4 ed Issue:
Seoul
New York
Toronto
Montréal
ife is what you make it—there are no real rules other than sometimes to follow that inner voice, your heart. That is what happened to me when I decided to take the Tea Sommelier Program during a time when I was recovering from breast cancer. This, in turn, led me back to my Chinese upbringing where food was medicine, but also back to tea. I was hesitant at first, because tea is not something you can pick up in a 2 year program, and as Jane Pettigrew, a tea master sommelier from London once told me, “tea is a lifelong lesson”. After thousands of cups of tea, along with evaluating the leaf, both dry and wet, I find it a hard habit to break. I always examine the brewed leaves. I have enjoyed afternoon tea at the best hotels in Paris, and after the brew, I take out the leaves to to look at them. Many a time I find that paying $30 for a pot of tea, and then having it served incorrectly destroys the taste profile. Leaves need room to expand when in water, not jammed so tight they cannot fully open. When I don’t get the taste profile expected, I double check the bag. I find that altered taste profiles are almost always the result of tea bags that have been too tightly stuffed. This is the day of the ‘no plastic movement’ which should extend to synthetic tea bags, which are often plastic. The latest research has shown that billions of micro plastics in each tea bag are released in each of our brews. That is why loose leaf in the pot where the leaves can expand freely and are served with a tea strainer is the best option for taste and health. The other tried and true is the grandfather Chinese style, where you throw loose leaf in a cup and keep refilling it. Less formal, but workable to make any moment special without the fuss and to get full brews. So, yes, a tea sommelier should have special knowledge and spend time researching the best and unique teas. Above all, she or he must
remember that each tea is unique, getting its special qualities that reflect the terroir and climate. Even regional water used to brew tea makes a difference, noting New York has the best water from its extensive watersheds supplied by the three major water systems of Croton, Catskill and Delaware. While tea made in London tastes the worst—classified as hard floor with lots of minerals affecting its taste. Remember, also that our taste buds are unique and one taste that is acceptable to one- person’s tastes are different because the sensory capacities of your taste buds are different depending on the structure of the receptors. So, the tea sommelier may recommend certain teas, but do not be surprised if your taste buds disagree with that “professional recommendation”. As part of your tea journey, always remember that your taste is unique. No matter what anyone may say, you are “the last word” for you. Just take time to enjoy tea. The beverage has been around for thousands of years. Keep it simple and love it! Publisher & Certified Tea Sommelier
www.theloveoftea.ca *GUEST WRITERS The Love of Tea Mag accepts freelance articles from tea enthusiasts. The writers are tea lovers and like each one of us, has a story to share over a cup of tea. All articles, photographs, artwork and illustrations are ©Copyright by The Love of Tea Mag and it’s affiliated Artists/writers and cannot be reproduced without written permission from The Love of Tea Mag.
The Love of Tea Mag
Seoul CaféShow 2020
The Afghan Tea Room
Saffron Tea Recipe
Montréal, Paris of the North
Camellia Sinensis
Orange Chocolate Cake—vegan
Ritz Carlton—Afternoon Tea—Montreal
Afternoon Tea Biscuits Anytime Recipe
The Most Famous Tea Clipper of them All
Table
Edition Four
of Contents
Lucknow Shadows of Empire
Kenyan Tea
The Whitby, New York City—Afternoon Tea
Mediterranean Frittada Vegan Recipe
Baccarat Hotel Afternoon Tea, NYC
Lemon Madelaines Recipe
The T word GUEST WRITER
! a e t s e d u l c s n r Iea love miss it! T don’t
WHY PEOPLE ARE DRINKING M By Carol Mark
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ea has always been a force in my life, as part of my routine an more Western culture did I lose my connection with tea. In No and it is often associated with old school. I could only get my t the tea culture is very much alive with the average Brit d billion cups a year.
In the twenty first century, there has been a resurgence taking time in a hectic tech world. This concept has take world of tea. Tea is rich in polyphenols that have health and a supposed aid in fighting cancer.
Tea is a local and global business. Local means using lo globally. With technology, no matter what your brand, th consumer thirst for new tastes. Fermentation, especially kombucha, is gaining rave responses. The art of fermentation goes back to the origins of China and the Tea Silk Road trade route. Kombucha is a fermented effervescent black or green tea beverage that is touted to be healthy due to the probiotics that contribute to a healthy gut. The gut is the basis of a healthy immune system. Teazen Kombucha, drink on the go with a bottle and 50 individually packaged packets of the kombucha with flavours of lemon, berry, yuzu and many others. So instead of struggling to keep your kombucha mother or scoby healthy for your next fermentation, just reach for your Tenzen’s bottle and instant packets of healthiness.
Kew & Leaves, is a tea brand born from the founder’s International travel and influences, and then built from traditional local tastes, creating u blends. For instance, utilizing oranges from Jeju Island or local yuzu, or an English breakfast tea whose astringent notes are subdued with Korea black bean notes. Unique blends that celebrate past, but acknowledge the future. Unique quality blends such as Seoul Breakfast, a black tea bas with black bean, or Lemony Oolong with lemon and lemon myrtle.
