ISSUE 122 DISTRIBUTED WITH THE MALTA INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY
SEPTEMBER 2019 ISSUE 122
Feed your imagination Food · Wine · Art · Design · Urban Living · Rural Retreat
SEPTEMBER 2019
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T&F EDITORIAL
SEPTEMBER 2019
Welcome S
eptember’s when autumn begins and our thoughts start to turn inwards to our homes and the anticipated change of routine heralded by the first rains. Officially, though, it’s still summer and while the days are noticeably shorter, the weather’s no kinder for being a few degrees lower. It’s not yet time for hearty food and slow-cooked roasts. The warm, humid September atmosphere calls for something lighter. Fortunately, there lots to choose from. Chilled soups make the most of the late harvest, when fresh produce is plentiful and still at its best. Wild caught fish can be turned into a meal in minutes, and if your choice is sustainable, you’ll help ensure food supplies for the future. Dorado (lampuki) are just coming into season, but comber (serran) and bogue (vopi) are available almost all year round, and all three are recommended as sustainably fished. For entertaining at home, whether à deux or more, try some of the collection of recipes ranging from bite-sized maritozzi and supplì to the more elaborate prawn and lobster Wellington, or lay on a banquet of classic dishes matched with crisp white tablecloths and patinated silverware. For something sweet, try one or more chilled desserts. In our design section, we take a look at two award-winning design projects, a restored townhouse in Sliema, and a rural retreat in Qala, Gozo. We hope you enjoy this issue of Taste&Flair. It’s always good to have something beautiful to look at so, we’re already working on the next issue. We’ll be back on 6th October.
Feed your imagination
Mandy Mallia’s buffalo mozzarella with basil and prickly pear juice soup. See feature starting on page 14. Photo by Megan Mallia.
ISSUE 122 distributed with the malta independent on sunday
Food · Wine · Art · Design · Urban Living · Rural Retreat
Publisher The Daphne Caruana Galizia Foundation c/o 56 Melita Street, Valletta VLT1122, Malta Editorial Board Paul Caruana Galizia Andrew Caruana Galizia Matthew Caruana Galizia Executive Editor Corinne Vella Editorial Assistants Megan Mallia • Amy Mallia Art Director Ramon Micallef +356 9949 1418 ram@box-design.net Advertising Manager & Editorial Contributor Sean Ellul +356 7921 0705 or 21 345 888 ext 123 sellul@independent.com.mt Advertising Assistant Christine Mifsud +356 21 345 888 ext 138 cmifsud@independent.com.mt Production Manager André Camilleri Production Assistant Conrad Bondin Prepress & Printing Print It
All communication about Taste&Flair magazine should be directed to Corinne Vella at corinne.vella@gmail.com No part of the publication may be reproduced without the prior agreement of the publisher. Distributed with The Malta Independent on Sunday*. The Malta Independent on Sunday is published by Standard Publications Ltd - Tel +356 21 345 888 *The surcharge on The Malta Independent on Sunday, or any charge for this magazine is retained by Standard Publications Ltd.
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ISSUE 122 SEPTEMBER 2019
T&F CONTENTS
CONTENTS FOOD & DRINK
14 32 47 51 55 69
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ISSUE 122 SEPTEMBER 2019
September coolers Mandy Mallia’s chilled soups
Entertaining Michael Diacono’s and Ryan Vella’s recipes for success.
Summer Reds Andrew Azzopardi on chilled red wines
In Season A fresh look at sustainable fish
Feast Daniel Debattista serves up classic recipes
Sweet moments Claire Borg’s delicious desserts
GARDENS, ART, DESIGN & INTERIORS
12 82 88 102 112 128
Aeonium Planted “architecture”
Premju Emanuele Galizia 2019 winner Threeplusone
Premju Emanuele Galizia 2019 winner Limber Lattice
Urban restoration A Sliema townhouse gets a new look
Country life A rural dwelling transformed into a weekend retreat
Trees The exhibition
AVAILABLE AT
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MOB: 9989 6286 FACEBOOK GIO. BATTA DELIA 1901
T&F QUICK BAKES
Chocolate Vegan Brownie Quick and very easy to prepare, this chocolatey vegan brownie can be served on its own or crumbled and topped with freshly chopped firm fruit, like strawberries. INGREDIENTS
100g flour • 100g cocoa powder • 200g chocolate 200g caster sugar • 15g baking powder ½ teaspoon salt • 100ml extra virgin olive oil 150ml walnut drink • 50g chopped walnuts
1. Sieve the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder and salt, and add the sugar, olive oil and walnut drink. Beat until you get a smooth mixture. 2. Line a baking tray with baking paper and pour
the mixture onto it. Sprinkle with the chopped walnuts and bake at 180ºC for 30 minutes. 3. Leave the brownie to cool before
removing it from the tray.
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Baking and Serving Notes Baking paper is ideal for cakes and pastries, since it stops the mixture sticking without the need for adding flour or fat. For a richer flavour, stir in some raw banana chunks to the mixture before baking. It is easier to remove the brownie from the tray once it cools, but if it hasn’t set completely or crumbles easily, you can serve it in pieces in a dessert glass with some strawberries on top.
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T&F PLANTS
AEONIUM This succulent, a common feature of many grandmothers’ yards and of church bazaars, where it is sold rooted in tomato tins, with pieces of it fed down the generations to propagate new plants in the homes of descendants, is often overlooked in Malta precisely because it is considered so ordinary. But in European homes and gardens, it is considered a very special plant with “architectural” properties of shape and form. The black variety is a whole lot more interesting than the green in this respect.
I
t is a native of the Atlantic coast of Morocco, and flourishes with absolutely no care at all, though it will need water in the hot months. It does well in both sun and shade, and when planted in open ground, it spreads, grows tall and in December grows large, black and shiny, producing a spectacular display of tall, conical bright yellow flowers. This black variety is the Aeonium Schwarzkopf, and it makes a thoroughly weather-resistant focal point for a yard, garden or veranda. It looks brilliant on an open balcony, too. In high summer, particularly when exposed to the hot sun for long periods, the rosettes shrink and are much reduced, even if they are watered regularly. It is not lack of water which causes this, but too much sun. When the weather cools, they regain their former glory. Propagation could not be simpler: just break off a piece and push it into a flower-pot of ordinary earth, then water each time it dries out, until it roots.
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T&F LIGHT MEALS
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LIGHT MEALS T&F
September Coolers Enjoy the best of a late harvest with these colourful, chilled soups. Made up in batches and cooled overnight, they’ll be fresh and ready to serve the next day with little more than a garnish. Food: Mandy Mallia Photography: Megan Mallia These soups are perfect for September, when the weather is still hot and when everybody is bored of the usual run-of-the-mill “light yet nutritious” summer meals. Most of the ingredients are still at their best and abundantly available at vegetable markets, which is just another reason which will tempt you to try them. The beetroot one is the tastiest by far, although most members of my family would think otherwise.
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T&F LIGHT MEALS
Vacuum-packed, pre-cooked beetroots work just as well if you are unable to source fresh ones. If you’re using pre-cooked beets, start from step 4.
SERVES
PREPARATION
20
4
MINUTES, NOT INCLUDING CHILLING TIME
AS A STARTER
YOU WILL NEED
4 medium-sized beetroots ½ medium-sized onion, peeled and finely diced 1 large garlic clove, peeled and chopped 1 medium-sized cucumber, peeled, deseeded and diced a frond or 2 of fresh dill, chopped 2 tablespoons of brown vinegar 500ml vegetable stock salt and pepper, to taste TO GARNISH
Greek yogurt finely chopped red onion finely chopped cucumber (unpeeled) dill tops
1. If using fresh beetroots, wash them
well, place them in a medium-sized pot, cover with water and bring to a boil. 2. Once the water has reached boiling point,
lower the heat and simmer the beetroots for around 45 minutes to an hour, until fork-tender all the way through. 3. Chill the beetroots and, once
they are cold, peel them. 4. Put all 4 beetroots into a blender
with the vegetable stock. 5. Add the garlic, salt, pepper, vinegar, half
of the chopped onion, 2/3 of the chopped cucumber and roughly 2/3 of the chopped dill. 6. Blend until very smooth,
adding water if necessary. 7. Adjust seasoning to taste. 8. Chill (preferably overnight)
until ready to serve. 9. Ladle the soup into serving plates. Garnish
the centre of the surface with finely chopped cucumber, onions and dill. Dollop Greek yogurt in a circle around the garnish. Run the tip of a skewer in a circle through the sour cream, and serve immediately.
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Beetroot, Cucumber & Dill
LIGHT MEALS T&F
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T&F LIGHT MEALS
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LIGHT MEALS T&F
This is similar to gazpacho, but thicker and creamier because it contains more bread. Traditionally, Salmorejo’s garnished with serrano ham and hard-boiled eggs. I’ve topped this with toasted flaked almonds instead.
Salmorejo (Spanish tomato and bread soup)
PREPARATION
SERVES
15
4
MINUTES, NOT INCLUDING CHILLING TIME
AS AN APPETISER
YOU WILL NEED
800g sun-ripened tomatoes, halved 4 x 2cm-thick slices of rustic white bread, with crusts removed 1 small clove of garlic, peeled and finely grated 1 tablespoon brown vinegar 4 tablespoons of olive oil salt, to taste TO GARNISH
Toasted flaked almonds
1. Using a sharp knife, mark a cross
in each tomato skin and blanch the tomatoes in boiling water for a minute or two. Remove the tomatoes from the hot water and peel away the skins. 2. Roughly chop the tomatoes and put them into a blender. Shred the bread and add it to the tomatoes. Let the mixture stand for a few minutes for the bread to soak up some of the tomato liquid. 3. Add the vinegar and the grated garlic.
Blend the mixture well until smooth, adding the olive oil a little at a time. 4. Strain the blended mixture through a fine sieve, season it to taste, and let it chill overnight. 5. To serve, ladle into bowls, and garnish with a few flaked almonds or freshly-chopped herbs.
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T&F LIGHT MEALS
Tangy Avocado & Cucumber with Coconut Milk PREPARATION
30 MINUTES, NOT INCLUDING CHILLING TIME SERVES
4 AS A STARTER
YOU WILL NEED
2 medium-sized cucumbers (around 700g) 2 large, ripe avocadoes, peeled and roughly chopped 2 teaspoons sugar 2 teaspoons Thai green curry paste (found in the Asian section of most supermarkets) 1 chilli, deseeded and finely chopped grated zest of half a lime juice of 2 limes 1 can of coconut milk, preferably unsweetened ¾l water • Salt TO GARNISH
strips of lime zest fresh coriander, finely chopped
1. Peel the cucumbers,
remove the seeds, roughly chop the flesh and then blend in a processor until smooth. 2. Now, add the Thai curry
paste, sugar, lime zest, chilli and avocadoes and blend until smooth. 3. Next, add the water, lime
juice and coconut milk, and blend again. Season to taste and let the soup chill until it’s ready to serve. 4. Pour the chilled soup
into glasses, garnish with freshly-cut strips of lime zest and chopped coriander, and serve immediately.
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PREPARED WITH PASSION, SERVED WITH PRIDE Our scrumptious Sunday Lunch buffet will be back on the 29th September. Treat yourself to a vast selection of mouth-watering International dishes and tantalizing home-made desserts. Kontiki Restaurant, at the Radisson Blu Resort, St. Julian’s. For bookings kindly call 2137 4894 or e-mail fb.stjulians@rdbmalta.com Free parking included.
T&F LIGHT MEALS
PREPARATION
SERVES
80
4
MINUTES, EXCLUDING COOLING AND CHILLING TIME
AS AN APPETISER
YOU WILL NEED
10 yellow peppers 1 large white or yellow onion, roughly chopped 1 large red chilli, chopped and deseeded 1/3 cup olive oil 1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, chopped a pinch of sugar salt and freshly-ground pepper, to taste 500ml chicken or vegetable stock 350ml water TO GARNISH
snipped chives or finely sliced green chilli peppers
1. Preheat the oven to 200°C (gas mark 6) 2. Wash the peppers, pat them dry, and
place them in a single layer on a baking tray lined with greaseproof paper. 3. Place the baking tray in the centre of the
oven and roast the peppers until brown and wrinkly all over, turning them every 15 minutes. This will take 45-60 minutes. 4. Remove the peppers from the oven and cover them
with a dishcloth until cool. Then slip the skins off, deseed the peppers and chop them into quarters. 5. Heat the olive oil in a soup pot over a medium
flame. Put in the onion, red chilli pepper and rosemary and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion starts to brown (approximately 10 minutes). 6. Add the roast peppers and any juices to the onion mixture together with the stock, sugar, salt and pepper, plus 350ml of water 7. Bring the mixture to simmering point on a medium-high heat. Cover the pot, lower the heat, and simmer for 5 minutes. Then, remove the pot from cooker, and allow it to cool for a few minutes. 8. Blend the soup in batches. Strain the purĂŠe
through a fine metal sieve, using the back of a spoon to push the mixture through. 9. Chill the strained soup for a few
hours, preferably overnight. 10. Ladle soup the soup into plates, garnish with freshly snipped chives and season with a grinding of black pepper. As an alternative garnish, use finely sliced green chilli peppers. Serve chilled.
