The List #224, Oct 15 2014

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Issue 224 15 October 2014

EVERY TWO WEEKS

T h e M a g a z i n e T h at K n o w s

The Macau Issue Go explore our sister SAR



CONTENTS

14

08

10

05 Editor’s Letter

What’s In

Kate Spade’s new seasonal wardrobe brings a touch of Shanghai to Hong Kong.

06 Guestlist

14 Feature

Purple on Parade

It’s time for abs and eye-candy again with the fantabulous Mr. Gay Hong Kong 2014.

08 Wishlist

Trendwatch

Love French fashion but can’t justify the price tags? Head to Mademoiselle Chic Pop Up Boutique.

Lookbook

As well as designing modern qipaos for Yi-Ming, Grace Choi shares her fashion secrets with The List.

Macau Musts

Whether you’re a first-timer or a Venetian veteran, tick these essentials off your Macau must-do list.

50 Baby Pak choi

Some Love for Pregnancy

Managing editor Sarah Fung shares some of her favorite pregnancy moments.

Beauty and Wellness

Monitor your every move with the new Fitbit Flex.

KNOW & TEL

Hotels p.24

Restaurants p.28

Museums p.32

Heritage p.36

Entertainment p.40

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Th e M aga z i n e That K n ow s

HK Magazine media

Publisher and General Manager | Greg Crandall

The List Magazine Media Ltd.

Editorial

Part of HK Magazine Media Group 302 Hollywood Centre, 233 Hollywood Road,

Editor-in-Chief | Zach Hines Managing Editor | Sarah Fung

Hong Kong

Senior Consulting Editor | Kate Springer

Tel: 852-2850-5065 Fax: 852-2543-4964 E-mail: thelist@hkmagmedia.com

Staff Writers | Andrea Lo, Evelyn Lok

Associate Editor | Charlotte Mulliner

Production Production Manager | Blackie Hui Art Director | Pierre Pang Designers | Siu Fa Wong, Tammy Tan Production Supervisor | Kelly Cheung

Finance Finance Manager | Karen Tsang Assistant Finance Manager | Penny Cheng Senior Accountant | Alex Fung Internal Compliance Officer | Lucy Wong Accountant | Winson Yip Assistant Accountants | Coa Wong, Edwin Lee

Advertising & Circulation Director of Sales | Gary Wong Strategic Sales Director | Jan Cheng Associate Advertising Director | Joe Ng Senior Sales Manager | Joyce Wu Senior Advertising Manager | Kent Ma Advertising Managers | Dominic Lucien Brettell, Keiko Ko, Rita Ng Assistant Advertising Manager | Arena Choi Advertising Executives | Harriette Cheung, Lamy Lam Advertising Coordinator | Christine So

Marketing Marketing Manager | James Gannaban Marketing & Circulation Executive | Charmaine Mirandilla Accounts Services Executive | Sharon Cheung

ONLINE Online & Social Media Manager | Katie Kenny Web Developer | Timothy Cheng

Editorial

Advertising

E-mail: thelist@hkmagmedia.com

Tel: (852) 2850-5678 Fax: (852) 2543-4088 E-mail: advertising@hkmagmedia.com

Copyright 2014 The List Magazine Media Ltd. The contents of The List are the property of The List Magazine Media Ltd. Reproduction in whole or part without permission is strictly prohibited. The List may not be distributed without the express written consent of The List Magazine Media Ltd. Contact the Advertising Director for ad rates and specifications. All advertising in The List must comply with the Publisher's terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Apex Print Limited, 11-13 Dai Kwai Street, Tai Po Industrial Estate, Tai Po, N.T. Before you decide to purchase or use the products and/or services that our magazine introduces, you should gather further information about the same in addition to the representations or advertising contents in our magazine. The contents in articles by guest authors are the author’s personal views only and do not represent the position of our magazine or our company. Please gather further information about the products and/or services before you decide to purchase or use the same.

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editor’s letter

The Case for Macau

It may be right next door, but don’t underestimate Macau: between the romantic Portuguese architecture and delicious local delicacies, our sister SAR has a lot going for it. Whether you’re a first-timer or heading back for more, we can point you towards some of the territory’s best offerings.

First off, you better find a place to stay. On p.24, we’ve explored a handful of Macau’s top hotels—from heritage hideaways to family resorts. We’ve also tastetested the territory’s best restaurants (p.28) for your must-eat list. As for heritage, Macau has plenty! Explore the city’s cobbled streets and old cathedrals with our lists of heritage sites (p.36) and museums (p.32). And before you leave, toast to a successful trip in one of the trendy cocktail bars in our entertainment roundup on p.40. Happy travels,

Kate Springer Senior Consulting Editor

Get in Touch I’d love to hear from you! E-mail me: kate.springer@hkmagmedia.com Find me on Twitter: @katespringer

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Flagship Designer Showroom: 1/F, Horizon Plaza, Ap Lei Chau. 2877 3295 www.tequilakola.com

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2014/01/24

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Make a Date Our picks for the month

Mr. Gay Hong Kong 2013

Oct 18

Oct 24

Purple on Parade

Opening Act

Like abs? Like eye candy? Mr. Gay Hong Kong is back. As per years past, the fantabulous pageant will see a parade of muscles on show. This edition is taking place at boutique hotel Ovolo Southside, in Wong Chuk Hang. As well as unveiling the winner of MGHK 2014—who will go on to represent the city at Mr. Gay World 2015—the amazing party will feature drag cabaret act Les Fleurs Sauvages. The theme this year is purple: dress accordingly!

Cementing Chai Wan’s reputation as an up-andcoming arts hub, creative space Puerta del Sol officially opens this month. Situated in an industrial building, the 2,700-square-foot space takes its design cues from New York lofts and its name from the center of Madrid. Roll up to the opening party for food, drinks, live DJs, a chat with the founders, and plenty of artsy creative types.

7pm. Ovolo Southside, 64 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Wong Chuk Hang. $250-350 from tiny.cc/mghkfinale

8:30pm. Puerta del Sol, Unit 8D, 4 Sun On St., Chai Wan, 6461-1483, puertadelsolhk.com. Free entry; register at www.eventbrite.com

Oct 21

Lyrical Lydmor Danish singer-songwriter and composer Lydmor sounds a little like Ellie Goulding and Florence Welch, electronica style. How awesome is that? She’s taking time out from preparations for a solo LP to play this gig, so go support her at Backstage Live. 9pm. Backstage Live, 1/F, Somptueux Central, 52-54 Wellington St., Central, 2167-8985. $100 at the door.

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Guestlist

Oct 16, 23

Bao Down Before Me Listen up, hipster foodies: Bao Wow has teamed up with craft beer importer Bestbev for a series of Bao’n’Beer pairings. For $68, choose between an original gua bao and Amadeus beer; a sesame ginger pork chop bao and Matso’s ginger beer; or a kimchi bulgogi bao with Goldeneye Pale Ale. Sweet.

Spotted!

#Omtogether hong kong Sep 14

4pm. Bao Wow, Shop 2, 28 Tai Wong St. East, Wan Chai, 2528-9505

Mon-Fri

Dine for Less Recently voted as a favorite in The List Readers’ Choice Awards, cocktail bar Stockton has just launched a three-course set dinner menu for a pretty reasonable $275 per person. On offer are Australian blue mussels, braised wagyu beef cheek and sticky toffee pudding, among others. Stockton, G/F, 32 Wyndham St., Central, 2565-5268

Organized by Stretch City Hong Kong, a website dedicated to the city’s yoga community, #OmTogether Hong Kong saw a huge turnout last month. Held beside the water at the New Central Harbourfront, this stretch-a-thon attracted more than 600 yogis. The event also featured Hong Kong’s leading yoga experts Dr. Bryan Lau and Claudia Whitney, fueled by music from Jason Nogoy of Crafthouse.

Want to see your event featured here? Send invitations to thelist@hkmagmedia.com

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A dose of Hong Kong style New Product

Ain’t No Tang

Luxe City Guides has teamed up with lifestyle brand Shanghai Tang for a cool collab. The gussied-up Asian Grand Tour Boxes will guide you through eight of the best cities in Asia, including Bangkok, Shanghai, Singapore, and Tokyo—plus the new addition to the guidebook series, Kuala Lumpur. So now you can get all your sharp, snappy, about-town reviews, jazzed up with a touch of Shanghai Tang style. Perfect for slotting in your handbag on that quick Asian getaway.

wishlist

Fashion Forecast This fortnight’s style digest

Hot Nails Match those smokin’, red-hot heels with Christian Louboutin’s new range of nail polishes.

Hot

Trendwatch

Christian Louboutin, $450

$725 from www.luxecityguides.com or Shanghai Tang, 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333

Color Pops See the sunny side of life with a splash of (really) bright yellow in your wardrobe. Anteprima, $12,800

White on Black This season’s blackand-white trend may be conventional, but it’s easy to get right. Marimekko, $3,295

Hat’s Off A French hat that’s a real non-non. Kapok

Pop-up Chic If you love Parisian fashion but can’t justify the price tags, head to Mademoiselle Chic Pop Up Boutique at PMQ, which is stocking secondhand big-name French labels until the end of October. Fashionista Héloïse Mendes came over from Paris in 2010 and founded Hong Kong’s first pre-loved French clothes concept in Stanley (Stanley Court House, 8-9 Stanley Mound Rd.) and she’s now bringing these classy outfits north to Central. Allez!—catch a preview before they’re gone! Through Oct 31. H310, 35 Aberdeen St., Central, 6254-20410, mademoisellechicboutique.com

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ABBAsolutely not Relegate this shiny number back to the 70s. Dorothy Perkins

NOT

Hot Opening


Lookbook

wishlist

Melvita Organic Lip Balm This is made from 100 percent natural and organic ingredients. The non-sticky texture restores comfort and softness to my dry lips. Lip balm is a must item in my handbag all year round.

Calvin Klein Beauty This is my fourth bottle of perfume from the same brand. So far, it’s still my favorite smell.

