NEW MEMORIES OF OLD SPAIN
WHEN I first visited Andalucia in 1990 my girlfriend (now wife) and I knew remarkably little about the region.
After settling into our holiday flat in Mijas Costa, we got out the road atlas (remember them?) and started to plot a route to explore Andalucia.
After ticking off Marbella and Puerto Banus, we decided to head off to discover the ‘real Spain’. But where to start? The likes of Cordoba and Granada sprang to mind, but they would have to wait for a later holiday being a
It is not quite the land that time forgot, but the Guadalhorce Valley certainly gives more than a glimpse of how things once were
couple of hours away.
Instead we literally drove inland away from the teeming costas, up inland first to charming Mijas village, then followed an intriguing windy mountain road signposted to exotic sounding ‘Alhaurin el Grande’.
Within just 15 minutes we had discovered the Guadalhorce Valley, with all its Arabic influenc -
es and amazing views in every single direction.
Easily one of Malaga’s best-kept secrets, we found the fecund valley full of rich history and authentic Andalucian charm. We had come across, almost by accident, an
escape into rural Spain just a short trip inland from the bustling coast.
The fertile soils were clearly perfect for market gardening and the heavy, sweet scent of orange blossom (so distinctive it has its own name - Azahar ) followed us everywhere on our spring adventure.
Indeed, so productive is the land, the Arabs gave it the name ‘Allah’s garden’ - which has come down to modern times as Alhaurin (both
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Juergen Heitmann
By Dilip Kuner
EXPLORER: A young Dilip on his first visit to the stunning Embalse del Conde de Guadalhorce 35 years ago
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reakfast Sandwiches Tapas Salads Snacks Childrens Menu Specials
Gasolinera Vista Hermosa
Sirviendo a la comunidad de alozaina desde 1991
Serving the community of Alozaina since 1991
TLF: 952 480 072
Ctra. Málaga-Ronda, Km. 44, 29567 - Alozaina (Málaga)
All this garden
GUADALHORCE
in Alhaurin el Grande and near neighbour Alhaurin de la Torre).
While the latter, much nearer to Malaga, has undergone massive development in the past 30 years, the former still has all its old charm and retains its rural roots as a market town.
The Guadalhorce river, the largest in the province of Malaga, carves its way through this picturesque valley, giving life to the lush countryside that surrounds it. Rolling hills covered with olive groves, citrus orchards, and almond trees create a patchwork of green and gold, particularly beautiful in the spring when the almond blossoms bloom.
For those looking to explore, the valley’s landscapes are ideal for hiking, cycling, or simply soaking in the natural beauty.
The Romans were the first people to settle here en masse, and remnants of their influence are scattered throughout the region. Coin, the region’s ‘capital’ and just a short hop from Alhaurin, is a larger version of its smaller neighbours (Tolox, Yunquera and Alozaina) with its emblematic church, series of squares and a multitude of winding cobbled streets.
Set up by the Romans, it was largely abandoned for almost 500 years, then brought back to life by the Moors, who rebuilt it in 950 AD.
Much of this later success came from the quarries of marble and iron ore which were used in the construction of Sevilla’s famous settlement of Italica, the birthplace of the future Emperor, Hadrian. Reconquered by the Christians during a long siege in which Christopher Columbus allegedly took part, it was also popular with another great explorer Captain
EXCITEMENT: Crossing
Cook, who visited in 1829.
After a visit to Cartama, Alhaurin and Coin, he wrote, ‘These villages are on rising ground above the river and in beauty of situation and cultivation cannot be excelled.
“They afford a specimen of the whole country when possessed by the Moors, being surrounded by gardens with orange, lemon and palm trees and abounding in all the fine as well as the more common fruits.”
A great place to continue your journey is Tolox, which is the back door to the incredible mountain wilderness of the Sierras de las Nieves national park.
As someone once described it, ‘If Coin sits at the foot of the Sierra de las Nieves, then Tolox is the toenail’.
Formerly part of the Moorish Kingdom of Soleiman, this whitewashed village also draws visitors to dip into its Fuente Amarga spa (also known as the Balneario de Chiclana), with its legendary healing properties.
Stress and muscle fatigue are washed away with a variety of therapies ranging from natural gas inhalation to mud spray treatments.
Head uphill for a couple of miles and you will find the eagle-eye views at the Cerro
SOURCE: The Guadalmina river rises in four areas before filtering into the Embalse del Conde de Guadalhorce
From front page
the amazing high bridge at Caminito del rey
de Hijar hotel, one of Andalucia’s more remote places to stay.
Every hairpin bend round the steep cliffs offers up a fresh angle on the Guadalhorce Valley.
Looking down as far as Malaga and to waterfalls trickling below, it’s easy to forget that the Costa del Sol metropolis is just over the mountain.
From here you head up towards the stunning white village of Yunquera and Alozaina which are embedded like jewels in a setting of olive groves.
of these pueblos - can be seen against the skyline from the narrow streets below.
Packed with Moroccan and Roman influences and with a castle
The entrance to the latter’s charming centre is marked by stone arches while the church – the crowning glory in most
From the striking Santa Ana church, there are spectacular views towards the Sierra Prieta.