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Roast Yellow Pepper with Rosemary
LIGHT MEALS T&F
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T&F LIGHT MEALS
Marrow with Crème Fraîche and Lemon Olive oil PREPARATION
30 MINUTES, NOT INCLUDING CHILLING TIME SERVES
4 AS AN APPETISER
YOU WILL NEED
750g marrows, cut lengthwise and sliced into 1cm slices 2 medium onions, roughly chopped 750ml vegetable stock 2 tablespoons olive oil ½ tablespoon lemoninfused olive oil 3 tablespoons crème fraiche (sour cream) salt and pepper, to taste TO GARNISH
lemon olive oil watercress
1. Heat the oil in a saucepan.
Add the onions, and sautée over a moderate heat until soft (about 5 minutes). 2. Add the sliced marrows
and cook, stirring, for 2- 3 minutes, until sizzling. 3. Add the vegetable stock,
bring to a boil, then turn down the heat and let the pot simmer until the vegetables are tender (about 10 minutes) 4. Blend the soup until smooth
and allow it to cool. Then, season it with salt and pepper, stir in the lemon-infused olive oil, and whisk in the crème fraiche. Chill the soup for several hours, preferably overnight. 5. Serve in small bowls topped
with a fine drizzle of lemon olive oil and a sprig of watercress.
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Phoenix Enjoy a taste of the Mediterranean
The Phoenix Restaurant is internationally known for its elegant charm and high standards. Our carefully crafted menu uses only the finest ingredients thus putting the joy of food at the centre of your dining experience. Bask in the
summer sun out on the Terrace with its sweeping garden views all the way to Marsamxett Harbour a showstopping backdrop reminiscent to the most elegant dinner scenes. Open for lunch and dinner, The Phoenix Restaurant eagerly awaits your visit.
Make your dining reservation now. The Mall, Floriana – FRN1478, Malta Tel: (+356) 21 225 241 dine@phoeniciamalta.com www.phoeniciamalta.com
T&F LIGHT MEALS
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LIGHT MEALS T&F
This sounds unusual but tastes delicious. If prickly pear juice is not to your taste, substitute it with fresh, homemade tomato juice. PREPARATION
SERVES
30
4
MINUTES
Buffalo Mozzarella with Basil and Prickly Pear juice
YOU WILL NEED
4 balls of buffalo mozzarella, together with their liquid 3 pink prickly pears, peeled and roughly chopped a small handful of basil leaves, finely chopped 200ml extra-virgin olive oil, a pinch of sugar salt, to taste freshly-ground black pepper TO GARNISH
shredded basil leaves olive oil
1. PurĂŠe the chopped prickly pears in a
blender, adding a pinch salt and a pinch of sugar. Push the mixture through a fine metal sieve with the back of a spoon. Whisk in 4 tablespoons of extravirgin olive oil. Season with pepper. 2. Pour the buffalo mozzarella liquid
into a clean blender. Chop the mozzarella into chunks and add them to the blender, then add the chopped basil. Blend, gradually increasing the speed as the mixture liquefies. 3. Add the remaining olive oil, and
blend again until the mixture is creamy and smooth. Season the soup with freshly-ground pepper and set it in the fridge to chill for a couple of hours. 4. Ladle the soup into small deep bowls.
Using a teaspoon, drizzle the prickly pear mixture over the surface and then use the sharp tip of a skewer to stir it lightly. Add a drizzle of extravirgin olive oil and freshly-shredded basil and serve immediately.
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T&F LIGHT MEALS
Fennel with Grapefruit YOU WILL NEED
400g fennel bulb (1 very large one or 4 small ones), cleaned and finely sliced 750ml water 2 tablespoons lemon-infused olive oil salt, to taste juice of 2 grapefruits a pinch of sugar TO GARNISH
Whole watercress sprigs
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1. Heat the lemon-
2. Add the water
4. Stir in the
infused olive oil in a medium-sized saucepan. Add the sliced fennel to the pan together with a pinch of salt. Cover the pan and set it over a moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until the fennel softens (around 10 minutes).
and bring it to a boil. Lower the heat, and let the soup simmer for around 20 minutes, until the fennel is very tender.
grapefruit juice, add a pinch of sugar, and season with salt. Stir again and then chill the soup overnight.
3. Blend the
cooked soup until smooth, then allow it to cool down.
5. Ladle the soup
into soup plates and garnish with watercress sprigs. Serve immediately.
PREPARATION
75 MINUTES, NOT INCLUDING CHILLING TIME SERVES
4 AS A STARTER
HEARTY MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE PREPARED WITH FLAIR WEEKLY SPECIALS INSPIRED BY THE FRESHEST LOCAL PRODUCE
AT THE RADISSON BLU RESORT, ST. JULIAN’S
T&F LIGHT MEALS
Roast Tomato with Red Pepper YOU WILL NEED
800g tomatoes, roughly chopped 1 red capsicum, deseeded and roughly chopped 1l vegetable stock 2 cloves garlic, roughly chopped 3 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra to garnish salt and freshly-ground black pepper, to taste TO GARNISH
Sprigs of Moroccan mint yogurt
1. Preheat the
3. Place the roast
5. Season to taste.
oven to 220°C (gas mark 7). Brush a roasting tin with olive oil. Add the tomatoes and red pepper, drizzle with more olive oil and season with salt and freshly-ground black pepper.
tomatoes and pepper into a pot with the vegetable stock. Bring it to the boil and let it cook for around 2 minutes.
Allow the mixture to cool completely and then let it chill overnight.
2. Put the tin in
the oven and let the vegetables roast for 4560 minutes. The tomatoes should be soft and starting to blacken slightly.
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4. Remove the pan
from the heat and allow the mixture to cool slightly. Next, blend the soup until smooth. Doing this in batches makes it easier.
6. Ladle the soup
into small deep bowls. Using a teaspoon, add dollops of yogurt in a circle and use the sharp end of a skewer to lightly swirl the yogurt into the soup. 7. Garnish with
a fresh sprig of Moroccan mint and serve immediately.
PREPARATION
60 MINUTES, NOT INCLUDING CHILLING TIME SERVES
6
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T&F ENTERTAINING
FOOD Y
SHARE Entertaining guests at home and wondering what to cook? Try this tasty collection of recipes by Michael Diacono, chef patron at Rubino, Giuseppi’s and Mezzodì, and Ryan Vella, head chef at Mezzodì Photography: Brian Grech Planning a dinner party for friends always begins with the question of what to cook. Try these on a day when you’re not under pressure and they’ll turn out beautifully when you’re entertaining at home. Some are quick and easy to prepare, and are perfect for casual suppers or a light lunch. Others need a little more time, but are worth the effort for a special occasion.
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ENTERTAINING T&F
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T&F ENTERTAINING
Supplì Supplì are a traditional Roman street food found all over the city. The traditional ones are filled with a meat and tomato ragù rolled around mozzarella di buffala and fried in breadcrumbs. Although many new modern, delicious and creative versions of the supplì are popping up, we chose to prepare the traditional ones which are sometimes called “Supplì all’telefono”. Romans say that, when the supplì are split and pulled apart, the thin cord of mozzarella resembles a telephone line.
PREPARATION TIME
MAKES AROUND
2
20
HOURS, NOT INCLUDING OVERNIGHT COOLING TIME
PIECES
WINE SUGGESTION
Barbera D’Alba
YOU WILL NEED
1 large onion, diced • 2 garlic cloves, minced 2 tablespoons tomato paste • 200g beef mince 200g veal mince • 4 sprigs of thyme, leaves picked 200ml red wine • 600g polpa • 400g risotto rice 400ml beef stock • 100g butter • 200g Parmesan, grated 300g buffalo mozzarella • 3 eggs • 100g flour 400g Panko breadcrumbs • vegetable oil for frying
1. To begin, sauté the onions
5. Cut the mozzarella into
and garlic in a glug of olive oil until soft. Add the tomato paste and cook well, followed by the minced meat and thyme leaves. Cook until the mince is nicely browned.
20 even strips and, using a knife, cut the set rice into 20 even portions. (The number of portions depends on the size of the supplì).
2. Add the red wine and
cook to reduce the liquid by half. Next, add the passata and leave the pan to simmer for 20 minutes. 3. Add the risotto rice and
cook it until it has absorbed most of the passata. After this time, add a couple of splashes of beef stock and again wait for the rice to absorb the liquid. Repeat the process, adding a small amount at a time, until the rice is almost ready but a little undercooked. Remove the pan from the heat. 4. Stir in the butter and grated
Parmesan, then spread the rice over a flat tray to allow it to cool quickly. Chill it in the fridge overnight or until completely cold and set.
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6. Take one of the portions
of rice, lay it flat in your hand, and place a piece of mozzarella in the centre. Roll the rice around the mozzarella until you have a nice, neat cylinder. Place on a clean plate and repeat to form the remaining supplì. 7. Preheat a deep-fryer or
deep pan of oil to 180°C. 8. Prepare a bowl of whisked
egg, a plate of flour and a tray of breadcrumbs. One-by-one, roll the supplì in the flour, then the egg, and finally coat in the breadcrumbs. 9. Deep-fry the supplì in
batches until golden, then drain on kitchen paper. Serve hot to ensure a nicely stringy cheesy centre.
ENTERTAINING T&F
Romans say that, when the supplĂŹ are split and pulled apart, the thin cord of mozzarella resembles a telephone line. This is a showstopper and a fun dish to serve accompanied by some very well-chilled wine, when entertaining friends at home. ISSUE 122 SEPTEMBER 2019
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T&F ENTERTAINING
Pan-seared Quail and Scallops This is super easy to prepare and cook yet gives the impression of being quite a “cheffy� dish. YOU WILL NEED PREPARATION & COOKING TIME
SERVES
45
4
MINUTES
PERSONS
WINE SUGGESTION
Sparkling wine produced in the traditional method such as Brut Champagne, Cava or Cap Classique
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 4 boneless quail, halved or quartered (personal preference) salt and pepper 8 fresh scallops removed from the shell 200ml dry white vermouth 70g mange tout 75g samphire, rinsed a handful of shelled walnuts, roughly chopped
1. Heat the oil and butter
together in a large frying pan. Add the quail and season. Fry on both sides till golden (about 8 minutes), then add the scallops. 2. Cook for a minute on each side
then douse with the vermouth and reduce on high heat.This should take about 4 minutes. 3. Add the trimmed mange tout. Toss
gently before adding the samphire and stir to coat with the pan juices. 4. Serve on warm plates with
the mange tout as a base, then build up finishing off with a sprinkling of chopped walnuts.
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ENTERTAINING T&F
Veal rib “Mare e Monte� Perfect for a romantic night-in, dinner for 2 kind of evening. This can be prepared early and cooked at the last minute.
PREPARATION & COOKING TIME
SERVES
45
2
MINUTES
PERSONS
YOU WILL NEED
2 veal rib on the bone 4 slices parma ham 4 sage leaves juice of 1 lemon 200ml chicken stock 1 teaspoon capers 2 teaspoons butter 1 handful of samphire 2 king prawns a splash of white wine
WINE SUGGESTION
New Zealand or Burgundy Pinot Noir
1. Season the veal rib with
3. Add the white wine and
5. At the very last moment,
salt and pepper. Put a sage leaf on each side of the meat, and roll the slices of Parma ham around the meat.
let it reduce. Once reduced add the stock and the butter. Cook until the veal reaches a medium-rare to medium cooking temperature.
when the veal rib is almost ready, add the capers, chopped parsley and samphire. Season with salt and lemon juice to taste and serve with the prawns and pan juices.
2. Dust the veal with flour
and fry it in a hot pan with a drizzle of olive oil for around 2-3 minutes on each side, or until a nice golden crust forms.
4. In another hot pan or
dish grill the prawns.
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T&F ENTERTAINING
Maritozzi Maritozzi are also a traditional Roman snack. The sweet, soft buns, traditionally glazed with a sugar syrup and filled with sweetened whipped cream, are usually eaten for breakfast. In this recipe we treated this bread as one would an Asian steamed bun. This is certainly a showstopper and a fun dish to serve accompanied by some very well-chilled wine, when entertaining friends at home.