Cord Organizer

Grace Choi After working as a fashion model for years, Grace founded her own label “Yi-ming” with orientalinspired qipaos for modern-day women. The designer shares some of her favorite items with Charlotte Mulliner.

I love this because I have a sausage dog. This is a brilliant design for wrapping up my iPhone cable so it’s not so messy in my bag.

Mont Blanc Pen This is a meaningful pen, which I usually use for signing big contracts!

Shop 8A, Kimley Commercial Building, 142 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3111-2268, www.yi-ming.asia

Bottega Veneta Card Holder I adore this soft leather and the color. The size is big enough for me to separate my money and name cards. It’s a bit manly, but I love using this instead of a big lady wallet.

Zara Photo Frame I love these photo frames. I’ve bought so many for my office and home to keep my best moments alive.

Yi-ming Double-Sided Cape This cape with detachable sleeves and matching colors inside and out can be worn double-sided. This is my key fall/winter item! It goes perfectly with jeans and a top, or formal attire like our qipaos. This cape even comes in a few color combinations!

Bottle Holder This small chain design is so interesting. I found it on the internet and I bought quite a few for myself and also as gifts for friends.

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Beauty & Wellness Your guide to looking fit and fabulous

Workout Gear

Flexy Time For the past month, Kate Springer has been testing out Fitbit Flex to see what all the fuss is about. For starters, this brightly hued wristband is water-proof up to 10 meters deep, so you can wear it in the shower or in the ocean—no problem. Not only does it monitor the steps you take every day (with a target of 10,000), but you can use the online app to track your sleep, meals, water intake and connect with friends. Kate’s take on the band: “Having my Fitbit around is like a really motivational Tamagotchi: I love when I hit my step goal, and it celebrates with a buzzing cheer. It’s a constant reminder to get off my butt and to stop reaching for chocolate constantly.” $775 from www. fitbit.com/flex

Tried & Tested

New Digs

So Polished

Epic Workout

One-stop day spa Fast Beauty in Sheung Wan has just come out with a high-tech new device called the Nailae, which airbrushes your nails with the design of your choice. Rather than stickers or painstakingly drawn designs, you can scroll through the iPad app to choose a graphic, or send a custom photo ahead and watch it print onto your nail in about a minute. It’s still in the launch stages, so the whole process may be a little cumbersome—there’s a bottom coat, then a primer, and a sticky thing to keep the polish from spraying all over your finger—but the results are funky feature nails that come off just like nail polish. While you’re there, ask about the new Shellac deals for an extra indulgence.

After a big facelift last month, Epic MMA Club has revealed a slew of new classes and services. The martial arts specialist still offers its signature training courses and CrossFit classes, but has added an ample section of cardio and weight machines that are equipped with state-of-the-art tech—think fitness tracking programs and entertainment. Also on the schedule? New AntiGravity yoga sessions, a new Blackbelt CrossFit program with Greek Olympic weightlifting champ Marianna Tzourtzek, and even some classes for kids.

83A Hollywood Rd., Central, 2517-0939, www.fastbeautyspa.com

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Monthly membership from $800. 1/F, Aon China Building, 29 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2525-2833, www.epicmma.com



What’s In Kate Spade

1 2

3

4

6 5

1. Leopard Handbag

$1,400 2. Song Bird Drop Earrings

$700 3. Collared Scuba Top

$2,700 7

12

8

4. Cheetah Box Pleat Skirt

$2,800

5. Rura Dress

$4,500 6. Zip Pocket Mini Skirt

$2,800 7. Sequin Fit and Flare Dress

$8,500 8. Jimi Flats

$2,300


wishlist

9

11 12 10

9. Chloe Finn Clutch

$3,200 10. Zooey Skirt

$2,600 11. Colorblock Shift Dress

$3,300 12. Oversize Wool Cardigan

$2,700

13

13. Small Pearl Handbag

$2,700

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14. Francoise Coat

$6,100 15. New York Pointer Sneakers

$700

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Shop 1053B, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 3188-1928, www.katespade.com

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Macau Musts

Whether you’re a first-timer or a Venetian veteran, make sure you’ve ticked these essentials off your Macau must-do list. By Charlotte Mulliner

Photos all courtesy of the Macau Government Tourist Office

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Ruins of St Paul’s If you haven’t seen this imposing “altar to the city” in person, then you’ll have surely seen it everywhere else: on posters, brochures and adverts (you name it, the edifice will be plastered across it), as it’s the city’s most iconic building. These ruins originally formed the Church of Mater Dei, which was built in 1602-1640, and that of the neighboring St Paul’s College. In 1835 a fire burnt most of this Macau acropolis to the ground—and this façade is sadly all that remains. The Museum of Sacred Art and Crypt lies in the basement. Get here early in the morning; otherwise you’ll be knocking elbows with bus-loads of tourists. Open daily, 9am-6pm. Rua de São Paulo, Macau Peninsula

Senado Square

Guia Cable Car

Senado Square (Senado meaning “senate”) forms the historical heart of Macau, and is named after the municipal Leal Senado Building it faces. The harmonious collection of neo-classical-style buildings surrounding the square was built in the 19th and 20th centuries. Pretty windows, iron railings and grand colonnades frame the streets; with the peach and yellow brickwork contrasting starkly with the square’s black-and-white woven cobbles, which were decorated in 1993. Stroll down one of the quiet side alleys for a true flavor of the Mediterranean.

This 186-meter-long cable car has the dubious claim of being the shortest in the world, but if you’re looking for a quick and easy way to access some of the best panoramas the city has to offer, this is it. The short journey will take you up the steep Guia Hill, with views over the Pearl River Delta and surrounding islands. Take a few minutes to wander through the grounds of the former Flora Palace at the base, an old aristocratic Portuguese mansion that now houses an aviary and a small zoo.

Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro, Macau Peninsula

Open Tue-Sun, 8am-6pm. Avenida Sidónio Pais, Macau Peninsula, (+853) 2833-7676

Guia Fortress At the top of Guia Cable Car—the highest point in Macau—lies Guia Fortress. Built in 1622 by the Captain of Artillery, Antonio Ribeiro, the fortress complex helped the Portuguese fend off the Dutch invasion of the time. Inside the small fort stands Guia Chapel, built the same year, as well as Guia Lighthouse, which was erected some 240 years later. The chapel was run by Clarist nuns and boasts elaborate murals painted using a blend of Chinese and western techniques. Although closed to the public, the simple and rustic lighthouse is worth a glimpse from the outside, just to give context to Macau’s maritime and military heritage. Open daily, 9am-5:30pm. Estrada do Engenheiro Trigo, Macau Peninsula, (+853) 2859-5481

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Macau Giant Panda Pavilion Far, far away from the bright lights of Cotai’s casinos, you’ll find Macau’s real treasures: Kai Kai and Xin Xin—two rare giant pandas. Hidden in the hills of Seac Pai Van Park on the southeasterly Coloane island, the Macau Giant Panda Pavilion is a 3,000-square-meter facility with indoor and outdoor playgrounds for the endangered pair—a gift to Macau from mainland China in 2009. The park also contains an aviary, gardens and the small Natural and Agrarian Museum. Open Tue-Sun, 10am-1pm, 2-5pm. Estrada de Seac Pai Van, Coloane

Macau Tower Bungy Jump

Hac Sa Beach

From every corner of the city, you’ll be able to see Macau Tower’s spire soaring skywards—so it goes without saying that the panoramas from the viewing deck here are the best you’re going to get. But why stop there? Adventure lovers AJ Hackett created the Macau Tower Bungy Jump to be the highest in the world at 233 meters. You’ll be strapped into specially designed cords and cables before you free-fall at speeds of up to 200 kilometers per hour. For $2,888 you’ll also get a T-shirt and certificate to commemorate your bravery.

Situated on the quiet south side of Coloane island, “Hac Sá,” which literally means “black sand,” is one of the most popular beaches in Macau—and its longest. The sand’s mineral deposits lent it a blackish tinge, but since erosion started to wear away at the sweeping shore, it’s since been muted by top-ups of artificial yellow sand. Various sports facilities on offer range from a swimming pool and mini-golf course to tennis. From here you can also take one of the several hiking trails up into the Hac Sá Reservoir Country Park (see p.40 for more info).

Largo da Torre de Macau, Macau Peninsula, (+853) 2893-3339, www.ajhackett.com/macau

Tap Seac Gallery This small, government-funded art gallery is often sadly overlooked. Before it became a gallery, the historic mansion was home to an upper-crust family. It has a neo-classical, European flair reminiscent of the 1920s, with its Portuguese façade of wooden shutters, red-brick walls and Moorish arched doors. With its range of contemporary and avant-garde exhibitions, Tap Seac Gallery has become a hotspot for the art crowd of both Macau and Hong Kong.

Estrada de Hac Sá, Coloane

The House of Dancing Water

Ferreira de Almeida, Macau Peninsula,

This spectacular US$250 million show is still being talked about, four years after it opened to rave reviews. Directed by Franco Dragone (of Cirque du Soleil fame), the cast of actors, acrobats, dancers, gymnasts and high-performance divers all flip, swim, swing and twirl around a custom-built, 270-degree theater that contains 3.7 million gallons of water. Grab a seat in the front rows—you’ll get a towel to protect yourself from the spray—and be astounded by the show’s brilliance. Look out for the frequent hotel and ticket packages to grab a good deal.

(+853) 2836-6866, www.macauart.net/TS

City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, (+853) 8868-6767, thehouseofdancingwater.com

Open daily, 10am-7pm. Avenida do Conselheiro

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The Venetian Macao

Pedicab Ride

Macau aficionados have all ticked this off their lists—and will probably swear never to come back just for the sheer volume of tourists you’ll encounter. Fitted out as a carbon copy of its Las Vegas counterpart, The Venetian Macao imitates the famous architecture and canals of Venice, even down to the singing gondoliers. As well as 3,000 (very spacious) suites, the hotel boasts more than 300 shops, over 30 restaurants, outdoor swimming pools and an arena hosting world-class performers—and that’s not forgetting the world’s largest casino. There’s definitely enough going on for a whole weekend of entertainment.

