Taste & Flair April 2023

WELCOME

Spring time is always welcome. The countryside is still green before the summer heat sets in, Judas trees burst into bloom bringing a touch of colour to soulless roadways, and there’s an abundance of fresh produce supplied by the farms that still survive across the islands. It officially starts on 21st March, but it’s Easter that feels like it truly marks the changing season. As Easter falls next Sunday, Michael Diacono prepared a celebratory lunch menu that can be enjoyed en famille and Claire Borg rooted around Europe’s culinary atlas and came up with a variety of Easter breads that bring you a taste of home wherever you are or wherever you’re from. Our in-house kitchen dipped into the spring harvest to prepare light meals that can be easily multiplied to share with guests or enjoyed solo. Andrew Azzopardi recently travelled to Bordeaux where swirling, sniffing, sipping, and swishing wine was part of the fun. Turn to his article on blind-tasting to find out more. In our architecture pages, we look at two family homes that centre around a courtyard – one newly built that draws on a concept dating back centuries, and another that blends 16th century vernacular buildings with 21st century intervention.

We’ll be back at the start of May with another fabulous issue of Taste&Flair.

If you missed any issue of Taste&Flair and want a copy, we may be able to help so please do get in touch with us by email, Messenger, or on Instagram.

Corinne

Happy Easter

Publisher The Daphne Caruana Galizia Foundation 56 Melita Street, Valletta VLT1122, Malta

Editorial Board

Paul Caruana Galizia

Andrew Caruana Galizia

Matthew Caruana Galizia

Executive Editor

Corinne Vella

Editorial Assistants

Megan Mallia • Amy Mallia

Art Director Ramon Micallef +356 9949 1418 ram@box-design.net

Advertising Manager & Editorial Contributor

Sean Ellul +356 7921 0705 sellul@independent.com.mt

Advertising Assistant

Christine Mifsud +356 21 345 888 ext 138 cmifsud@independent.com.mt

Production Manager André Camilleri

Production Assistant Conrad Bondin

Prepress & Printing Print It

All communication about Taste&Flair magazine should be directed to Corinne Vella at corinne.vella@gmail.com

No part of any issue of Taste&Flair may be reproduced without the written prior agreement of the publisher.

Distributed with The Malta Independent on Sunday*. The Malta Independent on Sunday is published by Standard Publications Ltd - Tel +356 21 345 888

*The surcharge on The Malta Independent on Sunday, or any charge for this magazine is retained by Standard Publications Ltd. Follow Taste&Flair on

Springtime in Giverney (1890), oil on canvas, by Claude Monet (1840-1926). The flecks of green and white in the foreground lead the eye to a white building in the background almost hidden by the screen of trees. The absence of distinct points of interest in the painting draws attention to its colour and texture. The painting is on display at the Clark Art Institute in Willamstown, Massachusetts, USA.

Swedish Easter Bread with Cardamom -

photo by Claire Borg. See feature on page 28

Le Bistro

CULINARY EXCELLENCE AT GREAT VALUE

Within the stylish confines of the 5-star Radisson Blu Resort in St Julian’s, you’ll find Le Bistro, a dining establishment that leaves you wondering how such excellence can come at such great value. But don’t let the reasonable prices fool you – this is a restaurant that delivers on every level. With a menu that’s constantly evolving to incorporate the freshest seasonal ingredients, Le Bistro offers creative dishes that are sure to tantalise your taste buds.

From the moment you step through the doors of this cosy establishment, you’ll feel right at home. The ambiance strikes a perfect balance between casual and stylish, with warm interiors and ambient lighting that make for a great dining experience. Whether you’re looking to enjoy a romantic dinner, a family gathering, or a business lunch that’s set to impress, Le Bistro offers the ideal setting.

The menu is brimming with fabulous options that cater to all tastes. Every dish is crafted with the utmost care, using only the freshest seasonal ingredients. For seafood aficionados, the Classical Bouillabaisse is a standout option. The delicate balance of flavours in this rich casserole is a true testament to the chef’s skills, with each ingredient simmered to perfection to create a harmonious symphony of taste. The dish boasts plump mussels, tender shrimp, and flaky white fish, cooked in a fragrant broth of tomatoes, white wine, garlic, leeks, and basil that will transport you straight to the Mediterranean.

If you’re a meat lover, the Beef Tagliata is a dish you simply cannot miss. The succulent slices of tender beef are perfectly cooked and served with a generous sprinkling of tangy pecorino cheese, a bed of fresh rucola, and a dollop of velvety mustard caviar that complements the flavours of the dish.

If you’re looking for the ultimate comfort food indulgence, you have to try The Bistro Special Burger. This is a feast of flavours and textures, starting with the juicy, perfectly cooked beef patty that’s topped with a slab of pan-fried foie gras for an extra touch of luxury. The brie cheese adds a creamy, nutty flavour that blends perfectly with the sweetness of the plum relish and the tangy pickled shallots. Trust us, you won’t regret indulging in this burger.

The dessert menu at Le Bistro is equally impressive. If you’re in the mood for something local, try the Homemade Date Fritters served alongside a ħelwa tat-tork ice cream. Or for something truly indulgent, the Gianduja and Baileys Semifreddo is simply exquisite.

Le Bistro’s service team is on hand to recommend the perfect wine pairing for your meal, whether you’re a connoisseur or simply enjoy a glass with your food. The restaurant boasts an extensive wine selection that complements the dishes perfectly.

With a constantly evolving menu of seasonal dishes, a cosy ambiance and an extensive wine selection, not to mention the convenient free parking for diners and the stunning outdoor terrace, it’s no wonder why Le Bistro has become a must-visit foodie haven in Malta. So why not make your reservation today on www.lebistromalta.com and experience a dining experience with a delightful twist?

MY EASTER LUNCH

Celebratory gatherings call for a special meal. Michael Diacono, chef patron at Giuseppi’s Bar and Bistro, prepares a sumptuous menu for Easter lunch at home.

Styling and photography: Brian Grech Wine recommendation: Andrew Azzopardi, Vintage 82

Seeing as I’m working during Easter lunch, we will not be entertaining guests at home. Had I been free and had we invited guests over for lunch, what would probably have been on the menu? One thing for sure is that I would avoid the obvious, roast lamb. It’s not that I do not like it. It’s just too easy to fall into that habitual trap. Another reason is preparation. I would want to have everything ready in the morning, leaving me with just the need to finish off the small things closer to lunch-time, without any last-minute panic – not that panic is really in my repertoire, but you never know. Prepare things ahead, and you can enjoy a relaxed lunch with your guests.

EASTER MENU (all recipes serve 8)

Jerusalem Artichoke Soup infused with espresso, served with home-baked foccacia

Broad bean and pecorino “mezzelune”, served with simple mint butter

Roast rack of veal “Bagna cauda”

Aunty Doda’s potatoes

Baked sprouting broccoli with flaked almonds

Vanilla bavarios with honeycomb

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE AND ESPRESSO SOUP

This is a delicate and totally delicious way to start a meal. The coffee gives the soup an intriguing background flavour. You may prepare this several days in advance and freeze it. When buying the artichokes, choose large ones which are as smooth as possible.

Preparation and cooking: 60 minutes

YOU WILL NEED:

800g Jerusalem artichokes

100g butter

3 leeks, peeled, washed and chopped

1.2l vegetable stock or water salt and pepper

1-2 strong espresso coffees

TO SERVE

a few tablespoons fresh cream roast coffee beans

1. Soak the artichokes in water then scrub them clean using a kitchen brush. Rinse them well, then chop them roughly.

2. Melt the butter in a pot, add the leeks and cook them for 5 minutes on medium heat, stirring often to soften the vegetable.