PREPARATION TIME
SERVES
2
8
HOURS APPROXIMATELY, INCLUDING PROVING TIMES
PERSONS
YOU WILL NEED
7g of dry yeast 60ml water 200g flour 1 egg + 1 egg yolk (for brushing) 50g sugar 50g butter, softened pinch of salt 2 chicken thighs 2 eggs 150g flour 200g panko breadcrumbs 1 handful picked coriander leaves or coriander cress 1 chilli, sliced 2 spring onions, sliced
WINE SUGGESTION
Dry Italian Rosé or Côtes de Provence Rosé
Using the dough hook, put the mixer on medium speed and knead the dough until you have a very smooth, soft elastic ball. This will take about 8-10 minutes. You want a manageable but soft dough that’s not too sticky or too dry 3. Place the dough ball in
an oiled bowl and cover it with a tea towel. Let it rise and rest in a warm place for about 1 hour or until it doubles in size. 4. Now divide the dough
FOR THE AIOLI
3 egg yolks 2 tablespoons vinegar 2 tablespoons lemon juice 1 tablespoon sugar 2 cloves garlic 1l vegetable oil of choice pinch salt
1. In a wide bowl, dissolve
the yeast in the water and set it aside 10 minutes. Add 50g of the flour and combine to create a smooth paste. This is the yeast starter. Cover the bowl and let it rest 15 to 20 minutes in a warm spot where it should create plenty of bubbles. 2. When the yeast has risen,
place the remaining 150g of flour into the bowl of an electric mixer. Pour in the yeast starter, eggs, butter, sugar, and a pinch of salt.
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into 50g balls (or any size you prefer). Roll them into small oval shapes and place them, one by one, onto a baking sheet layered with baking paper, leaving plenty of room between each bun. Cover the tray and let the dough balls rise for 30 minutes in a warm spot. 5. Preheat the oven to
180ºC. When ready to bake, brush the buns with egg yolk and cook for 10-15 minutes or until puffed up and just golden on the top and bottom. They should remain soft and fluffy inside. You may opt to put a small dish filled with water in the bottom of the oven to create some steam, which helps to achieve a nicer crust on the bun.
6. For the aioli, put the egg
yolks, sugar, garlic, vinegar and lemon juice in a tall container. Using a hand blender, blend everything together. Continue to blend while pouring in the oil in a steady stream. Season with salt and more lemon juice or vinegar, if necessary. 7. Prepare 3 bowls, one
each for the flour, eggs and breadcrumbs. Cut the chicken into smaller pieces that will fit into the buns. Roll each bun in the flour followed by the eggs and breadcrumbs. 8. Fill a large pot with
vegetable oil and heat it up to 180º C. Fry the chicken pieces for around 5 mins or until golden brown and cooked through. Drain on kitchen paper and season with salt. 9. To assemble the Mantozzi,
slice each bun in half from the top (but not all the way to the bottom) as you would cut a hot dog bun. Put in a dollop of aioli, followed by the fried chicken. 10. Garnish with a drizzle of aioli, the sliced chilli, spring onion and coriander leaves. You can serve the Mantozzi with a slice of lime for the guests to squeeze on the buns, helping to pull the flavours together.
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T&F ENTERTAINING
Pine nuts, raisins, anchovies and wild fennel are used very often in Sicilian cuisine
Pasta con le Sarde This is a pasta dish that essentially offers a true taste of Sicily. Pine nuts, raisins, anchovies and wild fennel are used very often in Sicilian cuisine and this recipe marries them all together perfectly. YOU WILL NEED
400g spaghetti, or other long pasta 1 small onion, finely diced • 4 anchovy fillets, chopped ½ fennel bulb, finely diced (fennel fronds reserved) 50ml of white wine • 40g pine nuts, toasted if preferred 40g raisins • 8 fresh sardines, filleted • 1 lemon 2 tablespoons olive oil • breadcrumbs, toasted
PREPARATION & COOKING TIME
SERVES
30
4
MINUTES
PERSONS
WINE SUGGESTION
Vermentino di Gallura 42
ISSUE 122 SEPTEMBER 2019
1. In a frying pan set
3. Slice the sardine
5. Drain the pasta
over medium heat, add the onion, fennel and anchovies with the olive oil and fry until soft, but not coloured. The anchovies should melt into the sauce
fillets into 3 or 4 pieces then add them to the pan. Cook for 1 minute, being careful not to stir too much or the fish will fall apart.
then add it to the pan and gently toss it till it’s properly coated.
2. Once soft, add the
white wine and turn up the heat. Reduce the liquid until the pan is nearly dry, then stir in the pine nuts and raisins
4. Cook the pasta in a
pan of heavily salted boiling water for 8–10 minutes, or as per packet instructions
6. Season with a little
lemon zest and a squeeze of the juice. Taste and adjust the seasoning if required 7. Divide between
bowls and garnish with toasted breadcrumbs and the fennel tops.
T&F ENTERTAINING
Lobster & Prawn Wellington A bit of effort and time is needed to prepare this dish. Save it for that exceptional occasion when you need to make an impression on special guests.
PREPARATION & COOKING TIME WINE SUGGESTION
1
Oaked chardonnay, preferably a Californian chardonnay or Burgundy chardonnay such as Meursault
DAY MAKES
4 PORTIONS IDEAL FOR A FORMAL MEAL
Prawns and lobster YOU WILL NEED
100g peeled prawns 1 small egg white 50ml cream Salt and white pepper 2 tablespoons lobster sauce reduction 2 tablespoons bearnaise sauce 100g lobster tail meat, roughly chopped 400g puff pastry 4 spring roll pastry sheets 2 egg yolks beaten to use as egg wash
1. Blend the prawns
and egg white together, add the cream, and season to taste. 2. Place the lobster in a
mixing bowl. Mix the lobster sauce with the béarnaise sauce and add it to the lobster meat. Mix gently and season.
3. Place four square pieces
of rolled out puff pastry onto a flat work surface and cover each one with a spring roll wrapper. Spread the prawn mix over them and then lay the lobster mix down the middle. Brush the edges of each square with egg wash then carefully wrap up each one. 4. Transfer the pastry rolls
to a baking paper-lined oven tray. Brush all over with egg wash then place in the fridge for 1 hour. 5. Bake in a preheated
oven at 200°C for 8 minutes, then reduce to 180°C and cook for a further 5 minutes. 6. Warm the lobster
sauce gently in a sauce pan and add 50ml of fresh cream. Cook for 2 minutes and check seasoning before serving. 7. Trim the edges of
the pastry rolls. Serve either whole or cut into thick slices on warm lobster sauce.
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Béarnaise sauce 65ml white wine vinegar 10g finely chopped onion 2 peppercorns 4 sprigs tarragon 3 egg yolks 250g clarified butter or ghee, warm 4 sprigs tarragon salt and pepper
1. Make the vinegar
reduction by placing the vinegar, chopped onion, peppercorns and tarragon into a small pot. Heat the liquid till it reduces by half, then leave to cool and strain it to remove the solids. 2. Place the egg yolks
Lobster Sauce 100g butter 400g lobster and prawn shells 300ml brandy 60g carrots, peeled and chopped 60g onions, peeled and chopped 60g fresh fennel, peeled and chopped 25g tomato purée 100ml dry white wine 25g plain flour 1l fish stock 3 cloves garlic
1. Place half the butter
into a large pot and let it melt. Add the shells and stir fry for 5 minutes to start browning slightly then carefully add ½ the brandy and flame. Add the rest of the butter and brandy and reduce the heat. 2. Add the vegetables
into a heatproof glass bowl over a bain marie and whisk them till they start to thicken.
and cook for 2 minutes before adding the tomato purée. Stir, then add the white wine and cook to reduce the liquid.
3. Gradually add the
3. Mix in the flour, then
warm butter slowly while whisking all the time. If the mix becomes too thick, loosen it with a teaspoon of warm water.
the stock and the garlic. Bring it all to the boil, then cover the pan and let it simmer gently for 45 minutes. Leave the mixture to cool before passing it through a sieve.
4. Finally add the
cooled and strained vinegar reduction. Season and add some tarragon. Keep warm.
4. Place the sauce into a
pot and reduce by half to about 175ml. Keep aside until serving time.
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Exclusively imported by:
IV CELLARS, SIR ARTURO MERCIECA STREET (ADJACENT TO THE DIPLOMAT HOTEL), SLIEMA WWW.IVCELLARSMALTA.COM
WINE T&F
SUMMER REDS
In a country where the average temperature between April and November is well above 20°C and a barbecue is never further than a stone’s throw away, cool red wines can be the perfect alternative to whites and rosés, says wine specialist Andrew Azzopardi.
Serving wine at room temperature refers to an approximate 20°C, so chilling red wine slightly makes sense in summer
W
hen I open a bottle of slightly chilled red wine on a hot summer’s day, friends usually ask why I’m chilling red wine “when it should be served at room temperature” or how the chilling affects its flavours. Red wines can indeed be heavy in summer and lose flavour when chilled too much. However, these are general guidelines that do not take Malta’s Mediterranean climate into consideration. In the peak of summer, when you’re grilling meat, it just makes more sense to go for the lighter, juicier and fruitier red wines after chilling them for 20 minutes. Serving wine at “room temperature” refers to an approximate 20°C, so chilling red wine slightly makes sense in summer, particularly as the right serving temperature gets the best out of the bottle. If the wine is too “warm” it could have a “hot” alcoholic, soupy and unpleasant taste, whereas if it is too cold the flavours will be muted or the wine rendered tasteless. One of the most interesting aspects of the serving temperature of wine is the ability to play on the lightness of its body, which means you can serve the same wine with a variety of foods. Chilling the wine for 15-20 minutes highlights its fresh and fruity components, which works well with lighter starter dishes including salads, pasta and fish. By the time the richer dishes are served, the wine would have warmed up enough to show more complexity and richness which stands up to the stronger taste of game and lighter meats. The main question is, which wines do you chill? Chilling the 2005 Bordeaux you’ve saved for a special occasion probably isn’t the best idea, but lighter, more fruit-forward wines could work splendidly. In terms of taste, it’s all about fresh, lively and youthful fruit with little to no oak. The best thing is most of these wines are often found at the cheaper end of the scale, so playing around with their temperature would not really harm them. On the other hand, for more complexity and elegance for a summery moonlit dinner, Burgundy, New Zealand and Oregon Pinot Noirs offer some super-premium wines which are among the world’s best. Below are a few of my recommended value summer reds which are perfect for chilling before your next summer lunch. There are lots of opportunities to experiment with summer reds and chilling temperatures. Go for light, fruity, no tannins and no oak and you’re off to a winning start.
Lambrusco This wine that takes me back to my childhood Sundays. The perks of having a large family (we’re speaking of often 20 or more noisy family members eating, drinking and being merry) was the fact that I was often able to steal a glass or two of the slightly sparkling Lambrusco without any of the adults noticing. Wonderfully fruity, refreshing and low in tannins with tiny bubbles, and better known as ‘frizzante, it is undeniably summery. Like most of the fun-loving summer reds Lambrusco has the bad reputation of being a sweet, cheap, soda-tasting wine found in your grandma’s cupboard. That might have been true back in the 1980’s, but today there are several dry Lambrusco worth bringing out for your next lunch. Thankfully due to the wine’s bad reputation, the prices have remained fairly low, putting the better-made, quality Lambrusco within most budgets. Look for names such as Lambrusco Maestri, Lambrusco di Sorbara and Lambrusco Grasparossa which go down a treat with grilled sausages or ribs. Bardolino & Valpolicella Classico Bardolino Classico and its older sibling Valpolicella Classico, produced in the Veneto region in Italy are another two underrated wines. More ambitious winemakers have been working hard to improve the quality of the likes of Valpolicella and Bardolino. One way of distinguishing the better wines is the “Classico” description, which refers to the grapes being from the better central zones of the region than the outer zones. As with most wines of this level, price is often a good indicator of quality. I do not recommend the really cheap, entry-level versions, because a good quality Valpolicella Classico bursting with bitter cherry flavours and having a good structure and longevity will give you way more enjoyment for a few more euros. I find that a bit of research on the producer goes a long way towards helping you sort out the good from the bad. Some renowned producers are great starts, but there are a host of other up and coming great quality producers to discover.
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T&F WINE
The really top quality and super expensive Valpolicella tend to be a bit on the rich side for chilling with light summer meals. However, I would still recommend opening a bottle of these beauties during the cooler months, since they resemble more of the Amarone style than the tangy, cherry flavoured Classico style we would expect. As with Valpolicella, Bardolino Classico is another underrated Italian wine, probably even more than Valpolicella. The light and fruity wine produced just overlooking Lake Garda is actually meant to be served slightly chilled as an accompaniment to simple summer foods, however the wines have improved tremendously and, like Valpolicella, there are some Bardolino Classico wines that exude elegance, style and spice. Bardolino Classico is probably not the wine I’d choose to go with my favourite grilled steak, but I would be happy to enjoy it with a wholesome “hobz biz-zejt” (traditional Maltese traditional bread and tomato snack) – slightly chilled of course.
