All About Marbella June 2024 issue 446

SELLING QUALITY PROPERTIES

Taking a look beyond the bling and the yachts, with Dilip Kuner

MAGNIFICENT

MARBELLA. The name conjures up images of gleaming yachts, opulent mansions, and celebrities sipping cocktails in exclusive clubs.

While this glamorous facade is evidently true, there’s a far richer tapestry woven beneath the surface, waiting to be unravelled by curious explorers.

Step beyond its two marinas and delve into Marbella’s captivating old town or its nearby environs, where you’ll find Arabic bathhouses, Visigothic churches and even Roman villas.

In the Casco Historico though, time seems to slow down as you wander through a maze of cobbled streets, their 16th-century origins evident in the architecture.

Chic art galleries, bursting with vibrant creations, share space with traditional tapas bars, their enticing aromas wafting through the air. Quaint boutiques and artisanal ice cream shops complete the picture, offering a delightful treasure hunt for hidden gems.

Continues on page 14

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Marbella

From page 13

VIBRANT

The heart of this historical haven is Plaza de los Naranjos, aptly named for the abundance of fragrant orange trees that grace the square.

This vibrant space - bordered on one side by an 11th Century Moorish wallpulsates with life. The 16th-century town hall (or one part of it) stands proudly as the showpiece, a silent witness to centuries of change.

While the tourist hotspots here command a premium, the experience of soaking in the historical ambiance is priceless.

And for those seeking a moment of respite, the cool stone walls of the Ermita De Santiago, originally a mosque, offer a haven of peace from a bygone age.

Round the corner in the Plaza de Iglesia is the church of Our Lady of the Incarnation, whose first stone was laid in 1618.

Its main facade is adorned with a stunning red stone entrance worked in Baroque style, while the interior holds one of the most impressive organs ever built – consisting of 5000 pewter, copper and wooden pipes and four manual keyboards.

For history buffs, head up towards the ancient Roman baths in Guadalmina (below) sitting next to an 18th century defensive tower.

Next visit the intriguing 6th-century Visigothic church in nearby San Pedro, a testament to the region’s rich religious tapestry.

The town has come a long way since the

ente Romano (yes, really) or the villa site at Rio Verde, between the Golden Mile and Puerto Banus.

When your feet tire from exploring the past, seek solace in the verdant embrace of Marbella’s exquisite public gardens.

In the centre, La Constitución Park and Alameda Gardens provide a refreshing escape from the sun’s rays, while there are plenty of other attractive parks.

Locals gather here, particularly at feria time, creating a vibrant social scene, while charming cafes and bars line them, offering the perfect pitstop for a refreshing drink.

But Marbella’s true crown jewel is its 27 kilometres of stunning coastline. Pristine

sandy beaches with gentle dunes beckon in Artola and Elviria, while central Marbella and the Golden Mile (far right) boast a

Whether you seek a relaxing day soaking ing dip in the crystal-clear

OLD TOWN: The pedestrianised streets are a joyous place for a stroll

HISTORY: Is surprisingly in abundance in Marbella, with the Roman baths in Guadalmina fascinating

vigorating beach yoga session (or one of its derivatives) the town’s shores cater to every desire.

For those yearning for a touch of extravagance, Puerto Banus, Marbella’s glamorous neighbour, beckons.

Bookmarking one end of the famous Golden Mile, this is a place where anything goes.

From hen-doers trying their best to pull off ill-fitting fancy dress costumes after celebrating their last night of freedom, to members of the ‘1% club’ disembark

there is always something to gawp at.

This is People Watching central and easily as fun as Mayfair or Malibu, as people treat themselves to a new Rolex watch or a bag from the likes of Gucci and Prada.

Just about every brand has a shop here and there is even an office that caters for those looking to buy a seat on a private jet.

Banus has become one of the unashamed melting pots for the rich, famous and wannabe Marbella Love Islanders.