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One of the main reasons there is a resurgence in tea is the increasing awareness of clean and healthy foods, including beverages. On a recent trip across the Atlantic Ocean aboard the famous Cunard’s Queen Mary luxury liner, I was pampered with afternoon teas from New York to Southhampton. Once off the liner, I went off to Harrods, the famous food emporium, established in 1849, to buy tea. The abundance of tea was suddenly mind boggling, and I picked up some well known brands. I also found ones that were less traditional and health oriented. On one of my tea buying binges I spotted a uniquely designed box of Pukka Tea, based on Ayurvedic principles founded by Sebastian Pole and Tim Westwell. The brand is deeply committed to building a sustainable future. Turmeric root is blended with lemon fruit, cardamon and whole green leaf tea in a product line called Turmeric Gold, which is all organic. It has the health benefits of boosting the immune system, helping to prevent cancer, reducing arthritis symptoms and acting as a digestive aid. As a tea it is the most effective way of delivering these benefits. See us at CafeShow 2020
By Carol Mark
M
ost people outside of Korea think of Korean tea culture as consisting primarily of Barley Tea. For Koreans, tea is more of an experience steeped in spirituality. This is because Korean Buddhist tea ceremonies focus on spiritual awakening. Also, unknown to many ceramic enthusiasts is that Korean tea bowls are treasured collected tea ware in Japan. After the war in the1500’s many of the skilled Korean craftspeople left Korea to go to Japan. It is believed that the first tea drinking in Korea began during the Silla Dynasty (57 B.C.-A.D. 668)and was brought from China by Buddhists. However legend says that the teas from China were displaced by a tea plant native to Korea, known as Paeksan-ch’a. This was a white tea which grew on Mt. Paektusan, reputed to be as ancient as Korea’s Ko-Chosun period (2333-108. B.C.) This ancestor of Korea’s tea culture is still drunk in the region of Mt. Paektusan. The Korean tea ceremony known as “darye-tea rite” has been practised for over a thousand years, initially as a religious ceremony shifting to a common practice used in celebrating the anniversary of an ancestor’s death. This is the history, the past of
tea in Korea, but… …Fast forward to Seoul, Korea today and we have a strong coffee culture influenced by the west. However, tea is making a comeback in new ways. Especially with the pressures of modern life, more people are turning to tea as a place of zen, tranquility and health. The Seoul Cafe Show brings coffee enthusiasts the best in coffee brew, but there is an additional innovation in tea culture. Ranging from the newest functional teas that combine health and wellness to new twists on tradition with P & T Teas along with their boxed sets proudly displaying “YOU DRINK COFFEE - I DRINK TEA MY DEAR.” A tongue in cheek taking a swipe at the present coffee culture. As with coffee lattes, how about Hälssen & Lyons Tea Lattes, who wouldn’t love a tea latte! Tastar Teas covers the gamut from traditional; Breakfast Tea Collection to The Feel-good collection as well as Health & Beauty Collection. Prana Chai bringing the tradition of Chai inspired by travels throughout Asia, crafted from Australia. Using natural pure spices and honey they bring unique blends to your cup. For tea purists, Ceylon Tea to your table by Akbar and fruit teas by Jardin. To round out your afternoon tea experience, handmade French macarons from Double Sweet ranging from Black Sesame to Crème brûlée. Be proud to display these kettles, works of art by Tabella and Brewista. Tableware china to enhance your tea experience from Chloe’s Home and Antiques put a finishing touch for a celebrated sophisticated tea. These are one of a kind unique china and tea accessories that would be a focal part for the art of tea. No longer does china reside in the display case but is used with pride in the everyday. No matter what you are looking in tea, you will be surprised by the range of traditional to modernity at the Seoul Cafe Show.
SEOUL, A CITY OF DUALITY By Fiona Hartmann Fiona Hartmann is an avid traveler who is always looking to embark on the next adventure. She has her B.A. in English Literature and minor in history from McGill University. She is an aspiring author looking for inspiration in the farthest reaches of the globe.
S
eoul is a city of tradition and modernity, where history meets the ideas of the future. I journeyed through unique sites throughout the city that each made me contemplate what it means to live in this modern world. To visit Bukchon Hanok Village is to be transported back six hundred years ago, where I see homes constructed in the traditional style of Korean architecture, called hanoks. A hanok is characterized by its wooden frame and the curved, tiled roofs, and in constructing a hanok the surrounding environment was just as important to take into consideration, as the home and nature were to exist in harmony. This area was originally home to high ranking government officials and nobility and now has a little under ten thousand residents who continue to live there and is area filled with art galleries, cozy cafes and boutiques. To complete the experience, it is possible to rent a hanbok to walk around the village, which is a traditional Korean dress which was used for special occasions such as festivals, celebrations, and ceremonies. Down every narrow alley and around every bend is another glimpse of
history frozen in time.
