LIGHT YEARS AWAY!
The Olive Press takes a tour of some of the Costa de la Luz’s under-the-radar spots, as the largely unheralded coastal gem girds itself for discovery by British tourists
PERCHED upon the highest point in Chiclana de la Frontera sits the round cupola of the Ermita de Santa Ana.
The church is located on one of the fabled ‘seven magical spots’ in the sprawling town, lodged among salty marshlands just south of Cadiz.
In the 9th century, long before the chapel was built in 1733, it was an old watch tower from where the town’s defenders scanned the horizon. They were looking for the telltale sight of the dreaded Viking longboat.
Now, over a thousand years later, Chiclana is no longer a frontier town – but the coast it used to guard is preparing itself for another invasion from the north… from tourists!
The Costa de la Luz stretches from Tarifa in Spain’s most southern point, through the sparkling coastal fortress city of Cadiz, and up into
By Walter Finch Huelva.
It is a beautiful coastline dotted with stunning towns, like Vejer de la Frontera and Zahara de los Atunes, largely unscathed from the ill effects of mass tourism.
By flying under the international tourism radar, the Costa de la Luz has managed to dodge the fate of neighbours Sevilla and Malaga, where huge tourist demand has sent the cost of living spiralling.
So the recent announcement by airline Jet2 to open a raft of new routes to nearby Jerez has
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ALLURE: A Chiclana beach welcome (above) and the chapel of Santa Ana
THE HIDDEN COSTA
been met with some trepidation.
The new routes, from Manchester, Leeds and Birmingham, could see 30,000 Brits arrive each week from next summer. This for a region that has - until now - barely registered on the British tourist’s holiday itinerary.
Yes, of course, a few savvy travellers know of the charms of Vejer, Conil and, of course, Tarifa, particularly the ones who like watersports and wind, but most expats who live on the nearby Costa del Sol haven’t even ventured this way.
Which means that this stunning stretch of coastline has an extraordinary number of largely unspoilt gems to discover.
Tasked with exploring a less visited part of the coastline and finding some new hidden spots, I was delighted that in late June, the sight of a foreigner was vanishingly rare.
Chiclana’s eight kilometres of pristine beaches, for example, were populated almost exclusively by Spaniards enjoying the serene Atlantic swells. While the winery and salt mine tours were similarly taken up by their fellow compatriots, mostly
AFRICAN VISTA: Morocco looms large behind Tarifa and (right) an Arabic archway into Tarifa
BEST BEACH: Tarifa’s Valdevaqueros and (right) Vejer’s beautiful centre
From front page
tourists from Sevilla and other inland regions.
In the town itself, the narrow streets of the historic centre are full of interesting remnants of the Moorish era, such as the Arco Torre del Reloj, and littered with terraces offering cañas and tapas.
In Taperia La Flamenca, the beaming waitresses were all local lasses who live nearby. When asked what was the best thing about town, the three girls all laughed and said: us!
“I love the people here, the atmosphere of Chiclana,” said one. “All my friends and family are here – why would I want to move to Sevilla or Madrid?” It’s a refreshingly different reality from, say, the Costa del Sol, where the locals are increasingly pushed out of their own towns by Airbnb apartments and the influx of wealthy foreigners.
Just a 15 minute drive north is interesting San Fernando, an old naval shipyard in the hazy shadow of Cadiz’s bridges and container cranes.
It is another exquisite Spanish pueblo, populated with trendy bars that were active even before the buzz of the nightlife came out to play.
The walkable, slug-shaped town is well-connected to Cadiz and Jerez by a commendable tram system.
In its glory days, it served an important role in Spanish history, being the site of the first Spanish parliament, known as the Cortes de Cadiz.
The early 19th century was a period when Spain
flirted with democracy - even before the traditional European democracies of Britain and France.
San Fernando is also strategically located on the Isla de Leon, being connected to the mainland only by a parade of bridges.
It’s this island that lent its name to San Fernando’s most famous son - flamenco
HERE LIES HERCULES!
The tiny island of Sancti-Petri, off Chiclana, has a 17th century castle, which Romans believed was built on top of Hercules’ burial site.
The mythical hero is believed to have founded nearby Cadiz city and the Phonecians built a temple to their god Melqart on the island.
The Romans later replaced the structure with a temple dedicated to Hercules, who they believed
singer Camaron de la Isla (above), which translates as ‘Shrimp from the Island’.
Camaron was born into a poor neighbourhood, where he shared a single room with his entire family who in turn shared one bathroom with another six families.
Today his house has been transformed into a shrine to the man who put San Fernando on the map, and his outsized influence on bringing flamenco music into the mainstream.
While some fans were clearly mesmerised, renovations have turned the old abode into a lifeless white adobe box, completely robbing it of what it must have been like in Camaron’s childhood in the 1950s.
On the other side of Cadiz but still within its gravitational pull lies another naval town, but this one very much active.
Rota is home to several kilometres of white sandy beaches, chiringuitos and restaurants – and an enormous American naval base larger than the town itself.
was buried there.
Deemed strategically significant, the castle became a military fortress until its decommission in 1918.
The historic site can be reached by ferry from Sancti-Petri marina or by kayak if you’re feeling adventurous and once there you will find a bar with panoramic sea views.
46, told the Olive Press. “They behave very wellthey are even politer and more respectful than the Spanish.”
Maria, who runs the Great Day Coffee Diner offering American breakfasts, milkshakes and waffles, left Rota for the US when she was 19.
After nearly 20 years driving an 18-wheeler truck around the American continent, she is back to help care for her elderly mother.
I soon found myself talking to a young American ensign, who identified himself as ‘Garcia’, and told me his destroyer had just returned from a tour of the Middle East and Israel - ‘nothing happened
It served an important role, being first Spanish parliament site
Somewhat incongruous on the tranquil ‘coast of light’, Naval Station Rota – as the US military refers to it – is home to some seriously impressive firepower belonging to the US 6th Fleet.
Four American Aegis destroyers are permanently stationed at the base, tasked with protecting south-western Europe from missile attacks.
And the Americans are certainly not seen locally as an unwelcome occupying force, but a valued part of the community, which at times feels like Costa Americana.
Among a coast almost devoid of foreigners in the summer, the twang of American-accented English stands out almost as much as the American-style diners and Irish bars.
“We love the Americans here,” Maria Almagro,
though.’
“When the big ships come in to restock, like the aircraft carriers, all the Americans hit the town to go out and party,” explained Maria.
“And sometimes they send an Uber to pick up a huge order for 40 people in the base.”
And she continued:
“There’s literally never any trouble. They’re good people. And us Spanish, we love Americans. Because they come with money.”
A short hop away lies Chipiona, a charming workday beach town, that would find itself completely under water should a tsunami hit.
This was graphically illustrated by the curious ‘What to do in case of a tsunami signs’ that littered the beachfront.
The seemingly fanciful signs – and evacuation plan they laid out – were erected in preparation for last November’s tsunami drill, which crowned Chipiona as Spain’s first ‘tsunami-ready community’.
And while the last major mega wave to hit Spain came nearly 300 years ago during the 1755 earthquake which wiped out Lisbon, the region is not so far from the boundary between the Eurasian and African tectonic plates. Some might even say it’s due another one.
While no tsunamis struck as the Olive Press enjoyed the town’s hospitality, a series of freak rain squalls – almost unheard of in late June – caused their own aquatic chaos.
The unseasonal watering caused the town’s chefs to dash out into the marshes to hunt for something that would never usually be on the menu in summer.
So at night, it was peculiar to see hasty handmade signs declaring ‘WE HAVE SNAILS’.