A half an hour north east you cannot miss Alora, which can be seen from miles around. This stunning place packed with Moroccan and Roman influences is topped by a castle, which sits on a lofty pinnacle looking down on this quaint pueblo. A stop at the 17th century La Encarnacion church en route is the perfect pre-
lude to the main event atop Cerro de las Torres hill.
The castle has had a long and chequered history. Originally built by Phoenicians, before being expanded under Roman rule, it was destroyed by the Visigoths and rebuilt by the Moors.
Retracing your steps back the route south west out of Alhaurin brings you to the serene Barranco Blanco (White Ravine).
A photographer’s dream tucked away in the countryside where wild boar feel safe to roam, its aquamarine waters end in a magical waterfall, but hide a dark past. Everyone mentions the Nazis, who allegedly used the area as a training camp during the war, due to the alliance be-
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with our clients, and we want to reward you for helping us grow!
If you recommend Mediterranean Homes to a friend who is looking to sell their property AND it results in a successful sale through Mediterranean Homes in any of the below areas on the Costa del Sol, you will receive a €300 Amazon Gift Voucher!
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BREATHE: A beautiful view of Tolox protected by the breathtaking natural surrounding of the Sierra de las Nieves
FIND YOUR COUNTRY DREAM HOUSE
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Specialising in picturesque country properties in the beautiful Guadalhorce Valley, our dedicated team bring 30 years of combined experience to navigate the real estate landscape with ease. No property is too challenging for us to sell— whether it’s a charming finca or a luxurious villa, we thrive on tackling even the trickiest cases, including those with complicated or incomplete paperwork.
and landscaping. Our international team speaks English, Spanish, Dutch, German, and French, providing access to an extensive range of potential buyers and listings.
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Álora – APA553
Fabulous Andalucian country estate of 3 adjoining fincas totalling 70,000m2 of productive lemon and olive groves and a beautiful, professionally refurbished 5 bedroom, 3 bathroom cortijo house with private swimming pool, large garage and artist’s studio. Quality finishes throughout including bespoke carpentry and iron work. Total build size of 292m2. Mains electricity and high speed internet and domestic water supply and private irrigation water source. Also development opportunity to build a 2nd substantial house. Amazing views and walking distance to all of the amenities of Álora pueblo and just 30 minutes drive from Málaga city and international airport. This really is a very special property!
Price: 865,000€
From previous page
Head for heights?
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tween Franco and Hitler. You can still see a white building that was used as a sentry point as you arrive.
Park the car and head into yet another stunning side valley for walks and great pictures.
Daredevils
Let’s not forget what was once dubbed the ‘world’s deadliest walkway’ until the Caminito del Rey reopened 10 years ago following a €3 million upgrade.
While much safer now, you’ll still need a head for heights taking this high-adrenalin hike that runs through the El Chorro gorge, an immense fissure five kilometres long and 300 metres deep as it slices through towering limestone cliffs.
Set between the two postage stamp-sized villages of Ardales and El Chorro, it is no wonder this area garnered the nickname ‘the Andalucian Lake District’, in part thanks to a series of Olive Press travel articles over a decade ago.
The scenery is more akin to the countryside of Cumbria or the cantons of Switzerland than the average scenery on the Costa del Sol with the two villages linked by hairpin bend roads past the shimmering reservoirs bordered by sandy beaches and shaded by feathery conifers.
With lakeside campsites, it’s the quintessential active weekend break for outdoor sports types, offering rock climbing, watersports, pedalos and dining under the stars at charming pine-shaded ventas.
There is a lot to explore, with one incredibly interesting side trip up to the ancient ruined city of Bobastro, found by taking a side road uphill just a few clicks outside El Chorro.
A fascinating place, it was here in the ninth century that rebel Muslim leader Omar Ibn Hafsun, declared independence from the Moorish kingdom of Cordoba, leading to decades of conflict and the setting up of an impregnable mountain redoubt that was hard to capture and even harder to find.
Today, you can explore the site, with its various buildings and ruins that suddenly emerge in clearings amid deep woodland. Most fascinat-
ing of all is an ancient church that was literally hewn out of rock, with circular shapes as windows, one presumes. And then it is time to head back to the coast to re-enter the modern world with new memories of an ancient world.
Established in Álora since 1998 – We pride ourselves in providing a friendly but professional service
Offering a diverse range of properties – Fincas, townhouses, cortijos, villas and country houses
Casarabonela – APA547
Wow! Location! Location! Location! Freshly presented 3 bedroom, 3 bathroom country villa with private pool, and olive grove. Set within a plot of 7,438 m2, the house extends to 165m2 and offers accommodation all on one level. Mains water and electricity and high speed internet connected. Stunning views of Casarabonela pueblo and the Andalucian countryside. Less than 5 minutes drive to all local amenities and 45 minutes drive from Málaga city and international airport.
Price: 425,000€
– APA551 – SOLD!!
We are pleased to have sold this beautiful 2 bedroom townhouse in Álora within less than one week of offering it for sale, although this left other potential buyers disappointed.
