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August 7 - August 20 2014
June 6th - June 19th 2018
A different spirit Benalmadena is uplifting in more ways than one, discovers Iona Napier
AFTER my wife died I spent three years travelling the world to find the perfect place to spend the rest of my life,” explains Bob Bainbridge, who moved to Benalmadena two years ago. “And there is something very special about this town, something undeniably different.” He isn’t kidding. We’re on a sleepy back road in Benalmadena pueblo, heading towards an enormous gold monument glinting spectacularly in the midday sun that happens to be the biggest Buddhist temple in Europe.
Honour
A whopping 33 metres high, it was the final project of Buddhist master Lopon Tsechu Rinpoche, who was so smitten by Benalmadena’s multi-cultural mix that he built the stupa in 2003 in its honour. “The sense of calm and community feeling here is very strong,” continues Bob, who had quickly volunteered to become my self-appointed guide for the day. Touchingly, friendly Bob cut short his cana to give me a personal escort around the village, chucking in his abridged life story for free. Strolling around in surfer flip flops, with long grey hair, he is the very epitome of the sort of laid back, cultured travellers who would have first arrived in the village in the 1960s. Up here, in the hills, it is a very different feel to the heaving tourist meccas of Benalmadena costa, Torremolinos and Fuengirola far down below. The cluster of white houses sit at 280m and count on lovely sea views and a sense of green space and hills. “You’re close to the action but not in the thick of it, and there are some really good people here, not to mention great bars,” enthuses 68-year-old widower Bob, a reBREATHTAKING: Buddhist stupor and (inset) Bil Bil castle
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ICONIC: Watch tower in Benalmadena
tired electrician from York whose new home overlooks the stupa. As the temple represents peace, prosperity and harmony it’s good feng shui although not something Bob considered at the time. It’s also only one of Benalmadena’s many curiosities that intrigue all-comers. Enchanting Colomares Castle is another – an ornate palace built in 1992 by a certain doctor Esteban Martin in honour of Christopher Columbus – go figure. Without a single architectural qualification to his credit he did a stunning job with this unlikely Gothic hillside structure whose ornate towers and spires rise skyward like a fairytale illustration. Once used for falconry shows until locals complained about the birds preying on their cats, everyone loves it for its Hans Andersen vibe. And while you’re up here, don’t miss the Mariposario – another extraordinary attraction housing 1,500 exotically-coloured butterflies. The pueblo is a bijou gem of gourmet tapas bars clustered along narrow alleyways that emerge into picturesque floral squares. Restaurants like Longhorn del Sol, stylish tapas bar Gastro La Tajea, and Italian trattoria Palo Doro give the village a gastronomic edge. It’s not just Brits who flock to this enclave. Teresa Garcia, on holiday with her doctor daughter and adorable baby grandson from Madrid, waxes lyrical as they look out over the ocean from Colomares castle, getting to geographical grips with Benalmadena’s triple
Sanitas Seguros C/ Sagitario, 5, Arroyo de la Miel, Benalmadena - Malaga, 29631 Tel. 952 964 728 Mobile: 648 747 828 louisemetherell1@gmail.com Imetherell.pex@sanitas.es mgemovic.pex@sanitas.es
FAIRYTALE: The Hans Andersen style Colomares Castle
decker topography that epitomis- The Moors developed agricules the something-for-everyone ture, introducing sugar cane, figs, cliché – from feathered vultures grapes and mulberry trees from wheeling skyward to fodder for the East during the 11th century, culture vultures when the local down at sea levpopulation was el, where we can concentrated Bil Bil recalls spot Moorishwithin the pretty the age when inspired Bil Bil walled town. Castle, host to But that’s anMuslim foreigners countless modother story. Mine ern art expos continues downinvaded these and concerts. hill to Arroyo de shores Bil Bil recalls the la Miel, jutting age when Musout like a ballim foreigners incony between vaded these shores and brought the sky above and the sea below. huge prosperity to the pueblo in This is Benalmadena’s sharp the hills where Benalmadena’s end where the real business of story began. shopping, working and living gets
done. It’s also home to one of the resort’s most enduring family attractions - Tivoli World, open every day in June from 4pm to midnight and in July and August from 5.30pm-1.30am. From here, via the iconic Teleferico cable car, you can go up or down. Once you get used to seeing sea, and not snow, beneath your swaying cabin you can appreciate being lifted up to the peak of Mount Calamorro, over the A-7 road, with spectacular views and live shows in summer. If you prefer to walk to the bottom, take the route through stunning La Paloma park, a peaceful 200,000m2 urban oasis of
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SCENIC: Church in Benalmadena pueblo and (right) the port
