Collection for 'Designers Remix' - Report

FASHION DESIGN FINAL EXAM PROJECT THEODORA CUCU THAIDE4B

Guidance Teacher: Trine Ravn Vestergaard Teko Denmark July 2013

TABLE OF CONTENT

1 2 3 4

Introduction

Page 3

Company

Page 4

Problem Formulation

Project •

Design DNA

Page 7 - 25 •

Collection Development

Product

Trend research

User

Inspiration, Theme

Organization

Sketching Process

Target group

5 6 7 8

Page 5-6

•

Key items

Hangtag Design

Page 26

Conclusion

Page 27

Conclusion

Page 28

Appendix

Page 29

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INTRODUCTION With the aim of becoming a Fashion Designer Assistant, I have based my final exam project on a collection development, in order to reach once again all the knowledge necessary in this field. Designing garments is one way to express myself by creating something palpable that I leave behind..

I name fashion the art of limitless creation, following the laws of functionality, beauty and innovation. I get inspired from all the shapes I am surrounded by and I mostly like to challenge myself by choosing random objects, songs, moods, stories and use them as inspiration. I believe inspiration is the key to discover newness in fashin design.

I choose Designers Remix Signature as company, for its designer’s philosophy and mission, inspiration and success. With the wish of reaching the designers level, in my project I have analyzed the company and create a new collection in the brands style, trying in the same time to move it one step further through high quality materials and exclusivity.

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2

COMPANY

“thatI want to create forever items - fashion women will keep in their closets for decades.

”

Designers Remix, founded in 2002 by Danish designer Charlotte Eskildsen serves as an empowering brand that takes an architectural approach on sophistication. The design continues the path between femininity and androgynous tailoring creating an ambiguous atmosphere, characteristic to Charlotte Eskildsen.

Designer’s mission is to make women feel beautiful wearing her clothes. She strongly wants to spread her philosophy and belief, that everyday can be a joy and it’s all about feeling beautiful.

The brand is treasuring the Danish vibe creating for positive women who dare to be different. Available in over 600 stores the brand has a global success. The designer has been nominated as the ‘Best Danish Designer’ by 400 fashion professionals in the first Dansk Fashion Awards. D R does not only provide high end clothing, but also shoes, bags and other accessories.

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PROBLEM FORMULATION Designers Remix brand is founded by Danish designer Charlotte Eskildsen. It is serving as a chic and empowering brand inspired by architectural approach and sophistication, treasuring Danish vibe and designer’s desire to create feminine and characteristic beauty for positive women, who dare to be different. Designers Remix is constantly following the path between femininity and androgynous tailoring looks and atmosphere.

I have chosen this brand as inspiration because of the touch of minimalism in the design. On the other hand I was also looking for feminine lines and Designers Remix blends both, therefore I have settled to make a collection inspired by.

Analyzing the company’s annual collections I have discovered the strong and obvious inspiration and theme that is the basis throughout all shows. For example A/W 13/14 the key words for the theme were: white, nurse, blonde, hospital; inspiration used at the show opening:

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Therefore, after analyzing the company’s approach upon the fashion industry, I have realized that the theme has a strong focus, being usually obvious throughout the final shows, outfits, items and accessories.

The project is aiming to create a collection development and its focus upon the theme and inspiration. The auxiliary questions will lead the steps into the analysis; therefore the design DNA is the first step, which will include a widely explanation of the philosophy and concept of the comTaking in consideration the designers philosophy pany, the analysis of the product, user, culture (which stands for creating imperishable, forever and organization as well as visualizations of the items for women) is relevant in order to choose previous collections. a theme which cannot affect it. Moreover keeping the brands identity with using a thematically After finding out the values of the company and strong inspiration can be a a seasonal problem the seasonal trends, the second question will and challenge for the company, so I have come help with settling upon the theme and start the up with the question: sketching process.