3. Add the artichokes and stir fry for a further 5 minutes before adding the stock. Season, bring the pot to the boil, then lower the heat. Cover the pot and let it simmer gently for 40 minutes. Next, use a stick blender to purée the soup. I always run this through a mouli for a finer finish.

4. Add 1 of the espresso coffees and taste the soup. If you prefer a stronger coffee presence, just add more. Check the seasoning then cool the soup and store it in the fridge until needed, or freeze it for a few days.

5. To serve, simply bring to the boil and garnish each plate with a light drizzle of cream and a few coffee beans.

EASY FOCACCIA

You can bake the bread weeks before you need it, and store it in the freezer.

Preparation, proving and cooking: 90 minutes

YOU WILL NEED:

500g strong plain flour • 2 teaspoons salt

11g (1 sachet) instant yeast • sea salt flakes

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

300ml water, plus 75ml for later extra-virgin olive oil to oil the pan and to drizzle over

1. Sift the flour into the bowl of the mixing machine. Add the salt and yeast. Attach the dough hook. With the motor running on low, add the extra-virgin olive oil and water. Work the resulting dough for 10 minutes. Remove the dough hook.

2. Lightly brush a low-rimmed baking pan with extra-virgin olive oil. Transfer the dough to the pan and spread it out. Cover the pan with a cloth and leave it to prove for an hour.

3. Preheat the oven to 220°C.

4. Poke the surface of the dough with your finger-tips. Drizzle it with extra-virgin olive oil and season it with sea salt flakes. Pour 75ml of water over the top.

5. Bake the focaccia for 20-25 minutes till well risen and golden. Allow it to cool before wrapping it well and storing in the freezer.

BROAD BEAN AND PECORINO ROMANO MEZZELUNE

The mezzelune only need a few minutes boiling straight from the freezer, so make them well before needed. They can be stored in a freezer for several weeks. The “sauce” is simplicity itself, as you would not want any heavy flavours to mask the delicate filling in the pasta.

Preparation, resting and cooking:2 hours 30 minutes

FOR THE PASTA:

400g strong plain flour

100g semolina

5 eggs

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

FOR THE FILLING:

500g broad beans, peeled and with the second skin removed (you may use a good quality frozen product)

200g ricotta

75g grated Pecorino Romano

Stagionato

freshly milled pepper

salt (add judiciously as cheese is salty)

1 handful fresh mint, chopped

1 egg to bind

1 egg, lightly beaten (to seal)

TO SERVE

175g butter

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

salt and pepper

1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint any grated cheese of your choice (I used ricotta salata)

1. Prepare the pastry in the usual manner using a food processor, then wrap it in cling film and leave to rest for at least one hour. You may also make it the day before you intend working on your mezzelune and leave in the fridge overnight.

2. Place the beans in a large mixing bowl. If you are using a frozen product, make sure they are fully defrosted and drained well. Use a fork to mash the beans roughly. Lightly beat the ricotta to soften it and add to the beans. Add the grated Pecorino. Mix well, then season. Add the chopped mint and stir to incorporate it. Add one egg, and stir the mixture well.

3. Remove the pastry from the fridge. Roll it out using a pasta machine and use a 10cm round cutter to cut out the pasta shapes.

4. Use a teaspoon to place filling in the centre of each piece of pasta, then brush all around the edges with

the beaten egg. Fold the pastry over and press lightly with your fingers seal to make half-moon shapes.

5. Store the mezzelune on baking paper-lined baking sheets. Do not let them touch each other. When you have filled up one tray, place it in the freezer to open freeze the mezzelune.

6. When the pastry is firm enough, transfer the mezzelune to a rigid box which has a tight-fitting lid to store them in the freezer.

7. To cook, bring a large pot of salted water to the boil and add the mezzelune straight from the freezer. Cook them for not more than 5 minutes.

8. To serve, melt the butter with the extra-virgin olive oil. Season, and add the mint.

9. Simply toss the mezzelune for a minute in the sauce and serve them garnished with some cheese shavings.

ROAST RACK OF VEAL

Slow-roasting at a lower temperature makes this an easy way to prepare the main dish. Sear the meat the day before and roast it on Easter Sunday morning. A meat thermometer is a great help.

Preparation and cooking: 2 hours

YOU WILL NEED:

2.2kg (approximately)

piece of veal rack

4 sprigs fresh rosemary

salt and pepper

100g butter

50ml extra-virgin olive oil

2 oranges, chopped

2 onions, peeled and chopped

1. Remove the leaves of the rosemary from the stalks and chop them finely using a sharp chef’s knife. Season the veal well with salt and pepper. Spread the chopped rosemary onto a clean board then press the seasoned veal down onto this. The rosemary will stick to the meat.

2. Melt the butter in the extravirgin olive oil in a large heavy pan. Sear the veal for a few minutes on all sides to let it colour, then transfer it to an oven-proof dish. Surround the meat with the chopped oranges and onions, then pour the juices from the pan all over. Let the meat cool before covering the dish with baking paper then with foil. Place the dish in the fridge.

3. On Easter Sunday, remove the veal from the fridge at least one hour before roasting. Set the oven to 80°C. Remove the foil and paper from the meat. Place the dish in the oven and roast the meat for approximately 90 minutes till the core temperature reaches 55°C (medium rare).

4. Remove the dish from the oven, cover it with foil and let it rest for 20 minutes before carving and serving.

BAGNA CAUDA

This is actually a great dip from Piedmont normally served with crudités during aperitivo time. It is really not for the faint hearted as the amount of garlic is eye-watering, but cooking the garlic in milk beforehand tempers the strong taste. The result is an anchovy lover’s elixir. I used this as a sort of relish to accompany the veal, as in “Vitello Tonnato”. Prepare the “bagna cauda” two days beforehand. I think it improves in flavour.

YOU WILL NEED:

60 cloves garlic, peeled (yes, 60 cloves) 400ml whole milk 200g drained anchovies

1. Put the garlic and milk into a pot and place it on the heat. Bring the pot to the boil, then reduce the heat and let it pot simmer gently for about 15 minutes till the garlic softens.

2. Add the anchovies and cook while stirring with a wooden spoon for another 5 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a food processor and blitz it.

3. Run the mixture through a mouli, or a press it through a fine mesh sieve to get rid of any small fish bones that might remain. Aim for a smooth, velvety finish.

4. Cover the mixture and store it in the fridge until needed. Warm it gently in a pan before serving.

BAKED SPROUTING BROCCOLI

This is one of the simplest side dishes ever. There is really nothing to it. Prepare the vegetable the day before serving and simply put it into the oven for 5 minutes the next day.

YOU WILL NEED:

600g sprouting broccoli

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil salt and pepper

2 tablespoons toasted almond flakes

1. Place the broccoli onto a flat baking sheet and drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil. Season lightly. Cover the dish with foil and keep it in the fridge till needed.

2. Set the oven to 180°C. Bake the broccoli uncovered for 5 minutes. Serve at once sprinkled with the toasted almonds.

WINE PAIRING

Andrew Azzopardi, Vintage 82

When preparing for a dinner with the family, it’s usually practical to choose wines that are easy-drinking and fresh. To accompany this menu, I would choose a fresh and juicy white wine, high in acidity and without any oak, such as a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. A mineral and fresh Riesling is also a good alternative, but make sure it’s a dry-style otherwise it will contrast too much with the soup.

Since these celebratory family meals usually last a while, I like to choose medium-bodied wines that won’t be too heavy for the guests. I may opt for a Beaujolais Cru such a Fleurie, which is floral, light, fresh, and dangerously enjoyable.  While I would steer away from heavily oaked or high alcohol wines, I may offer a mature Bordeaux-blend to go with the veal.

On a special occasion like an Easter gathering, I like to bring out a bottle of sweet wine which would easily be shared among the whole family. A late harvest Riesling or botrytis-infected Tokaji would work perfectly with the white chocolate and vanilla bavarois.

