Angus Larder

Larder SECOND EDITION

E T O T H E F O OD D & D RINK O F A N G U S

GUIDES

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Anguus and enjo oy

inn glorious surro ounding

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Discover your own taste of Angus at the many local restaurants, cafĂŠs, farm shops and markets.

From summer berries to the freshest seafood and the finest beef, you can savour the taste of good food the way it should be.

For details of where to eat, where to buy and how to cook the fantastic local produce, plus much more, visit www.atasteofangus.com

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Introduction The Angus Larder Part of The Larder series of food and drink publications thelarder.net Editor Donald Reid, eat@list.co.uk Editorial assistance Jay Thundercliffe, Keith Smith, Claire Ritchie Writing & research Emily Arbuthnott, Kate Dessain, Malcolm Jack, Sandy Neil, David Pollock, Claire Ritchie, Maud Sampson, Keith Smith Design & Production Simon Armin Map Angus Council Cover Arbroath Smokies at M&M Spink, Arbroath by Paul Reid anguspictures.com Publishers Robin Hodge, Simon Dessain Larder Project Director Peter Brown ©2014 The List Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior permission in writing of The List Ltd.

The List Ltd 14 High Street Edinburgh EH1 1TE Tel: 0131 550 3050 list.co.uk Extensive efforts have been made to ensure the accuracy of the information in this publication, however the publishers can accept no responsibility for any errors it may contain.

he ancient Pictish culture of Angus is evidence of a longstanding relationship between the land and those who lived from it. Diets may have changed over generations, but the land and sea of Angus has rarely failed to provide. This fully updated and revised second edition of the Angus Larder is an informed, in-depth and practical guide to the contemporary food culture of the region. It tells you about the food grown, made, landed and created in Angus, and just as importantly where to find it, from seasonal farm stalls to smart restaurants and attractive daytime cafés. In the following pages you will find stories and people, history and innovation, everyday staples and more indulgent treats, all offering plenty of inspiration to eating well in and from Angus.

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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS This guide has been developed by The List working with Angus Council. The Angus Larder is supported by Angus Council and the European Regional Development Fund.

EDITORIAL SELECTION: The editorial content of all guides in The Larder series including the Angus Larder is independently researched, written and produced by The List. As consumer-oriented guides to local food and drink, all the businesses and organisations covered are selected by The List on the basis of their editorial merit and relevance. No entry in The Larder’s national and regional guides pays to be included, none is obliged to advertise and none is given sight of its coverage before publication.

The Angus Larder is available in digital formal, reconfiguring to suit all computers, tablets and smartphones, at list.co.uk/angus-larder The Angus Larder 3

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Contents list.co.uk

What’s in the Angus Larder?

There’s a lot packed into these 48 pages. Here are a few of the highlights

Chef’s Choices

Class Cattle

Some of the best chefs in Angus select their favourite local produce. See panels from page 31.

Beef is taken seriously in Angus. After all, it’s the original home of the world-famous Aberdeen Angus breed. See page 8.

Where to Buy

Perfect Picnics

Our listings of the best food shops, butchers, fishmongers and farm shops around Angus. From page 26.

A selection of our recommended picnic spots around Angus are on page 45.

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Contents

From Angus

Greet Your Greens

A comprehensive round-up of the food grown, farmed, made and landed in Angus. See page 22.

Inspired by Italian models, rural tourism based around food and farming is finding new expression in agritourism. Find out about its Angus roots on page 20.

Got Some Bottle

Where to Eat

The Scottish craft beer revolution has its local activists, enthusiasts and micro-breweries. See page 17.

The venues where you’ll find local food on the menu. From page 33.

Introduction

3

Features

6

Map

24

Where to Buy

26

Where to Eat

33

Windfall Bonus

Farmers’ Markets & Food Festivals

46

Find out how the fruits of local fields and orchards are the toast of the region. See page 9.

Index

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Potatoes list.co.uk

Spiritual Spuds The humble tattie has long been one of Angus’s most important crops. Keith Smith investigates past and present and discovers one farmer’s unusual route to market

heap to produce, easy to grow – even in poor soil – and highly nutritious, the potato transformed the peasant diet when it was introduced to Scotland in 1739. It soon comprised a large chunk of the average Scot’s daily food intake, and proved crucial to the success of the Industrial Revolution in the decades that followed.

It was coal that fired the furnaces which powered the factories, but it was the potato that fuelled the workers staffing them.

Angus has historically been one of the country’s key growing areas, a trend that continues today, with farmers producing a range of potatoes, from mass cultivars

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such as Maris Piper and Rooster, to little-known (and wonderfully named) heritage varieties including Arran Victory and Yukon Gold. And as well as feeding their fellow countrymen, the region’s growers are helping nations across the globe to provide for their own populations by supplying disease-free spuds for seed.

Scottish seed potatoes are worldrenowned for their quality, with farmers exporting almost 80,000 tonnes annually, according to Science & Advice for Scottish Agriculture (SASA). And thanks to the region’s conditions and topography, Angus is particularly good for growing seed potatoes, explains

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Name of Potatoes section

Andew Skea of Skea Organics, who supply growers across the UK and Europe.

‘Warmer climates encourage the aphid population, which spread the diseases, so the cooler temperatures here inhibit that,’ says Skea. ‘Even within Angus, there are differences. At Auchterhouse where we are based, the land is between 500 and 700 feet above sea level, which makes it a couple of degrees colder than some of the coastal farms, and provides that little extra bit of wind which helps deter the aphids further.’

Yet while potatoes continue to be a staple crop – Scottish Government figures indicate that 30,000 hectares were turned over to the tuber nationwide in 2013 – wholesale prices for ware potatoes, which make up more than half of the total planted in Angus, have slumped.

It’s a situation that’s forced some of the smaller growers, like Graeme Jarron, to find different ways to maximise their return.

‘Potatoes too small to sell are generally used instead for cattle feed,’ says Jarron, ‘but I wanted to find another use for them.’ Together with Abhishek Banik, a research associate at Heriot-Watt University’s International Centre for Brewing & Distilling, Jarron set about creating a potato-based product that looks set to be among the first of its kind in Scotland – vodka. And it may well be the start of tattie take-up in the spirit

world as other farmers and distillers see the obvious benefits – as is the case with the infant distillery at Arbikie Highland Estate, which is also making potato vodka ahead of its gin and whisky output (see p.21).

Jarron’s Ogilvy Spirits vodka is distilled in purpose-built premises, complete with bonded warehouse, at his family farm at Hatton of Ogilvy, near Glamis, using his own Maris Pipers lifted just metres from the still. ‘It’s the ultimate in low food miles. From soil to bottle, it’s all done right here,’ says Jarron.

‘Only around five per cent of vodka is actually made from potatoes – the vast majority comes from grain,’ Banik explains. ‘But then, we’re purposely not doing anything we “should” do.’

Fermentation, in tanks previously used to make Cadbury’s chocolate, takes around three to five days and leaves them with what looks like mashed potato and, remarkably, smells like banana cheesecake.

It’s then twice distilled, charcoal filtered and then left to mellow for two weeks before bottling. The result is a smooth, sipping vodka that can be served simply over ice. ‘We wanted a spirit that had a creamy, buttery mouthfeel,’ says Banik. ‘One that was true to the taste of the potatoes that Graeme’s family have grown here for over a century.’

■ skea.eu ■ ogilvyspirits.com

> SEED VS WARE For the casual shopper, the distinction between ware and seed crop is not immediately obvious. In simple terms, ware potatoes are what you buy in the shop and put on the table, while seed ones are bred in order to provide growers with the parent tubers for those eating crops.

‘On the face of it, a seed potato is just a potato,’ explains Andrew Skea of Skea Organics. ‘You can peel it and cook it, and it tastes the same. The main difference is that we have grown them specifically, continually monitoring and testing them to ensure they are virus-free.’

Seed potatoes are subject to a strict government certification scheme – they must pass field and follow-up inspections and every batch is traceable thanks to a comprehensive database. It’s an intensive and lengthy process.

‘It usually takes a few generations – around three to four years – to achieve a sufficient volume for supply,’ says Skea.

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Milk & Butter list.co.uk

A Way With the Dairy IMAGES: MARGARET KAY

With UK dairy farming moving towards American-style mega-dairies, Maud Sampson talks to an Angus family business rooted in tradition yet moving with the times our generations on and 100 years later, North Street Dairy remains a local family-run business still at its original site in Forfar. ‘From what we remember, our great-grandfather William Hebenton came to this dairy around 1914 when it was a small croft within Forfar,’ says his great-grandson Hamish Miller who, together with his sister Alison and parents Aileen and Norman, runs the business today.

Key to the success of North Street in an increasingly competitive market has been its ability to adapt to the modern landscape without compromising on taste, by keeping the time from cow to customer to an absolute minimum.

Aileen, who has been working at the dairy for over 60 years and now runs the small onsite shop, remembers a childhood moving cows from their grazing boundaries just outside the town to the milking site each day.

While they no longer keep a herd, the raw milk bought from nearby Baldoukie Farm continues to be processed at North Street – the only dairy between Crieff and Aberdeen still to do this.

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The process involves pasteurising the milk and extracting the cream, leaving behind whole, semiskimmed and skimmed milks that are the very definition of fresh. No product is wasted, and North Street’s speciality is the rich golden butter made with the cream, which is particularly popular at local farmers’ markets.

The dairy has retained its strong family values. As well as supplying local restaurants and businesses – including Saddlers and Milton Haugh Farm Shop – the milk run, once done by the traditional ‘horse and cairt’, prevails today. ‘We have a very loyal customer base in the Forfar, Kirriemuir, Letham and Glamis area who like fresh milk delivered to their doorstop,’ says Hamish.

While milk can be bought in plastic cartons, North Street still offer it in traditional glass pint bottles, which makes for a completely different taste. ‘After a while plastic contaminates milk, so it genuinely tastes nicer from a glass bottle,’ explains Hamish. The dairy reuses the bottles and waste is kept to a minimum, making it a sustainable, and delicious, way to enjoy local milk.

■

northstreetdairy.co.uk

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Apple Juice

Orchard Refreshment

David Pollock finds a local soft drink maker making good use of the windfall from the apple trees of Angus

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stablished in Alloa in 1998, Ella Drinks began by creating their now widely available fruit juice Bouvrage. The intention was to make a drink which tasted as close as possible to fresh Scottish raspberries. Although Bouvrage contains some added sugar and natural flavourings, there is much more fruit and less added sugar than in other similar drinks – a recipe which the makers claim is down to the particular growing conditions found for berries in Scotland.

The relative lack of sun, they say, results in fewer sugars in the fruit, meaning Scottish berries are among the most naturally flavoured in the world.

The quality of Ella Drinks’ juices has been reflected in recent contracts and plaudits, having supplied the 2014 Ryder Cup and won praise from Nick Nairn at the Forth Bridges Festival. Since relocating to a site near Brechin in Angus, married company owners Anne Thomson and John Gallagher have also branched out into blaeberry and strawberry versions of Bouvrage, while a new product, named Angus Apples, was introduced in 2012.

Much of the fruit for Angus Apples has been privately sourced from mature trees within walled gardens around Angus, with some individual trees yielding up to half a ton of fruit. ‘Some of the trees are extremely ancient and their variety is unknown,’ says Thomson.

‘However, they’ve lived in Angus for a very long time, and previously they would just have gone to waste.’

Such has been the success of Angus Apples that Thomson and Gallagher have now also planted their own orchard with seven apple varieties spread across 150 trees, each chosen for a combination of their flavour and their yield. ‘We use a mixture of cooking and dessert apples,’ explains Thomson, ‘and the juice is less sweet than English apple juice.’ As with Bouvrage, the intention with this apple juice is to emphasise the natural characteristics of the fruit rather than how much sugar can be packed into the juice.

■ bouvrage.com

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Name section Forfar Bridies list.co.uk

> ENRICHING ANGUS

To Protect and Serve Angus is a region rich in traditional recipes and trusted techniques that are worth fighting to uphold, as Jo Laidlaw finds out IMAGE: KEITH SMITH

Angus has recently joined the European Network of Regional Culinary Heritage (known as ENRiCH).

Now in its twentieth year, the network began in Sweden and Denmark, with the aim of promoting regional food, artisanal production and distinct culinary traditions to tourists, consumers and retailers.

As the only UK member, the county joins 30 other regions and around 1200 individual businesses across Scandinavia and central Europe.

Membership is already bearing fruit: Angus was asked to work with a number of other regions in a quest for joint funding to create a culinary route, which would help tourists plan their trips round great food and drink experiences.

While it’s early days, there will be opportunities for local producers and food businesses to apply for individual membership, which will increase their access to the European market, both through website traffic and the opportunity to use physical ENRiCH branding for their business.

■ culinary-heritage. com

hether enjoying a slice of Gouda in Glamis or a few Cornish sardines in Carnoustie, it’s important consumers can trust the origin of the food they’re eating.

The European Union’s Protected Food Name scheme aims to help them do just that – rather like a food trademark.

Producers can apply for one of three classifications and approved products are then legally protected, effectively barring competitors from riding on the coat-tails of reputations which, in some cases, have taken hundreds of years to build.

Consumers can then be confident they’re buying the real deal – something unique, traditional, and above all, inherently linked to the geography and cultural and social history of a place.

Recent moves by the EU to shorten what’s often seen as a cumbersome and lengthy process will be welcomed by two groups of local producers hoping to join Arbroath Smokies in the region’s protected hall of fame.

An application to give Forfar bridies Protective Geographical Indication (PGI) status – meaning only bridies produced in or very close to the town could bear

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its name – is currently being assessed by the Union. The application saw fierce rivalries put to one side, with local butchers coming together to decide on a definitive recipe for the delicious savoury shortcrust pastry so beloved of football fans. A spokesperson from Angus Council, who have supported the bid, commented: ‘Forfar folk are proud of their traditional bridie and we all believe it deserves recognition as a quality product with a unique heritage.

PGI status will help us protect and promote the bridie throughout Scotland and beyond.’

At the mouth of the South Esk River, just south of Montrose, the Pullar family are one of the few remaining salmon netting businesses left in Scotland. Their principal catch is Scottish wild salmon, another product which has gained PGI recognition in recent years. Meanwhile, a few miles down the road, a group of Dundonian bakers have high hopes of gaining PGI recognition for Dundee cake, first produced commercially by marmalade manufacturer Janet Keiller, and easily identifiable by its traditional topping of whole blanched almonds.

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Lan Lanark

The leading online guide to the

Food and Drink of Scotland

Independently selected by our award-winning editorial team with over 2,500 entries covering: • cheese makers, smokeries, fruit growers, brewers, distillers, ice-cream makers and more • butchers, bakers, fishmongers, farm shops and farmers’ markets • restaurants, bistros and cafés Geo-coded so you can select places close to where you are and designed for use on smart phones and tablets.

food.list.co.uk the

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GUIDES

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Aberdeen-Angus list.co.uk

A Sign of Good Breeding IMAGES: CATHERINE MACGREGOR/ABERDEEN-ANGUS CATTLE SOCIETY

Angus is intrinsically linked to one of the most famous cattle breeds in the world.

