The Kit Compact September 2016 - Toronto

SEPTEMBER 2016 | TORONTO

IN FULL BLOOM Women rule. Meet the cool creatives taking over Toronto + Groundbreaking florals, cool cat ladies, hair tricks to try immediately

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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Laura deCarufel @LauradeCarufel

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Jessica Hotson @jesshotson EXECUTIVE EDITOR

Kathryn Hudson @hudsonkat BEAUTY EDITOR

Rani Sheen @ranisheen

FASHION EDITOR

Jillian Vieira @JillianVieira

MANAGING EDITOR

Eden Boileau @lilyedenface

ASSOCIATE BEAUTY EDITOR

Natasha Bruno @Natashajbruno

ASSISTANT DIGITAL EDITOR

Carly Ostroff @carlyostroff

ASSISTANT EDITOR

Veronica Saroli @vsaroli

ASSISTANT ART DIRECTORS

Sonya van Heyningen @svanh7 Kristy Wright @creativewithak

X

PHOTOGRAPHY: GEOFFREY ROSS (JACKET, EMBROIDERY); HAMIN LEE (FLOWER, RED PAPER); PETER STIGTER (LEOPARD, VELVET, HAIR); INSTAGRAM.COM: @NEUEHOUSE (EYES), @EMILYFILLER (PAINTED FLOWERS); GETTY IMAGES (FRAME); ISTOCKPHOTO (JEWELS). PABLO PICASSO BUST OF A WOMAN (DORA MAAR), OIL ON CANVAS, 1938, HIRSHHORN MUSEUM AND SCULPTURE GARDEN, GIFT OF JOSEPH H. HIRSHHORN, 1966, © PICASSO ESTATE / SODRAC (2016), PHOTO: CATHY CARVER; FLICKR.COM (PAINTING)

IN THIS ISSUE

DESIGNER

Amber Hickson @amblynncreative

PUBLISHER

Giorgina Bigioni

contents

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

4/ OUT & ABOUT

Tami Coughlan

PROJECT DIRECTOR, DIGITAL MEDIA

What’s new and cool in Toronto this month.

MARKETING MANAGER

5/ STREET STYLE

Kelly Matthews

Where Jodi Black scores her top T.O. fashion finds.

Evie Begy eb@thekit.ca CONTRIBUTORS

Jennifer Berry, Jodi Black, Chelsea Charles, Leeandra Cianci, Julia Cooper, Shalan and Paul Crivellari, Jael Ealey Richardson, Alyssa Garrison, Terry Go, Vanessa Jarman, Kirsten Klontz, Hamin Lee, Jonathan Lei, Amanda McCavour, Wendy Rorong, Geoffrey Ross, Mari Santos, Helena Scheffer, Andrew Soule, May Truong, Jenna Marie Wakani, Robert Weir, Aaron Wynia INTERNS

Danijela Keko-Aranilla, Aloisa Macedonio, Lauren Nunziata, Olga Pavlova, Sarah Said, Emily Skublics, Anna-Maria Stavridis The Kit is Canada’s 360˚ beauty and style leader © 2016, The Kit, a division of Toronto Star Newspapers Limited.

ACTING PUBLISHER, TORONTO STAR, AND ACTING PRESIDENT, STAR MEDIA GROUP

David Holland

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, TORONTO STAR

Michael Cooke

COVER

7/ LOOKBOOK

PHOTOGRAPHY: ANDREW SOULE. EMBROIDERY: AMANDA MCCAVOUR. HAIR AND MAKEUP: ROBERT WEI R FO R J U DY I N C . /C HAR LOT TE TI LB U RY. ERDEM DRESS, $7,675, NORDSTROM. REBECCA TAY LO R TO P, $ 3 2 0 , R E B E C C ATAY LO R . C O M

Coats with cattitude, amaze back-to-school hair.

14/ FASHION

These gorg florals will be your perennial faves.

21/ GIRL GANG

EDITOR’S LETTER

S

eptember is always dedicated to the new style season—a time of renewal, it is also a time of really good coats. Here, we’ve identified the most exciting, essential trends—think cat-lady-approved outerwear, all-velvet everything and (surprise!) red eyeliner. But we also wanted to kick things up a notch, to clap back at a cultural mainstream that can feel endlessly scrollable, curated beyond meaning, bleached of flavour and wonder. So, with a craving for authenticity, we turned our attention to artists. Artists, after all, hunger for the truth—and telling the truth takes guts, especially when you’re a woman.

I’m proud of how this issue evolved to become a true celebration of guts

THEKIT.CA | SEPTEMBER 2016 |

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Art students get revved in badass moto jackets.

and glory, enlivened by the work of more than a dozen Canadian artists— fitting, since it’s our first national issue, with new city mags in Vancouver, Calgary, Edmonton and Ottawa joining this Toronto edition. I particularly love “This Is How We Do It” (page 22), for which executive editor Kathryn Hudson invited artists to customize the same denim jacket. Upon unboxing, the results sparked office squeals likely audible only to schnauzers. “The Earth Laughs in Flowers” (page 14) is another highlight: Creative director Jessica Hotson worked with embroidery artist Amanda McCavour, who painstakingly created fabric petals inspired by fall’s coolest florals.

Then there’s “Stitch God”—friends, please turn to page 34 right now for an

insanely joyful creation by textile artist Helena Scheffer. (#imean #what #sixgod) One of the best things about style is that it offers each of us the opportunity to express ourselves. To push the boundaries a bit and to get a little weird.

I hope this issue inspires you to share your most creative self with the world.

The new season is here. Let’s play.

22/ CHALLENGE

These six artists legit blew our minds.

24/ BEAUTY INSIDER

Stop everything: Red eyeliner is awesome.

27/ FIRST PERSON Writer Jael Ealey Richardson was annoyed her heros weren’t supporting her dream—but her dream was the problem.

31/ SPOTLIGHT LAURA DE CARUFEL, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF @thekitca

@thekit

thekitca

thekitca

The film cool girls we’re fangirling over.

34/ LAST WORD

Because the world needed a quilt of Drake’s face.

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OUT & ABOUT

8-11, 233 Spadina Ave.

The hub of this art collective bears a striking resemblance to a 7-11 from the outside, but instead of slushies and hot dogs inside, there’s work from local emerging artists.

Northern Contemporary, 1266 Queen St. W.

Shed a tear if you missed the “Started from the Bottom: A Loving Tribute to Drake” exhibit in August. But the space in the old Ushers Grocers warehouse has plenty more where that came from.

Coldstream Fine Art, 80 Spadina Ave., #208

Coldstream is kicking off Nuit Blanche by hanging the marble-like canvases of Harrison Taylor on its walls during the month of October.

The nomadic gallery showcases new talent at pop-up exhibits; this exhibit, featuring female artists under the age of 33, was inspired by the Met’s “Younger than Jesus” show.

WANDER

ART CRAWL

Get in the spirit of Nuit Blanche (October 1) by perusing the coolest art shows the city has to offer

Struck stocks Warhols and the crème de la crème of modern art but also shows the work of cool, fresh artists. This fall, it’s popping up at 1066 Yonge St.

15+ ways to love Toronto this month

$9

$55

COCKTAIL AT LEÑA Bless his heart, Anthony Walsh named a restaurant after his mother-in-law. Spanning three floors of Saks Fifth Avenue, the joint serves up South American fare and fun drinks like Kalimotxo, made with Argentinian red wine, root beer tincture and bottled cola (it makes a difference).

Manifesto is toasting 10 years in the T.O. music scene with a, yup, 10-day extravaganza starting September 9. The fest crests with a musical mélange at Echo Beach on September 17 that boasts talent like Polaris-shortlisted artist Kaytranada, local soul singer Daniel Caesar and rapper-producer Anderson .Paak.

MAKE A DIFFERENCE

Hit up the Manitobah Mukluks Storyboot Project’s free weekly shoemaking classes at the Bata Shoe Museum (327 Bloor St. W.). Keep traditions alive and support indigenous culture!

Struck Contemporary, 571B Adelaide St. E.

THE 6IX INDEX

Yes, there’s a difference between vegan and plant-based. Head to Yorkville’s Planta (1221 Bay St.), a new veggiecentric restaurant from David Lee (Nota Bene) and the brains behind the Chase, to get a delicious definition of the divide. Then chew the fat, if you will, about the biodynamic wines, fresh juice cocktails and smoked-carrot “hot dogs.”

You budgeted for BBQ and wore the same sandals all summer (#patsback).

So spend the $124 you saved with purpose

GROOVE: MAKING A MANIFESTO

Younger than Beyoncé, 563 Dundas St. E., #201

HEY, GIRL: EAT ONE-HUNDO-P PLANT-BASED

INVEST WISELY

Phlegm on St. Clair

If you find yourself at Yonge and St. Clair, look up at cool Brit street artist Phlegm’s eight-storey mural. Toronto icons like Old City Hall are embedded in the art.

