Midhurst Magazine. Issue 30, Autumn, November 2019
MIDHURST MAGAZINE Issue 30 Autumn 2019
Contents Midhurst Society 2 Editorial: On the Path to Satisfaction 3 Shipwreck Hunting: On Rumbolds Hill? 4 Archery in Midhurst: Centuries of Art and Skill 7 Ode to: Terence Bernard Guy Hanlon 10 Memories of H.G. Wells: Tea and Cake 11 The Mid-Sussex and Midhurst Junction Railway 13 Where are These? Two Bell Towers 14 Cocking’s Community Hub: Now on the Horizon 15 So, You Think You Know the Area: Crossword Puzzle 17 Walking with Richard: Chithurst and Hammer Wood 18 Park House Hotel: Resurrection 20 Meet the Committee: Peter Shaw 22 Midhurst Central: Problem Traffic! 23 Bridget's Midhurst Meanderings 25 Grandma Came to Stay: Accessing Literacy 26 Campaigns, Planning and Projects 27 From the Chair 29 Public Talks 31 Answers to Puzzles 32 Print version: At talks and other events: £3 Posted within UK: £4, including P&P On-line print ordering: £4, plus p&p. (Use search term The Midhurst Magazine to find sellers.) E-book version: Online download: £2 (Use search term The Midhurst Magazine to find sellers.) Midhurst Magazine Issue: 30. October 2019. Published by the Midhurst Society, West Sussex, UK. ISBN 978-1-78972-202-4 Copyright: The Midhurst Society Print on Demand: IngramSpark - e-book version also available
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Midhurst Magazine. Issue 30, Autumn, November 2019
THE MIDHURST SOCIETY Formed in 1960, The Midhurst Society aims to preserve, protect and improve local features of historic or community interest. It promotes high standards of planning and architecture. In liaison with public authorities, it seeks to enhance the local environment and amenities. Above all, we strive to make Midhurst a better place to live, work and enjoy.
President: The Viscountess Cowdray
Chair: Mike Balmforth www.midhurstsociety.org.uk Details of membership can be found at https://www.midhurstsociety.org.uk/about/how-to-join/5/ or by attending a Society Talk The Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of The Midhurst Society. Historical facts given may not have been verified.
Print copies of this magazine are available to members; at the Midhurst Museum, Knockhundred Row; and at newsagents in Midhurst. It can also be purchased online as print, and e-book versions. Further information is given at www.midhurstsociety.org.uk Enquiries: MidhurstSociety@bigger-picture.co.uk
Front Cover. Shipwreck hunting tools: by Dermot Blackburn in Mearns and White (2001) Rear Cover. Artist’s impression of HMAS Wreck by Thomas Schmid. 3Dhistory.de. for The Search for the Sydney. David Mearns, Harper Collins (2009)
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Midhurst Magazine. Issue 30, Autumn, November 2019
Editorial: On the Path to Satisfaction Still under development We are up and running. The Magazine seems to be to most people’s liking. In its own small way, it is clearly a success. Thank you all. Now we need readers’ constructive comments on how to improve it. Fill our inbox!
The Midhurst town traffic issue is highlighted by Steve Morely. Drivers do need to stick to the rules; it would make life easier. And who would have thought a model of a, once existing, Midhurst railway station has been made here: by Michael de Jong-Smith, our Membership Secretary. Read all about that model. By the way, he is being kept busy with the increasing number of new members.
Being now also available as an e-book, and as a hard copy sold on line through Print on Demand POD, anyone can get back issues from Issue 29 on and also send hard copies to others.
We welcome the emergence of another budding children’s book writer - Sharon Watters has made it to print.
Thanks to many enthusiastic contributors we, again, can fill the issue with exciting and remarkable stories. It never ceases to amaze us, that from the relatively small area of the Midhurst District, there are of so many high contributing activities.
For those who love to walk and make the best of the diminishing daylight we provide another walk by Richard Williamson.
To those who have yet untold local stories that they would like to publish and need some help in that, do feel free to contact us.
For the days stuck indoors ahead, the crossword will prove to be a challenge for many.
Sometimes world beating things are happening right under our nose. In this issue we tell of Blue Water Recoveries on Rumbold’s Hill. You just must-read David Mearns’ amazing activities in shipwreck discovery.
We cannot yet provide much detail about the Philip Jackson gift; of his work Dante. It takes time to go through the various approval processes. But there will be lots to say soon. Next year is the 60th Anniversary of the Midhurst Society. It will not be just let pass! Contributions are sought for the special celebration Issue 31 we are planning.
A newish club that is fast gaining interest locally is the Leaping Hart Archery Club – another exciting thing to do here, and to read about in this Issue. We are not an advertising medium but do welcome a good news stories, like the rebirth of the Blue Bell pub in Cocking. Bridget Howard provides some less wellknown facts about the town bells that ring regularly.
Peter Sydenham
Harvey Tordoff Co-Editors
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We read a lot about the association of H. G. Wells with Midhurst and Uppark. There are three blue plaques to him around town. But did you know there is a close familyfriend still living here with an ancestor that fed him cakes? To find out who that is, look for the Jenny Chevis article.
Good judgement comes from experience: but a lot of that comes from bad judgement.
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Midhurst Magazine. Issue 30, Autumn, November 2019
Shipwreck Hunting: On Rumbold’s Hill? David Mearns, 2010. “Staring at this image of Centuar’s bell, my smile says it all. I couldn’t believe how truly lucky we were to have found the bell with its name showing.”
An inconspicuous unmarked doorway. What goes on behind it? Be surprised! Right here in the heart of the South Downs is a small business finding important shipwrecks: Blue Water Recoveries Ltd.
‘I immediately knew what I wanted to do for the rest of my life.’ He joined a deep-scan team with top scientists on board a research vessel that was previously used to discover the Titanic wreck. At that time in 1966 David employed by Eastport International, whose business was retrieving US government assets lost at sea. His first job gave him essential supplementary experience.
US born, David Mearns OAM (Order of Australian Medal) M.Sc. was torn between a career dealing in antiques or going to university. Close-by Fairleigh Dickinson University FDU was his choice as the course included time on the Caribbean Island of St. Croix - where they had an underwater facility. He then went on to the University of Southern Florida, graduating with the MSc. in Marine Geology.
Whilst with Eastport he investigated the suspicious sinking of the MV Lucona. This was thought to be an insurance fraud in which a ship would sink with valuable cargo; that was actually not on-board. David was contracted to find the location and get visual evidence of how it sank, see Mearns (2017).
Luck set him on the path for which he is now so acclaimed; shipwreck hunting. He got experience with a side-scan sonar unit that was towed deep in the water behind the boat, forming images of the sea bottom. These send and receive, echo sound waves from objects as the scanner is towed through the water. Deep sea sonars can scan a width of the seabed as wide as 3 miles while working at depths of over 3 miles; tow cables then need to be around 6 miles long!
‘Boy’s toys’ kit needed for shipwreck hunting: Hanging is the ROV. On the deck is the sonar scanner.
A discovery team carries out the management and project direction tasks, contracting specialist companies to supply the tow vessel, side-scan sonar system and ROV.
Images are of little use to the general observer, but the trained eye can recognise wrecks.
Sonar image of TSS Athenia.
Two critical elements are needed to succeed – finding the right location and the project’s finance. David’s 2017 book, The Shipwreck Hunter, delves into many of the more famous projects in which he has been involved. He shares with readers the joys, and tribulations, of the evidence chase that leads to site location.
Knowledge of ship dimensions and shape, coupled with clever computer processing, raise the level of certainty that they have found the expected wreck. To confirm it, a Remotely Operated Vehicle ROV is then sent down to take verification photographs.
In 1995, the co-founder of the salvage company
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Midhurst Magazine. Issue 30, Autumn, November 2019 he worked with, was based in Petworth. David had lived in the US until then, coming to the UK to work and live. It's more important to be near airports, than the sea! He joined Blue Water Recoveries as its Director of Research and Survey. He liked the Midhurst area! Who doesn’t! He and Sarah, a Londoner, were married in the Lodsworth church. They have twin girls Alexandra and Isabella, and a son Samuel.
Hood sinking.
Where did she lie in the sea and what sank her? These needs could only be answered by finding her and studying the damage. These were quite impossible to answer until deep sea investigations became available, decades later.
David’s vital skill is his high rate of successful wreck location. That is largely a task by an expert having that divvy type intuition that gives a person an edge at recognising obscure points in the ‘needle in a hay stack’ study. It involves collecting facts on tides, currents and navigational information. Added to that are information in found in ship’s logs and reports, experiences of survivors and people who witnessed the sinking. These sources have differing levels of uncertainty so they are combined using maths theory to give a best-location estimate.
