Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino 2017

€60, exclusively represented by Mirachem

Silvio Nardi 2017 is amarone cherries, marshmallow and almonds on the nose. The attack likewise is tart red cherries with a filigree of light textures laced in bittersweet wild almonds in the mid palate to slowly evolve into a balsamic red flowers, endive and flint finish. Suavely monolithic at this stage with an outer bearing of steep summery tannins and ethers rearing to unfold but still tightly woven into the structure rather than the body of the wine typical of the best of the 17s.

The year could be dubbed a Mediterranean vintage with early harvesting of small berries the order of the day, the result of hot drought conditions where leaf management and water reserves were crucial even if a welcome September rain jumpstarted the final days to create wines with good tannic profiles that need time.

After a few hours breathing, a kirsch like mouth feel, Seville orange rind, anise and grasses with wind brushed oregano, thyme and red peppers, dark forest fruit and wood in the cherry. Still a bit of heat and high energy from the hot vintage but perfect for aging.

The brightness of the fruit speak of chalky soils and sandstone rocks; the gravel schists, quartz and sands play their part in the balsam fragrance and palatable finesse; and the toasted confection of fresh nuts, raw cinnamon and vanilla bean are probably from the French oaking as opposed to the more subtle neutrally inclined Slovenian fare in the later barreling. Finely sculpted and linear in shape this sings terroir from the get-go and reminds me of Gaia’s own stellar blend from a different but similar array of holdings.

Nardi’s vines are partially from the Casale del bosco Poggio Doria holding far northwest of Montalcino giving the wine its elegant finesse, classical ethos and sandy aromatics; a signature of the cooler terroir of this part of the region. While some grapes come from the Manachiara coveted high altitude warmer and dryer fields southeast of Montalcino, giving their healthy share of power, structure, length and breadth.

Supplier details: Mirachem has a vast selection of Brunello and Italian wines. Mirachem, Mira Building, Triq Kan K Pirotta, B’Kara. Tel 00356 2148 8590. Web wine.mt