Bring binoculars?

A D E L E

O R

B U S T ?

Resale ticket prices to Adele’s sold-out tour stops at the ACC, from October 3 to 7, are steeper than a high C. Should you splurge?

= ONE JUST-OKAY TICKET IN THE LOWER BOWL ON THURSDAY ($504)

THREE PAIRS OF WARBY PARKER SUNGLASSES, FROM $150 EACH, 684 QUEEN ST. W.

$60

WALLET FROM MACKAGE The Montreal outerwear brand opened its first shop in Toronto at the Eaton Centre in August and is opening in Yorkdale this fall. Nothing says back to school like a card holder for your side hustle.

LIP GLOSS FROM NORDSTROM Nordstrom’s 220,000-square-foot debut Toronto location sounds like just enough space to cozy up with the tailors, language ambassadors and certified shoe, bra and prosthesis fitters. Pick up a statement piece from Space, an area dedicated to exclusive capsule collections with emerging designers like Steven Tai, Vejas, Brother Vellies and Wwake, or an exclusive Bobbi Brown lip gloss collection that makes you feel nostalgic for 2005.

FLY HIGH AMONG THE FESTIVAL FLOCK A field guide to the wild breeds that migrate to the Toronto International Film Festival (September 8 to 18)

Species: Itssonicetoseeyou not hummingbird Characteristics: Available during the day and holding a cashmere blanket for the theatre Plumage: Vibrant from cold-pressed juice and perpetual calorie burn Habitat: Everywhere at once Birdsong “I’m just so exhausted.”

Diet: Corporate movie tickets

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Species: Onit! magpie Habitat: Within eyesight of “the talent” Characteristics: Clipboards, cellphones and chit-chat on hand at all times Plumage: Head-to-toe black, comfortable heels, under-eye circles Diet: Journalists

Species: Drama mama parrot Characteristics: Aboveaverage appearance, blinding white teeth, master of speech Birdsong: “I fought very hard for this part.”

“I love Toronto.”

Migration: PJ from L.A. Diet: Alkaline

Species: Put it in the bag gull Characteristics: Lastseason sunglasses and product samples Habitat: Gifting lounges (IT House, Tastemakers Lounge), the aura of celebrities Diet: Loonie-sized tarts and sliders

Species: GangsofNewYork penguin Characteristics: Wears a tux under all clothing, surrounded by a noisy flock of small hungry birds Predators: Mid-life crises, lawsuits, heart attacks Habitat: L.A. resto booths

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Species: Scorseseforever hawk Characteristics: Always watching, good at trivia, stays for the credits Habitat: Dark theatres, long lines Diet: Popcorn and Tums Birdsong: “I predicted The Artist’s Oscar win.”

TEXT: VERONICA SAROLI. ILLUSTRATION: LEEANDRA CIANCI (BIRDS, MUSIC NOTES); ISTOCKPHOTO (“X”).

PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES (BEYONCÉ, ADELE); INSTAGRAM.COM: @MANITOBAH (MUKLUKS), @KAYTRANADA (MANIFESTO)

Max Mara, 151 Bloor St. W.

Max Mara’s 101801 coat is a work of art—literally. A travelling exhibit, “Max Mara x Roxanne Lowit” features the photographer’s portraits of celebs (and, um, Paris Hilton) swathed in the luxe coat, is parking itself in the Bloor Street store on September 29.

| SEPTEMBER 2016 | THEKIT.CA

COOL GIRL, COOL STYLE

BLACK BOOK

Toronto style star Jodi Black shares her hot spots Photography by Jenna Marie Wakani

NEIGHBOURHOOD WATCH Morning coffee “The city is exploding with great coffee shops, but Bar Buca (75 Portland St.) has the best Americano.”

Boutique love “Between the lacy resort wear and the lush greenery inside, LoversLand (215 Ossington Ave.) is like entering a dream.”

Ace R&R “The deep tissue massage at the Hammam Spa (602 King St. W.) is very restorative.”

Something sweet “I love the vegan birthday cake ice cream at Sweet Olenka’s (1056 Queen St. W.).”

Designer destination

Jodi Black (@jodiblk_), snapped at King and Shaw.

“Jonathan + Olivia (49 Ossington Ave.) has the coolest cold-weather staples. I bought my go-to parka there last fall.”

H&M STUDIO TOP, $70, PANTS, $80, HAT, $99, BAG, $129, HM.COM. H&M SHOES, HM.COM

THEKIT.CA | SEPTEMBER 2016 |

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5

LOOKBOOK

NOW TRENDING

Your September shopping list: cat-lady chic, NSFW hair oils, a bag worthy of a modern still life

VANITY BAIT Designers have the mini fur handbag down to a fine art. Embellished with look-at-me details, the modern masterpieces were installed on fall runways from Fendi to Ferragamo. Call it the season’s objet d’art.

—Jillian Vieira. Photography by Hamin Lee MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION BAG, $2,000, MICHAELKORS.COM

THEKIT.CA | SEPTEMBER 2016 |

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THE WILD BUNCH

Fact: There were about as many leopard-print coats on the fall runways as there are cat memes on the internet.

Scoop up your own version and style it with cattitude UPTOWN

DOWNTOWN

The rarest breeds understand restraint.

Tame your topper with impeccable tailoring and uber-prim accoutrements.

You don’t blink an eye at layering underwear as outerwear or piling on all the OTT accessories.

More is meow, you know.

THE AMATEUR NOSE A wine guru sniff-tests a champagnebased fragrance THE NOSE

Stephanie Guth, sommelier at the Chase, Toronto THE SCENT

Marc Jacobs Divine Decadence Eau de Parfum, $115 (50 mL), sephora.ca THE NOTES

Champagne, saffron, orange blossom, amber

J. CREW COAT, $2,160, JCREW.COM. HELDER DIEGO COAT, $495, HELDERDIEGO.COM. LONGCHAMP COAT, $3,235, LONGCHAMP.COM. AMÉLIE PICHARD SHOES, $775, AMELIEPICHARD.COM. CLYDE HAT, $560, CLYDE.WORLD. 3X1 JUMPSUIT, $660, 3X1.US. HERMÈS PLATE, $250, HERMÈS BOUTIQUES. ANDY WOLF GLASSES, $645, ANDY-WOLF.COM. COMMUNITY TOP, $98, ARITZIA.COM

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M OS

GIV EN CH Y

C H IN

O

THE VERDICT

SCOTCH & SODA COAT, $399, GOTSTYLE.CA. REBECCA MINKOFF COAT, $575, SAKS. ELIZABETH AND JAMES COAT, $2,795, SIMONS. FLEUR OF ENGLAND BRA, $145, FLEUROFENGLAND.COM. CAROLE LE BRIS PEREZ NECKLACE, PRICE UPON REQUEST, CAROLELEBRISPEREZ.COM. KATE SPADE BAG, $478, KATESPADE.COM. MARC CAIN SHOES, $370, MARC CAIN. NEED SUPPLY CO. TOP, $88, NEEDSUPPLY.COM. PAIGE JEANS, $425, THEBAY.COM. BARBARA BUI BAG, $1,900, BARBARABUI.COM

“It makes me think of a wine that’s quite perfumed—a Bernier or Condrieu from northern Rhône—in the sense that it’s pretty and floral.

A wine like a Muscat smells like peaches, which is a youthful scent to me, but this fragrance has a little more sexiness and depth. It’s like a Bernier, which is quite floral, but has an earthy element as well.”

PHOTOGRAPHY: HAMIN LEE (BEAUTY DESK); PETER STIGTER (RUNWAY); GETTY IMAGES (ALTUZARRA). LIFE IMITATING ART, CENTRE: PABLO PICASSO BUST OF A WOMAN (DORA MAAR), OIL ON CANVAS, 1938, HIRSHHORN MUSEUM AND SCULPTURE GARDEN, GIFT OF JOSEPH H. HIRSHHORN, 1966, © PICASSO ESTATE / SODRAC (2016), PHOTO: CATHY CARVER. LIFE IMITATING ART, RIGHT: DANTE GABRIEL ROSSETTI STUDY OF THE FIGURE OF LOVE FOR DANTE’S DREAM AT THE TIME OF THE DEATH OF BEATRICE, 1874. TEXT: NATASHA BRUNO (LIFE IMITATING ART)

OFFICIALLY EVERYWHERE

LOOKBOOK BEAUTY DESK FALL FAVES , A S SELECTED BY BEAUTY EDITOR RANI SHEEN

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2

1. DUST OFF Villainous dry shampoos left a Cruella De Vil streak in black hair—until now.

3

AG HAIR CARE JET BLACK DRY SHAMPOO, $28, CHATTERS.CA

2. LIP LUST Fiiiinally Poppy King’s cult line has arrived in Canada. This buttery, sheapacked lippie was worth the wait.

LIPSTICK QUEEN LIPSTICK IN MEDIEVAL (TOP) & SAINT PINKY NUDE, $33 EACH, MURALE

3. STRANGER THINGS Weird, murky nail colours seeped all over the fall runways—this metallic olive is gorgeously strange.

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TRUST FUND BEAUTY NAIL POLISH IN WELL PLAYED, $15, TRUSTFUNDBEAUTY.COM

4. GOLD STANDARD An all-natural wrinkle-repelling eye and neck balm with matcha green tea, coffee and 24-k gold flakes? Yes, please.