The Olive Press could not turn down the opportunity to try such a rare delicacy at the Pide Y Come restaurant. It was a charming eatery run by local couple Paco, 32, and Caridad, 29, who met one day while out walking their dogs.
Paco explained that the sauce was not made from garlic, but from basil,
cumin, and – as he took a breath to list the rest of the ingredients, he suddenly closed his mouth and took on a sly smile.
He was not about to reveal the secret family recipe to a nosy journalist.
The menu was full of such unique offerings, the ingredients of which the couple would sooner die than give up, including ‘Aurora’s meatballs’ – Aurora being Caridad’s grandmother.
When told that they could perhaps expect a lot more British and foreign tourists in future summers, the pair shrugged and said it could ‘only be a good thing’.
RECIPE FOR SUCCESS
THE Costa de la Luz’s celi- brated culinary prowess is down to the local surround- ings, which produce some of the best quality ingredients in the world.
The obvious examples are sherry, fish and the won- derful beef from the classic brown ‘retinto’ cows, which you often see wandering around in the hills and even on the beaches.
Of course the amazing ‘almadraba’ bluefin tuna (top), caught nearby (above), is spec- tacularly good and the vegetables avail- able are also of a high quality, particularly from Conil.
Another reason is the type of tourists who visit the coast, which has seen a distinctly more refined crowd than its nearby rivals on the Costa del Sol. They demand quality and are prepared to spend to get it.
CHARMS: History in Chiclana and grandeur of the town hall in San Fernando, once Spain’s first parliament
IDYLLIC: Sunseekers sit on Rota beach overlooking Cadiz
•
UNDERWATER WORLD
Discover the teeming aquatic wildlife of Tarifa with Jon Clarke
UNDER the sun-kissed sea there lies an alien world, teeming with colourful life that makes the coast’s crowded beaches and bars seem a million miles away.
Scuba diving, a thrilling yet serene sport, abounds all around the Straits, and in particular near Tarifa.
Whether you are an experienced diver or a novice, you will be struck by two underwa-
ter wow factors: the clarity of the water and the infinite variety of fish. A number of companies operate out of Tarifa harbour taking punters of all experience levels on dives and offer official PADI courses.
After a thorough land-based briefing on safety, science and equipment from my dive manager, at Yellow Sub, one of the longest running firms in busi-
ness, we kitted up and made our way to the boat.
Given that my previous introduction to scuba diving was a university swimming pool, I was blown away by the vivid underwater landscape and clear visibility. The sheer number of aquatic species of all sizes and colours of the spectrum is astounding.
We chugged around Tarifa’s mini island, Isla de la Palomas, investigating every nook and cranny, marvelling at the magnificent orange anemones clinging to the rocks.
Sassy sea cucumbers, evil-looking moray eels with their malevolent mouths agape, fish that camouflage themselves in the sand… even Sir David Attenborough would wax lyrical!
At one point we came upon a pair of octopuses entwined in a passionate embrace, and, feeling like a third wheel, I edged away, but soon realised they were fighting over the best hiding place under the rocks. It was fascinating to watch and, as the victor took up residence, the loser powered off to regroup.
Whether you’re a rookie or an expert seeking fresh challenges, Yellow Sub, or other companies such as León Marino will show you a breathtaking underwater world you’d never imagine existed.
PIC
Leon Marino
Whale of a time
WE are about equidis-
tance between Spain and Morocco in the deepest part of the Straits of Gibraltar.
Flying fish, turtles and two types of whale are basking around, feeding and luxuriating in this food-rich marine paradise, some 15 minutes offshore from Tarifa. And that’s not to mention the dolphins, including a pair of Bottlenose, who are shepherding their calf, that is
apparently no more than a week old.
Soon we have found a school of dolphins swimming around the boat and, being so calm, we can see them clearly under the water.
It’s an almost religious experience for the boat-load of tourists, as the stunning mammals clearly swim over to take a closer look at us.
Flying fish, dolphins and giant turtles pay a visit on a trip into the Straits, writes Jon Clarke
“These two are particularly inquisitive,” pipes up a voice from the cockpit above, as one particular pair come sniffing up to the boat, then swim underneath at an amazing speed.
The words come from Dr Katharina Heyer, a remarkable woman of 75 years of age, who has become, without a doubt, one of the world’s authorities on sea life off the tip of southern Spain.
It’s her 20th year working with
her foundation Firmm, which was set up after she was guided to Tarifa to see whales and dolphins by a ‘spiritual man’ in 1998.
“I arrived on a really rainy, awful day to find no whale boats, just fishermen, and had to rent a diving boat to take me out,” she explains.
last year she was awarded an honorary doctorate from the University of Basel.
Then running her own fashion company in Switzerland, she visited the area to find nobody organising trips to see the mammals and almost no research on them.
It may not have been perfect weather conditions, but what she saw completely changed her for good.
While she had long enjoyed diving holidays with her teenage sons in the Caribbean and the Maldives, seeing a group of Pilot whales and Bottlenose dolphins had a strong and immediate impact on her.
So moved was she by these large and graceful mammals that she quickly moved out to set up her ‘respectful whale watching’ foundation in Tarifa and has never looked back.
Indeed, so respected has been her research into the mammals over the last two decades - in particular her sensitization work for them - that
There are now a handful of companies taking visitors out to see the mammals from Tarifa, and on most days they can expect to see Sperm whales, Pilot whales and even Orcas, not to mention various types of dolphins and many other fish.
It is one of the best places in the world to see them, with the currents bringing a lot of food from both directions, explains Katharina.
However, this brings in itself severe risks, as they are entering one of the busiest waterways in the world with more than 300 freighters and other sea traffic passing every day.
Indeed, as you look out into the Straits you are witnessing a battle for survival.
“The lives of dolphins and whales are at risk from ferries getting faster and faster, the noise from shipping traffic and more,” she explains.
“We are trying our best to monitor their numbers and do our best to minimise the issues they face.”
CONNECT WITH NATURE
A sustainable and unforgettable journey in the Strait of Gibraltar
THE Strait of Gibraltar acts as a unique passage between the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea. Here, a complex current system brings nutrients to the surface, creating a rich ecosystem teeming with cetacean life. We can help you experience the Strait of Gibraltar with minimal noise and emissions, fostering a deeper connection with nature.
At Turmares, our passion for wildlife and the environment drives us to offer responsible and respectful whale watching experiences. Over the years, we've encountered a diverse array of marine fauna, birds, and of course, cetaceans. We share a deep respect and connection with these incredible creatures.
In our commitment to continuous improvement, we've designed a new hybrid scientific boat. This vessel prioritises minimal environmental impact, ensuring a peaceful experience for the magnificent mammals we encounter.
The electric engine allows for near-silent operation, enabling us to hear the cetaceans in their natural state. Curiosity often draws them closer to our quiet vessel. For an even more immersive experience, the boat is equipped with hydrophones and cameras.
This new vessel is ideal for:
● Photography: Capture stunning images of the Strait's wildlife.
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We also offer larger boats: Jackelin and Pirata de Salvora. These vessels have greater capacity and boast underwater viewing capabilities. With a variety of options, we can tailor your trip to meet your specific goals, whether it's speed, distance, or underwater exploration. Let us help you discover the magic of the Strait of Gibraltar!
● Scientific Research: Provide a platform for valuable research activities.
Huelva
VEJER de la Frontera is Andalu-
cia’s definitive frontier of food.
The small hillside town has more good restaurants per capita than perhaps San Sebastian, and is easily up there with nearer rivals Marbella, Ronda and Sevilla.
Its amazing mix of culinary talent coupled with its variety of quality ingredients, makes for a genuine culinary melting pot.
Anyone planning to open a restaurant here would need their head’s testing unless they had years of experience at a Michelin star level.