The whole of Britain felt this loss deeply: Bismark was now the most dangerous ship on the high seas. After days of niggling engagements, she was heading to occupied France for repairs. She was attacked by 16 obsolescent British Navy Fairey Swordfish, biplane, torpedo bombers. One torpedo disabled her rudder, forcing her to circle. British ships then attacked her to the point where her captain ordered abandon ship and scuttle her. She lost 2,131 crew; 115 survived.
His premises need not be large - but he does need lots of space to show off his many honours received! Much of the research is done right here in Midhurst using the Internet. The wreck site location of the TSS Athenia, sunk by German submarine U-30 on the first day of WW2, was carried out in his office on Rumbold’s Hill!
Bismark sinking.
Over the decades there are three sites for which David brought particular consolation to thousands of people needing closure on where their family members lost their lives.
That successful torpedo was dropped by Lt Cdr John Moffat RNVR, Officer in Charge of Flying at the Midhurst Flying Field (recently deceased) during WW2 - see Pons (2018).
The related Hood and Bismark story, Mearns and White (2001), was a key project. HMS Hood was a 1920 commissioned battlecruiser; the pride of the Royal Navy. By WW2 she was still a formidable gun ship that could send shells 18 miles. Its turbines could propel its massive weight of 48,000 tons, at 35mph. She went into engagement in the Battle of Denmark Strait in May 1941 with highest expectations.
The Bismark lay unvisited until 1989, when Robert Ballard located it. In 2001 David Mearns was contracted to find the Hood, and the Bismark again. He had already decided on the best location to search for the Hood; somewhere in a likely huge area of 840 square miles. Breakdowns, patience and adjustment of the best locations to try, eventually found the Hood on 24 July 2001. It had taken just 39 hrs since the scanner was launched to locate the Hood, sitting around 3km deep off the coast of Iceland.
On 24 May she was struck by several German shells. Some say it was a lucky high trajectory shell, from the German battleship Bismark, that entered the ship’s magazine down a funnel. Some say it was a torpedo that sank her. However, it happened, there was a massive explosion midship. She sank in 3 minutes giving no time for the crew to escape: 1,415 died with just 3 survivors. The sinking left two key issues needing resolution.
Sometime life brings up most unexpected coincidences. John Moffat crippled the Bismark after she had sunk the Hood. David Mearns found the Hood and the Bismark wrecks. Both had 5
Midhurst Magazine. Issue 30, Autumn, November 2019 work in locating and analysing the wrecks of H.M.A.S. Sydney and A.H.S. Centaur’
connections to Midhurst. Did they know each other? Apparently, not until Moffat flew down to Cowdray for a reunion meeting in recent years. Another famous wreck find of David is that of the HMAS Sydney 11, sunk in combat in 1941. Then 645 sailors were lost; without any survivors. The Sydney was on a routine return voyage to the west of Australia. The German raider ship HSK Komoran just happened to find the Sydney. Komoran was disguised as a Dutch merchant ship that would not be armed. In fact, she carried an arsenal of guns ranging up to 5.9 inch. The captain was able to sail his disguised Komoran to be just 900metres off of the Sydney. Suddenly she flew her German battle colours and fired broadsides: at least 100 shots were fired into the Sydney. A converted freighter had sunk a light cruiser! The Komoran was slightly damaged with an engine room fire so it was scuttled later in the day.
David at his special investiture of the OAM, presented, in London, by Australian Governor-General Quentin Bryce.
The problem for him now, is that he has a large bucket list of wrecks still to find. However, others are finding them and he has to cross them off. One still on his list is Shackleton's Endurance, crushed by Antarctic ice in 1915.
This disaster raised many questions. Was she lured so close by an illegal ruse? Where was the grave site? For over six decades, ‘controversy raged’: so many opinions existed of how she was sunk, and where she lay.
David said he arrived on this shipwreck discovery scene soon after very deep-sea methods moved out of their secret classification. He was just in time to ride the wave of the Golden Age of Shipwreck Hunting; but we can see really, it was his ability to work out how to make so many wins.
David’s interest began in 2002. In 2008 the effort was renewed. He led the Finding Sydney Foundation FSF team in locating, first the Komoran and then Sydney on 17 March 2008.
Whenever he gets home to Lodsworth he becomes the dutiful dad; school runs, kids sport, and all that goes with parenting. For recreation he relaxes by fishing, walking, rambling and gardening. [Midhurst Magazine’s Harvey Tordoff interviewed David. Peter Sydenham prepared this account. We appreciate permission to use David’s material here.] Further Exciting Reading: Mearns David L and White Rob. Hood and Bismark, Channel 4 Books, 2001. Mearns David. The Search for the Sydney. Harper Collins, 2009. Moffat, John, and Rossiter, Mike. I Sank the Bismark, Corgi, 2010. Mearns David L. The Shipwreck Hunter, Allen & Unwin, 2017. Pons, Tania, A Midhurst Flying Field, Selham Airfield Project, 2017.
Artist’s re-creation of the Sydney’s wreck. The tiny ROV is providing the light. Mearns (2009)
It was an exciting time for them to see the expected sonar image appear on the search ship’s screen. In November 2010 David, by then a British citizen, was awarded an honorary Order of Australia Medal OAM, ‘in recognition of his 6
Midhurst Magazine. Issue 30, Autumn, November 2019
Archery in Midhurst: Centuries of Art and Skill By Michael Chevis
Rather like his account in A Midhurst Lad, Ron Boxall (2003), I and friends spent many a happy summer in the woods around Easebourne making bows and arrows from the hazel, chestnut and holly, freely available to youngsters with vivid imaginations inspired by stories of Robin Hood and William Tell.
illustrated and written about in Egyptian, Persian, Greek and Roman literature. To give more power to the short bows, composite models using various materials were made by the Egyptians as early as 2800BC. These short bows were only around 3ft long and by medieval times, when the soldiers and knights began to wear armour, had little effect. It was at this time that the longbow and crossbow were developed. Although powerful, the crossbow took a long time to load. The longbow, which in the hands of an experienced archer could shoot up to 12 to 15 arrows a minute, became the bow of choice. Longbows were over twice the length of predecessors, had a draw weight of up to 160lbs and, by using arrows with specially developed metal points, could pierce chainmail, armour and even bring down the war horse.
The interest was rekindled again when I started, in 2014, the annual Medieval Midhurst, May Day fair. One of the events was archery, on St Ann’s Hill; many people said they wished there existed an archery club, locally. I tried the sport again, with a slightly more sophisticated bow; enjoyed it, and after a period of time trained with Archery GB to be awarded the Level 1 Instructor’s certificate.
The efficiency of the archer was of such paramount importance in the protection of the country that laws were passed - the first in 1252 - which decreed that all Englishmen between the ages of 12 to 60 years old should equip themselves with a bow and arrows. The power of the bow was so great that at the battle of Crecy in 1346 the French army was decimated by the English archers. It is estimated that the French lost over 2000 knights and soldiers with the English losing just 50. In 1363 King Edward III ordered all men to practice archery on Sundays and holidays.
Leaping Hart was formed in Jan 2017 and currently has a membership in the age range from 7 to 80yrs. Let’s take an overview into how important archery was in the history making of many civilisations whether as a means of aggression, defence or sport.
In 1415 English archers claimed an even greater victory over the French at Agincourt. Henry V succeeded his father earlier in 1415, setting off to France with 9000 archers and 2000 men at arms with the intention of demonstrating his superiority to the King of France by taking the port of Harfleur. By the end of this siege Henry had lost nearly a quarter of his army, mainly to disease. The advice was to return home but Henry decided to march to Calais and sail home from there. The massed French army of 34,000 squared up to the much smaller English force at the now infamous village of Agincourt, giving Henry no choice but to fight. Vastly outnumbered the English command was far superior to the lack of unified leadership on the French side.
Second only to wrestling, archery is regarded to be the oldest sport in the world. The exact date when humans started using bows and arrows is a matter for debate, but cave paintings featuring archers date back to the late Stone Age. The weapon was developed by many early civilisations around the world at various times; apart from Australia where the boomerang was king. Bows were fairly short to enable them to be used on horseback and from the back of chariots, as 7
Midhurst Magazine. Issue 30, Autumn, November 2019 The English set up position on the field so that the French could not attack from multiple fronts. They had to advance over a narrowing, very muddy, ploughed field towards the English. The French cavalry charged over the field but their horses were slowed down by the mud and the 6ft wooden stakes the English had set. They were now easy pickings for the archers who could shoot up to 15 arrows a minute. The French men at arms then advanced, having to negotiate the fallen horses and knights as well. They were wearing armour, slowing them down and tiring them quickly. Once the archers had loosed all of their arrows, the English advanced with sword and dagger and the archers used their mauls to dispatch or render the armoured knights unconscious. It was all over within three hours. The French had lost 10,000 men, mainly knights - up to 95% of the French nobility, according to some estimates. The English lost 400 men.
Hart Archery these traditional activities are still available to members and guests alike.