Dressed in head-to-toe designer, they flow thick and fast around the port, home to exclusive nightclubs Le Suite and the extravagant Roberto Cavalli, from mid-af-

ternoon. A round of drinks may blow your weekly budget, that’s if you haven’t already splurged it all on a swanky outfit - an essential if you want to mingle with the Who’s Who of Marbs. Along the strip to the east (the Golden Mile) the likes

of Lord Alan Sugar, Simon Cowell, Sean Connery and the Saudi Arabian royal family have invested in their own villas.

The latest arrival is Spotify owner, Daniel Ek, while Eva Longoria, Novak Djokovich and Eden Hazard all own homes here.

World leaders too, are magnetically attracted to Marbs, with David Cameron, Tony Blair and Michelle Obama having taken a visit over the last decade, while former Spanish Prime Minister Jose Maria Aznar has a villa in Guadalmina.

But Marbella has always been a grand resort to visit, ever since German prince Maximilian de Hohenlohe-Langenburg and his son Alfonso ‘discovered’ it when they had to stop while having trouble with their Rolls Royce in 1946. Alfonso liked the area so much he decided to buy some land and build himself a house, before selling plots to his pals, including the Rothschilds and Thyssens. He soon turned his home into the Costa del Sol’s first luxury hotel in 1954 – The Marbella Club – which to this day remains a breathtaking mainstay on the Golden Mile, welcoming guests like Lady Gaga and Lenny Kravitz over recent years. Its next door neighbour, the Puente Romano is even more ritzy and, aside from Robert de Niro, Tyson Fury and Antonio

Banderas, there have been dozens of other famous guests this year alone (which we cannot mention here, out of respect for owner Daniel Shamoon).

But the original A-list have always hung out here. Everyone, that is, from Ava Gardner to Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn to Laurence Olivier and Sean Connery to James Hunt have done their bit to raise the Costa del Sol’s international profile and, in turn, attracting a wave of jetsetters and investment. And if the culture, beaches and thriving social scene don’t leave you wanting to buy a place in Marbella, maybe the culinary scene will. The resort now has the most Michelin stars per capita in the country, making it a must-visit for any-

one who labels themselves a ‘foodie’.

From Takumi to Nintai and Messina to Macaao, each restaurant sparkles for its own reason. With incred-

ible nightlife, a blossoming arts scene and the best food in the region, Marbella certainly lives up to its (many) names. So, the next time you hear the name Marbella, remember – it’s more than just a playground for the rich and famous. It’s a tapestry woven with history, culture,

STOP PRESS breathtaking beauty, and an irresistible culinary scene. Unveil the depths of Marbella and discover a destination that will leave you spellbound.

JOINING THE CLUB: For anyone interested, the Olive Press opened an office in Marbella this year. Based in fashionable San Pedro, we felt the need to make the jump from our previous base in Sabinillas for growth and other strategic reasons.

LEAFY: While Marbella is one of the greenest and lowest density resorts in Europe, it has some of the best beaches - 27 kilometres of them!

ENVIRONS: The surrounding area is full of leafy spots and mountain walks up into the Sierra de las Nieves National Park

PHOTOS BY JON CLARKE

Going back in time

A donkey ride and more before the Marbella tourist gold rush...

PIONEER: The Marbella Club kick-started the town’s glamour back in the 1960s, when donkey rides were de rigeur, while the El Fuerte hotel (ringed) was built by an ancient Roman site, before the town grew many-fold

STUNNING: The Puente Romano Hotel’s ancient bridge

BUILT BY ROMANS

ARBELLA began its life as a town in the seventh century BC, when it was a Roman settlement called ‘Salduba’. This is also the name of a well known bar at the entrance to Puerto Banus that has been there for centuries too. Meanwhile an original Roman bridge still stands surreally in the middle of the Puente Romano Hotel and a few kilometres away is the restored Roman villa at Rio Verde with its beauti- ful mosaics.