LINA HANSON GLOBAL TREASURES EYE/NECK + TREATMENT BALM, $138, THEDETOXMARKET.CA

5. POWER PLANTS Vancouver-made skincare that’s so pure and nourishing it’ll blow your face’s mind.

SANGRE DE FRUTA NEROLI FOREVER BOTANICAL TONIC, $54, PSYCHE FACE OIL, $114, SANGREDEFRUTA.COM

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6. BOOST MODE

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Cater to your skin’s every whim (dullness, fatigue, redness) by dropping one of these concentrates into your cream.

CLARINS BOOSTERS IN DETOX, ENERGY AND REPAIR, $40, HUDSON’S BAY

7. FRENCH FANCY D e a r l y d e p a r te d d e s i g n e r S o n i a Rykiel’s knits make the stripe-lover’s heart flutter, as will this collectible palette of pinky-brown eyeshadows.

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SONIA RYKIEL X LANCÔME LA PALETTE SAINTGERMAIN IN PARISIAN SPIRIT, $75, LANCOME.CA

8. SLEEP IT OFF Slide on this jelly-like hydrating mask before bed and you’ll wake up shinycheeked and refreshed.

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SHISEIDO IBUKI BEAUTY SLEEPING MASK, $48, SHOPPERS DRUG MART

9. FUR REAL 8

Who knew pubic hair care could be so chic? This new-to-Canada indie line oils and grooms the carpet.

FUR OIL, $54, INGROWN CONCENTRATE, $35, ANISEAPOTHECARY.COM

LIFE IMITATING ART The most creative fall beauty looks just happen to echo the buzziest art exhibitions across Canada

Artist Theaster Gates celebrates the black-culture origins of house music with How to Build a House Museum at Toronto’s Art Gallery of Ontario.

UNTIL OCTOBER 30, AGO.NET

Makeup artist Peter Philips swiped on party-ready tangerine lipstick (and fuchsia face dots) at Fendi.

Picasso’s fractured faces inspired makeup artist Tom Pecheux to create the offbeat eyeliner at Altuzarra.

“Victoriana club kid” is how hairstylist James Pecis described the vintagey piledhigh do at Simone Rocha.

MAKE UP FOR EVER ARTIST ROUGE IN C304, $27, SEPHORA.CA

M.A.C FLUIDLINE PEN, $24, MACCOSMETICS.COM

NEXXUS MOUSSE PLUS, $17, DRUGSTORES

Picasso: The Artist and His Muses at the Vancouver Art Gallery is a shout-out to the female muses of the cubist superstar.

UNTIL OCTOBER 2, VANARTGALLERY.BC.CA.

Feast your eyes on drawings by rebellious young Pre-Raphaelite artists of 19th-century Britain at the Art Gallery of Alberta’s Beauty’s Awakening.

UNTIL NOVEMBER 13, YOURAGA.CA

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TRY THIS

BACK-TO-RULE

New school year, new cool hair—time to polish up your campus style with A+ looks cribbed from the runway

By Rani Sheen | Photography by May Truong

Last year, Taylor Frankel took a break from her business studies at Ryerson University to launch makeup brand Nudestix (which she founded with her sister, Ally, and mom, Jenny) in Sephora stores from Mexico to Australia.

This September, Taylor, now 20, is heading back to school.

H A L F - U P B U N This

FAT DUTCH BRAID Glossy, full backwards braids were top of class at Mansur Gavriel.

HOW TO Add glossiness and body with a blow-dry lotion, then Dutch braid your hair. Gently tease pieces outwards to make fuller, pull a few strands loose and tie with a satin ribbon.

B O B B Y - P I N W A V E S Modern versions of retro face-framing waves ruled at Prada and Stella McCartney.

HOW TO Make a side part and curl the front piece with an iron. Hold in an S shape and pin in place with two bobby pins above the brow and ear. Spray to hold.

fresh take on the chignon earned extra credit at Tory Burch and Temperley London.

HOW TO Add tons of texture with dry shampoo and do a half-up pony. Divide tail in two and wind pieces around each other. Secure with another elastic.

LAURA SIEGEL DRESS, $285, LAURASIEGELCOLLECTION.COM

INVERTED PONY Flipped-over

ponies looked as cool on the Tommy Hilfiger runway as they did in middle school.

HOW TO Blow-dry sleek with oil spray, make a very low pony, then pull the tail over the elastic and through. Wrap black leather around the base for a cool finish.

DIY DEPARTMENT: THAT AMAZING DOLCE & GABBANA COLL AR

Dolce & Gabbana’s Alice-in-Wonderland-meets-garden-party fall show took surreal opulence next-lev—and the gorgeous ribboned collars straight-up stilled our beating hearts. Since we spend

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YOU WILL NEED

STEP 1

STEP 2

A shirt with a collar, beads, a glue gun, scissors, fabric paint and ribbon. Also a ribbon slider, which you can get at a craft store for less than $2—or steal one off an old belt.

Cut the collar off your shirt, making sure that you don’t cut off the collar’s seam. This will prevent it from fraying.

Paint the collar with fabric paint. We chose gold, because, obviously.

HIT LIST

ROCKER VOLUME

Sonia Rykiel and Ro b e r to C ava lli got behind hair with loads of body, height at the crown, and rumpled let’scut-class texture.

HOW TO Massage volumizing powder into your roots and b a c k- b r u s h t h e crown. Part in the centre and tuck behind your ears.

LAURA SIEGEL DRESS, $295, LAURASIEGELCOLLECTION.COM

HALF-UP BUN: DELECTABLE BY CAKE BEAUTY COCONUT & CREAM DRY SHAMPOO & BODY POWDER, $16, CAKEBEAUTY. COM, SHOPPERS DRUG MART ROCKER VOLUME: KEVIN.MURPHY POWDER.PUFF, $28, KEVINMURPHY.COM.AU FOR SALONS FAT DUTCH BRAID: MOROCCANOIL BLOW-DRY CONCENTRATE $28, MOROCCANOIL.COM INVERTED PONY: OGX O2 WEIGHTLESS OIL & LIFTING TONIC SPRAY, $10, WALMART BOBBY-PIN WAVES: PHYTOLAQUE SOIE BOTANICAL HAIRSPRAY WITH SILK PROTEINS, $26, SEPHORA

LEFT TO RIGHT: DEREK LAM, VIVIENNE WESTWOOD RED LABEL, SUNO, CALVIN KLEIN, THOM BROWNE, NO. 21

HAIR AND MAKEUP: WENDY RORONG FOR MOROCCANOIL/PLUTINO GROUP. PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT: JONATHAN LEI. PHOTOGRAPHY: PETER STIGTER (RUNWAY); GETTY IMAGES (SUNO RUNWAY); ISTOCKPHOTO (CHECKERS ILLUSTRATION AND JEWELS)

LOOKBOOK

ONE TREND, THREE WAYS CHECK MATES

Clashing plaids are friends, not foes. Play with pattern, scale and colour for your own Cher Horowitz-Dionne Davenport moment.

POSTGRAD PREP

PAULE KA COAT, $3,170, LYLA, MONTREAL. MAISON KITSUNÉ SKIRT, $370, SHOP.KITSUNE. FR. ALDO SHOES, $65, ALDOSHOES.COM. LAURIE FLEMING EARRINGS, $145, LAURIEFLEMINGJEWELLERY.COM. SCOTCH & SODA HAT, $70, SCOTCH & SODA

o b s e s s e d

:

BAD TO THE BONE

CITY SLICKER

MARSHALLS TOP, $25, MARSHALLS. CLUB MONACO PANTS, $230, CLUBMONACO.CA. COACH BAG, $685, COACH.COM. ECCO SHOES, $200, BY REQUEST AT ECCO.COM. MAWI CUFF, $385, MAWI.CO.UK

MULBERRY DRESS, $2,725, MULBERRY.COM. MARNI JACKET, $1,220, FARFETCH.COM. ANNEMARIE CHAGNON NECKLACE, $60, ANNEMARIECHAGNON.COM. KOMONO SUNGLASSES, $90, EGOCLOSET.COM. GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI SHOES, $1,230, GIUSEPPEZANOTTIDESIGN.COM

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s m e l l

“Creating your own destiny is about igniting the psychoactive frequencies and emotional pathways that unite us,” declares famed makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury. She’s not trying to get me to join a cult, but rather discussing her debut fragrance, Scent of a Dream, in her eclectic London office. It sounds like guru-approved rhetoric until you consider the very legit facts: Bestie Kate Moss (maybe you’ve heard of her) is the face of the totally-new-category, floral chypre fragrance that was formulated with guidance from fourth-generation nose François Robert, boasting notes like black pepper and spiritually revered frankincense.