Not to be outdone by London’s rickshaw cabbies or New York’s horse-drawn carriages, Macau has its own form of slow-paced, open-air transportation: the Pedicab. Hop aboard this tricycle for a more leisurely approach to sightseeing— the drivers know their stuff and can give you insight into the city’s attractions. Get them to take you along the waterfront of Nam Van and Sai Van lakes, as well as into the heart of the historic downtown. Pedicabs are about $150 an hour, but make sure you agree on a price before setting off.

Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, (+853) 2882-8888, www.venetianmacao.com

Various locations including the Macau Ferry Terminal

Macau Grand Prix It may not be quite on the same scale as the Singapore Grand Prix, but Macau’s street race has been going for six decades and is pretty fast, pretty noisy and pretty famous. Seven races spread across four days make for one fun-filled festival and a great excuse for a long weekend in our sibling SAR. With speedy straights, tight corners and unforgiving crash barriers, it’s a circuit that has challenged some of the best racers in the world. New this year is the Chinese Racing Cup—a competition with racers from mainland China, Taipei, Hong Kong and Macau battling it out for supremacy. Just don’t forget your ear plugs! Nov 13-16. www.macau.grandprix.gov.mo

Fernando’s Located at the southern end of Macau, by Coloane’s Hac Sá Beach, is the famed Portuguese eatery Fernando’s. While it may be farther away from the hubbub, it’s a classic, bare bones spot where you can find Macau’s most iconic dishes, such as decadent and crispy suckling pig, Portuguese chouriço (chorizo), and Fernando’s famous clams in spicy garlic sauce. With its huge premises that includes two dining rooms and a spacious back garden with a bar, it’s always lively and the food is always guaranteed to be phenomenal. Be sure to head there early, as there are always queues. No reservations, cash only. 9 Hac Sá Beach, Coloane, (+853) 2888-2264

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38 Lounge Rooftop bars in Macau are not as commonplace as Hong Kong, and so 38 Lounge, perched atop the Altira Hotel, is a real find. High up on the 38th floor, this stylish lounge-slash-bar offers panoramic views of the neon skyline from sleek white armchairs on the terrace. You can choose from 38 different wines offered by the glass, as well as 38 cognacs and 38 whiskeys—can you spot the theme? The music is chilled out early in the evening but gets more upbeat with live music and DJs as the night goes on. 38/F, Altira Macau, Avenida de Kwong Tung, Taipa, (+853) 2886-8868, www.altiramacau.com

Portuguese Egg Tarts Macau’s most iconic snacks, Portuguese egg tarts, or pastéis de nata, need almost no introduction. Brought over to the SAR via Portuguese colonial influences, the crème brûlée-like tart is an easy favorite with the masses. The best ones are fresh from the oven, with crispy and flaky pastry crust, buttery and soft custard filling, and just a hint of caramelized sweetness. Try it from Lord Stow’s Bakery (see p.28). Shop 2119a, 3/F, The Grand Canal Shoppes, Venetian, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, (+853) 2886-6889


A Taste of Modern Living •DEMONSTRATION COURSES• Course

Instructor

Chinese Homemade Cooking Mrs Anita Lam – Two-Hour Course

Date Wednesdays 10:30 am - 12:30 pm

Course Fee Full Course of 6 lessons $540 or individual lesson $95

Homestyle Pakistani / Indian Cooking III

Mrs Rehana Sheikh From November 3 (Monday) 10:30 am - 12:00 noon (4 sessions once weekly)

Full Course $360 or individual lesson $95

European Cooking for Beginners II

Mrs Clara Tse

Full Course $270 or individual lesson $95

From December 5 (Friday) 10:30 am - 12:00 noon (3 sessions once weekly)

•TWO – HOUR DEMONSTRATION COURSES• Course

Instructor

Best Chicken Curries

Mrs Rehana Sheikh December 1 (Monday) 10:30 am - 12:30 pm

$100

Spicy and Hot Beef Curries

Mrs Rehana Sheikh December 8 (Monday) 10:30 am - 12:30 pm

$95

Home Management Centre 10/F, Electric Centre 28 City Garden Road North Point, Hong Kong

Date

For enquiry: 2510 2828 Website: www.hkelectric.com/hmc www.facebook.com/hmcfansclub

Course Fee

To view our course information, please scan here or download [Low Carbon App] in mobile.


MAPping Macau Macau Peninsula

Taipa Cotai

Coloane

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Who reads The List?

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CENTRAL

4D Al’s Diner American Women’s Association Archie B’s & ElTaco Loco Brunch Club Bumps 2 Babes Café de Paris Café O Café Queen Cafeine Casa Dei Bambini Central Health Medical Practice Chachawan China Club CitySuper Classified - Exchange Square Daz DEF Boxing DROP Dymocks - IFC Eclectic Cool EmmaTse Elite Dance Academy Essensuals EuroTreat Fast Beauty Fitness First Plus Fleur de Sel Flow Bookshop Foreign Correspondents Club Fringe Club Gateway General Store Grappa’s Cellar Health Gate HYPOXI Indulgence Integrated Medicine Institute Isola Iyara Spa Jaspa’s Kee Club Kisses Cupcakes La Belle Salon La Creperie Life Café

Limestone Arms Nature’s Village Oliver’s Delicatessen One Pilates Studio Oolaa Park N Shop Garden Road Paul Gerrard Polkadot Portobello Prints Sambag Saturn Silver Savvy Style / Color Me Beautiful Seasons Fitness Sense ofTouch Showtime Lingerie Sole Mio Spa Beaute Par Zai Starbucks - Alexandra House - IFC

Starlit Art Space Sugo Sushi The 9th Muse The Beauty Wave Studio The Body Group The Feel Good Factor The Helena May Library The Herbivores The Putman The Vitality Center TIKKA Toni & Guy U.S. Consulate Volume H.E.A.T Wagyu Wagyu Lounge XTC Gelato Yo Mama

MID-LEVELS/ THE PEAK Bamboo Grove Clubhouse Bowen’s Lookout Bubba Gump Dymocks - Bonham Rd. Hillsborough Court Il Bel Paese K-Town Bar & Grill

Ladies’ Recreation Club Mier Serviced Apartments OrangeTree Queen’s Garden Seymour The Peak Lookout Restaurant The Royal Court Tregunter Clubhouse YWCA English Speaking Members Department

ADMIRALTY Café Zambra Grappa’s Proway Relocation & Real Estate Services

WANCHAI Bar 109 Baron School of Music - HKAC - Lockhart Rd.

Classified Dymocks - Hopewell Centre Flying Pan Hotel Indigo Iyara Spa Let’s Spa Marriott Properties Maya Café Oliver’s Super Sandwiches Oolaa Petite Pomme Spring Learning Tamarind The Charterhouse VIM Pilates Studio Yo Mama - Star St.

CAUSEWAY BAY/ JARDINE’S LOOKOUT/ TAIKOO SHING Anne Marie Laboratoire Brecht’s Circle Brookfield Global Relocation Services CitySuper Classified -Tai Hang Dickens Bar Escapade Sports

Fleur de Sel Jeeves of Belgravia Oliver’s Super Sandwiches Outback Steakhouse Park N Shop - Jardine’s Lookout Quarry Bay School The Herbivores The Warren Yo Mama -Taikoo Shing Yo Mama - Windsor House

HAPPY VALLEY Classified Craigowner Cricket Club Movieland Park N Shop The Jockey

ISLAND SOUTH Aberdeen Marina Club Classified - Stanley Colour My World Dymocks Flex Studio Hong Kong Cricket Club Indigo - Horizon Plaza - The Repulse Bay LoveThat Lifestyle Mirth Om World - Ap Lei Chau Estate - Cyberport

Park N Shop - Aberdeen Boat Club - Baguio Villa - Chi Fu Superstore - Parkview - Stanley

Parkview Spa & Resort Sense ofTouch Shambala / Café Piatti Spices Tequila Kola The Boathouse TREE Victoria Recreation Club

TSIM SHA TSUI Bombay Dreams Castro’s Bar

CitySuper Delaney’s EastsideTavern Kowloon Cricket Club Morgan Stanley Outback Steakhouse Papi Starbucks (LCX) Swindon Books

OTHER KOWLOON D2 Place D’Oro Private Club,The Cullinan Dressed Forfar Kadoorie Hill Oliver’s Super Sandwiches -Telford Plaza Oliver’s Super Sandwiches - Enterprise Square 3 Royal Plaza Hotel United Services Recreation Club Waterfront Bar &Terrace

SAI KUNG Classified Clearwater Bay Golf & Country Club Firenze Ristorante Jaspa’s Park N Shop Clear Water Bay Pepperoni’s Piccolos Sense ofTouch

DISCOVERY BAY Discovery Bay Residents Club Dymocks Park N Shop Watson’s Wine Cellar

OTHER NEW TERRITORIES CitySuper - NewTown Plaza Courtyard Marriott Sha Tin King’s Belly



28-30 Restaurants 32-34 Museums

Instant Index Photo: Macau Government Tourist Office

24-26 Hotels

Know & Tel

36-39 Heritage 40-43 Entertainment

CONTACT US: On the following pages you’ll find a huge array of practical information. We cover more than 200 topics a year. Tell us what you need to know! Email: thelist@hkmagmedia.com

Cathedral of Macau

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Hotels Rest easy

Hard Rock Hotel Macau Looking for some glitz and glamor during your Macau stay? Look no further than the Hard Rock. Part of the City of Dreams complex on the Cotai Strip, this luxury resort has plenty of style and substance. A standard room comes with all the trappings you would expect of a five-star property—think king-sized beds and Egyptian cotton— while the luxurious corner suites boast spacious bathrooms featuring rain showers and an inviting bath. Rooms have encompassing views of the Cotai Strip. Be sure to check out the huge, circular-shaped pool, complete with swim-up bar.