SPECTACULAR: Mosaic at Rio Verde

A sleepy town during the period of Al-Andalus, Mar- bella was retaken by Chris- tians in 1485. The Plaza de los Naranjos (Orange Square) has been the fo- cal point of the town since then and the town hall is still located there today.

JUNKIE CAFE

Calle Las Violetas, 1, Nueva Andalucia, Marbella, Málaga, Spain 29660

TRAIN TO NOWHERE: Well actually to the mine that once provided 75% of all Spain’s iron ore

Ralli Museum

WE start our art tour at Marbella’s best known museum. Home to one of Europe’s most important Latin American collections, the Museo Ralli focuses on modern movements, particularly surrealism, with works from a wide range of contemporary artists. Its current temporary show is on show until April 2024.

WHERE? Urb. Coral Beach, Rio Verde, N-340, km. 176, 29602 Marbella, Málaga

WHEN? Tuesday to Friday 10:00 to 17:00 h Saturday 10:00 to 16:00 h

It’s not just hen parties creating an exhibition in Marbella; these three picks will satisfy culture vultures

“To fall in love with an artwork is to recognise your soul through the artist’s mirror” – or so said Marife Nuñez who founded the gallery, and probably knows about these things. Es.Arte is a contemporary gallery with a busy calendar of exhibitions and fairs. As well as exhibiting works by contemporary artists, the gallery also offers consultancy services, helping you find something to hang on your wall.

WHERE?

Av de Manolete, 1, Centro Plaza, Local 11, 29660 Marbella

WHEN? Tuesday to Friday 10:30 to 16:00 h Saturday 10:00 to 14:30 h

Es.Arte Gallery

Avenida del Mar

OR an outdoor gallery, head to Avenida del Mar to see some of Salvador Dali’s famous bronze statues. Located on this beautiful marble promenade near the waterfront, these statues include a depiction of Perseus beheading Medusa; the Roman emperor Trajan on horseback; and, changing the mood slightly, a statue of Dali’s wife looking through a window. Also look for nearby sculpture by Eduardo Soriano, a tribute to freedom of speech and expression.

WHERE?

Art beneath the glitz

OF course, the cobbled streets of Marbella old town (its casco antiguo), with their hanging flower baskets and tiled street signs are famously picturesque. Even the bins are painted in pastel tones and feature orange groves and sea creatures.

But there is art everywhere around this beautiful beach resort.

Take Bar Guerola, standing in a quiet leafy square, a short way from the promenade. Its interior is a real feast for sore eyes, every inch of its walls covered in art.

On one side, paintings by local artists including Pachi Gallado, from Torremolinos. On the other, blue pen cartoons depicting key moments from the last 40 years, with homages to various works such as Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia and Picasso’s Guernica.

The bar, which opened in the 1960s, has been run by the

Uncover some of Marbella’s hidden charms as an art lover’s paradise with Nadia McDonald

same friendly owner, Manuel, since 1982. The entertaining drawings were done by his friend, a well-known local dentist who passed away a year ago.

He picked up a small sketchbook with its pages mostly empty. It was a gift for the artist when he’d gone into hospital. “I miss him every day,” says Manuel. “He was a true creative, always thinking up drawings, and he would spend many days here with me.

“After he passed away, his wife gave me these works, and I cherish them. We both loved art, but he was a lot better than me.”

The following morning I headed to Hospital Ba

zan, not in search of medical attention, thankfully, but prints. The historic old town building houses the Contemporary Engraving Museum that is free to visitors, and houses works by a superb range of artists including Joan Miro, Antoni Tapies and even Malaga-born Picasso.

A personal favourite was Jose Caballero’s lithograph of his friend, Granada’s famous poet, Federico Garcia Lorca. The black and white portrait showing Lorca with a spattering of blood across his forehead is a stark reminder of his execution during the Spanish Civil War.