“I’ve always had a fascination with the way that science, spirituality and the laws of the natural world come together,” says Tilbury, who included nods to medieval symbolism in the bottle design. Perhaps by divine coincidence, the scent seems to leave behind a magical trail, which Tilbury says drew people to her while she was secretly wearing the fragrance during development. “I’ve been everywhere from weddings to airports and had men and women run after me saying, ‘You can’t keep this to yourself!’” she says. Consider us converted.

—Jillian Vieira

CHARLOTTE TILBURY SCENT OF A DREAM, $119/50 ML, HOLT RENFREW

most of our cash on cold brew, we asked DIY expert Mari Santos to come up with a thrifty style for those willing to wield a hot-glue gun STEP 3

STEP 4

STEP 5

TA DA!

Glue beads and faux gems onto the collar with a glue gun.

Insert the ribbon into your ribbon slider to form a bow.

Glue the bow onto one side of the collar— not onto both sides or you won’t be able to get your collar on.

That’s it!

Enjoy your handiwork and prepare for major compliments.

Watch the collar come to life at thekit. ca/DIY 11

BALENCIAGA COACH 1941

$ 13

ZARA JACKET, ZARA.COM

$ 14

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LACOSTE TOP, LACOSTE.COM

$29 JOE FRESH SKIRT, JOEFRESH.COM

$16

TOPSHOP BOOTS, HUDSON’S BAY

TOTAL: $473

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TEST DRIVE

CÉLINE

VELVET CRUSH

Can you wear fall’s most luxe trend if you’re not rich as hell?

As a fashion lover who came of age in the ’90s, I lived for velvet. I spent my childhood scouring Montreal for forest green and burgundy crushed-velvet Lycra to make into gymnastics competition leotards (with matching scrunchies, obv). After I’d hung up my hoop and ribbon, I still clung to bodysuits that clipped at the crotch, worn with floral jeans. My family wasn’t wealthy, so well into my certifiably awkward teen years, I carefully budgeted my lean clothes allowance to spend on velvet pieces that felt special, like the navy slip dress I wore to a friend’s sweet-16 party, accessorized with a Y necklace and pouffy bob haircut.

Now, fall collections are resurrecting the fabric of my youth. Everyone from Rochas to Oscar de la Renta alums Monse sent a sumptuous rainbow of velvets down the catwalk. Happily, the trend is also hitting the high street, so I could easily satisfy my crushed cravings with a couple of gem-hued pieces.

First, I slipped on a sapphire midi-length Betsey Johnson dress topped with a teal Topshop blazer and accessorized with blush-pink mules and ribbon choker for a casual patio dinner. I felt like a cross between an extra from Interview with the Vampire and Seinfeld’s George Costanza’s velvet tracksuit fantasy—that is to say, a little bit goth and comfy as hell. A few days later, I paired that luscious blazer with lace-up flats and a blood-red lip to visit the Art Gallery of Ontario. Once inside, I escorted my crushed velvet from room

to room, feeling right at home among Canadian Group of Seven painter Lawren Harris’s emerald green and intense blue landscapes. In the Thomson ship models exhibit, I was suddenly Rose from Titanic.

Surrounded by Baroque Dutch paintings, I was transformed into Rembrandt’s Portrait of a Lady with a Lap Dog. After my delightful solo gallery date, I joined my family for a barbecue, during which my boyfriend’s mother regaled me with stories of her own love affair with velvet. In her early 20s, broke and newly married, she sewed most of her own clothes. Today, she reflected proudly on a plum velvet suit she’d made for a friend’s wedding some 40 years earlier. With a peplum jacket and flared skirt, it sounded impossibly chic, and I couldn’t help but appreciate the contrast: a homemade ensemble crafted in the richest of fabrics. It made me think of a 12-year-old me, scraping together weeks of allowance and babysitting money to buy a single coveted velvet piece. It also called to mind Dutch artist Johannes Vermeer’s famous oil painting Woman Holding a Balance, in which a delicate young woman sits cloaked in velvet, scale in hand. The prevailing interpretation is simple but profound: How you live your life matters more than the possessions you collect while you live it. Fall’s velvet may look and feel riche, but you don’t need to be rich to wear it. ­—Jennifer Berry

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I WANNA CLOAK MYSELF IN VELVET

FRAME DENIM BLAZER, $863, NEIMANMARCUS.COM. TIGER OF SWEDEN TOP, $169, SKIRT, $169, TIGEROFSWEDEN.COM. PRADA SHOES, $910, NORDSTROM. FLEUR DU MAL BODYSUIT, $345, FLEURDUMAL.COM. AMERICAN APPAREL TOP, $52, AMERICANAPPAREL.CA. EDIE PARKER BAG, $2,280, EDIE-PARKER.COM. REBECCA TAYLOR DRESS, $640, SAKS

SONIA RYKIEL

Channel every clique at once (preps, jocks and even those country kids) for the cost of one Life of Pablo jacket

PHOTOGRAPHY: PETER STIGTER (RUNWAY EXCEPT MONSE); GETTY IMAGES (MONSE RUNWAY AND MAMET)

FASHION MATH COWBOY COLLEGIATE

ABOVE, FROM LEFT: 3.1 PHILLIP LIM, MONSE, ALBERTA FERRETTI, VALENTINO, KENZO, OPENING CEREMONY. BELOW: EMILIO PUCCI

MARC JACOBS BRACELET, $120, MARCJACOBS.COM

LOOKBOOK HAPPENING NOW REWORKED SAFETY PINS In grade school, safety pin decoration—on acid-washed denim jackets, tartan kilts or otherwise—was a marker of creative badassery. Now, jewellery designers like Montreal native Lauren Klassen are turning these everyday fasteners into precious wearables. “Realistic objects made from the wrong materials, like Charlie and the Chocolate Factory’s garden built completely out of chocolate, have always been very appealing to me,” explains Klassen. And on the runways, the humble safety pin saw itself transformed into XXL earrings at Balenciaga and as punkish detail on military coats at Christopher Kane. It may be time to reawaken your middle-school bad girl.

CHRISTOPHER KANE

LAUREN KLASSEN NECKLACE, $1,575, LAURENKLASSEN.COM

FACE TIME

NEVER QUIT Why Zosia Mamet is betting on herself When Zosia Mamet is thinking about how to answer a question, she begins to hum. It’s exactly the kind of quirk you would expect from Shoshanna Shapiro—Mamet’s character on HBO’s Girls. But in real life, the 28-year-old is a lot more grounded. “Every time something goes super awry or I don’t get a job I really wanted, I just try to think about life as a long game,” she says. “Like a marathon as opposed to a sprint.”

But getting to this headspace—and into upcoming films alongside actors who range from Greta Gerwig to John Malkovich—has taken the actor and Secret ambassador years. She has been open about her longtime battle with an eating disorder. “I think so much of it is about trying to figure out what’s at the root—what’s causing you to take part in that type of a disease,” says Mamet. “It’s always so much bigger than how you look or just wanting to be thin.”

She grew up in the industry (her

“LIFE IS TOO SHORT TO SPEND IT HATING YOURSELF.” father is playwright and producer David Mamet; her mother is actor Lindsay Crouse), so she recognizes the pressure on teens to fit into rigid beauty ideals. “Being a teen is tough, so I would just tell girls to try and embrace who they are and what they were given, because life is too short to spend it hating yourself.”

Today, Mamet feels strong.

“You know, even if I feel insecurity or self-doubt, I have to trust in my own ability. Otherwise, what am I doing here?”

—Carly Ostroff

PAIGE NOVICK EARRINGS, $3,255, PAIGENOVICK.COM

GIRL’S GUIDE TO LIFE MAMET’S RIDE-OR-DIE BEAUTY PRODUCTS

“I think a good ChapStick is absolutely key to living a happy life.”

CHAPSTICK TWIN PACK, $5, SHOPPERS DRUG MART

“Basically anything from Osea.

It’s super simple, there’s no junk in it, and it smells like heaven.”

OSEA OCEAN CLEANSING MILK, $62, OSEAMALIBU.COM

“Weleda Skin Food is always in my bag.”

WELEDA SKIN FOOD, $23, WELL.CA

BOOK OF THE MOMENT

“6000 Days of Us. It’s not incredibly well written—the author [Rosina Rucci] doesn’t claim to be a writer—but she felt she needed to tell [the story of her first love], and I found it really brave.”

BEST PLAY EVER

“She Loves Me. I worked recently with Jane Krakowski, so we went to support her.

Everyone is so pitch perfect, and I left the theatre feeling like I ate a bowl of rainbows.”