Grand Lapa Macau

Banyan Tree Walking in, the first thing you might notice is that there is a giant pool in your room. Yep, the Banyan Tree is all about relaxation and is known especially for its spa services. The rooms have pretty decent views over Taipa, as well as big tubs in gorgeous bathrooms, and plush daybeds. Banyan Tree is linked to the other hotels in the Galaxy resort area by a casino.

the room during nighttime turndown. The hotel’s exclusive Bodhi Spa can offer you some pampering—the rooms here are large with enormous hot tubs that would be great for a couple’s treatment. The Pool Deck is small compared to that of surrounding hotels, but this means it tends to be quiet so you can easily grab a cabana by the Jacuzzi, waterfall or myriad mini pools.

From $2,500. Avenida Marginal Flor de Lotus, Cotai, (+853) 8883-8833, www.galaxymacau.com

From $2,298. Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, (+853) 2882-9000, www.sandscotaicentral.com

Conrad Macao

Grand Lapa Macau

The award-winning Conrad Macao offers five-star luxury from the moment you check in until the second you leave. As you would expect, the service is second to none, with sweet touches such as take-home gifts left in

Kiddies in tow? Check out the Grand Lapa Macau, which is perfect for families hauling little ones. It used to be the Mandarin Oriental, and the grand, East-meet-West accents are apparent in the grand lobby. Though the rooms are starting to show their age, the facilities more than make up for it. The resort is surprisingly large, with a huge outdoor pool, a new gym, acclaimed spa and a kids’ club. And while the little ones are playing? Get yourself booked in for a lush spa treatment—it’s one of the best facilities in Macau. From $1,100. 956-1110 Avenida da Amizade, Macau Peninsula, (+853) 2856-7888, www.grandlapa.com

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From $1,888. City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, (+853) 8868-3338, www.hardrockhotelmacau.com

Holiday Inn Macau For a dose of old Macanese charm, check out the Holiday Inn Macau. Housed in a colonial building on the Peninsula, it’s a mere 10 minutes away from the Macau Ferry Terminal. The Ruins of St. Paul’s and Senado Square aren’t far, while there are plenty of amenities at the hotel to keep you occupied. There’s the signature Tea Tree Spa featuring saunas and Jacuzzis, as well as a Roman-style indoor heated pool. From $1,500. 82-86 Rua de Pequim, Macau Peninsula, 800-968-688, www.holidayinn.com

MGM Macau Structured to evoke the South China Sea, the MGM Macau is located right on the waterfront in Macau’s central gaming district. The hotel offers large and luxurious rooms with gorgeous views as well as gloriously vast bathrooms. Inspired by the arts and regularly holding rotating exhibitions, the MGM also boasts nine signature restaurants and bars. Its myriad facilities include a sparkling infinity pool that overlooks the sea, while its Six Senses Spa offers a wide range of high-quality treatments. From $2,688. Avenida Dr. Sun Yat Sen, Macau Peninsula, (+853) 8802-1888, www.mgmmacau.com


Know & Tel

Pousada de Coloane

Sheraton Macao Hotel

Bursting with Portuguese influences, the Pousada de Coloane has retained its appeal as a simple yet romantic retreat. Though not the most easily accessible hotel in Macau—it’s far removed from the neon lights of the Cotai Strip—this 28-room inn has a quiet, intimate appeal that’s perfect for those who want to enjoy the charms of Coloane rather than throw the dice downtown. The hotel is showing its age in the common areas, but the rooms are clean with elegant four-poster beds, gigantic Jacuzzis, tiled floors and quaint terraces overlooking the sea.

The biggest Sheraton property in the world, this hotel is located on the Cotai Strip. As well as being easily accessible—it’s connected to two major hotels, the Conrad and the Holiday Inn—the Sheraton also has its own mall. There are deluxe rooms and club rooms available, as well as family suites that come with kid-sized furniture, plush toys and bunk beds, plus an adjoining full-sized room that has a king-sized bed for the grownups. The hotel is equipped with three outdoor pools with cabanas, a spa and a fitness center.

From $880. Estrada de Cheoc Van, Coloane, (+853) 2888-2143, www.hotelpcoloane.com.mo

From $1,888. Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, (+853) 2880-2000, sheratonmacao.com

the pool or jostling elbow-to-elbow at the buffet breakfast. Located on the Macau Peninsula, it’s a mere 15-minute walk to the major sights of Senado Square and the Ruins of St. Paul’s. Many of the rooms have unrestricted sea views, taking in the Macau Tower and Nam Van Lake. From $2,600. Avendia Dr. Sun Yat Sen, Macau Peninsula, (+853) 8805-8888, www.mandarinoriental.com/macau

Sofitel Macau At Ponte 16

Pousada de São Tiago Originally a 17th century fort, the Pousada de São Tiago is a beautiful hotel on the south-western tip of Macau, overlooking the Inner Harbour. It’s home to just 12 rooms, every one of them a suite. The furniture all looks antique, and bathrooms are the size of the average Hong Kong flat—complete with Jacuzzi, rainforest shower and steam room. Balconies stretch the length of the suite. A word of warning: this unique experience doesn’t come cheap.

Located on the slightly quieter end of the Macau Peninsula, Sofitel is ideal if you’re traveling with a family. The loud design—and common areas—are full of life, but maybe not so appealing if you’re after a romantic getaway. The hotel is right on the waterfront, with panoramic views of the Pearl River Delta, overlooking Zhuhai. Though getting to and from the hotel can be a bit of a headache thanks to a dearth of cabbies, once you’re there the rooms are quite comfy. From $1,250. Rua doVisconde Paco de Arcos, Macau Peninsula, (+853) 8861-0016, www.sofitel.com

Wynn Macau From the colorful lobby to the award-winning spa, the Wynn is one of the most luxurious properties in Macau. The rooms are sophisticated, with newly renovated fixtures, floorto-ceiling windows, comfy beds and opulent bathrooms. Instead of loud, rowdy casinos, the hotel sports a classy gaming area surrounded by billowing beige drapes. Though the design does have that extravagant Vegas-style feel, it’s among the best options if you’re looking for the full package: excellent service, spa, shopping, rooms and restaurants. While you’re there, splurge on the two-Michelin-starred Golden Flower restaurant, which specializes in authentic Tan Cuisine and has a lovely tea-pairing menu. From $4,188. Rua Cidade de Sintra, Macau Peninsula, (+853) 2888-9966, wynnmacau.com

From $2,600. Avenida da Republica, Macau Peninsula, (+853) 2837-8111, www.saotiago.com.mo

The Mandarin Oriental Macau If the flashing lights and casinos of the Cotai Strip fill you with dread, then the low-key but classy Mandarin Oriental is an excellent option. With just 213 rooms, you won’t be fighting for a sun lounger at

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Beat the Pack Ready to roll up to the airport with a gorgeous weekend bag? Kate Springer picks eight carryalls for flashpackers.

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1. Airbag Designed by homegrown Hong Kong talent Michael Young, the Airbag is a carry-on that looks pretty and also has some practical pockets to keep your gear sorted. $1,600 from Zixag, 40 Sai St., Sheung Wan, 2743-2511, www.zixag.com

2. Hartsfield’s Weekender There’s no reason your carryall can’t be as gorgeous as your destination: the Hartsfield tote from Want Les Essentiels de la Vie takes carry-on style to another level with an ergonomic handle design and an Italian leather base, and lots of room. $3,837 from www.wantessentiels.com

3. Carla Bag New-to-town Ril Creed is a Japanese handbag brand that offers quality leather products at approachable prices. Check out the Carla bag, which has a handy passport-sized front pouch and super-soft leather.

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$2,890 from Ril Creed, Shop 3-15E, 3/F, Sogo, 555 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2833-8338, www.rilcreed.jp

4. Rose Bag This is a sturdy little hard-case roller for quick hops. The flowery design comes with useful compartments as well as a durable PVC coating. $1,452 from Cath Kidston, Shop 8, G/F, Empire Court, 2 & 4 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2808-0792, www.cathkidston.com

5. Tegra-Lite Max For top-notch travel gear, you can’t go wrong with a fancy Tumi bag. The new Tegra-Lite Max collection is a gorgeous choice, made with scientific aircraftgrade aluminum that’s lightweight, impact-resistant, expandable, and even has special “double 360°” wheels. $6,690 from www.tumi.com

6. Earnshaw Backpack Keep things casual with an Earnshaw backpack from Jack Wills: this

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cool cotton canvas pack has big compartments and sturdy leather handles—plus it comes in three cute prints. $750 from Jack Wills, Shop L02, 77 Leighton Rd., Causeway Bay, 3105-1798, www.jackwills.com

7. Monogrammed Duffel Take a little taste of Hong Kong with you on your next jaunt—the cool monogrammed cotton duffels from Tang Tang Tang Tang come in sophisticated gray or cheery yellow. $900 from Tang Tang Tang Tang, 66 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2525-2112, www.tangtangtangtang.com

8. Voyager Duffel This pretty purple duffel is the latest design from Hong Kong favorite Mischa. The canvas bag is tough enough for a rugged adventure, and also smartly spacious with lots of separate compartments. $2,790 from www.mischadesigns.com


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Restaurants Foodie finds

servers can lead you to a perfect bottle. Don’t leave without trying the homemade serradura, aka “sawdust” dessert, which consists of layers of frozen cream and cookie crumbles. 8 Rua das Gaivotas, Coloane, (+853) 2888-2226

Golden Flower

Beijing Kitchen

Albergue 1601 Tucked away in a charming block of beautiful old colonial buildings and cobbled streets, Albergue 1601 is admittedly a not-so-well-kept secret, but it has retained its quiet charm despite its growing popularity. The quaint restaurant comes with high ceilings, creaky steps and views overlooking a square below. On cool nights, ask to sit on the outdoor patio under the camphor trees. The specialties here are the African chicken, stuffed crabs, and anything chili-based. Prices are pretty high by Macau standards, but the romantic ambience is worth it. 8 Calcada da Igreja de S. Lazaro, Macau Peninsula, (+853) 2836-1601, www.albergue1601.com

A Petisqueira This charming little Portuguese eatery is located in the heart of Taipa Village. The service, ambience, food, sangria: everything is spot on. Expect friendly service, good food, and excellent overall value. Try the seafood paella if you have a big group of people, and don’t miss out on the signature clams. Do note, though, that the resto is open for lunch till about 2:30pm, then takes a little break before opening again for