In contrast, Miro’s works were wonderfully colourful and vibrant. There was more Miro to be had at the Museo Ralli Marbella, an hour’s walk (or a quick taxi hop) away, near Puerto Banus. There was Dali here too, in an exhibition of Surrealism from Europe and Latin America –his bronze sculpture of a female torso, Venus Spatial, is precariously balanced, almost defying gravity.

The hall of the museum is inhabited by life size bronze sculptures by Mario Aguirre and Gerardo Quiroz. I found myself mistaking them for fellow visitors only to realise that, as I had been during the entirety of my stay, I was merely in the company of art.

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Magnificent seven

Marbella (1985)

ONE of the earlier cinematic portrayals of Marbella, this 80s romcom was shot 15 years after the opening of Puerto Banus, when the resort was flooded with stars. Starring Rod Taylor and Britt Ekland, the film follows the old trope of a washed-up Brit in search of a better life. Expelled from the Navy for his excessive drinking habits, Commander W.P. Anderson decides to take a second chance at life on the Costa del Sol.

The Business (2005)

IT’S not solely set in Marbella, although the film evokes it with a fantastic soundtrack that encapsulates the party vibe of the resort in the 1980s. The Business is narrated by Londoner Frankie, played by Danny Dyer, who grows up in Thatcher’s Britain and dreams of leaving his dull life and becoming someone – specifically someone living the gangster life on the Costa del Crime.

Oh Marbella! (2003)

RELEASED in 2003, and starring Rik Mayall, Tom Bell and Mike Reid, this is a light-hearted caper involving a couple of activists, a hitman with a prostate problem and a slimeball estate agent. It’s an easy watch and funny, and Marbella lovers will be able to relate to the joy each of the characters feels for the place.

The Only Way is Marbs (2012)

THE cast members of The Only Way is Essex are no strangers to Marbella or the Costa del Sol: this, after all, is their Spanish Essex (although to be fair they are associated with rather more downmarket Mijas these days). A cringy summer special, The Only Way is Marbs, sees the puffed up crowd jet off to their various holiday homes for fun, fights and frolics in the sun. The line ‘no carbs before Marbs’ became iconic (to them) and you can now find it printed on t-shirts.

SPOTTING stars in Marbella is relatively easy:

For 50 years, the biggest names in cinema have chosen the stunning destination to holiday and party together, and the tales of their exploits are legendary. Strangely though, it’s not as easy to find them in a film or TV series about the glitzy resort. Luckily though there are a few shows worth watching set in and around the resort, with the most recent appropriately called ‘ Marbella ’ (above) coming out on Movistar-plus last month.

Shows to watch if you like shouting ‘Been

there!’

Here, we pick out seven, with the earliest pushing its glamorous image with the big developers queing up to cash in on the tourism boom.

In recent years, Marbella has become more of a deluxe setting for the wild partying of reality TV show spin-offs. From time to time, it also appears as the backdrop for some nefarious wheeler-dealer action between various sets of criminals.

The Olive Press gets out the popcorn to pick the best English language films and TV shows that put the spotlight on Marbella.

Life on Marbs (2015)

AS reality TV shows in the UK got bigger, flashier and more ambitious, it’s inevitable that Marbella appeared on the producers’ radar. The spectacle of ‘influencers’ with lots of cash and problems jetting off to Spain to pursue business interests and party, remains a perennial source of fascination and guilty pleasure for British TV audiences. Life on Marbs features former Only Way is Essex cast members Ferne McCann and Elliot Wright, along with a host of Marbella business owners, models, and fitness trainers.

The Second Best Exotic Marigold Hotel (2015):

THIS movie follows Sonny Kapoor as he juggles his upcoming wedding with the ambitious dream of opening a new hotel. With his

loyal staff by his side, the film offers a heartwarming journey of love, self-discovery, and a touch of hilarious chaos. With a star-studded cast including Dame Judy Dench, Maggie Smith, Richard Gere and Bill Nighy, the filmmakers took viewers on a visual adventure, capturing the spirit of the story in Marbella and Malaga, although the principal Indian location of Jaipur is definitely more exotic.