So when the most recent arrivals Jaime and Alejandra set up their new joint, Narea, it was comforting to know they had met at three Michelin star Celler de Can Roca, in Catalunya, while counting on further experience at Madrid’s top restaurant Diverxo, recently voted 4th best in the world.
“We knew the bar was set incredibly high here,” explains Jaime.
How Vejer de la Frontera - the food capital of Cadiz - began to entice foodies in from around the world, writes Jon Clarke
So that would be taking one pinch of seafood savvy, one grating of mountain fare and a giant wave of local vegetables onto the chopping board.
It’s an important mix that has left the white town bubbling over with excellent places to eat, whether you’re after a full sit down or just a bunch of tasty tapas.
“They should be doing university studies on the success of Vejer’s food revolution,” explains Alberto Reyes (above), who opened his restaurant 4 Estaciones in the town in 2017.
“Just when you think it might peak it picks up again and we have to constantly work on upping our game to survive.”
Fellow restaurateur Javier Duenas, from Madrid - whose hotspot Garimba is the place for people watching while dining well - adds: “We all pride ourselves on working incredibly hard, never standing still and keeping the prices down. And we all work hard to keep the bar set high.”
Forget its amazing beauty, its extraordinary location and its remarkable views.
“But because I come from nearby Cadiz and Alejandra grew up in Malaga, we know the coastline well and how to make things work.”
for within a ten mile radius you’ll find so many other hidden quality gems.
I spent a long time travelling around the nearby area for my book Dining Secrets of Andalucia a decade ago and was shocked to discover so many amazing places to eat.
Indeed, I still await my regular journey up to Patria, a ten minute drive from Vejer, with trepidation every Spring.
The Danish couple who have run this place for over a decade, Ase and Thomas, are my favourite restaurateurs in Andalucia. They not only have the most amazing eye, but their choice of dishes and continual changes is awe-inspiring.
“I’m forever experimenting and trying new things,” explains chef Thomas, who also runs a natural juice business. “And we realise the only sure way to survive here is to guarantee quality.”
For me, Vejer’s main draw is its competitive chefs and the freshness of its ingredients.
And don’t just look in the town,
It was during a holiday in Vejer two decades ago that I first stumbled over the seminal local restaurant Trafalgar, named after the nearby naval battle. It, appropriately, stood out like a lighthouse in what was then a true culinary desert and served up a fabulous mix of local and national dishes, all with some great twists. Even better, right across the square was Califa, a charming hotel with a hidden restaurant in its courtyard garden, focusing on dishes from across the Straits.
Opening in 2002, it was clear that its British owner James Stuart, was really working hard to compete and even, improve on the quality of his close neighbour.
“Apart from Trafalgar the food was so boring back then,” he explains. “There was nothing new, no Chinese, no Indian, no Japanese, and so we hoped to do something different.
“It didn’t take long to work out that we had to open a Moroccan restaurant, particularly as all the ingredients were literally on our doorstep, with the exception perhaps of couscous.” He continues: “The two restaurants ended up setting the standard for the future.
STUNNING: The view from Teteria, a dish at Califa and Garimba (below)
SELLING THEIR WARES: From local children to Alberto at 4 Estaciones and Jaime and Alejandra at Narea
“We knew we had to match Trafalgar for service and we tried to create our own niche,” continues the father-of-two, who landed in Vejer three decades ago to open a cycling business.
“From then on anyone who opened a restaurant in Vejer had to be at our level…and from about 2010 as the recession ended things started to take off,” Within the next few years the town could count on perhaps a dozen new places to eat, including el Muro, Las Delicias, Judería and Casa Varo, while outside town in the nearby hills and on the coast you had Castilleria, Venta Pinto, Campero, Antonio and La Duquesa.
My favourite country places, aside from Patria,
were up in the tiny hamlet of Santa Maria.
It was here you have the amazing meat joint Castilleria, which has continually got better and better, and the most charming spot in Andalucia, Venta el Toro. Authentic and unpretentious it is no wonder that American/Spanish celebrity chef Jose Andres, brought his daughters here for a recent food programme.
Little changed in decades, it is one of the last genuine redoubts of quintessential Andalucia, and the food, while simple, is absolutely delicious.
Another historical joint is the roadside Venta Pinto, which has been a stopping off point for travellers and tradesmen for centuries.
It was actually around in the 17th century, when known as Posada de la Barca, it put up and watered people visiting these parts.
Today, it is still doing the same, with some people taking a coffee, others a tapa and a cana and those-in-the-know a wonderful lunch in one of two wood-beamed dining rooms.
All in all it has been a remarkable turnaround for a town that two decades ago few people stopped at apart from to take a pee or grab a quick bowl of gazpacho en route to Tarifa, Cadiz or Jerez.
EVOCATIVE: Charms of Vejer old town and (top) dining at Califa Tapas on the famous Corredera street
Vejer’s Arabic history is brilliantly reimagined with its incredible hammam
IT is the perfect way to experience the centuries old hammam experience.
With a trio of pools; a Tepidarium of warm water, a Caldarium of boiling water and a Frigidarium of freezing water, you really do take a trip back to the days of the Moors.
Add in a steam and sauna room and a chill out space to take mint tea and you could be sitting in the Vejer in the 12th century. During the days of Al-Andalus travellers would arrive on foot or by horseback and head straight to a hammam.
Worn out and filthy they would head there to relax and get cleaned up before getting on with their trip.
All Arabic settlements had at least one and the ritual of cleanliness meant being closer to holiness and everyone used them. Vejer’s exciting new hammam can be found in the casco historico between the
VERY MOORISH
ancient Moorish Alcazaba castle and the former Mesquita (now the Church of Divino Salvador). Installed in an ancient merchant’s house,
it was created by local UK businessman James Stuart, who came up with the idea with his business partner Regli, while on a trip to Morocco in 2010. “We wanted to do something really special, something completely different for Vejer,” he explains. “And the hammam is not just great on a touristic level, but
also on a cultural level, helping people to understand and appreciate our rich Andalucian history.”
A wonderful experience, the cavernous space comes as a real surprise after entering via a simple front door off narrow Calle Eduardo Shelly.
After putting on Moroccan slippers, you pass heavy velvet curtains into a dark interior, designed by James’ wife Ellie Cormie.
As your eyes start to adapt to the dark, the rich red ochre walls gradually segway into lighter blues for the colder water areas. Dozens of candles light each corner, while the classical ceiling lets in limited light through a grid of small star openings. The circuit, which you are meant to undertake three or four times, is excellent for health and at the end you take your pot of fresh mint tea.
www.hammamvejer.com
HUELVA
The end of the Coast de la Luz has golden beaches and is just a hop into Portugal
THE Costa de la Luz is famous for its wide, golden beaches.
Indeed, Bolonia, near Tarifa, was named the best beach in Spain by Conde Nast Traveler last year, while the shores at Valdevaqueros, Playa Alemanes, in Atlanterra, and the quirkiness at Canos de Meca take some beating.
But they are just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to the region’s beaches.
Head further west and you find the province of Huelva. On the border with Portugal, it is Spain’s last chance to tempt visitors to stay,
and it certainly makes it difficult to leave.
It is home to the impressive Doñana National Park and stunning River Guadiana as well as 120km of mostly stunning coastline; all part of the Costa de la Luz. So, with so much to explore, which are the best beaches in Huelva?
MATALASCAÑAS
Perhaps the most famous of Huelva’s beaches, Matalascañas has long been a favourite spot for Sevillanos to visit in the summer. They are quite literally following in
HEAVENS
the footsteps of Neanderthals - in 2021 the fossilised footprints of a family of 15 Neanderthals from 150,000 years ago were found here.