AUNTY DODA’S POTATOES

My mother’s aunt would prepare these when she had guests over. They have remained a favourite with all of my family. Prepare the day before serving, and finish baking it in the morning.

YOU WILL NEED:

16 large potatoes

salt and pepper

150g flour

2 teaspoons turmeric

50g butter

75ml vegetable oil

1. Peel the potatoes, wash them and cut them into large chunks. Par boil the potatoes in salted water till they are al dente. This will take approximately 5 minutes. Drain the potatoes and set them aside.

2. Sift the flour into a bowl. Stir in the turmeric, and season with salt and pepper.

3. Use the butter to grease a large, metal baking dish.

4. Roll the potatoes through the seasoned flour while they are still warm and place them in the greased dish. Drizzle with the vegetable oil. Cover the dish with baking paper and foil and store it in the fridge till needed.

5. Remove the potatoes from the fridge one hour before baking. Set the oven to 180°C. Bake the potatoes, uncovered, for 40 minutes, turning them once during the cooking time.

WHITE CHOCOLATE AND VANILLA BAVAROIS

You can make this two days before serving. It will sit happily in the fridge as long as it is well covered.

YOU WILL NEED:

1 packet digestive biscuits

70g butter, melted

250ml fresh cream

450g good quality white chocolate

2 gelatine leaves

2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

380ml fresh cream, whipped

TO SERVE:

honeycomb

fresh strawberries

icing sugar

1. Crush the biscuits in a food processor, then add the melted butter. Press the mixture into a 22cm springform tin.

2. Place the cream and white chocolate into a heat-proof bowl and place this over a bowl of boiling water. Heat it through till the chocolate melts.

3. Place the gelatine sheets into a bowl full of water for a few seconds to soften them. Then remove them using your hands and squeeze out as much water as you can before stirring them into the melted white chocolate. Add the vanilla extract.

4. Let the mixture cool slightly before folding in the whipped cream. Pour the mixture into the biscuit-lined springform tin. Wrap it well in cling film and place it in the fridge.

5. At lunchtime, remove the bavarois from the springform tin and transfer it to a serving dish. Serve slices of the bavarois topped with honeycomb and fresh strawberries, and dusted with icing sugar.

HONEYCOMB

Crunchy and sweet, honeycomb is perfect to garnish most desserts, especially soft and creamy ones, as it provides a great textural contrast. Make the honeycomb a few days before it’s needed and store it in a covered container in the freezer. A word of warning: do not make honeycomb when humid, southern winds are blowing or it will dissolve into a sticky mess.

YOU WILL NEED:

200g sugar

100g golden syrup

2 teaspoons bicarbonate of soda

1. Line a baking sheet with baking paper. Place the sugar and golden syrup into a heavy-based pot and heat it up gently till you get a golden brown caramel.

2. Working quickly, remove the pot from the heat and use a wooden spoon to stir in the bicarbonate of soda. The mixture will froth up quite dramatically. Stir the mixture just enough to work in the bicarbonate of soda. The more you stir the mix, the smaller the bubbles will be.

3. Pour the mixture onto the lined baking sheet and let it cool and set completely before storing in a very airtight container. You may also wrap the honeycomb well in non-stick paper and cling fil, and store it in the freezer for longer periods.

A MATTER OF TASTE

Together with a couple of clients, I was recently invited to the charming estate of Château Angludet in Margaux for dinner with James Sichel. James, who owns both Château Angludet and the more famous “super second” Château Palmer is a charismatic man who never fails to impress with his intimate dinners and great wines. The food we were served was relatively simple but extremely tasty and it was obvious that the focus was going to be on the wines.

Seven wine decanters were neatly lined up on the sidetable, but no bottles were in sight. I instantly understood James’ plan. He was going to serve all seven of the wines he prepared that evening in a “blind” format. We were going to be served wine directly from a crystal decanter without seeing the label, and having to identify the country, region, subregion, vintage and possibly the exact Château. It was going to be a dinner of swirling, sniffing, sipping, and swishing. Blind tasting is always a humbling experience, and this time was no different. I admit to missing the mark many a time, though I did get pretty close on a few.

Tasting blind is notoriously hard and, in my own defence, many of the world’s best sommeliers often get it wrong, such that only 10% of Master Sommeliers – the highest wine accreditation – get it correct in the first try, but it is a unique event. Despite a great chance of being wrong, you get to eliminate all preconceived notions and work with just the glass of wine handed to you. This means that, when served a wine and we’re told what it is, we have certain expectations.

If we are served a Chablis, we would expect high acidity and mineral or steely notes, and any different other flavours may leave us disappointed in the wine. If we are served the same Chablis without seeing the label – therefore, blind – and we get the same unusual flavours come through, we are thrown off on the original idea of Chablis. To further complicate matters, most Chablis don’t have any oak influence, but this also means that some Chablis, especially Premier Cru or Grand Cru may have some oak influence, so evaluating whether the wine is simply a Chablis can still be a complicated affair.

As in sports, training and practise in wine tasting are key to improving. While there are people who enjoy the proverbial shooting from the hip, blind tasting is a process that usually requires the careful detection of a wine’s characteristics, and access to a mental and experiential database of which traits match which wines. Most sommeliers like to use the WSET (Wine Spirits Education Trust) method to evaluating wines.

Visual

The first step requires you to look at the colour of the wine against a white background. We may already start to make up assumptions such that Pinot Noir is lighter in colour to Cabernet Sauvignon and Californian oak-aged Chardonnays are darker than their un-oaked French cousins, Chablis. A brown tinge or tawny colour in a red wine often means the wine is on the mature side, but a visual examination is only a part of the process and the next steps should reconfirm your first impressions.

Swirl & sniff

Swirling the wine in the glass is akin to turning up the volume of a loudspeaker, and, as you can imagine, we want the volume turned up to the maximum level when blind tasting. The more you swirl, the more you oxygenate the wine and release all the scents, smells, and flavours. When smelling the wine, look for a reconfirmation of what was first seen in the glass. If the wine was a tawny colour, you wouldn’t expect big fruit flavours but rather tertiary smells such as barnyard, earthy notes, or cigar-box smells to be dominant. If this is the case, you can be confident that the wine is rather mature.

Pinpointing the scents is a surprisingly difficult affair. Sommeliers need to dig deep into their memory bank to recall the scents and put them into words. There are special sommelier kits that one could use to train the nose on simple scents such as vanilla, pepper, toast, cranberry or blackberry but training the nose on more complex scents such as used leather, freshly cut grass, cedar, or lanolin, can be quite hard. It’s not unusual to hear of sommeliers

Swirling the wine in the glass is akin to turning up the volume of a loudspeaker.

Blind tasting wine is a humbling affair, says Andrew Azzopardi, but the most important point is to have fun and learn about yourself and, ultimately, the wines you taste.

Andrew Azzopardi enjoys a wine tasting dinner at Chateau Palmer.

specifically looking for such items to smell and record in their memory bank. Next time you’re at the supermarket, you might catch me at the fruit section smelling the citrus fruits and comparing the scents of lemon, lime, or grapefruit.

Taste

When finally tasting a wine, we first look at the wine’s structure. This broadly consists of the relationship between its acidity, alcohol, glycerol, and tannin and is the first, and sometimes most important, thing to learn when analysing wine, especially vintage wine.

Unless we are being served wines at a wine tasting or blind tasting, we try to avoid making funny swishing and sucking noises with our mouths, but this is such an important part of the ritual. Just like the swirling of wine in the glass is likened to increasing the volume on the stereo, I would equate the swishing and sucking noises to putting on the surround system.