Rise of the Footsoldier (2019)

DUBBED Britain’s answer to Narcos, it’s fair to say this film, starring Craig Fairbrass and Terry Stone, has not been quite as successful as the multi-award winning multi-season series across the Atlantic. However, the Marbella underworld gets some screen space. Fresh out of prison, an Essex gangster and nightclub owner heads to Marbella to seek revenge on the man who got him put behind bars and winds up with a drug deal. Trouble ensues.

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A princely legacy

Marbella owes its reputation as a destination for the wealthy jet-set to one well-connected man

to say he wasn't your typical royal.

In the 1940s, he fell under the spell of an unknown sleepy fishing village called Marbella.

Intrigued by its potential, he began buying land, initially for himself. But with

By Dilip Kuner

a keen eye for opportunity, he saw a chance to share his discovery with his wealthy international circle - and make

a handsome profit from the deal. Madrid-born Alfonso - full name Alfonso Maximiliano Victorio Eugenio Alejandro María Pablo de la Santísima Trinidad y Todos los Santos, Prinz zu Hohenlohe-Langenburg - started by selling plots to his well-heeled friends, the likes of the Rothschilds and Thyssens.

His own residence, Finca Santa Margarita, became a popular gathering spot. Recognising a golden opportunity, he transformed it into the Marbella Club in 1954, the first luxury hotel on the Costa del Sol, and now marking its 70th year. This wasn't just any hotel. The Marbella Club offered a unique blend of exclusivity and informality.

Its whitewashed villas, nestled amidst lush gardens, exuded a relaxed charm

that resonated with Europe's elite.

Soon, a steady stream of celebrities, royalty, and socialites found themselves drawn to this glamorous haven.

Sean Connery vacationed there, Ava Gardner partied there, and even King Saud of Saudi Arabia graced the club with his presence.

Marbella Club (now owned by the Shamoon family) became synonymous with luxury, transforming the once-quiet village into a jet-set playground.

Alfonso meanwhile decided to hop it, up into the mountains to nearby Ronda, where he bought an estate and planted a vineyard, which still produces wine to this day.

His family still own it, while his legacy very much lives on not just in the Marbella Club, but on the entire Costa del Sol.

Alfonso's vision and entrepreneurial spirit, after all, put Marbella on the map, ensuring its place as a destination for the rich and famous for decades to come.

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HOME TO HOTEL: The prince’s famous visitors loved his seafront estate so much he turned it into a hotel so they could pay for the privilege of visiting!

FAMOUS VISITORS: Brigitte Bardot (pictured left with Prince Alfonso), King Saud, Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn and Sean Connery were just a few of the ‘names’ to enjoy the prince’s hospitalty

A RESORT WITH MORE

Declared of Cultural Interest in 1985, the 15-metre Torre Ladrones (Thieves Tower) is the highest watchtower on the Malaga coast. The defensive structure dates from the Muslim period but some speculate the Romans first built it. You can find it close by the Artola dunes nature reserve and Cabopino port.

Visigoth vestiges

The Basílica de Vega del Mar in San Pedro was excavated in the 20th century on a former Roman road running from Cadiz to Cartagena. It is one of the few remaining examples of north African Visigothic churches built in Andalucia during the sixth century although all that remains today are its awesome one-metre walls.

Arabian delights

The Alcazaba fortress is the most important vestige of Muslim civilisation in Marbella. The Castillo was built in the 10th century during the reign of Abd al-Rahman III, Caliph of Córdoba.

The

Olive Press picks out 6 reasons to love Marbella

A Renaissance square

The Plaza de los Naranjos lies at the heart of Marbella’s old town. Built after the Christian Reconquest, it is an outstanding example of Castilian Renaissance architecture. From one of the many sun-soaked terraces, you can admire the Renaissance-style town hall, the Mayor’s house combining elements of Gothic, Renaissance and Mude jar design and the Chapel of Santiago, the oldest religious building in the city.