An enormous ‘rock’ on the beach is in fact the remains of the 16th century Torre de la Higuera, built to guard against pirates and destroyed in the Lisbon earthquake of 1755.
Bordering on Doñana, it is a family beach with lifeguards and plenty of beach bars.
PUNTA UMBRIA
Punta Umbria is a vast sandy beach where the sand is golden, the sea perfect for a dip and the conditions great for windsurfing.
While it is an urban location, it is found in the Paraje Natural de las Marismas del Odiel, a UNESCO reserve which hosts hundreds of thousands of migratory birds, making it ideal for birdwatchers as well as sun worshippers.
Along the nearby Avenida del Oceano, check out the laid-back beach bars and live music venues, such as the Mosquito Club.
PUNTA DEL CAIMAN
Perfect for kids, the shallow, calm waters are great for playing.
This protected area is picturesque and clean, right next to the mouth of the Carreras River.
It is also close to the town of Isla Cristina so is convenient for a quick dip.
PLAYA DE MAZAGON
Despite its ideal location between Moguer and Palos de la Frontera, Mazagon beach is a natural paradise. Dunes, impressive rock formations and pine trees dot the 9km coastline, the longest in the area, and a sneak preview of the equally spectacular cliffs and beaches of Portugal’s Algarve, just across the border.
PLAYA DE CUESTA MANELI
If you’re looking for peace and quiet, this slice of the Playa de Mazagon is for you. The natural, wild landscape is broken
only by a singular beach bar. It is also LGBT, pet and nudist friendly.
PLAYA DE ISLA CANELA
The last beach before Spain’s natural border with Portugal, the River Guadiana, this is one the prettiest beaches on the Costa de la Luz.
The marshes and channels surrounding the beach make it not just a place to relax but to
appreciate nature. It is a far cry from the packed beaches of the Costa del Sol’s
IDYLLIC BEACHES: Matalascañas (left) and Isla Canela (above) are always popular but have plenty of space
LIGHT FANTASTIC: at Matalascañas (above), while (below) the Punta del Caiman has great views if the Isla Cristina
NATURAL BEAUTY: The Playa de Cuesta Maneli (main picture and inset) , while (above) the urban beach at Punta Umbria
packed tourist beaches.
Dreamtime
A pair of Iconic Tarifa hotels have become the true grande dames of the Costa de la Luz, writes Jon Clarke
SITTING by the Serpentine-size swimming pool of the Punta Sur hotel you mostly hear the trickle of water, the occasional squeal of happy children and the rhythmic strains of a tennis rally from the nearby court.
What I cannot hear is the famous Tarifa wind, which is brilliantly kept at bay by the clever planting at this wonderful beachside hostelry.
The sister hotel of the more famous Hurricane, just up the road, the Punta Sur has managed to carve its own furrow as a place better-serving families and those looking for space.
Sited on a verdant slope close to Valdevaqueros beach, it counts on hectares of grounds, hiding tennis courts, fountains, duck ponds and a peacock colony, including one ivory white mother guiding around her litter of three peachicks here, there and everywhere.
There are expansive lawns, a massage centre and gym and also a pool table in the big reception area, where dozens of amazing photos and paintings are always on display.
But what is gaining most plaudits these days is the incredible El Jardin restaurant, which is the classic hidden escape for a long, languid lunch or a romantic evening under candlelight.
The menu is local and seasonal with plenty of special touches.
The local tomatoes, with fresh basil and mozzarella are excellent, while the tuna sashimi is the perfect starter.
I was guided towards a fish of the day, which was Pargo, a rock fish from the area and it couldn’t have been better cooked.
Meanwhile the steaks and burgers looked amazing, as did the tuna steaks.
My suite at the top of the garden looked out over the grounds towards the sea, with Africa in the distance
I watched huge tankers steaming by and the occasional bob
of a kitesurf.
From here it is the most amazing walk or jog up the coast to the Hurricane hotel.
You simply hop over the main road and walk through scrub and sand dunes until you hit the beach, then take a left.
One of the most hauntingly beautiful stretches of coastline in Spain, you will likely meet nobody and the only buildings are the odd shack and a few demolished military pill boxes installed during dictator Franco’s reign.
After around ten to 15 minutes walk you will come to the Hurricane, a true oasis of calm that keeps getting better
by the year.
One of the most evocative hotels in Spain, this seminal enclave is where those-in-the-know come to kick back year after year. Said to have even included Queen Camilla, this hidden paradise is sited right by the sea and counts on two pools, one strictly adults-only.
comforting about the buffet in the beach bar at lunch, which is entirely earthy and local, cooked here on the premises and focusing heavily on vegetables.
In the evening you eat on the terrace nearby, where the guests dress up and glamour is the order of the day and the menu is a wonderful trawl of the very best ingredients of Cadiz.
There is a serious gym, plus a spa with sauna and yoga classes, plus just about any other sort of exercise can be arranged for you here, including cycling, horse riding and sightseeing. Little has changed here in decades and there is something undeniably
As the final rays of sun catch my wine glass, it feels like I could be in a film set, where the beautiful people dine before a night in say, St Tropez.
But this is glorious Tarifa, just an hour’s drive from the Costa del Sol. behind.
BROTHERS IN ARMS
The Hurricane Group is the life’s work of a trio of English brothers, the Whaleys, who bought the land back in 1985.
All three with different skills and different social circles, they formed a vision to turn a scruffy beachside hostel into one of southern Spain’s most emblematic places to stay.
“We each had our own strengths, but above all a love for the area,” explains Peter Whaley, 77, who divides his time between Ibiza and Tarifa, where he can still be seen out kitesurfing, surfing or increasingly windfoiling, almost every day.
Peter - whose son Liam is among the world’s best professional kitesurfers - had first landed in Tarifa in 1984 en route to Morocco, where his younger brother James owned an achingly hip hotel in Essaouira.
A keen windsurfer, he was amazed to discover that the winds continued to blow for almost 80% of the year and saw an opening to set up a rental firm for tourists.
Alongside Australian boardmaker Barry Pussell they opened a shack called 100% Fun that sold and rented windsurfs, plus his Dutch wife Terese’s clothes, from fashion label Graffiti Ibiza. With careful marketing and planning they had soon ushered in the celebrated Tarifa wind revolu- tion, an industry now worth tens of millions of euros every year. Back then, though, there was nowhere decent to stay so they bought a small ruined 12-room hostel across the road and started to renovate it.
This was where his brother Michael, 72, a talented builder and landscaper came in for his con- struction skills, as well as third brother James, who died in 2019.
The manager of 80s band Adam & the Ants and the producer of seminal films, Sebastiane and Jubilee, he was a genuine style guru, with an uncanny knack for the latest fashions. Under his watchful eye the place slowly turned into one of Andalucia’s hippest places to stay. While the gardens and vegetation have matured each year, full of ponds and during the pandemic the team, including Michael’s son George, a DJ, have worked hard to improve the chill out areas and drive the quality of the food upwards. The signing of a talented new hotel manager Greetja and a new executive chef, who has worked around South America, has really improved the menus and quality of food. Visit www.hotelhurricane.com or www.hotelpuntasur.com
TALENT: And not just Liam
FLYING HIGH
IT was perhaps only a matter of time that Liam Whaley would open his own kite school.
Having traversed the world competing on the international circuit and a former global champion, he has finally taken over the centre at Valdevaqueros beach, by Tumbao. Sponsored by Porsche and after a big investment, the school is one of the best to offer the latest in kite technology, as well as windsurfs and windfoils.
His team of talented instructors offer classes by the week, day or hour and a handful of half day sessions is enough to give you a good basis of all three watersports. While Liam is not always about, talented Mateo has been working on the coast for nearly a decade and has great knowledge and advice.
www.liamwhaleyprocenter. com
COSTA DE LA ‘HOOF’
LOOKING for a great horseback adven ture on the Costa de la Luz?