Our tongue is covered in taste buds and we want the wine to hit each part of our tongue several times for us to determine the flavours in the wine. Sometimes a flavour, though obvious, tends to overpower more subtle flavours, and we tend to repeat the swirling process to try and coerce other flavours to emerge. The sommelier would then make mental notes of each of the primary, secondary, and tertiary flavours to try to deduce what the wine may be.

Recognising different scents and flavours is not easy and many wine experts like to use an elimination method when tasting wine. Having enough knowledge in the memory bank, they would go through several flavours and scents that could possibly be found in the wine and they start by eliminating or confirming each flavour in their memory. So, if wine has an orange-brown tint to it and I am expecting notes that point me in the direction of a Bordeaux wine, I would start working through the flavours I would expect from Bordeaux. Do I get notes of cigar-box and blackcurrant?

While this may sound a bit like hocus-pocus, our memory and palate can be trained. When I was younger, I remember trying to guess the ingredients my mum used in her cooking. As I got older, after going to a restaurant, I would often go home and see if I could recreate a dish I had tried. It is not only important to be exposed to certain flavours, but to intentionally take note of what we are tasting. This helps to pinpoint them at a later stage with greater ease because they’ve subconsciously or consciously entered our memory bank.

Sometimes, we taste a wine that is so memorable the flavours are imprinted in our memory bank. It just all comes together. When we came to the last wine that night, I knew it would be special. I swirled, sniffed, and tasted. It was definitely special. The structure was serious and the balance on point. The flavours were precise, delicate, and ethereal. It was immensely complex, yet so familiar. I looked at James and told him that I felt this was up there with the greatest wines of Bordeaux. He nodded and smiled.

I didn’t hesitate at calling out Château Palmer 1983. I didn’t need to go through to the whole process of picking up notes and flavours. I had tasted this legendary vintage of Château Palmer some three years ago and it was imprinted in my memory. It was the only wine in which I was correct, but what a wine it was.

Some may say that the point of a blind tasting to get the wine right, but I disagree. The most important point is to have fun and learn about yourself and ultimately the wines you taste. In sommelier exams, your mental process of getting to what you think the wine is, is in fact more important than the final answer.

A fundamental part of learning from blind tasting is for the wine to be revealed before you finish your glass so that you can go back to analysing the wine once the label is exposed. Now is the time to memorise all those flavours that relate to this particular wine. If it’s served to you again, will you guess what it is next time? n

Andrew Azzopardi is a wine specialist certified by the Wines and Spirit Education Trust.

The seven wines were served from decanters and the bottle labels only revealed after the blind tasting.

Chateau Pichon Baron Longueville.

SLOW-ROASTED SPRING LAMB SHOULDER WITH PRESERVED LEMONS, OLIVES, ROSEMARY AND GARLIC

Jonathan Zammit, Head Chef at Corinthia Palace, Attard, prepares an incredibly versatile dish that can star at an informal family lunch, or be served as a show-stopping dinner.

Serves 6

Preparation:45 minutes

(marinate overnight, preferably)

Cooking: 2 ½ - 3 hours

“Slow–cooking is one of my all-time favourite cooking methods, as it brings out delicious and succulent tastes and flavours. The ingredients used here are reminiscent of various Mediterranean and North African dishes. The deep citrus flavours from the preserved lemons complement the salty notes of the capers and anchovies.

“As it slowly cooks in the oven, the roast fills the home with deep aromas of marinating ingredients that merge to create an authentic umami dish. Preparing the dish well in advance allows me to socialise with my friends and colleagues, bringing us together to share our love of good food.”

YOU WILL NEED

1 lamb shoulder, around 2 kg

100g olives • 5 garlic cloves

500ml chicken stock

10ml honey

6-8 anchovies

15g capers, rinsed

6g toasted coriander seeds, ground

8g toasted cumin seeds, ground

2 teaspoons ras el hanout

2 preserved lemons, chopped

fresh mint leaves

fresh dill

fresh thyme

fresh rosemary

2 bay leaves

30ml olive oil

2 sliced onion

1. Pre-heat oven to 200°C.

2. Place the garlic, honey, anchovies, coriander, cumin, capers, mint, dill and basil in a food processor. Add the olive oil to make a paste.

3. Rub the lamb with the marinade and season with ras el hanout and allow it to marinate overnight.

4. Place the sliced onions in a roasting tray and place the lamb on top, add all the marinade and juices. Sprinkle with the olives and the chopped preserved lemons. Add the bay leaves and picked thyme and rosemary.

5. Add the chicken stock and cover the lamb with grease proof paper and then cover this with foil. Make sure it is completely sealed.

6. Roast in a pre-heated oven for 30 minutes, then reduce the temperature to 145°C and continue to cook for a further two hours.

7. After 2 ½ hours, remove the dish from the oven and check whether it is done. It might need some more time to cook properly.

8. Serve with sautéed spring greens and salt baked new potatoes.

Sunday Roast at Villa Corinthia

Decadent culinary experience, soothing live music, and free-flowing prosecco are all celebrated features of Corinthia Palace’s Sunday Roast. Dive into a selection of starters and mouth-watering mains. Afterward, indulge in the carvery section showcasing everyone’s favorite roast dishes like crackling pork belly, stuffed lamb, roasted sirloin, and more. If there’s room for more, satisfy your sweet tooth with an irresistible dessert. Pairing the grandeur aesthetic of Villa Corinthia with the promise of a vibrant Sunday Roast guarantees a lunch to remember.

Book by calling +356 2544 2732 or e-mail dining.palace@corinthia.com

Easter Bread

Baking and photography: Claire Borg

When thinking about a theme for the Easter issue of Taste&Flair, I knew right away what I wanted to do – bake Easter breads from different countries. Baking bread takes time and patience, but the process of mixing and kneading and proving is calming and comforting. Before you start, check the expiry date on your yeast. If it’s expired or very close to expiry, yeast will not activate and all your work will go to waste. I have overlooked this step before, and know this through experience. The richer the dough, the longer it will have to prove but the 2-hour proving time may vary according to the ambient temperature. In cooler weather, cover the bowl super well, warm your oven to 30 degrees and then let your dough prove inside the very slightly warm oven. I baked these breads when it was still really cold, and I needed that little extra help. When the weather is warmer, the dough will prove faster. What if you add more yeast to speed up the process? Your dough may taste of yeast, and it will be harder to digest.  So just be a little patient.

There’s comfort to be had in savouring the scent and taste of freshly baked bread. Wherever you come from, and however far you go, a mouthful of fresh bread takes you right back home.

PINCA Croatian Easter Bread

YOU WILL NEED:

500g plain flour

11g sachet instant yeast

50 g butter, at room temperature

50g lard, at room temperature

30 g white sugar

30g brown sugar

2 whole eggs

3 egg yolks

1 tablespoon rosewater

1 tablespoon spiced or dark rum

100ml milk – warm

½ teaspoon salt

zest of 1 orange

zest of 1 lemon

FOR BRUSHING egg wash

pearl sugar or almond flakes

In a large bowl, mix the flour, yeast, sugar, salt and zests, then add the soft butter and lard.  In another bowl, mix the remaining ingredients, then mix everything together until a dough begins to form.

Turn the dough onto a clean surface and knead it for ten minutes (or, using the hook attachment, work in a mixer for ten minutes).

Place the dough in a clean bowl, cover it and let it rest until it doubles in size. This will take approximately two hours.

Knock back the dough and let it rest for 10 minutes. Divide it into 4 pieces and roll them into smooth buns. Place these on a lined baking sheet, cover them with a light cloth and let them rest until they puff up. This will take 30-40 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 180°C. Brush each bun with egg wash, then cut three slashes on the top with a blade or sharp scissors. Sprinkle the buns with pearl sugar and bake them in a hot oven for 20-25 minutes.