Sandy Neil discovers a famous heritage and an animal that has an important role to play on a global stage ver the centuries, Scotland’s regions have reared, and named, droves of native cattle breeds, such as the Highland, Ayrshire, Shetland, Galloway and Luing. But it’s the Aberdeen-Angus that grew up into the world-famous breed and brand for beef, so prized on the farm and fork it is now the United States’ most common beef breed, and Britain’s second after the continental Limousin.

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The Aberdeen-Angus story began 200 years ago, when pioneer farmer Hugh Watson of Keillor Farm near Dundee started selecting the best of Angus’s native black, hornless (termed ‘polled’) ‘Doddies’ for his new herd. Hugh’s stock was later bought and refined by two progressive Aberdeenshire gentlemen, farmer William McCombie of Tillyfour Farm, and Sir George MacphersonGrant, Laird of Ballindalloch Estate on

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Aberdeen-Angus

the River Spey. Successively, these three north-east experimenters gave the breed its double-barrelled name, and an enduring genetic formula as much, if not more, in demand now as then.

Given the Aberdeen-Angus’s almost embarrassing list of virtues, it’s easy to see why Scottish farmers find it economical to pay on average £5000 for a bull, and £2500 for a cow, at local livestock auctions such as Forfar Mart. Long-lived, placid and motherly by nature, the beasts are easy to calve and rear, with a hardiness to survive diverse and harsh conditions, insulated against the worst weathers by a silky, tufty ‘top-coat’ and a dense, mossy ‘vest’.

But, bottom line, the breed is a commercially astute choice to increase farmers’ profit per hectare, because it’s supremely efficient at converting grass or ‘forage’ into prime beef without supplementary grain. The meat’s quality is a bonus: deep-red flesh marbled with creamy-white fat for succulent, juicy steaks, as popular with the butcher as the consumer, who pays top price for the brand on restaurant menus and supermarket shelves.

However, grass-fed beef is also a matter of sustainability and health, argues Geordie Soutar, a Forfar farmer breeding the original, pure Aberdeen Angus line in its ancestral heartland. ‘The Aberdeen-Angus has a mega, mega role to play in the world,’ he explains. ‘Grain yields have plateaued around the world, yet we need more and more cereals for human consumption. It’s not sustainable to rear high input cattle, or feed them 10kg of grain to get a 2kg gain in live weight. Pigs and poultry need grain, but Aberdeen-Angus cattle don’t – they forage, converting grass into top quality beef. The intra-muscular fat, the marbling, is healthier, unsaturated fat, which melts on cooking and carries the fabulous flavour.

The Americans deem Aberdeen-Angus fit for the “white tablecloth trade” – the crème de la crème.’

Over the years, breeders have crossed the original Aberdeen-Angus with imported bloodlines to create new characteristics.

Now, typically, beef bearing the Aberdeen-

Angus label is 25 to 50 per cent crossed with a faster growing or higher yielding breed. Realising Angus’s pure breed faced extinction, Soutar began a breeding programme in 1995, collecting all eight of the remaining ‘native-bred’ specimens located near his farm, Kingston. Twenty years on, his mission is an international success story, with a thriving business selling cattle semen and embryos as far as Sweden, Estonia and Uruguay, and so many breeding females the bloodline was removed from the rare breeds list in 2012.

‘There’s now a demand worldwide for these genetics,’ Soutar says, ‘to go back to where we were, and what our forbears did.’

‘Angus farmers like Geordie are locked into the history and future of the breed,’ added Ron McHattie, CEO of the Aberdeen-Angus Cattle Society, which welcomes the Aberdeen Angus World Forum to Scotland in 2017. ‘It’s a huge event,’ he says. ‘We’re expecting in excess of 800 delegates, coming to see where it all started.’

Spotting another opportunity, Geordie Soutar plans to harvest Aberdeen-Angus’s popularity to boost local tourism: ‘The more people who make the connection between Angus cattle and Angus county, the more people will make the pilgrimage here.’

■ dunlouiseangus.com ■ aberdeen-angus.co.uk

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Marmalade & Jam list.co.uk

Spreading nicely

Jam and marmalade have a long connection with the berry fields of Angus and wharves of Dundee. Sandy Neil dips into a continuing local success story am originated in the Middle East where cane sugar grows naturally, and the secrets of jammaking came to Europe with returning Crusaders in the Middle Ages. It was the inventive and sweettoothed Scots, however, particularly in and around Angus, who mastered the art and now peddle millions of jam-filled jars back to the wider world.

Fruit and sugar boiled into a thick, sticky staple became extremely popular with Scots, because they could jam any fruit or berry growing in their kailyard or foraged from the wild. Thus seasonal freshness was conserved for the leaner months, in bright, colourful concoctions sparkling like jewels on larder shelves.

Angus’s mild climate and alluvial soils are so ideal for sweet raspberries and strawberries that the red sandstone earth of Strathmore is, along with neighbouring Perthshire, at the heart of Scottish berry country. A soft fruit and jam industry first flourished nearby in Blairgowrie, nicknamed Berry Town, and in Dundee, once famed for its three Js: ‘jam, jute and journalism’.

It was in Dundee 300 years ago that thrifty housewife Janet Keiller turned her jeely pan to making a jam of Seville oranges, too bitter to eat or sell, which her

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husband James had bought cheap from a Spanish ship.

By James’s foolishness, and Janet’s ingenuity, the Keillers invented Dundee’s famously dark marmalade.

The local jam-making traditions are continued by Mackays of Arbroath, the only significant producer of Dundee-style orange marmalade left in the area. All the company’s strawberries, raspberries and blackcurrants are from the berry fields of eastern Scotland, and steamheated on a rolling boil in traditional copper pans for an even heat and set.

The company, founded by the Mackay Brothers in 1938, was bought from United Biscuits by Paul Grant in 1995, when turnover simmered at £250,000 and exports sat solid at zero. Grant made the business race and bubble, clocking up sales worth £17 million in 2013.

Recently he passed the stirring spoon to his son Martin, the new MD of their family firm, which employs 140 staff. That same year, Mackays filled 19 million jars of marmalades, curds and jams infused with champagne and whisky, and sent them to the breakfast tables of 60 countries – including the Middle East, where they’ve taken jams seriously ever since it began.

■ mackays.com

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Edzell

Eating Up Edzell There is a thriving food scene in a village nestling at the foot of Glen Esk near the Aberdeenshire border. Emily Arbuthnott takes a tasting tour

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t is testament to the quality of food and produce on offer, that the village of Edzell can boast three cafés and two hotels all situated along the main street and all doing a roaring trade.

Sharon Greasley, owner of No.63 – a café, florist and gift shop – takes great pride in the three independent coffee shops happily co-existing. ’The Edzell Tweed Warehouse, known as The Tweedie, The Tuck Inn and ourselves all offer something similar but with enough variation that we can retain customers without treading on each other’s toes,’ she explains. ‘We all offer gluten-free options, even dairy-free, and we all make soup using local ingredients. But we all do it differently.’

Bel Forbes, proprietor of Bel’s Butchers who supply all the establishments, appreciates their divergences: ‘No.63’s customers are often after a cup of coffee and cake or a light lunch – it’s a great place to meet friends for a catch-up – while the Tuck Inn caters for those looking for a more substantial hot lunch or meal. I often take my family there for high tea or, if I am feeling lazy, we take-out their fantastic fish and chips. The Tweedie offers

regulars somewhere a little less conspicuous to savour their wholesome lunch – and the sticky toffee pudding there is something to behold.’ The hotels in town also play their part, Forbes says: ‘They cater superbly for their guests or locals looking for an after-work drink or dinner out.’

A flourishing primary school, a golf club and a strong sense of community have helped create regular customers from Edzell residents themselves.

Tourists also greatly benefit from the thriving scene as the village is a perfect pit stop for cyclists and visitors to Glens Lethnot and Esk. Other attractions luring people to the town are the ruins of Edzell Castle and the walks by the river where salmon leap to reach the Rocks of Solitude.

Yet the overriding sense is that the surge of popularity and trade of Edzell’s eateries is due to both their individual and cumulative reputations. They offer good, home-made, local food at reasonable prices and a warm welcome to customers from near or afar.

■ For more on the cafés mentioned, see Where to Eat section from p.33

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Game list.co.uk

Game in the glens The unique habitat of the famous glens in the northern part of Angus is ideal territory for a variety of game, as Keith Smith discovers

hen Dundee-based Highland Game set out to supply venison in the late 1990s, many of their contemporaries in the food industry thought they were foolish to focus on what was then, in Britain, a very niche product. But almost 20 years on, venison has hit the mainstream, thanks in no small part to the dedication of managing director Christian Nissen and his team.

‘Nowadays our venison makes its way to the shelves of virtually all the major retailers, as well as many of the top restaurants in London and elsewhere in the UK,’ Nissen explains. ‘A lot of that venison is sourced from Angus estates, such as Glenprosen, Tulchan, Gannochy and especially Invermark.’

The Angus glens are a fertile area not just for deer, but for game in general, with each of the five glens offering habitats suited to a wide variety of animals. Pheasant, partridge and roe deer can be found on the lower slopes, while the higher ground is ideal for ptarmigan and red deer.

Snipe, woodcock, rabbit, hare and wild duck are all hunted in the region too, while red grouse

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can be found among the heather in the upland moors, especially in Glen Esk which, with no through road, stretches largely unspoilt for almost fifteen miles, making it a secluded spot for game to thrive. So much so, in fact, that game-keeping is now one of the biggest sources of seasonal and permanent employment in the Angus glens.

And just as the popularity of venison has soared, so too has there been a resurgence in game in general, especially in restaurant kitchens. As well as gracing the tables of some of the country’s most renowned restaurants, there are a host of Angus kitchens every bit as eager to make the most of the fresh produce available right on their doorsteps. The Glenisla Hotel in Blairgowrie, for instance, gets its game directly from the Brewlands and Tulchan estates, while the Drovers Inn shares an owner with Glenogil estate. ‘It’s a chef’s dream,’ says head chef Eden Sinclair, ‘as it means we can experiment with different recipes and methods of cooking. Keep it nice and simple – you don’t need to mess around with such good ingredients.’

■ highlandgame.com

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Beer

Ales from Angus Local ale-makers are giving a whole new meaning to the term ‘homebrew’.

Keith Smith finds out more

‘I

don’t watch a lot of telly, put it that way,’ says Colin McIlraith, who spends much of his spare time in his garden shed instead.

That might not seem an unusual way to while away an hour or two, but not many sheds can boast their own micro-brewery. At just 8 foot by 9 foot, Kirrie Ales lays considerable claim to the title of Scotland’s smallest commercial brewer.

A full-time job means that McIlraith is only able to brew for six days a month, with each batch producing between 100 and 150 litres. ‘As much as I can make, people are ready to take it off my hands,’ he says, with the beers, including Thrum’s Best Bitter and Hoppy Daze supplied to a select number of Angus establishments such as the Drovers Inn, the Glenisla Hotel and Kirremuir’s Roods Bar, as well as appearing at local farmers’ markets.

Initially borne out of a pub conversation, the idea rolled around for a couple of years until the opportunity to attend a course with Sunderland’s Brewlab arose. Inspired, McIlraith officially started work on the project in 2012, but it took two more years of hard toil – and the odd sore head – before commercial production began in July 2014. ‘We had a fair few riotous parties along the way, trying

out various recipes on friends and neighbours,’ he recalls fondly.

Originally offering bottle-conditioned ales, demand soon dictated a move into casks, too, and already an expansion is planned for the spring of 2015. While he’s willing to lose the ‘smallest brewery’ tag, McIlraith is adamant the brewery will remain rooted in Kirriemuir. ‘The water here is perfect, and I wouldn’t want to lose such a crucial element to the ales.’

Less than 20 miles away in Kellas, on the outskirts of Dundee, Jim Hughan and Ross Niven have also enjoyed the taste of success with a similar small-scale venture, located in an outbuilding on the side of Hughan’s cottage. In contrast to McIlraith’s Kirrie Ales, MòR Brewing began supplying local pubs with cask rather than bottled ale when they started in 2012. Since then they’ve branched out into the bottle market too, thanks in part to two pairings with Aldi as part of the discount retailer’s Scottish Beer Festival selections, and a distribution deal with Spar to stock their ales, including MòR Please! And MòR Tea Vicar? in around 20 stores across Scotland ■ fb.com/kirrieales ■ morbrewing.co.uk

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Arbroath Smokies list.co.uk

Drifting Smokies

Few Scottish delicacies are as firmly rooted as the Arbroath smokie, yet this famous fish is on the move – be it by mobile smoking barrel or by plane. Malcolm Jack sees an Angus speciality’s reputation spreading both near and very far hen Iain Spink and his mobile smoking barrel are in town, the public tend not to need directions as to where to find him – they just follow the smoke. ‘Organisers are aware that what I do attracts a lot of attention,’ he says, referring to the various food fairs, festivals, Highland games and farmers’ markets he visits on his, as he puts it, ‘unofficial travelling Arbroath smokies roadshow’ yearround. ‘Not only visually, but nasally as well,’ Spink adds. ‘The smell of the burning hardwood logs, it just drifts down the high street, and people stop and sniff and say “oh, market’s on today”.’

A fifth-generation maker of Arbroath smokies – the unique type of lightly smoked haddock that has practically put the Angus town on the map – Spink

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started working full-time in his family’s well-known fish processing business RR Spink and Sons aged just 16. He quit the trade in 2001 after the family business was taken over, opting to instead pursue a degree in Applied Environmental Science. But he couldn’t resist his culinary inheritance, and took up smoking again some years later with a unique twist.

Spink reinvented a traditional technique of fishsmoking, perhaps as old as the Viking-era and certainly traceable back to the nearby small fishing village of Auchmithie – the true home of the smokie. Much as villagers there once did, he smokes his carefully selected salted fish in the open air (weather permitting), using just an old whisky barrel, hardwood logs and hessian sacking. And with a certain added dramatic flair for food

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Arbroath Smokies

theatre, it’s a method that has seen him appear at events from the BBC Good Food Show to music festivals such as T in the Park, between his bread-and-butter weekly rounds of farmers’ markets.

The visual spectacle hasn’t been lost on TV producers, with Spink appearing on shows such as Coast, Jamie’s Great Britain and Rick Stein’s Food Heroes to teach celebrity chefs just how good a smokie can taste cooked in the most wholesome way possible. ‘There’s nothing horrible and artificial in there,’ Spink says, summing up the simple glory of the smokie. ‘All it is is haddock, salt and smoke, over a log fire.’

Spink’s mobile smoking is just one among several ways, conventional and less so, in which the Arbroath smokie business has evolved and flourished since it was awarded PGI (protected geographical indication) status in 2004 – a designation which puts it on a par with Parma ham and champagne. Put simply, any smokie made outwith a five mile radius of Arbroath by law quite simply isn’t an Arbroath smokie (though certain pragmatic exceptions are made for Spink on his travels). With that trading-standards umbrella of protection over their heads, it’s allowed Arbroath fish-smokers to concentrate on ways of promoting not just their product’s inherent qualities, but also its unique cultural and geographical heritage.