Nan & Kebob is located on the longest street in the world, at 691 Yonge Street, Toronto. What I love is the dedication to authentic Afghan food and tea, which I experienced personally in Afghanistan. But now you don’t have to go that far,The Afghan Tea room has homemade tastes with a touch of culture. Tea is an important part of Afghan history as well as an act of hospitality. My best tea memory being served tea by the widows and children of that war torn country to brew tea. Tea is kept for special guests and they serve it with a sugared coffee flavoured hard candy. Over the tea, we laughed and shared our stories even though we did not speak the same language, other than through the story of tea. Trust me. The Afghan Tea Room is truly authentic.
GREEN TEA WITH SAFFRON--The Drink of Kings
Afghan Saffron Green Tea A taste of the history of the Silk Tea Road from China to Afghanistan Saffron is the most expensive spice in the world, more expensive than gold. The saffron threads are collected by hand from the stamens of crocus flowers. I use saffron from Afghanistan. Soak 3 - 4 strands for 2 cups of tea. Place in a bowl with 2 tbsp of warm water and let sit 20 mins. Make green tea in a tea pot, wetting leaves first, then add water just under the boil (boiling water will burn green tea leaves making them bitter). Add saffron solution. Steep 5 mins and serve. * Recipes developed & tested in my test kitchen
M O N T R É A L
Par� of the North
Julie, our tea server, an expert in tea & grace.
CAMELLIA SINENSIS Cafe-- sign says it all NO WIFI/NO PHONE “tech free zone” A sign of the new era where one can refresh oneself much like meditation with tea. * Uses loose leaf teas
e n y o c s a G Kevin
Kevin Gascoyne Tea Tasting Expert at Camellia Sinensis Kevin Gascoyne, tea expert, comes across as passionate and intense in his love of tea going far and deep, back to his roots in Yorkshire, England. Where a “good cuppa”is taken seriously and where tea is strong and bold on the palate. The local famous boxed Yorkshire Tea, created by Taylors of Harrogate in1977, captures that boldness. The blend was based on the Yorkshire water supply, noting on their tea boxes specifically for “hard water”. In 1962 Betty’s Tea Rooms bought the firm, and became part of their corporate global family tea shop. Growing up as a young man, Kevin drank Yorkshire Tea in Yorkshire, I know its strength and depth provide a good stiff cuppa. I felt immediately that it was just the sort of tea for the rugged the Yorkshire countryside with its chilly mornings and misty moors, leaving little room for outside tea competitors. Kevin first got interested in tea by backpacking in India at age 19 and tasting Darjeeling Tea from the Himalayas in India- he was hooked- “a game changer”. Apparently, for Kevin his first tea love remains to this day, and Darjeeling remains his top favourite despite having opportunities to taste thousands of teas. Darjeeling tea is a golden amber coloured tea with floral and muscatel notes.Darjeeling is known as the “Champagne of Tea” and is highly prized and classified as teas grown within a certain region on estates in Darjeeling. Tea, like wine, reflects the terroir -climate, soil, altitude, and latitude.
Kevin chuckles stating that, “the type of tea I drank 20-25 years ago —only weird people were plugging exotic Asian products”. Today, with social media and the different types of teas available, including Taiwanese oolongs -once rare teas are “more mainstream on people’s psyche and knowledge”. As well, there have been more tea shops opening up, giving more consumers more options. The journey of tea is a slow one, like meditation, where it is one step at a time and not a running marathon. First, Kevin was a consumer, then he wrote about tea and this provided him for a long love affair to buy and sell tea. He is still a tea trader fuelled by wanting to find better and better, even 30 years later. Tea is a long love affair, it has its ups and down but is a constant in ones life.
TEA STUDIO- The Story of a Boutique Artisanal Tea By Carol Mark Camellia Sinensis has brought Kevin full circle with partnership as co-owners of a tea plantation in India. The unique artisan teas produced at Tea Studio utilizes special Chinese machinery to simulate the process of hand rolled tea. The machines that are used recreate 85% of the qualities of handmade leaf. Twentyeight machines were brought in from China with associates that helped with the technical end. Hand panning is still used for higher end products. Tea at the Tea Studio carries forward a tradition of the family tea estates but with a modern marriage reaching across many cultures and geographic locations. Camellia Sinensis’ involvement in India is built on a foundation of 20 year old business friendships in India and technical help from China. The Tea Studio is able to provide fair employment to the women of the region who take pride in their skills and support their ability to earn an income. The Tea Studio hopes to expand its business model to be able to offer secondary education to the employees, one of the workers was leaving to be trained as a hairdresser. At the time of the interview, five women were on payroll. The Tea Studio was confident that producing a good black teas was possible, but they have been surprised by the results of their green tea. We had three teas from the Tea Studio paired with a chocolate cake. I loved the sweet and the brisk notes of the Nilgiri Mao Feng. Its strong notes can hold up to richer, heavier flavours such as the chocolate without losing its flavour profile.