greenery with shady lakeside rina while 10km of coastline can walkways and a menagerie of deliver the perfect beach – rocky surprising wildlife. cove, sandy strip or nudist colony They say the Spanish embrace - whatever your whim. siesta culture and Benalmadena Here you will also find the incredat 4pm presents strong evidence ibly popular Sunset Beach Hotel, to support this. probably the coast’s most sucBut down the bottom of town cessful place to stay, balancing I fall upon Irish bar El Chorrillo quality with value and rarely less where the mainly British clien- than 80% full. tele are discussing Brexit over Sybarites and socialisers head their pints of Guinness and G & for Calle Bonanza, where the Ts. Lounge Bar is the unofficial Guiri Iris Lawrence, 68, swapped Army HQ but most visitors end south London for the south of up at the port, the jewel in the Spain in her 40s, after a career resort’s crown. as PA for one of BP oil’s top ex- Winner of the ‘Best Marina in ecutives. She has some tales to the World’ award more than tell. once, it’s an allJust like Bob, white and more she came here down-to-earth The pueblo will on holiday to version of mulstill be there visit her friend ticoloured SoJill and ‘never retogrande Port, to soothe your ally left’. with pseudo“It’s changed a Moorish archihangover and lot here in 20 tecture and years with con- quench your thirst minaret domes siderable desuggesting velopment,” Iris Mr Whippy ice relates, gesturing at old photo- cream – and you can still get a graphs of donkeys and traps in 99 here. the street, taken just decades Designer boutiques, bars and ago. “But I still love it here.” restaurants do a roaring trade, Outside siesta time, breezy Be- especially after dark when the nalmadena Costa is undoubt- waterfront twinkles with rainedly the beating heart of town bow-coloured lights and the diswith its bar-lined beach strip and cos get going. pumping port. By day there’s scuba diving, SegTwo glorious kilometres of ways, bikes, dolphin cruises - it’s seafront stretch between the not for lazy landlubbers. ziggurat-shaped Benal Beach In my best Spanish I ask four apartments and the swanky ma- handsome seadogs basking
atop a luxury white catamaran in smart shirts if I can take their photo. Skipper Jason replies with an English ‘yes’. This working Brit guarantees to show you dolphins Monday to Friday and his two-hour booze cruises top Tripadvisor's list of outdoor pursuits in Benalmadena. Just down the promenade, Laura Castillon can take you on a 10-minute Segway tour of the marina to give you a taste of these curious pogo sticks on wheels. “I would say 70% of tourists here are Brits,” she reveals. “After that there’s around 20% Dutch and the other 10% is a melting pot with a tiny 1% of Spaniards.” She continues: “I should add that the English always behave impeccably and we love working with you.” Time to sample Benalmadena’s coolest bar, entirely made of frozen water. Essentially a walk-in fridge with blue walls, garish music and all revellers dressed in floor-length fur ponchos, if you’re seeking respite from the 40 degree heat, the Ice Bar has my full recommendation. So don your furs – whether for an elegant, on-board soiree or a spell in the fridge bar – and strut your stuff until the wee small hours. The pueblo will still be there to soothe your hangover and quench your thirst for peace and quiet tomorrow.
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BUSTLING: Tourists and locals enjoying Benalmadena beach
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Benalmadena has transformed dramatically since its modest fishing village days
Do I need health insurance? Need health insurance? Struggling to make sense of Spanish insurance policies? Look no further. Sanitasforexpats based on the Costa del Sol, has been created specifically for expats looking to take out a new health insurance policy. Seguros We spoke to Sanitas Sanitas’ Client Relationship Manager, Louise Metherell, about how health C/ Sagitario, 5, Arroyo deprivate la Miel, insurance could not only save expats a lot of time Benalmadena - Malaga, 29631 but also unnecessary stress.
Tel. 952 964 728 Mobile: 648 747 828 1. Why should Brits have health insurlouisemetherell1@gmail.com ance? Whilst the Spanish healthcare system is excellent, Imetherell.pex@sanitas.es the waiting times for appointments can be long. mgemovic.pex@sanitas.es With private health insurance it is significantly
Rolling back the years!
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T h o S The dev awa But day her Sitt gor its n But trad From the
shorter and sometimes the client can be seen the next day. It also offers a wider choice of doctors and hospitals which can be invaluable.
2. Why should they choose Sanitas?
Sanitas has a huge network of doctors and hospitals and as part of Bupa it enjoys the best facilities in Spain. We have over 40,000 professionals working with us.
BACK IN THE DAY: Benalmadena coast had the feel of Galicia’s Costa del Muerte in the 1950s, while its historic Torremuelle (above) has changed little
3. What makes Sanitasforexpats different to other insurance companies?
Sanitasforexpats was created specifically to help expat clients who may struggle with the healthcare system in Spain. We are renowned for our excellent customer service - we can book appointments, authorize treatment and due to our in-depth knowledge, we can recommend specific doctors. We also provide all documentation in English.