ALBUM ON REPEAT

“Jenny Lewis’s new album.

I’m an epic fan of hers.”

GO-TO LABELS

“Female designers like Jill Stuart and Cynthia Rowley, who have a wonderful way of being feminine but not too girly, are really my jam.”

BEAUTY ADVENTURE WATER WORKS

En route home, I fought jet lag with this cooling rollerball illuminator infused with thermal water. It gave my plane-parched skin a soothing boost of moisture (and muchneeded glimmer).

Associate beauty editor Natasha Bruno hit up the volcanic Vichy region in central France to hunt water.

But not just any H 2 0: the mineral-packed, skin-strengthening thermal water that’s in every Vichy product.

(Single tear: It didn’t fit in her suitcase.)

Three hours south of Paris, the spa town of Vichy was once the hottest vacation spot for the French elite—like the Tulum of the Belle Époque. #thehighlife

VICHY TEINT IDÉAL ILLUMINATOR ROLL ON, $27, DRUGSTORES

Meet Lys, a funky mushroom-like buildup of minerals formed from the water bubbling at a scalding 66ºC. Isn’t she a beauty?

THE VICHY AREA HAS MORE THAN 200 NATURAL HOT SPRINGS. NBD. THEKIT.CA | SEPTEMBER 2016 |

How gorg is the Hall des Sources?

Built in 1902, this art nouveau structure connects to six hot springs via pipes so people can drink the water for medicinal purposes.

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These taps deliver a fresh supply of potent water from the Célestins hot spring.

This elixir is used for the blissful treatments at the famous Vichy Célestins Spa Hôtel.

(Yes, I had one. Yes, it was ridic.)

I caught a ballin’ ride over the chain of 80 now-dormant volcanoes in Auvergne that are responsible for the buffet of thermal waters.

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A blossom-stitched housecoat offers a masculine take on a greenhouse print.

SUNO COAT, $1,545, SUNONY.COM. TANYA TAYLOR PANTS, $545, TANYATAYLOR.COM

Opposite page: Garden florals go city with a painted denim and pop-art hoodie combo.

MARY YOUNG BRA, $82, MARYYOUNG.CA. LIBERTINE SWEATER, $970, ILOVELIBERTINE. COM. BLUMARINE PANTS, PRICE UPON REQUEST, BLUMARINE.COM

THE EARTH LAUGHS IN FLOWERS The coolest way to celebrate the autumn awakening? Say it with fall’s mega florals

Photography by Andrew Soule | Embroidery by Amanda McCavour Creative direction by Jessica Hotson | Fashion direction by Jillian Vieira

Victorian silhouettes reach peak romance with gilded floral details.

SIMONE ROCHA DRESS, $2,420, DRESS (WORN UNDERNEATH), $3,040, THE ROOM AT HUDSON’S BAY

Opposite page: Double up on your moody perennials.

H&M STUDIO BRA, $30, TOP, $40, SELECT H&M LOCATIONS

BEAUTY NOTE

This fall, eyeliner reaches outside the box, all the way up to brows. Choose a blossomy pink for an artistic flourish.

MARC JACOBS BEAUTY HIGHLINER GEL EYE CRAYON EYELINER IN OBAY-GE, $31, SEPHORA.CA

Field florals cast in molten metal produce the perfect evening dress.

KAELEN DRESS, $2,275, KAELENNYC.COM. ALYNNE LAVIGNE EARRING, $175/PAIR, ALYNNELAVIGNE.COM

Opposite page: Lighter-thanair buds get grounded with bold colours and delicate tiers.

KAREN WALKER DRESS, $755, KARENWALKER.COM. JENNIFER TOROSIAN TOP (WORN UNDERNEATH), $295, JENNIFERTOROSIAN.COM BEAUTY DIRECTION: RANI SHEEN. HAIR AND MAKEUP: ROBERT WEIR FOR JUDY INC./ CHARLOTTE TILBURY. MODEL: ALIISA IRVING FOR ELMER OLSEN MODELS. EMBROIDERY PHOTOGRAPHY: GEOFFREY ROSS.

ARTIST NOTE Embroidery artist Amanda McCavour thought she had her medium on lockdown—“working with thread is in between drawing and something tactile”—but while studying fine art at Toronto’s York University, she realized there was a major roadblock to exploring the sculptural, three-dimensional quality of thread: “You can’t stitch into air.” Her ingenious solution?

Embroidering on a water-soluble fabric that melts away, leaving behind large-scale light-as-air installations that have graced Toronto’s Textile Museum and exhibits in locales as far as South Korea.

Here, McCavour took cues from the designer garments and spent more than 50 hours creating veil-like blooms that play with contrasting scale and colour.

STRESS TEST #7226

Go undercover in an unstable country.

Break a major story.

Start a movement for social change.

Have people say it went viral because you’re pretty.

Prove them wrong.

Do it again.

© Procter & Gamble 2016

STRESS TESTED FOR WOMEN

GIRL GANG

REBEL HEART

These creative students know banking on an art degree isn’t the safe choice.

Do they look scared? Here, they show off their grit in fall’s bomb streetwear

By Veronica Saroli | Photography by Aaron Wynia

SHOT ON LOCATION AT CABIN CONDOS. MAKEUP BY VANESSA JARMAN FOR P1M USING MAKE UP FOR EVER. HAIR BY KIRSTEN KLONTZ FOR P1M USING ORIBE & R+CO

TREND NOTE

Just in time for leather weather, the moto jacket, the ultimate bad-gal staple, cruised onto the runways in cool new iterations: colour-blocked and quilted (very dirt-bike) at Courrèges, nipped at the waist and two-tiered at Louis Vuitton and finished with a sailor collar at Kenzo. The uniting factor? All of these beauties said, “I could cut class in a heartbeat, but I’d rather learn, TYVM.”

THEKIT.CA | SEPTEMBER 2016 |

ALOISA MACEDONIO, 20

CHANTELLE BEDA, 21

SABINA FENN, 21

ELIZABETH POLANCO, 22

ESTELLE MUZYCZKA, 21

PA I G E JAC K E T, $ 1 , 59 5 , PANTS, $1,630, PAIGE.COM

ROOTS JACKET, $1,090, ROOTS. COM. TIGER OF SWEDEN TOP, $80, TIGEROFSWEDEN.COM. LACOSTE S K I R T, $ 1 9 5 , L A C O S T E . C O M .

ROOTS SHOES, $320, ROOTS.COM

JOHN + JENN DRESS, $175, JOHNANDJENNCOLLECTION. COM. PAIGE TOP, $275, PAIGE. COM. HUNTER SHOES, $210, CA.HUNTERBOOTS.COM

B E AU F I L L E S K I R T, $ 9 5 0 , S I M I L A R S T Y L E S AVA I LAB LE AT HOLT REN FRE W. LACOSTE HAT, $85, LACOSTE. CO M . A LD O S H O ES , $ 13 0 , ALDOSHOES.COM

RUDSAK JACKET, $695, RUDSAK. CO M . L ACOS TE D R ES S , $ 32 5 , LACOSTE.COM. ALDO SHOES, $120, ALDOSHOES.COM

“Campus fashion is exotic. I’m surrounded by the most interesting creative people. There are so many styles— it’s like a jungle,” says Macedonio, who spent this summer killing her internship at The Kit.”

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“Owen Sound is a small town; I was the only one who would wear heels and dresses to school,” Beda says about why she moved to Toronto. “But when I told my dad what I wanted to study, it was, like, the biggest fight ever.”

“As an art student you tend to notice all the details around you,” says Fenn, who illustrates on the side and counts Saks Fifth Avenue as a client. “There’s a lot of pressure on us to have a career right away.”

“Creative work isn’t the kind of thing you can research and then cut and paste in,” says Polanco.

“You have to invest a lot of time and creativity—it can be really draining,”

“We’re the first generation to deal head-on with social media in this industry,” says Muzyczka. “Sometimes we get caught up in our next post or how we come off aesthetically, which seems important now—but I don’t know whether there will be jobs surrounding it.”

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“I OFTEN LOOK TO THE CRAZY COLOURS AND PATTERNS OF FASHION FOR PAINTING IDEAS.”

“EVERYONE HAS A JEAN JACKET THEY’VE WORN FOR AGES—IT BECOMES AN EXTENSION OF YOUR BODY.”

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“YOU CAN’T DOUBT YOURSELF AS AN ARTIST— THAT CAN BE THE BIGGEST CHALLENGE.”

“MY PROCESS? CUT IT DOWN, DRESS IT UP, THINK OF MUSIC AND ATTITUDE.”