PANE DI PASQUA

Italian Easter Bread

Colouring the eggs for this was a challenge. It boils down to the quality of food colouring you use. The more natural ones are those that stain less. What worked for me was to first clean the eggs with alcohol (I used vodka), leaving them to dry, then using food colouring in powder form. I dipped the brush in a little water, then into the powder and painted away. The eggs dry immediately. You can use other colorants, but just be ready to stain your fingers. In traditional recipes, the eggs that are coloured are raw. They bake in the oven and cook to a perfect “hard-boiled” consistency. However, they might crack. I used raw and one out of four cracked. A safer way would be to boil them beforehand, let them cool, then paint them.

YOU WILL NEED:

500g plain flour • 150g sugar

100g soft butter • 2 eggs

100ml warm milk • 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoon lemon zest

FOR THE TOPPING: egg wash (1 egg beaten with some milk) 4 coloured eggs • sprinkles

1. In a large bowl, mix the flour, sugar, yeast, salt and lemon zest.  Add the butter, eggs, and warm milk, and mix until well combined. Knead the dough either by hand or in the mixer using a hook attachment, for ten minutes.

2. Cover the dough and let it rest for 2-3 hours until it is half as large again, or doubles in size.

3. Knock it back and let it rest for 10 minutes. Cut it into 4 equal pieces (I weighed them, to be precise) and roll each piece into long strip of about 60cm. Fold the strips in half and twist them onto each other, then join the ends to form a ring.

4. Place the dough rings on a baking sheet lined with baking paper, cover it and let it prove for 30 minutes.

5. Preheat the oven to 185°C. Gently brush the surface with egg wash, then place the coloured egg in the middle and scatter with sprinkles. Bake for about 25 minutes or until the bread is golden.

QAGĦAQ TA’ L-APPOSTLI

Maltese Easter Bread

There’s nothing like the home-baked version of this traditional bread, savoured piping hot, right out of the oven. This recipe makes two small bread rings or one large one.

YOU WILL NEED:

500g plain flour

120g sugar

1 sachet yeast (approximately 11g)

2 teaspoons aniseed (ħlewwa)

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 pinch ground nutmeg

1 teaspoon lemon zest

1 teaspoon mandarin or orange zest

30ml water

juice from 1 orange –approximately 50ml

100ml warm milk

100g soft butter

2 egg yolks

50g raw almonds, sliced, plus extra for the top 100g candied peel (optional – I prefer not using this)

sesame seeds egg wash (one egg beaten with some milk)

1. In a large bowl, mix the sugar, spices, zests and flour. Dissolve the yeast in the water. Mix together the yeasted water, juice from the orange and warm milk and add these to the flour.

2. Add the yolks and soft butter and mix everything together until even. Turn the dough out onto a clean surface and knead it for about 10 minutes.

3. Add the sliced almonds (and candied peel, if you are using it) and mix it in evenly. Place the dough in a clean bowl, cover it and let it rest until it doubles in size. This will take approximately two hours.

4. Knock back the dough, let it rest for ten minutes (covered) and shape it into a ring. Place the dough onto a baking sheet, cover it and let it rest for another 20-30 minutes. Meanwhile, heat up the oven to 200°C.

5. Glaze the dough with egg wash, sprinkle it with sesame seeds, and decorate with whole raw almonds. Bake for about 30 minutes or until the bread turns golden and sounds hollow when tapped.

COZONAC

Romanian Easter Bread

I like to prepare the filling for this the evening before the baking. If you do, store it in the fridge and bring back to room temperature before using.

YOU WILL NEED:

550g bread flour

100g sugar

1 sachet yeast (approximately 11g)

zest from one lemon

zest from one orange

125g soft butter

a few drops of vanilla essence

25ml water

25 ml spiced rum

1 egg

1 yolk

170ml warm milk

FOR THE FILLING:

115ml milk

75g sugar

100g ground walnuts or almonds

25ml spiced rum

1 tablespoon orange zest

¼ teaspoon ground coffee

15g cocoa powder

TO GLAZE: egg wash natural brown sugar

1. To make the filling, place the milk, sugar, and ground nuts in a small saucepan and cook, stirring with a spatula all the time. Add the rest of the ingredients and continue to cook the mixture until it thickens to a paste.  Set it aside to cool.

2. In a large bowl, mix the flour, yeast, sugar, and zests, then add the soft butter.  In another bowl, mix the remaining ingredients, then mix everything together evenly into a dough.

3. Turn the dough onto a clean surface and knead it for ten minutes. Place the kneaded dough in a clean bowl, cover it and let it rest until it doubles in size (approximately 2 hours). Knock back the dough and let it rest for 10 minutes.

4. On a lightly floured surface, roll open the dough into a large rectangle. Spread the filling in a thin layer all over the surface and roll up the dough. Place the roll in a large loaf tin (1.5-2 kg loaf tin), cover the tin and let the dough prove for about 30 to 40 minutes.

5. Preheat the oven to 190°C. Brush the surface with egg wash, sprinkle with natural brown sugar, and bake in a hot oven for approximately 20 minutes. Now, cover the tin with a double sheet of foil and continue to bake for another 20-25 minutes until done.

Swedish Easter Bread with Cardamom

YOU WILL NEED:

600g plain flour

150g sugar

1 sachet instant yeast (approximately 11g)

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground

cardamom

1 teaspoon salt

1 egg

100g soft butter

200ml warm milk

FOR THE GLAZE AND TOPPING: egg wash (1 egg beaten with some milk)

pearl sugar

1. Mix the flour, yeast, sugar and spices. Mix the warm milk and water together, beat in the egg, and add the melted butter. Pour the liquid into the dry ingredients, stir to combine, then knead for ten minutes.

2. Place the dough in a clean bowl, cover it and let it stand until it doubles in size. This can take up to 2 hours. Knock back the dough and let it rest for ten minutes while covered.

3. Braid the dough and shape it into a ring. Place this on a baking sheet, cover it, and let it rest for another 20-30 minutes.

4. Preheat the oven to 190°C. Glaze the dough with egg wash and sprinkle it with pearl sugar

5. Bake in the preheated oven for about 40 minutes or until it sounds hollow when tapped.

TSOUREKI

Greek Easter Bread

Mahlepi is a fragrant spice made from the seeds of cherries. It is not a easy find here in Malta so I ordered mine online from a UK spice shop which is my go-to supplier for unusual spices. If you or a friend are travelling to the Greek islands, put Mahlepi on your to-buy list. It is worth trying and a little goes a long way. You can substitute Mahlepi with some ground cardamom and nutmeg if you want to aromatise the bread; however, the flavour is not the same. Mahlepi tastes a little bit like bitter almonds, cherries, and a hint of rose and vanilla.

YOU WILL NEED:

500g plain flour

11g yeast sachet

125ml warm milk

2 eggs

60g sugar

zest of 2 oranges

juice of 2 oranges

2 teaspoons Mahlepi

75g soft butter

red eggs (see below)

milk or egg wash for brushing before baking (one egg beaten with some milk)

sesame seeds or flaked almonds (optional)

HOW TO MAKE RED EGGS

1. The traditional way to make red eggs is using onion skins. I collected a big bag of onion skins (approximately 100g) and when I had enough, I placed them in a large pot of water, added 2 tablespoons of salt and boiled them for 30 minutes.

2. Set the liquid aside to cool, then remove the onion skins and place the whole white eggs in the dark onion water. Let them stand for an

hour, then place the pot on the heat and bring it to the boil.

3. Let the eggs boil for 8 minutes, then let them cool in the water for dark red eggs. If you want a lighter colour, remove the eggs right after boiling and set them aside to cool. These are best prepared the day before and kept in fridge.

TO MAKE THE BREAD

1. Mix the flour, yeast, sugar, zest, butter and Mahlepi. Add the warm milk, eggs, and orange juice and knead everything together for ten minutes.