In clout, small cloth flags are set in the ground up to 180yds away. The aim is to drop the arrows as near to the flags as possible. In the olden days the flags were placed at varying intervals to help the archers judge the distances of advancing, or fleeing armies. Splitting the wand needed a great degree of accuracy and was practiced to give the archer
There is a local connection to the battle of Agincourt. In Trotton church is an outstanding monumental brass of Lord Camoys and his wife Elizabeth. Lord Camoys, who died in 1421 aged 65, was a distinguished soldier and courtier who commanded the left flank at Agincourt. Back to archery practice in England. Areas on the outskirts of villages and towns were set aside for the improvement of archery skills. They were commonly called 'butts’ and were up to 250yds long. These butts were usually made of turf covered mounds between 6ft to 20ft wide and 3ft to 10ft high, with targets on top. Coloured rings, radiating from the centre of the target, helped the archers measure their performance.
confidence in shooting arrows through the slits of the castle wall to neutralise the archers within. The wand is a target about 4in wide and 6ft high and set at distances up to 120yds away. With the advancement of firearms, archery gradually lost its importance on the battlefield. However, it was still popular as a sport, practiced by nobility and commoner alike. In 1591 Queen Elizabeth I visited Cowdray and during her fiveday stay hunted in the park. A contemporary report of the visit stated:
Sam St-Clair Ford
John Rhyder of The Woodcraft School, based in Midhurst, keeps the art of bow-making alive with bow making courses. Founder member, Sam St-Clair Ford, is shown here with a traditional long bow he made himself on a Woodcraft course. Yew has always been a favourite bow wood but ash, wych elm and holly were also used regularly, as they are today.
“On Munday, (August 17th 1591) at eight of the clock, her Highnes took horse with all her traine, and rode into the parke: where was a delicate browe prepared, under the which were her Highnesse musicians placed, and a crosse-bowe by a Nymph, with a sweet song, delivered to her to shoote at the deere, about thirtie in number, put into a paddock, of which number she killed three or four, and the Countess of Kildare one”. Roundell (1884)
Two practices for judging accuracy over distance were 'clout' and 'splitting the wand'. At Leaping 8
Midhurst Magazine. Issue 30, Autumn, November 2019 The bows were quite probably loaded for her, as a degree of strength would have been needed. After that she would just have to aim and pull the trigger, without the need for much hunting skill.
Elsted Marsh.
There is an oak tree in Cowdray Park, apparently planted to commemorate the visit of Queen
Contact Michael on 07734 982525 or email info@michaelchevis.com for details about have a go, introduction courses, membership and group events.
Why not follow in the footsteps of our ancestors and give it a go?
Elizabeth I; now one of the oldest and with the biggest girth in the country. In the 1930s Cowdray land was the site of national archery competitions. Christopher Campling, Dean Emeritus of Ripon Cathedral, visited there for one. A future international 1940s archery champion, Mrs Petronella De Wharton Burr, was competing at that time. Archery was a must for fashionable ladies of that time. Hunting with the bow and arrow was prohibited in the UK in 1965 but practising archery with a variety of bows – modern or traditional - as a sport, is seeing its revival. Apart from target shooting
both indoors and outdoors at distances between 10-60yds, Leaping Hart Archery offers its members the opportunity to test their skills on long distances at clout and wand as well as ‘hunting down’ 3D foam animals in their field archery course near
References: Roundell, Julia Anne Elizabeth. Cowdray; The History of a Great English House, Bickers, 1884 Boxall, Ronald E. A Midhurst Lad, Red’n’Ritten, Steyning, 2003
========================== Surname roots from the Archery occupation: • • • •
Archer - man who practiced archery. Bowman, Bowyer, Boayer, Boyer, Bogiere – made, or sold, bows and strings. From the Latin arcus and Old English bow or Middle English bowe. Fletcher – made shafts and attached the flights of an arrow. From the Old French meaning ‘arrow” Arrowsmith - made metal arrowheads using blacksmithing techniques.
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Midhurst Magazine. Issue 30, Autumn, November 2019
Ode to: Terence Bernard Guy Hanlon 5/11/1939 –6/05/2019 It’s the polo season once again and Cowdray is where it’s at, and there is Terry up in his box; the groovy cliché cat.
Now look at that horse fly he’s got plenty of room! There’s the pass and it’s a goal! and all hats are off to the grooms.
The players are all there horses pulling at the reins, the umpire throws the ball in and now Terry goes insane.
Ok, ladies and gentlemen, it’s now your part of the match. Tread in now pretty please the pitch needs repair and patch.
“There’s the pass, Nick Pepper breaks out, using his stick like a lance, he takes the shot, but it’s gone wide, what a chance, what a chance.
Quick everyone, get off the grass! the players are on once more and the ball is thrown in again who’s gonna be first to score?
Ray Fine has now got the ball but I think there’s a bit of foul play, the whistle’s blown, the whistle’s blown, now we’ll see what the umpires say.
Here’s Nick Pepper again watch now, see what he does. Gawd, the whistle’s blown So now what’s the bleedin’ fuss?
Dunno what for but a penalty now, from sixty yards out, what a shot! It’s straight up to the front door and tempers are getting hot!
George Pearson gets the pass can he make it? no he can’t. Ball’s gone wide; the ball’s gone wide what a chance, what a chance.
Ooh la la, it’s a goal! now ends change as you know. George Pearson grabs his chance co’s you only reap what you sow.
But it’s not over yet there’s one chukka to go and ends change once more as you very well know.
And without a shadow of a doubt it’s another flippin’ foul. Things are getting messy out there and there’s gonna be a row.
Without a shadow of a doubt this could go either way. But wait, what a pass; bugger the ball’s out of play!
The whistle’s blown, the whistle’s blown there’ll be another penalty before long. Now we’ll see what the umpire says, and it’s Peter Wright, he’s never wrong.
And there it is; the final bell That’s it, the end of play And I’m sure you’ll agree ladies and gents It’s been a wonderful day.”
There goes the first bell but the ball’s out of play ends change once more as you know and now the reds play the other way.
Another game is over and the winners get a cheer; now where has Terry gone? he’s gone for a ginger beer!
Terry, we salute you, you certainly made our day. We loved all your crazy banter and remember you always that way. © Robert Berry (Chairman, Midhurst Writer's Group). 10
Midhurst Magazine. Issue 30, Autumn, November 2019
Memories of H.G. Wells: Tea and Cake Family history by Jennifer Chevis
In the early 1880's Young Bertie began to visit Frederick Allin’s ironmonger’s shop, then next to Burgage House in Knockhundred Row.
my uncle John, and he used to say to me “spell chrysanthemum”. Young Bertie could never spell it. Bertie also visited Elizabeth Allin, my great grandmother, in Burgage House. Four generations of my family lived here and ran the ironmonger’s business.
Allin Bros. shop, and Burgage House, left. c.1960s.
Allin family. My grandparents: uncle John is standing back right. 1915.
Each day he would ‘pop’ in and confess to some little mistake he had made that would be mended and most of the time his employer, Mr Cowap the chemist, never knew about these problems.
Elizabeth often gave Young Bertie tea and cake and she was very impressed by his mind. Being supportive of him she asked him to write short stories on any topic, or any length. His imagination was incredible. He was able to describe so clearly and eloquently, exactly what was in his mind. My grandmother Ada with uncle John on their way to Burgage House
One day Elizabeth took Young Bertie for a ride in her carriage; he was thrilled by this and it was a reward for an exceptional piece of work
The soda-siphons were harder to disguise; on a few occasions my great grandfather, Frederick Allin, would replace the siphon free of charge. Young Bertie loved food, especially cake, which may have encouraged him to visit Burgage House so regularly.
Young Bertie got to ride in this elegant horse drawn carriage
When he was living above, what is today The Olive and Vine in North street, his landlady was a Mrs. Walton to whom he paid 12 shillings a week for lodgings. She was a wonderful cook and he remembered her meals with great pleasure.
“Young Bertie”, of course, was Herbert George Wells, or H.G. Wells (b.1866 – d. 1946) as he became universally known. He was born in Kent but had strong family ties with Midhurst. His mother Sarah Neal (b.1822 – d.1905) was born in the Egmont Arms on Rumbold’s Hill in Midhurst, where her father was the inn keeper. In 1833 the family inherited property and Sarah went to a finishing school in Chichester.
“Her stews were marvelously honest and she was great at junket, custard and whortleberry and blackberry jam.” Surprisingly, at that time, Young Bertie was not a great speller. This was remembered by 11
Midhurst Magazine. Issue 30, Autumn, November 2019 This enabled her to become a lady’s maid and she secured a position at Uppark. Sir Harry Fetherstonehaugh, of Uppark House, had married his dairy maid, Mary Ann Bullock. He was 70 years old and she was 20. He apparently heard her singing in the dairy one day and proposed. She accepted and they were married on 12th September 1825 in the saloon at Uppark. Mary Ann was sent to Paris to acquire social graces. Despite the initial shock and gossip, the marriage lasted.
