Criolla Restaurant

A Culinary Experience Worth the Drive

By Natalie Downey

Not too far away towards the outskirts of Phenix City sits a dining location in a league of its own. Driving out to Criolla, you find the city fading away behind you, as office buildings give way to grassy meadows, the restaurant comes into view, a humble red-roofed shack that needs no flashing lights: the food is the beacon that brings people from all over.

The restaurant is off a quiet, almost forgotten road. A comfortable and casual atmosphere makes it known that at Criolla, it’s all about the food. Regulars take their spots, anticipating their meal, telling me it’s the best food they’ve ever had while I peruse the menus on each side of the walls and try to decide. They say, “You can’t go wrong. It’s all delicious.”

Chef David Rushing

Originally from Panama City, Criolla’s owner and chef David Rushing has much experience working at fine dining restaurants across the southeast. He spent time running restaurants such as the Country Club of Columbus and Meritage in the early 2000’s before returning to the place he grew up, to care for his ailing grandmother. While in Florida, David and his family survived Hurricane Michael, a category 5 disaster that destroyed much of Panama City and Mexico Beach including the homes of David and his family. “We lost everything,” David says.

A house with power and water brought David back to the area in 2018 after he lost his home. Upon returning, David continued doing what he had been doing for his entire adult life: cooking delicious food.

David’s culinary background is rooted in his childhood, with memories of his grandmothers cooking memorable dishes. One grandmother was French Cajun, the other was a “redneck from the country,” David recalls. Both sides have had a lasting influence on his culinary style. “I have recipes I’ve known my whole life,” David says.

At just the age of 15, David took a serious interest in cooking, and began working under some big name chefs in Panama City shortly after. As he gained experience in the kitchen, David’s interest grew. He went on to attend the Gulf Coast Community College culinary program, one of the top culinary programs in the southeast. After college, David made his way up to Atlanta where he interned at Pano’s and Paul’s, widely considered one of Atlanta’s finest dining restaurants.

David’s experience grew in the kitchens of the top restaurants in the southeast. Working in Canopies restaurant in Panama City with chef Paul Stelloto, one of the top 50 chefs in North America. David also ran Saltwater Grill in Panama City for years, he worked as the Executive Sous Chef at Edgewater Beach Resort and he worked with Emerill at Commander’s Palace in New Orleans for 4 years as the Executive Sous Chef.

David’s experience has earned him prestigious awards too, such as the DiRoNa award (Distinguished Restaurants of North America), the Galloping Gourmet award, which he won three years in a row, the May County Culinary Classic, and more.

Food has become a way of life for David. Cooking isn’t just in his blood, it’s in his very soul, and he finds his way into a kitchen wherever he goes, all while raising his two boys.

In 2018, after David returned to the Columbus area from a storm-torn Panama City, he decided to do what came naturally to him: open a restaurant.

The culmination of David’s culinary experience is Criolla, an off-the-beaten-path place featuring upscale American “southern cooking, focused on the flavors of the northern gulf coast”, as his sign reads in front of the restaurant.

Opening a restaurant in the first part of 2019, David had no idea what was right around the corner. With a hugely positive response from the community, David remembers the first six months Criolla was open - “I had to beat them off with a stick,” he laughs. “Every night we were packed to the gills.” Unfortunately, covid came not long after the restaurant opened, forcing David to temporarily shut down the dining room and try to stay afloat on take out orders. “Somehow we stayed in business,” he says.

After weathering that rough patch, Criolla’s comeback is going full steam ahead – and the restaurant is getting noticed. “Criolla is the type of place that is known for the food – that’s what matters, of course - not splashy advertising or gimmicky themes”, says one of the restaurant’s regulars. That singular focus on making great food is why you can get a taste of great culinary flavors without having to reach too deep in your pockets, and it’s why word of mouth is the primary reason curious customers find their way to the door.

The menu is built each week around the seafood David is able to bring in. The menu changes weekly, but some local favorites stay: the shrimp and grits, stuffed grouper, crab cakes and she-crab soup are top favorites and permanent menu items. A new offering is the Wednesday night seafood buffet including crab legs, an absolute steal at only $38 per person (just take note, that prices vary depending on the week and market prices).

With extensive catering experience, David also offers Criolla’s special menu - for weddings, events, corporate events, and more. As Criolla continues to regroup after the covid setbacks, future plans include additional work to add an outdoor bar area in the courtyard. The bar area will have a stage and David hopes to bring in live music when it’s finished.

Criolla is a hidden culinary gem for the curious, tucked away in the backroads of east Alabama. With its fusion of southern fine dining and coastal roots, Criolla is a must for those seeking great taste without the hefty price tag. Make sure to check their Facebook page every Tuesday for the week’s menu items. Criolla is currently open Wednesday - Saturday from 5:00 - 9:00 pm EST, and Sundays from 11:00 am - 2:00 pm. The restaurant is located at 4100 Sandfort Road in Phenix City (near Ladonia).