Tarifa’s Hurricane Hipica, run by world-class equestrian Klaartje Muijser from Holland, offers breath-tak ing beach and mountain rides. The horses are well looked-after, living shoe-free in the open fields at night.
A brilliant teacher and guide Klaart je is a genuine horse-whisperer who can often be found herding half a dozen horses around the area on her own.
In particular, a fan of the moun tain rides, she recommends a half day out, with a ‘secret’ stop ping off place where she and her team will set up a picnic table for lunch.
“The views up on the Penon are amazing, perhaps some of the best in Europe,” she insists.
For information, check out www.tarifahip.com
TARIFA is famous for its wind, which draws in many visitors looking to participate in the kite surfing scene.
But its beaches are more than just a place to practise tricks in the water: the ankle-deep white sand and, thankfully even, some sheltered spots, ensure there’s something for everyone along the 35-km coastline. Of course, it’s useful to have a car. But can you enjoy a beach holiday here without one? Regina Roberts investigates on foot.
Costa de la luz
Stung into action
IT’S gusting 45 knots and my lines have just got tangled with the only other kitesurfer within half a kilometre.
We’re two metres deep in the briny and with the waves crashing over our heads it is impossible to hear the urgent instructions our teacher is barking from the beach.
Could it get any worse?
Well for starters I am caught up with the only other student on my course – Stefan, a German, based in Zurich – and he is just as clueless as me. And second, just as I finally unhook the last of my four lines from his kite, I am jolted stiff from an electric shock from below.
Quite unsure what the hell is going on, in my panic I pull the red emergency cord, as I have been instructed to do. The problem is it is not the emergency cord I have pulled, but the emergency-emergency cord, (the one you are not meant to pull) – and next thing we are watching my kite go shooting off towards Africa. It’s like Apollo One as within seconds the 3.5m comet is almost out of sight as it tumbles and somersaults its way south at a rate of knots - 45 to be exact.
PLAYA CHICA
Located right next to Tarifa old town, Playa Chica (right) separates the Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean Sea.
Just 10 minutes walk to get there from the heart of the old town, it is small and can get a bit crowded at certain times of day, not to mention noisy.
But on the plus side there was no strong wind, which meant it was perfect for swimming and the water was calm and clear with no kitesurfers.
The only beachfront restaurant is El Chiringuito Lounge Beach, and due to its location, it’s a little pricier than other places in town.
Playa Chica is ideal for those wanting to relax on the beach with friends but still feel the lively atmosphere of Tarifa.
PLAYA DE LOS LANCES
Playa de los Lances (left) spans more than seven kilometres and is separated by the Rio Jara, making it an expansive beach that never feels too crowded.
While also close to the old town, the beach was a lot emptier and less overwhelming with a nice change of pace and seagulls in the sky.
It’s more windy, but was not too exposed and during the middle of the day, the wind is actually advantageous as the breeze offers reprieve from the heat.
The water at this end is not as busy with
The sport of kitesurfing leaves Jon Clarke in a tangle, after the first morning started with a nasty ‘shock’
When we finally clamber out of the sea, our Slovakian instructor is completely beside herself. She has been screaming blue murder from the beach and is only marginally consoled that nobody has drowned.
Luckily it is only a €250 beginner’s kite and, luckier still, one of only a dozen brave souls daring enough to risk this particularly crazy Tarifa morning (one of the windiest for months, I am told) zooms off after it.
A 10-minute walk down the beach later and he has fished it out, rolled it up and delivered it to us on the shore, before calling us a complete bunch of losers and shaking his bloodied little finger - cut by one of my lines - as proof of his endeavour.
Not a happy bunny, our instructor Veronica is at least cheered up when I tell her about the sudden electric shock that had led to my disgrace. It turns out I had stepped on a lenguado (or sole), a flat fish that lurks on the rocks. Now it
all makes perfect sense, she tells me.
I feel marginally better about the whole fiasco and somehow pluck up enough courage to get back in the water later that afternoon, when the wind has dropped just a little bit.
I had volunteered to undertake a three-day kitesurfing course with the team at Valdevaqueros beach, in Tarifa.
While some insisted it must be the start of my mid-life crisis, others just felt sorry for me. I, quite frankly, was terrified. Everyone knows how windy it gets in Tarifa. The wind turbines along the coast are going full tilt on my drive from Algeciras, and even my walk through the centre of the charming town got a little gusty.
But nothing compares to the sensation you feel when you first walk onto the beach with the kite in one hand and your board in the other.
I was practically knocked off my feet as I stood on the sand, half of which had quickly got into ev-
ery nook and cranny of my wetsuit, not to mention eyes, ears and nose.
According to locals, this is the windiest spot in Europe and has the best conditions for kite and windsurfing. So strong is the wind my instructor told me how a friend’s nine-year-old boy had
kite surfers, making it perfect for those just looking to go for a swim.
Father up on the northern part is characteristic of Tarifa’s windsurfing scene, full of brightly coloured kites filling the sky and with the continual sounds of surfers making splashes in the water.
The northern side of this beach is more difficult to get to although there’s a lot of parking for those driving their own cars.
Walking is hard and it may be best to get a taxi from the old town.
There are just as many kitesurfing schools along the northern part as chiringuitos.
This may not be the best place for those looking to simply lounge as on windy days you’re going to feel that sand in your face.
PLAYA VALDEVAQUEROS
By far the windiest beach is Playa Valdevaqueros, making it popular
among those wanting to participate in water sports.
A picturesque beach with large sand dunes (below) along its four kilometres, it is backed by various restaurants offering an array of food options.
There’s a lot going on and plenty of places with music playing through speakers, with Tumbao a top pick, while on the sand, you’ll see loads of people preparing their boards for the water.
a beach,
Others jump in and out of the sea or play football with friends.
Getting here if you are staying in the old town involves taking a taxi as it is even farther along the coast. However, this section of the main coast road is lined with hotels for surfers. As a result, this beach draws in visitors from around the globe, but you’ll have to take a taxi to get here most likely, as while there are the occasional buses, it’s not easy to find out when they come or leave.
been literally blown across their street earlier this year from one particularly enthusiastic gust. It seemed somehow inconceivable that I was opting for this intense sport, instead of quietly practising my golf swing. But there are some challenges in life worth undertaking and by the second day I had finally found some rhythm. Going through the discipline of rigging up your kite is all part of the learning process and the team at Valdevaqueros insist the safety side of the sport is carefully explained. You certainly feel more confident going out with a fully qualified instructor, even if our Eastern European belle had a bark on her worse than a London fishmonger.
confidence and by the third day when the board was introduced I was raring to go.
Sadly though, it is not just jumping onboard. With the wind still howling around the 35/40 mark and plenty of waves, it is anything but easy getting the board attached to your feet while lying in the water and trying not to sink, while still flying the kite.
Our European belle had a bark on her like a London fishmonger
After two days of learning to effectively fly the kite, we were slowly introduced to the water, first getting dragged one way (out to sea) and then dragged back in by the wind. It instilled
That said, by the afternoon I was finally floating with the board on my feet and actually standing up (albeit for a brief few seconds) when I got the ‘figure of eight’ motion right.
But as experienced kitesurfer and Tarifa stalwart Tony Cassidy tells me, I’m not a million miles off. “Once you’ve done your three days and you can finally stand up on the board, do another three lessons and get your confidence up,” he advised me.
“You really need to get the lessons to get the confidence.” And as we all know, it’s all about
confidence. So apparently I’ll just need a few more hours of lessons and I’ll be skimming across the waves with the best.