Barbera D’Alba A wine found in most restaurant wine-lists, Barbera D’Alba is often at the cheaper end of the scale. It is made from the black Barbera grape from the piedmont region, on neighbouring soils of the famously powerful Barolo and Barbaresco wines. Known for its ripe fruit and vibrant acidity, Barbera d’Alba was considered an easy-drinking, food-friendly wine, often drunk on an everyday basis in Piemonte, leaving the special occasions to the super Nebbiolo grape. These are the perfect wines to chill before your next summer evening bash. However, if you want something more special, a budget of €25.00 a bottle will gift you with some fantastic examples. The introduction of French oak barriques to the aging process, which has made up for the somewhat lack of tannins, can propel this wine to compete with the more serious stuff. Only recently, I was invited for a typical Maltese “fenkata” (rabbit dish) and I opened a bottle of 2016 Barbera d’Alba and the result was nothing short of great. This particular wine, being pretty robust, can match up to some of the richer dishes such as grilled meats, sausages and pasta Bolognese. Pinot Noir
Beaujolais The French appellation, just south of Burgundy, is often overlooked due to the dull, bubble-gum-tasting Beaujolais Nouveau we get served during our Christmas party. Yet, the appellation offers a variety of quality, juicy and interesting wines that even sommeliers tend to forget. The wines from Beaujolais are made from the purple-hued Gamay grape that is easier to grow than its neighbouring Pinot Noir. Its high acidity is softened with Carbonic Maceration, a process that allows the vibrant and youthful fruit expressions of crushed strawberries and raspberries, as well as deep floral notes of lilac and violets to shine through. It is renowned for imparting typical flavours of bubble gum. These wines are typically light bodied, fruity, refreshing and meant to be drunk within a few years. The Cru Beaujolias produce more complex wines which age quite well and have flavours of sour cherry, dried berries and a minerality often compared to freshly cut stone. Do look out for wines from some of the best areas including Brouilly, Fleurie, Saint Amour, Chénas, Juliénas, Morgon and Moulin-à-Vent next time you’re wondering what to pair with the quiche Lorraine and grilled chicken skewers you’ve packed for the picnic.
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Pinot Noir is the most difficult, complex yet amazing grape and by far the most popular light bodied type and the 10th most planted in the world. It has its own dedicated followers and has even been the centre of one of the most popular wine-influenced films of all time, “Sideways”. The grape is synonymous with Burgundy, where it originates, but there are other places which produce some spectacular renditions of Pinot Noir. Alsace in France, Pfalz in Germany, Burgenland in Austria, and new world areas including Martinborough in New Zealand and several regions in California have been producing beautiful Pinot Noirs worthy of exploring. Only recently, producers in the United Kingdom started planting the grape to add to their sparkling wine blend. (Pinot Noir is one of the three important grapes used in Champagne, the other two being Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier.) Owing to the variety of countries and areas in which Pinot Noir is grown, there are many different types and styles, each attributable to the different climates. It is safe to assume, however, that besides the Pinot Noirs from California, the wine produced is generally light-bodied, refreshing and extremely elegant. New Zealand produces some spectacular Pinot Noirs with great refreshing acidity, longevity and red fruit flavours of strawberries and cherries, which are perfect for poolside drinking. Considered one of the most challenging grapes to grow, Pinot Noir prices are understandably at the more expensive end of the scale, but new-world countries like New Zealand are producing great value Pinot Noir wines which I often choose to chill slightly for several of my summer dinners. These wines are usually juicy and plump with superb elegance and style and virtually never disappoint. Contrary to many Californian producers, New Zealand Pinot Noirs have little to no oak aging, giving them more of a refreshing and lighter bodied style. Burgundian Pinot Noirs are also at the lighter end of the scale but may have longer oak aging and definitely higher prices. Burgundy Pinot Noir is currently the most expensive wine worldwide upon release, with Domaine de la Romanée coming in first place averaging prices of €18,000 a bottle. But, at €15 to €20 a bottle, it’s not hard to find a good value New World Pinot Noir with enough structure and elegance to impress even the most demanding of palates. n
a bit of research on the producer goes a long way towards helping you sort out the good from the bad
IN SEASON T&F
IN SEASON Eaten fresh and in season, fish is the ultimate convenience food. Bought or caught, it needs minimal preparation and can be cooked in minutes. These recipes use sustainable fish which are available most of the year. Food by fish for tomorrow and Mediterranean Culinary Academy
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T&F IN SEASON
Fried Bogue with lemon, caper and garlic pan sauce We chose bogue for this recipe because they are the perfect size for serving as a whole fried fish and they’re also wonderfully sustainable. If your fishmonger doesn’t have bogue in stock, you can use fillets of lampuki or comber instead.
PREPARATION
SERVES
30
2
MINUTES
PERSONS
Fish facts
BOGUE
YOU WILL NEED
50g corn flour • 50g egg white 250g semolina flour • 2 bogue (vopi)
Bogue (vopi) can be found at fishmongers for most of the year. Though they are sometimes caught with purse seine nets or gill nets in Malta, they are generally caught using pots. Avoid buying bogue under 9cm in length, the minimum legal size for sustainable fishing.
FOR THE SAUCE
10 chopped capers • minced chili to taste 1 clove of minced garlic 2 sprigs of mint • 2 sprigs oregano juice and zest of 1 lemon extra virgin olive oil and salt as needed
1. Begin by gutting and descaling your
fish if your fishmonger hasn’t done that already. Pat the fish dry with paper towel and store it in the fridge until needed. 2. To coat the fish, make a slurry by
combining equal parts egg white and corn flour whisked together until a smooth paste is formed. 3. Brush the paste onto the fish, season
it well with salt and then dust it liberally in semolina mixed with a little bit of salt. 4. Preheat a small skillet over
medium-high heat with a generous few glugs of olive oil. 5. Once the oil is hot, gently lay the
bogue into the pan. Use a spatula to do this and keep your distance from the pan as the oil will sizzle and spit. Repeat with the second fish and top up the oil so that both fish are half-submerged
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6. After 2 minutes, or once the fish is
8. Remove the excess oil from the pan and
lightly browned, use a spatula to flip the fish over to the other side and continue to cook them for another 2 minutes.
quickly sauté the chili, capers and garlic. Season the sauce to taste with lemon juice and lemon zest, and finish it by adding a small handful of picked mint and oregano leaves.
7. Remove the fish from the pan and
place them onto a plate lined with paper towels to absorb the excess oil.
9. Spoon the sauce liberally over and around
the fish and serve immediately.
“Avoid buying bogue under 9cm in length, the minimum legal size for sustainable fishing.”
T
hese recipes were developed as part of the fish for tomorrow and Mediterranean Culinary Academy project “Rediscovering Maltese Culinary Heritage Through Sustainable Seafood”, which concludes with a cooking class and pop-up dining experience on 6th and 7th September. See fish for tomorrow’s Facebook page for video guides to these recipes and to keep updated on fish sustainably caught from Malta’s seas.
IN SEASON T&F
Comber (serran) baked on kapunata Comber bakes and braises beautifully and this recipe can easily be replicated with just about any fish that takes your liking. Mackerel or lampuki would be two of our first choices as both are easily available and sustainable.
PREPARATION
SERVES
90
2
MINUTES
PERSONS
YOU WILL NEED
1 medium-sized comber (serran) 1 onion, diced • 1 red pepper, diced 1 medium aubergine, diced 2 tomatoes, diced 2 cloves of garlic, minced 1 tablespoon of tomato paste 2 tablespoons chopped black olives 1 tablespoon capers salt, pepper & extra virgin olive oil to taste
1. Begin by preheating the oven to
180°C. Once diced, season the aubergine cubes liberally with salt and allow them to sit for 10 minutes to remove excess bitterness. They will release some moisture so pat them dry with paper towels once the 10 minutes are up. Fish facts
COMBER
2. Place the aubergine onto a baking
sheet and drizzle generously with olive oil. Roast in the preheated oven for 20-30 minutes or until lightly browned and tender. 3. Place a medium-sized pot over
medium-high heat and begin by sweating the diced onion and bell peppers with a generous pinch of salt for 10 minutes. 4. Add the minced garlic and tomato
paste and cook for an additional 2 minutes. Add the diced tomatoes and cook for 20 minutes or until the entire mixture is tender but the vegetables still have some texture. 5. Remove the pot from the stove
and garnish the kapunata with the aubergine, capers and olives. Adjust the seasoning to taste with salt and pepper. 6. Gut and scale the comber (serran)
Comber is not usually the prime target of fishing operations and is largely a bycatch product, but it is caught all year round and is widely available, more so in the warmer months.
if your fishmonger hasn’t done that already. Rinse the fish with cold water and pat them dry with paper towels. Season liberally with olive oil, salt and pepper. 7. Fill a small casserole dish with the
kapunata and nestle the comber in the centre. Place the dish into a preheated oven for 20 minutes or until the fish is cooked through and tender.
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FINE DINING T&F
Feast
Whether served as a banquet for a special occasion or individually as a self-indulgent meal, classic recipes hit all the right notes. Daniel Debattista, Executive Chef at The Phoenicia, serves up a mouthwatering feast.
Wine recommendation: Silvan Camilleri, Food & Beverage Manager, The Phoenicia Styling: Corinne Vella and Sean Mallia • Food photography: Sean Mallia
Classic recipes can seem intimidating but these are relatively easy to prepare. Choose the best quality ingredients you can find. They will make all the difference. The number of servings in each recipe varies and can easily be adjusted for larger or smaller numbers of people.
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T&F FINE DINING
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FINE DINING T&F
Prawns and Oysters with Cocktail Sauce This elegant dish is quick and easy to prepare. The prawns and oysters need minimal preparation and both the cocktail sauce and its mayonnaise base can be made a day ahead. Look for quality oysters and prawns from a trusted supplier. The oysters should be tightly closed and feel heavy for their size, and the prawns should be plump and odourless, and have no bruises. For this recipe, I chose large Tiger prawns and butterflied them, leaving the shells on. To serve, first fill a serving bowl with crushed ice. Place the prawns around the edge of the bowl and place the oysters and some lemon wedges in the centre. Serve with the cocktail sauce on the side.
WINE SUGGESTION
Blanc de Blanc Champagne from CĂ´tes des Blancs, Champagne, France
A
B
C
D
Mayonnaise
Cocktail sauce
Oysters
Prawns
THIS CAN BE PREPARED
THIS CAN BE PREPARED
ALLOW 3 OYSTERS
ALLOW 3 PRAWNS
A DAY IN ADVANCE.
A DAY IN ADVANCE.
PER SERVING
PER SERVING
YIELD 400G
YIELD 300G
PREPARATION 10 MINUTES
PREPARATION 15 MINUTES
PREPARATION 10 MINUTES
PREPARATION 10 MINUTES
350ml sunflower seed oil 10ml white wine vinegar 1 tablespoon water 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 3 egg yolks Juice of 1 lemon 2g fine sea salt (to taste) 1 pinch cayenne pepper (to taste)
200g homemade mayonnaise 50g tomato ketchup 20g fresh horseradish root, finely grated 1 tablespoon good quality Cognac 1 dash Worcester sauce juice of 3 fresh oysters finely snipped chives (optional)
1. Quickly rinse the
1. Prepare a pot of water
oysters under cold running water and open them.
and season it heavily with sea salt. Bring the water to the boil and then reduce it to a simmer.
1. Let the egg yolks,
water, salt, vinegar, and mustard reach room temperature, then place them in a mixing bowl. 2. Whisk all the ingredients
together and gradually add the oil in a steady stream to emulsify the mixture. Continue whisking until a thick emulsion is formed. 3. Season the mayonnaise
to taste with lemon juice and cayenne pepper.
1. Put the required measure
of homemade mayonnaise into a separate mixing bowl. With a spatula, gently mix in the tomato ketchup and the grated horseradish.
2. If you prepare the
cocktail sauce just before serving the oysters keep the juice of 3 of them to season the sauce.
2. Gently poach the
3. Check the oysters
prawns for two and a half minutes. Meanwhile, prepare a bowl filled with ice cold water.
to make sure there are no shell splinters.
3. When the prawns are
2. Season with Worcester
done, transfer them to the bowl of cold water to cool them down rapidly. Leave them in the water for two and a half minutes.
sauce and oyster juice, and finish off with the Cognac.
4. Place a cloth on a
3. For extra depth of
flavour, finish off with finely snipped chives.
4. Serve the oysters
naturally over crushed ice.
tray, remove the prawns from the cold water, place them on the tray and pat them dry.
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T&F FINE DINING
Steak auPoivre
Served with watercress
Don’t be discouraged by the number of steps in this recipe. It’s a lot simpler than it looks at first glance. You can prepare the pepper crust a day ahead but prepare the sauce just before cooking the meat and keep it warm until serving time.