Other recent developments in the Arbroath smokies trade have included the creation of the Arbroath Smokie Trail – a free downloadable guide to where visitors to the town can eat and buy the world-renowned fish. ASAP, the Arbroath Smokies Association of Producers, has also been formed – an initiative which has seen five key producers of Arbroath smokies pool their resources, expertise and energies towards cutting the necessary red tape and upping production in order that up to three-quarters of a tonne a week of smokies can be air-freighted to foreign markets in the Middle East and Far East. ‘It’s an old faithful to us, but to foreigners it’ll be a brand new product,’

comments ASAP Chairman Stuart Scott – another lifelong smokies maker, with his company Stuart’s Fresh Fish – of this new horizon for the smokie.

Good news for fish lovers on the other side of the world, then – though they should note that for a taste of smokies at their finest, they need to come to Scotland. Either to Arbroath or, well . . . just follow the smoke. ‘Like most things, Arbroath smokies always taste best as soon as they’re made,’ says Spink. ‘A smokie right out of the fire, right off the stick, served with all its own natural juices in it,’ he enthuses, pausing to savour the thought, ‘it’s just the most sublime thing imaginable.’

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Food Tourism list.co.uk

Agritourism in Action

Angus offers a wealth of agricultural amenities for the region’s residents and visitors. Jay Thundercliffe looks at how the region is leading the way in rural tourism overing a diverse range of farm-based activities, agritourism is anything from an overnight campout to outdoor pursuits, gift shopping and, most naturally, a connection with our food and drink landscape.

There are benefits for everyone. Farmers, sometimes forced to diversify or dwindle, can cushion themselves from the vagaries of global markets and governments can strengthen rural economies while the increased visitors get to enjoy themselves – be active or unwind, eat and drink, and maybe even learn a few things along the way.

One Angus resident keen to spread agritourism is Caroline Millar who runs luxury acommodation the Hideaway Experience from her family farm near Auchterhouse. In 2013 she co-founded Go Rural, an organisation helping businesses to diversify and agritourists to plan itineraries. It also runs campaigns and conferences to persuade the power-wielders that agritourism should be recognised as a growth sector and a focus for tourism strategies.

The Italian ‘agritourismo’ model sets the precedent.

‘Tuscany is the same size as Angus and Aberdeenshire yet has 4000 businesses on farm agritourismos,’ says Millar. ‘That emphasis on diversification now drives food

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exports and plays a key part in the overall tourism output.

With the right support we can harness Scotland’s ample resources and mirror Italy’s success.’

Peel Farm at Lintrathen by Kirriemuir diversified 30 years ago with a coffee shop and now has on-site retail, accommodation and a calendar of events. It is highlighting agritourism’s benefits by spending a year as a monitor farm, welcoming those starting or improving their diversified strands.

‘Scotland’s agritourism industry is a largely untapped resource,’ says Kim Gall, the farm’s business manager (and lecturer in business at Dundee College). ‘We might not guarantee the sunshine that made the Tuscan model so successful, but there’s still an awful lot of unexplored potential here.’

As appetites grow for farm-fresh local produce, so Scotland’s natural larder can shine. ‘Our food and drink offering can play a large part in attracting visitors,’ Gall says. ’At Peel Farm we’ve been looking at ways of better highlighting how we use local producers, and now offer a range of workshops for food lovers – everything from jam-making to gin-infusing – to combine with their stay.’

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goruralscotland.com peelfarm.com

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Spirits

Still Game Arbikie Highland Estate’s new distillery can claim to be the first of a very distinctive brand of operation across Scotland, as David Pollock finds out

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ith a family-run arable farm on site and its own sunken lake providing fresh water, the Arbikie distillery touts itself as the first hand-crafted farm-to-bottle operation seen in Scotland in centuries. Not just whisky either, but white and brown spirits: the farm will grow barley for the whisky, wheat for gin and three types of potato for its own Scottish vodka.

Sited in a spot overlooking Lunan Bay midway between Montrose and Arbroath, the qualities of the salty North Sea air are also claimed to be partly responsible for the flavouring of the products as they’re aged, as well as the fact that all are produced in copper pot stills more familiar to the production of whisky. The company formally launched towards the end of 2014, initially just selling the ultra-premium Arbikie vodka, which is produced using a blend of Maris Piper, King Edward and Cultra potatoes to produce what is being described as a ‘slightly sweet, very creamy and exceptionally smooth’ spirit. Production of whisky and gin will follow in 2015.

Among the four main managers of Arbikie are

the three Stirling brothers, whose family owns the estate: former drinks company boss Iain, brand manager and sometime restaurateur David and accountant John (MD Audrey Ramsay completes the team). They’re also joined by master distiller Kirsty Black, a graduate in biological sciences and the brewing course at Edinburgh’s Heriot Watt University, who worked after graduation at the city’s Caledonian Brewery before being involved in the creation of Pickering’s Gin, which has already become a successful brand in its short life.

For the Stirlings, it was the recognition that the natural resources of Scotland, and indeed their own 2000 acres, could provide top quality raw ingredients, that has inspired the venture.

‘We have embraced the French concept of “terroir”,’ explains Iain Stirling, ‘which describes how the natural elements of a place determine the characteristics of wine, to create exceptional spirits.

We also believe that drinking should be no different from the way we eat with goodness from the ground up, from the fields to bottle.’

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Angus Food Round-up

The food of Angus Looking for a taste of Angus? This round-up by Jay Thundercliffe and Donald Reid introduces you to what’s grown, reared, made and landed in the region Further details on many of the businesses shown in bold can be found in the Where to Buy section starting on page 26, as well as at food.list.co.uk

FRUIT & VEG uch of Angus is given over to fruit, cereal and potato fields, and much of the resulting produce makes its way into the supermarket chains, via conduits like the Abbey Fruit packing plant in Arbroath, which handles the produce from PJ Stirling’s fruit farms near the town. However, farm shops and markets (see p.46) across the region are the best way to find the most local of fruit and veg, freshly harvested from the field.

Myreside Organics brings organic salad leaves, beans, peas and other vegetables and plants to the Forfar and Montrose farmers’ markets between March and October, while through the week Milton Haugh Farm Shop stock their own seasonal produce and Peel Farm also showcases good local products.

You can pick your own berries at Charleton Fruit Farm in July and August. Charleton ia also a good source of asparagus, as is the more famous Eassie Farm (see Chef’s Choice on p.39) which specialises in it (sold from the Pattullo’s farm shop, generally open from late April or early May to June) as well as sea kale, harvested January to March.

Thanks to the previous Angus Orchards Project, fruit trees are blossoming across Angus - look out for apples in season or taste them in Ella Drinks’ Angus Apples product which only uses apples picked in the county (see feature on p.9). Hospitalfield

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Organic

Produce

Enterprise

(H.O.P.E.) Arbroath has a shop selling fruit and veg from their social enterprise garden.

Angus Soft Fruits play a prominent role in soft fruit production – the harvest from their group of growers supplies the Good Natured Fruit range and the wellregarded Ava variety of strawberry, both on supermarket shelves. Angus’s fruit is also vital to preservers throughout the region, from the high-profile Mackays (see feature on p.14) and Mrs Bridges in Arbroath, found on shelves across the UK and abroad, to farm shops and delis stocked with Aberfeldy Oatmeal’s jam range including Sarah Gray’s line, and Isabella’s Preserves. Don’t forget homemade jams by the likes of Norma’s Homemade Preserves, found at farmers’ markets.

BEEF, LAMB, GAME AND OTHER MEAT s the name suggests, there’s no excuse for anything but the finest Aberdeen-Angus beef in Angus. Kingston Farm is the home of the Dunlouise pure breed Aberdeen -Angus herd (see feature on p.12). Angus has a good number of impressive high street butchers who can offer full local traceability, as with Milton Haugh Farm Shop’s shorthorn beef and Peel Farm’s lamb, raised on site.

South Powrie Farm, located just north of Dundee, sell KellyBronze turkeys for Christmas from the farm gate and online. If you like your meat a little wilder, Glenogil Estate harbours roe deer, grouse, partridge and pheasant, shot in season and used by the Drovers Inn in Memus, among others (see feature on p.16). Keep an eye out for in-season game from the glens, carried by numerous butchers across the region.

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Angus Food Round-up

FISH s the first Angus seafood brought to mind, Arbroath smokies are as good a place as any to start when exploring the local produce (see also feature p.18). Smokers around the town are many, but thankfully not wildly varied: although recipes are passed down through generations, quality is consistently high.

Some of the most well known are M & M Smith, Arbroath Fisheries, Alex Spink, Arbroath Smokies Direct, D Spink and Iain Spink, all of which use the traditional methods that have won the smokie Protected Geographical Indication status. Usan Salmon Fisheries, based in Montrose, is one of the last companies in Scotland to ‘bag’ wild salmon and sea trout in nets. Usan smoked salmon is available from their online shop.

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BREAD, CAKES AND CHOCOLATE ell-known bakers Saddler’s and James McLaren in Forfar are where you’ll find the famous bridie (see also p.10). JM Bakery multitasks as high street baker and special occasion cake-maker, while Silla Keyser specialises in made-toorder, often theatrically elaborate cake extravaganzas. Keptie Bakery also does handmade celebration cakes along with their traditional baked goods. For more traditionally home-baked bread, cakes and traybakes, Storm Cakes’ Irene Gow takes a stall at both farmers’ markets in Angus. Aberfeldy Oatmeal has a range of biscuits and shortbread made from their own Scottish oats and flour, stocked in farm shops and delis. Arbroath-based Mrs Bridges also has a biscuit range, as well as ‘old fashioned’ hard-boiled sweets. For more confectionery than you could shake a stick at, Sugar and Spice’s range takes in hard-boiled classics, homemade fudge, gluten, dairy and even sugar-free treats. If you’re in Forfar, pop in to see Johanna Woodhead of 88 Degrees who specialises in artisan truffles and hand-made chocolate bars. In Brechin,

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Carlotta’s Chocolates produce a range of bars, bonbons and cakepops as well as full- and half-day courses in all things chocolate.

DAIRY f you’re looking to buy local, the North Street Dairy (see feature on p.8) in Forfar is the first and only port of call for distinctive Angus dairy. Using milk from farms within a ten mile radius, you can buy it from the dairy, as well as home-made cream and butter, or sign up to the local delivery service. Part ice-cream parlour, part cafébistro, Vissochi’s ice-cream is a popular Kirriemuir treat.

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WHISKY, BEER AND OTHER DRINKS oining the Scottish micro-brewing revolution is Kirrie Ales. Based in a micro-shed in Kirriemuir, their brews can be found at farmers’ markets and a growing number of outlets including the Glenisla Hotel. They join still-youthful MòR Brewing, who only began brewing in 2012 and already have a good flow into local drinking houses (see feature on p.17 for more on these two local brewers).

From the fledgling to the deeply rooted and historic, Brechin’s Glencadam Distillery has been transforming water into non chill-filtered, colour-free whisky for over 185 years. Angus might be a potato region but some locals have decided to make vodka with their tatties instead of eating them. Graeme Jarron’s Ogilvy Spirits (see feature p.6) is vying with Arbikie Highland Estate for a Scottish first, with the latter’s vodka launching as a prelude to further pans plans for gin and whisky production.

Ella Drinks also produce Bouvrage, a range of fruit drinks with a uniquely high percentage of berry content.

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> TATTIE HO Such is the significance of the potato to the rural economy in Angus, it even has its own special celebration, in the shape of Peel Farm’s Tattie Festival.

Now in its third year, the biannual event takes place twice each year in mid-March and midOctober, coinciding with planting and harvesting times, and features a host of spud-centric activities, as Kim Gall, the business manager at Peel Farm, explains. ’As well as providing information about all the different varieties, there’s advice from experts on how to grow your own, and tattie-cooking workshops with tips and tricks from guest chefs.’

The coffee shop menu is given over to a series of potato dishes for the weekend, while local food & drink producers are challenged to come up with recipe variations and paired tastings that best complement the versatile spud. ‘It’s just a great bit of fun – you might even spot me dressed up as Mrs Potato Head,’ says Gall.

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Name section list.co.uk

Map

B951

A90

A926

A94

A90

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Name of section

A90

A935

A90 Lunan bay A932

A933

A92

0 A92

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Where to Buy

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WHERE TO BUY

Hospitalfield Organic Produce Enterprise (H.O.P.E.; page 30)

In addition to the shops listed below, Angus produce can be found at local farmers’ markets (see p.46) or obtained directly from producers featured elsewhere in the guide. Entries are grouped into four geographical areas running roughly north to south in Angus. Within each area entries are sorted alphabetically.

MONTROSE, BRECHIN AND AROUND J Barclay Butcher 90 High Street, Montrose DD10 8JE 01674 672429 Mon–Fri 7.30am–5pm; Sat 7am–4.30pm. Closed Sun

>ONLINE LISTINGS Full write-ups of all venues, with individual location maps and links at each entry, can be found at thelarder.net Accessible on all devices including smartphones and tablets, thelarder.net features additional listings within Angus and search functions for food and drink venues across Scotland.

Bruce Brymer Family Butcher 9 St David Street, Brechin DD9 6EG 01356 624645, brucebrymerbutcher.co.uk Mon–Fri 7am–5pm; Sat 7am–4.45pm. Closed Sun

A family butchers of nearly 30 years’ standing, beef, pork, lamb, game and poultry are all sourced locally and the bacon is dry cured in-house.

Ready meals and pies are prepared and cooked daily on the premises.

The sausage cabinet contains over 15 different varieties and new flavours are created regularly – their pork, apricot and leek sausage is a former winner of the BBC Good Food Guide’s Sausage of the Year. Staff are knowledgable, friendly and helpful.

Charleton Fruit Farm

One of just two traditional butchers operating in Montrose, J Barclay specialises in locally sourced beef, lamb and pork. Located on the High Street, they also produce homemade steak pies and their own-recipe haggis.

Hillside, Montrose DD10 9EW 01674 830226, charleton-farm.co.uk Apr–Jun: Mon–Sun 10.30am– 4.30pm; Jul–Sep: Mon–Sun 9am–5pm; Oct–Dec: 10.30am–4.30pm

Bel’s Butchers

See main entry on p.33

25A High Street, Edzell DD9 7TE 01356 648409 Mon–Fri 7.30am–5pm; Sat 7.30am–4pm. Closed Sun. 39–41 Murray Street, Montrose DD10 8LH 01674 672 777, belsbutchers.co.uk Mon/Tue 5.30am–5.30pm; Wed 5.30am–1.30pm; Thu–Sat 5.30am–5.30pm. Closed Sun.

Bel Forbes opened the Montrose branch of her butcher shops in March 2014 at premises previously run by Watt the Butcher. As with her Edzell shop, Bel’s pies, pâtés, meats and meals are highly regarded and have earned her a loyal and expanding customer base. Her homemade gingerbread and shortbread also attract attention, as does her range of ready meals.