Nilgiri Mao Feng- Tea Studio Green tea produced in Maofeng Sweet apricot, honey, grassy notes that reflect a well rounded brewed. Lingering sweetness that stays on the tongue and an astringent finish. I was able to get three infusions, with each one providing deeper notes. As a habit, I always check my infused leaves and even taste a few. All the tastes extracts were drawn out. I often drink my tea in the morning solo but I also like to pair with savoury like this steam bao, and often at 2 ish I have a sweet dessert pairing.
Orange Chocolate Cake- Vegan Preheat oven 325 degrees F Mix 1 cup sugar 2 cups ground almonds 2 tsp baking powder
5 tbsp ground flaxseed mixture (flaxseed mixed with 15 tbsp water & for 10 mins) 1 c orange marmalade Bake for 55 mins in a non stick cake pan.
Option to pour into loaf pans/muffin tins (12 servings) and bake 25 m Remove when cool, as very soft. Option to top with hot glaze made from 2 tbsp lemon juice and 1/4 cup confectioners sugar. Followed by chocolate drizzle of melted chocolate. Orange & chocolate are a smashing flavour combination! * Recipes developed & tested in my test kitchen * Pairs with a dark black tea or a strong green * Chocolate pairs & can hold its flavour notes with a puer tea
& sit
mins.
The Ritz-Carlton Hotels The story begins with a Swiss hotel entrepreneur by the name of Cesar Ritz, who was born in a small Swiss village, the youngest of 13 children in a poor peasant family. He originally trained as a sommelier, then waiter and finally partnered with one of the greatest chefs of all time, Auguste Escoffier. Together, they built the largest hotel empire of their era. Then as now, food was a great draw especially when combined with elegant hotel service. In 1918 Ritz died, but his hotel brand continued. The first RitzCarlton in North America was opened in New York City in 1911. Montreal Ritz-Carlton located at 1228 Sherbrooke Street West
Opened in 1912, it was the first hotel in North America to bear the Ritz-Carlton name and was originally licensed by César Ritz. He insisted on very specific hotel standards, such as every room had to have its own separate bathroom and a staircase to the main hall wide enough to accommodate ballroom dresses. The hotel has a history of famous guests, from royalty to the Rolling Stones, and today it is owned by the Marriott chain. Dining remains a focus of hospitality with Maison Boulud named for Chef Daniel Boulud based on traditional French techniques with local ingredients. As well, the famous afternoon tea tradition in the Palm Court remains an elegant way to celebrate special events or meet up with friends.
Ritz-Carlton, Montreal Canada Environment & living space is everything in setting up one’s mood for the day. In a typical wild snowstorm that closed most of the roads in Montreal, we trudged off to the Ritz-Carlton Hotel for Afternoon tea not discouraged by any of the snow that was whipping around us. Once we stepped into the entrance, there was a transformation back to the “Palm Court” referring to the era where it was described as a large area dining room with palm trees hosting tea dances noted in high end hotels dating back to the 19th century in England. In fact so popular the fated Titanic had its own Palm Court onboard. Fresh plants and florals were in sight and the only palms were the ones painted overhead on the vaulted ceiling. As it roared snow, we sat by the fireplace and had a tea that was memorable of what tea should be—taking time. I often wondered how one could be more creative and especially in new cities whether Montréal could put a creative twist on the menu offerings. Service was excellent and the food standard fair without any surprises. Maybe at times of a crisis, in this case a wicked snowstorm having the comfort of familiar tastings is a reassurance in itself. It provided the feeling of being cared for and pampered. As in home sweet home- all I
needed was my bathrobe and my slippers to feel I was lounging in my own space. Pastry and scones was perfect executed by Pastry Chef Claude Guerin named best Part Chef in Canada, 2017. Unfortunately, no surprises except that “homemade Devonshire cream” bears no resemblance to real Devon clotted cream. Sandwiches are prepared to perfection with homemade breads. With 48 hours in advance they have an approved Kosher Afternoon Tea. Vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free and pescatarian options are available upon request 24 hours in advance. Tea offerings were standard to include white, herbal, green and black teas. We ordered Bai Mu Dan white tea, inaccurately described as Perfectly Pear, and Earl Grey Tea. Both paired well with the savoury and sweet offerings. Unfortunately, the tea came in tea bags which to me personally was unacceptable. It does not allow proper infusion of the leaves and also due to the issues of micro plastics of synthetic tea bags and release of 100,000 Microparticles of plastic into one’s tea cup. I am unsure at the time of writing if the tea bags used are made of natural materials. Otherwise, a memorable tea within a historical setting with top rated service. * Uses tea bags