2. Place the dough in a clean bowl, cover it and let it stand until the dough doubles in size. This can take up to 2 hours, or even a little longer.

3. Knock back the dough, let it rest for ten minutes, then cut it into equal pieces. I made a 7-strand braid, but a 3-strand braid will do just fine. Roll the dough pieces into strips, braid them, then place the eggs in the braided dough, and transfer it onto a lined baking sheet.

4. Cover the dough and let it rest for another 20-30 minutes. Meanwhile, heat up the oven to 190°C.

5. Glaze the dough with egg wash or milk and sprinkle it with some sesame seeds or almond flakes. Bake in the preheated oven for about 30-40 minutes or until it turns golden and sounds hollow when tapped.

YOU WILL NEED:

500g plain flour

1 sachet yeast

(approximately 11g)

80g sugar

1 teaspoon salt

50g soft butter

2 egg yolks

230ml warm milk

200 g sultanas

1 teaspoon mixed spice

½ teaspoon cinnamon

1 pinch nutmeg

1 tablespoon mandarin

peel finely chopped (or grated orange zest)

1 tablespoon grated

lemon zest

HOT CROSS BUNS

Hot cross buns! Hot cross buns! One a penny, two a penny, Hot cross buns!

If you have no daughters, Give them to your sons. One a penny, two a penny, Hot cross buns!

Originally a vendor’s street cry, the English ditty eventually became a nursery rhyme that taught countless children a sense of rhythm. Hot cross buns are traditionally eaten to mark the end of Lent. For a nostalgic taste of childhood, this recipe makes an even dozen.

FOR THE CROSSES:

75g plain flour

70g water

TO GLAZE AFTER BAKING:

2 tablespoons golden syrup

4 tablespoons water

1. In a large bowl, mix the flour, sugar, yeast, salt, spices and zests.  Add the butter, egg yolks, and warm milk and mix until well combined.

Knead the dough either by hand or in the mixer using a hook attachment, for ten minutes.

2. Add the sultanas and knead them in by hand. Cover the dough and let it rest for 2-3 hours, until it doubles in size. Knock back the dough and let it rest for 10 minutes.

3. Cut the dough into 12 equal pieces and roll them into balls. Place them on a lined baking tray, slightly apart, cover the tray and let the buns prove for another 30 minutes. Meanwhile, prepare the paste for the crosses,

just by mixing the flour and water together until smooth, and place the mixture in a piping bag.

4. When the buns have proved, preheat the oven to 190°C and pipe the bun tops with crosses and bake them in a preheated oven for about 20-25 minutes. Prepare the golden syrup glaze by mixing the ingredients together. Brush the warm buns with the glaze when they’re just out of the oven.

St Christopher Str. Valletta

one80

Six years after the first one80 restaurant was opened, the concept comes home to the island’s capital city, offering the same high-level quality experience.

“The view of the majestic Grand Harbour from the Upper Barrakka Gardens in Valletta is what originally inspired the one80 name,” say one80’s founders, Rouvin Zammit Apap and Jesmond Vella, so it is fitting that their latest restaurant is opening in the heart of Malta’s capital city. “The Valletta outlet marks a new chapter in the one80 story, with the same high-level quality experience. Our city-centre outlet is where we’re truly refining the one80 concept,” they add.

“a colourful explosion of flavour in every bite”

Photography Mike Bonello Ghio.

one80 “Tal-Belt” combines all the right ingredients, developing a fresh concept for one80’s most intimate restaurant yet. The rustic menu highlights the freshness and flavour of dishes inspired by Mediterranean cuisine, with Asian and Middle Eastern influences. The result is a colourful explosion of flavour in every bite that can be paired with a selection of wines from the extensive wine library.

The restaurant’s interior is a pleasant and welcoming setting for a relaxed lunch, casual evening or celebratory dinner, its green-painted walls echoing the colour of many of the city’s traditional closed balconies. The culinary art served at table is complemented by Maltese artist Darren Tanti’s hand-painted portraits that provide glimpses of contemporary Maltese society. Classic and contemporary Maltese and Italian music plays discreetly in the background. For business lunches and events, a private room will soon be available downstairs. n

Chef Bio

Unsurprisingly, Head Chef Ryan Vella’s favourite pastime is cooking. He discovered his passion while working as a waiter during his student years and every dish served at one80 “Tal-Belt” is one that he truly loves. Ryan attended culinary school in Malta, where he lent a helping hand in the kitchen. Shortly afterwards, he moved to the UK where he learned from leading chefs including Tom Kerridge at The Hand and Flowers, and spent six months cooking at L’enclume in Cartmel in the Lake District.

Ryan’s food ethos is simple: it should look and taste good, without being too refined, and should emphasise flavour. Inspired by well-known chefs Tom Kerridge, Yotam Ottolenghi, and Greg Malouf, his menus blend Mediterranean and Middle Eastern flavours with Asian influences and are based on fresh ingredients sourced in the Maltese islands.

The rustic menu highlights the freshness and flavour of dishes inspired by Mediterranean cuisine, with Asian and Middle Eastern influences.

FRESH HARVEST

Fields and farms are brimming with colourful produce that can be turned into light, refreshing soup and salads with little effort.

Photography: Corinne Vella

Most of the fresh ingredients we used here were bought directly from a farmer. The range of available produce is limited and dependent on the prevailing weather conditions in the growing season, but the taste is so much better.

PURPLE CAULIFLOWER AND PARSLEY SALAD

YOU WILL NEED:

1 small purple cauliflower

1 red onion

1 large bunch fresh parsley

4 thin stems of celery

2 tablespoons capers

1 spring onion

white wine vinegar

2 tablespoons pine nuts

FOR THE DRESSING:

1 small lemon

extra-virgin olive oil

salt and pepper

1. Peel and slice the onion. Place the slices in a glass or ceramic bowl and pour in white wine vinegar until the onion is completely covered. Place a small saucer in the bowl to weigh down the onion. Set this aside.

2. Soak the capers in water for a few minutes to remove some of the vinegar. Drain, and set aside. Lightly toast the pine nuts and then set them aside to cool.

3. Put the olive oil into a small jar. Zest and juice the lemon and add these to the jar. Close the jar and shake it for a minute then let it stand until needed.

4. Trim the leaves off the cauliflower and break it up into florets. If you don’t like it raw, blanch the cauliflower lightly in hot water for under a minute, then drain and run it under cold water to stop it cooking. The colour will dull slightly to a bluish shade.

5. Put the cauliflower into a serving bowl. Pick off the parsley leaves, peel and shred the spring onion, finely chop the celery, and add these ingredients to the bowl. Add the drained capers and pine nuts and a few strands of pickled onion. Pour in the dressing and toss everything well. Store in the fridge until serving time.

Serves 2

YOU WILL NEED:

6 large carrots

2 blood oranges

2 small chilli peppers

1 bunch fresh coriander

1 small bunch fresh mint

3 tablespoons pistachios

125g feta cheese

FOR THE DRESSING

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 tablespoon cumin

1 teaspoon orange blossom water

1 tablespoon wild thyme honey

coarse sea salt

crushed black pepper

1. Lightly toast the cumin in a frying pan (this will take under a minute), set it aside to cool, then crush it using a pestle and mortar.

2. Put the oil in a mixing bowl. Add the lemon juice, honey, orange blossom water, and the crushed cumin. Whisk until well combined, then season to taste with salt and pepper.

3. Scrub the carrots clean and use a grater to shred them coarsely. Place the shredded carrot in a large salad bowl. Zest the blood oranges, remove the pith and chop the fruit into small pieces. Add the zest and chopped fruit to the salad bowl.