Regular special offers, personable service and dedication to quality produce and local suppliers add to this special butchers.

Nature’s Garden 38–40 Murray Street, Montrose DD10 8LB 01674 671060 Mon/Tue 8am–4pm; Wed 8am– 1pm; Thu–Sat 8am–4pm

Gordon Smith, who took over this greengrocers from Carol-Ann Watt, is passionate about home delivery of locally grown vegetable. Boxes start from £10 with free delivery to Montrose and the surrounding area, and it is proving a popular service.

The shop stocks a good range of local fruit and vegetables, with free-range eggs from Laurencekirk and bread from the Keptie Bakery. Nature’s Garden remains the only outlet in Angus to sell Burdall’s gravy salt and customers still come from Dundee and beyond to purchase it.

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Where to Buy

FORFAR, KIRRIEMUIR & THE GLENS Bertram’s Quality Butchers 13 Bank Street, Kirriemuir DD8 4BE 01575 572116, bertramsbutchers.co.uk Mon–Sat 8am–5pm. Closed Sun.

Bertram’s was established in 1994 by Cliff Bertram. His wide selection of beef, lamb and pork is all Quality Meat Scotland assured, and bought from Inverurie. Poultry is sourced locally, he stocks game from nearby estates, and as an added bonus there’s a small selection of fish and shellfish. His own produce includes over 20 varieties of sausages and burgers, and steak pies ranging from 1/2lb to 3lb. Haggis and puddings, dry-cured bacon and cooked meats are all made on-site. Bertram’s offers a free delivery service within 20 miles of the shop and next day Parcelforce deliveries.

James McLaren and Son • 8 The Cross, Forfar DD8 1BX 01307 462762, mclarenbakers.co.uk • 9 High Street, Kirrimuir DD8 4EY 01575 572964 • 22/26 Market Street, Forfar DD8 3EW 01307 463315 Mon–Wed & Fri 7.45am–4pm; Thu 7.45am–1pm; Sat 7.30am–4pm.

Closed Sun.

If you’re a bridie connoisseur, then this baker is one of two essential destinations in the town to get an authentic version of the local speciality. The McLarens only use steak in their bridies, and they’ve been baking them at the Market Street location since 1893 so they must have perfected the recipe by now. There are cheery faces behind the counter, and enough cakes to keep the Scottish sweet tooth satisfied.

THE LABELS YOU CAN TRUST For guarantees of farm assurance, taste and quality, it has to be Scotch Beef, Scotch Lamb and Specially Selected Pork.

Look out for certified Scotch Butchers Club members throughout this guide by looking for the Scotch rosette.

To find your local member, visit www.scotchbutchersclub.org

To find out more visit www.scotchbeefandlamb.com and www.speciallyselectedpork.co.uk The Angus Larder 27

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Where to Buy

Bertram’s Quality Butchers (page 27)

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James Pirie & Son

North Street Dairy

39 Church Street, Newtyle PH12 8TZ 01828 650301, pirieandson.co.uk Mon–Fri 8am–6pm; Sat 8am–5pm.

Closed Sun.

22 North Street, Forfar DD8 3BJ 01307 463796, northstreetdairy.co.uk Mon–Fri 8am–6pm; Sat 8.30am–2pm.

Closed Sun.

This traditional family-owned butcher shop is famous for its sausages and haggis. All their meat is sourced from within Angus, and they dry-cure their own bacon. They can boast 38 different sausage recipes, up to 16 of which will be in the counter every day, with the likes of pork, pear and black pudding alongside the more conventional. They bake their own fresh bread and pastries at their general store and bakery at 19 North Street, and you can also buy asparagus and fresh berries in season, local eggs, butter, oatcakes and honey. Barbecue and weekend special boxes, breakfast packs for self-catering cottages, luxury hampers and even a catered barbecue with a professional chef are all on offer.

D & A Kennedy 10-12 Castle Street, Forfar DD8 3AD 01307 462118, ewartsbutchers.co.uk Mon–Sat 7am–5pm. Closed Sun

Alan Kennedy would describe his butcher’s businesses D&A Kennedy and James Ewart as founded on two principles: quality and service. These are in evidence when you step into this Forfar shop. There’s an impressive selection of fresh, locally sourced beef, lamb, pork and game on offer, supplemented with other goodies such as asparagus from nearby Eassie farm and free-range eggs from Tillygloom farm in Brechin. The shop is a member of the prestigious Q Guild Group of Butchers and all beef, lamb and pork is bought at Forfar Market from local farms with proven standards in animal welfare and stock husbandry.

Keptie Bakery 16 The Square, Letham DD8 2PZ 01307 818936, keptiebakery.com Mon–Fri 6am–2pm; Sat 6am–3pm.

Closed Sun.

See main entry on p.31

A family business now in its fourth generation, North Street Dairy’s motto is ‘From cow to cuppa in 24 hours,’ and they achieve this by sourcing their milk from nearby Baldoukie farm. The milk also goes into making delightfully creamy butter which has garnered silver and gold awards at the Highland Show. Local producers supply the eggs and potatoes they sell.

AH & HA Pattullo Eassie Farm, by Glamis DD8 1SG 01307 840303 Seasonally Mon–Sun 9am–6pm

Sandy and Heather Pattullo have been growing asparagus and sea kale for almost 30 years, supplying some of Scotland and the UK’s finest restaurants from their specialist farm. Ten acres puts Eassie Farm among the country’s largest asparagus producers, and their crop is one of its most highly prized by restaurateurs and by locals who visit the seasonal farm shop through which Eassie sells half its harvest. Asparagus comes into season between early May and the end of June, and sea kale, most of which goes down to London’s Covent and Borough markets, is harvested from January to March. In Scotland you’ll find it on menus at Gordon’s Restaurant in Angus, the Kitchin in Edinburgh, Perthshire’s Monachyle Mhor and Little’s Restaurant in Blairgowrie.

Peel Farm Courtyard and Farm Shop Lintrathen, by Kirriemuir DD8 5JJ 01575 560205, peelfarm.com Mon–Sun 8am–5pm. Closed Jan. Feb weekends only.

Not far from the Loch of Lintrathen at the foot of Glenisla, Peel Farm is set in the very northwest of the region of Angus and sums up the easy rural charm of the Angus Glens. The collection of farm outbuildings include a coffee shop

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Where to Buy

serving lunches, tea and treats, while the Courtyard gift and craft shop shares space with a well-stocked farm shop featuring the farm’s own rare-breed pork and lamb, as well as Highland beef from Glenisla and various products from Angus, Aberdeenshire, Perthshire and Fife. (See p.38 for more on the Coffee Shop.)

Rennie’s the Butcher 8 East High Street, Forfar DD8 2EG 01307 466614 Mon–Sat 7am–5pm. Closed Sun.

This bright, clean, traditional local butcher shop specialises in meat from the nearby area, especially Aberdeen Angus beef. As well as sourcing meat from their own farm just outside the town, they often buy directly from local farmers to ensure produce is as fresh as possible. Their well-stocked counter includes Stornoway black pudding and bridies from Saddler’s Bakery, for which Rennie’s provide the meat for the filling.

Saddler’s of Forfar 35 East High Street, Forfar DD8 2EL 01307 463282 Mon–Sat 7am–5pm. Closed Sun.

One of two bakers in the town making the Forfar bridie, Saddler’s is a clean, bright bakery shop with cheerful staff offering an impressive array of traditional Scottish cakes and, of course, the famous local pasty. The pleasant café serves up drinks and simple light lunches such as home-made soup and quiche as well as sandwiches made to order.

Small’s Confectionary 82 Castle Street, Forfar DD8 3AA 01307 462404 Mon–Sat 9am–5pm. Closed Sun.

This old-fashioned sweet shop was founded over 50 years ago by current owner Michael Small’s parents – which is why he’s been helping produce the goodies since the age of eight. The Smalls are best known for their tablet, which they send all over the world, even to troops out in Afghanistan. They also produce their own fudge, traybakes,

macaroons, coconut fudge and ice and old-fashioned crispets. During the summer months they also get twice-daily deliveries of strawberries from Benshee Farm near Kirriemuir.

> ANCIENT LARDER

The Star Rock Shop 27–29 The Roods, Kirriemuir DD8 4EZ 01575 572579 Tue–Sat 9.30am–5pm.

Closed Sun/Mon.

If you want to find out what sweet things Queen Mary and Peter Pan author JM Barrie once indulged in, then the Star Rock Shop is a must visit.

Since it opened in 1833, the shop and its most famous sweetie have changed remarkably little. The tempting treat was created nearly 180 years ago by Brechin man David Ferguson as a way of making money after he lost his sight.

Now, after feeding the troops in two world wars and delighting Queen Mary, the recipe is still going strong. And the shop itself is still bursting at the seams with lots of home-made goodies such as tablet, fudge, cream rock, treacle toffee and humbugs.

ARBROATH & AROUND Alex Spink and Sons 24 Seagate, Arbroath DD11 1BJ 01241 879056, arbroathsmokiesonline.co.uk Mon–Fri 8am–4pm.

This family business has been built up since 1977, specialising in producing the famous Arbroath smokies and supplying wholesale fish and an online ordering service. There are now three branches, in Arbroath, as well as Blairgowrie and Lochee. They use oak rather than beech in the smoking process, and sell hot smoked salmon, smoked salmon and hot smoked trout in addition to the popular hot smoked haddock speciality. Iain R Spink prepares his smokies here before taking them to food fairs or farmers’ markets.

The Picts are an enduring mystery. The language is uncertain and their 10th-century disappearance is all a bit foggy. One of the few truths, evidenced from a strong presence in bountiful Angus, is that they knew where the good eating was to be had.

Fertile fields provided barley and oats to feed themselves and the cattle they farmed for dairy and meat. They kept domesticated sheep and pigs, plus wild boar and deer, which the nobles hunted.

Nuts, berries and fungi were foraged, and woodland planted to encourage its fruits. Add in harvests from the teeming waters, beer they brewed and wine they traded and it’s rather an enviable diet – although today’s Angus inhabitants may draw the line at dishes such as stuffed dormice or grilled, sterilised sow’s womb.

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Where to Buy

Saddler’s of Forfar (page 29)

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Arbroath Fisheries

Falconer Family Butcher

5 Seagate, Arbroath DD11 1BJ 01241 872331, arbroath-smokie.co.uk Mon–Thu 9am–6pm; Fri 9am–4pm; Sat 9am–3pm. Closed Sun.

193 High Street, Arbroath DD11 1DY 01241 873696 Mon–Sat 8am–5pm. Closed Sun

With samples of hot smoked haddock and salmon sitting out on the counter for customers to try, it’s soon evident that the smokies at this traditional fish shop and smokery are superb and deserve their great reputation in the town. There is a good selection of other fish on sale, including lemon sole, monkfish tails and halibut, and a wide variety of seafood can be ordered in advance such as lobster and other shellfish. A fish van sells and delivers door-to-door, visiting households as far afield as Pitlochry and Bathgate.

Located on the pedestrianised section of the High Street, Kenneth Falconer’s shop is of the few remaining traditional family butchers in the Arbroath area. He specialises in quality lamb, beef and pork cuts, and also offers a wide selection of flavoured sausages and burgers, as well as bakery goods, all of which are produced on site.

Arbroath Smokies Direct

The famous Fleming steak and gravy pies have been made since 1925. The lamb, beef and pork comes from the Forfar mart, and then is hung for at least two weeks.

The bacon is cured here and the butchery makes its own haggis, sausages, black and white pudding, with a selection of cold meats cooked on the premises. There is an appealingly old-fashioned feel to this butcher’s shop with a separate booth where you pay for your goods.

Ladybridge House, 46 Ladybridge St, Arbroath DD11 1AX 01241 876254, arbroathsmokiesdirect.co.uk Mon–Fri 8am–6pm; Sat 9am–6pm; Sun 10am–6pm

>ONLINE LISTINGS Full write-ups of all venues, with individual location maps and links at each entry, can be found at thelarder.net Accessible on all devices including smartphones and tablets, thelarder.net features additional listings within Angus and search functions for food and drink venues across Scotland.

Stuart and Audrey Scott’s small fish shop close to the harbour sells Arbroath smokies online as well as fresh, smoked and cooked fish and shellfish. Audrey cooks up dishes for the shop including smokie pâté and roasted salmon with a chilli glaze, and Stuart supports the local Rotary Club in their aim to help eradicate polio worldwide by donating a generous percentage of his online sales towards the cause.

E&O Fish East Grimsby, Arbroath DD11 1NX 01241 873574 Mon–Fri 7am–7pm; Sat/Sun 8am–6pm

This fishmonger close to Arbroath harbour offers a consistently wide selection of fresh and smoked seafood, including monkfish, fresh hake, smoked hake, kippers, shellfish and lemon sole.

The shop is always busy, and later openings than most shops mean it is handy for buying something fresh on the way home from work – perhaps one of their good smokies or other hot smoked fish.

CG Fleming 27 West Port, Arbroath DD11 1RF 01241 879119 Mon–Sat 8am–5pm. Closed Sun.

Hospitalfield Organic Produce Enterprise (H.O.P.E.) Hope Garden, Hospitalfield House, Westway, Arbroath DD11 2NH 07963 322457, hopegardentrust.org.uk Mon–Fri 10.30am–3.45pm.

Closed Sat/Sun.

This inspiring kitchen garden owes much to the energy and vision of the founders and the generous rent-free land donated by the trustees of Hospitalfield House. A large variety of vegetables and fruits are grown outside and in polytunnels by the trainees – adults with learning difficulties. Everything is grown organically and it is possible to buy the produce straight from the garden.

The shop’s open during the week (but shuts up for winter), selling tools as well as produce and creating another social and educational opportunity to add to the horticultural experience for the trainees.

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Iain R Spink Original Smokies from Arbroath Forehills Farmhouse, Arbroath DD11 2RH 01241 860303, arbroathsmokies.net

An Arbroath smokie, or even a smoked trout, hot from Iain Spink’s barrel is right up there with any world-class street food. Author of The Arbroath Smokie Bible, he’s an expert on the subject, with celebrity chefs such as Rick Stein, Jamie Oliver and Nigel Slater eager to tap into his knowledge and showcase his produce.

The smoking itself takes place at various food events through the year and at weekly farmers’ markets across the region – look out for upcoming events on his interesting website, and then sniff out the beech and oak smoke on the day.

Keptie Bakery 52 Keptie Street, Arbroath DD11 3AG 01241 873484, keptiebakery.com Mon–Fri 7am–4.30pm; Sat 7am–3pm.

Closed Sun.

Any bakery that boasts ‘the best scone in Scotland’ has got to be worth a closer look. Having won the award in early 2014, the Keptie Bakery has undergone a re-brand to update its shops in Arbroath and Letham. Now describing themselves as ‘craft bakers and confectioners’, owner Jane Eaton is keen to expand on their hand-crafted wedding and celebration cakes to complement the traditional rolls, pies, biscuits and cakes that pack the shops’ display counters. And as for the best scone in Scotland – well, you’ll just have to judge for yourself.