4. What services do you cover?
Sanitas covers medication, diagnostic tests, hospitalisation and surgical procedures. We also provide dental cover and funeral insurance.
5. How easy is it to insure with Sanitas?
It is a very easy process. There is a simple application form which can be completed online, over the phone or at our office.
6. What are the main issues expats face when dealing with health care abroad?
One of the main issues is the language barrier and having English speaking medical staff can make the experience a lot less stressful. Also, as a lot of companies only produce their documents in Spanish, it can be difficult to understand your policy. This is why we created Sanitasforexpats - to make sure you know exactly what policy you are taking out.
7. What advice would you offer to expats regarding health cover?
Make sure you understand the policy before you purchase it to ensure that you are getting the level of cover that you require. This is particularly important if applying for residency. Be careful of special offers that have very low starting premiums as they may suddenly double later! Read the small print!
8. How can expats get in touch with Sanitasfor expats?
By visiting our website: www.sanitasforexpats.es, calling us on: +34 952 964 728, visiting our Facebook page: SanitasForExpats, or by coming into the office in Benalmadena.
SURROUNDED: Bil Bil Ca
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T’S hard to imagine Benalmadena as anything other than the buzzing holiday hotspot it is today, but it was once a poor modest fishing village accessible only by dirt roads and nestled on a sprawling countryside reminiscent of the Scottish Highlands, or, closer to home, Galicia’s rugged Costa del Muerte. e town was transformed in the 1950s when it became among the first to be veloped into a resort for UK and European jet-setters who could afford a break ay from the likes of smoggy London and Berlin. t since the tourism boom throughout the 70s and 80s and the package holiy phenomenon of the 90s, hotels, restaurants and beach clubs have sprung up re at break neck speed - and it’s hardly surprising. ting just west of Malaga, a short drive from the airport brings you to 7km of rgeous sandy beaches packed with a multitude of restaurants and bars along newly improved promenade. t there are still remnants of the old Spanish village up in the pueblo, with its ditional Spanish architecture and culture. m churches to historic look-out towers, it’s comforting to see the remnants of ese now tourist hotspots still exist beyond just black and white photos.
astle today and 50 years ago
Costa del style
AFTER celebrating its first year of business in September, New Styles Hair and Beauty continues to dominate, offering the best beauty treatments on the coast. The salon is the brainchild of Lynn Montgomery who, having learnt the tricks-of-the-trade in Ireland, hopes to turn it into a recognised brand. 'Five star service at normal prices' is their motto and with treatments including waxing, massages, facials and nail treatments for both ladies and gents there really is something for everyone. Located in Arroyo de la Miel, the salon can also look after all your needs with regard to hair styling and colour. "Having set up shop over a year ago the response has been fantastic," Lynn told the Olive Press. Dubliner Montgomery says the Costa del Sol has it all. "Everything from the weather, the people and lifestyle is a dream. "I absolutely love it."
TALENTS: Lynn with employee
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Benalmadena has some great places to eat when you know where to look, writes Jon Clarke
Sunset dreaming With a huge range of facilities, activities and shows, it is no surprise that Sunset Beach Club is one of the Costa del Sol’s most successful hotels, writes Jon Clarke
Pasaje Malaga 2 Local 10 Arroyo de Miel Benalmadena info@nickysenglishacademycom 951 391 798 - 666 215 125 Opening times 16:30 - 20:30
Try Our Heated Indoor Salt Water Hydro Pool
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ITH its Padi dive school, gym and round-the-clock entertainment, you hardly need to look outside its four walls. Add in three restaurants, a supermarket, hairdresser and beautician and it feels like a town in itself. This is the Sunset Beach Club Resort, one of the most successful hotels on the Costa del Sol. Occupation has been up every year for the last decade, despite the recession, and the hotel caters for nearly 2,000 guests a day in peak season – and rarely under 1000 at any time of the year. And is it any wonder, with the amount of activities on offer, including aerobics, cookery and Spanish classes all year round, not to mention billiards, live music and power walking. And then come the weddings, with around two dozen in the key months of May and September alone. “We get over 90 a year and starting at €5,400 (40 guests) an event we think that is terrific value,” explains manager Mark Wardell. It doesn’t seem much. But, of course, by the time you have factored in the guests rooms, their meals and mini-bar tabs (the majority are Irish, after all), it becomes a profitable business for the hotel. Sitting on a fantastic head-
land next to two lovely beaches, it is perhaps no surprise that Sunset has continued to grow every year for the last seven, despite the recession. An incredibly well-run ship, the hotel - one of the biggest on the Costa del Sol - consistently delivers to holidaymakers from all around the world…. over 50 different nationalities this year so far! And it definitely does not scrimp and save on food, entertainment – or indeed on its fantastic rooms – having spent a whopping €22m upgrading its facilities since the Millenium, and millions more being spent to keep the standards up. Without a doubt the price/ quality level is one of the best in Southern Spain and the food in all three restaurants is excellent. Locals rave about the live concerts – some of the best on the coast - which are free to expats, as well as the beach restaurant and fantastic pool and playground area for kids. “My ideal guest never leaves the premises and is never in need of anything,” explains Dubliner Wardell. “Security and safety would always be our number one priority but on a day to day basis from the moment the cleaning team moves in at 2am to the last bar closing at 4 am our real job is to make people happy.” “We are now investing regularly to keep us at pole position on the Costa del Sol.”
