mode| still hungry wrong turn, and it’ll be as if you’re in Pasadena on the morning of the Rose Parade. Luckily, Julia and the rest of the staff know their way around town. If you need help, don’t hesitate to ask, because unlike the Olive Garden, at Frankie’s, they don’t treat you like family. But they’ll treat you like a welcome guest, whom they want back. FRANKIE’S RISTORANTE BAR ITALIANO 80 Main Street, Lenox, MA 413. 637 4455 frankiesitaliano.com
THE OLD MILL My first visit to The Old Mill was two weeks after we moved into our first house upstate. Over the past two decades we have probably dined there about 50 times. Having worked in the food industry all my adult life, I’m aware and acknowledge that every restaurant has an off night. The stars don’t align, deliveries don’t arrive, some members of the staff are undergoing breakups, the chef is having a breakdown. I’ve been witness to it. I’ve been part of it. Even Le Bernardin, my favorite restaurant on earth, stumbled once (but only once). But I have never, ever, had a bad meal at The Old Mill. It may be the most consistent restaurant I’ve ever known. Maybe their strength stems from the sturdiness of the more than 200-yearold grist mill that it inhabits. Maybe it’s because I think I can count on less than two hands the staff changes in the past decade. Perhaps it’s the personal connection that the staff has with a majority of its clientele, almost all of which are residents of the area, not tourists. Or maybe, they’re just darn good at what they do and restrict themselves to exactly that. The Old Mill doesn’t tout its menu as farm-to-table (though their food sourcing at the bottom of the menu infers that). The kitchen staff isn’t foraging in the hills of South Egremont. I’ve never been served a dish with foam, or heard pig cheeks, uni, ostrich or almond milk pudding recited as specials. They don’t entertain guest chefs, Peruvian bistro week or offer seven-course prix fixe with wine pairings. But chef/owner Terry