SERVES
2 PERSONS
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WINE SUGGESTION
Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec from Mendoza, Argentina
FINE DINING T&F
PREPARE THE FILLET STEAKS
First, prepare and trim the fillet. Remove the silver skin, trim the end tail and reserve this for another dish. Cut off the head-end of the fillet (chateaubriand) and reserve this for another roasted dish. This will leave you with the middle part of the fillet (tournedos). Cut this into steaks of 180g-200g per portion, place them on a tray, and refrigerate.
3. Now, lower the heat, add
the cream, and simmer for two minutes. Add the Dijon mustard to taste and then whisk in a knob of butter. 4. Taste the sauce and add
salt, if necessary. Then add the thyme leaves to infuse and keep the sauce warm until serving time. COOK THE TOURNEDOS STEAKS (20 MINUTES)
1. Take the steaks out of PREPARE THE PEPPERCORNS
1. Drain the green corns
from the brine and dry over a cloth. In a dry pan over a medium heat, start toasting the green peppercorns. 2. Next, add the black
peppercorns and once a slight smoke/aroma rises, add the pink peppercorns. 3. Continue toasting the
peppercorns until slightly toasted and shiny. Remove them from the pan and let them cool down. Next, crush the cooled peppercorns to a coarse consistency with a pestle and mortar, and set aside. PREPARE THE SAUCE (25 MINUTES)
1. In some butter, sweat the YOU WILL NEED
SAUCE
1 fillet of good quality beef of your choice 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard sea salt butter/garlic/thyme
250ml veal stock (you can buy this from a quality supermarket) 15g shallots, finely chopped 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 10ml Xeres vinegar 20ml Cognac 5g crushed black peppercorns 2 knobs butter 50ml cream 1 teaspoon thyme leaves, picked off the stem
PEPPER CRUST (PREPARE THIS A DAY IN ADVANCE)
10g black peppercorns 50g green peppercorns in brine 100g pink peppercorns 10g Schezuan peppercorns (optional)
shallots with the crushed black pepper. Do not let them colour. This will take about two minutes on medium-low heat. Deglaze the pan with the Xeres vinegar and cook until the liquid reduces completely. 2. Add the Cognac and
reduce the liquid by half over a medium heat. Add the veal stock and reduce again rapidly by half.
the fridge and set them aside till they reach room temperature. Season the meat generously with sea salt. 2. In a skillet, heat up some
butter and fry the steaks on all sides until golden. Place the steaks in a pre-heated oven for 3 minutes, turning them around every minute. Remove the steaks from the skillet and rest them on a tray for 5 minutes. 3. Brush Dijon mustard on
the top side of the fillet and sprinkle over generously with the peppercorn crust. 4. In a clean pan, heat up
some more butter, add the whole, crushed garlic and a couple of thyme sprigs. Place the steak in the pan and baste all over with the butter for 3 minutes, until the steak reaches 52°C (medium-rare). Remove the steak from the pan and place it onto a clean towel to remove excess oil. TO SERVE
Season the steaks with sea salt and serve with the peppercorn sauce and watercress.
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T&F FINE DINING
Lobster Thermidor I recommend serving Scottish lobster. Choose yours from a trusted supplier and make sure it is alive and strong. Note that the sauce in this recipe is enough for two whole lobsters. If you plan to serve only one lobster, halve the amount of ingredients.
SERVES
PREPARATION
2
45
PERSONS
MINUTES
WINE SUGGESTION
Chardonnay from Puligny Montrachet, Burgundy, France YOU WILL NEED
1 whole, fresh lobster, approximately 800-900g 500ml good quality fish stock 10g butter, unsalted 15g shallot, finely chopped 1 tablespoon tomato paste 1 tablespoon wholegrain mustard 50ml Cognac • 2 egg yolks 20g Parmesan, finely grated 40g Gruyere, finely grated 20g tarragon, chives and chervil, finely chopped lobster coral (see step 3) 150ml semi-whipped cream
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FINE DINING T&F
1. Stun the lobster
2. Bring a large pot
3. Remove the claws
4. Clean the lobster
5. Crack the claws
by placing it in the freezer for about 15 minutes. Then, insert a sharp knife in the middle of the head where you see a cross mark and cut through.
of salted water to the boil. Weigh the lobster and blanch it in boiling water for 1 minute for every 100g. Then transfer it immediately to a bowl of iced water and leave it there for 10 minutes to cool down.
and knuckles and set them aside. Cut the lobster lengthwise and remove the tail meat from the shell. Remove the lobster coral (the green sac) and reserve it.
meat by removing all the white milky material and then pat the meat dry. Rinse the shells and pat them dry.
and knuckles using scissors to cut through the shell, then clean and dry them the same way.
7. Prepare the sauce
9. Cook until the liquid
by gently sweating the shallots in butter until softened. Add the tomato paste and cook gently for 2 minutes, then add the mustard.
reduces completely. Then, add the fish stock and cook until the liquid reduces by 2/3. Remove the pan from the heat, add the lobster coral, Parmesan and half the Gruyere and fold the mixture together.
10. Allow the sauce to cool, add the finely chopped herbs and refrigerate for 10 minutes.
12. Take the base sauce from the fridge, and lightly fold in the whipped cream (you might not need to use all the cream).
8. Pour in the Cognac
and use a wooden spoon to scrape and deglaze the pan.
11. In a bowl, whip the cream to form soft peaks, add the egg yolks and whisk again till the mixture is semi-whipped.
6. Reserve the meat on
a tray in the fridge.
13. Spoon the sauce
into the shells. Arrange the lobster meat neatly in the shells. Cover the meat with the
sauce and sprinkle the remaining Gruyere over the top. Place the remaining sauce back in the fridge. 14. Bake the lobster in an appropriate dish at 185°C until lightly gratinated. Garnish with chervil and serve immediately.
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T&F FINE DINING
Tomato Gazpacho A favourite summertime classic, tomato gazpacho is tasty and satisfying. Served garnished with fresh basil, it’s as good to look at as it is to eat.
SERVES
PREPARATION
8-10
45
PERSONS
MINUTES
WINE SUGGESTION
Fino Sherry from Jerez, Spain
YOU WILL NEED
2 kg ripe plum tomatoes 4 red peppers, deseeded and diced 2 medium-sized white onions, finely sliced 2 cucumbers, peeled and chopped 1 fennel bulb, finely sliced 2 celery sticks, finely sliced 4 garlic cloves, peeled 1 red chilli, deseeded 50g sugar
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SEASONING
1. Mix all the marinade
50ml sherry vinegar 100ml extra virgin olive oil 100g fresh basil
ingredients together in a sealable container.
over a low heat until completely cooked. Let them cool down in their own juices and then place them in the fridge to chill.
2. Take half the tomatoes
4. Mix the marinated tomatoes
and cut them into quarters. Place them in the marinade, seal the container and leave it in the fridge overnight.
and the cooled cooked vegetables together and blend thoroughly, adding a little bit of water to adjust the consistency, if necessary.
3. Chop the rest of the
5. Run the mixture through
tomatoes and vegetables. Pour the olive oil into a pot, add the chopped vegetables, cover the pot and sweat the vegetables
a sieve to obtain a smooth texture and consistency.
FOR THE MARINADE (PREPARE THIS A DAY AHEAD)
100ml extra virgin olive oil 100g fresh basil 10g sea salt 5g black peppercorns 2g coriander seeds 8g sugar 2 cloves garlic
6. Season with extra olive oil,
vinegar and sea salt to taste. Serve garnished with freshly chopped basil leaves.
Exclusively imported by:
IV CELLARS, SIR ARTURO MERCIECA STREET (ADJACENT TO THE DIPLOMAT HOTEL), SLIEMA WWW.IVCELLARSMALTA.COM
T&F FINE DINING
YOU WILL NEED
12 hard-boiled eggs, peeled 35g homemade mayonnaise 2 drops anchovy essence half a ripe avocado, passed through a sieve 1 tablespoon finely chopped dill 1 teaspoon finely chopped shallot 1 pinch smoked hot paprika fine sea salt (to taste, if needed)
Devilled Eggs Served with salmon roe and avocado Disarmingly simple to prepare and delightful to look at, these devilled eggs combine the creamy taste of avocado with the salty tang of salmon roe
SERVES
PREPARATION
12
15
PERSONS ALLOW 2 EGG HALVES PER PERSON
MINUTES + 5 MINUTES TO FINISH
WINE SUGGESTION
Kabinett Riesling from Mosel, Germany
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1. Carefully cut the peeled
boiled eggs in half with a non-serrated blade and remove the yolks. Place the whites neatly on a tray and refrigerate. 2. Cut a ripe avocado in
half and pass the flesh through a fine mesh into a mixing bowl. Repeat the process with the egg yolks. 3. Gently fold the avocado
and yolks together. Next, add the mayonnaise and fold it in. Season with anchovy essence, smoked hot paprika and sea salt (if needed). 4. Fold in the
shallot and dill. 5. Put the mixture in a
piping bag and refrigerate it for 30 minutes. TO SERVE
Take the egg whites out of the refrigerator and pipe in the egg yolk and avocado mixture. Top each egg half generously with salmon roe and serve at once.
T&F FINE DINING
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FINE DINING T&F
Sherry Trifle served with Peaches Homemade joconde sponge, creamy sauce Anglaise and whipped cream layered with seasonal peaches and raspberries
SERVES
4 PERSONS
Joconde sponge (prepare this a day in advance)
WINE SUGGESTION
Moscato d’Asti from Piedmont, Italy Peaches Preparation 10 minutes
Crème Chantilly Preparation 5 minutes
YOU WILL NEED
YOU WILL NEED
YOU WILL NEED
230g caster sugar 6 whole eggs 200g ground almonds 60g sifted flour 166g egg whites (approximately 4 eggs) 75g butter
4 whole seasonal peaches • 80g sugar 500ml water • 1 dash dry sherry juice of 1 lemon • ½ a vanilla pod
500ml fresh cream 80g icing sugar ½ a vanilla pod
1. Peel the peaches, cut them
1. Whisk the ingredients together
in half and remove the stone, then cut the flesh into cubes.
until soft peaks form.
1. Pre-heat the oven to 175°C. 2. Mix together the ground
almonds, sifted flour and 3 eggs with a k-beater to form a paste. 3. In a separate bowl, whisk together
150g caster sugar with 3 eggs until pale and fluffy. Gently fold the mixture in with the almond paste. 4. Whisk the egg whites in a bowl
until stiff peaks form. Slowly add 80g caster sugar, whisking in between to make a glossy meringue. Gently fold the meringue into the other mixture, a little at a time.
2. Add the water, sherry, lemon,
vanilla and sugar to a saucepan and bring it to the boil. 3. Add the cubed peaches and
gently poach them for 2 minutes. 4. Leave them to cool in the syrup.
2. Place the mixture into a piping bag
with a nozzle of choice for decoration. 3. Keep the cream in the
fridge until needed. To assemble PREPARATION 5 MINUTES
raspberry jam • Harvey’s sherry cocoa powder • chocolate shavings fresh raspberries
Custard base – sauce Anglaise Preparation 15 minutes YOU WILL NEED
1. Cut the joconde sponge into 4 equal
parts. Spread each layer with raspberry jam, then stack the layers on each other and freeze for 15 minutes or until set.
5. Finally, melt the butter and
500ml milk • 500ml cream 180g sugar • ½ a vanilla pod • 8 egg yolks
2. Remove the sponge from the freezer
gently fold it into the mixture until incorporated.
1. In a saucepan, add the
and cut it into small cubes, drizzle with sherry and leave to soak.
6. Spread the mixture onto a
cream, milk and vanilla and gently bring it to the boil.
3. Remove the peaches from the
2. In a bowl, whisk together the
syrup and place them in the bottom of a coupe or glass of your choice.
egg yolks and sugar. Then, whisk in the hot milk and cream.
4. Arrange the cubed layered soaked
greased and lined 60 x 40 baking tray and bake at 175°C for 15 minutes or until golden brown. 7. Remove the sponge from the
oven, and leave it to cool.
3. Pour the mixture back into the
saucepan and simmer on a gentle heat, whisking continuously until thickened and smooth. 4. Remove the pan from the
heat, run the mixture through a sieve and keep it warm.
sponge on top of the peaches, add some extra sherry and pour over the custard base. Place the filled glasses in the fridge to cool and set. 5. Once the trifle’s set, pipe the crème
Chantilly decoratively over the top. 6. Dust with cocoa powder,
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SWEETS T&F
Delicious Desserts
There’s always room for dessert, especially when they look and taste as good as these. Claire Borg made and photographed these irresistible sweets. If you’re entertaining a large party, make up individual portions of several different desserts and serve them on a large tray. All these recipes can all be made ahead and kept chilled until needed.
“Make sure you use super fresh eggs, preferably organic or from a reputable source.”
