33, HM.COM. MSGM SHOES, $695, SSENSE.COM

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AMIKA COOPER, 24

Animator, editor, director, server, @blackpowerbarbie On her striated eyeliner: “I felt special. Being the canvas for this art gave me a feeling of power.”

On the power of women: “The beautiful thing about women is that we’ve always been powerful, regardless of how men decided we should exist in their society.”

CHANEL CALLIGRAPHIE DE CHANEL CREAM EYELINER IN HYPERBLACK, $40, AVAILABLE NOV. 1, CHANEL COUNTERS. BOSS DRESS, PRICE UPON REQUEST, SELECT BOSS STORES. H&M TOP, $13, H&M

DEEP IMPACT Jet-black makeup ruled the season. To capture the versatility of its eye-catching cool, we scouted wicked, woke women (all hail the #deepcreep) and discovered six of the most striking faces in Canada Photography by Luis Mora | Beauty direction by Rani Sheen

ANDI LIGA, 31

Makeup artist, @andi_liga On her finger/nail drama: “A little black makeup changes my look a lot, so I wait for cooler weather to rock a dark lip and full black lashes.

I loved that this black accent was on a different part of my body.”

On the power of social media: “It’s inspirational to see how my friends and colleagues document and curate their lives. But I also feel the emotional weight of being overstimulated by social media.

You can lose yourself in the feed.”

M.A.C CHROMALINE GEL/CREAM IN BLACK BLACK, $24, MACCOSMETICS.CA. SID NEIGUM DRESS, $850, THE ROOM AT HUDSON’S BAY

MOUNA TRAORÉ, 27

Actor, writer, filmmaker, @_mounatraore On her double cat-eye: “It’s sharp, edgy and dangerous. It definitely makes me feel powerful and sexy.”

On the power of discussion: “I find it empowering when I hear dialogue about race, gender, and sex happening in groups who are not subjugated by these issues. It gives me more faith in the world.”

L’ORÉAL PARIS VOLUMINOUS LINER NOIR IN BLACKEST BLACK, $13, DRUGSTORES. CHEAP MONDAY JACKET, $145, CHEAPMONDAY.CA. AMERICAN APPAREL TOP, $52, AMERICANAPPAREL.CA

NADIA GOHAR, 27

Artist, @nadia_gohar On her greasy, sooty eye: “The makeup artist applied Vaseline for a glossy look. I’ll definitely be using that trick.”

On the power of perspective: “Having grown up in Egypt, where female genital mutilation and ‘virginity tests’ still occur, I sometimes feel alienated by Western topics surrounding feminism and female empowerment.”

THE ESTÉE EDIT INSIDE TRACK EYE KAJAL IN EXTREME BLACK/GUNMETAL, $26, SEPHORA.CA. H&M TOP, $30, HM.CA. BCBGMAXAZRIA DRESS, $777, BCBG.COM

JASMINE CABANILLA, 19

Student, @jxsmine.c On her black glitter roots: “The sparkle emoji is my favourite emoji, and I think I was totally emulating it with this look.”

On the power of voices: “Watching Margaret Cho speak up about sexual abuse, or Constance Wu calling out the lack of Asian representation in Hollywood inspires me. These women, whose experiences I can relate to, are using their influence to pave the way for the rest of us.”

RIMMEL LONDON SCANDALEYES RELOADED MASCARA IN EXTREME BLACK, $9, DRUGSTORES. H&M TOP, $35, HM.CA

BEXK BEXK, 22

Designer, singer, @bexkbexk On her lacquered lip: “I love the dewy skin and bold black lip—very futuristic. I feel extremely powerful and elegant and the bold lip gives me extra confidence.”

On the power of black: “It’s a powerful colour. It’s very commanding and has the capability to turn any makeup look from drab to intriguing. There’s an alluring and poetic aspect.”

BLACK UP LIPSTICK IN M 30 SATIN BLACK, $28, SEPHORA.CA. CHANEL GLOSS VOLUME, $42, THEBAY.COM. HERMÈS DRESS, $9,200, SELECT HERMÈS STORES MAKEUP: JULIE CUSSON FOR CHANEL. MAKEUP ASSISTANT: LÉONIE LÉVESQUE. HAIR: WENDY RORONG FOR PLUTINO GROUP/ MOROCCANOIL. TEXT: VERONICA SAROLI. FASHION DIRECTION: JILLIAN VIEIRA. CREATIVE DIRECTION: JESSICA HOTSON

The ultimate fashion road trip

To celebrate The Kit Compact’ s national launch, 15 of the country’s coolest influencers set off on a stylish H&M road trip. The epic tour—full of fetes, shopping and selfies!—made stops at H&M stores in Vancouver, Calgary, Edmonton, Toronto and Ottawa. Here are some of our fave memories. Check out #hmxthekit for more.