A salty start

In Roman ti mes, the city was called Salduba (Salt City) after the lo cal fish sal ting indus try. The Arabs changed it to Marbil-la, the origin of its current name and it’s spoton. In Spanish, Marbe lla means ‘beautiful sea.’

PEAK OF DINING

HERE in the world would you get to rub shoulders with the greats of global cuisine? The Godfathers of the culinary world like Joel Robuchon, Ferran Adria and Joan Roca, or the current wunderkinds in the kitchen like Daniel Humm, Quique Dacosta or Angel León? In Marbella, to be exact, where over the last two decades I have been lucky enough to grill all the above and a lot, lot more. Now, pick any restaurant

As well as the highest number of Michelin stars per capita in Andalucia, many of its chefs trained in the world’s best restaurants, explains Jon Clarke

around the world and, chances are, you’ll find a former chef is now based here in Europe’s ritziest resort for the super rich. Take Angelica Menin, 29, the head chef at new hotspot La Notaria in the heart of Marbs. The Italian from Padova arrived

here after a three year spell at the UK’s oldest three Michelin star restaurant, the Waterside Inn, Bray.

Then there’s Jose Godoy at Contracata who landed the first Michelin star for a Spanish restaurant in England, or Mi-

chel Dhondt at Macaao, who previously held a star in Belgium. There is no doubt Marbella has the best selection of restaurants in southern Spain. And I should know, having researched a popular restaurant book on Andalucia a decade ago and continually written about Spain’s dining aristoc-

PERCH: Punters enjoy the best view over Marbella at Sky Lounge

racy ever since.

That I got to hang out with Jamie Oliver in Ronda or was described by and I’ve seen Andalucia zoom up the rankings to become one of Europe’s best places to eat, hands down. And one of the key epicentres

And true luxury at Gaia at the Puente

Gordon Ramsay as ‘Andalucia’s top English food critic’ is small beer compared to the joy of seeing this region’s rapid rise up the food charts. It’s been a remarkable rollercoaster

has been Marbella, a town of just 150,000 souls, but with the second highest number of Michelin stars per capita in Spain after San Sebastian. Forget Sevilla or Malaga, Marbella has the best range and quality of restaurants I have come across. This is the most international food scene in Spain and it’s concentrated in an incredibly small, easy to navigate area.

But there is also a big string of great places to eat in Nueva Andalucia and San Pedro, while Elviria also has a decent pick too.

This is the most international food scene in Spain

As you can read in the next few pages, one of the main hives is the area just south of the Casco Historico, where you will find Ta-Kumi, Messina, Back, Kava, Skina and Nintai, all garlanded in the latest Michelin guide.

Most famous of all is on the Golden Mile in Marbella with the focus very much around the Puente Romano hotel, where you will find the famous brands, including Nobu, Cipriani and Coya.

They mostly sit around the Plaza area with my favourite being the Thai Gallery, while the exciting new addition this year was Gaia, a Greek restaurant that first launched in Mayfair. One of the most elegant spots

Continues on page 30

Candela Marbella, a restaurant right in the heart of the charming old town. Enjoy traditional local and national dishes with unique international touches and flavours thanks to our chefs Andi Zillner and Mathias Theodosis.

tel: 646 88 84 31 candelamarbella.com Pl. Gral. Chinchilla, 2, 29601 Marbella, Málaga

Dishes prepared according to the season and market

Mercado Central Marbella, Puesto 46 29601 Marbella

And what about a dream day out with a gourmet lunch on Candela’s stunning new yacht?

“A choice of four distinct menus, one vegan, perfect for a fun - or romantic - day out on the high seas!”