4. Pick off the coriander and mint leaves. You should have a loose handful of each. Shred the larger leaves using your fingers and lightly crush the herbs using your hands. Add them to the bowl.

5. Chop the pistachios, deseed and chop the chillis, and crumble the feta. Add these to the bowl and toss everything together. Drizzle in the dressing and toss again. Adjust the seasoning, if necessary, and serve immediately.

COURGETTE AND BROAD BEAN SALAD

Serves 2

YOU WILL NEED:

4 medium-sized long courgettes

150g broad beans (both skins removed)

1 small bunch fresh mint

2 small red chilli peppers

1 thin stem fresh garlic (optional)

FOR THE DRESSING:

juice of ½ a lemon

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

salt and pepper

1. Scrub the courgettes, remove the stem and use a vegetable peeler to shave them into long strips. Avoid the seeded cores. These can be set aside for another use.

2. Blanch the broad beans in boiling water for up to one minute and immediately remove them and plunge them into cold water to stop them cooking. Skip this step if the beans are young and tender.

3. Top and tail the garlic stem and remove the outer leaf. Shred the garlic finely (white part only). Deseed and shred the chilli peppers. Pick off the mint leaves until you have a loose handful.

4. Toss the beans with the shredded garlic and chill. Add the olive oil and lemon juice and toss again.

5. Arrange the courgette slices on a serving plate. Add the dressed beans, scatter with mint leaves, season to taste, and serve immediately.

PEA AND MINT SOUP

Serves 2

YOU WILL NEED:

400g new peas (shelled)

1 small red onion

1 small clove garlic

1 handful mint leaves

1 tablespoon butter

1 tablespoon olive oil

450ml vegetable stock

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Melt the butter in a soup pot with the olive oil. Peel and finely chop the onion, add it to the pot and let it cook gently until it softens without colouring. This will only take a few minutes. Peel and finely chop the garlic, then add it to the pot and cook for half a minute

2. Roughly chop the mint and add this to the pot along with the shelled peas and vegetable stock. Let the pot simmer until the peas are soft (about 5 minutes).

3. Remove the pot from the heat and use a stick blender to blitz the ingredients into a soup, taking care to avoid the hot liquid splattering. Season to taste.

4. If you prefer the soup warm, ladle it into serving bowls, drizzle with olive oil, garnish the soup with fresh mint leaves and serve it immediately with crusty bread. Alternatively, allow the soup to cool down naturally before serving. If storing the soup in the fridge, allow it to reach room temperature before serving.

COURTYARDTHE

A contemporary home in Dingli draws on a concept from the classical era

Photography: Tonio Lombardi

Architectural Design: Daniel Scerri Periti [DSP]

Design team: Perit Daniel Scerri and Perit Rebecca Zammit

Structural Consultancy: Perit Reuben Muscat

COURTYARDHOUSE

Ancient Romans knew a thing or two about architecture and living well. At the heart of wealthy homes was the atrium, an open area surrounded by closed rooms, which drew in natural light and ventilated the interior. It created a feeling of space and light, of social interaction and community.

The concept was central to domestic architecture both figuratively and literally. It was the void that made sense of the rest of the home. The design of a dwelling was anchored in the idea of the open space that would be the centre of family life, and it was the atrium that determined the shape and layout of the rest of the building. The central space came first. The other areas of the home were then designed and built around it.

A double-height railing directly above the front door emphasises the verticality of the house, complemented by Sparkle White marble and Black Slate cladding supplied by Decorama. The external and internal doors are by FourWalls.

We are losing our contact with nature, our sense of calmness to be at one with our environment.

Theidea cascaded down the centuries, spilling out into other architectural styles and trickling into vernacular homes. The drawback of the Roman-style atrium was that it was open to the elements, but roofing it over would defeat its principal purpose of providing natural lighting and ventilation. With the arrival of the industrial revolution and the advances that brought in iron and glass manufacturing, it became possible to create an atrium protected from the elements by overhead glazing that is supported by a metal frame.

Wood cladding runs horizontally on the ceiling above the internal bridge, juxtaposed with the metal frame of the retractable roof. The cladding was supplied by Brands International, who also supplied the wooden decking and laminate flooring elsewhere in the house.

When the weather and whim coincide, the glass roof is opened by remote control, bringing the outdoors in.

Inan unlikely twist, those architectural concepts, separated by millennia, have shaped the design of a contemporary family home that nestles between low-lying apartment blocks in the north of Malta. Inspired by a desire to bridge the experiential gap between nature and urban living, the architects designed their clients’ house around an atrium with a retractable glass paneled roof.

“As a culture, we are losing our contact with nature, our sense of calmness to be at one with our environment,” says Daniel Scerri, lead architect on the project. “We have grown used to living in an urban environment, without thinking much about what we are losing deep within ourselves. Our mental wellbeing, our inner peace have been taken over by a hectic urban lifestyle, which drains us more than we know. And then we escape to other countries for holidays and relaxation.”

 The kitchen and dining area just off the courtyard are open plan, making the space feel comfortably expansive. Fabulous Home supplied the wallpaper for the courtyard wall. The custom-made wooden shelf is by Muliett Woodworks Ltd, who also supplied other custom works throughout the home.

In the main bedroom, neutral tones, natural materials and clean lines create a calming effect. A padded headboard gives the bed a luxurious feel, and contrasts with the minimalist lines of the rest of the furniture. The bespoke furniture is by Carmelo Delia. A walk-in wardrobe by Carmelo Delia and an ensuite bathroom by Vellmann Tiles & Bathrooms are hidden behind sliding mirrored doors. Engineered flooring in oak by Brands International is laid parallel to the external wall on the far side, visually widening the room.

To counter this trend, the key concept in this project was to bring nature, sunlight energy and a feeling of wellbeing deep into the heart of the home, creating “a sense of calmness that our ancestors not so long ago learnt to achieve in their vernacular architecture”, as Daniel Scerri describes it. The terraced house was to be newly built, which offered broad scope for its design. The architects proposed including a large open space at the centre, rather than at the back of the plot, and this idea found favour with their clients.

The contemporary courtyard is now the heart of the home’s design. It sits at the centre of the plot, and is stepped towards the South so that sunshine flows all the way down into the living spaces for much of the day. Thanks to the retractable roof-level glass ceiling, the indoor and outdoor are connected deep within the home.

Heat gain is mitigated naturally by an induced air current

A home cinema was built into the sub-basement. Wood cladding on internal and external walls adds a warm touch and visual texture. The cladding was supplied by Brands International.

Theregulations on building height in the area allowed verticality in the design that could be used to fulfill the site’s potential, introducing an external volume within the building that could be open to the sky when desired – which is most of the year –and closed off when necessary, which is less often than one would expect. When the weather and whim coincide, the glass roof is opened by remote control, bringing the outdoors in. Heat gain is mitigated naturally by an induced air current that draws cool air from the basement into the yard through a ventilation panel on the ground floor.

The living room is open to the internal courtyard and to the open area at the back of the house but it feels snug thanks to the inviting sofa by Carmelo Delia that wraps round three sides of the room and the soft-toned wallpaper from Fabulous Home, who also supplied the wallpapers used throughout the house. Wood flooring and wall cladding by Brands International create a warm feeling in the space and links it.

The bar counter in the kitchen is a gathering point for the home owners and their guests.

As one enters the home and walks up the wide entrance staircase leading towards the triple-height space, the glass-covered courtyard with its bridges, open staircases, and trees, creates a sense of dynamism and the feeling of being outdoors while simultaneously cocooned within one’s own home.

All the floors are open to the internal volume, giving the house a spacious outdoor feel, and all of the living areas of the home overlook the courtyard, promoting interaction between the various spaces and family members. The contemporary style of the house is a far cry from ancient Rome, but some things haven’t changed. The atrium really is the heart of this home.