CHALLENGE

THIS IS HOW WE DO IT

We asked six of the brightest visual artists in the country to make their mark on a classic Gap 1969 jean jacket. The result: totally unique and ridic inspiring

By Kathryn Hudson | Photography by Geoffrey Ross

1. “It’s not in my personality to take big risks, but oddly, I have taken many in becoming an artist,” says Ottawa-born, Toronto-based artist Emily Filler. “The desire to create has led me along the way.” Filler certainly isn’t timid in her work: bold floral collages of graphic fabrics and book clippings. “I try to make these gathered fragments into something whole,” she explains. With this project, Filler felt fearless because she was working with denim for the first time.

She decided to bleach and embellish the jacket with ribbons and bottle caps: “Things I have thought about experimenting with in my paintings but haven’t quite resolved yet.”

GAP JACKET, $90, GAPCANADA.CA

2. “Being a creative person runs in my family,” explains Kathryn Macnaughton, whose father, brother and grandmother are also artists. “Also it was the only thing I was good at.”

Now the Toronto-based artist is making a name for herself from London to Miami with her vibrant graphic abstracts.

“There is already so much colour in my life from my paintings, so I usually wear black and white,” she says. Here, she stuck to her sartorial inspo and focused on those shades. “I wanted the jacket to have a rebellious punk rock vibe,” she continues. “The spray paint and the nude doodle give it a vandalized feel.”

meets parade float meets lavish Indian wedding” style. “I want to encourage people to think about the quality and history of the things they choose to wear.”

4. “I’ve always been interested in art—I like working through ideas with material,” says Vancouver artist Colleen Heslin, who has been experimenting with dye, linen and second-hand fabrics in her abstracts. “My studio is filled with excess,” she adds. In fact, she collects fabrics to make her works, which have been exhibited in the Musée d’Art Contemporain de Montréal and the Vancouver Art Gallery. Despite the graphic approach she often brings to her art, Heslin admits that when it comes to clothes, she “appreciates some bling.”

she quit her day job in 2007. “But,” she says from her Ottawa studio, “being an artist means being committed.” The leap paid off: Authier’s large-scale work, in which she plays with colour and texture “to create a sense of playful disorientation,” was picked up by the National Gallery of Canada. For this challenge, Authier got “cheeky” and sewed panels of treated linen, which is traditionally used to make canvases, into the jacket.

“The excitement was figuring out how to bridge fine art and fashion.”

6. “The thought that I’d never be able to

in my clothes and that they will hold up,” says Toronto-based artist Kalpna Patel, whose Pan Am Games installation was created from 680 kilos of cardboard.

“And I like my clothes to reflect that I am a person who makes messes.” That’s why she was so drawn to the idea of rugged denim for this challenge. “Your clothing tells a story. It reminds me of tapestries, which have a meaningful storytelling tradition in folk art.” So Patel turned the back of the jacket into a loom, threading colourful wools and tassels by hand in her signature “children’s picture book

pay rent as an artist never crossed my mind. Is that a bad thing?” asks Mississauga, Ont.-based Noelle Hamlyn.

Her art can be described in one word: “‘Lonely.’ There are a lot of ghost-like feelings. My work is the remainder, the reminder, the leftover, the memory.”

That’s why she often works in shades of white and thin skins of paper and felt.

Her latest body of work, which is being supported by the Ontario Arts Council, starts with this jacket. “I’m coating garments in plaster and turning them into ‘bricks’ to form a wall of clothing.” n

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“MY AIM WAS TO GIVE A NOD TOWARD PUNK AND HIGH FASHION.”

5. Melanie Authier took a big risk when

3. “I like to know that I can make a mess

THEKIT.CA | SEPTEMBER 2016 |

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“I HATED FASHION. I WANTED NOTHING TO DO WITH IT IN HIGH SCHOOL—THEN I REALIZED ITS POWER.” 23

NAILED IT

“This looks like a lip gloss but it’s actually for the nails. It’s transparent, but it’s still that classic, pulsating red.”

SEEING RED

Lucia Pica’s debut Chanel collection proves that makeup can be born of art—and that red eyeliner is magic

By Rani Sheen | Photography by Hamin Lee

Not every makeup artist deserves the title “artist”—technician is sometimes more fitting—but Lucia Pica is up there with the Cindy Shermans and Tracey Emins of the world. Known for her avant-garde work in indie mags like i-D and Love, and on the runway for fearless designers such as Peter Pilotto and Henry Holland, Pica was tapped

by Chanel to head up its makeup division in 2014—a major coup for the Italianborn Londoner.

Tasked with designing her debut makeup collection for the venerable house—which released its first red lipstick more than 90 years ago—Pica decided to experiment with the colour red, which she says she’s been drawn to her whole life. “It’s a colour that has the power to change the way you feel,” she explains. It’s also the colour of much of her right arm, which she doesn’t mention but takes no pains to hide as we preview the collection together in London.

While at the drawing board, Pica considered how to link the ultimate classic colour to a feeling of freedom. Enlisting the help of her creative friends—photographer Max Farago, set designer Andy Hillman and director Clara Cullen—Pica injected red paint into a tank of water and photographed it as it morphed; she made a short art film featuring flying sheets of red paper; she played with transparency and hue and anything else she could think of to make a beautiful, slightly subversive series of artworks. “We had this fantastic four days finding new colours and new textures,” she says.

It’s unusual—and delightful—to see such a thorough exploration of abstract ideas in the world of makeup. “I think it’s interesting to show how much thought is behind everything at a luxurious brand like Chanel,” Pica explains. She translated her creative exploration into six lipsticks, two lip pencils, a blush, a palette of four matte eyeshadows (the brand’s first mattes, which took a year to perfect) and a red nail gloss that was clearly born from that study in transparency. Pica applied every item in the collection on Kristen Stewart for the campaign images, including the weirdly flattering crimson eyeliner. “Kristen told me that she wears red liner to look more intense,” says Pica. “It shows a little travel, a little mystery. She was telling me that all her favourite actresses did that.”

To state the obvious, an entire face of red makeup is intimidating—but Pica is on a mission to dispel our fears. “Your face naturally produces the colour, so it’s interesting to bring red out in different places,” she says. “Not only on the lips, but around the eyes, inside the eyes on the lash lines and on the cheeks.” She likes to dust a little red blush on the apples of the cheeks and blend it into a triangle shape. “It looks like it naturally happened—like you just went through something and you blushed,” she explains with a smile. “And if you have hazel eyes with a bit of yellow and green in them, red eyeshadow makes your eyes brighter,” she continues. “There is this transformation that happens.”

Now that’s art. n

CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM LEFT: CHANEL LES 4 OMBRES MULTI-EFFECT QUADRA EYESHADOW IN CANDEUR ET EXPÉRIENCE, $68, LE CRAYON LÈVRES PRECISION LIP DEFINER IN DÉSIR, $33, LE VERNIS NAIL GLOSS IN ROUGE RADICAL, $32, ILLUSION D’OMBRE LONG WEAR LUMINOUS EYESHADOW IN ROUGE BRÛLÉ, $41, ROUGE ALLURE VELVET LUMINOUS MATTE LIP COLOUR IN ROUGE FEU, $43, JOUES CONTRASTE POWDER BLUSH IN ROUGE PROFOND, $53, DIMENSIONS DE CHANEL MASCARA IN SUBVERSIF, $41, LE VERNIS LONGWEAR NAIL COLOUR IN ROUGE PUISSANT, $32, CHANEL COUNTERS

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ICON INSPO

“COCO CHANEL USED TO SAY, ‘RED IS THE COLOUR OF LIFE, OF BLOOD.’” WHY YOU NEED TO TRY RED M A K E U P, L I K E , TONIGHT compact

1. IT UPS YOUR GLAM FACTOR “Red lipstick with a brown undertone has a very sophisticated finish,” says Pica. “It’s less poppy and bright, and much more glamorous.”

| SEPTEMBER 2016 | THEKIT.CA

BEAUTY INSIDER

HOW DEEP IS YOUR RED? We chart the shade from highbrow to low-rent

THREE COLOURS RED This stirring French flick legit has 100% on Rotten Tomatoes.

REDRUM We can agree this is the most chilling part of The Shining, right?

RED WEDDING Holler, Game of Thrones nerds!

COLOUR THEORY

“I wanted to experiment—to do a really deep study into this colour and have an emotional, abstract response to it. I was interested in how colours transform through the light and through photographs,” says Pica (below).

The result: The graphic art pictured here.

INSPO NOTES

RED RIDING HOOD The original hoodie, so look for a knock-off in the next Vetements collection.

“LADY IN RED” Yes, this song is ridic and cheesy.

And, yes, we will sway to it every. single. time.

“People have been asking me, ‘Were you inspired by vampires for the red collection?’ I wasn’t really going for that. If anything it was a fashion memory of the ’90s and Peter Lindbergh’s photographs of the supermodels with big dark lips and shiny faces.”

TAYLOR SWIFT She of the feelings, friends and lipstick is all about red.

“ROSES ARE RED” Lame poem, but when your gradeeight BF sent you a card, it was cute, right?

“RED, RED WINE” “Goes to my head, makes me forget” that we belted this in our 4 a.m. karaoke sesh.