Mackays Ltd James Chalmers Road, Arbroath DD11 3LR 01241 432500, mackays.com Mon–Thu 9am–4.30pm; Fri 9am–3pm.

Closed Sat/Sun.

A manufacturer of marmalades, preserves and curds, and the last commercial marmalade producer in the Dundee area, Mackays uses a traditional slow-boiling method in huge copper pans. Raspberries, strawberries and blackcurrants grown in Angus, Perthshire and Fife go into

the mixed or single fruit preserves, and they produce ginger and champagne marmalades as well as the traditional Dundee variety using Spanish citrus fruit.

Open during the week, the factory shop sells the whole range, including the Mrs Bridges products also made in the factory, and is great for discontinued lines at knockdown prices.

Milton Haugh Farm Shop & The Corn Kist Coffee House Milton Haugh Farm, Carmyllie, By Arbroath DD11 2QS 01241 860579, miltonhaugh.com Mon–Sat 9am–5pm; Sun 10am–5pm.

This well-stocked farm shop near Arbroath sells big sacks of various farm-grown potatoes and other seasonal veg such as carrots, cauliflowers and sprouts. There are imported vegetables as well, plus dry goods and chutneys, and home-made jams, honey and jellies.

Their own-reared Shorthorn Cross beef is available alongside free-range chickens and eggs, and frozen game. The chickens – available usually from Wednesday onwards – are huge and delicious, as is the pâté made from their livers. Milton Haugh is also the home base of Aberfeldy Oatmeal, selling bags of oatmeal, flour, oatcakes and biscuits. They also raise turkeys for the Christmas market.

DH Robertson 7 Fisheracre, Arbroath DD11 1LE 01241 430669 Mon–Sat 7am–5pm. Closed Sun.

There has been a butcher’s shop on this site for over 60 years. Steven Bennett has maintained its good reputation, using traditional recipes for black pudding, haggis and sausages, while improvising with some new flavours, such as his excellent pork, lemon and fennel seed burgers or Irn-Bru and chilli sausages – an approach that has seen him win awards for his innovations. The acclaimed steak pie and haggis are also highly praised medal winners. Meat sold is bought at the Forfar Mart, with the beef hung for 24 days, and the bacon comes from Blairgowrie.

CHEF’S CHOICE HAYLEY WILKES ON MYRESIDE ORGANICS

Angus, from its fields to the sea, is like a giant larder. Everyone knows the about the amazing Arbroath smokies but at the markets you can buy all manner of other local produce from passionate stallholders.

I’m resident chef at the Angus farmers’ Forfar market where I demonstrate dishes and run a kids’ cooking club. I plan the recipes based on what’s in season and in collaboration with the producers.

For instance, Antonia Ineson at Myreside Organics had loads of courgettes recently which I used to make a korma.

I like to use and promote Antonia’s produce because she has a shorter growing season than many other local growers due to being organic.

She always has the most tasty salad leaves, herbs, chards and exotic cabbages.

■ Hayley Wilkes runs WeeCOOK (weecook. co.uk) and is resident chef for Angus Farmers’ Markets (see p.46)

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M&M Smith 22 High Street, Arbroath DD11 1BD 01241 877836, mandmsmithfishmongers.co.uk Mon–Sat 8am–5pm. Closed Sun.

D Spink and Sons Fish Merchants

The inescapable aroma of smoked fish entices you down the High Street, through an alley and into the backyard of a private house to this small fish shop. Here you’ll find a variety of excellent fresh and smoked fish for sale, including of course Arbroath smokies which are smoked on site, as well as delicious fresh haddock and whatever else comes in on the boat that day.

Smithies Deli 16 Keptie Street, Arbroath DD11 1RG 01241 873344, smithiesdeli.co.uk

Mon–Sat 9.30am–4.30am. Closed Sun. See main entry on p.42

D Spink and Sons Fish Merchants 51–53 High Street, Arbroath DD11 1AN 01241 875732, derekspinkandsons.co.uk Mon–Sat 8.30am–5.30pm. Closed Sun.

Housed in purpose-built premises – complete with distinctive ‘smokie’ iron railings – at the back of the family residence, this fish shop includes a closedoff area at the rear where the filleting and smoking takes place. Traditional smokies, prepared over beech shavings and to a secret recipe known only to Derek and his two sons, are available along with a range of fresh and smoked haddock, smoked salmon and shellfish. A second branch in Broughty Ferry, Ferry Fish, opened in 2013.

M&M Spink 10 Marketgate, Arbroath DD11 1AY 01241 875287, arbroathsmokies.co.uk Mon–Sat 8am–6pm; Sun 10am–5pm

When Rick Stein waxes lyrical about an Arbroath smokie, you know it’s likely to be good. Arbroath-based Bill Spink has been producing the hot smoked haddock delicacies since 1965, and has gained wide acclaim – with his hot smoked salmon using fish from Shetland also renowned.

Customers can watch the fish being prepared for smoking and filleting in a backyard shed with a view of the harbour.

The little shop also sells various wet fish such as crab, crayfish tails and lemon sole, plus smokie pâté and fish cakes.

Sugar and Spice 9–13 High Street, Arbroath DD11 1BE 01241 437500, sugarandspiceshop.co.uk Mon–Sat 10am–5pm; Sun noon–6.30pm

Your dentist may not approve, but there are treats galore to be found here, including homemade fudge and nostalgia-inducing sweets like lucky tatties and soor plooms. The restaurant, complete with conservatory and outdoor terrace, serves up hearty portions of soup made with local vegetables, pasta dishes and Arbroath smokies from just down the road prepared in various ways. Teas and coffees are served all day with a choice of teacakes, meringues and tarts. There’s a selection of gifts for sale at the back of the shop, and Arbroath’s smokie tradition is reflected in walls adorned with photographs of fishermen.

CARNOUSTIE, MONIFIETH & AROUND Gather 49 High Street, Carnoustie DD7 6AD 01241 853493, shopandgather.co.uk Mon–Wed & Fri/Sat 9am–5pm; Thu 9am-7pm. Closed Sun.

A welcome new arrival in Carnoustie, this small greengrocer and general store stocks fresh fruit and vegetables, local eggs, storecupboard ingredients, homemade preserves and local honey. The fresh produce shifts with the seasons, with local berries, asparagus and root vegetables appearing from farms around Angus depending on the time of year. Everything is invitingly displayed in open boxes and old furniture, and customers are assured of a warm welcome from owner Bethany Bowles.

The convenient ‘soup in a bag’ concept, containing all the necessary ingredients bar

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water, is popular, and they also deliver veg boxes locally. An online shop is coming soon, and they even stock bird seed and dog biscuits.

James Ewart Ltd 14-16 High Street, Monifieth DD5 4AE 01382 532029, ewartsbutchers.co.uk Mon–Sat 7am–5pm. Closed Sun.

This is a wonderful old-fashioned family butcher where service is friendly and the meat is top quality. Proprietor Alan Kennedy is at Forfar Market every Wednesday to buy his beef and lamb, and the farm sources are listed in the shop window. As well as the hand-cut meat, the incredible selection of sausages are all made in house, and there’s also a wide range of burgers, pies, Forfar bridies and quiches as well as oatcakes and chutneys.

If you’re looking for inspiration, the staff will happily offer cooking advice and recommendations.

JM Bakery 118 High Street, Carnoustie DD7 7EB 01241 859530, jmbakery.co.uk Mon–Fri 7am–5pm; Sat 7am–4pm.

Closed Sun.

Known affectionately as ‘The JM’, this family bakery offers a wide selection of fresh baking, from bread and cakes to the signature Barry Bannocks (oatcakes), plus sausage rolls, pies and sandwiches made using locally sourced meat, fruit and cream. Also look out for their gingery Angus perkins and fresh local eggs. In the same family for over 35 years and now run by husband and wife Mark and Sheila Robb, JM has expanded to include a shop in Monifieth, with its window full of colourful hand-decorated wedding cakes, and the latest outlet in Arbroath’s High Street.

The Speckled Hen Newbigging Farm, Tealing DD4 0QX 01382 380255 Mon–Sat 9am–4.30pm; Sun 10am–4.30pm

See main entry for this café and farm shop on p.44

WHERE TO EAT

> SUGAR WORK

Listings of Angus’ best options for eating out, including daytime cafés, takeaways, casual bistros and formal restaurants. Entries are grouped into four geographical areas running roughly north to south in Angus. Within each area entries are sorted alphabetically

MONTROSE, BRECHIN AND AROUND Brechin Castle Garden Centre Coffee Shop Haughmuir, Brechin DD9 6RL 01356 626813, brechincastlecentre.co.uk Last hot food orders Mon–Fri 2.30pm Sat & Sun 3pm.

Breakfast served 9am–11am

Light and airy, the self-service café in this garden centre is a pleasant place to have a bite, hot drink and a generous sized cake or bake. Regular promotions and its proximity to the A90 mean it is often popular at lunchtimes when substantial meals are served – although there is plenty of space to sit and take in the leafy views. An entertainment table for children, staff that are happy and keen, and local produce in the small shop add to the all-round appeal.

Charleton Fruit Farm Hillside, Montrose DD10 9EW 01674 830226, charleton-farm.co.uk Apr–Jun: Mon–Sun 10.30am–4.30pm; Jul–Sep: Mon–Sun 9am–5pm; Oct–Dec: 10.30am–4.30pm

Although the shop stocks gifts, the main selling point at Charleton is the fruit, vegetables, and preserves that the farm produces, from berries and currants to tree fruit, asparagus and pumpkins. The café is cleverly divided into areas for adults wanting a peaceful light lunch or cake and one more for families with sofas and an inside toy area. This set-up is similar outside with family

Forfar’s Castle Street has seen shops come and go over the last half century, but Small’s Confectionary has remained a permanent fixture since it was opened by the local Small family in 1958.

To help his parents out after school Michael Small started working in the shop aged eight, and remains in charge today (apart from on Saturdays when he faithfully supports Forfar’s football team).

Visiting is a childish delight – jars and containers of almost every sweet imaginable, in all colours, shapes and sizes, line the walls.

Chocolate gingers are a Forfarian favourite, and Michael also sells fudge, macaroons, and his own renowned home-made tablet using his mother’s secret recipe.

As he knows, the sheer variety on offer means that Small’s sells many sweets never found at the supermarket. ‘That’s why we still do what we do. That’s why we’re still here.’

■ See entry on p.29

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seating in an enclosed play area. The café uses much of the produce on the farm, incorporated into seasonal salads, chutneys and preserves or in cakes and puddings – some gluten-free.

Edzell Tweed Warehouse 1 Dunlappie Road, Edzell DD9 7UB 01356 648348 88 Degrees Fine Food Emporium (page 37)

The Tweedie, as it is known locally, has a loyal and established customer base who regularly visit for morning coffee and scones or light lunch. It is tremendously popular with the locals, particularly those who want a peaceful respite and catch-up with friends. The food served is very good, with generous portions, and the coffee shop is worthy of the solid reputation it holds. It is also a great place to shop for a loaf of Bakery Bliss bread, some local eggs and vegetables, or some Devenick Dairy cheese. Isabella’s preserves, among others, also line the shelves.

Glenesk Retreat Tarfside, Glenesk DD9 7YT 01356 648070, gleneskretreat.co.uk Mon–Sun 10am–6pm (generally closed late Oct–March)

>ONLINE LISTINGS Full write-ups of all venues, with individual location maps and links at each entry, can be found at thelarder.net Accessible on all devices including smartphones and tablets, thelarder.net features additional listings within Angus and search functions for food and drink venues across Scotland.

To reach The Glenesk Retreat you have either traversed miles of stunning scenery on foot, on bicycle or by car and the restaurant won’t disappoint in offering you replenishment for your efforts. A vibrant room, with friendly staff and can-do attitude, offers a positive experience from start to finish. A specials menu has an array of dishes from carrot and coriander nut loaf to Invermark venison alongside the standard light lunch offerings. The homemade relish that accompanies the beef burgers is worthy of note. The children’s menu is fairly standard with options such as chicken or fish and chips but it is freshly made and solid fuel for all the activities there are at the Retreat for small people to do. The restaurant is licensed and set menus are often created to complement the variety of event nights. Steak and grill Saturday nights and the Sunday lunchtime roasts are enormously popular

and booking is advisable. It is usually closed during the winter months.

Links Hotel Mid Links, Montrose DD10 8RL 01674 671000, linkshotel.com Koffiehuis: Mon–Sat 10am–5pm.

Closed Sun. Restaurant: Mon–Sun noon–2.30pm, 6pm–9pm (Sat 6pm–9.30pm)

Despite the slightly out-dated décor of the restaurant, the food is surprisingly superb and great value for money, with fresh ingredients and well-seasoned Scottish dishes such as Aberdeen-Angus steaks, venison and salmon. Staff are attentive without being invasive, and will accommodate dietary requirements with minimum fuss. If you are looking for a more contemporary venue for lunch then the hotel’s child-friendly Koffiehuis is the answer. With its relaxed and comfortable atmosphere, sandwiches, lunches and cakes are beautifully presented and immensely satisfying.

There is a carv in the restaurant every Sunday, which has a great reputation.

Madisons 79 High Street, Montrose DD10 8QY 01674 678432, madisonscafe.co.uk Mon–Sat 8am–5pm. Closed Sun.

Madisons is an independent coffee shop where service is fast and friendly and the atmosphere often bustles, spilling into the outside seating in good weather.

As with other high street cafés, it’s ideal for a drink and a snack either eaten in or taken out, with breakfasts, soups, sandwiches and cakes on offer. Their outlets in the Montrose and Carnoustie leisure centres work on the same lines but on a smaller scale, with requisite favourites crisps and ice-cream.

Mum’s of Montrose Tea Rooms 121 High Street, Montrose DD10 8AL 07954 266458 Mon–Sat 10am–4pm. Closed Sun.

Owner Jane Watson prides herself on running a traditional, old-fashioned café. Tea is served in patterned china

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cups on saucers, portions and prices are fair, and it is usually the owner herself welcoming and serving customers.

Dietary requirements are catered for with a gluten-free cake option usually available, such as banana bread or apple and cinnamon cake. There is also a sense of community in offers such as secondary school specials to pupils from the Academy.

hot smoked salmon feature on the menu, which has an Italian flavour alongside the likes of steak, lamb and bar classics such as scampi and steak pie. The staff are impressively accommodating of children, providing pens and paper and making a meal-out for families a positive experience without disrupting fellow diners.