As a young assistant to Mr Cowpar, H.G. also had to learn Latin so he could deal with prescriptions. He then went to evening classes with the headmaster of Midhurst Grammar School, Horace Byatt, who lived near South Pond. H.G. was soaking up all of this information like a sponge, but he was getting weary of writing, learning Latin and working in the shop. This is where Elizabeth Allin intervened. H.G. was getting so confident and able at his studies that he gave up his pharmaceutical apprenticeship to become a boarder at the Grammar school.
Mary Ann wanted her sister Frances to live with them at Uppark. Sarah Neal became her maid, there meeting her future husband, Joseph Wells, a gardener. After the marriage they moved to Kent and opened a shop. Sarah had four boys, Herbert being the youngest. She decided that when H.G. was 13 years old he would have to become an apprentice to a trade and H.G. was sent to Windsor to a draper’s shop. In 1880 Sarah returned to Uppark as the housekeeper, and when H.G. was dismissed after two months, he joined his mother there.
My great grandfather was a governor there and Elizabeth was determined that H.G. would get the guidance and support he needed. However, his mother had arranged for H.G. to take on another apprenticeship at a draper’s firm at Southsea; he was unhappy there for the next two years. 1883 was the year H.G. finally returned to Midhurst Grammar School; Elizabeth Allin pushed for him to get a paid post there and he became an assistant teacher in a rapidly growing school where he was able to continue as a student under Byatt. Sarah Wells finally agreed that education was the way forward for him.
He was delighted to be surrounded by Sir Harry’s books and works of art up in the attics; he found a telescope which he put together himself. This telescope enabled him to study the moon and all of this could have sown the seeds of his later interests in books, art, science and science fiction. Sir Harry brought back amazing treasures from his Grand Tour.
H.G. loved Midhurst all of his life, where he received kindness, care and support. At the school he went from strength to strength. He was happy reading text books unsupervised, and in the May exams he got top grades and won prizes for the school. Byatt was pushing him hard, but H.G. excelled at it and nearly gave up sleep.
In January 1881, H.G was sent by his mother to work for the chemist Samuel Cowap, in Church Hill in Midhurst. He was now 15 years old and if he walked from Uppark, the journey took three long hours. He immediately felt at home in the atmosphere of Midhurst and the fact that his grandparents had lived there gave him a sense of belonging. H.G. only spent about a month in this fascinating shop where he was surrounded by neat gilt inscribed drawers and bottles of different coloured potions. He could be rather clumsy and breakages were high when he had friendly broom fights with the errand boy. Soda-water siphons were usually smashed in these encounters. He had to be very careful when dusting the stunning, large glass bottles filled with coloured liquids. These bottles were in the window for over a hundred years, and still exist today.
H.G. at Imperial College
He was learning from Byatt how to teach and he loved it, reading at a prodigious rate. He even created a timetable for himself. At this time the government was trying to attract high flyers to the world of science teaching. H.G. was offered a free place, at what is now Imperial College in South Kensington. 12
Midhurst Magazine. Issue 30, Autumn, November 2019 There he studied under the famous Professor Thomas Huxley, who he greatly admired. When Huxley retired, H.G. gave it all up and began his writing career.
times but all my memories of Midhurst are in sunshine.’ My great grandmother, Elizabeth Allin, passed on her memories of H.G. In turn, she passed these memories to her grandson, my Uncle Allin, on to me over a number of years.
He remarked in late life: ‘Midhurst has always been a happy place for me. I suppose it rained there at
=================== The Mid-Sussex and Midhurst Junction Railway: by Michael de Jong-Smith In August 1859, the Mid-Sussex and Midhurst Junction Railway deposited plans proposing an extension of the Petworth branch to Midhurst; this was followed in November by a decision to further extend the line to Petersfield. However, the LSWR-sponsored Petersfield Railway objected and the LBSCR would not support the MSMJR owing to a territorial agreement with the LSWR. The terms of this agreement prevented the LBSCR from being associated with any line west of Midhurst and so the Petersfield extension was abandoned.
or lately, belonging to Pruett Dennett, Esq., and adjoining the south side the road leading from Midhurst to Bepton, where the Catholic Church and Masonic Hall are now located. At that time New Road did not exist. The plans show the line of railway as following roughly the south side of Selham Road, leading to a bridge over what is now South Pond, but in fact there were several amendments to the original plans and the final agreement was that the line should terminate where the Fire Station and Oaklands Close are now located.
Although it had less than six miles of railway to construct, the MSMJR ran into difficulties firstly with some of the local landowners and then some financial troubles. Progress was slow, and even though the LBSCR tentatively absorbed the company in 1862, it was not until 15th October, 1866 that the first trains ran through to Midhurst on this line.
This necessitated major engineering work on
`Wonders will never cease' declared the West Sussex Gazette, referring to the railway as `Death's Line' and added:
the line: a 276-yard-long Midhurst Tunnel was needed, taking the line under what is now the A286 on a curve of about 30 chains radius.
`This project has been so long in hand that we began to despair of seeing it fully carried out during the present generation'.
During construction the tunnel suffered a partial collapse, which delayed completion of the railway. The east portal can be found about 100 yards west of the Royal Oak bridge on Oaklands Lane. Both the east and west portals
The route of the railway was intended to terminate at a point in a field or enclosure now, 13
Midhurst Magazine. Issue 30, Autumn, November 2019 are constructed of brick and buttressed. The western portal can be found to the rear of the flats on The Fairway.
roof and had two entrances to the building. There was a locomotive turntable near the Bepton Road end of the platform, and also a rail connection with the LSWR line to facilitate the transfer of wagons between one railway company to the other. A walkway from the end of the platform led to a separate footbridge over the Bepton Road for passengers to reach the platform end of the LSWR station. The site also included a goods shed, cattle dock, goods sidings and a locomotive shed. The number of station staff is not known, but shortly after opening, the locomotive shed had a roster of four drivers, two firemen and two cleaners.
From the beginning, it was intended that the Railway should be operated by the London, Brighton and South Coast Railway, but the MSMJR existed as an entity from 1859 until 1874, when it was officially absorbed into the LBSC. Model of the station, built by the author.
This station existed for only fifteen years, and was demolished in 1881 when the much grander station was opened where The Fairway now exists.
The station was built of timber with a slate
====================== Where are These? Two Bell Towers
(a)
(b ) Answers on page 30
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Midhurst Magazine. Issue 30, Autumn, November 2019
Cocking’s Community Hub: Now on the Horizon Villagers enjoying the first pop-up pub event at the Blue Bell, celebrate the purchase.
Cocking, near Midhurst, is on the cusp of opening its own community-led village hub in its old pub, the Blue Bell, which closed without prospect of a new start, three years ago.
Now they are fundraising for the final stages (£160,000 in total); holding special activities including ‘Pop-up pubs’, completing the refurbishment, and seeking a very special person or couple to run it - and the Blue Bell Community Hub is to open this winter. So how did they do it? Villagers were determined not to lose the heart of their village. Hub president, the sculptor Philip Jackson, said: “We realised we could become just a collection of houses which is not what we want; it would have lost its community feel.”
Artists’ impression of how the Blue Bell Community Hub will look.
In October last year the project began. The proposed hub would incorporate the village pub, a restaurant serving good quality pub grub, a café, bed & breakfast, an information centre for visitors to the South Downs National Park, and soon a shop and Post Office.
In under a year, villagers have staged an outstanding turnaround, setting up a not-forprofit Community Benefit Society, seeking grants, sponsorship and donations - including a Community Share Offer - enabling them to buy the pub for £470,000 at the end of April.
The Blue Bell - ‘Owned by the Community’ under refurbishment at last.
Enjoying a drink and a chat at fundraising event.
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Midhurst Magazine. Issue 30, Autumn, November 2019 The enterprise will be run by a commercial tenant and there will also be volunteer opportunities. Peter Gibbon, one of the villagers spearheading the fundraising campaign, said:
The Last Push!
“We are now seeking a suitable tenant to run the venue - someone with local connections would be great - to live on site and share in the vision for the pub to become a true social hub, providing facilities and services that bring the community together and serve its visitors.”
Work under way in the main bar area – the old counter removed to reveal a completely different sort of space.
The project has received support from a wide range of people and organisations, including the South Downs National Park Authority, local destinations such as Goodwood, the Weald & Downland Living Museum, the West Dean Estate and the city of Chichester, residents of Midhurst and nearby villages, and people who enjoy the National Park’s stunning landscapes.
With the interior refurbishment under way and for the shop, planning permission has come through, Cocking villagers are now looking for £60,000 to complete ancillary works – including much improved disabled access, fit-out for the shop and Post Office ready for when the current postmaster retires, exterior decoration, setting up the cycle repair facility and resurfacing the car park.
“The hub will be a relaxed, accessible venue where people of all ages can enjoy the facilities and activities – a beer or a glass of wine, coffee and chat, or a good meal with friends,” “We are all very much looking forward to the opening.” Peter Gibbon.