CLIFFORD This big red oaf is doomed to always be a poor man’s Snoopy.

BIG RED GUM What high school makeouts taste like. Def not a good thing.

2. IT MAKES YOU LOOK LESS TIRED

3. YOU WON’T LOOK LIKE YOU HAVE PINK EYE

4. IT CAN BE TONED DOWN

“Putting red on your cheekbones disguises dark circles. Sometimes when we’re tired we add more and more concealer and it doesn’t work because it makes you paler. But if you add a little red, you look fresher.”

“Putting red on your eyes actually brightens your eyes and your complexion. It doesn’t make you look sick or tired. We’ve been trying it on people of many colours, attitudes and hair colours, and it seems to be working.”

“If you suddenly feel like your red eyeshadow is too bright you can use tricks to disguise it: Mix it with dark chocolate or lighter brown, add a bronze pencil or black mascara. You can decide the gradation of the red.”

RED GREEN SHOW An eye-rolling part of being Canadian that can only inspire a #KanyeShrug.

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TELL IT LIKE IT IS JK, tell us we’re awesome.

Join The Kit Compact reader panel and give us your scoop on what you love & what you want a little more of.

VISIT THEKIT.CA/COMPACT-READER-PANEL

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANDREW SOULE

P. S . Y O U G E T E N T E R E D T O W I N A $ 2 5 0 G I F T C A R D F R O M H & M .

WE TOLD YOU WE’RE AWESOME.

FIRST PERSON

ARE YOU THERE GOD? IT’S ME, JAEL Jael Ealey Richardson grew up feeling lost.

Now an influential author, she’s found the power of her voice Illustration by Chelsea Charles

Artist note Chelsea Charles of Brampton, Ont., created “Is TV Too White?” while studying illustration at Sheridan College in Oakville, Ont. She wanted to start a dialogue about the challenges that women of colour face for her thesis. She is now collaborating on a rad upcoming project with Ealey Richardson. Stay tuned.

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FIRST PERSON

W

hen I was 17, I was invited to accept a scholarship from a local women’s group at a fancy dinner in Mississauga, Ont. My parents were away, and the thought of carrying on a conversation with grown women during an entire three-course meal terrified me. I wasn’t shy, but adults made me feel awkward and unsure of myself. They reminded me that I hadn’t quite lived yet.

I wore a floral knee-length dress and kept my legs crossed, even when it was uncomfortable, because I was among ladies. An older black woman—a producer at a TV network—sat next to me. She asked me what I wanted to do after university.

“I want to be an actor.”

I thought she would be impressed, but she scowled instead. “Why would you want to be the one in front of the camera getting told what to do?” she said. “Don’t you want to be the one behind the camera, shaping the story?”

My face turned warm. I felt pushed down when I expected to be lifted up. I didn’t understand: I loved the rush of auditions; I loved performing on stage; I loved being the star. Why would I want to be behind the camera?

I continued to pursue acting, but that comment stayed with me. It disrupted how I thought about my future and, somehow, how I saw myself as a woman.

I knew from the ads I saw on TV that I was supposed to feel easy, breezy, confident, beautiful. But in those ads, I saw white women with long, straight hair that pooled around their shoulders. I saw women who were lean and carefully groomed, women who could wear skinny jeans and bikinis with confidence. I could hardly find a pair of jeans to fit over my thighs; putting on a bathing suit made me feel lumpy and ugly. Was the word “beauty” even meant for me— someone brown-skinned and thick-framed with a head of tight curls? Was there space on television for someone like me?

The books I read also made me feel fractured and uncertain about myself. In the historical fiction I pored over, black characters were always slaves. In the books I read in school, black people were poor, demonized or persecuted. In most cases, they were missing altogether. Was that my story? Was I less than?

Ugly? Unwanted?

I read my first story with a black female protagonist in university. Reading Djanet Sears’s play Harlem Duet felt like opening a letter from a friend. The characters were raw and angry, sweet and tender. The modern-day prequel to Shakespeare’s Othello told of the broken love between Othello and Billie, a couple in Harlem. It explored the frustrations of an educated black woman in a world that favoured white versions of beauty— frustrations I understood vividly as the child of black Americans who immigrated to Canada. Harlem Duet brought depth and definition to the thoughts I had begun to write down ever since I got a diary with its very own lock and key back in middle school.

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FINDING THE WORDS

My diary was the first place I ever wrote ideas down with the intention of keeping them. I wrote about the black boy who kissed me in the stairwell at school, about the white boys I liked who always ignored me. I wrote about loneliness, about faith, about my lack of faith that anyone would ever love me enough to marry me. I felt embarrassed when I read those thoughts over as a teenager. The stories felt trivial and vain, unworthy of reading.

Perhaps that’s why Harlem Duet resonated with me so deeply. In the play, Othello says that his new relationship with a white woman is “easier.” Did all men think black women were too difficult? Could I be strong and lovable? I had so many questions, but there was one thing I knew for sure: If I was going to pursue acting, this was the kind of story I wanted to be a part of.

When Djanet Sears came to the campus for a guest lecture later that semester, I was one of a handful of black students in a room of 200 people. She stood at the front of the lecture hall in a long, flowing dress, her hair in wavy dreadlocks. She was bold and assertive. When she was finished, I knew I needed to speak with her. I joined a long line of students, clad in university T-shirts and jeans, and waited until I was the last person. I told her I loved the play, and she thanked me. I told her that I was studying to become an actor. I asked her how I could find more monologues like the ones she had written in Harlem Duet, so I could use them for auditions.

She didn’t hesitate. “Write your own,” she said.

I felt small and uncertain, like she didn’t understand what I meant. I was an actor, not a writer. Why wouldn’t these women just encourage me to pursue my dream? But Sears and that TV producer already knew what took me just a little more time to discover: There are not enough of our stories, our perspectives on life in literature and in the media. They were encouraging me to not only perform art but to create it.

That year, I wrote my first play, my upside down black face, about a young black woman pursuing an acting career in the television industry in Toronto. Ten years later, I published a memoir reflecting on what I learned from the story of my father’s upbringing.

Now, I’m working on a novel.

Writing is how I wrestle with problems like race, beauty, poverty and injustice—problems that are too big to manage, problems that don’t always have answers.

Writing allows me to question everything. It is my way of recolouring history and inserting my story into a world where I once felt unworthy and absent. Writing is the most powerful and portable weapon I possess. n

Authors open up about the books that changed their lives “I found Poor Cow by Nell Dunn when I was 21 and a single mom. I was feeling lost and lonely, and the book was a revelation. It was so unapologetic. Like me, the main character, Joy, has a baby with a man who isn’t ever going to be around. She’s so accepting of the predicament she’s gotten into. It made me feel like I was all right even though I wasn’t upper class and didn’t have a partner.

We all make do. We all make mistakes. It’s what makes life hilarious.”

— Heather O’Neill, author of

Daydreams of Angels

“Charlotte Brontë still inspires me more than any author. She wrote great novels against even greater odds about young women who somehow manage to do the same thing.”

— Ann-Marie MacDonald,

author of Adult Onset

WAS THE WORD “BEAUTY” EVEN MEANT FOR ME— SOMEONE BROWNSKINNED AND THICK-FRAMED WITH A HEAD OF TIGHT CURLS? compact

“A friend of mine gave me a copy of Open by Lisa Moore, telling me that she saw something of my writing in the stories.

Although she was being hugely over-generous, reading Open was like watching the clouds dramatically part above me and having the sun beam down on my face. It was tough and beautiful and alive and true.”

— Amy Jones, author of We’re

All in This Together

“I look to Toni Morrison’s novels whenever I need inspiration, especially The Bluest Eye. Her prose is honest, pure and exquisitely crafted.

It sings on the page.”

— Ami McKay, author of The

Witches of New York

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SPOTLIGHT

GIRLS ON FILM

We seem to lose our collective mind when celebs touch down during the Toronto International Film Festival. But the true stars of the movie industry have been here all along—living, working, making a difference—and these women shine brighter than any Gosling

By Julia Cooper | Photography by Shalan and Paul

TIFFANY HSIUNG DIRECTOR

Director Tiffany Hsiung’s new documentary, The Apology, follows the wrenching stories of girls and women from across Asia who were forced into sexual slavery as “comfort women” during WWII, and who—70 years later—still live in shame. Hsiung, commanding and charming in equal measure, admits that it was “heavy subject matter to cover in a first film, but also very necessary.” Over the six years the filmmaker spent working on the doc (with an all-female crew and the support of the women execs at the National Film Board), Hsiung came to a realization: “The story was bigger than me and the things I was going through during that time, and it became a responsibility to share their story in the most human way possible.”

LIFECHANGING FILM “I saw Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (1990) on opening night when I was 10.

The theatre was so full that I had to sit by myself.

I remember the energy in the room and that everyone started screaming when the movie started.”