VANCOUVER

@ TOBRUCK AVE ROCKS HER FAVE LOOK FROM THE @ HM FALL COLLECTION. VELVET PANTS FT W

EDMONTON

@ ADVINFASHION, @ THEPRETTYSECRETS AND @ IMALYSSALAU PARTIED AT THE WEST EDMONTON MALL

TORONTO

@ THATSOTEE THROWS DOWN A MASTER CLASS IN MIXING @ HM NETURAL SHADES FOR A COZY FALL LOOK

CALGARY

@ ANIAB TOOK OVER @ THEKITCA TO SHOW OUR FOLLOWERS HOW SHE GETS PARTY-READY

EDMONTON

@ THEPRETTYSECRETS TOOK HER NEW @ HM LOOK OUT FOR A WALK ALONG THE #YEG RIVER VALLEY

OTTAWA

@ ERINELIZ ABETHH HIT UP THE RIDEAU CENTRE TO CELEBRATE THE L AST STOP ON THE ROAD TRIP

CALGARY

@ BORNLIPPYSTYLE AND @ ANIAB ARRIVED AT CALGARY’S CHINOOK CENTRE IN MATCHING @ HM LOOKS

TORONTO

@ RANDOMACTSOFPASTEL, @ JODIBLK_ AND @THATSOTEE HOSTED A KILLER NIGHT ON BLOOR STREET

OTTAWA

@ ERINELIZ ABETHH TOOK HER @ HM FINDS TO HER FAVE SPOTS ON ELGIN STREET

THE HANDBOOK

BE POWERFUL

Edited by Kathryn Hudson Art direction by Sonya van Heyningen Illustrations by BIG SIS Still life photography by Hamin Lee

Let’s be real: It’s hard to grow up, speak up and, sometimes, dress up. But giving up isn’t an option—you’re too strong for that. So get inspired by our new superheroes: bold young women who leaped over their fears in a single bound and learned to kick ass

THEKIT.CA | OCTOBER 2016 |

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SE XUA L H E A LING

The night I lost my virginity, my boyfriend Nick and I drove to my family cottage and had sex with the lights off. Rolling awkwardly around on the floral bedspread in the guest room, I was squeamish about touching a bare penis—especially one I couldn’t even see—and it hurt when it tried to nudge its way inside me. But Nick was gentle and somehow we stumbled our way through. Afterwards, I remember feeling a mixture of pride and sadness as we sat outside naked, in the rain, and held each other.

It took me almost 21 years to get up the courage to have sex. Part of my fear was bred by the teachers at the Mennonite high school I attended, who spent sex-ed classes insisting that masturbation was a sin and sex

H U S T L E

BULLY CRUSH A

DRE

MOST P OWERF U

H A R D

Internet comedy superstar Lilly Singh isn’t afraid of putting in work “A ‘bawse’ is someone who dominates the world in her own little way,” declares YouTube sensation Lilly Singh, otherwise known as Superwoman to her almost 10 million followers. The 28-year-old who coined the term wasn’t born a baby bawse back in ’88—she struggled with depression. “I used to be someone who just tried to survive life. And then I was like, ‘This is not what I want to do; I want to chase my dreams, I want to work really hard.’”

In 2015, the Scarborough native, who drops biweekly YouTube videos, moved to Los Angeles, where she felt at home in the zealously active, if gluten-free, environment. “I was always the person who was busiest in Toronto. In L.A., I constantly feel like I’m catching up. Everyone around me is doing amazing things. I get more done in L.A. in a day than I probably would in a week in Toronto.”

True to her nickname, Singh has a superhuman ability to produce. In addition to a book, coming out in March, she worked on a newly released fire-truckred lipstick shade with Smashbox, appropriately titled Bawse. “I’m not a makeup guru by any means. I do comedy,” she says before we talk makeup.