The funds will come from more community shareholdings, donations and grants. Peter Gibbon says:
Want to find out more about the project, or the special events planned over the next few months? Go to www.bluebellhub.org
“Currently we have over 120 shareholders and we are keen for local people who have enjoyed using the Blue Bell in the past to support its future. Shares will be available to those who are new to the area, especially those who have moved into the village recently”.
An original Blue Bell pub sign – preserved by a villager, will appear outside the pub when it opens.
There’s more about Community Shares and donating at https://www.bluebellhub.org/investi ng-blue-bell-community-hub/
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Midhurst Magazine. Issue 30, Autumn, November 2019
So, You Think You Know the Area: By P.J.T.
Another Cross Word Puzzle
Answers on p30.
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Midhurst Magazine. Issue 30, Autumn, October 2019
Walking with Richard: Chithurst and Hammer Wood There is a quiet, secret little lake in the woods of the Weald which may have a kingfisher along its shores, or a wood duck on its placid blue waters.
On the hill top to the right, eastward, you may catch a glimpse of the Iron Age hill fort which is triple-banked. It has collapsed now, after two thousand years compared to others on the chalk downs. There are some beech trees growing on the sandy banks with knotted roots like hawsers of ocean liners.
But we start this 2.8 miles (4.5kms) wander down the Roman road which came from Silchester and went on to Chichester. Limited roadside parking is on the minor road called Iping Lane, which is three miles north-west of Midhurst at SU851243. 200 yards west of the road junction, a footpath takes you south, over the fields, on the ancient road. Today, tractors have replaced chariots.
In wet weather the sandy track may be gouged out like a desert wadi. Look out for heathland plants such as lesser gorse (far smaller than European gorse which is common) and also bilberry and heather. Eventually, at Robins Farm we meet the road and turn south, right, back to our modern chariot.
After half a mile you reach another very minor road and on turning right you descend the rutted road to a stream, a hamlet, and [in season] snowdrops in the woods when you turn right past the Hammer pond. Peaceful now – but imagine the banging, thumping, hot sparks and swearing when this was an Elizabethan forge, smelting iron and forging anything from fire backs to canons.
[First published in the Chichester Observer and reproduced here by kind permission of Richard Williamson, with whom copyright remains. Many of these popular articles have been published in his book 52 Favourite West Sussex Walks by Richard Williamson, published by Summersdale.]
The path climbs through the wood with glimpses of moorhens, and sometimes tufted ducks as well on the water below. Beech trees tower over with holly, birch, ash and willow. At Easter the bees will be in the pussy willows then, so will the marsh tits.
Editors' note: For those of you not familiar
with grid references – leave the A272 a few miles west of Midhurst and take the small road north marked Iping. Keep going over Iping Bridge and follow the signs for Milland. Stubb Hill Farm is one mile north of the bridge. This road is very narrow so be prepared to reverse if you meet another car. The walk back from Robins Farm is also very narrow, so take extra care.
Great spotted woodpeckers mark their territories by drumming on the trees. This wood was the favourite haunt and work place of Cisterian Mike Holmes, Cold War night fighter pilot (Javelins), author, birdwatcher, and forester here in these woods - when he had retired from the RAF.
You might also want to visit the Chithurst Buddhist Monastery, on Petersfield Road; perhaps the only Dhamma Hall in the world built in the style of a traditional Sussex Barn. And, there is a cafe at the Aylings Garden Centre.
We come now to a minor road for a few yards but leave it at once, turning half right, for the track going back into the woods called Moorhouse Lane and follow it in a righthanded half circle back to the Milland Road. 18
Midhurst Magazine. Issue 30, Autumn, October 2019
The Chithurst and Hammer Wood Walk
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Midhurst Magazine. Issue 30, Autumn, October 2019
Park House Hotel: Resurrection by Brig John Hardy* and provided by Midhurst Society member, Claire Cox.
his party found themselves in Midhurst where he called at the only estate agent, Dick Knight, and asked whether there were local properties for sale.
Many years ago, before Pound Cottage was built, there were perhaps only two houses in Bepton, the already ancient house now known as Green Meadows, to the west of the unmetalled lane which is now the Bepton Road, and on the other side of the lane a cottage, with a fine timber-framed barn. Around 1900 a wealthy man bought the cottage and barn, acquired nine acres of surrounding land and, over the next two years, extended the cottage into approximately the Park House which has been a familiar feature of Bepton for the past hundred years.
The only one was Park House, Bepton. Its owner, Lady Manners, had lent the house to the Government for the duration of WW2. When Pop Edmunds saw it, it was a derelict ex-nursing home, in an awful state of repair and set in its unkept and jungle-like, nine acres. Pop Edmunds bought it for £12,500 and lived there in one room until his death in 1947, leaving Park House to his daughter Ione. By then India had been partitioned and Old Mike had arrived back in England.
In India, in the years between the two world wars, there was a British civil engineer by the name of Edmunds - ‘Pop’ Edmunds to his daughter Ione and his friends. He had been widowed since the early 1920s, and was by all accounts, a go-getter who piloted his light aircraft all over India. Also, in India before the Second World War, there was a planter called Michael O’Brien - Old Mike for the purpose of this account. He married Pop Edmunds daughter, Ione, in 1933 and in 1935 their son, Young Mike, was born. By 1946 ‘Pop’ Edmunds was a very rich man.
The O’Briens tried to sell the property but that proved impossible and so, with no marketable qualifications and or immediate prospects, they decided that the only thing to do was to turn it into a country house hotel. Getting permission was a good deal easier than how it would be now, but they duly applied to the relevant council and an official came to inspect. He went all round and is then reported to have said “I see you have two sinks, so that’s all right... Go ahead!”. So, they set about it and on 1st May, 1948, the hotel was opened, with eleven bedrooms and one bathroom. At that time, it was hard to obtain building materials.
He decided to head for home, persuaded an Indian Doctor to certify that he was fit to fly, and set out for England in his aeroplane. Not surprisingly he failed to complete his journey by that means, but nevertheless eventually ended up in The London hospital for Tropical Diseases. Before long he found the inactivity of hospital life intolerably boring and discharged himself. Summoning his daughter Ione and grandson Young Mike, and insisting on taking the wheel himself, he drove them out of London. Young Mike was only eleven at the time, but still remembers vividly what a terrifying journey it was.
Old Mike’s job was to reclaim the nine acres of grounds, to keep the hotel accounts and to use his enormous charm to make guests feel welcome. He found an area near the house which had obviously, at some time, been levelled. First, a tennis court was made, and then another; other sporting facilities took shape. Meanwhile Ione ran the Hotel for over forty years, not only supervising the staff, but also doing the excellent cooking. She was always first up in the morning, taking early-morning
Pop Edmunds seems to have had no particular destination in mind, but in due course he and 20
Midhurst Magazine. Issue 30, Autumn, October 2019 tea to the rooms, and was last to bed when the last guest had retired for the night.
to have the engine for his Board’s museum and in return he would personally see to it that the South end of the village would get mains electricity; and so it happened.
Until 1970 the O’Briens did no advertising, relying instead on satisfied guests spreading the news.
Over the years the facilities of the hotel were progressively improved. In 1994 the barn, which had been used as a garage and general store, was converted into the present beautiful conference and function centre with its own kitchen and all its original beams intact. At the same time the old engine house was reroofed and converted to provide two more bedrooms for the hotel. South Downs Cottage, just North of the hotel, which had always been let as a private dwelling, was in 1999 incorporated into the hotel and now provides three more bedrooms and a small conference and function facility.
Indian polo team
Lord Cowdray [3rd Viscount] recommended the hotel to the distinguished polo players who came from all over the world, but notably from the Indian Sub-Continent and Argentina, to play at Cowdray Park. When the Chichester Festival Theatre opened in 1962, famous actress Celia Johnson, a close family friend, introduced her fellow thespians to the hotel: many well-known actors and actresses became regular guests. The walls of the hotel bar are, to this day, covered with signed photographs of many of them.