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T&F SWEETS
Golden Milk Pannacotta SERVES
PREPARATION
8
15
PERSONS
MINUTES +3 HOURS OR MORE TO CHILL
YOU WILL NEED
500ml milk • 500ml cream 2 teaspoons turmeric • 1” piece fresh ginger 6 green cardamom pods • 1 pinch black pepper 3 tablespoons honey • 1 teaspoon cinnamon 2 sachets gelatine powder (enough to set 1 litre of liquid)
1. Over about 4 tablespoons of water, sprinkle the gelatine and set aside. 2. Place the spices in the milk and bring it to a gentle boil. Simmer on a
very low heat for 5 minutes. Strain the milk to remove the spices. 3. Bring the milk back to a gentle simmer and add the cream. Bring the mixture back to a gentle simmer, then turn off the heat and add the gelatine. Stir the mixture very well until the gelatine is properly dissolved. 4. Set the pan aside to let it cool down. 5. When the mixture is properly cooled, add the honey and stir it in
well. Pour into 8 cups and place in the fridge. Cool until well set. 6. Just before serving garnish with some mixed seeds or nuts and a drizzle of honey.
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SWEETS T&F
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T&F SWEETS
Vanilla and Raspberry Pannacotta
SERVES
PREPARATION
8
25
PERSONS
MINUTES +3 HOURS OR MORE TO CHILL
YOU WILL NEED
500ml milk 500ml cream 4 tablespoons sugar 1 vanilla pod, scraped 2 sachets gelatine powder (enough to set 1 litre of liquid) RASPBERRY TOPPING
300g frozen raspberries ½ a glass of white wine ½ teaspoon cinnamon 150g sugar
1. Place the raspberries, cinnamon,
wine and sugar in a pan over a low heat and bring it to a gentle boil. 2. Stir well to make sure all the sugar is
dissolved. Let the mixture cook for about 20 minutes then set the pan aside to cool. 3. Over about 4 tablespoons of water,
sprinkle the gelatine and set aside. 4. Place the vanilla in a large pot with
the milk, sugar and cream and bring it all to a gentle boil. Turn off the heat as soon as the mixture starts to boil. 5. Strain the liquid to remove the
vanilla pod and then add the gelatine. Stir the mixture very well until the gelatine is properly dissolved. Set the liquid aside to let it cool down. 6. Pour the mixture into 8 cups
and place them in the fridge. Let them cool until well set. 7. Just before serving top
with the raspberry sauce and some fresh raspberries. 72
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100% FRESH MALTESE MILK
1 Ltr 500 ml AVAILABLE IN :
Benna farmers milk their cows everyday to bring out the natural goodness of milk, and within 24 hours, our dedicated team ensures that Benna milk stays as fresh, tasty, nutritious and wholesome as mother nature intends it to be. www.benna.com.mt
T&F SWEETS
Tiramisù
I find that Tiramisu always tastes better the next day, so if you have time prepare this well ahead. If not, it can be served after two hours. Since this recipe contains raw egg, make sure you use super fresh eggs, preferably organic or from a reputable source. Food containing raw egg is best avoided if in pregnancy and by young children and seniors. MAKES
PREPARATION
12
20
SMALL PORTIONS OR A LARGE TRAY
MINUTES +2 HOURS OR MORE TO CHILL
FOR THE BASE
2 packets Savoiardi biscuits (about 40 biscuits) 400 ml of strong espresso coffee 3 shots of Tia Maria • 4 tablespoons sugar
1. Make the coffee, dissolve the sugar and cool. 2. Add the alcohol and then set the mixture
aside until you need to dip in the biscuits. FOR THE TIRAMISU MIX
800g Mascarpone • 300g crème fraîche • 6 egg yolks 6 tablespoons sugar • a few drops of vanilla essence 4 shots dark rum • cocoa powder for topping
1. Beat the sugar and egg yolks together until light and fluffy. 2. Add the vanilla and mascarpone and beat until smooth. 3. Add the crème fraîche and rum and mix well 4. Prepare your containers. If you are using a large tray, start with a little cream
mix at the bottom. If you’re preparing individual portions, start directly with the soaked biscuits. Dip the Savoiardi biscuits in the coffee mix and put them in a layer. Then add the cream mix. You can make a single layer, or two layers or even three, depending on how high you want it or how deep your container is. 5. Chill the tiramisu for at least two hours uncovered.
Then cover it and chill for another few hours. 6. Sprinkle with cocoa powder just before serving.
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SWEETS T&F
Morning Coffee Slice SERVES
PREPARATION
8
30
PERSONS
MINUTES +4 HOURS OR MORE TO CHILL
YOU WILL NEED
2 packets morning coffee biscuits 4 shots Baileys 300ml strong espresso 400ml whipping cream 2 tablespoons sugar 150g melted chocolate TO DECORATE
grated chocolate Sliced seasonal figs
1. Line a loaf tin with cling
film and set itaside. 2. Before starting, make sure your melted chocolate has cooled down completely but has not begun to set. 3. Beat the cream and sugar until
lightly stiff. Fold in the melted chocolate and set the mixture aside. 4. Place a thin layer of chocolate cream at the bottom of the loaf tin. 5. Add a layer of biscuits, first soaking each one in the coffee mix. Then add a thin layer of cream. 6. Stack more coffee-soaked biscuits
on top of the cream layer and then add another cream layer. Repeat until you fill all the tin with soaked and cream coated biscuits. 7. Top with the remaining cream
and press it down to evenly distribute the cream and biscuits. 8. Cover the loaf tin with cling
film and place it in the fridge to set for about 4 hours. 9. Before serving, grate some chocolate
over the loaf and top it with sliced figs.
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T&F SWEETS
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SWEETS T&F
Chocolate Cheesecake with Raspberries and Cream To make this, you will need a 10” springform cake tin or two small ones. SERVES
PREPARATION
10
35
PERSONS
MINUTES +2 HOURS OR MORE TO CHILL
YOU WILL NEED
450g cream cheese • 250ml whipping cream 300ml crème fraîche • 4 tablespoons gelatin granules 6 tablespoons icing sugar • 200ml melted chocolate, cooled down 300g crushed digestive biscuits • 150g melted butter (salted) FOR THE TOPPING
whipping cream • raspberries
1. Mix the melted butter and digestive
4. Place the gelatin and water bowl in
biscuits until they are combined well, then transfer the mixture to the springform tin, pat it down, and then press and level it to form the base of the cheesecake. Place the tin in the fridge until needed.
a pot of water (bain-marie) and gently bring the pot to a simmer, stirring the gelatine until it dissolves properly.
2. In about 50 ml of water, sprinkle
the gelatine and set it aside to soak. 3. Beat the cream cheese, crème fraîche
and icing sugar until smooth. Add the melted chocolate and mix well. Beat the whipping cream and keep beating it until the mixture forms stiff peaks. Set the bowl aside
5. Slowly add the gelatine to
the cheesecake mixture, stirring as you pour it in. When the gelatine is incorporated, fold in the whipped cream. 6. Pour the cheesecake mix onto the
biscuit base in the springform tin. Tap it down to level it evenly and place it in the fridge to set for at least 2 hours. 7. To serve, take the cheesecake
out of the springform tin and decorate it with more whipped cream and fresh raspberries.
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T&F PROMOTION
Dorelanbed a story that Dorelanbed was founded in the late 1960s following an idea developed in a small garage-based workshop in Forlì, Italy. It is now the Italian bedding market leader renowned for guaranteed sleep quality and tradition. For over 50 years, Dorelanbed produced exclusive collections of mattresses, beds, sommiers, bases, pillows and a myriad of bedroom accessories, designed to guarantee maximum comfort and sleep quality for the entire family.
Mattresses With carefully selected raw materials and technologically advanced processes, Dorelanbed has developed a large range of mattresses ranging from memory foam to various spring systems, with enhanced ergonomics, greater comfort and improved breathability. At Dorelanbed Malta, the dedicated team is trained to primarily understand the individual client’s needs, focussing on what would lead to the client’s ultimate personal satisfaction, to identify the right variety of mattress for that particular client. The main line of thought always remains the client’s well-being, rest and support, without excluding the client’s personal views. Each mattress and pillow range is unique and so is each individual’s taste, so informed decisions are essential to ensuring the best choice for an individual client.
Avant-garde research and innovation in the variety of materials available, combined with incredibly advanced technological processes certified by international bodies, is what renders Dorelanbed’s product range unique. The objective of each phase of Dorelanbed’s production line is to offer holistic well-being and outstanding comfort.
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PROMOTION T&F
t talks about ideas and people
Throughout September and October 2019, Dorelanbed Malta is offering an exceptional 50% discount on the actual Storage System added to a bed order. The Comfort Storage System maximises space easily and safely. Through an individual mechanism that allows the bed to lift upwards, a single movement is all it takes to access the storage space. The single vertical lifting system allows easy access to storage while the slatted frame provides stable support for the mattress. The Pratik Storage System enhances easy bed-making and access to storage.With this type of Storage System, the bed frame lifts horizontally upwards, keeping the full bedding impeccably tidy. The slatted frame is fixed with tension adjusters, allowing the slats to be changed from a firmer to a softer setting, according to one’s personal needs. Sleep well to live better. When investing in the product offering of Dorelanbed, the only sleep problem you will encounter, is over sleeping.
Beds and Storage Systems Comfort, elegance and exceptional quality come together in Dorelanbed’s collection of beds, each of which is designed to furnish the most intimate space in one’s home, enriching the sleeping environment with a touch of class.
Dorelanbed, Triq L-Imdina, Central Business District, Birkirkara is open from Monday to Friday between 10:00hrs and 13:00hrs and from 15:00hrs until 19:00hrs and on Saturday from 09:00hrs until 13:00hrs.
Follow Dorelanbed Malta on Facebook or visit www.dorelanbed.it for more information.
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T&F ARCHITECTURE
The building's form was inspired primarily by some of the 1960s residential architecture which marks the area.
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ARCHITECTURE T&F
ThreePLUSone
PREMJU EMANUELE LUIGI GALIZIA 2019 winner Housing Project Award President’s Award special commendation
Curved corners are an elegant solution for the corner site, softening its angularity.
Project: Threeplusone Architecture: Valentino Architects Location: Balzan, MALTA Structural Design: Perit Ivan Muscat Photography: Alex Attard, Julian Vassallo Text: Ann Dingli
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R
q The stark white exterior and deeply recessed windows and terraces echo the 1930s Bauhaus buildings in Tel Aviv's White City area.
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p Shutters protect the southfacing windows from direct sunlight. The recessed windows and terrace doors are shaded naturally by the floors above.
eplacing a dilapidated single-storey dwelling on a historic thoroughfare through two of Malta’s most beloved villages, Threeplusone demonstrates a novel and context-driven approach to fulfilling formulaic planning parameters. Conceived as a place for comfortable, contemporary living, this building prioritises light, space and functionality while giving back stylistically to its inherited street-scape. Threeplusone resists development box-ticking solutions and instead returns to the notion of working in harmony with contextual drivers – specifically, the untiring light and temperature of the Mediterranean, as well as the characteristics of the building’s immediate urban surroundings. The existence of a Modernist corner house across the road from the site became a constant point of reference, prompting a design that – albeit larger in scale – echoes the elegance of massing, volume and proportion of its architectural companion. Aside from giving the building its contemporary identity, Threeplusone’s façade radiates thermal efficiency, being rendered entirely in a silicato finish that reflects the beating rays of sun and recalls the tradition of bleach-white coastal architecture. The façade is stripped of decoration save for its large openable sliding apertures and deeply recessed terraces that linearly punctuate the upper levels. The spacious terraces provide coveted shaded outdoor space and allow light to cascade into the southfacing living areas at the front of the building. The apertures once again work in dialogue with the corner house across the street, framing direct views of its distinct facade. The fenestration on Threeplusone’s lower two floors, as well as the design for concealed shading devices on the building’s corner glass, are also a direct influence from the neighbouring house.
T&F ARCHITECTURE
I
nside, the building works both to maximise usable space and to achieve continuity between the indoor and outdoor areas. With the living spaces drawn towards the terraces, the bedrooms and utility rooms fan out toward a rear corner courtyard that draws in natural light and facilitates ventilation. Each floor plan reflects the prevailing needs of present-day, urbane homeowners. Every flat includes a spacious entrance hall, washroom and concealed drying terrace, while all bedrooms benefit from their own adjoining bathroom. Built using thermablock and reinforced concrete, the building’s distinct curved projections work in concert with the articulation of the street, bending subtly and seemingly instinctively as they curl along the corner site. The projections serve to maximise the size of the living spaces inside, while also providing valuable shading to the building’s lower levels. At street level, the perimeter of the building is lined with trees, elevating the street’s visual qualities and lending a sense of privacy to the office space tucked within the semi-basement level below. This level emerges, in part, as a “ground floor” due to the sloping nature of the street. Threeplusone prioritises rationality, simplicity of form, and understated luxury. It is a modest manifesto that communicates a new design language driven by sensitivity, elegance, and utility. Its intention is to humbly introduce an exemplar approach to designing small-scale residential architecture in a Maltese context – an advocate for architecture that is considerate yet unmistakably confident. n
t A 3-metre deep garden of Etna Fire bushes, olive trees and shrubs lines the building, creating a transition zone between the street and the entry. The planter is tanked with fibreglass and drains out of the building through the basement.