BEACHSIDE: Macaao has a lovely range of inspired dishes

GLAMOUR:

Romano hotel

VERY BONO

This hidden beach bar is one of the hottest places to seek out along Marbella’s eastern coastline this summer, writes Jon Clarke

BLINK and you could be in Ibiza. But this simple, sunbleached wood and tadelakt beach bar is actually in Marbella.

In truth, Bono Beach couldn't have found a better location; by the pro -

tected Dunas de Marbella nature reserve, between Los Monteros and Elviria.

Nestling seductively into the rolling dunes, its low key planting and wooden furnishings perfectly compliment the location.

DINING CAPITAL

imaginable with wonderful lighting and planting outside, an army of staff buzz around offering a huge array of fish cooked in six different ways.

We were taken up to the incredible fish ‘market’ where I was guided towards a fish called Alfonsino, which was carved up, firstly as a carpaccio, with three dressings, and then perfectly grilled as a main.

An excellent starter is Melitzanosalata, a smoky dream of

aubergine with yoghurt parsley tomato served on toast. The beef Keftedakia (meatballs) with mint and tomato sauce were also a great starter. The Cauliflower salad with avocado and goats cheese and caramelised walnuts and citrus dressing was packed full of goodness.

On the Golden Mile you can also find the excellent Italian, Cibo , a stylish place that serves the best pizzas on the coast.

A stylemeister’s dream, with natural rope awnings, white banquette seats and the odd flash of colour in the coral cushions, it is the creation of interior designer Angela Perez and carpenter Julio Martinez. The scene is set with an interior for winter, with curved white tadelakt walls around the bar and a warm dining area with white rattan chairs. Commis -

There are always a great number of specials by the day and an excellent range of wines. I loved the langoustines done on the open grill as well as the Aracini, fried risotto balls with crab Bruschetta of basil sun dried tomatoes and mozzarella

A main course of spicy tuna belly spaghetti comes highly recommended while the beef tagliata cooked on the grill then cut into slices was

page 29 perfectly delivered (tomatoes and rocket alongside).

sioned by the expat-owned Metro Group, they have fashioned easily one of the hottest beach restaurants for this summer.

And thankfully it has food to match, with an alluring menu that features a great amount of cooling starters, a salad section, and even a refined sushi section with half a dozen options and the so-called ‘deluxe’ which has all of them for just €58.

The nicely marbled fat certainly showed how healthy it is.

For second courses I tested the Josper grill with a perfectly cooked Wagyu beef picanha. It came with Chimichurri sauce and tenderstem broccoli, deliciously braised in a soy, sesame and mint sauce.

A lobster linguini came in a champagne herb butter sauce

The green gazpacho with cucumber, kale and avo cado is the perfect tonic to a blistering day. Literal ly served on a bed of ice, the crunchy kale makes it a surefire winner. I also loved the soft shell crab tempura with yuzu ponzu dress ing, a very wel come addition to the coast.

A Wagyu beef carpaccio meanwhile, with pick led shimeji mushrooms was nice but perhaps a bit too piquant with the shrooms.

REFRESHING: The green gazpacho is perfect for a hot day

My wife went for the dish of kings, a lobster linguini, which came in a champagne herb butter sauce, but perhaps with a We dined to the ambient sounds of a DJ, drinking Petit Chablis by Thierry Mothe at just €9 and an albarino (señorio de

But there are plenty of wines by the glass, including Moet & Chandon champagne at €16 and even a decent Bordeaux, Chateau Marjosse, at just €7. That said, I preferred the Pomal críanca from Rioja which was even better

Oh and as the sun goes down there is a big handy cocktail menu with most coming in at around €15. They’ve definitely got their priori -

Another restaurant that is rapidly taking the coast by storm is Nomad, in Nueva Andalucia.

Launched by Alex Craciun of the UK’s leading Jason Atherton group, this is glamour personified.

For beach clubs, Bono Beach is a surefire winner, in particular, for its amazing attention to detail and client care.

Another beach favourite, Macaao recently reopened with a stunning refit and remains one of the best coastal restaurants around.