What would be the best next strong theme for the upcoming Designers Remix Collection for SS 14?

The key items play a big role in Designers Remix collections. When it comes to articles and people’s perception about the brand, we often find fashion critics mentioning the key items of Designers Remix collections seasonally. Therefore I have chosen this question not only to sum up the collection which will be from 15 to 20 styles but also to connect the sewn products 2 to 4 which will thus represent the key items.

The following questions will be analyzed as well in order to solve the problem statement and to lead to a smooth collection development: 1.

What is Designers Remix Design DNA? 2.

To which extent the upcoming collection should follow the key inspiration more than the seasonal trends in order to keep designers philosophy alive?

3.

What would be the final collection’s key items?

Methodology Having the collection development idea as basis and based on the company design DNA analysis, I am going to create new styles for S/S 14.

The sketching process will be developed using tracing forms and morphing silhouettes methods as well as trend research.

The final collection will be presented also through a sales book, process portfolio and the collection’s key items as prototype products.

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DESIGN DNA Designers Remix Desing DNA analysis is based on the following collections: S/S 12, A/W 12, S/S 13, A/W 13.

The brands DNA will not only help me blend with the design but also understand the target group.

Having the overview will set up the basis of my creative ideas for the upcoming collection S/S 14.

Moreover is the first step to finding the next theme of the upcoming collection through analyzing the other collection’s themes and finding the in between links.

It is also important to shot the backstage mood and styling in order to find a suitable theme.

Taking a look into previous collection we can find obvious themes which can describe each seasons mood: ‘Sailor’ from S/S 12 – rope and nodes used by sailors of fishers, the summer feeling is clear through light colors, stripes and flowy materials; ‘Astral’ for A/W 12 - clear colours shining, bright frozen but joyfull look on lips, asymetrical cuts and minimalistic extraterestral lines, reinvented black dress, and the head covered. For S/S 13 the designer took an idea of the officewear combining it with the usual used flow and summer feeling and colors, prints, but with a serious accent of white with clean cuts which could be dramatically themed ‘Clinical White’. A/W 13 keeps the clinical in mind and uses the obvious ‘Hospital’ theme for the cold winter.

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Product

User

Culture

Feminine with a touch of androgynous, clean cuts, boxy shapes but also light materials that gives flow trough movement. Asymmetry is also an aesthetic value present in most of the designs as well as the loose fitted pieces.

Accessories: Thematical hats, jewelry.

Colors: Contrasts: black and white, black and yellow, orange black.

Pastels: nudescales, grayscales, icecream, bluescales.

Materials: high quality plain, opaque and transparent fabrics: recycled polyester, viscose, elastan, silk. Stretchy materials: jersey with a heavy fall next to body. Certified organic cotton.

Functional: Due to the loose fitting the user feels free and comfortable. Not only the cuts but also the materials are giving nice feeling when worn next to body. The feminine cuts accentuates the beautiful female body figures therefore, each women will feel confident wearing Designers Remix. The clothes are practical and riches the functionality asset both physically and mentally. Moreover, taking in consideration the designer’s philosophy, the garments are well made so that they can last ‘for decades’.

Emotional: Beauty, femininity, positive, joyful, confidence, emancipation, fashionable.

Those are the key words in describing the wearer’s feelings in Designers Remix clothing.

Person: Charlotte Eskildsen is a Danish born director which has a strong wish to bring abstract minimalism to elegance.

Her unique designs manifest through artistic ideas and vision to create an avant-garde angle on modern classics such as tuxedo or the LBD. Organization: Designers Remix fashion house was founded in 2002 by Charlotte and her husband who worked as the CEO. Production based in Denmark.

The brand has three separate lines: D R Signature: abstract, minimalism, architectural angle, sophistication, geometric shapes, organic and asymmetric silhouettes, exquisite fabrics and 3D accents.

D R Remix 2 EME: French accent, pret-a-portret lines, sexy, elegant, tho urbanwear, tactile experiences, sensations, and twist in tailoring making.