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dinner at 6:30pm. Reservations are essential. 15 Rua de S. Joao, Taipa, (+853) 2882-5354

Beijing Kitchen This rustic-chic Chinese restaurant at the Grand Hyatt is known first and foremost for its Peking duck. And yes, it’s as good as everyone says it is, thanks in part to a real wood-fired oven that gives the duck an extracrispy texture and smoky flavor. The restaurant also has a decadent dumpling menu, hand-pulled noodles, great tea offerings and excellent seasonal Sichuan dishes—think Sichuan fish, conch and even Sichuanpepper ice cream. Grand Hyatt, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, (+853) 8868-1930, macau.grand.hyatt.com.hk

Espaço Lisboa A hole-in-the-wall restaurant with a warm, residential feel, Espaço Lisboa is perfect for a romantic night out in Coloane. The steak dishes are generous, plus there are some homey Macanese casseroles that are worth a try—although pretty much everything on the menu is excellent. The wine list has a range of Portuguese varieties and prices, so there’s something for every budget. Having trouble deciding? The friendly

The chef at Golden Flower was hand-picked by the Wynn team and brought in from Beijing. Specializing in the labor-intensive Tan cuisine—a blend of the best of China’s north and south—Chef Liu Guozhu has earned two Michelin stars for the exquisite dishes here. Even if you’re not a fan of traditional Chinese cuisine, Golden Flower will have you salivating over the stewed fish maw and chicken broth, sweet-and-sour cabbage, sesame beef cups and dainty desserts.The décor is inspired too, with a striking gold, orange and turquoise palette. This is a splurge though: expect to spend anywhere between $1,000 and $1,600 per person for dinner. In any case, ask about the tea pairing menu that’s put together by the in-house tea sommelier. Wynn Macau, Rua Cidade de Sintra, Macau Peninsula, (+853) 8986-3663

Golden Peacock This Michelin-starred Indian restaurant is one reason to navigate yourself around The Venetian’s sprawling complex. A Keralan native, chef Justin Paul cooks unique, authentic dishes with spices (and unique clay serving pots) directly imported from India. You won’t find bland chicken kormas here: instead expect an exotic menu with punchy dishes, such as Kandari murgh tikka—organic chicken with baby beets and pomegranate; or the Goa-style pan-fried scallops with spicy tomato jam. Vegetarians are spoilt for


Know & Tel

choice here, with deliciously inventive meat-free combinations. Come for lunch and you can sample several at once with the generous lunch buffet spread. The Venetian Macao, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, (+853) 8118-9696

Kam Lai Heen The Grand Lapa on the Macau Peninsula boasts Chinese restaurant Kam Lai Heen, famed for its dim sum lunch. While the à la carte has all the classics, you can also try out the $798 dim sum set lunch menu, which serves a whopping eight courses. There are the usuals, like har gow and siu mai, as well as wok-fried prawns with mango and mixed veg, diced beef tenderloin, and steamed silver cod belly served in a mini bamboo basket. Grand Lapa, 956-1110, Avenida da Amizade, Macau Peninsula, (+853) 8793-3821, www.grandlapa.com

La Paloma It’s curious perhaps for a Portugueseoriented hotel to offer Spanish fare, but this restaurant at Pousada de São Tiago gets away with it by serving really, really good food. The paella Valenciana comes perfectly stuffed full of seafood and chicken. Catalan salt cod falls apart on the fork, and the crispy suckling pig seems to merge Spanish and Chinese techniques to excellent effect. It’s all very good, but not cheap: you might instead consider some tapas and a sherry on the terrace if you’re on a budget. Pousada de São Tiago, Avenida da Republica, Macau Peninsula, (+853) 2837-8111

Lord Stow’s Bakery If you want to try the quintessential Macau egg tart, look no further than Lord Stow’s. For a quieter way to enjoy the sweet snack, make the trip down to Coloane to order it fresh from the

original pastry shop (there’s also a branch at The Venetian). The village shop was opened by Englishman Andrew Stow way back in 1989, and has remained in the same place through the decades, though now there are branches in Taiwan, Hong Kong, the Philippines and Japan. If you’re craving more than an egg tart, have a full sit-down lunch at Lord Stow’s Garden Café across the square. Town Square, 1 Rua do Tassara, Coloane, (+853) 2888-2534, www.lordstow.com

Margaret’s Café e Nata This hole-in-the-wall shop is tucked down an alleyway in Macau’s historic center. It used to be a tranquil lunch spot, but you can now expect to wait in line for 20-30 minutes only to be greeted with rapid, impersonal service. Though the freshly baked egg tarts are the highlight, Margaret’s Café also serves heaving sandwiches and some tasty milk tea.

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Get there during off-peak hours to avoid the crowds. Around the rumor mill? Apparently, Margaret is the ex-wife of Lord Stow. Talk about family rivalries! 17A, G/F, Gum Loi Building, Rua Alm Costa Cabral, Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro, Macau Peninsula, (+853) 2871-0032

O Santos A bustling Portuguese eatery in Taipa Village, O Santos is one for the shortlist. It’s not a dress-up affair, but the atmosphere is convivial and the food is delicious. Head here for crispy fried sardines, big garlicky prawns, and some serious steaks. The house wine leaves something to be desired, but you can’t argue with the price ($18 for a glass). Spring for the still very reasonably priced sangria pitcher instead (from $78), a sweet but refreshing alternative. 20 Rua do Cunha, Taipa, (+853) 2882-5594, www.osantoscomidaportuguesa.com

Tasting Room Fine-dining destination Tasting Room has been given a nod by the Michelin man—it enjoys a one-star status in the prestigious culinary guidebook. Serving modern European fare, you can expect the likes of lobster, salmon and carpaccio, as well as a high-end spin on classic dishes like pumpkin soup and chicken tempura. Signature dishes include the contemporary onion soup, which is served with ice cream, and chocolate banana millefeuille. The meal doesn’t come cheap, but the Tasting Room would make an ideal spot for special occasions—or if you simply fancy splashing out. Servers provide a warm and attentive service; sink into the comfortable chairs and enjoy panoramic views of Cotai. 3/F, Crown Towers, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, (+853) 8868-6681

Take 5:

Macanese Mouthfuls Don’t miss these tempting traditional treats on your next visit.

Beef Jerky The aroma of glazed and sizzling jerky pervades many of Macau’s old-town shopping streets. Unlike its western counterpart, Macanese or Asian beef jerky is more springy, glazed with sweet sauce and chargrilled to perfection. It’s usually served in large square sheets, and is one of the most popular souvenirs to bring home. While there are many variations nowadays made with pork or wild boar plus an array of different seasonings, beef jerky remains the most classic and popular choice.

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Try it here: Tai Lei Loi Kei, 18 Largo Governador Tamagnnini Barbosa, Taipa

Portuguese Chicken Despite its name, this dish—galinha à portuguesa—is a pure Macanese creation. It’s a baked casserole dish with tender pieces of chicken, potato and onions, topped with a sweet, creamy coconut curry sauce. It’s baked until bubbling and golden and served with hot rice for a wholesome meal.

Try it here: Koi Kei, various locations, including 70-72 Rua da Felcidade, Taipa, (+853) 2893-8102

Try it here: A Lorcha, 289A Rua do Almirante Sergio, Macau Peninsula, (+853) 2831-3193

Portuguese Egg Tart

Bacalhau

Officially known as pasteis de nata, these decadent pastries were brought to Macau by the Portuguese. Unlike their Hong Kong cousins, they’re made with a flaky pastry crust instead of a shortbread crust, and filled with sweet egg custard with a caramelized top. Whilst strolling down the main shopping streets of Macau’s historic center, you’ll often smell the warm, comforting aroma of the tarts fresh from the oven—there’s nothing better. Try a variation of them with Macadamian nuts at Jeng Dau (正斗猪扒包, Rua do Cunha, Taipa).

A dried and salted cod, bacalhau is commonly found in Portuguese or Spanish cuisine, and is normally served with potatoes. In Macau, among countless usages of the fish, you’ll often find deep-fried Bacalhau balls—which are similar to croquettes: filled with a mixture of mashed potato and the salted, anchovy-like fish. They’re best when served hot and crispy.

Pork Chop Bun

O Santos

a thin portion of pork chop that’s been freshly pan-fried so it’s juicy and tender.

One of the most iconic Macanese snacks, pork chop buns are in diners everywhere: in both Macau and Hong Kong. It’s nothing fancy, just pure comfort food: a crisp sandwich made with a “piggy” bun, buttered and toasted on the inside, hugging

Try it here: Fernando’s, 9 Hac Sa Beach, Coloane, (+853) 2888-2264



Best Museums

Photo: Diego Delso/Flickr

Cultural caché

House is the first tea museum of its kind in Macau. It’s perhaps a little known fact that Macau was one of the crucial trading posts for tea exports to the west. There’s plenty of rich tea culture and heritage dotted throughout the museum, detailing different local and special tea customs. Learn all about tea—and get a chance to sample some as well. Avenida do Conselheiro Ferreira de Almeida, Macau Peninsula, (+853) 2882-7103, www.iacm.gov.mo/teamuseum

Macao Science Center

Macao Science Center

Grand Prix Museum Recently revamped, the Grand Prix Museum was first opened in 1994 to commemorate the 40th anniversary of the Macau Grand Prix. Housed at the Tourism Activities Centre, you’ll find an exclusive collection of F3 cars and motorbikes here, as well as memorabilia from some of the most legendary drivers who vied for glory at the Guia Circuit—recognized as one of the most challenging street race routes in the world. Get a feel for the circuit yourself, whizzing down roads and through tight bends, with the interactive simulators. B/F, Tourism Activities Centre, 431 Rua de Luis Gonzaga Gomes, Macau Peninsula, (+853) 8798-4108

rounded history lesson of the city. Housed in an old military fort—Mount Fortress—built by Jesuits in the 17th century, the site was previously converted into the Meteorological Services building. It now exhibits the complete and detailed history of Macau, before and after the arrival of the Portuguese in the 16th century, up to present day culture. The building is acknowledged as an UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site. Mount Fortress, 112 Praceta do Museu de Macau, Macau Peninsula, (+853) 2835-7911, www.macaumuseum.gov.mo

