Great Escapes

GREAT ESCAPES

Storming Welsh castles

Bryony Symes packs her mackintosh for a rain-lashed but scenic tour of Pembrokeshire’s magnificent monuments

South Wales

S

outh Wales’ pretty countryside was overshadowed by the storm clouds that rolled thunder and lightning over our heads, but our caravan was warm and dry and we were cosy. What better weather for visiting moody and desolate castles? It all added to the atmosphere!

South Wales was once a hotbed for battle, and a strategic stronghold for the Romans, Normans and plenty of others besides, leaving a coastline dotted with a diverse selection of castles in various states of ruin.

Colleague Claudia Dowell and I were in Pembrokeshire to find out more about the stories surrounding these impressive structures; discovering one or two local gems and lots of beauty spots in the process.

We chose October to avoid the crowds of high season and the cold snap of winter when it would be too chilly to enjoy exploring ancient buildings that might not offer much shelter. Rain we could deal with.

We pitched up at Stone Pitt Caravan Park, in Begelly, because it was close to most of the castles that we wanted to visit. When we arrived, owner Claire Morris skilfully and quickly pitched the caravan for us, so we were set up, with the kettle on in no time.

Claire was quick to point out that our pitch’s view included the giraffe pen at Folly Farm zoo, just across the valley from us. Claudia had thoughtfully packed our dinner, so we put on a film and spent the evening in the van to recuperate after the long drive.

What Dylan Thomas saw

After the narrow streets surrounding the town, the view of Laugharne castle and out across the River Taff estuary, which opens up from the main car park, is unexpectedly beautiful. The water stretches out into the distance, with the opposite shore of the estuary just visible to frame the sky’s reflection on the water. There is a marsh-like area to the right as you stand in the car

Picturesque Manorbier Castle stands high over Manorbier Bay on the Pembrokeshire Coast

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GREATESCAPES

South Wales A40

Folly Farm Cresswell Quay

Your trip planner

Laugharne Castle

, Stone Pitt Caravan Park

All the vital statistics and further info

A477 Pembroke Castle

Carew Castle Manorbier Castle

Food and Drink n Wiseman’s Bridge Inn

Serves pub grub, perfect for refuelling after a brisk walk on the beach, with limited parking along the seafront and a separate bar and restaurant.

Tel 01834 813 236 Web www.wisemansbridgeinn.co.uk n Marina Fish and Chips

This fish-and-chip bar has friendly service, great food and views over Saundersfoot’s harbour.

Tel 01834 813598 Web marinafishandchips.com n Manian Lodge Restaurant and Bar

For a sophisticated dinner, with delicious and creative food, just across the road from Stone PItt Holiday Park.

Tel 01834 813 273

There’s a good car park In

Web www.manianlodge.com

Laugharne but towing a caravan through the town’s narrow streets is tricky

left to right The view from the tower of Laugharne Castle over the marshland and estuary of the River Taf; looking through an intact gateway to the crumbling ruins of Laugharne Castle

n Laugharne Castle

Entrance is £3.80 for adults and £2.85

‘It was easy to imagine that the boathouse was still someone’s home’

Clockwise from top lefT There are many steps down to Dylan Thomas’s Boathouse; the poet’s writing shed has wonderfully inspiring views over the estuary

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The castles

park, where boats are moored and the rusting relic of a larger ship rests. The castle to the left stands tall and proud, despite its crumbling stonework.

We quickly clocked the signs about high tides and made note of the times that we should avoid so that we didn’t return to a waterlogged car.

There were lots of dog walkers around, and this was clearly a popular place for locals to get some fresh air. I even made friends with one muddy and adorable dog called Sissy, who left me with several paw prints on my jeans.

The tiny bridge from the car park across the River Coran (which is little more than a stream that runs into the estuary) takes you along the path with the fortress towering above. It’s an impressive structure despite the fact that it is incomplete. It’s easy to see the stronghold that it once was.

The path that leads to a boathouse that was once the home of Welsh poet Dylan Thomas is clearly marked. The walk was fresh and blustery and perfect for enjoying the great views of the marshes and estuary.

Claudia was patient as I stopped to take pictures several times along the way; I even stopped to listen to the mud. Odd, I know, but you could hear the sucking sound, almost as though it was breathing out, as the tide receded. The patterns in the mud were beautiful, too, but we were soon climbing the steps towards the shed where Dylan Thomas did much of his writing.