No. 63 Northern Hotel 2 Clerk Street, Brechin DD9 6AE 01356 625400, northern-hotel.co.uk Mon–Fri noon–2pm, 5–8.45pm; Sat & Sun noon–3pm, 5–7.45pm

Efficient and friendly service with a good range of daily specials, the Northern Hotel’s Baillie Restaurant, is popular with locals looking for light lunches and offers a comfortable dining experience, through to more substantial dinner, that is good value for money. Locally sourced produce such as haddock and

63 High Street, Edzell DD9 7TA 01356 648285, no63highstreet.co.uk Mon–Sat 8am–5pm; Sun 10am–4pm

It is almost impossible to go into No. 63 and not purchase something. The floristry at the front means visitors are greeted with the stunning scent of seasonal flowers before taking a seat in the café where local art and crafts adorn the walls and shelves, plus toys and books for children are available. Cakes made by owner Sharon Greasley and her friendly staff cover the counter and

Good Food and Drink in Dundee Angus wraps around the city of Dundee, the local source of produce used by a number of the city’s better chefs. Here’s a round up of the some of the places to visit if you’re venturing into the city itself The dining out options in Dundee are growing all the time, in both number and quality. The Playwright (11 Tay Square) serves some of Dundee’s most inventive fine dining, with prices to match, and a huge wine selection. The two-star AA rosette Castlehill Restaurant (22–26 Exchange Street) offers exceptional Scottish food on its well-priced lunch menu and à la carte.

For a more casual meal, but with no less a focus on quality local ingredients, try The D’arcy Thompson (21–23 Old Hawkhill), a buzzing bistro that has quickly become a city highlight. Avery & Co (34 South Tay Street) serves from breakfast through to dinner in its bright, modern and welcoming diner. For a slice of homely homemade cake and a coffee, T Ann Cake (27 Exchange Street) offers light meals and fabulous bakes in a quirky compact space.

The Playwright

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there are usually dairy-free and glutenfree options. The vegetable cakes such as lemon and courgette are immensely popular and bought by customers eating-in and taking-out, and the coffee is highly regarded. The café is popular with local residents, and parents often congregate after drop-off at the local primary school.

Gordon’s Restaurant (page 41)

Paula’s at the House of Farnell The Old School, Farnell, Brechin DD9 6UH 01674 820717, houseoffarnell.co.uk Mon–Sun 10am–4.30pm (Closed late Aug–Sep).

The smells of cinnamon and nutmeg entice you in to this cosy café and gift shop. Although slightly off the well-worn track, it is well worth a visit. If you are going to lunch on their sandwiches made with Danish bread, soups or sweet treats, arrive slightly early as a first come–first served system is in place. There is an open book where you can add your name to a waiting list and then purvey the grotto-like shop of gifts until your table is available. A good children’s menu means the kids are as happy as the adults with the satisfying savouries and excellent pastries. The coffee and hot chocolate are also of a high standard and can be taken away.

Rosie’s Bakehouse 26 High Street, Brechin DD9 6ER 01356 625254 Mon–Sat 9am–4.30pm. Closed Sun (except first Sun of the month, 10am–3pm).

The bustle in this wonderful independent café is not just down to the number of customers but also to endless energy of proprietor Rosie Farquhar who is more often than not bursting in and out of the kitchen where she is busy cooking a delicious quiche or soup of the day. Everything is freshly made on the premises depending on what is fresh in and what Rosie feels like creating.

She is very proud of her café and is tremendously loyal to local producers

and suppliers from Brechin and slightly further afield. The café is open on the first Sunday of every month for Rosie’s almost iconic brunch – booking is advisable for this to avoid disappointment. Gluten-free and vegetarian options are available daily.

The Tuck Inn 44 High Street, Edzell DD9 7TA 01356 648262, tuckinnedzell.co.uk Mon–Sun 11am–7.30pm

While the queues for the tasty take-out fish and chips that run along the side of The Tuck Inn attract grown-ups, the protruding plastic ice-cream cornet lures the children keen for a cone and some scoops of Rizza’s of Huntly. The café is particularly popular in the evening where the children’s meal deal of £5.25 and an adult’s main course averaging £6 means the family can be fed well and for a reasonable price. Daily specials such as Bel’s burger with haggis are written up on an external board and posted on Facebook. Takeaway light lunch options include bacon rolls, baked potatoes and panini with a variety of standard fillings.

FORFAR, KIRRIEMUIR & THE GLENS The Auld Surgery Tearoom 17 Bank Street, Kirriemuir DD8 4BE 07840 392005 Mon–Sat 9.30am–4.30pm.

Closed Sun.

If you’re looking for a light lunch such as a panini or a baked potato and a tasty cake to follow then the Auld Surgery in the centre of Kirriemuir is ideal.

Although it would be a struggle to fit in groups larger than four, there are two attractive outside tables – a rare option in these parts. Owner Karen Duncan prides herself on catering to those with special dietary requirements, and as everything is homemade, she tries to makes sure there are always gluten and dairy-free options available. Plus within is a tiny gift shop stocking scented candles and a line of painted furniture.

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Chapelbank Hotel 69 East High Street, Forfar DD8 2EP 01307 463151, chapelbankhotel.co.uk Mon–Sat 9am–8.45pm; Sun 9am–7.30pm

Chapelbank Hotel in Forfar describes itself as a boutique hotel and, in local terms at least, offers a stylish bed for the night in one of four bedrooms with attractive mod-cons including WiFi and a wide-screen telly. The restaurant uses local produce where possible, such as local speciality Abroath smokies for breakfast, and takes a contemporary approach with Indian crab cakes and ginger and orange marinaded pork on offer.

Set lunch menus (at £7.95 for two courses), an early dining hour (MonThu 5-6pm) and an al fresco eating space add to the appeal.

The Drovers Inn Memus, By Forfar DD8 3TY 01307 860322, the-drovers.com Mon–Fri noon–2.30pm, 5.30–9pm; Sat noon–2.30pm, 5.30–9.30pm; Sun 12.30–7.30pm.

The Drovers has gone from strength to strength since Edinburgh chef Eden Sinclair took over the dining pub three years ago. Its stunning rural setting in Memus at the foot of the Angus Glens is matched by the top notch food on offer. The menu includes starters of seared scallops with cauliflower purée and duck breast sitting on black pudding.

Where possible local produce is used: grouse and venison steak come from the nearby Glenogil Estate, pork from Glenqueich and seasonal vegetables from a Victorian walled garden near Blairgowrie. And if any more proof that The Drovers is worth the drive is needed, then it is quite literally in the pudding, with generous portions of crème brûlée and shortbread or sticky toffee. The décor is country-chic, with stag heads hanging next to old maps on

freshly painted walls. You can choose between eating in the restaurant or bar (where dogs are welcome), but feel safe in the knowledge that there’s no compromise in standards, with the young staff friendly and accommodating wherever you’re sitting. Tuesday Steak Night and Fish Fridays offer great-value dining, and there are regular wine evenings and chocolate workshops on offer too.

88 Degrees Fine Food Emporium • 11 West High Street, Forfar DD8 2EL 07449 343099 Wed–Fri 9am–3pm. Sat 9am–4pm; Sun 10am–3pm. Closed Mon/Tue. • 17 High Street, Kirriemiur, DD8 4BA 07449 345089 Wed–Fri 9.30am–5pm; Sat 9.30am–4.30pm; Sun 10am–4pm.

Closed Mon/Tue.

Coffee, cakes, and chocolate. It’s a pretty winning combination, and one that Johanna and Philip Whitehead have down to a fine art at this café named after the perfect espresso temperature. The coffee is customroast by Dundee’s James Aimer, while the homemade cakes, like the dense, luscious double chocolate brownie, could tempt even the most steadfast of dieters. And that’s before you catch sight of Johanna’s awardwinning hand-made chocolates and truffles at the Kirriemuir branch. For something less indulgent (but no less tasty) there’s a host of interesting freshly made salad options, as well as soups and quiches which all change daily, and most of which is sourced from local suppliers, including Bertram’s and Tillygloom Farm. The Forfar branch may be slightly smaller, and lack the lure of the artisan chocolates and truffles, but it still offers up a mean coffee and cracking cakes, both every bit as good, with a similar selection of lunch options.

CHEF’S CHOICE MICHAEL PATTERSON ON ARBROATH SMOKIES

Angus has a wealth of fine produce, allowing us to source most of our ingredients locally, whether it be top-quality meat from our butcher DH Robertsons or the freshest vegetables and dairy from Turriff’s of Montrose.

But being based in the fishing town of Arbroath we are especially proud of the fresh seafood available, particularly our Arbroath smokies, which come from our fishmonger Stuart’s just a short walk from the restaurant.

The famous smokie plays such a large part in Arbroath’s heritage that it would be foolish not to feature it on our menus. It can be a fiddly and messy job removing the fish from the bones but when a customer raves about one of our smokie dishes, it makes all that hard work worthwhile.

■ Michael Patterson is head chef at Webmor’s, Arbroath (see p.42).

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The Auld Surgery Tearoom (page 36)

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Finavon Hotel and Café

Glenisla Hotel

Finavon, Forfar DD8 3QD 01307 850234, finavonhotel.co.uk Café: Mon–Fri 7.30am–5.30pm; Sat/Sun 8.30am–5.30pm; Bar/ restaurant: Mon–Sun noon–9pm.

Kirkton Of Glenisla, Blairgowrie PH11 8PH 01575 582223, glenisla-hotel.com Mon–Sun noon–8.30pm.

The owners of the Finavon hotel have a background in farming so use some of their own produce from a walled garden for the hotel’s fruit and vegetable supplies. Much of the food is sourced in Angus and goes into lunch and dinner menus that cater for all tastes, whether in the café, bar/ restaurant or in the beer garden. All the sandwiches are freshly made to order, and the café staff will gladly rustle up a tasty bacon roll and coffee for any passing motorist.

Glen Clova Hotel Glen Clova,

by Kirriemuir DD8 4QS 01575 550350, clova.com Mon–Sun noon–8pm.

>ONLINE LISTINGS Full write-ups of all venues, with individual location maps and links at each entry, can be found at thelarder.net Accessible on all devices including smartphones and tablets, thelarder.net features additional listings within Angus and search functions for food and drink venues across Scotland.

The Glen Clova hotel is not only in a spectacular spot, a long way up one of the beguiling Angus Glens, but in terms of food, it makes the most of its wonderful rural location. From field or hill to plate, many of their ingredients are locally sourced, such as Angus beef and venison, some of it from the owner’s own farm, including their Rooster potatoes. Steak pie, pizzas, venison sausages, juicy steaks done on a Josper grill, and home-made pâté and chutneys are all made from scratch. With a bistro, a conservatory dining room for families and a cosy climbing bar for those just off the hill, it’s an attractive destination for a whole range of people.

Glenesk Retreat Tarfside, Glenesk DD9 7YT 01356 648070, gleneskretreat.co.uk Mon–Sun 10am–6pm (generally closed late Oct–March)

See main entry on p.34

Having taken over the reins in early 2014, husband-and-wife team Alan and Clare Bell have set about revitalising this former coaching inn. There’s a fine selection of real ales, including nearby micro-brewery Kirrie Ales, and a real focus on local foodstuffs too; game from neighbouring Brewlands and Tulchan estates features prominently on the menu, with other meat supplied by Scott Bros, all supplemented by vegetables from Myreside Organics and Balharry Walled Garden. The couple have ambitious plans for 2015, including transforming the function room into a purpose-built kitchen and restaurant space and creating a double-sided bar. The six en-suite guest rooms will also undergo a revamp.

Murton Farm Tearoom Arbroath Road, Forfar DD8 2RZ 01307 466041, murtonwildlife.org.uk Mon & Wed–Sun 10am–3.30pm.

Closed Tue.

The owners of this farm tearoom in a 70-acre nature reserve like to describe themselves as providing wind-powered food as all their power comes from an on-site windmill at this pretty spot for a snack. They make all their light lunches and home-bakes in their kitchen behind the counter and, with a visitor’s farm, they welcome children with open arms, providing farm trails, animals to meet and a calendar of events.

Peel Farm Coffee Shop Lintrathen, Kirriemuir 01575 560205, peelfarm.com Mon–Sun 10am–5pm (Jan/Feb open weekends only).

The original business at Peel, set up 30 years ago by Frances Fleming, the coffee shop retains its country kitchen feel with flagstone floors, walls busy with local pictures and wartime-style notices, and a menu packed with traditional lunchtime favourites and generously sized cakes.

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These are all made on site each day, along with soup, bread and Peel Pies, which can have either savoury or sweet fillings including local venison, beef and vegetables. While it’s clearly a run-in-thecountry sort of place appealing mostly to an older clientele, there’s a climbing frame and farm animals for the kids, retail distractions and an easy mile-long walk along to the Reekie Linn waterfall, as well as various events happening down on the farm.

Queen Street Tavern 45–53 Queen Street, Forfar DD8 3AL 01307 462722, queenstreettavern.co.uk Mon–Thu noon–3pm; Fri/Sat noon– 8.30pm; Sun noon–6.30pm

There are some people in Forfar who say there is only one place to get a meat pie if you want the best in town and that is at the Queen Street Tavern. Famous for their much-praised homemade steak pie, this very traditional pub has been opening its doors since the 1900s and is still a big draw for the locals, serving bar snacks and more substantial pub favourites in the restaurant area – all at good-value prices.

The Stag 142–144 Castle Street, Forfar DD8 3HX 01307 468564, thestagforfar.co.uk Café: Mon–Sat 9am–4.30pm; Sun 11am–4pm; Bar: Mon–Sat noon– 2.30pm; 5–9pm; Sun 12.30–8.30pm.

The Stag restaurant and café is housed in what used to be nearby Glamis Castle’s estate shooting lodge, making it a historic spot for a bite to eat. The owner today was a farmer before he went into the restaurant trade and prides himself in growing as much of the restaurant’s fruit, vegetables and salad as possible. The café is upstairs and has been recently renovated, giving it a pleasant open feel.

If you want a freshly prepared light lunch using some extremely local ingredients and a range of baked goods, including gluten-free brownies, then this is a worthwhile stopping point.

10 Cafe Bar The Cross, Forfar DD8 3AD 01307 463004 Mon–Thu 11am–midnight; Fri/Sat 9.30–1am; Sun 12.30pm–midnight.

Alan and Caroline Hampton opened their 10 Downing Street-themed bar on, naturally, the 10 October 2010.

From the royal crest in the fireplace, reclaimed from Harrods, to the loos marked Thatcher and Churchill, they’ve taken a theme and run the distance with it, having a lot of fun on the way, and recently expanding upstairs with The Cabinet Rooms. If the decor’s lighthearted, they’re serious about the drinks: imaginative spirits include Edinburgh Gin’s flavoured offerings and Cîroc vodka. They also do coffee and cakes, for those without Churchill’s capacity for a dram.

Trumperton Forge Tearoom Letham, Forfar DD8 2PA 01307 818325 Tue–Sun noon–5pm. Closed Mon.

This tearoom is a good venue for families and children as it provides well cooked, home-grown, simple food for daytime lunches in a fantastic rural location with a designated children’s play area, and good outdoor seating. There are also goats, donkeys, ducks and hens to visit and a small selection of local crafts for sale.

Visocchi’s Café 37 High Street, Kirriemuir DD8 4EG 01575 572115, visocchiscoffeeshop.co.uk Mon–Sun 9am–9pm

The current owners, who took over from the Vissochi family sold up in 2009, have recently refurbed this Kirriemuir favourite and created a charming Italian-style café and bistro, now serving evening meals with a good selection of pizzas and pastas. The ice-cream made here, based on an original recipe brought over from Italy in the 1930s, remains popular locally, with an array of 20 flavours including Italian cookie, ‘Bilberry Bliss’ or even a Peter Pan special (pineapple and marshmallow).