Through the early 1990s Ione O’Brien’s health was gradually deteriorating but she carried indomitably on. When somebody asked her, what happened if she was ill, she replied: “l just can’t be ill”. Ione with John Pearson, the 3rd Viscount Cowdray, sometime in the early 1990s. (Park Hotel)
Celia Johnson (Wikipedia)
By about 1970 more bathrooms had been installed, details of the hotel began to appear in tourist publications, and the hotel was registered with the Tourist Board. The road then from Midhurst was still even less than ‘minor’. No electric power had reached the top end of Bepton. The hotel depended on an elderly and unreliable generator. One day Old Mike, who was no mechanic, was in the old farm building which served as an engine house, trying to get the generator going and cursing its fallibility. A hotel guest heard the cursing and saw the engine. “What a wonderful old engine” he said. Old Mike told him what he personally thought of it, how much he would prefer to have mains power; and how he had often written to the Southern Electricity Board without even receiving the courtesy of a reply. “Why don’t you write to me?” asked the guest. “Who are you?” Old Mike replied. The guest said that he was the Chairman of the S.E.B. A deal was struck on the spot. The Chairman was
By 1995, she could no longer manage. Young Mike and his wife Liza took over. Ione died in 1997, much missed in Bepton and far beyond. Young Mike and Liza carried on for another year but then the family decided that the time had come to bring the whole complex up to first class modern standards. Three generations from Ione, centre
Part of the plan was to raise the roof by a few feet to make room for more bedrooms. The resulting weight of the building would have been too much for the existing foundations and much underpinning, as well as major alterations and rebuilding, were needed. The hotel closed in February 2001, and became an extremely busy building site for many months. 21
Midhurst Magazine. Issue 30, Autumn, October 2019 In May, 2002, Park House Hotel opened for business once more. On 28th June a large gathering of guests was entertained to a most enjoyable party in garden; and they had the chance to see around the hotel.
Chef for the June party are anything to go by, visitors to the dining room will be in for a gastronomic treat too. * This account is adapted from one apparently written around 2002 by Brigadier John Hardy, who is almost certainly the grandfather of the John Hardy, currently a Trustee of the King’s Own Royal Regiment Museum in Lancaster, and who supplied this picture of him. He was a family friend living opposite to the hotel in Bepton.
What we found was most impressive. The kitchens had been completely modernised, the Dining Room and bar had been extended to cater for more guests, the bedrooms are now beautifully equipped and decorated and each has a luxury bathroom, with both bath and shower. In fact, Park House Hotel now offers a very high standard of modern accommodation, and if the superb canapés prepared by the new
================= Meet the Committee: Peter Shaw This year Peter retired from his position as a successful Society’s Talks organiser. He has kept up the good tradition of presenting us with interesting speakers; who amaze us with their accounts of their life, events and achievements. We cannot let his go without telling readers ‘all about him’.
individuals, groups and worldwide causes. Earlier this century Peter learnt to sail yachts and enjoy racing classic dinghies at Bosham, 12miles away just below Chichester, as well as sailing yachts.
Peter was brought up near to Royal Tunbridge Wells, moving to Midhurst in 2003. He was sitting in the back row of a Midhurst Society meeting six years ago when a desperate plea was made for someone to take over the lecture programme – and immediately. He thought that sounded rather fun, getting speakers to talk on a huge variety of subjects; and so it has been. He, and members and guests who have attended the sessions, met so many interesting people.
Peter constructed a traditional wooden boat whilst attending a boat building course
near Plymouth. He has retired from his core business but still retains some property interests to keep him busy.
He tells us he will continue to support the Midhurst Society in all its useful activities.
Horse riding, after a 40-year gap.
Children and grandchildren are a fulfilling part of his life, they being scattered between Eastbourne and Oxford.
Tennis is an occasional pleasure. He continues to take an active role in voluntary work with the Midhurst Rotary, who raise and distribute funds to Midhurst
The Midhurst Society members thank him for his contribution and hope he continues to enjoy many more of our Talks. 22
Midhurst Magazine. Issue 30, Autumn, October 2019
Midhurst Central: Problem Traffic! and thus, create further traffic jams. Another by-product of the expansion of on-line shopping has been an increase in the number of delivery vans in and around town.
Steve Morely writes in.
Does Midhurst have a highways problem? Any town unfortunate enough to have two A roads converging at its heart is always going to suffer from a raised level of traffic blight. In Midhurst this problem is further exacerbated by the presence of a bottle neck on Rumbolds Hill
Along with the lorries that deliver to the town’s traders, these vehicles are unable to stop at their designated spaces and are consequently compelled to double park. This has a detrimental effect on the town’s through traffic and causes much angst for motorists and pedestrians alike.
Vehicles can be almost as wide as the whole roadway at Rumbolds Hill. The white lorry parked for 50min to unload; the loading bay was not available.
There is also the impracticability of bypassing the town centre due to the surrounding lanes being so narrow. Motorists get frustrated by the hold-ups that subsequently develop and the anxiety this creates often results in excessively speedy exits from the town. As miserable as this experience can be for drivers, it is even more unpleasant and often dangerous for pedestrians. Therefore yes! Midhurst does have a highways problem.
The latter also suffer from the consequent air pollution created by the stationary traffic. As well as our medical health being put at risk, the town’s economic health is also threatened by this abuse of highway regulations. As less residents find it enjoyable to walk in to town for their shopping then it is likely that more traders may close. The law of diminishing
However, apropos to the question, the town also enjoys some positive aspects such as being blessed with two large and two small car parks. As residents know, the town has much to offer visitors. Those motorists who wish to stop and enjoy the town’s assets and facilities are clearly directed to these car parks and pleased to discover free, or low parking charges.
Illegal parking on a double line corner!
Unfortunately, in these modern and fastmoving times, not all motorists are prepared to make the small effort necessary to avail themselves of these benefits. These motorists park in the town’s loading and delivery bays
returns suggests that this could be another signal to shop elsewhere and hence further reduce the number of visitors motivated to stop awhile. 23
Midhurst Magazine. Issue 30, Autumn, October 2019 Unfortunately, the Civil Enforcement Officers (who manage parking on our streets and do their best to keep traffic flowing) do not visit often enough to dissuade all errant drivers and thus this harmful downward spiral might continue.
If all this can be achieved then Midhurst could take back ownership of its highways and create a town centre to be proud of. With the extension of cycle ways from Chichester and Petersfield it is hoped that cyclists would find the town a safer environment. The town’s current on-street parking arrangements are not fit for purpose and consequently the residents have had their town centre hijacked from them by an ever-increasing number of vehicles. It is now time to take it back and once again enjoy the way of life we all bought in to by living here…. and to do it before Midhurst chokes to death.
Midhurst Town Council first initiated a review of Midhurst’s highways three years ago. Latterly that review was made part of this summer’s Vision Programme. The Town Council are aware of the desire by residents to reinstate a thriving high street and keen to halt any decline. The Council want to encourage Midhurst residents and others from local parishes to use the town’s existing facilities. To this end, and as a result of the review, the Town Council is keen to work with both West Sussex County Council and Chichester District Council to help achieve their aim of eradicating air pollution and making both North and West Street safe and desirable shopping destinations. They have also signed up to the West Sussex Police Speedwatch initiative in order to help educate drivers to the dangers of speeding and are keen to find better ways to dissuade pavement parking.
The results of the long-awaited Midhurst Town Council’s Highway Review in partnership with Midhurst Vision will be available towards the end of 2019. Chichester District Council’s Parking Review will be available in 2020. Steve Morley is a former member of Chichester District Council where he sat on the District Parking Forum and the Air Quality Review Group. He is still a member of Midhurst Town Council. All opinions expressed are entirely his own.
However, in order to achieve the necessary changes, residents and visitors will have to modify the way they currently park.
======== ‘Give us a shout if we get moving again!
Alterations may be necessary to other on-street parking areas and parking times may need some adjustment to encourage a greater turnover of visitors. Collectively the town
From Thelwell’s book of Leisure, 1968
should encourage drivers to make more and better use of our car parks. I have previously been berated for suggesting it, but I do believe that better use of our car parks and alterations to on-street parking arrangements are the way forward. Motorists are able to park just minutes away from the town centre and as well as keeping the loading bays free, the short walk would be beneficial.
One person’s suggestion to the traffic problem - a personal portable overpass
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Midhurst Magazine. Issue 30, Autumn, October 2019
Bridget's Midhurst Meanderings By Bridget Howard
Hello again. Today we are going to listen to the historic bells on our churches. The whole town mourned. Now, of course, we can't know everyone in the wider community. As T.S. Eliot wrote in his poem Burnt Norton, ‘Time and the bell have buried the day’.
One of the landmarks in Midhurst is the empty belfry over the southern part of the Wheatsheaf pub in Rumbolds Hill. This was once the Roman Catholic church, built in 1869 by public subscription in what had been a stagecoach yard, that had become unwanted when the railways came.
Some of my readers will remember that all the church bells were silenced in the Second World War. If they had rung, it would have been a warning that the enemy had invaded.
A century later, a new Catholic church was built in Bepton Road, and the bell was installed in a new campanile there.
A bell in the Parish Church tower
Daily at noon and 6.00 pm, its 3-3-3-9 strokes ring out the Angelus, telling us to stop work for a moment and pray. The Angelus has rung since time immemorial, ceasing in the 1530's when Henry VIII broke away from the Vatican, and continuing in more tolerant reigns. Before Henry, the parish church was Catholic, and the Angelus rang from there.