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q Deep balconies offer outdoor space and shade. The solar glass, thermal efficient apertures, and steel railings are by Servgroup.
T&F ARCHITECTURE
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ARCHITECTURE T&F
LimberLATTICE
PREMJU EMANUELE LUIGI GALIZIA 2019 winner Quality Architecture Award
Location: Lija, Malta Design: MJMDA Matthew James Mercieca Design Architects Photography: Peter M. Mercieca
The design of the multi-level office building is based on the concept of the workplace as a cloud, a space where people are variously required to focus and collaborate, and where people need to be led and motivated.
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T&F ARCHITECTURE
The designers turned the building’s two bounding planes into surfaces for inspiration: art, nature, light, and leadership.
t Clear glass panels line the bridge which connects the main entrance to the inner lobby area. q The building’s south-facing facade is designed to allow natural light in all year round but direct sunshine only in winter. Bonnici Bros carried out the preparatory excavation work on the site. G P Borg did the construction works, installed the underground services, and cast the floor and roof screeds.
W
hen a group of people collaborate, their impact is greater than the sum of what is achieved by individual effort. In the designers’ view, the space in which people work should inspire them and encourage aspiration to the higher purpose of collaborative effort. In the designers’ view, an office building guides the visitor and worker, drawing them inwards and inspiring them before it encourages them to focus and stimulates them to collaborate.
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Project: NuBis Centre. Material: Calacatta Retro Venato Marble.
Surfacing the most beautiful spaces Marble | Quartz | Engineered Stone | Granite | Patterned Tiles | Quartzite | Ceramic | Engineered Wood Halmann Vella Ltd, The Factory, Mosta Road, Lija. LJA 9016. Malta T: (+356) 21 433 636 E: info@halmannvella.com
www.halmannvella.com
T&F ARCHITECTURE
I
n the realised work of architecture stemming from the client’s brief, the structural design is integrated with the architecture and interiors and with the design of the building’s services and environmental efficiency. Strung between two large planes to the left and right of the site, the building was conceived as a grid which optimises each of the building’s aspects. The grid stretches between the two opposing planes, creating spaces and volumes that inspire the greatness and confidence required of the people who work there. The Limber Lattice design motif defines the ceiling of the lift cabin.
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SHAW CONTRACTORS LTD ARE PROUD TO HAVE BEEN ENTRUSTED WITH THE GYPSUM, INSULATION, PLASTERING AND PAINTING, AS WELL AS LAYING OF CERAMIC TILES, RAISED FLOORING, AND MICRO CEMENT FINISHING AT LIMBER LATTICE, LIJA.
SHAW CONTRACTORS LTD. SPECIALISED IN THE FOLLOWING FIELDS: 路 GYPSUM WORKS 路 EXTERNAL AND INTERNAL PLASTERING, AND INSULATION 路 LIQUID MEMBRANE INCLUDING NEGATIVE 路 TILING WORKS AND RAISED FLOORING SHAW Contractors Ltd. B4, Midland Micro Enterprise Park, Burmarrad Road, Naxxar, Malta. T + 356 2138 4948, M + 356 9949 8507 E shawcontractors@gmail.com
T&F ARCHITECTURE
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ARCHITECTURE T&F
T
he functional sculpture at the conceptual heart of the latticework derives from the pharaoh hound which, to the building’s owners, is a symbol synonymous with the nature of the business.
The transition from outdoor to indoor is through a light well over a glass bridge leading to the lobby. Tower Group Ltd supplied the bridge and the building’s aluminium apertures and internal partitioning, the front facade structure and louvres, and the glass facade at the back. Halmann Vella sourced, designed, fabricated and installed the Calacatta Retro Venato marble flooring and cladding.
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p The recreational space on the lower level is lit through a sunken yard at the front of the building. Shaw Contractors Ltd. did the plastering, insulation and paint works, installed the gypsum soffits and partitions, and laid the micro-cement flooring with material supplied by Vella Falzon, who also supplied the building’s sanitaryware and bathroom accessories. u A bridge across the three-storey light well connects the entrance to the main area.
T
he pharaoh hound metaphor was interpreted and developed in actual terms into agile forms and volumes that illuminate, seat, secure, receive, direct, transport and inspire at the core of the entrance void. The forms are subtle, but are ever present and powerful. n
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ARCHITECTURE T&F
T
raversing the grid, users find their way to their functional workspaces. As they sit there, “they can gaze at the exterior for a reminder of the natural world whence they came, but also look for the symbolic psychological part of where they want to go,� the designers say.
u Contrasting elements define the interior design. Plants of differing heights highlight the interconnecting levels.
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p A secondary entrance on the lower level leads to the heart of the building through a meeting area. Elektra supplied the building’s light fittings, the intelligent lighting and building automation control system, and a series of slim, recessed LED profiles with trimless installation.
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T
o achieve this end, the designers turned the building’s two bounding planes into surfaces for inspiration: art, nature, light, and leadership. All four elements surround the people who work there. As they move between work and rest, they can reverse their focus by moving downwards to a lower level or to the back of the building. Traversing the grid in the opposite direction encourages relaxation, before it’s time to spring back into action, creating a sustainable beneficial loop.
The functional sculpture at the conceptual heart of the latticework derives from the pharaoh hound
URBAN
T&F REDESIGN
TRANSFORMATION
Project Aster House Location Sliema Architects MODEL www.model.mt Team Alan Galea, Samuel Bonello, Francesca Scicluna, Nils Feldmann (Feldmann Architects), Susan Butler Photography Espais Roca Project Year 2019
This once-derelict Sliema townhouse has been successfully updated and adapted to contemporary living. 102
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REDESIGN T&F
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T&F REDESIGN
The intervention proposed was to create an “upside down” house, adding a third level to the property and inverting the usual distribution of internal space typical of Sliema townhouses.
S
liema town houses each have particular elements which give the relatively new town an appearance of richly varied architecture, despite the ravages of overdevelopment. Aster House is a prime example of such particularity with its Art Deco-inspired architectural elements which differ from those of the other houses in its immediate surroundings. It is located in one of the older parts of Sliema, in a street of houses dating back to the 19th century. The building’s footprint is typical of the traditional construction of this period of growth in Sliema, which saw long and narrow townhouses form the streetscapes that are visible today.
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u The backyard now leads off one of the bedrooms. The stained glass panel doors are typical of the period in which the house was built. The traditional tiles are new. q The house is flooded with natural light through a new skylight and large openings at either end of each level.
T&F REDESIGN
H
aving been left vacant for several years, the house had deteriorated and needed to have new life breathed into it. The brief entrusted to MODEL was both aesthetic and practical. The house owners wanted to enhance the beauty of its architecture and to make the house environmentally friendly, including technology which allows the occupier to manipulate the home’s internal climate with maximum comfort. The planning and detailing took approximately 5 months and the works took a further 11 months to complete. The intervention proposed by MODEL was to create an “upside down” house, adding a third level to the property and inverting the usual distribution of internal space typical of Sliema townhouses. Schranz Ltd. handled all the construction works including the opening up of the existing roof to create a connection to the new level which they also constructed, and the structural alterations on the two existing levels. The new, uppermost level now accommodates the living areas, including a sundeck and indoor and outdoor dining areas, while the bedrooms are on the first two levels of the house. The advantage of this deliberate shift of layering became clear during the design process once the light levels throughout the property were linked to the way this house would be used.
p Apertures are designed to let in natural light and
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p The distribution of internal space is inverted. The living areas are now on the upper level while the first two levels are reserved for the bedrooms.
REDESIGN T&F
The environmentallyfriendly design makes use of a natural resource and reduces wasteful water consumption.
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t Traditional elements of the interior were retained. Patterned tiles still line the floors, though these are newly installed rather than restored. The windows with their stained glass panels have not been replaced.
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he designers took an environmentally sustainable approach when planning the project. Solar energy, daylight, water collection and re-use, and acoustics were all designed to maximum benefit. The house responds to its environment, enabling the user to enjoy the flexibility of an adaptive, controlled internal space. The house’s orientation is North-South, and its cross ventilation is regulated through the now large opening at each end of the property. Natural light enters through the same openings on each level, as well as through a new skylight over the new staircase and through the large openings in the central courtyard.
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t The staircase up to the new level of the house is framed in glass, distinguishing between the old and the new and maximising the amount of light filtering down to the lower levels.
T&F REDESIGN
The house owners wanted to enhance the beauty of its architecture and to make the house environmentally friendly.
p Although the house appears to be of traditional design, contemporary elements have been introduced such as underfloor heating and automated internal climate control.
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ainwater collected from the roof levels is pumped into a water storage tank strategically located in the centre of the house from where it runs through the underfloor heating, water cisterns and irrigation systems throughout the property. The environmentally-friendly design makes use of a natural resource and reduces wasteful water consumption. The technology introduced into the property takes on a prominent technical role in this new architectural language. The additions allow the regulation of the natural moisture, temperature, light levels and acoustics of the house. The house interior automatically responds to the external environment through deliberately located sensors which communicate with the intelligent make up of the heating, cooling and solar control systems, adapting the internal environment to suit the end user. n
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q An outdoor staircase on the uppermost levels leads up to a sundeck with views over the rooftops. Rainwater from the roof level is collected in an underground tank and used in the underfloor heating, water cisterns and irrigation systems.
T&F TRANSFORMATION
GOZOGETAW It takes a special sort of dedication and endless reserves of patience to turn a virtual ruin into a welcoming home. It helps to have vision, an optimistic outlook and the ability to find the right resources when you need them. Fortunately, the owners of this house in Gozo have all of that in spades. Design: CVC Architects • Photography: Mark Sapienza
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TRANSFORMATION T&F
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The downstairs extension was built using repurposed stone salvaged from a demolished building and now serves as a living and dining area. The floor is paved in hardwearing and resilient Travertine. The trackmounted lighting is LED
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he home on a hilltop in Qala sits at the end of a narrow alley within a circle of buildings that back onto fields. The rural setting is what attracted the owners to the site, but the original building, though inhabited, was run down and needed a total redesign and refit. The two rooms built in traditional masonry, stacked one on the other, were connected by an outdoor staircase and backed by a raised field which was disused and overgrown. The owners wanted to redesign the house as a family home from home, where they could stay for long stretches of time. Their design brief was simple – the house had to be eco-friendly, reusing or upcycling anything that had to be moved or removed, well-lit, naturally ventilated, and needed to include 3 bedrooms with their own bathrooms, a plunge pool and a garden. And the building had to look good and feel right even without furniture.
p The kitchen area is in the oldest part of the house. Openings cut through the double side wall bring in natural light and visually connect the kitchen to the living area in the new extension. The floor is paved with hardstone and the internal walls were treated with a paint wash, giving the space a rustic look.
q The windows cut into the thick walls let light into the interior and visually connect the two sides of the house. As a bonus, the deep windows double up as extra shelving space for the kitchen.
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ccess through the narrow alley limited the use of large machinery so most of the work involved manual handling and traditional building techniques. A series of serendipitous finds helped them meet their own eco-friendly brief – the stone used in the extension came from a house which was being demolished in their home town. The “new” front door in panelled wood topped with a peacock tail window was sourced online and turned out to be from a house in the immediate neighbourhood.
The work in progress: a gap was left between the new extension and the neighbouring building to draw light into the interior.
The warm texture of stone defines the house and garden. The sitting nook at the back is set on a gravel bed and surrounded by rubble walls. The raised planters are capped with repurposed stone stairs found in the house.
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Mill Street, Qormi 2546 3000 elektra.com.mt info@elektra.com.mt
deltalight.com
T&F TRANSFORMATION
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o create the additional space they needed, an extension needed to be built. Given the narrowness of the site, this would have made the house dark and cavernous so the owners’ architects proposed a receded extension, set back from the existing party wall and vernacular building. This introduced a north-facing light-well which draws natural light into the interior, acts as a vertical link connecting the two sides of the house and offers a visual connection between all internal levels and the pool and garden at the back. The extension is built in old “tal-qawwi” stone. Its weathered look, unusual for an interior, complements the party wall in the light-well on the opposite side of the house. The use of exposed old stone walls and hardstone flooring in the living area gives the space an established feel. The large door leading to the yard can be folded back entirely, dissolving the boundary between the indoor and outdoor spaces. When the air is still, ceiling fans provide a constant breeze, keeping the interior cool and helping to prevent flies and mosquitoes – a perennial nuisance in a rural area – from infesting the house.
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p The living area is filled with texture ranging from the rough surface of the repurposed stone wall to the smooth finish of the Travertine floors.
q The house is furnished with an eclectic collection of new purchases, dealer shop finds, and pieces gifted by family members or collected by the owners over the years.