“But I do really like a bold red lip because it suits my personality. I don’t want to settle, I don’t want to blend in; I want to stand out.”—Veronica Saroli.

Photography by Jenna Marie Wakani

SS

L EMOJ I

SMASHBOX BAWSE LIPSTICK, $28, SEPHORA.CA

GET INSPIRED: A CENTURY OF POWER HAIR

It’s not just a style: It’s a sign of the times. These bold women shaped our culture with their ideals, grit and, yes, iconic hair

Coco Chanel Coco revolutionized women’s fashion—and her waved bob set the standard in the 1920s.

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Frida Kahlo The flower-studded braids worn by this fiery Mexican artist were as iconic as her evocative self-portraits.

Jackie Kennedy From her perfect bouffant to her Halston pillbox hats, this First Lady’s style was as powerful as her political charm.

Angela Davis This fist-pumping activist started the rise of the Afro—a symbol of the Black Power movement.

Yoko Ono The peace seeker and wife of John Lennon used her long, free-flowing hair to declare her non-conformity.

Grace Jones With a legendary flat-top fade, this avant-garde disco queen became a style influencer and fiere fashion muse.

FKA Twigs From her hypnotic videos to her signature kiss-curl baby hairs, this British musician is the coolest in the game right now.

should be saved until marriage. I worried that unless a boy loved me, letting him come inside me meant I was being used…so I waited. And waited some more.

When I met Nick, I felt safe. We were friends for a year before dating and, though I didn’t feel particularly attracted to him, I loved watching ’80s kung fu films together and chatting on MSN at all hours. I assumed sexual chemistry would bloom.

Shortly after our six-year anniversary, after we’d bought a condo and adopted two dogs, Nick proposed.

Because I still loved him the way I always had, even more, I said yes and dove into planning an elaborate wedding—even though we’d completely stopped having sex years ago.

That was partly because, a year into our relationship, I started to suffer from vaginismus, which meant my vagina would spasm and experience a ripping, burning sensation when touched. It’s common for victims of rape, but for other women it often has a psychological connection.

So basically any time Nick tried to penetrate me, I could hear the deadbolt slide into place as my vaginal walls clamped shut. I spent years hopping from doctor to doctor, dabbing on numbing creams, testing vaginal dilators and taking pelvic-floor physiotherapy. Nothing seemed to help, and I was terrified to have sex. In fact, I’d almost given up hope that I’d ever want to have intercourse again. I was a freshly minted 28 years old.

Then I met John. We first spoke at a volunteer event and, even when he was across the room, my insides turned all marshmallowy. He radiated confidence and was covered in tattoos (yes, I’m a cliché). I started to fantasize about fucking him in every imaginable position.

When Nick had to go out of town for work, leaving me alone for six weeks to stress about our wedding, which was a few months away, I started to wonder if I wanted to commit to a sexless marriage. I was also getting the sneaking suspicion that the pain during sex wasn’t necessarily due to a medical condition—maybe I just didn’t want to have sex with Nick. So I hung out with John.

And I kissed him. And the night before Nick returned, I had sex with John on the bed that Nick and I shared.

The fact that the sex didn’t hurt was an awakening.

It was also the end of my engagement. Calling off a wedding isn’t easy, especially after you’ve spent $15,000 in non-refundable deposits and plastered inspo photos all over social media. It’s even harder when it means you have to break your best friend’s heart. But I couldn’t live with the guilt and shame of never, ever wanting to have sex with my husband.

Six months ago, I signed up for Tinder and Bumble— apps that weren’t even available when Nick and I started dating—and I’ve gone on more than 40 dates. I’ve slept with an elevator mechanic, a professional volleyball player, a firefighter and a music producer. I’ve slept with guys in Ireland and France. I slept with a guy who had a foot fetish and one who wanted to double-fist me with a dildo.

I now know that having my feet worshipped really turns me on, and if a guy asks for a blow job, then won’t return the favour, he can show himself the door.

Looking back, I can’t believe I considered getting married after sex with only one man. I’m over one-night stands, but I’m still seeking exquisite, toe-curling moments that come from being in sync with another person, from being fully inside your body and allowing fear and embarrassment to wash away. One recent summer day I had sex with a total stranger on his porch, while curtains swirled around us in the breeze, then lay naked while he fed me grapes.