An exception was to celebrate the victory at El Alamein, just as peals had rang out after Trafalgar and Mafeking. What joy when the ban was lifted, and we again heard our church bells every Sunday! In Midhurst we have another bell that rings every day, but which few people know about! To listen to it, stand in Market Square one evening just before 8.00 pm. On the hour the clock will strike eight, then pause, and strike another 30 times. This is the Curfew Bell that, since the time of the Normans, has warned inhabitants to cover their fires ('couvre-feu') lest during the night a spark might set fire to their little wooden houses, and those of their neighbours.
In those days, Midhurst Church (like those of Easebourne, Lodesworth and Fernhurst) were controlled by Easebourne Priory, and in 1428 the Prioress refused to pay for ropes for our single bell. The Priory was dissolved in 1535. By 1724 we had five bells, which were recast as six in 1765. Two were recast again in 1882 and all were rehung with new fittings in 1967. Today, the bells of the Church of England in Market Square ring out on Sunday mornings in the mathematical sequence known as 'change ringing', in which the sequence changes at every round. The history of the bells themselves, their weight and inscriptions, are set out in notices on the inside south wall of the church.
A story is told about a traveller who long ago was lost one night on the North Heath, above the town. Suddenly, the sound of Midhurst's curfew bell came to him, and he knew the direction he must ride. In thankfulness, he gave the church a plot of land whose rent would pay the person who rang the curfew.
Church bells have inspired many writers over the years. Readers of Dorothy Sayers' book “The Nine Tailors” will recall the Passing Bell that was rung nine times for the death of a man, six times for a woman, followed by one stroke for every year of their age. Long ago this was heard in Midhurst, rung on the tenor bell on the parish church, and everyone in the little community knew who had passed away. People stopped what they were doing. Men uncovered their heads.
Today, the Curfew Garden (photo: courtesy of the tenant) is not open to the public and is in the care of the Town Trust. The bell, now electronically controlled, still rings out every night. Next time: Shopping then and now.
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Midhurst Magazine. Issue 30, Autumn, October 2019
Grandma Came to Stay: Accessing Literacy Local Author, Sharon Watters, explains.
I was born and brought up in Petersfield and moved to Elsted 9 years ago. The Downs have a very special place in my soul because, as a child, I spent many Sundays being chased by or chasing a very disobedient collie up and down the hills. Looking back, I am sure my father chose this as a method of keeping three, rather unruly, girls busy. I can often be found up at the trig point on a good day, fondly remembering him. Whilst reading Environmental Science at University, I used the Downs for research and investigation and became a lover of their history. It is a privilege to be able to see, walk, climb and listen to those hills.
The story is written in rhyme so that a reader can guess the end word if they can’t read it and it won’t matter. The font has been chosen to match the accepted taught writing style; too often I have seen a child struggle because the ‘a’ and the ‘g’ aren’t familiar. The size of the book means that it sits easily on a very young child’s lap. I have now completed five Grandma adventure stories; they lay on my writing table without images so far. The Grandpa story, Grandpa I Have A Question, has become my most exciting project now and I hope to have that published next year.
I became a science teacher twenty years ago and loved taking young children outside to explore their home environments within Hampshire. Although I loved teaching science, I became involved in supporting those who struggled to read the written word, or those who could not master the writing of it. This led me to study further and become a dyslexia specialist.
Being accepted by a publisher is exhausting and takes more time than it does to write a story. Finding an agent is almost impossible. However, in these wonderful times of multiplatforms, there are many other options out in the ether. My first novel will be published as a serial within a blog and, if then warmly received, I may enter it into a competition.
I moved over to West Sussex schools and focused on those young people who, despite being highly intelligent, could not easily access literacy. With three boys of my own I have always told them stories, but it wasn’t until I took the opportunity to leave the profession that I loved, that I found the time to be creative and put pen to paper.
Saying that I am a writer still makes me chuckle. I doubt that it will ever make me rich, but I love writing. I can still be found on the building site, doing as I am told by my husband, to bring in the cash and this keeps me fit and allows me time to gain a clear head so that my characters have the time to tell me their story. My granddaughters inspire me to be braver: I hope to inspire them to become whatever they want to be.
My first published book, Grandma Came to Stay, is written with early readers in mind, and for those who still struggle to enjoy reading because the written code is hard; and it is - for some.
Grandma Came to Stay is available from Olympia Publishers, in e-book or hard copy versions.
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Midhurst Magazine. Issue 30, Autumn, October 2019
CAMPAIGNS, PLANNING and PROJECTS Harvey Tordhoff reports in. We continue to be active on the bigger issues involving Midhurst and surrounding area, responding to the appropriate organisations and authorities and promoting our views in the local and social media. We take action where we think we can make a difference. Here is a brief summary of some of the issues we have pursued since our Spring magazine (Issue 29).
We expressed concern to the Cowdray Estate regarding the tree-felling alongside the A286 – and received a very helpful explanation from their CEO.
Following the January installation of a defibrillator in North Street, in April we donated a second one to the Cowdray Sports Pavilion, in both cases drawing
We lent our support to Midhurst Vision as it geared up for a comprehensive survey on public opinion on the future of Midhurst. We continued to publicise the endeavours of the community in Cocking as they first raised the money to buy the Blue Bell pub and then launched an appeal for funds for the renovation (see article on Page 15). We also supported the efforts of Heyshott residents and the Richard Cobden family as they sought to persuade the YMCA to gift Dunford House and its contents for the benefit of the nation. We wrote to the YMCA and the Charity Commission, but it now seems likely that the estate will be subject to a commercial sale.
on the legacy fund granted to us by Mrs E G Carne. Several clubs use the Pavilion, with a combined membership of 450, and this equipment could be vital in an emergency.
We continue to monitor progress on the creation of an Integrated Community Health Hub at the Riverbank site, and we encouraged SECAMB (South East Coast Ambulance Service) to base a Response Vehicle at the Fire Station in New Road. We also spoke to SECAMB about the possibility of establishing a First
We wrote to SDNPA (South Downs National Park Authority) supporting their consultation document on Affordable Housing, and even offered a (rather
Responder Group in Midhurst, to provide vital assistance during the wait for an ambulance. We have been promised action at the beginning of 2020.
controversial) idea for dealing with long-term unoccupied buildings. We wrote to WSCC (West Sussex County Council) in favour of Stedham Primary School being kept open.
Although we took no further action on soft sand quarrying, we were pleased to note that the majority 27
Midhurst Magazine. Issue 30, Autumn, October 2019 A developer sought pre-planning advice on the construction of 72 homes on the Former Brickworks Site in Bepton Road. Although comments aren't invited at this stage, we nevertheless urged that due consideration be given to infrastructure and climate change mitigation.
of the possible sites in the National Park (including The Severals) were removed from the list under consideration. This was in line with our stronglyworded recommendations earlier in the year. Concerned by the continued presence of the ugly hoardings around the Grange Development Site, and the apparent absence of any further action on the CDC (Chichester District Council) 'deal' with Montpelier Estates we decided to request Community Asset Status for the site.
The SDNPA Local Plan was adopted in July. Sadly, it seems that none of the points we raised in our detailed response in 2017 were acted upon. The Local Plan incorporated the Neighbourhood Plan prepared by the Parish of Stedham with Iping, including development proposals for the Old Sawmill. We had been supportive of this in our 2018 response but the Inspector disagreed and scaled back the proposals. His only reservation on the Holmbush Caravan Park, however, was the risk of flooding. He didn't comment on the poor access that we had highlighted in our response. We will continue to seek the views of residents on all major matters and make sure their voices are heard.
This might give the people of Midhurst an opportunity to take control and to influence any future development, but don't hold your breath. There are several difficult hurdles to clear first! In case you hadn't noticed, Midhurst has a traffic problem (see article by Steve Morley on Page 23). Whilst there is no sign of a vehicle bypass on the horizon, it would be helpful to have a cycle bypass, and there are two separate planning issues being pursued. We learnt our support to both. The first is an extension of the Centurion Way from West Dean to Cocking Hill (approved in October) and the second is a section of cycle way from Holmbush to the A272 at the Cowdray Farm Shop.
After concluding that the Stag Garden Roundabout was unsuitable, we continue to work with Midhurst Town Council, Midhurst Town Trust and Philip Jackson over the actions required to place his sculpture of Dante looking for Paradise in the Market Square.
A feasibility study has been completed. A proposal for the missing link, between Cocking Hill and Holmbush, is still awaited. We commented favourably on the proposed development of the Bowls Club Site, although we expressed reservations about traffic, parking and the absence of affordable housing. We also voiced our concerns about traffic and parking problems that we considered would be exacerbated by the proposal for 9 additional homes in Lamberts Lane/Park Crescent. Both issues are unresolved.
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Midhurst Magazine. Issue 30, Autumn, October 2019 BIG Planning issues come to the fore A major element of the raison d’etre for the Society is, of course, good Planning - and this year we have seen many issues to comment on, ranging from sand extraction at The Severals to housing developments, of which, there are many. If you have not followed the work in this area by Harvey Tordoff, I urge you to browse his comments on our website. One issue is the future of village schools such as Stedham’s.