CHEF’S CHOICE GARRY WATSON ON EASSIE FARM ASPARAGUS

The asparagus season in Scotland is just six weeks, from early May until mid June, and the flavour of the local asparagus can’t be matched by out-ofseason spears from abroad. Scotland’s climate is ideal for cultivation, but the skill of growing takes years to perfect.

At Eassie Farm near Glamis, Sandy Pattullo’s family business produces world-class asparagus known for its lighter green colour, tender stalk and delicate flavour. I’m always amazed by the care given to each and every spear. Chefs all over the UK request Eassie asparagus, with large amounts going to top London restaurants and markets. I’m so fortunate to have it picked and served in my restaurant on the same day.

■ Garry Watson is head chef at Gordon’s Restaurant, Inverkeilor (see p.41)

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The Stag (page 39)

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ARBROATH & AROUND

service that is organised and slick, you won’t be kept waiting too long.

But ‘n’ Ben

The Corn Kist Coffee House

Ethie Street, Auchmithie,

by Arbroath DD11 5SQ 01241 877223, butnbenauchmithie.co.uk Mon & Wed–Sat noon–2pm, 6–9pm; Sun noon–2pm, high tea: 4–6.30pm.

Closed Tue.

Milton Haugh Farm, Carmyllie,

By Arbroath 01241 860579, miltonhaugh.com Mon–Sun 10am–4pm

In a long, low cottage in the old fishing village of Auchmithie, this secondgeneration family-run restaurant has been popular with locals and visitors for nearly 40 years, especially after a bracing walk along the sea cliffs. The successful formula of seafood, beef and game presented either very simply or in hearty sauces has held its appeal over the years, as has the sweet trolley stacked with traditional fruit pies, crumbles and cakes. The oysters, crabs and lobsters (when available) are always good, and in the winter the craving for comfort food is met by Arbroath smokie soup, and game pie with plentiful seasonal vegetables.

The décor is unpretentious, with plain wooden tables and chairs, though there is a comfortable area by the bar for pre- or post-dinner drinks. Chef Angus Horn cooks with local seafood whenever possible, and sources his game and beef from Dundee.

Located alongside the Milton Haugh Farm Shop, serving lunch staples – soups, baked potatoes, quiches, as well as coffee and lots of cakes. See main entry on p.31 for more details.

Darling’s Coffee Shop 134 High Street, Arbroath DD11 1HN 01241 238375, enable.org.uk Mon–Sat 8.30am–4pm.

Sun 11.30am–4pm

A successful social enterprise in the heart of Arbroath, Darling’s is managed by Enable Scotland and funded by The Big Lottery. The coffee shop doubles as a training centre for adults with learning difficulties, who are taught over 16 weeks to prepare and cook food as well as working front of house, learning skills that will set them up for employment elsewhere. Breakfasts, light lunches and afternoon tea utilise local ingredients, such as in their smokie specials.

Homemade cakes with tea and coffee are served all day.

56 The Cairnie Chip Shop 20 Cairnie Street, Arbroath DD11 3BJ 01241 873203, cairniechipshop.co.uk Tue–Fri 4–8pm; Sat 4–7pm.

Closed Sun/Mon.

Esk Building, Dundee and Angus College, Keptie Road, Arbroath DD11 3AE 01241 432612, dundeeandangus.ac.uk Mon/Tue noon–1.45pm; Wed 6–8.45pm; Fri noon–1.45m

A family-run business, passed down from father to son, the Cairnie Chip Shop and the Orsi family have served the local community with freshly cooked haddock and chips for over 50 years. The fish is fried in beef dripping and the batter is crisp and light, enveloping fish that is consistently fresh. The Orsis pride themselves on being a traditional chippie serving up food that is freshly cooked to order and to taste – whether you like it small or large, soft or crisp – and with

The training restaurant and cafe for hospitality students at Dundee and Angus College, 56 is open three lunchtimes each week and one evening. It’s open to the public during term time and offers valuable practical experience for students both in the kitchen and front of house as they learn about all aspects of menu planning, sourcing, costing, preparation, cooking and service. Lunch generally offers three choices at each course, while the evening set menu has three

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courses plus an amuse bouche, petit fours and coffee for £15. The restaurant is unlicensed and BYOB (no charge) is available in the evening. Bookings at lunchtime are recommended but essential for evening meals.

Gordon’s Restaurant Main Street, Inverkeilor,

by Arbroath DD11 5RN 01241 830364, gordonsrestaurant.co.uk Wed–Fri 12.30–1.30pm, 7–8.30pm; Tue & Sat 7–8.30pm; Sun 12.30– 1.30pm. Closed Mon.

quality ingredients. The space is well lit, decorated in off-white with comfortable blue chairs, natural wood floors and tables, with an appealing seaside feel to the venue. The menus are inventive and flexible with an emphasis on local ingredients – ranging from the famous Arbroath smokie to quality fish suppers and a range of burgers. The menu is bolstered by blackboard specials with lunch deals available, flexible enough for a light bite or something more lavish such as fillet steak with all the trimmings and sticky toffee pudding.

Over more than 25 years the Watson family -- Maria front of house, with Gordon and their son Garry in the kitchen -- have built a reputation for their seriously good food. The intimate dining room features exposed stone, wooden beams and a wood-burning stove, with wallpaper by Timorous Beasties adding a contemporary touch. The stage is set for fine dining with white tablecloths covering the well-spaced tables, and set menus offering a selection of dishes with inventive combinations. Think ham hock, guinea fowl and prune mosaic served with pickled girolles and bacon brioche, or a roasted breast of quail with celeriac, apple and beetroot jus. A touch of adventure appears in main dishes such as fennelcrusted monkfish, spiced cous cous, mussel beignets and curry dressing, while a more traditional roast duck comes with rich cabbage cider fondant and a peppered honey jus. The cheeseboard reflects the strength of Scottish artisanal cheese, and desserts are at the same time light and intense. This is a place for serious food appreciation with everything cooked, presented and served with care.

Lunan Bay Diner

Harbourside Grill

Pauline Mustard took over the premises of former Catardi’s café in summer 2014, keeping the Italian flavour and adding plenty of home-baking. Originally from Montrose, Mustard is running her first venture after gaining professional cooking qualifications from Dundee and Angus College. Everything on the good-value menu at this modern café-bistro is

61 Ladybridge Street, Arbroath DD11 1AX 01241 878104, harboursidegrill.co.uk Wed–Sat noon–9.30pm; Sun 12.30– 7pm. Closed Mon/Tue.

Coming under new ownership in mid 2013, this restaurant continues to specialise in seafood and steaks using

Lunan Farm, Lunan Bay, Arbroath DD11 5ST 01241 830506, lunanfarms.co.uk Mon Tue Thu–Sun 9am–5pm; closed Wed.

Open since June 2012, Lunan Bay serves up hot breakfast rolls, soups, sandwiches and burgers, as well as diner favourites like milkshakes and pancakes.

All produce is bought locally and from farms with high welfare standards – so the chowder is made with local smokies and the burgers and sausages are ethically sound. There’s a casual, surf-shack feel to the place, which has become popular with local dog walkers who come here to retreat from the elements with a cup of coffee and some homemade cake. The lovely view out across the sand dunes is made even better on days when the weather is clement enough to sit outside.

Missy Mustards 21 Commerce Street, Arbroath DD11 1NA 01241 877233 Tue–Thu 10am–4pm; Fri/Sat 10am– 4pm, 5–9pm. Closed Sun/Mon.

CHEF’S CHOICE ROSIE FARQUHAR ON LOCAL MEAT AND VEG

My tagline is ‘creating daily on the premises’.

I don’t use a hard and fast menu but rather make soups and specials depending on what local produce is fresh and available, and take it from there.

All the meat I use is supplied by Bruce Brymer in Brechin.

They’ve been going for over 20 years and supply top-quality meat sourced from Angus and north-east Scotland. We use them for everything, from their beef from Forfar Mart to their black pudding, sausages and bacon.

We don’t always have the ability to hike prices for the best artisan produce, so I’m lucky that some local gardeners bring in home-grown produce. We get everything from golden beetroot and carrots to courgettes, apples and fresh herbs – it all goes in to the day’s creations.

■ Rosie Farquhar owns Rosie’s Bakehouse, Brechin (see p.36).

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cooked from scratch, from panini and light bites, to bruschetta, various pasta dishes (including gluten-free versions), risottos and plenty of sweet stuff from cheesecakes and tarts to tiramisù and scones. The café opens late at weekends for dinner (BYOB for £3 corkage) and plans are afoot to open for the occasional Sunday lunch.

Chapelbank Hotel (page 37)

The Old Boatyard Fishmarket Quay, Arbroath DD11 1PS 01241 879995, oldboatyard.co.uk Mon–Sun 10.30am–8.30pm

The interior of this seafood restaurant is light and airy with a white panelled ceiling reminiscent of a boat, and there are nautical decorations adding to the salty vibe. The decked area is reached through the restaurant and overlooks the open sea and harbour. There is a goodvalue lunch menu with starters such as crab and coriander tart, and haddock and chips for main course. Lighter meals and sandwiches, cakes, tea, and coffee are available during the day. The evening menu is mainly fish with dishes such as pasta and pan-fried fish, although steak, chicken, duck dishes make an appearance.

Desserts include tiramisù, fruit tart, and home-made ice-cream sundaes.

Smithies Deli 16 Keptie Street, Arbroath DD11 1RG 01241 873344, smithiesdeli.co.uk Mon–Sat 9.30am–4.30pm. Closed Sun.

Now in its fifteenth year, this thriving deli and café attracts customers who come for the wonderful selection of Scottish and European cheeses, savoury nibbles and admirable array of wine and locally produced gin, mead and whisky.

Delicious deli sandwiches, quiches and salads are the order of the day, and the home-made cakes are a real draw, as is the tranquil atmosphere. Popular themed evenings are held once a month, with dinner prepared by a guest chef.

Originally a Thomas Lipton grocery shop, the interior features original tiles forming a graceful pattern of thistles and shamrocks – representing Lipton’s Irish ancestry and his Scottish upbringing.

Webmor’s 66 High Street, Arbroath DD11 1AW 01241 873987, webmors.co.uk Mon–Sat 10am–8.45pm; Sun noon–8.45pm

This is the sort of local everybody wants, set down an alleyway next to the Webster theatre. The decoration of the place touches on theatrical with posters of Hollywood shows and a collection of toby jugs alongside a wind-up gramophone.

Yet the effect among the white red and black decoration is clean cut not junk shop. The lighting is cheerful yet relaxing and the overall effect is friendly and warm. Service is affable with a light touch led by James Hutcheson at front of house, while Mike Patterson masterminds the food with a menu tuned to what the locals want with more exotic specials featuring daily on the blackboard. The popular burger and trimmings is still there but the menu is gradually incorporating more game and fish. Locally sourced food is combined with interesting piquant flavours, with everything made in house.

A delicious example being a creamy oyster mushroom and pine nut pasta.

Other dishes include Cullen skink, slowcooked blade of beef and Eton mess with toasted oats.

CARNOUSTIE, MONIFIETH & AROUND Café Byzantium Monikie Country Park, Monikie DD5 3QB 01382 370970, byzantiumcafe.co.uk Fri 5–9.30pm; Sat/Sun 11.30am– 9.30pm. Closed Mon–Thu.

In an original low stone building in the pretty Monikie Country Park, the bright and modern Café Byzantium serves light lunches and a fuller à la carte dinner menu on weekends. There is plenty of outdoor seating, making it a nice place to sit and watch dog walkers and young families go by. The evening menu reflects the owner/chef’s Mediterranean heritage with a wonderful mix of Greek-inspired

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seafood, meat and veggie dishes including Iskenderoni – char-grilled supreme of chicken, lamb kofte and thin-sliced minute steak topped with Greek yogurt and Byzantium sauce. There’s also a range of pizzas at lunchtime and in the evening. Check the website for seasonal opening hours.

The Coffee Pot 27 High Street, Monifieth DD5 4AA 01382 533134 Mon–Sat 9.30am–4.30pm.

Closed Sun.

Serving up a range of sandwiches, panini, soup and home baking, the Coffee Pot is popular with a younger crowd than its sister café the Laird’s Larder along the street, mainly because its capacious interior offers more space for prams and buggies. Popular with locals for takeaway lunches, there are shelves of old-fashioned sweeties and a small selection of gifts as well.

The Craigton Coach Inn Craigton of Monikie, Broughty Ferry DD5 3QN 01382 370223, craigtoncoachinn.co.uk Mon–Fri noon–2pm, 5–8pm; Sat noon–2.30pm, 5–8pm; Sun noon– 2.30pm, 5–7pm.

Down by Monikie reservoir, the Craigton Coach Inn serves up pub classics in traditional surroundings.

The bar features an open fire, while the small restaurant next door is where most meals are served. The wideranging menu covers all the expected bases – steak pie, lasagne and scampi – as well as the signature Coachie smokie (smoked haddock in a creamy sauce).

Meat and fish is sourced locally, and there is occasional live entertainment – keep an eye on the website for details.

The Granary 8 Queen Street, Carnoustie DD7 7AB 01241 855272, thegranarycarnoustie.com Mon–Fri 8.30am–5.30pm; Sat

8.30am–5pm. Closed Sun.

Run by a brother and sister, and their father before them, the Granary is much beloved in Carnoustie’s food scene.

Serving freshly made hot and cold food to take away, the counters are packed with pies, macaroni cheese and other such hearty dishes, as well as lighter salads and sandwiches. Their mother’s carrot cake, which has a local following, is delivered still-warm each morning.

The shelves are lined with local honey, Scottish biscuits and condiments, and the family also run the small Tee Hut on Carnoustie Links, selling hot drinks, sandwiches and pies.

The Laird’s Larder 79 High Street, Monifieth DD5 4AA 01382 534092 Mon–Sat 9.30am–4.30pm.

Closed Sun.

With good, tasty home baking, oldfashioned favourites on the menu and a fresh and appealing ambience, this is the kind of cheery tearoom you’d hope to find in your own neighbourhood. The room is simply furnished with bright paintings on the walls by local artist and the proprietor’s father Gordon Laird.

There’s a table laden with homemade cakes and their scones and pancakes are revered locally. As well as a regular menu of filled rolls, toasties and baked potatoes, they have two freshly made soups each day and hot specials such as local haddock and chips and the classic herring and oatmeal.

The Milton Inn Grange Road, Monifieth DD5 4LU 01382 532620, themiltoninn.co.uk Tue–Fri noon–2pm, 5–9pm; Sat noon–9pm; Sun noon–8pm.

Closed Mon.