I can hardly call myself a kitesurfer, but one thing’s for certain, I’ll be back for another go.
Gin Tunics, tuna lollipops and tuna yachts... despite Belinda Beckett not eating fish, Zahara’s legendary Ruta de Atún festival had her hooked!
FISH lovers travel from far and wide to the Costa de la Luz in Springtime to taste the first succulent almadraba tuna - caught by an ancient method dating back to Phoenecian times, just as these Leviathans leave the cold Atlantic for their warmer Mediterranean spawning grounds.
During festival week in May there are as many fish fanciers on land as there are tuna in the sea, when the population of this pretty maritime pueblo of 1,300 residents fills up with another 15,000 hungry souls.
In total, they munched their way through 65,000 tapas made from 200 tuna weighing some 200 kilos apiece, netting restaurateurs an impressive €400,000 over one weekend– not bad in an economic crisis!
And tuna isn’t the only temptation. There are some enticing prizes for eating it too, which only steeled my resolve. Eat 12 tapas for the chance to win a smart LGD TV, a Samsung tablet or a Nintendo Wii. Eat all 36 and a weekend for two at the posh Hotel Atlanterra could be yours. It was all so well organised (something of a surprise, in Spain). Everyone gets a menu map detailing the location of each restaurant and its speciality tapa, divided into six colour-coded zones, plus a sheet of paper drawn up with boxes that you have to get stamped as you eat.
The man responsible for this shining example of entrepre-
Costa de la luz
neurialism is local restaurateur Gaspar Castro, President of local traders association ACOZA.
“For most towns May is the month for communions and weddings but we don’t cater for those events in a big way as we’re only a small fishing village,” he says. “At the same time, it’s one of the best months to eat fresh red tuna, caught in our unique way. We’ve been making a party of it since 2009 and it’s really paying off.” If high drama is you’re bag, there’s plenty of it with music, dancing, street parades and a demonstration of tuna filleting that’s pure theatre, complete
Immature tuna can wriggle out through the mesh and live to spawn
with buckets of blood! It’s called a ‘ronqueo’ after the ‘grunting’ noise the knife makes when separating flesh from bone. It takes experts with cleavers and sharp knives under tenminutes to reduce one silvery 200-kilo tuna to 17 choice cuts the colour and texture of prime beef (which is why bluefin tuna is confusingly called atún rojo in Spain) “Hardly any goes to waste which is why we call the tuna ‘el cerdo del mar’,” Gaspar told me.
(That explains the float I saw go by, bearing a bunch of cheering children dressed as Peppa Pigs.)
A 200-kilo almadraba tuna will fetch €3,800 on the open market in Spain and the ventresca (stomach, best for tuna steaks) sells for €40 per kilo but some cuts are particular delicacies: the morillo (a kind of muscle in the head) costs circa €55 per kilo and the female eggs, €80 per kilo. Huevos de leche are also relished, though aren’t for the faint-hearted (being tuna sperm) but Gaspar swears they’re ‘very tasty’. Although, as his restaurant was responsible for the Mandarin Deception, I’m not so sure I believe him!
The most fascinating aspect of the local tuna industry is the almadraba – the large structure you can glimpse one kilometre out to sea. It’s a complex labyrinth of nets several kilometres long and more than 30 meters deep, designed to guide the tuna
PURVEYORS: Amazing tuna at Antonio and (above) at Mezcla
ZAHARA
into a central trap (el copo) from which there’s no escape. Ecologically sound, immature tuna can wriggle out through the mesh and live to spawn another day. The thrilling part is the Levantá. Several will be held be-
tween April and June, dependent on wind, tides and sea conditions and decided by the almadraba’s ‘captain’.
Then, the fishermen encircle this seething cauldron of captive tuna in their boats and hoist the nets
out of the water. They will have no more than six hours to raise thousands of kilos of frenzied fish. ‘Almadraba’ is Arabic for ‘place of fighting’ and the name’s well-justified.
Zahara boasts one of the ‘big
four’ Atlantic almadrabas in Spain, along with those of Tarifa, Conil and Barbate which also hold their own rutas de atún during May and June. In 2010, Barbate welcomed 50 celebrity chefs to its festival including Fer-
Quotas are strictly controlled to preserve declining stocks of this endangered fish and today, Japanese ships queue up in the bay to buy tuna directly from the almadrabas. Atún rojo is a highly prized ingredient of sushi and sashimi and sells in Japan for four or five times its price in Spain. The current record for a
If you can time it
you can book a boat trip to see the
from a distance but
chance of taking part, unless you’re well-connected or prepared to bribe your way onto a boat (a figure of €200 a head has been mentioned). Gaspar is disapproving . “It’s illegal and dangerous –one tourist lost three fingers.”
Considered by many as one of the best hotels on the Cadiz coast of Zahara de los Atunes. An excellent choice for the summer season.
rán Adriá, Juan María Arzak and Dani García.
278 kilo bluefin sold at auction in Tokyo is a cool €2.7 million!
right,
levantá
there’s little
HIDDEN GEMS
N a small hamlet full of potholed roads, teenagers on motos and bright brown cows you’ll find the best dining secret on the Costa de la Luz. Called Patria (www.restaurantepatria.com), it’s here that zen-like Danish couple Ase and Thomas Donso weave magic in a charming cottage, surrounded by leafy grounds and a terrace to die for. This is soul food and some of the prettiest you’ll eat in Andalucia. It sits in La Muela, some ten minutes inland from Vejer, and it ticks just about every box,
You need the local knowledge to winkle out the best places to eat on the Costa de la Luz, writes Jon Clarke
with a cracking wine list, a varied and regularly changing menu and locally sourced ingredients, pulled together by a young and talented team. There is also plenty of theatre, particularly on the candle-lit flagstone terrace, which gives a feel of the Pyrenees or the south of France with its vineclad veranda and expanses of oleander.
Thomas knows where to track down the best local wares, be they baby fennels from nearby Conil, fresh fish from Barbate or chives and coriander from his garden.
dolin’ and carefully baked, then finally deep fried and served with fresh tomato and aioli and chives. The comforting crunch gave way to a softy, succulent inside.
There were loads of specials, including appropriately a tarantela of bluefin tuna that really got the neighbours’ cats going. Served with a big mix of sides, that included a type of deep fried scotch egg, as well as leeks, asparagus and a lovely ratatouille.
The comforting crunch gave way to a softy, succulent inside
One month you might eat a pan brioche with beef steak marinated overnight, with gherkins, chives and dill and served on a baby lettuce. Or the artistic rolls of smoked beef with cabbage, tarragon, mustard and goat’s cheese foam, as stunning as the Mona Lisa and wit the flavour of Picasso.
And then there’s the bravas, which are sliced with a ‘man-
A carpaccio of local Barbate prawns were carefully sliced and served with salicornia and a kimchi sauce, with some cherry tomatoes.
The wild strawberry pudding with chocolate biscuit and nuts was legendary, coming as they do from the nearby fields, care of one of the waitresses’ husbands.
“We not just source our ingredients locally, but our staff are all too, literally from the nearby hamlet,” explains father-of-two Thomas, a keen surfer, proudly.
Journey
It was nearly two decades ago when I first visited the Costa de la Luz for a travel article for the British press. Obviously heading to the centre of Tarifa and the main square in Vejer, it took a serious bit of local knowledge to help root out a string of other local chestnuts.
I was pointed off into the nearby hills, to places like Zahora, where you will find La Traina, or to Santa Lucia and its legendary steak joint, Castilleria And then there was the coast, up in Barbate, with its incredible tuna temple of El Campero, or the amazing restaurant with rooms, Antonio, in Zahara de los Atunes.