If I can find those moments with someone I love and consider a friend, I’ll be able to stop searching. But until that day, I’m young, wide-eyed and—most important—free. *ALL NAMES HAVE BEEN CHANGED

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TEXT: NATASHA BRUNO (HAIR). PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES (HAIR)

Christina Bianchi finds the courage to push past pain and find pleasure

| OCTOBER 2016 | THEKIT.CA

THE HANDBOOK

STAND UP FOR YOURSELF FENDI GLASSES, $550, INDEPENDENT RETAILERS

MY SECRET IDENTITY

Now a super-successful TV host, Jessi Cruickshank reveals she was the office crier—and how she managed to shatter the glass ceiling with a crappy pair of fake glasses

FIND YOUR SPIRIT HERO: SHE-RA

If you’re a twin, pretty comfy wielding a sword, or very into a solid push-up situ, you’re a princess of power.

I have an alter ego. Like Beyoncé had Sasha Fierce, Eminem had Slim Shady and Superman had Clark Kent, I, Jessi Cruickshank, have Shoshanna. And I owe most of my success to her. Allow me to make a formal introduction.

At 23, fresh out of university, I was hired as an MTV host. My previous professional experience was playing a Pirate Wench at Canada’s Wonderland. While that prestigious job taught me how to fend off horny preteen boys, I never quite learned how to navigate a work environment that didn’t smell like funnel cake.

MTV was different. I had a desk! I had a boss! I had a television show that, occasionally, people would watch! There was so much to learn, and I was eager to devour it all. By the end of my first year, I was co-hosting two shows and producing

my own segments. I was booking camera crews and pulling music cues, writing jokes and supervising edits. I was no longer just a host, I was a bona fide producer—and one day I worked up the courage to discuss the disconnect with my boss.

I’ll never forget the long elevator ride from my basement cubicle to the executive floor where my boss sat in his big, windowed office. As the elevator ascended, my heart pounded through my purple LC by Lauren Conrad dress. I rehearsed exactly what I’d planned to say over and over again. It was a long, heartfelt speech that addressed how hard I worked, how passionate I felt, how deeply committed I was to our show, and it ended with “and that’s why I feel that I deserve a producer credit.”

Ding! Executive floor.

I took a deep breath and walked into his office.

I was ready to prove that I was more than just an on-camera host. I was ready to lean in. I was strong and capable…and within three minutes, I was crying.

My impassioned speech was inexplicably interrupted by the mortifying sting of tears and, suddenly, the only thing I was leaning into was a box of Kleenex.

I walked back to the elevator without a producer credit or a shred of professional dignity. I couldn’t understand why, in that moment—and in almost every challenging workplace situation that followed—my eyes suddenly filled with tears. Was I allergic to standing up for myself?

Then, one afternoon on a work trip to Laguna Beach, I found myself perusing boardwalk kiosks of cheap sunglasses. I threw on a pair of plastic horn-rimmed SUIT UP reading glasses and wiped off Create your own badass alter the little display case mirror. I ego with these perfect pairings was mesmerized by the woman staring back at me. She looked strong, fearless, confident—and for five American dollars, she changed my life forever. Behind the safety of those cheap glasses, I became Shoshanna.

My alter ego worked like a reverse Superman; with my glasses on, I wasn’t a meek journalist—I was unstoppable.

I placed them on my nose and Shoshanna marched back up to COS JACKET, $175, PANTS, $135, COSSTORES.COM. that executive floor. Without a CUTLER AND GROSS GLASSES, $612, CUTLER glint of a tear in her eyes, she AND GROSS asked my boss for a producer credit—and got it. In fact, I got almost everything I wanted when I was Shoshanna. I got raises, I got promotions; I got all the things that are often difficult for women to ask for, even when we’ve earned them.

For the first time, I had a protective barrier between my real, vulnerable self and every challenge that felt tough BANANA REPUBLIC to face head-on. Instead of VEST, $124, PANTS, $124, BANANAREPUBLIC.CA. being the sweet, likeable Jessi RAY-BAN GLASSES, $210, LENSCRAFTERS I was raised to be, I could be Shoshanna—a strong businesswoman who knows what she wants and isn’t afraid to ask for the recognition she deserves.

My cheapest accessory gave me my most valuable asset: power.

They also gave me a headache. They had loose hinges and scratched lenses, yet, for years, they helped me see clearly.