The first set of steps, which are steep and a little rough, bring you out onto a narrow lane. After just 10 metres or so, you come to the writing shed with its information board and the interior set up as Thomas would have had it. It’s an idyllic setting with those glorious views. A little further along the lane is another set of steps that descend the cliff into the top of the boathouse’s garden.

With pyjamas blowing on the washing line outside, it was easy to imagine that the boathouse was still someone’s home, but inside we found a small gift and bookshop.

We paid the entrance fee. Exploring the tiny house didn’t take long, but the top floor has interesting information boards and a video about the poet’s life, plus some fascinating artifacts.

Downstairs, the café smelt deliciously of teacakes, and from its windows were more amazing views. Unfortunately, there is only one way in and out, so back up the many stairs we climbed. The walk along the lane and back to Laugharne’s centre is much gentler.

for seniors, students and children.

Web http://cadw.wales.gov.uk/ n Manorbier Castle

The castle is privately owned. Charges are £5 for adults and £3 for children, with parking at the beach car park.

Web http://manorbiercastle.co.uk/ n Pembroke Castle

Entrance is £5.50 for adults and £3.50 for children, and you can go in the gift shop without paying the entrance fee.

Web pembroke-castle.co.uk n Carew Castle and Tidal Mill

Run by the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, entry charges are £4 for adults and £3 for children.

Web www.pembrokeshirecoast.org.uk

Our Outfit Our Škoda Superb Estate 2.0 TDI towed the plush and spacious new Bailey Unicorn Valencia.

Defending the coast

As the dark clouds drew in and it began to rain gently, we rushed to the castle’s entrance and took shelter in the information centre, where we learned about its history.

The original structure was a 12th-century ringwork castle, the present fortress dates back to the 13th century and was built by Guy de Brian IV. The de Brians were good

Our sleek Škoda did us proud around Pembrokeshire’s narrow, winding roads

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South Wales

MAIN Laugharne Castle’s formal gardens were laid out in the 19th century INSET The castle’s summerhouse was a writing refuge for Dylan Thomas and Richard Hughes

caretakers of the castle, updating the defences and improving the accommodation, but during the 15th and 16th centuries it was only partially occupied.

It has withstood plenty of attacks from the Welsh, and was even partially dismantled and burned at various points in its history.

Elizabeth I granted the castle to Sir John Perrot in 1575, who transformed it into a comfortable Tudor mansion similar to his main residence at Carew, just a few miles away. However it soon fell into ruin again.

What you see now, as you walk in by the main entrance, reflects its tumultuous history.

The outer ward is beautifully gardened, with low box hedges on your left and, further behind that, a more wild, rugged area of shrubs and trees leads to a summerhouse.

Dylan Thomas and author Richard Hughes used the summerhouse in the 1930s and 40s as a writing sanctuary, when Hughes was leasing Castle House. The summerhouse has been left as though the two friends have

Writing on the summerhouse wall gives a

Saundersfoot’s vast beach is a great spot for

flavour of Dylan Thomas’s poetry

walking, with or without a dog, out of season

simply gone for a pint in the nearby pub, with a rebuking note to Thomas from his wife.

We climbed the one remaining tower to take in the stunning views across the estuary. The dark, blustery day made it very atmospheric.

Further up the road is Thomas’s old watering hole, and we decided to take advantage of it. The Browns Hotel has been modernised since Dylan frequented it, but there are still reminders of its most famous patron to admire, and plenty of reading material to take in while you sip your drink.

You can also explore the Tin Shed Experience, and there are tearooms and shops in Laugharne to enjoy, but you can’t help returning to those lovely vistas, especially if you’ve parked there.

We were getting hungry and took the back roads to the coastal resort of Saundersfoot, eagerly anticipating a proper seaside meal.

We went to Marina Fish and Chips, where we were treated to harbourside views to accompany our deep-fried delicacies. After popping in to the bakery for some fresh Welsh Cakes, we returned to the car for another evening in the van, and the sound of thunderstorms to add a bit of drama.

‘Further up the road is Dylan Thomas’s old watering hole, and we decided to take advantage of it’

More than a farm, more of a zoo The weather wasn’t looking much better the next day. Claire suggested we popped the two miles down the road to Folly Farm

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GREATESCAPES

Why we

stayed at…

Stone Pitt Holiday Park Stone Pitt is a clean, tidy family-run park with everything you’ll need for a relaxing holiday. All pitches are hardstanding, and Claire, the owner, will happily pitch your caravan for you and helps in any way she can. You can also store your caravan here and have it pitched and levelled for you by the time you arrive for your break.