Little Remix: Childrenswear line, cool, casual side of the adult line.Age 6-16.

Symbolic: Materials flow, materials combinations of dull with light. The brand does not use visible logo on garments and rarely excess of prints.

Collection plan: 30% dresses, 20% blouses, 25% trousers and shorts, 20% jackets, 5% skirts.

Available on website: accessories, tops, dresses, jackets, coats, skirts, pants, knitwear, shoes, and subcathegories.

Each collection vareys between 18 to 39 outfit sets. Styles are available in all sizes: from 25 to 44.

Prices: dresses from 400 to 3800, blouses 300 to 1600, trousers 899 to 1400, jackets 2000 to 3800, skirts 700 to 1200. Currency- DKK.

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PREVIOUS COLLECTIONS

Spring/Summer 2012

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PREVIOUS COLLECTIONS

Autumn/Winter 2012

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PREVIOUS COLLECTIONS

Spring/Summer 2013

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PREVIOUS COLLECTIONS

Awtum/Winter 2013

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TARGET GROUP

The main Designers Remix target group is the brave woman. In fashion you can always think of the designs as idyllic but not the target too. It is important to see the brand in its realistic existence in order to understand its true values.

I believe in designing for women who might do have flaws but with the help of the pieces they become sophisticated, elegant and confident, completing their longing for perfection.

According to the design and sizes, the age of the target market has a wide sphere. Narrowing to ‘Signature’ line though, it creates for women between 18-35 years old.

“For curious women with a lust for life, and willingness to explore own contradictions”.

Designers Remix woman is real!

COURAGE TO LET GO

COURAGE TO SLEEP IN

COURAGE TO BE MEAN

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TARGET GROUP

COURAGE TO LOVE

TO SPEND

EVERYTHING...

TO WORK

TO LIVE LIFE TO THE FULLEST

TO PLAY...

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COLLECTION DEVELOPMENT

The Collection will be developed step by step with the help of the trend research, inspiration theme and concept, sketching process, colors, graphics and a collection plan.

The trend research will define the extent of its strength compared to a possible theme and concept for the next collection. Taking in consideration the design DNA, Designers Remix is following the seasonal trends when it comes to colors, prints, but the theme is more obvious.

Taking in consideration the A/W 13 collection, white was a strong trend update, therefore the designer might have thought of a theme to fit beyond it and chose the hospital white spiced up with the nurse inspired accessories.

Moreover its philosophy of reinventing the classics beats the seasonal trends but blends with each of them in the same time.

Inspiration Theme Concept will be the strong focus of the collection development and the basis of the sketching process.

The key items can be understood as the most outstanding pieces from the entire collection and will finish the problem statements question.

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TREND RESEARCH

The trend research will be divided into the aspects relevant for the upcoming collection development: theme, key items and commercial updates.

For the spring summer 2014 the themes described hot summer, some creating a defense for the heat, bringing the tropical freshness, some revealing a future nature under the melting sun rays. Other themes stood for the digital movement and technology development.

As for the key items, we find: Boyfriend-fit tank with deep Vneck, Cascade cardigan: updated with a dropped-back shirttail-style hem,Beatnik cardigan,Boxy bolero, Fine cardigan dress, Floor-sweeper skirt, Double-vest dress, Body-con dress, Knee-length skirt, Mixed-yarn tunic, Snug crop top, Dolman-sleeve sweater, Sweater dress, Square tunic, Mixed-gauge crew, Preppy polo shirt, Fluted-hem knit, Draped-layer vest, Boxy crew-neck.

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TREND RESEARCH

The usual trends for colors and materials consist of a big variety for each style and design lines.

dramatic neon shades, mid-tones harmonized with neutrals. Military greens and navy blues still in the game.