And eventually, channelling Shoshanna taught me how to PINK TARTAN JACKET, be her, with frames or without.

Jessi Cruickshank’s new CBC show, The Goods, premiered this month.

$595, PANTS, $325, PINKTARTAN.CA. KAM DHILLON GLASSES, $95, CLEARLY.CA

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SLOW CLAP

THE ONTARIO GOVERNMENT IS LEADING

BY EXAMPLE, APPOINTING AT LEAST 40% WOMEN TO EVERY PUBLIC SECTOR AGENCY BY THE END OF 2019

STRIP DOWN

NAKED AMBITION

Kate Carraway on why NBD nude nails are the ultimate boss move Lately, I’ve been drawn to the low-key, high-power nude nail—the manicure equivalent of a private Instagram account. It’s not that I’m against precision nail art, shit-hot neon or the baroque looks typically preferred on Snapchat.

It’s that the self-assurance of restraint is a more effective power move, demonstrating Coco Chanelegance in its rejection of trends.

A power-nude nail—most often mid-length and semisheer—is worn by bosses who can’t be observed showing off, like Hillary Clinton, or who just don’t need to, like Amal Clooney. But there is a double-edged sword filed just so in the reality of power beauty: The work that goes into maintaining a well-executed power look is routinely ignored. The highoctane babes of The Good Wife and Scandal are shown to be “handling it” (personal and professional disasters, international political intrigue), but the audience is never privy to Alicia or Olivia sitting in the salon waiting for their tips to dry.

Many of the style signifiers of female power come at an enormous secret cost of time, money and emotional labour: shopping, tailoring, grooming, and booking endless appointments. (Compare this with the grooming labour professional men are expected to do.) While nice nails have a great ROI—a manicure is probably the cheapest and most effective probeauty undertaking—they are also a tacit requirement to being a real boss bitch in a competitive, corporate environment.

Even if the nude manicure also provides pleasure and connotes a sense of mastery, its primary function is to make a woman seem appropriate to other people, by correcting and perfecting her natural nail, rendering it inhumanly Barbiesmooth. (The same goes for a nude lip.) And of course, “nude” makeup and fashion has long been a conduit for many

IN THE BUFF

D i d yo u k n ow a nude polish should match your nail bed, not your skin? More on how to nail your perfect nude, with tips from Melissa Forrest, manicurist and Shoppers Drug Mart spokesperson Take it outside “Always evaluate the colour in natural light.

I will quite often walk over to the window with my client to compare nudes before deciding which one to pair with their skin.”

Throw some shade “If you have pink undertones, a pinkier nude polish is best. If your skin has a warmer yellow undertone, go for a warm shade.”

other wrongs: “nude” bras and stilettos and nail polishes are generally manufactured in beigey-peachy pales that refer mostly to Caucasian skin tones. But let’s assume here that the term refers to the skin tone of the person wearing it, because nude shades are designed to be there and yet not.

If nude polish is supposed to mute the nail, colour is there to enliven it. Historically, my nail style was red—in bloods and cherries— or black, to match my forever thing for dressing tidily punk. I came to the power nude in a succession of 45-degree turns: First, in the midst of graduate school, my weekly manicure became a seasonal event. Then, during a period of social isolation when Lana Del Rey was on loop, I needed her throwback ’80s-lady nails (way long, almond-shaped, opaque pinky brown), which involved many hours and stupid money. Later, I got married to an actual grown-up (when one of my bests first saw his pic, she said, “That is a man”) and went back to work after getting my master’s degree. The coalescence of so much seriousness at once revealed to me, finally, that life and work are high-stakes and deserve total attention. I rethought my sartorial cues as a teenage dirtbag, who mostly wore whatever because who cares, and turned to Dior Incognito polish, my platonic-ideal nude, which I read about in a socialite’s beauty diary and which now lives in my bag.

These days, manicures are a tight, results-oriented operation where I pay first (and tip well), keep my coat on and listen to podcasts with my eyes closed while my nails are painted in silence. Not participating in extraneous niceties is a power move, too.

Flatten it out “If you want to edge up nude polish, apply a matte topcoat.”

Go long or go home “If you’re a nail biter, painting your nails with a nude shade will give the illusion of length.

Trust me, this works!”