Macau Museum of Art

Photo: Kamsand23/Flickr

The Macau Museum of Art is made up of seven galleries featuring ancient Chinese and Macanese cultural relics and artwork. Excellent world-class exhibitions include Chinese ink and calligraphy, Shiwan ceramic works, as well as modern and contemporary masterpieces are also regularly put on show there. You can also watch free movies from the vast film collection. Avenida Xian Xing Hai, Macau Peninsula, (+853) 8791-9814, www.mam.gov.mo

Museum of Macau

Macao Tea Culture House

Make your way to the Museum of Macau if you’re in search of a well-

In the middle of the picturesque Lou Lim Ieoc Garden, the Macao Tea Culture

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Families should make a beeline for this imaginative and interactive museum, which brings science to life with hands-on tasks, puzzles, games and tests. Corkscrew your way up the inside of this cone-shaped seafront building—designed by world-renowned architect I.M. Pei—and explore themed floors ranging from health and technology to nature and eco-issues. The Science Center’s planetarium was the first in the world to be equipped with 3D and ultra high definition screening facilities, so you can expect interactive live shows and 3D movies. Avenida Dr. Sun Yat-Sen, Macau Peninsula, (+853) 2888-0822, www.msc.org.mo

Maritime Museum Styled after a ship, the Maritime Museum sits where the Portuguese are thought to have first landed, in the Square of the Barra Pagoda— dedicated to the Taoist patron goddess for fishermen, “A-Ma.” The ground floor shows the traditional way of life of Chinese fishermen, and there are more than 14 replicas of traditional Portuguese ships for visitors to marvel at. There’s also a gallery of aquariums featuring a riverbed, the harbor, a coral reef and the seabed with the remains of an ancient shipwreck. Round out your visit with a refreshing drink at the riverside esplanade bar. 1 Largo do Pagode da Barra, Macau Peninsula, (+853) 2859-5481, www.museumaritimo.gov.mo


Know & Tel

MJ Gallery A die-hard fan of Michael Jackson? You’ll want to visit the MJ Gallery located on the waterfront in Macau’s historic center. It’s the only museum dedicated to the King of Pop in all of Asia. Here you’ll find over 40 original Michael Jackson memorabilia items, including some of his stage costumes and classic fedoras, as well as his signature rhinestone-studded glove, all bought from a New York auction in 2009. 2/F, Sofitel Macau at Ponte 16, Rua do Visconde Paco de Arcos, Macau Peninsula, (+853) 8861-0016

Museum of Sacred Art and Crypt Tucked in the inner area of what used to be the Church of Mater Dei (known today as Macau’s famous Ruins of St Paul’s), the Museum of Sacred Art and Crypt houses gilded statues and antique

paintings created by Japanese and Vietnamese artists in the 17th century. Here you’ll find interesting cultural amalgamations such as the archangel Michael depicted as a samurai, as well as objects reflecting the missionary work in the East since the 17th century. Ruins of St. Paul’s, Rua de São Paulo, Macau Peninsula

Pawn Shop Museum The pawn business formed a large section of Macau’s economy in its early days, with a long history dating back to the Qing dynasty. The museum is established on the site of a famous former pawn shop—Tak Seng On—established in 1917. As the first private and public business museum in Macau, the government funded the refurbishment of the building in 2003. A year later, it received an Honourable

Mention in 2004’s UNESCO awards for Cultural Heritage Conservation. 396 Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro, Macau Peninsula, (+853) 2835-7911

Taipa Houses-Museum These five beautiful colonial-style buildings reflect the splendor of Portuguese life in Macau in the 1920s. The houses used to be residences of high officials and their families, but were revamped in the late 90s to house exhibitions showcasing early Macanese

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culture, and life specifically on Taipa. For instance, the “House of Islands” has a permanent retrospective photography exhibition of images captured before 1974, when the first bridge linking Macau and Taipa was built. The “House of the Portugal Regions” depicts different Portuguese costumes from different regions, and the “Exhibition Gallery” section hosts changing exhibitions with different historical themes, and traveling shows from abroad. Avenida da Praia, Taipa, (+853) 2882-7103, housesmuseum.iacm.gov/mo

Treasure of Sacred Art The Treasure of Sacred Art museum, is located in the bell tower of St. Dominic’s Church, next to Senado Square. Around 300 exquisite pieces of religious art and artifacts are displayed here, such as expansive collection of gold objects, statues, religious paintings, liturgical vessels, and more. Walking around the colonial baroque-style building, you get a full picture of how Portuguese Catholic missionaries worked in China. St. Dominic’s Church, Largo de São Domingos Square, Macau Peninsula, (+853) 2836-7706

Wine Museum The Wine Museum illustrates how the Portuguese introduced wine to Asia by way of Macau. Visitors are treated to both modern and traditional tools such as presses and distilling equipment from various parts of Portugal. The museum has more than 1,000 different wine labels, some of which you’ll be able to taste. B/F, Tourism Activities Centre, 431 Rua de Luis Gonzaga Gomes, Macau Peninsula, (+853) 8798-4188

Macau Fast Facts Some surprising nuggets of knowledge about our sister SAR.

What’s in a name?

Growing, growing, grown?

Macau is an adaptation of the Chinese A Ma Gao, or “place of A Ma”—a temple that stands at the entrance to the Inner Harbour in honor of the Goddess of Seafarers. This was adopted and gradually transposed by the Portuguese after their arrival in the early 1550s.

Macau started off as an island, but subsequent land reclamation transformed it into a peninsula connected to mainland China. Precolonial records show Macau was just 2.78 square kilometers end-to-end, but by 1972 had reached 15 square kilometers and by 2009, the figure rose to 29.5. At this rate, we may be able to forgo the ferry before too long!

Conflicting stories The Battle of Macau may have only lasted three days in June 1622, but it goes down in the history books as the sole major battle between two European powers on Chinese soil: the Dutch colonial campaign to swipe the Macanese territory from the Portuguese resulted in a decisive— and swift—Portuguese victory.

Sister, sister

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The Macau Light Rapid Transit (LTR) will be up and running by 2016, with three lines and 21 rail stations set to link the historic center and Cotai Strip. The Hong Kong-Zhuhai-Macao Bridge should also be complete by then, and with 42 kilometers of bridges and tunnels over and under the water between the SARs, it’s set to break current world records.

Like Hong Kong, Macau is a Special Administrative Region of the People’s Republic of China. The territory reverted to Chinese sovereignty in 1999 after more than 400 years under Portuguese reign. In celebration of the 10th anniversary of the handover, China donated two pandas—Kai Kai and Xin Xin—to Macau.

The last resort

Money, money, money

Straight stripping

Macau has an official currency, the pataca (MOP), but you’d hardly notice it on a visit. The Hong Kong dollar is so closely tied to the pataca that it’s substituted directly and all vendors accept Hong Kong dollars—although you may receive avos (small change) back. Taipa Houses-Museum

Lost in transit

A staggering 16 hotels are under construction—the majority along the Cotai Strip—with another 27 venues awaiting planning permission. They’re all trying to outdo each other in their magnitude, with The Parisian complex creating a replica of the Eiffel Tower and casino company SJM building a family theme park.

Las Vegas Strip, stocked end-to-end with major hotel resorts and casinos, has long been hailed as the gambling capital of the world. Although it may dwarf Macau in size, our sister SAR actually makes more than seven times the revenue of its US counterpart— more than $45 billion last year.



Heritage Checklist Magical history tour

Shanghai plaster, but underneath the altar inside the church, the relics of bishops from the 16th and 17th centuries are still buried. Daily, 7:30am-6:30pm. Cathedral Square, Rua da Se, Macau Peninsula

Dom Pedro V Theatre

St Augustine’s Church

Casa Garden This tranquil oasis next to Camões Square is one of the finest colonial villas in Macau, having been built in 1770 as the summer residence for the Portuguese aristocracy, politicians and a wealthy merchant named Manuel Pereira. It was then rented out to The East India Company in the early 19th century before it was converted into a museum in the 1960s. It is now the headquarters of the Oriental Foundation, but its gallery, Museo do Oriente, and gardens are open to the public.

A-Ma Temple Dating back to the 16th century, A-Ma Temple is the oldest building in Macau. Erected on the southeast peninsula, legend has it that the temple sits on the spot where the seafarers’ goddess Matsu came ashore after surviving rough seas. Named by the Portuguese, “Macau” is said to have derived from this temple’s original resounding name, “A-Ma-Gao,” meaning bay of A-Ma. You’ll find a variety of pavilions dedicated to the worship of different deities here, but one of the temple’s best features is its spherical entrance, through which you can see coils of incense burning. Daily, 7am-6pm. Largo do Pagoda da Barra, Macau Peninsula

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Daily, 6am-10pm. Rua de Coelho do Amaral, Macau Peninsula

Cathedral of Macau This minimalist Catholic church is a far cry from its magnificent European counterparts—save for the stained glass windows, you might miss the fact that this is actually one of the most important establishments in Macau. Constructed from soil and straw in 1622, the church is dedicated to the Virgin Mary and before the handover of Macau to China in 1999, every new governor of the city would proceed to the Cathedral to place his scepter next to an image of the Virgin Mary. The church’s subdued appearance is due to a rebuild in 1937 in a monotone

With a name like this, there’s no mistaking the theater’s Portuguese heritage—it being named after the country’s King Pedro V in 1860. When it was first built, it was the only westernstyle theater in China, but its neoclassical façade was not added until 1873. The venue once housed a ballroom, reading room and billiard parlor, making it an important gathering place for the Macanese community. It was also popular among businessmen, who would rent out the theater to watch films. Unlike the surrounding yellow buildings on St Augustine’s Square, Dom Pedro is painted a duck-egg green. Look out for the ancient crystal chandelier hanging in the entrance hall. Wed-Mon, 10am-6pm. St Augustine’s Square, Rua de São Lourenço, Macau Peninsula

Leal Senado Building Originally constructed in 1784 as Macau’s municipal chamber, the venue still serves the same purpose today— although it has undergone several facelifts in the past two centuries. The layout remains the same, as do the original walls and back courtyard. The name “Leal Senado” means “Loyal Senate” and comes from the title bestowed upon Macau by King Dom


Know & Tel

St Augustine’s Church

John IV in 1654: “City of Our Name of God Macau, There is None More Loyal.” The library is one of the building’s most precious rooms—opened in 1929, it is furnished with vintage pieces, including documents from the 17th century through to the 1950s.

by those around it, but it’s an excellent example of a temple that uses simple materials which incorporate a blend of western and Chinese designs.