Colors: Fresh and artificial greens and blues, translucent inspired and machinery made luminosity colors like bright blue, purple, green and gray scales, mix of vegetables colors, heighten floral pallets mixed with

Materials: handmade, shiny, flowy, 3D machine rendered, organic.

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INSPIRATION

The ideas for S/S 2014 are based on the design DNA’s core values and company’s philosophy and concept. Further you will find information about inspiration, theme, sketching process, colors, materials and collection plan.

Divided into subcategories as the trend research, the development will use the inspiration to create the theme, settle on colors, materials and key items.

All steps are shown in the process portfolio.

Due to the problem formulation, the main focus is the theme.

Inspiration and Concept:

Secondly, the key words: ash, Trying to keep in mind the com- smoke, freedom, drop, fresh pany’s philosophy and concept, start, movement, explosion, I have started by analyzing the metamorphose, chaos, invasion, melt combined with the brands way of finding a theme opposite: structured, closed which is choosing a relevant box, hermetical as the roots, trend and take it further into a theme which uses the weather the starting point. as a landmark( Example: trendexcess of white, weather – win- I am using the contradiction in order to hit the target group. ter, cold, theme- hospital).

Therefore, due to the season, the global worming and the explosion of colors as trend, I have firstly thought of heat, the way that a ray of sun hits and melts.

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Motto: The chaos that brings piece of mind.

THE DARK SIDE. The piece of mind is brought by the thought of having hope, hope for a fresh start. Using chaos as a natural way of lifestyle to describe once again the target group. I believe every woman is living in her own chaos which she finds comfortable. That is up until it explodes and becomes a load. The change is

built slowly helping her grow, flow up to the top, but never loose the roots.

The collection is based on the slow movement created by an enormous impact, it’s a reaction imagined as: a bullet going through a liquid, a fish moving on the bottom of the sea creating the rising, flowing sand; an explosion; a brainstorm.

brainstorm

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Theme Floating is the sum up of the entire image therefore the theme will be called “Underwater�, the environment where everything can look like the images described above.

The models will be sketched as wearing goggles as an obvious theme or waterproof head cases, as well as accessories like handmade necklaces out of river stones and fishing yarn.

As for the use of materials, the soft(floating) will be combined with dull(the roots), the shiny with mate, opaque and transparent and also together by over layering and patchwork.

Crepe satin with chiffon as soft silk, raw silk, shiny poly and cotton blends.

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In the same idea, the colors will be combined. Like the depth levels of the sea or the colours of the horizon. From colours, gradings will be made in order to find a suitable color from tone.

The trced images will also be morphed, edited and used as prints.

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Methodology In the process portfolio can be found the tracing form method which is the basis of the sketching process.

Next you can find the images used for tracing forms: Altough the collections sketching procces is flowing the obtained shapes, I have tried to keep the desing DNA in order to also get minimalistic lines and shillhouettes.

Other pictures used for tracing silhouettes.

After tracing forms, silhouette lines will be used to construct the garments. After chooseing certain shapes, each trace will go through several tryouts untill it reaches a posible shape that can be used for a piece of clothing.

Following the collection plan, there will be designed dresses, jackets, blouses/shirts, skirts and trousers.

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Other techniques Ink and thread: By dipping the thread into ink and placing it on the paper, folding the paper and pulling the thread fast, can be obtained each time an original shape. The shapes are relevant to the theme by expressing the floating and the movement. The shapes have not been traced but have been used for small details or cuts on the final garments.

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Collection Plan There will be created and shown in the salesbook 15 new styles for the S/S 14.

Dresses 5 Trousers 2 Jackets 3 Blouses 3 Skirts 2 In conclusion, as an overview of the styles, we find deep necks for blouses, cascade silhouettes for dress, dropped-back style hem, boxy dresses and blouses, floor-sweeper skirt and dress, double breasted jacket, body-con dress, knee-lengts, square cuts, flowy-hem lines, draped-layerst. In conclusion after the comparison, the collection is folowing the trends up to 50%.