FROM LEFT: QUO BY ORLY BREATHABLE TREATMENT + COLOR IN LIGHT AS A FEATHER, $11, SHOPPERS DRUG MART. TENOVERTEN VERNIS IN MURRAY, $24, THENATURALCURATOR.COM. SALLY HANSEN COLOR THERAPY IN CHAI ON LIFE, $12, DRUGSTORES. CND VINYLUX WEEKLY POLISH IN SKIN TEASE, $13, TRADE SECRETS. AVON TRUE COLOR MULTI BENEFIT BB NAIL ENAMEL IN RESTORING BEIGE, $9, AVON.CA. OPI NAIL LACQUER IN INSIDE THE ISABELLETWAY, $13, CHATTERS.COM. ESSENCE GEL NAIL POLISH IN FREE HUGS, $3, ESSENCEMAKEUP.COM

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TEXT: NATASHA BRUNO (BUFF); VERONICA SAROLI (BALLERINAS); AS TOLD TO JILLIAN VIEIRA (BERLIN). ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCKPHOTO (MEGAPHONE).

HAIR AND MAKEUP: ROMY ZACK (GIRL GANG). HAIR AND MAKEUP ASSISTANT: VANESSA GARLAND (GIRL GANG)

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| OCTOBER 2016 | THEKIT.CA

THE HANDBOOK

GIRL GANG

POWER POSE

2

Five dancers from the National Ballet of Canada elevate the season’s strongest piece: the hoodie

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Photography by Shalan and Paul

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4

1. SELENE GUERREROTRUJILLO, 28, CORPS DE BALLET

2. KATHRYN HOSIER, 26, SECOND SOLOIST

3. CHELSY MEISS, 30, FIRST SOLOIST

4. MIYOKO KOYASU, 25, CORPS DE BALLET

5. JORDANA DAUMEC, 31, FIRST SOLOIST

Guerrero-Trujillo moved to Toronto from Mexico City to study ballet when she was 16. “I realize now that I was pretty brave,” she says.

But adjusting to a new home wasn’t the hardest part. “Pointe was excruciating at the beginning, but once you have the strength, it feels fantastic.”

“There are times when your body feels like it’s going to give out,” Hosier says. “We’re constantly being critiqued. Every day is about picking out what’s not perfect, which can be a dangerous mindset.” The balancing act, you see, isn’t simply on tiptoes. “We wouldn’t do it if it wasn’t worth it.”

Meiss’s chipper outlook is like the exclamation point to her many type-A traits. “When people who know me as bubbly see me portray a role that’s darker or more pensive on stage, they’re blown away,” she says. “Everybody has that light and dark inside of them.”

With no-nonsense practicality, Koyasu reasons that painful never-ending practices have a silver lining. “The day of a performance, I might be aching or not feel good about myself, but I still have to go on,” she says, “so why not practise with pain?”

Luckily, Koyasu keeps Japanese bath salts handy.

Daumec laughed off a question about Kendall Jenner’s ballerina video, which recently miffed many dancers. (“It was hysterical.”) “We push our bodies to the limit and it has to look effortless even though you’re dying on the inside,” she says. When you’re dedicated to perfection, anything less seems, well, funny.

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SHUT UP AND MOVE

Sometimes you just have to book a ticket to Berlin. Why Kendra Thompson took the leap I thought my communications position at a luxur y fashion brand was a dream job. But when t h e tox i c wo r k e nv i ro n m e n t culminated in my termination, I was a late-twentysomething with decimated confidence and anxiety on high. Looking for a fresh start, I thought about the positive vibes I’d felt years earlier while on vacation in Berlin—and booked a one-way ticket.

Only a month passed between my decision to move and that first step on German soil, so, truthfully, I was waiting (hoping!) for someone to say, “You’re crazy, don’t go.” But after a going-away party and a slew of tearful goodbyes, it became real: I’d be leaving behind Toronto for a six-month atttempt at self-discovery.

I n th e f ir s t co u p l e d ays , I landed a job at a start-up, pieced together a living situ and, despite my shaky language skills, set up more friend dates than days in the week. Life in the German capital felt curative. I took my bike out for day-long spins, poured out of clubs to witness epic sunrises and led a successful presentation in front of 80 new colleagues.

Berlin is a draw for nomads, a transitional city, and, in the end, that’s why I decided to come home.

I had learned to trust my instincts.

Now I’m ready to figure out what I want my long-term life to look like.

FIND YOUR SPIRIT HERO: POWER PUFF GIRLS

Still have a security blanket?