If you have non-caravanning friends wanting to join you for a holiday in Wales, they can stay in one of two selfcatering cottages on the site.

MAIN You can help feed Folly

There are attractions nearby to suit

Farm’s Humbolt penguins with

all kinds of holiday, from Folly Farm

the Penguin Experience

Adventure Park and Zoo just a mile or

INSET The four huge male

so down the road to the many castles,

giraffes at Folly Farm have a

beaches and the Pembrokeshire

penchant for white cabbage.

Coast National Park.

Some pitches look across to the

Adventure Park and Zoo, where there was plenty to do and see undercover. Claudia, apparently, loves giraffes and I was keen to see the lion cubs and penguins.

We began our tour in the Jolly Barn and Farm, where you can see animals from baby chicks to ponies and even goats, which you can learn how to milk. As it turned out, milking goats is not my calling, so we moved on quickly to the vintage funfair, which was full of bright, fun, and downright noisy games and rides. Some of the fairground attractions had fascinating histories, and apparently there are even more rides in the process of being restored.

There are plenty of things to tick off your bucket list here. We started with the giraffes in a Keeper Experience. Talking to the keepers, seeing behind-the-scenes care and helping to feed animals such as penguins and giraffes are popular at Folly Farm. Both Claudia and I were initially dumbfounded by the height and grace of the giraffes. Standing next to them certainly did make me feel a little short (OK, very short). The keeper fed these seemingly gentle giants while talking to us. White cabbage is clearly a favourite food – we almost got dribbled on as they munched on the stuff. Giraffes are very messy eaters, so watch your heads.

The real highlight, though, and something I will be re-telling for years, was a rare opportunity to get up close to the newest family to join the farm – lions Hugo, Luna and their four cubs. They came to Folly Farm in July 2014. I got special permission to feed

them, poking steak through the wire fence.

And I still have all my fingers!

Continuing around the park, we saw penguins, zebras, aviaries full of rare and beautiful birds such as kookaburra and storks. There’s an adventure playground and go-karts for the children, and even a theatre tucked away at the back of the funfair barn, which often hosts entertainment.

After the excitement of feeding lions and giraffes, we stopped for a spot of lunch at Folly Farm’s café, which has a good choice of hot food to beat the rainy-day blues.

giraffe enclosure of Folly Farm, but if you

Great for a walk and dinner

fuel station, shop, bakery, pub and

Nearby is Wiseman’s Bridge, a small village on the coast that has a traditional pub and a long pebble beach to explore. It was a favourite of my parents and we have had several family holidays there. When the rain eased off, Claudia and I joined the

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prefer your wildlife smaller, you’ll spot rabbits aplenty just feet from your pitch.

Facilities include a washblock that is always clean and a good size, two shower rooms with access for the disabled, plenty of washing-up facilities and a laundry room. There is also Wi-Fi for those who like to stay in touch.

If your children need to let off steam, there is a children’s play area, plus there are plenty of options for dog walks in the area.

The nearby village of Begelly has a church, and there is a restaurant-bar at the Mondian Lodge just across the road.

Nearby Kilgetty (less than a fiveminute drive) has a railway station, pubs, cafés, take-aways and a Co-op.

Access to the site is easy and there is a security barrier, but keep your eyes peeled for the sign and make sure you go slowly over the speed humps on site — they can be vicious!

Address Begelly, Kilgetty, Pembrokeshire SA68 0XE Tel 01834 811 086 Web www.stonepitt.co.uk Open All year No of pitches 36, all of which are hardstanding Charges Pitch + 2 + hook-up £19-£20

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South Wales

MAIN Carew Castle stands majestically over the tidal River Carew INSET The beach at Wiseman’s Bridge is a lovely place to walk. There’s a caravan site just opposite

dog-walkers on the beach for some fresh air and a good long walk. I picked up an orange pebble and used it as a chalk, writing messages on the rocks for strangers.

You may not want to dip your toes in the cold Celtic Sea at this time of year, but the beaches are still great places to spend time.

Whether you wrap up warm to take a long seaside walk or just stop for five minutes to stand and stare, Wiseman’s Bridge faces onto a beautiful part of the Pembrokeshire coastline, and there’s even a caravan site practically on the beach, run by the Wiseman’s Bridge Inn. We stopped for an early dinner at the inn.