The wood grain on the cupboard doors, the kitchen island bar counter, and the flooring bring in warmth and visual texture. The custom-built kitchen is by Carmelo Delia. Brands International supplied the wood flooring.

Natural light floods into the entrance hall through the large glazed door that leads onto the central courtyard. CASCONEHome supplied the pivot-door by Oikos Architetture D’ingresso. Wood cladding by Carmelo Delia Joinery runs the full height of the entrance hall, bringing a sense of nature to the interior. In cooler months, the house is warmed by underfloor heating by Klimaflo.

THE MILL HOUSE

A cluster of vernacular listed buildings transformed into a contemporary home

Architecture: Valentino Architects • Structural design: Perit Ivan Muscat

Photography: Ramon Portelli • Model: Martina Farrugia

Somehalf a millennium ago, a roughly-hewn stone was laid on a patch of land in the centre of Malta. The intention then was to construct a functional building in what was largely an agricultural area. The material was limestone, cut by hand and prised out of the ground, and then patiently hacked using rudimentary tools into the right size and shape for its purpose. It was the first step in building what would eventually become a contemporary family home in Attard, one of the group of neighbouring communities informally known as “the three villages”.

There’s a metaphor in there somewhere for the way that a 21st century home has evolved out of a cluster of 16th century buildings on the protected heritage list. It takes vision, artistry, skill, and patience to carve a structure that is functionally useful and aesthetically pleasing out of basic, though promising, raw material.

The 16th and 21st century building works are visually identifiable but blend together beautifully. The arched door that leads in from the street echoes the arched ceiling in the entrance hall. CASCONEHome supplied the white front door by Delfino Infissi srl. Carmelo Delia Joinery supplied the wooden apertures, as well as the wooden bench in the hallway and other wood works.

Theoriginal vernacular buildings had an entirely different purpose to the one they serve today. They were utilitarian, designed principally to be useful rather than attractive, and their structure was limited by the building techniques and materials available at the time.

At a glance, rural architecture seems rough and unsophisticated, but it is eminently practical. There are no frills, everything was done for a specific reason, and both material and structure were made to work with nature rather than defy it. Hence the thick, double layered walls that provided insulation, broad arches that could support high ceilings to accommodate large machinery, and small and unglazed apertures that allowed natural ventilation without water ingress from heavy rain.

Thebuildings’ original structure fitted their functionality and locale like the proverbial glove. To develop them for a different use in a changed locale in another century, Valentino Architects transformed the three volumes into a single two-storey building that surrounds a central courtyard. Three bedrooms were constructed on top of the existing buildings and a contemporary walkway that overlooks the courtyard now links the once separate volumes.

The new structure is a sharp contrast to the heritage buildings – light, bright, smooth and translucent in contrast to the heavy and rough-cut stone of the original structures. The architectural concept centres on the space between the buildings. Now a sun-soaked courtyard meant for leisure rather than work, it is equipped with a plunge pool and seating area decorated with banana and palm trees in large terracotta pots. “The courtyard is the connecting agent between the disparate spaces,” say Valentino Architects. “The glazed walkway on the upper level curates the connection, functioning as a binding passage between the three volumes.”

In the courtyard, the smooth micro-cement flooring and pool perimeter acts as a foil for the original building walls.

Onthe ground level, the front door leads from the street into an entrance hall framed by stone arches. This opens out into the courtyard which is overlooked by the dining area at the north end and the living room and kitchen area to the east. Throughout the ground floor, painted panels cover the lower section of the walls, providing a clean surface for fittings without cutting into the original walls, while above the panels the rough stonework has been left exposed. White paint bridges the walls’ material contrast, foregrounding their texture and bouncing natural light throughout the interior.

The appearance of the glazed walkway shifts over the course of the day - solidly reflective during daytime and transparent at night, when it lights up the couryard below. CASCONEHome supplied the structure by SCK Group - GC Infissi.

Carmelo Delia Joinery specialises in all types of custom-made furniture, including traditional Maltese balconies, doors, windows and louvers, etc. We can use a range of different materials for your furniture pieces with customised pieces to suit your space.

Address: St Mark Street, Valletta, Malta.

Telephone: 2122 0949 Mobile: 9985 7016

Email: carmelodelia.joinery@gmail.com

Carmelo Delia Joinery

Tall cabinets are set between the wall arches, punctuating the edges of the ground floor and playing on grades of visibility. The smooth-fronted wooden cabinets “resemble minimalist boulders that at times double as doorways to tangential rooms,” say Valentino Architects. Opposite the front door, a concrete staircase leads to the newly built upper level where the bedrooms are finished in exposed concrete, plaster, and wood, with white marble in the bathrooms.

The glazed walkway connecting the private bedrooms runs along two perimeter walls above the courtyard plunge pool. It was designed for its appearance to shift with the changing light over the course of the day, transforming from solidly reflective during the daytime to transparent, as darkness falls, when it lights up the courtyard below. "In the morning, it reflects the courtyard's yellow stone and the sights of the surrounding village,” say Valentino Architects, yet it is invisible from the street, affording privacy to the residents as the internally lit walkway becomes translucent and they retire to their bedrooms for the night.

A neutral and natural pallette creates a sense of calm, particularly in the private space on the upper level. In the bathroom, a custom-built marble unit appears to float above the marble floor, both supplied by Il-Palazz Marble Works. Floor-to-ceiling cabinetry, including a walk-in wardrobe, and wood flooring by Carmelo Delia Joinery provide warmth and visual texture

 Mario by Furninova is a bold bed frame with wings enveloping the bed on both sides of the headboard. The soft, quilted upholstery style is available in our varied range of fabrics. Let the upholstery you choose make it classical, contemporary or even edgier to suit your interior style. Exclusively from Satariano, 122 Msida Valley Road Birkirkara.

 Meridiana Wine Estate’s vineyards in Ta’ Qali are spread over 19 hectares. Annual production amounts to 140,000 bottles of D.O.K. wines, most of which are sold in Malta. Meridiana’s wine selection includes Isis Chardonnay, Astarte Vermentino, Melqart Cabernet/Merlot, Bel Syrah, Nexus Merlot, Celsius Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, and Baltis Moscato Passito. The more casual Fenici range is made of a White, a Rose and a Red, three lovely easy-to-drink wines which, apart from Meridiana’s renowned quality, also offer great value for money. For more information  www.meridiana.com.mt Trade Enquiries: www.srausi.com

The next issue will be out in May 2023 with The Malta Independent on Sunday.

 From the smallest terrace to the largest sun deck, with the Laguna relax chairs you can create a cosy corner where you can relax and recharge your body and mind. Available in white or grey aluminium frame with grey fabric. Available exclusively from Satariano 122, Msida Valley Road Birkirkara. Tel 2149 2149.

 Empty your mind and enjoy a new way of outdoor living. The LITUS collection by 10Deka sets new standards with its elegant design. Woven cords and aluminum blend together to provide a unique, gentle, and smooth line for ultimate relaxation. Litus is customisable in 41 fabrics, 16 powdered aluminium frame colours, and 5 cord colour options. 10Deka is certified for residential as well as commercial use, and is available exclusively from Brands International Ltd, Triq tal-Balal, San Gwann.

 The coordinates lighting collection by FLOS is composed of a horizontal and vertical strip light that form illuminated grid-like structures of varying complexities. Designed by Michael Anastassiades, the collection features wall, floor, suspended, and ceiling models available in a champagne and argent finish. Exact, elegant, and easily adaptable, the collection offers a flexible yet formally rigorous solution providing maximum impact with a minimal touch. Exclusively available at Elektra Ltd., Mill Street, Qormi. www.elektra.com.mt

For advertising, contact Sean Ellul on +356 7921 0705 sellul@independent.com.mt