(We won’t tell.) Then you’re the Bubbles to our Buttercup.

29

THE HANDBOOK

K ICK A NXIE T Y ’S A S S

Julie Cassell learns to battle her fear, MMA style

OW N YO U R LO O K

UNLEASH THE POWER OF BROWS

Makeup artist James Kaliardos dishes about doing Hillary Clinton’s makeup “We talked a lot about beauty and politics and how different female world leaders do their makeup. I said I think the brow is really important—it gives people the belief that you’re confident and determined and that you know what you’re doing. So we strengthened Hillary's brow and kept her eye simple with a little contouring, eyeliner and mascara.

I contoured her face a little bit and kept her skin warm and glowy—it was good for her to look healthy.

To me, makeup is a tool for communicating who you are.”

FIND YOUR SPIRIT HERO: POWER RANGERS If you love Cali juice bars, dudes in tank tops and take-no-prisoners gymnastics, then it’s Mighty Morphin time.

R A N T: C O M M E N T S T H AT M A K E U S H U L K O U T

Why ridic cool Canadian model and Beyoncé squad member Winnie Harlow is still fighting

“BOYS WILL BE BOYS.” “SMILE, SWEETHEART.” “OH, JUST RELAX.” “YOU’RE NOT MAD, ARE YOU?” “WE’RE OUT OF COFFEE.” “THOSE SHOES AREN’T PART OF THE SALE.”

G E T A S I D E K I C K Fortify your mind with these inspiring reads while you supercharge your skin with a powerful mask First rule of Feminist Fight Club: You must talk about FFC. Jessica Bennett dispenses proactive, takeno-BS advice on sexism in the workplace, alongside quirky cartoons illustrating the issue. Think of it as The Art of War for creative girls.

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30

Hitting theatres next year as a buzzy movie, Margot Lee Shetterly’s Hidden Figures profiles a group of brilliant black, female NASA mathematicians who helped get man to the moon during the Civil Rights era. The math wasn’t the hard part.

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Cleve Jones moved to San Francisco in the 1970s, where he worked under his mentor, Harvey Milk, and went on to become a pivotal and outspoken AIDS and LGBTQ activist. In When We Rise (out November 29), he chronicles his personal struggle and triumphs, which became intertwined with his causes.

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TEXT: AS TOLD TO KATHRYN HUDSON (CASSELL); AS TOLD TO CARLY OSTROFF (HARLOW); AS TOLD TO RANI SHEEN (CLINTON); VERONICA SAROLI (SIDEKICK). PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES (CLINTON). ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCKPHOTO (MEGAPHONE)

I’ve always been an anxious person, but after I had a baby, my fears skyrocketed. I wanted to feel more in control—like I could protect the two of us. Krav Maga, an intense form of Israeli martial arts, seemed like the perfect way to do that. I took my first class in July and it was exactly how I pictured army boot camp. I punched, kicked and fended off attacks alongside men and women of all ages—and, honestly, I was really intimidated that there were men in the class. But for every minute I hung on and challenged my body, I felt better—physically and emotionally. Walking back to my car, I almost wished someone would mess with me so I could kick his ass!

That feeling faded, though, and I had to push myself to go back.

I was nervous about not being strong enough or good enough or having to partner with a man.

It helped to remember what the instructor said about “While growing up with learning self-defence: that it vitiligo, my biggest lets you shift away from scary obstacle was that I thoughts of what can be done focused on what others to you, and focus on what you’re thought of me and capable of doing. I’ve learned not on my opinion of I don’t need to be bigger or myself. It was a daily stronger or faster than the person process of reminding trying to hurt me. One finger to myself that my beauty the eye or one foot to the groin is is my own. Every day, I all you need to stop someone of work on it. Even though any size, strength or gender and I gained confidence, buy yourself time to get away.

I’m still human and After years of therapy and have those days when trying to not feel anxious about I’m feeling weak. things going on in the world, it It’s something I will occurred to me that maybe I fight my entire life.” don’t have to try so hard to not —Winnie Harlow, who is feel scared. Maybe I can just now helping others find accept that certain things make confidence by fronting me feel anxious, and I can choose Dove’s #MyBeautyMySay to be brave and persevere anyprogram. Photography by way. I still have to gear myself up Christopher Wahl to go to class sometimes. But I’m proud of doing something to help me feel better. I’m not powerless.

| OCTOBER 2016 | THEKIT.CA

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Graduate top of your class in robotics.