From the Chair Dear Members, Talks Programme Our Talks Programme this year has seen more and more visitors attending, as well as members. Amongst several highlights was an outstanding presentation given by international sculptor Philip Jackson, who lives locally. Attendees were enthralled by his prolific achievements - inspired bronze creations and life studies commissioned by celebrities, including HM Queen Elizabeth II - on horseback - now to be seen in the Great Park Windsor. Philip also announced that he is working on a new sculpture of Dante reading Paradise. He is donating this figure to the town and it will be situated in the town square. Philip’s seamless presentation kept us glued to our seats, way past our bedtime, setting a new record of 10pm finish time; but still had us wanting more!
If you have a particular contribution to make to any of the Plans please get in touch directly with Harvey. It is worth mentioning that, since we invited Chichester District Councillors to address us in January. There has been no further action on the Grange site. The Society is taking the initiative of requesting that this be declared a Community Asset which, if granted, would enable the town to decide, and implement, how this should be used to the benefit of the people of Midhurst. Watch this space as the Society ventures into new territory to honour our mission:
The AGM had sculpture of a different kind when members were asked to guess the weight of a rather oversized chocolate sculpture of an Easter Bunny. One lucky member got closest and was ‘in chocolate’ for a month afterwards!
‘to help make Midhurst a better place to live, work and enjoy’.
During the interval we enjoyed a background presentation from Hugh Bonneville reading from Michael Chevis’s book Reflections; with music composed by Damian Montagu called “In a South Downs Way” (thanks to YouTube). Then we were treated to a surrealist view of local water-colour scenes by David Johnston, artist and photographer.
Our bookshelf recommends Are you a new member? If you want to ‘gen up’ on our beautiful town, its history, people and surroundings we recommend that you read these books…….
In June the Society was invited by Tony and Sarah Bolton to hold a garden party in the beautiful grounds of their house in Woolbeding. It was a lovely evening despite torrential rain which meant we were unable to enjoy their glorious garden!
Midhurst in Living Memory (36 copies left, £5), compiled by Society members. Copies are available at Talks or request it from balmforth@yahoo.com
The talk in October was another sell out evening with a presentation by CEO of Cowdray Estate, Jonathan Russell. 29
Midhurst Magazine. Issue 30, Autumn, October 2019 Reflections …- by local photographer Michael Chevis. with a foreword by Hugh Bonneville. It is a collection of 100 short stories and stunning photographs inspired by The Downs. Available when you quote The Midhurst Society recommendation for £12.50 (list price £13.30) from Michael Chevis, The Studio, 4 West Street, Midhurst.
taking on the role from Harvey (now our Vice Chairman.) Thomas McGlashan brings digital and IT networking skills as our Communications Officer. Sue Balmforth and I take on the work of Talks 2020 from Peter Shaw who, after 6 years of putting them together, retires to concentrate on sailing and Rotary, amongst other pursuits. His input to committee meetings, Talks and bar administration will be sorely missed. We owe a special thank you to our AV specialist Steve Diver who continues to support our audiovisual needs at every talk; starting an hour earlier and leaving when the last chair is put back! For more information about your Committee refer to the website.
Midhurst WW2 Memoirs. Book 1, 3 more to come, is by Peter Sydenham. This one is a history of the Midhurst District before 1940. He was an evacuee here during WW2. You can browse a copy at any of our Talks evenings. There is also a small booklet available, on his time as an evacuee here.
And finally, once more…. a BIG THANKS to our newly formed Volunteers who help set up the hall and take it down for every Talk, plus run our Bar and wash up. More Help is wanted in 2020 - please contact Pat Wallace, our Administrator! Now we need your help! Before our AGM in April, we would welcome more help with Planning Matters - the very foundation of the Society. Planning on a project basis only if that is all you have time for, or as a Committee member. 2020 is going to need a lot of comment and reviews about what is in store for the future of Midhurst. Please speak directly to Harvey.
See www.midhurstmemoirs.com for information on his project. A Midhurst Flying Field: The Story of a Forgotten Naval Air Station at War 19411945. Selham Airfield Project, 2017. Another recent book is Tania Pons’ account of the use of a ‘secret’ WW2 airfield on Cowdray land. It is a study of its role, and the life of the men and women who supported the Royal Navy’s small airplanes.
Tell us you LIKE it…. Last reminder readers: please go to our Facebook page and every time you see a new POST indicate you like it. “I like it, I like it, I like the way. NB 2020 is the Society’s 60th Anniversary - so watch out for the celebrations!
For more selections, see our Bookshelf at the next Talk. New Committee posts We have welcomed this year 4 new Committee members: Peter Sydenham - our Australia based Editor for The Midhurst Magazine. Pat Wallace - volunteer coordinator. Gill Stokes has agreed to be the Society’s Treasurer –
Michael Balmforth Chairman
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Midhurst Magazine. Issue 30, Autumn, October 2019 commissions: famous people in public locations. There is a common theme that brings the two sides together: immense sculpting skill and a great sensitivity. His public commissions involve a tremendous amount of research in order to bring the character to life, portraying not just an amazing likeness, but also reflecting the qualities for which the person was known.
Society Talks: Harvey Tordoff reports.
Venue: The South Downs Memorial Hall, North Street, Midhurst, GU29 9DH Date and Time: Usually the 3rd Thursday in the month at 7pm Our programme for 2019 continued with a varied selection of subjects and speakers.
Philip chose this occasion to announce he is donating a lifesize bronze statue of Dante to Midhurst: in recognition of its contribution to his successful life in Cocking. This magazine will run a feature article on this generous gift when more detail becomes available as it is sculpted and located.
In May, Midhurst-based Alan Chalmers, who has looked after VIP guests at Wimbledon's Centre Court for 40 years, gave a unique insight into what happens behind the scenes at this most iconic of sporting venues. He had anecdotes of many of the celebrities in that period as well as the tennis stars. As Dan Maskell would have commented: “Oh, I say!”
After our usual holiday break in August we welcomed Jonathan Russell as guest speaker in September. Jonathan is CEO of Cowdray Estate and as, earlier in the year, there had been some hostility directed at the Estate from certain individuals and organisations in Midhurst we anticipated a lively evening. The hostility had arisen because the Estate owns land at The Severals and had expressed interest in the potential for the quarrying of soft sand. In fact, the decision to remove The Severals from the list of quarrying sites was made by SDNPA the week before Jonathan's talk, and in the course of the evening he could focus on the relationships between the Estate and Midhurst, and the Estate and the Environment. A large audience gave Jonathan a very warm reception at the end. As well as being informative this was a valuable exercise in bridge-building.
This was followed by a return visit to Midhurst of Ian Gledhill. In 2018 he entertained us with tales of Magnus Volk, the eccentric inventor. This time he spoke about Art Nouveau. Ian showed us slides of some stunning buildings with Art Nouveau features, the majority in Brussels and Paris, but he traced its origins to the Arts & Crafts Movement in Britain. Eventually, the movement evolved further with the establishment of the style that became known as Arts & Crafts – with Renee Macintosh leading the way. But that's another story, which we might get to hear at a future talk.
After writing this, but before publication date, we expect in October to have been entertained by Bertie Pearce, magician extraordinaire.
July saw the return of Philip Jackson, the locally-based sculptor with a world-wide reputation. The Memorial Hall was full for this event, and the audience was rapt as Philip took us through the back stories of some of his works. There are two distinct sides to his sculptures. His gallery work, often depicting human emotion by body language rather than by facial expression, and his public
We wrap up this year’s programme on November 24th with a talk by local estate agent Nick Ferrier. Over the years he has been inside many of the more interesting properties in and around Midhurst, and we are intrigued to know what he will be able to reveal about what is behind those closed doors!
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Midhurst Magazine. Issue 29, April 2019
‘Stop Press’ 2020 Talks Programme News This programme is still under development. Here are just some of the topics already confirmed. • Solar power - it’s a gift • The Civil War Siege of Chichester • Canine Partners • Water, water, everywhere • Fine Winery • Art Nouveau. For an up-to-date list, check the Midhurst Society website. Look out for our Facebook announcements and Posters around the town.
================= Answers to ‘Where are they’ on page 14 (a) Bell tower on the house at the entrance to the Midhurst Cemetery at the top of Carron Lane, on the edge of the Common. (b) Bell tower of Former Roman Catholic Church building on east side of Rumbold’s Hill, Midhurst (see also article by Bridget Howard, on page 25) Answers to ‘So You Think You Know the Area’ on page 17 Across: 2. Selham 3. Henley 7. Trundle 8. Selhurst Park 9. Singleton 10. Blackdown Down: 1. Redford 4. Liphook 5. Petersfield
============= Winter is a Coming In Something to miss today: when those milk bottles with silver tops used to get sampled.
But then we do still get Christmas cheer, in those long dark days!
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