WE URGENTLY NEED MORE QUALITY COUNTRY AND TOWN PROPERTIES FOR CLIENTS WHO ARE WAITING.
PLEASE GET IN TOUCH AND WE WILL BE PLEASED TO COME AND GIVE YOU A NO OBLIGATION VALUATION.
Álora
STUNNING: El Chorro gorge leading to the famous Caminito del Rey bridge in the distance
GUADALHORCE
T was in Phoenician times that Alhaurin el Grande first developed its role as an important market town, as the already established Iberian tribes bartered their goods with new arrivals from Lebanon.
Later the town thrived under Roman occupation when a number of wealthy merchants from nearby Malaga made money from the rich mineral deposits in the nearby hills.
They built sizeable villas, such as Villa de la Mata, and labelled the town Lauro Nova. Evidence has been found in the numbers of coins, statues and pillars, a trio of which stand pride of place opposite the town hall today. But it wasn’t until Moorish rule that the town really blossomed, as the Arabs planted new crops in the wide fertile valley that is crossed by two rivers, the Fahala and Blas Gonzales. They introduced acequias (or water courses) to irrigate the entire valley and built a number of important mills, such as the Molino Morisco de los Corchos.
An area of particular beauty – not to mention an extremely clement climate – it had soon taken on an ap-
THE GARDEN OF ALLAH
STRIKING: ‘God’s Garden’ dates back to Phoenician times
propriate new name, that of ‘Garden of Allah’, or Alhaurin.
Remnants of the eight centuries of Arabic rule can still be found, particularly at the Arco del Cobertizo, which was a gateway to the medina, that had a
WALK: Country walk near the water tower above Alhaurin
souk specialising in silk.
One of the last towns to be conquered by the Catholic kings in 1485, it was eventually merged with Alora, Cartama and Coin in 1666 to form a single entity known as the Four Towns. Though it was anything but plain sailing for the united municipality and
there were epidemics of plague and even an earthquake in 1680.
Later, Alhaurin was occupied for four years by the French during the Peninsular War in the early 19th century, which led to the inevitable destruction and upheaval. Since then, apart from the turbulent period during the civil war, the biggest threat to civil peace was an influx of English hooligans in the 2000s, who thankfully have now gone.
There is no doubt that Alhaurin el Grande has been through a dramatic transformation over recent years but there is a now a real swagger about the place.
Businesses are opening and the type of expat now coming to live here is more interested in integration, learning the language and enjoying the town’s varied culture.
Photo by flickr Ben Mitchell
At Casa King we have a wide range of high quality secondhand and new goods to suit all tastes and budgets, including furniture, kitchen appliances, carpets, electrical items and the list goes on.
Opening times 10am until 2pm six days a week
+34 602 610 103
Ctra. de Cártama, 57 29120 Alhaurín el Grande, Málaga www.casaking.es
GUADALHORCE
Step this way
By Yzabelle Bostyn
THE mild temperatures and stunning autumnal colours make it the perfect time to explore the Guadalhorce Green Corridor.
Spain’s largest river park, its 54 kilometre trajectory will eventually wind through seven towns, with three sections now complete.
Aiming to connect areas of the Guadalhorce valley using natural trails, the corridor stretches from the Gaitanes Gorge to the Guadalhorce river mouth in Malaga.
Along the way, travellers will discover orchards, olive groves and forests, not to mention the region’s charming towns.
The featured spots are: Ardales, Alora, Pizarra, Coin, Alhaurin el Grande, Cartama and Alhaurin de la Torre, all known for their rich culture and history including pottery handicrafts and olive
Latest section of the Guadalhorce Green Corridor hiking trail completed
oil. The latest part, a standalone four kilometre hiking route, was finished at the start of this year and passes
through Pizarra. Previously, walkers had travelled between the towns of Pizarra and Vega Hipolito by walking on the road, so this path provides hikers with
a safer journey between the two towns. Visitors can also admire the Guadalhorce River Estuary Nat -
ural Park, down near the coast, the historic Azud de Aljaima bridge and the Riparian forest. The other sections include a pe -
GREEN PARADISE: The corridor will eventually go through seven towns with 11 specific sections
destrian walkway over the Alora river section and the development of a 12.5-kilometre riverside path in Coin. Once completed, there will be 11 individual river routes to explore, perfect for bird watchers. The valley also has its own microclimate, making it great for cycling, walking and running all year round.
MUTTLEY’S MOTOS
• REPAIRS AND SERVICING
• AFTERMARKET BOLT-ONS
• CHAIN / SPROCKETS
• BRAKES REPLACED
• PRE-ITV CHECKS
• BIKE TRANSPORT AVAILABLE
• CHAINSAW, CAMPO MACHINERY AND QUADS FIXED TOO FREE TYRE COMPRESSION CHECKS
TEL (+34) 690 314 056 CHIMPYMCG105@GMAIL.COM C/ CERRILLO 30D, 29108 GUARO
Cortijo del Arte Hotel & Restaurant km 22, A-7054, km 22, 29560 Pizarra, Málaga tel: 952 48 45 23 www.cortijodelarte.com
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