This 16th-century church is well known throughout Macau for organizing one of the city’s most popular Easter processions, where a crucifix is carried throughout town, from the church to the Cathedral and back. The building was first constructed out of wood by a group of Spanish Augustinian priests, who actually used to reinforce the rooftop with Chinese fan palm leaves when it rained! When these blew in the wind they looked like the beard of a dragon, and so the church’s Chinese name “Long Sou Miu” was born, meaning Temple of the Long-whiskered Dragon. The existing church was rebuilt in 1874 with elegant granite columns and a vaulted ceiling.

Daily, 8am-5pm. 6 Calçada de S.Paulo, Macau Peninsula

Daily, 10am-6pm. St. Augustine’s Square, 2 Calçada do Tronco Velho, Macau Peninsula

Protestant Cemetery

St Dominic’s Church

Tues-Sun, 9am-9pm. Senado Square, Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro, Macau Peninsula

Mandarin’s House Dating from the mid-late 1800s, Mandarin’s House was the family residence of the famous Chinese literary figure Zheng Guanying. In the form of traditional Guangdong-style family housing, the building covers some 4,000-square-meters with more than 60 rooms—a real rarity for a private residence in Macau. When the Zheng family moved out, Mandarin House was rented out, sometimes to more than 300 tenants at a time. Over the years, the property sustained so much damage that it became barely recognizable. It has since been carefully restored to its former glory and is open to visitors. Thurs-Tues, 10am-6pm. 10 Travessa de Antonio da Silva, Macau Peninsula

Moorish Barracks These former barracks were built in 1874 on the slopes of Barra Hill by an Italian architect, in the Moorish style—note the very ornate-looking pointed arches and rooftop. The building originally housed Indian soldiers from Goa, who had arrived to boost Macau’s police force; it now houses the Macao Maritime Administration. The brickwork is painted an elegant light yellow, surrounded by wide verandas on three sides: a reflection of the architecture’s Islamic influences. Only the veranda is open to the public. Daily, 9am-6pm. Calçada da Barra, Macau Peninsula

Na Tcha Temple This small traditional Chinese temple was built in 1888, dedicated to Na Tcha—a deity believed to protect children—in an attempt to halt a plague that was raging the city at the time. The diminutive building may be dwarfed

This was Macau’s first Protestant burial ground, and was originally named the East India Company Cemetery. The site, and an accompanying chapel, were both built in 1821. If you wander between the headstones you’ll see the names of some famous officials from Britain, the US, Germany and the Netherlands. See if you can spot the dedication to British artist George Chinnery. Daily, 8:30am-5:30pm. Luis De Camões Garden, Rua de Coelho do Amara, Macau Peninsula

Section of the Old City Walls There is only one small segment remaining of the city’s original defense structure—close to the Ruins of St Paul’s—which was built in the mid1500s by the Portuguese to protect the city’s port settlements. Early maps show that as well as the western Inner Harbour, this wall actually encased the entire city and was additionally defended by forts. Local materials were used to construct the wall, including a compound called “chunamo,” which was a mix of more traditional European elements such as clay, soil and sand, along with rice straw and oyster shells. Rua Horta da Companhia

Built in the late 16th century, St. Dominic’s (São Domingos) is widely regarded as one of the city’s most beautiful churches—it’s painted in bright yellow! An architectural masterpiece in itself, the building is also home to the Treasure of Sacred Art, a rare (and rather creepy) collection of religious works that was sent over from Portugal for safekeeping when the Religious Orders were abolished in 1834. This tiny museum houses as many as 300 objects, from oil paintings and stone sculptures to richly ornamented canonicals and liturgical vessels. Worth a visit if you’re in the area. Daily, 10am-6pm. Largo de São Domingos, Rua Domingos, Macau Peninsula

Protestant Cemetery

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Photo: Uvacavmatt/Wiki

Shopping Located close to the Macau border, Gongbei is Zhuhai’s main tourist district. Here you’ll find cheap souvenirs and clothes. There is also a huge underground shopping complex right under the Macau border crossing—not a bad way to while away an afternoon.

Dining

Macau’s less glitzy neighbor, Zhuhai, is a gentle, coastal city that sits on the Pearl River Delta. Just a short hop away from Macau, it has plenty to offer.

Drinking Stay away from the slightly shady Lianhua Lu (aka Walking Street) and head for Shuiwan Bar Street, also in the Gongbei district. The lively street is filled with alfresco bars and live music joints.

Like many other coastal cities in China, seafood is a specialty here. Don’t miss the street food in the Jinding district’s BBQ night market. Alternatively, Wanzai—where ferry access to Macau is located—has a seafood street. Pick your own fish (hard bargaining is par for the course) and have it cooked. Want to go high-end? Check out Deyuefang seafood restaurant. Much like our own floating

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Photo: Uvacavmatt/Wiki

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restaurant, Jumbo Kingdom, Deyuefang is a flashy seafood eatery on water, that is decked out like a ship.


Know & Tel

Staying Zhuhai has a few five-star properties, which you’ll find to be much less crowded than those in Macau, as well as much more affordable. To give you a couple of ideas: There is a Club Med property on Dong’ao Island, and a new branch of the Sheraton is due to open in November in Wanzai.

From Hong Kong: Ferries run every two hours or so from the Macau Ferry Terminal in Sheung Wan or the China Ferry Terminal in Tsim Sha Tsui, to Zhuhai Jiuzhou Port. Tickets start at $210 one way; visit www.cksp.com.hk for ferry times.

Zhuhai

Jiuzhou Port

Rd .

From Macau: Zhuhai can be reached from Macau on foot through border control. The process normally takes under 30 minutes. However, it would be wise to factor in some extra time—especially if you need a visa.

Sh ui w an

Getting There

Zhuhai is known as “the city of a hundred islands.” If you have enough time, take an excursion to one of them: some are remote, sleepy fishing towns, such as Guishan Island, and some come with secluded beaches, like Dong’ao Island. Both can be reached from the Xiangzhou Northern Wharf.

Rd. Jinding

Island-hopping

Gongbei Bus Station Gongbei Customs

Wanzai

Visa: If you need a visa to enter China, you can apply for a three-day, local-area visa when you arrive. Prices vary by nationality, between around $225 to $630.

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Entertainment Bars and beyond

the order of the day, although there are classic cocktails as well as wines on offer. Don’t miss the huge disco ball that can hold up to four people inside! 2/F, Hard Rock Hotel, City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, (+853) 6638-4999, www.cubic-cod.com

Macallan Whisky Bar and Lounge

Taboo

180° Lounge On the 39th floor of the Macau Tower sits the 180° Lounge, which boasts, yup, you guessed it, 180-degree views of the Macau skyline. The bar is only open to visitors who purchase the VIP Sky High Experience Package, which gets you entry to the Tower, the use of its telescopes (essential), plus free snacks and drinks at 180°. The package is $198 for adults and $100 for children, purchased from the Tower, which is not a bad price at all. Packages with ferry are available from www.shuntaktravel.com. 59/F, Macau Tower, Largo da Torre de Macau, Macau Peninsula, (+853) 8988-8659

Bar Azul Expect an elegant setting at the Four Season’s Bar Azul, although without the stuffiness you might expect of a hotel bar. There is live entertainment every night and a selection of top-notch

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tipples. Delicious Asian-inspired snacks are also available—expect to see lots of seafood on the menu. Azul being the Portuguese word for blue, you can expect the bar to be all decked out in myriad aquatic hues. Four Seasons Macau, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, (+853) 2881-8888

Whisky fans, this one is for you. The Macallan Whisky Bar and Lounge houses one of Asia’s largest collection of whiskies, including plenty from its legendary namesake—the Scottish brand’s origins can be traced back to the 16th century. Apart from an array of house signatures, the bar showcases some of the brand’s distinctive produce, such as the Macallan Fine and Rare Series. But don’t think Scotch malts are all you’re gonna get here—whiskies and bourbons from the US, Ireland, England and Japan, as well as a good selection of wine, constitute a comprehensive drinks list. Shop 2, 2/F, Galaxy Macau, Avenida Marginal Flor de Lotus, Cotai(+853) 8883-2221

China Rouge The Galaxy Macau’s nightclub China Rouge is an opulent, Chinoiserie-style den, inspired by the salons of 1930s Shanghai. On its deep red walls hang artworks by some of China’s biggest contemporary artists. The club brings in live entertainment from all over the world on a regular basis, including singers, rappers and dance groups. Galaxy Macau Resort, Avenida Marginal Flor de Lotus, Cotai, (+853) 2888-0888

Club Cubic Macau’s most famous nightclub, Club Cubic doesn’t hold back on the extravagance. Try not to get lost in its many themed rooms: there’s a futuristic white junior hall, a Perrier-Jouët champagne bar, and a dark and mystical main dance space. There are also six VIP karaoke rooms, each with its own unique theme, for guests that crave some privacy. Champagne with sparklers or shooters are

Macau Soul Macau Soul puts good food, good wine, and good music together in one beautiful location. The wine bar is fitted with elegant Chinese furniture and other interesting knick-knacks, making it a fun setting for the regular live performances by musicians who play an eclectic mix of genres. You’ll find a huge range of Portuguese wines on offer, including some that are sold by the half bottle, along with a menu that offers selections of local charcuterie, plus home-baked breads and cakes. 31A Rua de São Paulo, Macau Peninsula, (+853) 2836-5182, macausoul.com