Complete 1,000 pilot hours.

Be selected to go to space.

Have people ask how you’ll cope in space without makeup.

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LAST WORD

30 BC

POWER ANTICS

Take in this move: To cement an alliance with Mark Antony, Cleopatra wagered that she could easily spend a mind-boggling sum on a dinner. The following night, Cleopatra put out a simple spread and Antony was like, “WTF, this is basic”—until Cleopatra dunked one of her pearl earrings, worth half the wagered amount, into a chalice of vinegar, where it disintegrated and was imbibed. Antony got the message before the second earring took a dip.

EARLY 1600s

TULIPS

People went batshit for tulips back in the 1600s and created the first speculative financial bubble—which burst. In the 1620s, a handful of tulip bulbs would go for more than a tony house. So owning a tulip bulb was like inheriting a fine piece of N.Y. real estate overlooking Central Park—until it all came crashing down in 1637 because (obviously) no one could afford to drop that much dough on a flower.

2015

PUSH PRESENTS

2014

Kim Kardashian requested a $1-million Lorraine Schwartz diamond choker for her push present: her gift for giving birth to Saint West. Husband Kanye West ponied up, in case you were wondering.

GLAMBURGER

L o n d o n ’s H o n k y To n k restaurant debuted a burger with a £1,100 price tag. Because eating gold is the truest definition of conspicuous consumption, the buns were wrapped in gold leaf, and the centre of the burger contained black truffle brie. It also came with lobster, caviar and a smoked duck egg—light fare that’s light on fairness.

RIGHT NOW

VETEMENTS HOODIE

Sporting a Vetements hoodie says, “I’m super trendy and can afford to drop $800 on something that typically goes for 5 per cent of that amount,” which only heightens the cool factor. (Bonus points for being ironic.) It’s the gentrification of streetwear, th e Williamsburg of sweats, if you will. The label’s co-founder Demna Gvasalia has said that even he wouldn’t pay the prices he’s asking, but, hey.

2016

ART

Art is a well-established status symbol, but the art market has exploded of late.

This past February, an anonymous buyer scooped up Paul Gauguin’s Nafea Faa Ipoipo (When Will You Marry?) for a cool $300 million.

CASH COURSE

LATE 1800s

BASHES

At a Newpor t, Rhode Isla n d , p a r t y fo r th e crème de la crème of Gilded Age society, the centre of a table featured a stream stocked with fish and flanked with sand.

Guests had sterling silver shovels to sift through the sand, which glittered with rubies, sapphires, emeralds and pearls—your typical party favours.

The history of f*ck you money

F*ck you money [fək yoo mənē]: noun, singular.

The heaps of cash laid down by the prodigal one-percenters on ridic items that give a flagrant flip-off to the rest of the population, for little reason other than because they can. —Veronica Saroli

1900s

1920s

VINO

The wine auction scene was lit in the ’90s. Prices for rare French burgundies and bottles owned by famous people soared as mostly (white) men threw down their bloated bonuses on the drink of the gods. Fraudulent wine vendor Rudy Kurniawan banked $35 million from counterfeit vino in 2006, scamming buisnessmen like William Koch. But this May, Sotheby’s auctioned off $22 million of wine from Koch’s cellars, proving billionaires get the last laugh.

34

CONSPICUOUS CONSUMPTION 1980s

COCAINE

In the early 1980s, the Wall Street broker’s uniform was an American Gigolo-esque Armani suit accessorized with a packet of blow—which often went for $600 to high rollers. The Medellin cartel’s profits were as high as the users: A kilo of coke could be refined for $1,000 and sold for $70,000.

Mucho dinero, indeed.

Sociologist Thorstein Veblen coined the term to describe how the nouveaux riches display their wealth and gain public prestige by dropping coin on status buys like flashy clothes and houses. Kind of like how lone wolf Gatsby built that big house with the green light for Daisy, but IRL and less metaphorical.

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PHOTOGRAPHY: PETER STIGTER (VETEMENTS); GETTY IMAGES (GAUGAIN, WINE); INSTAGRAM.COM @KIMKARDASHIAN (PUSH PRESENT)

HERE WE GO!

| OCTOBER 2016 | THEKIT.CA

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