5412 7556 7556 7890 7890 3456 3456 5412 5125
VALID DATES
LEE M CARDHOLDER
Credit
5412 7556 7556 7890 7890 3456 3456 5412 5123
VALID THRU
06/18 06/18
LEE M CARDHOLDER
Debit
5412 7556 7556 7890 7890 3456 3456 5412
5412
VALID 06/18 THRU 06/18
LEE M CARDHOLDER
EXPIRES END
4000 1234 1234 5678 5678 9010 9010 4000 4000 GOOD THRU
12-16 12-16
CARDHOLDER NAME
4000 1234 1234 5678 5678 9010 9010 4000 4000 GOOD THRU
CARDHOLDER NAME
Lombard Bank Malta p.l.c. ... always in your interest! www.lombardmalta.com
Head Office: 67 Republic Street Valletta Malta
T&F TRANSFORMATION
p Custom-made metal stairs slot between the walls of the new extension and the old building, enabling access to a bedroom on the upper floor. The stair treads were deliberately left unfinished, giving them an industrial look.
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he large apertures are recessed, shading them from the hot sun while allowing natural light to flood in. The combination of plentiful daylight and LED-based electrical lighting minimises energy consumption, one of the elements of the owners’ design brief.
TRANSFORMATION T&F
A wood-burning stove was installed in the corner of the living area for occasional use, but the heating system is solar-powered. The newer walls were built in double-thickness, mimicking the traditional masonry of the original building, helping to insuate the interior against heat gain in summer and heat loss in winter. The double-glazed apertures in PVC are easier to care for than traditional wood-framed single-glazing and help to maintain a stable internal climate.
The soil from the first part of the raised field was partly reused in the raised garden and the excess transferred to the neighbour’s field, and a plunge pool was cut into the rock bed. The differing levels break up the long site, adding visual interest. New planters curve around a “secret nook” which is pleasant for sitting in. Their retaining walls are capped with repurposed stone salvaged from the house’s old staircase.
p The plunge pool was cut into the solid rock found when the backfill was removed from the site. To the right, a timberboard concrete wall was built to contain the soil bed in the neighbouring garden. The pool deck area is paved in Travertine.
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he new design respects the original fabric of the building and the use of recycled stone, the construction of a new reservoir to collect rain water and the careful orientation of the light-well to allow daylight deep into the building all contribute to creating a house that is sustainable as well as functional.
q Design in rural areas includes features which are unknown in urban spaces, like the need for barriers to keep out grazing sheep and goats.
p Large apertures and full height glazing bring in natural light while the deep recesses shade the interior from the hot sun. Ceiling fans in all rooms help to keep the house cool, minimising the need for air conditioning. t The curved planting beds wrap around the sitting area giving it the feel of a "secret garden". Traditional craftsmen built the rubble walls on the right and at the back by hand.
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T&F DESIGN
p The SOIRÉE by Delta Light takes its inspiration from many angles. From the play of light and shadow in architecture, to natural light effects, the shape of everyday objects and sculptural art. The result is a nest of light, made of circles or rectangles, both structural and decorative, generating a seductive luminous effect. Even when not turned on, they bring texture and character to rooms, defining different areas with small and large contemporary pendants. Available at Elektra Ltd, Qormi. p Comfort zone! This is not just any armchair. It is your armchair. With the choice of details, you can show off your personality and reveal your character. Your armchair can be anything from a faithful servant to a colourful solitaire that turns your living room into a showroom – each day. More than 500 fabrics, sheepskins and leathers, various types of wood finishes, various types of legs, bases and heights. Timeout - the armchair that conforms to your wishes! Available exclusively from Satariano, Valley Road, B’Kara. t Anker Soundcore Flare drops powerful 360 degrees sound through dual back-toback drivers and thumping bass radiators. With seamless all around sound, you get a fully immersive audio experience that electrifies every square inch of any space. Soundcore flare is enhanced with impermeable IPX7 casing, and effortlessly withstands spills, rain, and even complete submersion in water. Give your party a serious splash of sound and colour. Available in black or blue from A&A Mizzi Ltd for the price of €79.95.
p The BREEZE ceiling fan forms part of the latest collection, featuring a body in matte black steel and blades in wood finish ABS. This model features a sleek design, together with an integrated LED light in warm white and can be controlled via remote control on 5 different speed settings. Available from ESS Ltd, Mriehel. t Grande by Marazzi. The classic elegance of marble translated into stoneware: glossy and matt surfaces combined with an irresistible contemporary appeal accentuated by the size of the slabs, including the new 6 mm-thick 160x320 cm and 12 mm-thick 162x324 cm sizes. With Grande Marble Look, the marble effect becomes even more seductive, paving the way for projects that are highly ambitious in terms of size and aspirations, as well as to endless tailor-made solutions. Available on display at Satariano, Valley Road, B’Kara.
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GET ON-THE-GO RECIPES WITH MAGGI
With today’s hectic lifestyle, we all dream of preparing our meals more leisurely and effortlessly. But everyday life is a much more chaotic affair, and eating has become much more of a grab-and-go situation. Fret not - this quick and easy recipe from Maggi is a perfect solution for those who are constantly on the move. Why settle for takeout or less flavour when you can have tasty Chicken Paprika with little effort?
So Juicy Chicken Paprika • Prep time: 5 mins • Cook time: 55-60 mins • Serves 4 Ingredients 8 chicken drumsticks, defrosted 1 red bell pepper, roasted 1/2 onion, roasted 1 corn on the cob, grilled & divided in half 15g fresh basil 1 pack Maggi® So Juicy ® Paprika Chicken
Method 1. Preheat your oven to 180°C (160°C for fan oven), Gas Mark 4. 2. Remove & unfold the Maggi cooking bag from the packaging, ensuring to keep the red tie for later use. Place the drumsticks in the bag and add the seasoning from its sachet. Close the bag with the red tie and mix together the ingredients by gently turning the bag. 3. Place the bag on its side into a large ovenproof dish, taking extra caution not to pierce the bag, place on bottom shelf and cook until done, approx. for 55-60 minutes. Allow to stand for 2-3 minutes before serving. 4. Approximately 20 minutes before chicken is done cooking, prepare the vegetables. 5. Plate & serve.
T&F TRENDS
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5 1. From Black to White. An incredibly unique wine made from a mutation of Rondinella (normally a red grape) that became a white grape in the vineyards. The minimalist label plays on the black/white contrast, alluding to the natural genetic mutation undergone by the Rondinella grape. Blended with Kerner, Traminer, Cros Manzoni, this wine displays pretty floral notes and high-toned spice to go along with the peachy tones and mineral nuance. Abraham’s Supplies Co. Ltd. Tel: +356 2156 3231 viniecapricci@abrahams.com.mt www.viniecapricci.com
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2. Mighty Nuts’ new range of a variety of nuts and snacks, from the healthiest ones to the ones that keep you craving for more. Apart from the traditional range of nuts, Mighty Nuts boasts an increasing range of mixes. Supplied in 3 different packets, Hot n’Spicy, Fruit & Nut, and Snacks contain special recipe mixes that will satisfy everyone’s taste buds. Collect packaging, get rewarded with great gifts and Mighty Nuts will sort out the recycling for you. www.fb.com/lambbrand
3. The Phoenix Restaurant is a little piece of history nestled snugly into the grandeur of The Phoenicia. An unusually large room filled with natural light and adorned with rich fabrics, enhanced by patterned walls, colourful carpets and fine chandeliers. The quality of design is reflected in the culinary feats of the award-winning brigade of chefs. Here you can enjoy the fresh taste of the Mediterranean with the carefully crafted menu using only the finest ingredients. Open for lunch and dinner, The Phoenix Restaurant eagerly awaits your visit. The Phoenicia Malta. Tel: 2122 5241, dine@phoeniciamalta.com, www.phoeniciamalta.com
4. Made exclusively from Malta-grown Vermentino grapes, Meridiana’s ASTARTE DOK has a straw yellow colour and is characterised by intense aromas of tropical and citrus fruit with hints of flowers. The palate is fresh with a pleasantly acidic finish. Distributed by S Rausi Trading Ltd, Gzira Tel: 2133 0447, 7909 3197, info@srausi.com, www.meridiana.com.mt 5. SKIPPY tasty, creamy peanut butter adds more taste to just about anything. Also available: SKIPPY SUPER CHUNK Peanut Butter. Every jar is blended with real peanut pieces to enjoy the full flavour of SKIPPY Peanut Butter with added crunch. Attard & Co. Food Ltd, Tel: 2123 7555, Facebook.com/attardcofood
TRENDS T&F
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6. Monteoro - Vermentino di Gallura Superiore DOCG. Sella&Mosca cultivates its grapes on the slopes of the south side of Mount Limbara, whose soils are characterised by broken-down granitic rubble and a hot climate, but with excellent temperature variations during the summer. In the cellar, the grapes are soft-pressed, cold-macerated lightly and then left to ferment for an extended period. The resulting white wine is extraordinarily expressive, fresh and delicious. Trade enquiries: Facebook.com/attardcowines, www.attardcowines.com
7. Pascual Bifrutas complements your diet through its unique texture and its mixture of fruits. Bifrutas milk and juice is a functional drink made from authentic Pascual skimmed milk and fruit, providing an unmistakable flavour and a natural source of vitamins A, C and E. The Pascual Bifrutas range includes Tropical, Mediterraneo, Pacifico and Ibiza, available in 1L, 330ml or 200ml. facebook.com/PascualMalta
8. Bringing your events alive at Urban Valley Resort & Spa. Our emblematic building is the perfect balance of beauty and versatility. The three-storey building features a foyer, reception area and a multipurpose conference room on the ground floor and a large conference room seating 210 delegates on the first floor. Create functional spaces with our five breakout rooms and adjustable soundproof panels and raised flooring. State of the art audio visual, high-speed internet connection and on-site parking provide a complete hassle-free experience. Opening October 2019. Urban Valley Resort & Spa, Triq Wied Ghollieqa, Kappara. Urbanvalleyresort.com
9. A truly unique Maltese culinary experience. Situated in the heart of Mosta, Ta’ Marija Restaurant encourages you to savour creative Maltese and Mediterranean cuisine. With more than 50 years of experience, the family-run restaurant offers an elegant, warm and informal ambience with a quality, friendly service. Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner, with Maltese themed nights every Wednesday and Friday (complete with folk dancers, mandolins and guitars) and an all-inclusive buffet extravaganza on Saturday nights and Sunday lunches for only €30, with regular live shows and entertainment. Find out more at www.tamarija.com For bookings call on 21434444.
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T&F EXHIBITION
t Cássio Vasconcellos Series A Picturesque Voyage Through Brazil, #37, 2015 Courtesy of the artist and Galeria Nara Roesler, São Paulo © Cássio Vasconcellos
TREES
q Luiz Zerbini Lago Quadrado, 2010 Romero Pimenta Collection, Nova Lima © Luiz Zerbini Photo © Eduardo Ortega
“I wonder if our initial relationship to trees is aesthetic rather than scientific. When we come across a beautiful tree, it is an extraordinary thing.” FRANCIS HALLÉ, BOTANIST Bringing together a community of artists, botanists, and philosophers, the Fondation Cartier pour l’art contemporain echoes the latest scientific research on trees. Organised around several large ensembles of works, the exhibition Trees gives voice to numerous figures who, through their aesthetic or scientific journey, have developed a strong, intimate link with trees, revealing their beauty and biological wealth. T he exhibition Trees restores the tree to the place from which it had been stripped by anthropocentrism. It brings together the testimonies, both artistic and scientific, of those capable of looking at the vegetal world with wonder and who show us, to quote philosopher Emanuele Coccia: “ There is nothing purely human, the vegetal exists in all that is human, and the tree is at the origin of all experience.”
Trees are among the oldest living organisms on the planet. The first known fossil forest dates from 385 million years ago and the plant world makes up 82.5% of the terrestrial biomass. In comparison, humans are only 300,000 years old and represent a mere 0.01% of this organic mass.
p Cesare Leonardi and Franca Stagi Fraxinus excelsior L , original scale drawing 1/100, 1963-1982 Archive of Architect Cesare Leonardi, Modène © Cesare Leonardi and Franca Stagi t Miguel Rio Branco Untitled Tokyo, 2008 Artist’s collection © Miguel Rio Branco
Trees is open at the Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain in Paris until 10 November 2019 Curators: Bruce Albert, Hervé Chandès, Isabelle Gaudefroy Associate Curators: Hélène Kelmachter, Marie Perennes Project Officer: Juliette Lecorne
The next issue of will be out on 6th October 2019 with The Malta Independent on Sunday.
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For advertising, contact Sean Ellul on +356 7921 0705 or 21 345 888 ext 123 sellul@independent.com.mt
Adriana Varejão Cadernos de viagem : Yãkoana, 2003 Collection of the Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain, Paris © Adriana Varejão