In a leafy residential part of Monifieth, the Milton Inn is a spacious contemporary pub with warm red walls and open log fires on cooler days and a tiered terrace and large beer garden for when the sun shines. The menu covers popular pub favourites from macaroni to fish and chips to roasts, as well as

CHEF’S CHOICE EDEN SINCLAIR ON BALHARRY WALLED GARDEN

We’re lucky to have Paul Hodge-Neale close by. It’s been great working with Paul since he began about three years ago, and he now supplies the vast majority of our vegetables. Our meetings to discuss what we’d like to grow and cook can take hours – he’s passionate, with lots of ideas.

We get all sorts, from new season potatoes, heritage tomatoes and garlic to micro-herbs, kale and cabbages.

Occasionally he’ll drop in surprises such as yacons (underground pears), cucamelons (like mini watermelons with a cucumber taste) or even his bees’ honeycomb.

We do a dish of local Glenogil grouse, Jerusalem artichoke purée, kale and pink fir potatoes with sage – with all the veg making the short trip from Balharry.

■ Eden Sinclair is head chef at The Drovers Inn, Memus (see p.37)

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the likes of char-grilled oriental duck, in addition to daily specials. All dishes are made in house and include plenty of locally sourced ingredients. The bar stocks a range of Scottish real ales, periodically including ales from Mòr brewery at Kellas, a full complement of Angus whiskies and a good wine list.

The Pear Tree Restaurant Burnhead Farm, Auchterhouse DD3 0QS 01382 320266, peartreerestaurant.co.uk Tue–Sat 10am–8pm; Sun noon–8pm.

Closed Mon.

Set in a log cabin in the grounds of Auchterhouse Country Sports, this childfriendly venue relaunched in late 2013 as the Pear Tree Tearoom & Larder, with new owner Angelia Yorke at the helm.

They still continue to offer the popular high teas, but the menu has been extended to offer a greater variety of dishes, and there are home-bakes and speciality loose teas too. They also do food to go, and a new shop area stocks locally-sourced produce including preserves, fresh meat (supplied by husband Frank, of Yorkes of Dundee), eggs and cheese and organic vegetables.

>ONLINE LISTINGS Full write-ups of all venues, with individual location maps and links at each entry, can be found at thelarder.net Accessible on all devices including smartphones and tablets, thelarder.net features additional listings within Angus and search functions for food and drink venues across Scotland.

The Room with a View Restaurant & Bar Piperdam Golf and Leisure Resort, Piperdam, Fowlis DD2 5LP 01382 581374, piperdam.com Mon–Fri noon–2.30pm, 5pm–9pm; Sat noon–9pm; Sun noon–8pm

Part of the Piperdam leisure complex, which includes golf, archery and selfcatering lodges, the Room with a View Restaurant, as its names suggests, enjoys a wonderful view over the loch and golf course through its panoramic windows.

The emphasis is on informal and family dining, with bar snacks available throughout the day and an exhaustive à la carte menu served in the restaurant.

Global options include pasta dishes, curries and fajitas, and closer to home there are Scottish options featuring local ingredients including Arbroath smokie

pâté, Perthshire pheasant wrapped in Parma ham, and Aberdeen Angus steaks.

There is good outdoor seating and a children’s outdoor play park close by.

The Speckled Hen Newbigging Farm, Tealing DD4 0QX 01382 380255, tealingvillage.org/ thespeckledhen.html Mon–Sat 9am–4.30pm; Sun 10am–4.30pm

A short hop off the A90 between Forfar and Dundee, the Speckled Hen is a café and shop selling the farm’s own and other local berries, vegetables and eggs.

The café has some outdoor seating, and serves bacon rolls, their homemade steak bridies, buffalo burgers, sandwiches and a variety of fresh home baking. The shop also sells its own jams, beef from Grants of Dundee, milk and cream from Forfar’s North Street Dairy, and Scottish cheese, honey and oatcakes. Hen-themed pottery, books, knitting wool and eco bags fill other shelves, and there is a plant nursery next door.

The Waterside Restaurant Forbes of Kingennie, Broughty Ferry, Dundee DD5 3RD 01382 350777, forbesofkingennie.com Mon–Sun 9am–8.45pm

Part of a striking country resort with fishing and golf, the informal restaurant at Forbes of Kingennie is airy, fresh and contemporary, with an impressive aquarium and views over one of the fishing pools – including outdoor seating when the weather permits. Open from breakfast to dinner, the à la carte menu has a good range of bistro classics such as steaks, fish and chips and chicken with black pudding, as well as some more esoteric creations of their own – think green pea and white chocolate risotto or smoked salmon, neep and potato salad.

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Picnic Spots

Where to picnic around Angus

Lunan Bay ■ Corrie

Fee, Glen Clova

OS grid NO284760

Corrie Fee National Nature Reserve is a dramatic amphitheatre cut from the earth by a glacier. A good path leads from the Glen Doll car park (a small charge applies) on a gentle walk to a viewpoint of the corrie. Picnic here, then you can take lighter bags on the steeper route to the waterfall at the back, possibly seeing golden eagles on the way. nnr-scotland.org.uk

■ Loch of Kinnordy OS grid NO3554

One for twitchers, ospreys are a regular summer visitor – look out for them from the three hides. The loch is a nature reserve run by the RSPB, open daily from dawn to dusk. A car park and bike rack are available, or a footpath connects the Loch to Kirriemuir, 1.25 miles away. rspb.org.uk/reserves

■ Reekie Linn Falls OS grid NO2553

One of Scotland’s finest waterfalls (the name means ‘smoking pool’), surrounded by woodland. A car park and picnic site are about 200m away from the falls, next to the River Isla on the B954, then the path to the waterfall follows the rim of a deep gorge with an unprotected 150ft/45m drop – it’s unfenced, so take care with children.

■ Lunan Bay OS grid NO6951

Three miles of strawberry blonde sand backed by large dunes, Lunan Bay is on any list of best Scottish beaches.

Corrie Fee

It’s overlooked by the ruins of Red Castle, and reputed for agate and other gemstones turning up amongst the pebbles. There’s car parking behind the dunes, and the beach is popular with horse riders and surfers.

■ St Cyrus Nature Reserve beach OS grid NO7463

Picnickers might be treated to porpoise sightings, asº well as a host of seabirds nesting in the cliffs that shelter humans, flora and fauna alike. A visitor centre provides access to the beach, which comes alive with a burst of colour in summer with purple clustered bell-flowers and multitudes of butterflies. Look out for peregrine falcons.

■ The Rocks of Solitude OS grid NO5872

Right on the Highland Boundary Fault, the romantically named Rocks of Solitude is a narrow gorge, through which the North Esk river plunges, occasionally in impressive waterfalls. Most visitors park in picturesque Edzell then take a path from there that follows the river upstream. At the right time of year salmon can be seen leaping up their ladder.

■ Edzell Castle OS grid NO585691

Edzell Castle, now ruined, dates from the early 16th century. Once owned by the Lindsays, now by Historic Scotland, the finest feature is the wonderful walled garden, added in 1604 and recreated in the 1930s. Unique in Europe, the original, most intriguing feature, remains intact: four walls carved with intricate allegorical panels.

Admission prices apply, and there’s a picnic area. historic-scotland.gov.uk The Angus Larder 45

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list.co.uk

Angus farmers’ markets FIRST SATURDAY OF EACH MONTH Montrose Montrose High Street

SECOND SATURDAY OF EACH MONTH Forfar Strathmore Hall, John Street

Markets Mark Ma rket etss ru run n 9am–1pm; 9am 9a m–1p 1pm m; an angu angusfarmersmarket.co.uk gusf sfar arme mers rsma mark rket et.co co.uk uk

FESTIVALS ■ The

Angus Show

■ Arbroath Seafest

theangusshow.com

arbroathseafest.co.uk

A couple of weekends before the Royal Highland Show, in early June, is the sizeable Angus Show, an agricultural show held at Brechin Castle. Visitors can expect all the traditional events, including sheep shearing and a dog show.

A two-day festival of the sea and Arbroath’s maritime heritage held on the seafront, Seafest has run since 1997.

Taking place in August, annual dates change according to the high tide. There are fishing displays, music, craft and food stalls including a Smokie Trail.

■ The Kirriemuir Show

■ Glen Clova Beer Festival

kirriemuir-show.co.uk

clova.com/clova-hotel-beer-festival.cfm

An annual agricultural show held the first weekend after the 12th of July, go for home baking competitions, trade stands, a craft fair and pipe band.

Ales and ciders from Scotland and the wider UK. Generally held in mid-late July, there’s live music all weekend, a barbecue on Saturday and a hog roast on Sunday. Camping is available.

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Index

Index Abbey Fruit 22 Aberdeen-Angus 12, 13, 22 Aberfeldy Oatmeal 22, 23 Agritourism 20 Alex Spink and Sons 23, 29 Angus Apples 9, 22 Angus Show 46 Angus Soft Fruits 22 apples 9, 22 Arbikie Highland Estate 21, 23 Arbroath Fisheries 23, 30 Arbroath Seafest 46 Arbroath smokies 10, 18, 19, 23, 37, 46 Arbroath Smokies Direct 23, 30 asparagus 22, 39 The Auld Surgery Tearoom 36 Balharry Walled Garden 43 J Barclay Butcher 26 beef 12, 13, 22 beer 17, 23, 46 Bel’s Butchers 15, 26 berries 22 Bertram’s Quality Butchers 27 Bouvrage 9, 23 bread 23 Brechin Castle Garden Centre 33 bridies 10, 23 Bruce Brymer Family Butcher 26, 41 But ‘n’ Ben 40 butter 8, 23 Café Byzantium 42 The Cairnie Chip Shop 40 Carlotta’s Chocolate 23 cattle 12, 13 Chapelbank Hotel 37 Charleton Fruit Farm 22, 33 The Coffee Pot 43 The Corn Kist Coffee House 31, 40 Corrie Fee 45 The Craigton Coach Inn 43 Darling’s Coffee Shop 40 The Drovers Inn 16, 37, 43 Dundee 35 Dundee cake 10 Dunlouise Angus 13 E&O Fish 30 Eassie Farm 22, 28, 39 Edzell 15, 45 Edzell Tweed Warehouse 15, 34 88 Degrees Fine Food Emporium 23, 37 Ella Drinks 9, 22, 23 European Network of Regional Culinary Heritage 10 Falconer Family Butcher 30 farmers’ markets 46 Farquhar, Rosie 41 festivals 46 Finavon Hotel and Café 38

fish 19, 23 CG Fleming 30 Forfar Bridies 10, 23 Forfar Farmers’ Market 46 Gather 32 gin 21, 23 Glen Clova Beer Festival 46 Glen Clova Hotel 38 Glen Esk 15, 16, 45 Glen Isla Hotel 16, 38 Glen Lethnot 15 Glencadam Distillery 23 Glenesk Retreat 34 Glenogil Estate 16, 22 Go Rural 20 Gordon’s Restaurant 39, 41 The Granary 43 Grant, Paul 14 H.O.P.E. 22, 30 Harbourside Grill 41 Hideaway Experience 20 Highland Game 16 Hospitalfield 22 Hospitalfield Organic Produce 30 Iain R Spink Original Smokies 31 ice-cream 23 Isabella’s Preserves 22 jam 14, 22 James Ewart Ltd 33 James McLaren and Son 23, 27 James Pirie & Son 28 JM Bakery 33 Keillor Farm 12 D&A Kennedy 28 Keptie Bakery 23, 31 Kingston Farm 13, 22 Kirrie Ales 17, 23 Kirriemuir Show 46 The Laird’s Larder 43 Links Hotel 34 Loch of Knnordy 45 Lunan Bay 45 Lunan Bay Diner 41 Mackays 14, 22, 31 Madison’s 34 marmalade 14, 22 milk 8, 23 Milton Haugh Farm Shop 22, 31 The Milton Inn 43 Missy Mustards 41 Montrose Farmers’ Market 46 Mòr Brewing 17, 23 Mrs Bridges 22, 23 Mum’s of Montrose Tea Rooms 34 Murton Farm Tearoom 38 Myreside Organics 22, 31 Nature’s Garden 26 No. 63 15 Norma’s Homemade Preserves 22 North Street Dairy 8, 23, 28 Northern Hotel 35

No. 63 35 Ogilvy Spirits 7, 23 The Old Boatyard 42 Patterson, Michael 37 AH & HA Pattullo 28, 39 Paula’s at the House of Farnell 36 The Pear Tree Restaurant 44 Peel Farm 20, 22, 23 Peel Farm Shop 28, 38 PGI 10, 19 picnic spots 45 Picts 29 The Playwright 35 potatoes 6, 21, 23 Queen Street Tavern 39 Reekie Linn Falls 45 Rennie’s the Butcher 29 DH Robertson 31, 37 Rocks of Solitude 15, 45 Room with a View Restaurant & Bar 44 Rosie’s Bakehouse 36, 41 Saddler’s of Forfar 23, 29 St Cyrus Nature Reserve 45 salmon 10, 23 Sarah Gray 22 Silla Keyser 23 Sinclair, Eden 43 Skea Organics 6 Small’s Confectionary 29, 33 M&M Smith 23, 32 Smithies Deli 42 smokies 10, 18, 19, 23, 37, 46 Soutar, Geordie 13 South Powrie Farm 22 The Speckled Hen 44 Spink, Alex 23 Spink, D 23 D Spink Fishmongers 32 Spink, Iain 18, 19, 23, 31 M&M Spink 32 The Stag 39 The Star Rock Shop 29 Stirling, PJ 22 Storm Cakes 23 Stuart’s 37 Sugar and Spice 23, 32 Tattie Festival 23 10 Cafe Bar 39 Trumperton Forge Tearoom 39 The Tuck Inn 15, 36 Turrif’s 37 Usan Salmon Fisheries 10, 23 venison 16, 22 Visocchi’s Café 23, 39 vodka 7, 21, 23 The Waterside Restaurant 44 Watson, Gerry 39 Watson, Hugh 12 Webmor’s 37, 42 whisky 21, 23 Wilkes, Haley 31 The Angus Larder 47

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Angus g Larder

Name section

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DE TO THE FOOD & DRINK OF ANGUS

Good food and drink is a hallmark of the Angus landscape, from the fertile fields of Strathmore to the heathery hills of the Glens and along the harbours of the North Sea coast. With bridies from Forfar, smokies from Arbroath, Aberdeen-Angus beef and Scotland’s finest asparagus crop, it’s the home of some of the nation’s most distinctive produce. In addition you can find plenty more, from apple juice to potato vodka, choice berries to handmade butter, distinctive local produce that’s sold to neighbours and across the world.

This fully revised second edition of the Angus Larder includes: ■ in-depth stories about the food and drink of the region ■ handy listings of local producers, markets and food shops ■ profiles of the people producing the area’s best food: fishermen, farmers, fruit growers, brewers and others ■ Angus chefs talking about the local food that inspires them ■ an independent guide to the best local cafés and restaurants

the

Larder THE GUIDE TO SCOTLAND’S FOOD AND DRINK

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GUIDES

Perthshire

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Larder THE GUIDE TO THE FOOD & DRINK OF PERTHSHIRE

THE GUIDE TO THE FOOD & DRINK OF LANARKSHIRE

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30/08/2013 16:17

SECOND EDITION

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