Know & Tel

Taboo Taboo, the signature sexy cabaret show at the Hard Rock Hotel garnered plenty of rave reviews when it launched in 2012. Created by Franco Dragone, who’s also behind House of Dancing Water, the show is back for another long run this year. Five nights a week, Taboo features sexy dancers displaying some seriously impressive acrobatics, as well as Beyoncé-worthy singing skills. Sit back and order a glass of bubbly or two from the Perrier-Jouët champagne bar to complete your saucy night out. There are hotel room and show packages available too, if you don’t want to return to Hong Kong afterwards. Hard Rock Hotel, City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, (+853) 6638-4999

Venetian Theatre The Venetian Theatre offers regular shows and performances in a lavish setting. Situated inside The Venetian Macao, it has hosted plenty of famed international singers in the past, including the China National Symphony Orchestra, Chinese singer Elisa Chan, and even Swan Lake on Ice. Visit the website to stay up-to-date with upcoming events and productions. The Venetian Macao, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, (+853) 2882-8888, www.venetianmacao.com

Vida Rica Bar The Mandarin Oriental’s Vida Rica Bar is a classy joint on the peninsula side of Macau that you shouldn’t miss. The double-height windows afford a dramatic view of the Macau skyline, making it a prime spot to catch the city’s regular fireworks. Try one of the painstakingly created cocktails, including the signature Mo Man Tai, a pineapplebased drink that’s sure to quench your thirst. Vida Rica has a “cocktail of the week” promotion, featuring special creations: these drinks are not on the menu, but they’re available all year round. The Mandarin Oriental, Avenida Dr. Sun YatSen, Macau Peninsula, (+853) 8805-8928

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Take 5:

Outdoor Ideas There’s so much more to Macau than its casinos—get out and about with our handy guide.

Hiking Your hiking boots and shorts may not be the first thing you think of packing for a weekend in Macau, but there are some good trails to tackle. A large portion of the interconnecting isles of Taipa and Coloane is given over to wilderness—alright, the trails may be all marked, but you can still get off the beaten track for a few hours, climb a few hills and enjoy the incredible views out over the city and the Pearl River. There are several trails through Coloane Park taking in the Hac Sá Reservoir, or to the more northerly Ka Ho Reservoir.

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The 18-hole Macau Golf and Country Club, on the south of Coloane island behind the Grand Coloane Resort, is one of the most beautiful courses in southern China, boasting scenic vistas of the South China Sea in verdant, quiet surrounds. The world’s best players have swung through here for the prestigious Macau Open, so if you fancy following in their footsteps, contact the club for membership details. Estrada de Hac Sá, Coloane, (+853) 2887-1188, www.mgccmacau.com

Watersports Venture outside your hotel pool and try a spot of watersports at one of Macau’s long beaches, or at its secluded reservoirs. At Cheoc Van Beach (also known as Bamboo Bay), there’s a nautical center offering lessons in canoeing, windsurfing or sailing, as well as a separate beachside swimming pool that’s open


Know & Tel

into the evening. Nearby Hac Sá Reservoir is more suited to families with its protected environment and pedal boats for hire. Estrada de Hac Sá, Coloane

Horse racing It’s not only Hong Kong that attracts crowds for the horse racing: Macau Jockey Club runs year-round with two mid-week races, one on Friday nights and another on weekends. The set-up is based on its Hong Kong Jockey Club counterpart, but it has only been running since 1989. At its Taipa racecourse, competitions can take place on two tracks—sand and grass—with up to 15,000 spectators watching from the four-story grandstand. The big races that rock the stadium are the Macau Derby in April and the Macau Gold Cup in May. Rua de Braga, Taipa, (+853) 2882-0868, www.mjc.mo

Go-Karting This is one for the adults as well as the youngsters: Macao Motorsports Club boasts a 1.2km-long track that’s ranked as one of the most challenging go-kart tracks in Asia. It’s not one for the faint-hearted, with regularly hosted international competitions, spectator stands and restaurants ensuring that this is an energetic day out rather than a cruise around the block. It’s not cheap though—expect to pay $180 per kart (including safety equipment) for 15 minutes on the tarmac. Estrada de Seac Pai Van, Coloane, (+853) 2888-2126

Hac Sá Reservoir

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Property

Home Hunting Best Time to Rent Dear Anne-Marie, How are you doing? I am looking for a property to rent in an expat area. My husband and I are living in Tsim Sha Tsui at the moment, and we are thinking to move to a quiet area. Would you please suggest if there is a best time for rent? Would it be cheaper in some particular months and is there a low season? Would that be easier to negotiate for the rent in low season and how much percentage lower can we try? What would the differences might be? I am sorry I have a lot of questions. I have done some research about Sai Kung and really like that area. However, my friends told me the traffic is a nightmare which might take more than an hour to drive to Kowloon. So I will consider also Clearwater Bay if traffic is better. Also for the rent, will there be huge difference between the two? Any suggestion / recommendation will be greatly appreciated. All is well here in the world of residential real estate, thank you! In Hong Kong, we find that the market has the widest choice of properties just before the summer holidays, when people are relocating out of Hong Kong (remember though that this is also a time when a lot of new people are coming to Hong Kong). A double-edged sword, I am afraid. Unfortunately, there isn’t a particular low season when it comes to property

prices in Hong Kong. Landlords are very savvy and keep on top of the market. In fact, in the current market, we have seen that any properties under HK$80,000 that are of good quality and in a great location will move quickly. Sai Kung and Clearwater Bay are great areas and, yes, it is true that the traffic in Sai Kung can be more congested than that in Clearwater Bay, especially on weekends. You would definitely need to have a car if you live in those areas. On the other hand, Clearwater Bay properties tend to be more expensive than those in Sai Kung. We love questions—the more of them, the better! If you would like to talk in more detail or even see some properties in the Sai Kung area, please don’t hesitate to let us know. Happy house-hunting!

Rent Negotiation Dear Anne-Marie, I enjoy reading your column every month! And I hope you can help us with our rent problem. We have been living in an apartment in Central for the last two years and we enjoy our place very much. The rent we are currently paying is at the upper end of what we are willing to pay but the area is wonderful - lots of restaurants, bars and quick to get to work. Our tenancy renewal is due at the end of next month but our landlords have asked for a huge increase in the monthly rent - by over 30%! It is a huge increase but I am worried that if this happens everywhere in Hong Kong because my friends told me they had the same experience. Overall our tenancy has been stressfree. I am not sure if they are taking us expats for a ride or if this is

the way it is for HK property. Our landlords are HK locals, but we communicate with them via their lawyers. Do you think there are chances I can negotiate a lower price or should I just move? Moving at the end of the year would be stressful and costly. Would really appreciate your advice on this issue. It’s fantastic that you find our column helpful! Yes, Central is a fantastic area to live in, especially with its easy access to restaurants, bars and, of course, workplaces. Sadly, the fact that your landlord has asked for a rental increase of over 30% doesn’t surprise me. Landlords in Hong Kong are in touch with market but also know that moving can be stressful and hope that you weigh up the options and just decide to stay. I would suggest that you definitely try and go back to your landlord to negotiate a lower increase. It might also be a good idea to have a little look around. We have a great team here at JLL who know the Central market well, and we would love to show you around! Just let us know and, hopefully, we can help. Good luck!

Got property related questions? Ask the expert. Your questions will be answered in this column on the 15th of every month, exclusively in The List!

Anne-Marie Sage Head of Residential Leasing and Relocation Services, Hong Kong Jones Lang LaSalle Tel: (852) 2846 5638 anne-marie.sage@ap.jll.com

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Baby Pak Choi

A pregnancy column with Sarah Fung

Some Love for Pregnancy “Sarah, I love your blog. But you spend a lot of time on it complaining about being pregnant,” said Daddy Pak Choi one night. “I do not!” I replied indignantly, before realizing that between the sleeplessness, the gestational diabetes, the banned foodstuffs and the hellscape that was the first trimester, I HAVE spent a lot of time moaning about being knocked up.

3. Tiny clothes Tiny booties and onesies and scratch mitts and baby hats—they’re all so cute and small and I will have my very own cute and small person to put them on soon enough.

4. A newfound appreciation for your body At first I fretted about losing my figure. Not that Sports Illustrated was knocking down my door, but I enjoy flaunting my Yes, there are some aspects of modest assets as much as the next pregnancy that are a pain in the I’m actually going to person. It’s amazing how quickly ass (sometimes literally), but it’s far that worry about changing shape miss having my little buddy from horrible. It’s high time I gave falls away when your body is in the pregnancy a little bit of love. Here with me all the time. process of creating a small human. are my best pregnancy moments: Want true emancipation from the 1. Feeling your baby move tyranny of female body politics? Get I was kind of dreading the foetus starting to move inside knocked up and your muffin top perspective transforms me, mostly because of the infamous chestburster scene from “bag of imperfect, neuroses-inducing flesh” in “Aliens”, but actually, it’s rather lovely—and definitely to “miraculous vessel for new life.” the moment it really hits home that there’s a tiny baby in 5. Good vibes there. I’m actually going to miss having my little buddy There’s something about a pregnant lady that people with me all the time, constantly making her presence are just drawn to. Strangers in lifts ask if you’re having a known with little wiggles and stretches. Feeling a little boy or a girl; random people in the street smile at you. foot poking me in the side or a big movement as she Cleaning ladies tell you to watch your step. Friends are rolls over is really quite sweet. (for the most part) genuinely interested—and of course, 2. Ultrasounds aunties, grandmas and great-grandmas are over the Ultrasounds are magic! I can’t believe that they were moon with excitement. No wonder pregnant women barely available just 25 years ago. What did people do are always radiating good energy. Let’s see how long before then? Just wait around for the baby to come out? that glow lasts when I’m trying to get a stroller up a (Well, yes.) You know that bit in the movies where the flight of stairs. couple goes for a scan and they’re bickering and then the fuzzy little blob appears on screen and they hold Follow Sarah’s journey through pregnancy hands and dad cries a bit? It’s exactly like that. and parenthood at babypakchoi.tumblr.com. 50


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