Ceiling of the famed Palm Court at the Ritz Carlton Montréal
“The Customer is always right” —César Ritz, Founder of the Ritz-Carlton List of famous guests Prince of Wales Winston Churchill Queen Marie of Romania Lord Birkenhead Prince George, Duke of Kent Prince Felix of Luxembourg President William Howard Taft Mary Pickford Douglas Fairbanks Marlene Dietrich Liberace Tyrone Power Maurice Chevalier Elizabeth Taylor & Richard Burton (Married at the Montreal Ritz) Queen Elizabeth II Prince Philip Charles de Gaulle The Rolling Stones Celine Dion
Afternoon Tea Biscuits- Anytime Preheat oven 400 degrees F Blend together 1 1/4 c all purpose flour 2 tsp baking powder 1/2 tsp salt Using your fingers break and rub into flour 1/8 cup butter + 1/8 cup vegetable shortening Stir in 1/2 cup of milk with 2 tbsp yogurt mixed Mix and knead for 8 times. Shape into 8-10 pieces drop into non stick bake pan. Bake 14 mins Makes 8-10 biscuits
* All recipes developed & tested in my test kitchen
How your “cuppa” launched the world’s most famous sailing ship
E
veryone has heard of the Cutty Sark, the world’s most famous sailing ship. Many even know it is conserved in Greenwich, U.K. a short tube ride from central London. A brand of premium Scotch has been named after it and tens of thousands of tourists visit it each year. What is not so widely known, however, is that the Cutty Sark was originally built for the purpose of carrying tea. She was the greatest and certainly the most famous of the Tea Clippers. In the days of sail, speed was all important when bringing tea back from China. The Cutty Sark is the world’s sole surviving tea clipper and a monument to the age of sail. But in her day she had another reputation - as one of the fastest vessels anywhere. Getting the first of the new season’s tea back from China to London was worth great profits for a clipper’s owner - and the Cutty Sark was built to win that race, time and again. Designed by Hercules Linton, the Cutty Sark was built in 1869 in
Dumbarton, Scotland, by the firm Scott & Linton for a captain by the name of Jock “White Hat” Willis. The ship was launched in November of that year. The Cutty Sark was named after a line in a folk tale about a fleet-footed witch in the old Scottish legend of Tam O’Shanter, which was later turned into a poem by Robert Burns: no-one ever knew the precise reason why. However, a “cutty sark” was a type of short slip or undergarment. An odd epithet for one of the fastest ships that ever sailed the sea on wind power. In 1889 the Cutty Sark was involved in a famous incident that pitted her against the crack P&O steamship, the Britannia. The Britannia was doing between 14.5 and 16 knots when the Second Officer, Robert Olivey, noticed a sailing ship passing at 17 knots. He could scarcely contain his astonishment in the log which said: “Sailing ship overhauled and passed us!” She could sail between London and Sydney in as little as sixty-seven days. This famous sailing ship recently underwent a five year, multi-million pound restoration. After receiving a visit from Her Majesty, the Queen, she awaits your visit just a short ride from London. By Alan McKee, Author, lover of history and black teas. www.hudsonhousemysteries.com
BOOK YOUR OWN HISTORIC VISIT HERE
processed. This, coupled with well distributed rainfall ranging between 1200 mm to 1400mm per annum, rich virgin volcanic soils and long sunny days are some of the climatic features that ensure all year long supply. Rain fall ranging between 1200 mm to 1400mm per annum, rich virgin volcanic soils and long sunny days are some of the climatic features that ensure all year long supply. As with any tea-growing region, Kenyan tea has a favour profile unique to the area. Described as being strong and appealing in taste, the colour once brewed is bright in colour, with a bold strong aroma, all qualities that make it a preferred base in most breakfast blends as well as its quick brewing characteristic. Due to the high altitude of East, and West of the Rift Valley as well as Central Kenya, Kenyan black tea is known to have higher levels of antioxidant content compared to teas from other parts of the world.
The country is not only winning acclaim for its black tea, the market is opening up opportunities for other types of tea. Due to the antioxidants and health benefits Kenya is now producing and packaging green tea processed without fermentation, purple tea - a cross bred variety of the common leaf, white tea made from tea buds, and orthodox whole leaf tea for the health-conscious consumer. In its purest form, tea sourced by Buy Kenyan Tea comes directly grown, harvested, dried from farms, is 100% free of pesticides and any manipulation by mechanical processes. It is also packed unblended at origin, is 100% pesticide free making it an all-natural product.