I was soon coming back five or six times a year, to kick back and enjoy the distinct style of dining in Cadiz, that’s quite different from the nearby Costa del Sol or inland in Ronda or Sevilla.
While Vejer is nowadays the definitive Dining Capital of Cadiz, indeed one of the best spots in southern Spain (see Frontier of Food, page 16), I’ve found some incredible new places to eat this year in Barbate. Once the fried fish centre of the Costa de la Luz and where you’d more likely get robbed than eat well, today it is really upping its game.
FOOD PORN: Smoked beef and cabbage rolls and the amazing bravas created by the team at Patria
HIDEOUT: The true dining secret of La Traina and a tuna toast tapa
CREATIVITY: A tuna dish at Jarana (left) and (below and right) Variopinto and chef Jose Luis
Looking for a couple of variants on tuna joint El Campero, the two most obvious restaurants are Variopinto and Jarana. At Variopinto (www.variopintobarbate.com), I was particularly excited by the smartly dressed young team who served up a spread of delicious dishes with top quality tuna
The smoked semi mojama red tuna tapa comes with a delicious melted Payoyo goats cheese with a spicy red butter, while bluefin tuna toast comes with truffle mayonnaise and is as good as it gets. Jarana (www.grupomacarena. com/jarana) was even more upscale, very stylish, sitting in pole position with views over the lovely beach and to Africa!
The menu is interesting and unusual and includes such joys
as pigs ears with bravas and potato truffle mash and Cordoba aubergines with honey and salmorejo.
But being here for the tuna you must try the pena de atún taco - a surf and turf number - while the interesting brioche with local retinto beef and a prawn tartare is delicious. I was also led to the tortillita Macarena in a white prawn ceviche and guacamole. It looked amazing..and tasted great too!
There was a big bluefin tuna section with some interesting dishes such as the dados or chunks which was basically tuna tartare with ajo blanco, the delicious white almond gazpacho typical from nearby Malaga. A real dish for the summer!
Hidden Zahora
La Traina (www.latraiadezahora.com), in the hamlet of Zahora, is one of those places you pass in the blink of an eye, but you miss at your peril. Set in a leafy garden behind a high wall, the only real giveaway is the amount of vehicles fighting for a hueco in its car park across the road. Even on a Tuesday lunchtime in June the place is packed and it is easily one of the coolest on the coast… and that’s not just from its deep shade and clever channeling of the area’s famous local breeze. La Traina is the brainchild of house DJ, Antonio, and his brother Alex, a chef, who both have an intimate knowledge and passion for the local sea-
TRAILBLAZER: Antonio has been wowing diners for decades
food, hence naming the place after a type of trawler.
Want to try the famous blue fin tuna? This is one of the best places on the coast, in particular as its supplier of the world’s most prized fish is Spain’s most respected, based up the road in Barbate. The tartare is unbelievably good although I also love the sashimi of ventresca and, in particular, the tartaki, which comes with no less than 12 generous slices of delicious tuna belly, served with various garnishes and edible flowers.
A for Antonio
In Zahara de los Atunes, a town named after its famous fish, the best place by far is Antonio (www.restaurante-
antoniozahara.com), a hotel and restaurant I first found two decades ago. Its boss Alejandro runs the place like a sergeant major and this place has the swagger of a top class joint you’d find in San Sebastian or Madrid. It’s very hard to get a table and helps if you’ve booked a room in the hotel next door, but otherwise just jump on the waiting list and keep your fingers crossed. Snare a table and I promise you won’t forget it, although if you push the boat out, as you should, your wallet may feel a little light.
The tuna dishes are the best in Spain and they are served with real panache, while the ham (above) from nearby Jabugo is spectacular.
Roadside legend
Looking for a little slice of history, Venta Pinto (www.ventapinto.com) has been serving up travellers (in particular its loin in lard roll) since 1910. Served warm, normally with a snifter of sherry, it’s still on offer today and literally oozes with the feel-good factor, if not exactly a road to good health. Thankfully, the menu at this family-owned restaurant is as light or rich as you want it to be, with plenty of salads and gallons of seafood to boot. No surprise the tuna is good and my morillo cut is one of the best, but if it’s on offer definitely go for the creative tuna ‘tostada’ served on wafer-thin
Continues on page 32
DINING CAPITAL
toast, spread with mayo, wasabi, black salt and onion. A surefire winner.
Melting pot
Up in Vejer itself you are completely spoilt for choice with highlights including 4 Estaciones (www.4estacionesvejer. com), where owner Alberto is constantly refining and changing his menu, as others ‘keep copying it’.
I loved a Saam with a tail of King Prawn, guacamole, trout roe, spring onion and kimchi, a variation on the dish made famous at three Michelin star Diverxo, in Madrid.
The range of ‘fresh summer dishes’ is brilliant and Alberto’s gazpacho sorbet with olive oil ice cream, prawns, ham and free range egg and black pepper is a surefire winner
A big supporter of local Cadiz wines, he has seven whites and nine reds coming from the province.
Next up is the grandfather of restaurants, the Jardin de Califa (www.califavejer.com), which has become a genuine foodie pilgrimage over the last decade.
Reached through the labyrinthine corridors of the 16th century Califa hotel, its romantic palm courtyard is enclosed by ancient walls and is lit with Moroccan lamps after dark.
If you aren’t hypnotized by the
scent of frangipani, jasmine and incense, the heavenly menu is crammed full of flavours from the Middle East and north Africa.
Created by a multicultural kitchen, the freshest dishes imaginable include pastela filled with chicken, almonds and cinnamon, baba ganoush and shish taouk.
Service is always second to none, and the ambience is very much part of the set up.
If you can’t get a table here, try the excellent Garimba (www. garimbasur.com) across the square.
One of the most charming places to eat in southern Spain, Plaza de Espana is always a hive of activity, so you might expect the food to be a little flat.
Not at all, the excellent range of dishes including prawn pil pil and partridge salad, are fresh and excellent plates to share.
Run by father and daughter team of Javier and Claudia, both from Madrid, the place is organised, friendly and usually busy.
is another good spot to eat with some of the best views in
The menu is also good with a special mix of dishes.
For more Moroccan flavour you might want to check out Fez, which sits in the heart of the old town. A simple joint with an easy philosophy, it combines a clear love of the country.
The most exciting new place by far is Narea, which sits in an amazing spot overlooking the best views in Vejer.
But you are not here for the views you are here for the amazing cooking of Jaime and Alejandra, who have trained in two of Spain’s highest ranked restaurants Celler de Can Roca and Diverxo.
They certainly know how to cook and given they’ve only been open for a few months it is going to take them a little while.
But the croquettes looked amazing and had a major kick, while the bao with bulls cheek and
Califa Tapas, just up the road on Calle Corredera,
Cadiz.
From previous page
tuna below is spectacular. I will definitely be coming back for a more detailed separate review.
Tasty Tarifa
Perhaps the most disappointing place to eat on the Costa de la Luz is Tarifa, which really should have a better mix of places to dine.
There has been improvement though, with the addition of places like Merkado 27, MicMoc and Almacen %, where Georgina leads her kitchen team with an iron fist, pushing out some of the freshest dishes in the town.
Easily the best place for a pizza on the whole coast though is La Trattoria (www.latrattoriatarifa. com), which gets better by the year.
Run by foodie, Luciano Fabricio, from Naples, his joint serves up thousands of pizzas a week and has won awards from the Verace Pizza Napoletana quality mark as well as the Best Independent Pizza group, based in Italy.
No surprises, he brought in a team from Napoli to build his pizza oven and he only uses soft homemade dough with slow fermentation (see sidebar below)
Nearby, always keep your eye out for Lima, which has a wonderful leafy terrace and describes its food as ‘multicultural comida’, that’s to say a mix of everything good.