It serves hearty portions of well-cooked food, so that we were quite content to make our way the few miles back to Stone Pitt and a cosy evening in the caravan.

Beware of a high tide

“Have you visited Cresswell Quay?” asked Claire the next day. The tiny hamlet is about

Claudia and Bryony stop for delicious pub food at the friendly and cosy Wiseman’s Bridge Inn

10 minutes’ drive from the campsite and its popular pub has a lovely outlook across the water to the hamlet of Bubbleton.

The Cresselly Arms, more of a rustic ale house than a pub, was closed but we had a natter with the owners. Apparently, the car park on the river-bend floods at high tide, bringing the water right up to the pub’s front door. Some customers even make the journey to the pub in their boats! The pub opens at weekends, serving Worthingtons and a guest winter ale, with no regular food but rolls on a Saturday. It is a great place to

‘Carew Castle has an impressive atmosphere, towering over the mill pond with medieval strength’ 34 | march 2015 | www.practicalcaravan.com

visit and just sit in your car with a flask of tea in hand, simply enjoying the view.

The stunning remains of Carew Castle are nearby. The castle stands adjacent to Carew River, which is subject to the same tidal influences as Cresswell Quay. In fact, it has the only working tidal mill in Wales. We stopped on the opposite bank for a look, and to see if the Carew Inn was still serving food (it wasn’t, but it looked lovely and cosy!). Carew has an impressive atmosphere, towering over the mill pond with its mix of medieval strength and Tudor grandeur.

It’s easy to see why it is a favourite spot for dog walkers.

We had arranged to meet the owner of Manorbier Castle in the afternoon but had just enough time to drive through the pretty town of Pembroke, peering at the castle from afar. This medieval castle is unusual in

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GREATESCAPES

ABOVE The gardens at Manorbier Castle are a great place to relax and take a cup of tea INSET The 12th-century St James Church stands opposite Manorbier Castle

that it has a natural cavern beneath it and a huge keep standing at nearly 80 feet high.

Harri Tudur (sic), who became King Henry VII, the first of the Tudors, was born here in 1457. It is definitely one for a future visit.

A castle with a softer side

Manorbier Castle was once a Norman stronghold on the south Pembrokeshire coast and has gorgeous views from its postern gate above the cliff. It stands on a headland above a beach, with a dry moat and bridge still in place. The castle is open to visitors from March, with a nice café full of character; interesting sculptures dotted around gardens designed by Irish plantswoman Daphne Shackleton; and an

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unusual cottage inside the castle’s inner ward that can be hired for a non-caravanning stay. There are also the remains of a great hall, and the pretty chapel still bears faint remains of medieval frescoes.

We caught up with its owner, Dame Emily Naper, who told us the castle’s history and her efforts to maintain it as she showed us around – in brilliant sunshine, I might add.

The lands of Manorbier and nearby Penally and Begelly were gifted to Norman knight Odo De Barri after he helped conquer Pembrokeshire after 1003. Odo’s son William transformed the wooden keep to create the current stone fortification, in the early 12th century. William’s fourth son, Gerald De Barri, was born in the castle and

later became known as Gerald of Wales, a famous scholar. It is humbling to think of the history contained within these stone walls.

Before we left the village, we took the car a short distance along the narrow lane at the back of the castle and past the beach, to a viewpoint above. We stood admiring the view until the light started to fade on the final day of our trip.

Visiting so many castles, it helps to take time to clear your head and put it all into perspective. Organising hundreds of years of turbulent history, and the impact it has had on places like Manorbier, which gives the impression of serenely but strongly standing guard as the years unfold, sometimes takes a few moments. PC

Caravan Club sites in South Wales

St David’s Lleithyr Meadow Nestled between three headlands of the Pembrokeshire Coast, this site is dedicated to lovers of the Great Outdoors, encouraging you to explore the rich surroundings.

Open from 27 March 2015

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Freshwater East Sited within Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, Freshwater offers scenic walks on the coastal path.

You’re spoilt for choice for castles, plus lots of dog-friendly beaches.

Open from 20 March 2015

Pembrey Country Park Set on the edge of a 520-acre country park, Pembrey boasts a range of sporting activities and the use of a seven-mile stretch of safe, sandy beach nearby.

Open from 20 March 2015