Mr. Sigilai Kericho, an elder Rift Valley. Photo Credit: Daniel Wesangula
The bittersweet journey of tea in Kenya Tea was first introduced into Kenya by the Caine brothers (British colonial farmers) who imported a hybrid seed from Assam in 1903, planted it in a rich agricultural land just south of the equator, in one of many European settlements commonly referred to as White Highlands. The importance of the crop was then realised by Brooke Bond (UK) and in 1925 commissioned Malcolm Fyers Bell to commercialise on the crop’s growing popularity by starting the first tea estates in Kenya. Arnold Butler McDonell, another notable British settler was an avid farmer and one of Africa’s first commercial tea farmer. His family has been hosting tea tours at their Kiambethu farm in a small town in Tigoni near Limuru where a new tea segment of tourism is emerging. Behind the history of the thriving multinational tea companies that were originally owned by British colonialists lies untold tales of suffering of hundreds of African labourers who at the time due to colonisation, could not carry out any large scale farming themselves. Mr. Chumo 100, who worked on different plantations in the Rift Valley in a career spanning 20 years explains that the establishment of several White Highlands where tea estates were established was as a direct result of forcefully evicting hundreds of residents to create space for tea farms and later recruiting the compliant citizens as
labourers and the defiant ones sent to concentration camps. “If the White man saw attractive and fertile land, he would send surveyors to demarcate it for immediate occupation, in total disregard of the Africans living there” says Chumo. Mr. Sigilai 79 another elder in the area, vividly remembers him and his family becoming beggars in their own land after colonialists ousted them in 1934 to plant tea on their family land and as a result losing several members of his family members in a malaria and tse tse fly infested camp. The extent to which the injustice and racial discrimination was served in the form of systematic degradation, demeaning punishments, and fear as well as death has been well documented in the past though rarely talked about after colonial rule was diminished. A reversal of the previous colonial policies on native agricultural practices was established by the Swynnerton plan of 1954 an agricultural policy that allowed local Africans to grow cash crops, technical assistance, and have access to all marketing facilities, all of which were previously available and restricted to the white settler minority. In the 1960’s East Africa Royal Commission set up by the British government to review issues of economic development in British colonies also recommended the removal of all racial and political
barriers and the implementation of a land settlement programme intended to formalise greater African participation in agriculture, the foundation of Kenya's economy. These combined efforts were to serve as a reconciliation between the departing colonial authority and the leaders of a soon to be independent Kenya. Just a few years later Kenya would gain full independence in 1969, and Limuru (another region in Central Kenya also formerly known as White Highlands) remained as one of the main tea growing regions in Kenya along with the other major tea growing regions in the Rift Valley. Much of the land vacated when the British left Kenya in 1963 after 43 years would go on to be sold to the political elite who could afford to buy it, and local and multinational companies that went on to own huge large tea estates making the nation a major producer of black tea. Since 2017, Sigilai has attempted to sue the British government for alleged displacement of his relatives to plant tea on their family land, one of many recent similar lawsuits seeking compensation for unresolved historical injustices committed by the British colonial administration against communities. Globalisation of a dominant commodity almost always leaves victims in its wake. The working life of the current crop of labourers some
descendants of the likes of Chumo and Sigilai differs from that experienced by their grandfathers during colonialism, their employers are no longer white men but wealthy Africans. Fortunately today there are trade and workers unions put in place to manage member dissatisfaction, and most important the Kenya law reform for equality and freedom from discrimination as set forth in the Kenyan constitution. Introducing Single Origin Kenyan Tea CTC, otherwise known as Crush Tear Curl, is Kenya’s major production method used for turning tea leaves into tea dust, for more rapid brewing in tea bags. However Kenya’s global position does not translate to awareness for your average tea drinker. There is one main reason why a typical tea consumer in any part of the world will fail to be aware of a small East Africa’s country’s role in their everyday cup of loose tea or tea bag. The majority of black CTC tea sold in Kenya is sold in bulk through the Mombasa auction, (previously held in Nairobi) a well-controlled open market that has been in operation since the late 1950’s and only second in size to the Colombo auction in Sri Lanka. Some of Kenya’s CTC tea biggest importers who in 2018 alone contributed to exports amounting to 450 million kilograms include Pakistan, UK, Egypt and Russia. They purchase almost entirely from
the auction and go onto blend the superior CTC Kenyan Black tea with other lower quality grades from different tea producing countries, to produce some of the popular blends available in grocery stores in Europe, the Arab world, North America, Asia and other markets. Due to this and because Kenya is a new tea growing region (relative to China and India.) the country’s tea is yet to achieve the full potential of being recognized as a single origin tea, something Buy Kenyan Tea is working hard to change. Through organised trade forums, bilateral trade agreements and a conscious effort by the current Kenyan government, there has been an increase in platforms created for local tea companies to maximise on global match making opportunities. In addition, there is an interesting ongoing discussion by the Kenya Tea Development Agency to push for worldwide recognition by registering geographical indication of 100% Kenyan branded tea by WIPO (World Intellectual Property Organisation). This will result in manufacturing of an array of fine teas, which like wine are unique to each agro climatic area in Kenya. Christine Wanjiru Simon is a Business Development Manager with a keen interest in tea trading. Having written a shortlisted “Dissertation of the year award” in Brunel University West London, on the feasibility of introducing Kenyan single origin tea to the UK she made a bold move back to Kenya with the aim of building on her skills and work
experience in her home country. She is working to create awareness of single origin Kenyan tea as well as researching more ways to improve current tea processes to benefit the farmers directly. She currently resides in the warm coastal town of Mombasa and can be contacted at www.buykenyantea.com
TEA Kenyan Tea OP Grade. Photo Credit: Maina Kiminda SOMMELIER TIPS by Carol Mark
QUICK Tea Sommelier Tips by Carol Mark, Certified Tea Sommelier • Be adventurous, be ready to try new teas. Ask for samples. • Smell is a wonderful part of taste- close your eyes and smell the dry leaf and smell when you take each sip. • Examine the wet leaf after steeping to see that each leaf has been open and fully infused. • Green tea is often scorched and tastes bitter. A simple tip is to infuse with water under the boil, I wait 10 mins before infusing. • Wet the green tea leaves with cool water before infusing, eases the shock of the boiling water and protects the leaf. • When trying new teas, push the boundary of tastes further by repeat infusions with water and longer steep times. • Use fresh cold water when preparing boiled water for tea- the oxygen brightens the cup, no flat taste. • No sugar, no milk expands your taste acuity. • Pre-heat your teapot by using a quick rinse with boiling water.