“We’ve got dishes from all around Europe and South America,” explains Xavi, a former snowboard champion, who's
been cooking in Tarifa for years.
On the way out of Tarifa up the coast road, look out for Pacha Mama (www.pachamamatarifa.com), which is an institution that can feed up to 1000 people a day in the heart of summer.
And not just churning it out.
Owner Luciano (who also owns Trattoria) is a big fan of Italy’s Slow Food Movement and he insists on the best free range meats, from top breeds, including Simental, Holstein and Galician Blonde.
“All our steaks come from cows at least five years old and fed naturally with grass from the field,” he tells me. “This is the only way to impregnate the fat with that characteristic aroma of
COMING from Naples you would hope Luciano Fabricio would know how to make the best pizza.
And, of course, he does going by the amount of prizes he’s won, the latest the Best Independent Pizza award, which has only been handed to three places in Spain.
Half of the skill is employing the right pizza chefs and the other half is the ingredients.
“To become the best pizza chef takes years and years. It is a real art form.
tel: 698 94 5951
Edificio Trafalgar, Paseo Marítimo de Barbate
grass and milk.”
The restaurant sits in a wonderful sheltered garden, with plenty of shade and an excellent pool for the kids to play in.
Duchess delight
If you find yourself en route to Medina Sidonia by any chance make sure you drop by the fantastic well established Venta La Duquesa
This amazing historic place is the best inland joint by far.
IT’S A REAL ARTFORM
“In Italy the trainees start at 14 or 15 years old and they won’t even touch the dough for 2 years.”
He continues: “If you want to make a really good Napolitana pizza, it has to be very hydrated.
“You use very little yeast and allow the dough to ferment over 24 hours.”
Given he has up to 500 clients a day and makes 20,000 pizzas in a summer he has got the recipe about right.
“Great ingredients, great tomatoes and the mozzarella I buy costs €10 a kilo, when most people spent €3. I think most people can taste the difference.”
His gourmet pizza section is very impressive - with a Black Angus number at 18 euros and a fascinating one called Li Mortazzi Tua which had pistachios, basil, mortadella and a whole buffolo mozzarella.
WHERE TO STAY
Sweet dreams
The Costa de la Luz boasts a lovely range of great
places to stay, writes Jon Clarke (below)
IAM sitting next to a plunge pool of a stunning new boutique hotel EntreArcos (www.casaentrearcos.com) in the heart of Vejer de la Frontera.
As perches go it is right up there with the nests of the rare Bald Ibis that inhabit the cliff face just below the town.
A wonderful rooftop with views across the Janda region and up to the town’s church tower, this is the place to sit as the sun rises or sets. Describing itself as an ‘eco hotel’ it counts on eight charming rooms, each with state-of-the-art mod cons, some with deep baths and others with drop-down cinema screens.
Using 100% natural textiles, recycled furniture and lime putty, leadfree paints, you feel the cool and calming ambience from the second you arrive.
The brainchild of Sevilla couple Sinisa and Pilar, it puts sustainability at the fore in both its design and materials.
An admirable ethos, energy is renewable with low-energy lighting, motion sensors and a special system for hot water based on recirculation.
All cleaning materials are natu-
ral and all produce is bought and sourced as locally as possible, with style and simplicity very much at the fore.
I particularly liked the intelligent entry system and the healthy breakfasts, with bread from the town’s best bakery and home made jams.
Another equally stylish place to stay in Vejer is Plaza 18 (www. plaza18vejer.com), which features half a dozen sumptuous suites as rooms, many with views to die for.
The best have roof terraces facing the wonderful white town, while the downstairs communal terrace is comfort personified.
Designed by British interior designer Nicky Dobree, it has been created out of a charming 19th. century manor house.
The sitting room downstairs offers
the grandeur of an English country estate with the colours and light so classical of the Cadiz region.
Next door is the seminal market leader in Vejer, La Casa de Califa (www.califavejer.com), which is over a quarter of a century labour of love by its British owner James Stuart.
A beautiful Moorish townhouse it is a warren of comfortable rooms and suites set around a charming central patio, where guests take breakfast and dine under candlelight by night (but don’t forget to book - this is the town’s most popular restaurant).
Over the last two years its rooms have gone through a luxury upgrade c/o James’ super-talented wife, designer Ellie Cormie (see below).
Meanwhile, around the corner, Las
winner if you are looking for a pool to cool off after a day of sightseeing.
Down on the nearby coast, at Canos de Meca, Madreselva (www. califavejer.com/madre-selva) is right next to one of Cadiz’ most famous beaches.
It is a classic low-key unfussy boutique hotel that counts on the loveliest sleepy courtyard, a small pool and the best breakfast on the coast. Nearby, a bit closer to the famous Trafalgar lighthouse and the amazing next door beaches is Casas Karen ( www.casaskaren.com).
An emblematic place to stay, one of the first eco-hotels, in Andalucia, this is laid back charm at its very best best.
Palmeras, also part of the Califa group, is the
Spreading over a big estate of wild pinewoods and scrub, its mixture of chozas (straw huts) and traditional farmhouses, blends perfectly into the landscape.
HAVING learnt her trade at Central St Martins in London, alongside the likes of Paul Smith, John Galliano and Stella McCartney, Ellie Cormie has more than a decent eye for interiors. So husband and owner of the Califa hotel, James Stuart, was incredibly lucky when the interiorist found a window to upgrade the 20 rooms in his emblematic hotel in Vejer. The results are nothing short of amazing as she has carefully worked with the ancient building’s historical quirks and imperfections.
Massages and yoga can be arranged, or guests can simply relax in a Mexican hammock and chill out. British expat Karen herself promises you’ll ‘get back to basics’ here and she and her team try their best to nurture and protect the beautiful local environment.
In the heart of Zahara, you must definitely check out Hotel Pozo del Duque ( www.pozodelduque. com), which sits close to the centre on the best part of the beach. This historic and brilliant-value spot gets better and better each year and counts on two pools, one of them to die for on the roof with some of the best views in Cadiz. A family-run joint, manager Eduardo could not be more amenable and his talents count on setting up and helping to run the town’s annual tuna dining route.
In Zahara, you also have the excel-
Each room has its own specific feel and look, with its own signature pieces, be it furniture, material or antique.
One thing each room has is personality and a sense of place… and guests are made to feel at home and able to quickly relax.
“What James wanted was to make each room a little bit more luxurious and so I
from Scotland. “I hope the results speak for themselves.” www.elliecormie.com
UPGRADE: All Califa’s rooms have been overhauled
used his incredible family collection of items from Lebanon, Syria and Botswana and mixed them with my own love of rich textiles,” explains Ellie, who heralds
POLE POSITION: EntreArcos in the heart of Vejer, while (below) leafy Madreselva
BEACHSIDE LUXURY: Pozo del Duque, while (below) connecting
lent Hotel Antonio ( www. antoniohoteles.com), sitting on one of Andalucia’s top beaches and with one of the best restaurants on the coast.
Getting a room, which are simple but comfortable, may be your best bet to get a booking in the restaurant, which is all but full until September.
Up in Tarifa, few places come better sited than Tarifa’s Hurricane Hotel and its sister Punta Sur.
Set up in the 1980s, the Hurricane ( www.hotelhurricane.com) has counted on celebrities and royals among its guests, no surprise given its location in stunning gardens, at the end of celebrat-
ed Los Lances beach. Its sister Punta Sur ( www. hotelpuntasur.com) sits in an amazing leafy enclave, protected from the famous
Tarifa winds, with well appointed rooms and the best pool on the coast. Oh and a tennis court and great restaurant to boot.
with nature at Casas Karen