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KEY ITEMS Two of the garments which are the most distingtive are sown as the key items of the collection.

Angel Shadow Dress and Lounge Blouse.

For technical details and pictures please see documentation and lookbook .

The blouse represents purity. It has clean round and boxy cuts, loose fitted sleeves to express the freedom and seethrough front to contradict the purity with the courage of showing skin, in the same idea the dark gray lining.

The dress is created to be eye catching and represent the dark side of the theme( black and gray) with the touch of hope( white). With oblic cuts and broken patterns, in a dull satin material combined with draped chifoon in a gray color scale: black, white and gray, attached on white satin to get the best tone out of each color.

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HANG TAG AND LAYOUT Hang tags For hang tag design I have chosen a minimalistic aproach.

Black and white as color combinations, doubled fabric tab closed by a small button.

The front is printed with the labels crown and “Designers Remix” abbreviation.

1.5 cm

6.8 cm

1 cm

3.4 cm

12 cm

ANGEL’S SHADOW DRESS Style no.: 000000 Size 34

Price: DKK

4 cm 26

~7 cm

DESIGNERS REMIX

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CONCLUSION

In conclusion, the chosen theme is relevant firstly, because it links with all the other brands themes.

Secondly, looking into the Design DNA of the new styles, and the total overview (page 24), they follow the trends but at the same level the inspirational theme, keeping Designers Remix ‘s philosopy alive. The theme is obviously present through accessories and flowy materials. In the same time, combined with the gheometrical shapes and lines, the DNA of the brand is kept.

The garments are high quality materials therefore the durability. They stand for reinventions of classics and most of the items colours and different shapes combined allows them to be called ‘forefer items’.

The key items would represent the focus in a runway show. The materials and diversity in silhouette lines has been the main reason for choosing them as key items. Taking in consideration their description (page25), they also stand for the theme essence.

Therefore, after the anlisys of every aspect of the problem formulation, we can state that “Underwater” is a relevant choice for the next Designers Remix Spring Summer 2014 collection.

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REFLECTIONS

During my project, my favourite part is getting inspired, exploring the theme and all its details for finding a new and innovative idea.

Throughout the creative developments, my mind and body are restless. It is also a challange not always knowing the result until I have the overview of a collection, that is the point where I might start over again or not. Realize what worked well and what can be improved for the next project but especially for the current one.

On the other hand when I recreate a session, it is important for me to remember that there are no mistakes, only lessons, and the lessons are part of the growth process, in order to keep my mind open. Another mind training step is putting the final vision into words, shapes, and finally garments.

When it comes to the chosen company, it was hard to find a problem statement, because I have chosen it for its appealing design in my opinion. Thus, the touch of my way of designing had to blend but also influence the new collection.

Designers Remix roughly looks like it takes the aproach of ready to wear only garments, easy to wear and an excess of basic items - taking in consideration the clothes available on the website, but the designer, like most of the talented and schooled ones, likes also to create for the small target who understands fashion. The key items and high fashion pieces are hard to get in possesion of. Furthermore they are telling a story and they are high fashioned.

Therefore, in my collection, I have chosen to focus on this idea, trying to take the brand a step forward by teaching besides the loyal customers, also the entire target, to dare, try and wear better.

In conclusion, I strongly believe that each step of this project, pinned wall, and garment sown, helps me grow as a designer, expanding my horizon and giving life to my visions.

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APPENDIX

Pictures: http://www.designersremix.com/ http://www.style.com/ http://wolfcubchronicles.blogspot.com/ http://WGSN.com/ http://the-electric.blogspot.com/ http://lefashionimage.blogspot.com/ http://photosdemode.blogspot.com/

Quotations: Charlotte Eskildsen

Information about the company: http://www.designersremix.com/

Information for trend research: http://WGSN.com/

Methodology: TEKO Collection Development Lecture Document “Idea Development”.

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