THE WHITBY BAR New York City A Tale of Two Afternoon Teas- The Whitby Hotel Going for afternoon tea is an experience of indulgence and adventure.The Whitby Hotel, founded by Tim & Kit Kemp, the founders of the Firmdale Hotels have opened The Whitby Hotel in New York City. Two, in fact. On a short trip to the Big Apple to catch my fix of art, we had the luck of being able to hit upon Afternoon Tea in the Orangery Room at the Whitby Hotel. First of all, I just loved the atmosphere of eye popping designs and colour attributed to designer and co-founder of the Firmdale Hotels, Kit Kemp. I was greeted by our amazing server- Young Kim, a native New Yorker, who took her time graciously explaining our menu and totally making us comfortable. Her explanations and generally relaxing and professional manner made for a relaxing experience. I was excited given most Afternoon Teas are basically similar menus. But the Orangery had an option of a “Healthy Menu” at the time, now renamed “Gluten Free & Vegan Afternoon Tea”. Although I give them A+ for trying, they only slightly missed the mark when offered cheese in first menu and the second included egg salad, which is not vegan. As a cancer survivor who tries hard to stay vegan, it is difficult and challenging when traveling. I do love the Whitby’s menu and the pairings of food with the teas were excellent. There is a wonderful natural freshness and respect for the ingredients, allowing its natural flavour come through unhindered by anything fake. BOOK HERE
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Mediterranean Frittata-taste of heavenly -Vegan Preheat oven 375 degrees F Mix 1 3/4 c chickpea flour 1 tsp baking powder 2 tsp dried basil or thyme 1 tsp sea salt 2 cups water Saute med high with 1 tbsp vegetable oil I med/large onion diced 8-10 mushrooms washed, diced Combine vegetables to chickpea mixture Pour into non stick muffin or loaf tins. Note mixture is watery but thicken on baking. Bake 25 mins then optional top with vegan shredded cheese Remove & cool. Can be served at room temperature or heated. Option to serve with a chutney on the side or carmelized onions with balsamic vinegar. Top with sundried tomato. * Recipes developed & tested in my test kitchen
Afternoon Tea: A themed celebration of historical personalities
Sampling of Prince of Wales, An Enlish Tea at Windsor
Sampling of King Louis X V, A French Tea at Versailles
Sommelier Service at the Baccarat Hotel
Sommelier Service at the Baccarat Hotel-with Gabrielle Jammal, in-house Tea Sommelier by Carol Mark Describe your most memorable tea experience? This could be a memory, place or tea. When I was young we were lucky enough to be very close with my grandparents. I remember my mom and grandma making a large pot of black tea for everyone at tea time and being together. In terms of pairing tea with food, what would say is the most important aspect of pairing to bring out the profile of the tea. What’s most important in pairing anything is to find flavors that compliment each other. Sometimes the findings are surprising and sometimes things you think will work don’t at all. Be adventurous and try them all! Do you feel the quality of water is important to making a great cup of tea? Absolutely. A low quality of water has the ability to make even the best tea taste flat. What is the favourite part of your position as a tea sommelier ? Sharing my love of tea and debunking tea myths! I also love meeting people from all over and hearing what tea means to them. What is the most interesting information you shared about tea with a guest? Recently I am enjoying speaking about herbal teas/tisanes. There is a bit of misunderstanding between decaf and herbal tea and exactly what they are. What is your favourite cup of tea? I LOVE Taiwanese oolongs. They are my go to. More importantly I prefer to sit and share tea with someone special.