Pick and mix
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N the bustling tourist hub that is Benalmadena you could be forgiven for failing to find anywhere genuinely decent to eat. With mass tourism the norm, hundreds of average Fish Alleystyle establishments bash out bog-standard fodder, whether it be in the port, sea front or up in Arroyo de la Miel. There are, of course, exceptions, one of the best being stylish Coast, in the heart of the busy marina. Owned by the talented Metro Group, which runs over a dozen restaurants on the coast, this attractive spot has tables overlooking the boats, or on comfortable banquettes in the seductively-lit interior. There is an It serves up an impressive mix of and international dishimpressive salad Spanish es, with a nice wine list to boot. I particularly liked the mix startsection with ers sharing platter for only 21 7 selections, euros, which included some real including sesame including Waldorf chestnuts chicken fingers and prawn and avocado cocktail. There is an impressive salad section with seven choices, including the world famous Waldorf salad, with goats cheese, apple, celery and grape. Main courses include a fabulous Wagyu beef burger, with smoked cheese, which is moist and succulent, as well as delicious lamb cutlets. Nearby you might also check out Jack’s American, as well as Gaucho and Metro for other decent spots in the poart. Up in the village, one of the best places to check out is Italian Pala d’oro, which is set around a patio and with cool, stylish in-
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NIGHT AND DAY: Luna beach is Benalmadena’s best chiringuito
VARIETY: Kaleido and Blankko
terior. Hosts Sandro, Alessandro and chef Matteo Manzato, from Venice, have a great repertoire and you will love the gnocchi stuffed with courgette and a natural goats cheese Asiago, especially imported from Italy, while the speck ham with rocket and walnuts and a balsamic sauce had just the right balance. A stunning dish of pappardelle with truffle comes highly recommended, while the wine list is appropriately angled towards top Italian vineyards. If modern tapas is more your thing, make a beeline to superb La Tajea, a hip spot in a backstreet of the casco historico. Set up by four local friends, it aches with stylish touches, in particular its lighting and upside down garden on the ceiling. But the food is also excellent - and superb value - with such chestnuts as blue fin tuna chops, which were delicious and tasty on the wallet at just €4.50. A beetroot ‘porra Antequerana’ soup was very original and almost as good as the ajo blanco, with pine nuts, grapes and cherry tomatoes, while the artichokes with jamon iberico and foie was rich
TEAM: At Palo Doro in the village and delicious. Down on the coast, it is well worth seeking out the amazing chiringuito Luna Beach, run by the nearby hotel Sunset Beach.
You literally couldn’t ask for a more romantic spot, right by the water with the waves lapping at your feet. Subtly-lit, this natural spot - all thatched roofs, simple deckings and rope fences - also counts on an excellent menu, at extremely good value. I particularly liked the grilled langoustines, which came with a choice of sauces and a very generous green salad, while the brochette of chicken and salmon looked great too. A starter of veggie spring rolls were excellent in sweet chili relish, while a rack of lamb is available for the more hearty eaters. A wine list includes the excellent Payoya Negra from Ronda, as well as the good value Habla de Silencio from Extremadura, at €22. Once you have been wined and dined, head next door to Salitos, for some of the best cocktails on the coast, and in a great position too. Also on a romantic tip, you must definitely take a look at Blankko, which sits under an old defensive fort in Torremuelle with views up and down the coast. Here, you sit overlooking the sea, with stylish white tables and plenty of creative flourishes.
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Benalmadena Costa Beachside
www.lunabeachclub.com | Tel: 952 579 401 Bar: 12.00h to midnight, Kitchen: 12.30h-16.30h & 19.30h-22.30h • Chillout music • A la Carte menu & BBQ • Special events • Weddings • Wifi zone
Benalmádena Marina 2,5km
100m
500m
fuengirola (BELOW TORREQUEBRADA CASINO)
10km
• cocktails and drinks by the sea • sunset beach club promenade • Open until late • www.sltbar.com