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TIFFANY BEAUDIN EDITOR

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LIFE-CHANGING FILM “The Joy Luck Club (1993) made me look into the lives and sacrifices of the women in my own family.”

Tiffany Beaudin is Toronto’s high priestess of film editing. From the Oscar-nominated Claude Lanzmann: Spectres of the Shoah (2015) to Tiffany Hsuing’s The Apology, Beaudin has been making cinematic magic happen in post-production since 2004, when she completed the Canadian Film Centre’s prestigious Editors’ Lab program. Beaudin insists that film editing is not the solo work it might look like. Of her time behind the scenes she says, “I don’t think it’s lonely at all. Editing seems like solitary work, but I’ve met so many people and formed amazing working relationships. Editing is so incredibly collaborative with the director that it becomes this exciting process.” Watch for the establishing shots, dissolves, splices and cross-cutting she’s responsible for in the upcoming feature Don’t Talk to Irene, starring feminist film legend Geena Davis. > 31

TKTKTK

DERAGH CAMPBELL ACTOR

HAIR AND MAKEUP: ROBERT WEIR FOR JUDY INC./CHARLOTTE TILBURY MAKEUP. HAIR AND MAKEUP ASSISTANT: JORDAN KING. SHOT ON LOCATION AT CURATED PROPERTIES

Deragh Campbell is a low-key festival darling— from Sundance to the Berlinale and a 2015 TIFF Rising Star—who, at 27, speaks like a wizened grande dame of art house cinema. And though Campbell is lithe and cool and infinitely chill to be around, she is also a quiet storm. From her standout performance in Matt Porterfield’s I Used to Be Darker (2013) to her upcoming role in Julian Radlmaier’s The Pursuit of Happiness, Campbell has often chosen independent films whose gender politics she can get behind. As she puts it, “It’s important to fight for the character as a complex individual.” What’s more, she’s quick to point out that TIFF her success has been thanks MUST-SEE to rad women in the industry.

“Manchester Of the programmers she met at by the Sea the Berlinale festival, Campbell

by Kenneth Lonergan says, “Sometimes in film you’re because I lucky enough to find these pockloved his ets of incredibly smart women previous film who support you and champion Margaret your work.”

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(2011).”

ACT 1 Watch Atom Egoyan’s The Sweet Hereafter (1997), marvel at the restrained acting and cry your face off.

PAIR WITH: Crispy Crunch, a deceptively simple exercise in subtlety that lingers (in your teeth) forever.

ACT 2 Screen David Cronenberg’s Eastern Promises (2007), which has fewer awards than his other films but more nude knife fights.

PAIR WITH: Maltesers.

Yup, that’s a ball joke.

ACT 3 Cleanse your palate with Justin Bieber: Never Say Never (2011). Don’t make that face: It’s a touching coming-of-age tale.

PAIR WITH: Ketchup chips, because they are trashy.

Does that make us love them more? Maybe. (Yes.) ACT 4 Get your brain back in gear.

Gem-of-a-human Sarah Polley probes her family history in the riveting doc Stories We Tell (2012).

PAIR WITH: Smarties, pieces that just belong together and are packed with nostalgia and colour.

MALLORY ANDREWS CRITIC

In the age of internet trolls, being a film critic isn’t always glamorous, but Mallory Andrews can go toe to toe with any trash-talking unhatched egg. As senior editor of cléo, a journal of film and feminism (and “a true labour of love”), columnist at Movie Mezzanine, and an alum of the IndieWire T I F F M U S T - S E E Critics Academy at the Locarno Film Festival in Switzerland, “I want to see Andrews stands out for her impeccable eye and incisive sexElle. Isabelle ual politics. She’s helping to even out the gender gap in film Huppert in a writing—largely still a bro’s game—but that doesn’t mean rape/revenge Andrews knows only about “female interest” movies. “As I’ve thriller directed come to be known for writing from a feminist perspective, I by the guy who tend to mostly get assigned to review ‘women’s films’—but made ShowI have the skills to write about the new Scorsese too!” she girls? Shut up says. Make no mistake: Andrews can talk Star Wars and and take my slapstick with the best of them. money.”

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HOW TO BINGEWATC H CANADIAN FILMS WITH THE U LT I M AT E CANCON SNACKS

ACT 5 Check out one of our brightest stars’ cinematic debut in Xavier Dolan’s I Killed My Mother (2013), then sleep like a baby.

PAIR WITH: Thrills gum, because this rosewater gum sounds whack but is oddly addictive.

—Kathryn Hudson BOSS TOP, $475, HUGOBOSS.COM

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| SEPTEMBER 2016 | THEKIT.CA

THE KIT x APOTHIC

Truth or dare

The August heat only made a recent soirée at the Darling Mansion in Toronto steamier. With a glass of Apothic wine in hand and an evening of edgy Truth or Dare fun, the style set gathered for a scintillating evening of drinks and dark glamour 1

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1. Deanne Wilder of My Fash Avenue’s red lip perfectly matches the merlot and decor. 2. Toronto’s own singer-songwriter Fefe Dobson stays cool with an off-the-shoulder look 3. Ice dancer Piper Gilles descends the stairs at the Darling Mansion. 4. Justine Iaboni of Jetset Justine chills on the floor with a crisp glass of white. 5. Apothic red and white bottles nestled among eccentric decor. 6. Photographer Brett Clarke is all smiles while Jay Strut of Jay Strut flashes a peace sign. 7. Stylist and digital marketer Dustin Carrington sits back on a plush blanket. 8. A Truth card is at play during a riveting game of Truth or Dare. 9. DJ and baker Sophie Jones sets the music.

10. Actor and singer Cory Lee shows off another playful use for lipstick. 11. Chloe Sugar of Double Tee’s and Katie Marks of Toques + Truffles share a laugh.

LAST WORD THE FAMILY FEELS THE RESTO

Fring’s—rumoured to be Drake’s nickname for Rihanna—is no longer shorthand for fries and onion rings. “It’s just something you pull from your own emotions,” Drake has said cryptically of the name of the spot he opened with celeb chef Susur Lee. Go for the neon emoji sign, stay for the cocktails and fuzzy chairs.

THE OVO EMPIRE

Though it started as a blog in 2008, October’s Very Own is now a three-day music festival, a record label and an apparel line with collabs with Roots, Nepenthes and Canada Goose under its belt. We have OVO to thank for merch with gilded owl outlines and smooth tunes by Majid Jordan.

THE NICKNAME

Like Midas sows gold, everything Drake touches turns into a culturally acute meme.

A titular shift occurred worldwide in 2015 when he renamed the T-dot the 6ix—no easy feat—because of the lyric “running through the 6ix with my woes” from “Know Yourself.”

Never has being a mama’s boy been so cool. Sandi Graham is the chill AF mom you could be BFFs with. Now, his dad, Dennis Graham, is releasing tunes that wouldn’t be out of place in a motel room with a mirrored ceiling, if his first single, “Kinda Crazy,” indicates anything.

THE WEEKND THE MIX TAPES

We haven’t thought about a mix tape since Cliff gave one to Torrance in Bring It On, but Drake made the mixtape formula legitimate for unsigned artists to release tracks and promote them like an album (see Chance the Rapper, Jazz Cartier).

THE EMOTIONAL COMEDOWN

Strip away the millions, and Drake is a tender soul who just can’t catch a damn break.

Every song feels like looking out a car window in the rain.

C’mon: “Why do I want an independent woman to feel like she needs me?” Sniff.

In 2011 @Drake tweeted lyrics from The Weeknd and posted his songs on the OVO blog, and people were all “Who's dat?” Since then, there’s been rumoured Canadian beef between the two, but everyone who matters (sorry, Bella) is Team Drake forevs.

STITCH GOD Quilt by Helena Scheffer

THE PUFFER

Drake is the Kate Middleton of music videos. Sales of the cherry-red $1,000+ Moncler Maya jacket worn by Drizzy in “Hotline Bling” doubled within hours of the vid’s release.

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On the heels of a raging OVO Fest and a sold-out stint at Madison Square Garden, some (haters) are questioning if Drake has reached the ceiling of his fame. We respectfully disagree. In tribute to—and in defence of—Aubrey Graham, our nation’s most emotional treasure, we commissioned this tenderly crafted textile artwork. Because Drake and quilts have a lot in common: They’re layered and complex—and would keep you so warm at night. Here, we explore everything he’s given us.

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TEXT: VERONICA SAROLI. PHOTOGRAPHY: GEOFFREY ROSS (QUILT); GETTY IMAGES (FAMILY FEELS); INSTAGRAM.COM: @ROYWODS (EMPIRE, RIGHT), TORONTO STAR (FRING’S, EMPIRE, LEFT AND TW CENTRE); ISTOCKPHOTO (HEADPHONES)

Sewing together the threads of the Drake effect

| SEPTEMBER 2016 | THEKIT.CA

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