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I am in a cafe in Lisbon and against my better judgement I have ordered and am currently waiting for an English Breakfast tea. I know I'll be disappointed, this isn't my first tea outside of the United Kingdom. To my amazement however, I am even more dumbfounded and dismayed than I had so cynically predicted. A mug of hot water arrives. It is sitting on a saucer with an individually wrapped tea bag (Lipton Yellow Label if memory serves me correctly, my sincere condolences if you're familiar with this brand) perched precariously on the side. I simply can't fathom it. Leaving the quality (or lack thereof) of the tea bag to one side for a moment, why oh why would anyone think it a good idea to put the water in the mug before the tea bag, this will surely impede the brewing process, hinder maximum seepage and significantly lower the overall quality of my hot beverage. As I sit gazing sombrely into the murky grey-brown excuse before me my mind is racked with the ultimate question: Is terrible tea the price one pays for being a British emigrant?
No piece of writing about tea could of course be complete without a brief nod to the history of this marvellous elixir. It's no secret that the imbibing of tea began thousands of years ago in Asia and was introduced to Britain sometime in the 17th century courtesy of Catherine of Braganza, for which I'm sure we can all agree we're ever so grateful. Whilst us Brits may not be the pioneers who discovered, grew and cultivated this ancient brew, we are certainly the ones who perfected it (yes I do mean the addition of milk).
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That's the history dealt with, let's talk brands. Tea brands are like Beatles albums: Everyone has their personal favourite, but some are simply better than others. 'Some are better than others' carries a lot more weight if you've ever tried to purchase tea bags outside of the United Kingdom. Having lived in different countries in different continents I have experienced first hand the trials and tribulations of trying to acquire tea without paying over the odds or compromising on quality, a task greatly more difficult than it sounds. I always begin my quest the way anyone would, at the local supermarkets. Upon crossing the automatic threshold my internal sat nav guides me immediately to the necessary isle, and I commence an unrelenting scan for my preferred bag (Yorkshire, of course). Unsurprisingly, my search yields nothing of this calibre. And so I am faced with the alternatives. As well as the aforementioned Lipton Yellow Label, a tea for people with a deeply rooted fear and dislike of tea it seems, there is usually an assortment of other local offerings. A particular note worthy disappointment in this category includes the utterly abysmal 'Lord Nelson', a name that carries a certain boldness and depth of character which is largely absent from the drink itself. If you have ever been unlucky enough to try this little number you'll know exactly what I'm talking about. And so what is a self respecting tea drinker to do? At this point the options are slim: Would you take a chance on an unheard of brand, perhaps 'Bio English Breakfast' or some such like has caught your eye? You might say to yourself, 'how bad can it be?' Of course there is always the
chance that this will be your new number-one, go-to tea bag of choice... but let's be realistic here. By all means hope for the best, but prepare for the worst (cup of tea of your life). Splash out. For all its faults Globalisation does mean that you can now find classics such as Twinings in even the most far flung corners of the world. While not a completely disheartening brew (some may thoroughly enjoy the delicate, floral bouquet ever present in a cup of Twinings), Twinings lacks the robust, punchy depth of flavour one looks for in a good cup of tea. And considering the price of Twinings, especially outside of the United Kingdom, one has to wonder if this compromise in quality is really worth the money. Old reliable. While not as readily available as Twinings, and regrettably Lipton Yellow Label, PG Tips has gradually crept its way out of the United Kingdom and into many countries above and below the equator. And although I (and others I'm sure) am overjoyed to happen upon a box of PG (albeit overpriced), it certainly isn't without fault. Though not as underwhelming as Twinings, it still won't be winning any weightlifting awards anytime soon. It's a good all-rounder but can't quite cut the mustard among ardent tea drinkers. If there was a medal for 'best of a bad situation', PG would wear it proudly. Cough up. A mug of steaming hot gratification costs money. For some committed tea drinkers this is the only viable option. Seek out your local import shop or high-end supermarket, there you are sure to find (for a price) a box of high quality bags, possibly even your favourite brand (I was recently lucky enough to stumble across a box of Yorkshire tea in an import shop in Lisbon). Beware though, at the extortionate prices most places will charge for tea of this quality, every bag counts.
Luggage allowance. It's there for a reason folks. Before embarking on your new life abroad, get yourself to a supermarket or wholesale supplier and seek out the most outrageously huge sack of good quality tea bags available. Don't just buy one though, laden yourself with as many sacks as your suitcase will hold. Don't waste valuable space on clothes and cosmetics, they can be purchased anywhere. So there it is. The struggle of being a Brit abroad is real, but with these steps that struggle might just be lessened, and miserable cups of murky dishwater might just become a distant unpleasant memory. Failing all this you could of course just drink coffee. GUEST WRITER Henry Cosmo Crockwell is an aspiring writer. He has a keen interest in the written word and through years of studying both literature and language that interest has blossomed into a passion. As a graduate of Creative Writing and linguistics he tries to find inspiration everywhere, and put pen to paper at every available opportunity. I thoroughly enjoy all aspects of writing from poetry to academic essays and everything in between.
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