Meanwhile in the heart of the old town is Candela a great spot and a surefire winner.

In the tourist hive of Puerto Banus one might expect it to be rammed with great places to eat, but the truth is it can be very hit and miss.

Stick with the classic spots like Jacks, Leone and Mumtaz, probably the best Indian in Marbella, and you can’t go wrong.

You might also walk out of the port up towards the unbelievably popular stalwart of La Sala… that is if you can get in.

This is the place to do your star spotting and just about everyone who’s anyone has been to eat here, even including Jamie Oliver, Harry Kane and Tyson Fury.

Most likely Marbella’s most successful restaurant of the last decade, it employs over 100 staff and includes a football team of investors, who have just launched their new Clubhouse sports bar and restaurant below.. The food is excellent for its location, but the menu changes regularly and there will always be some entertainment. In particular, with the fellow guests.

IBIZA VIBE: Bono Beach is chic and simple

GAME-CHANGER: Nomad in Nueva Andalucia

LIT UP: Candela is the pick of the old town

SUPER CIBO: The Italian is one of the best on the coast

GODFATHERS: Ta-kumi’s Alvaro and Toshio and (below) David (at the back) at Back

FINE ITALIAN: Garden at Casa Tua

A nerve centre for gourmands has sprung up over recent years in a hive of streets just south of Marbella’s Casco Antiguo, writes Jon Clarke

trade in Marbella head for light lunches or big slap up meals with clients that often continue ‘sobremesa style’ into the early evening.

It is not for nothing that its apex is Calle Notario Luis Oliver, named after a well known Marbella lawyer and notary, with hundreds of legal firms being based within a ten-minute walk.

“There is so much passing trade from lawyers and business folk all year round,” explains Luis, who runs the popular El Albero on this very street.

“If you want to survive here you need to provide good quality food and wine,” adds the chef, who relocated here with his wife Marta from the nearby casco historico two years ago.

adds British expat Emma Tremlett, who runs a candle shop, Alma Essentials, next door. “It’s gaining a real personality, which is excellent and we sometimes hear it called ‘Downtown’ or even ‘Little Soho’,” she adds.

So it was perhaps no surprise then, that I recently found two new young restau-

rateurs who had both made their names back in the UK.

His journey to Marbella came via stints at top rated Mugaritz and Arzak

And he’s not the only one, with Irish expat Catherine Visentin and her husband Adriano, from Milan, also relocating their highly-rated Italian, Casa Tua, here a couple of years ago.

“While it lacks a bit of the charm of the historic old town we have a much nicer space to work in and have built up a good loyal trade,” explains the mother-of-two.

Things are going so well for the pair, they are about to open a new wine bar just up the road, so watch this space.

“It’s definitely a very up and coming area,”

One Italian, one Spanish, each clearly has the Aperfect pedigree to be successful in this incredibly competitive part of the coast’s dining Mecca.

Jose Gonzalez Godoy, at Contracata, actually won the first Michelin star for a Spanish restaurant in the UK, while working as General Manager at Ametsa, in London.

Known as ‘Godoy’ his journey to Marbella came via stints at globally-famous Mugaritz and Arzak in the Basque Region, as well as two years as a sommelier for Marbel-

la’s super-chef Dani Garcia nearby.

I was particularly impressed with his carefully thought-out menu that included some delights, such as a ‘yoghurt of foie gras’ with Parmesan foam, as well as an unusual ‘cachopo’ from Asturias. While the place is understandably big on wines by the glass, having trained as a sommelier, his punchy fish red curry with coconut milk was full of flavour and at €9, coming with a bowl of rice and steamed vegetables, is easily the best value dish around.

It is a similar story for Angelica Menin, 29, from Padova, who made her way to restaurant, La Notaria, also via Dani Garcia and Malaga’s Michelin star chef Jose Carlos Garcia.

But her true claim to fame was her three year stint working at the UK’s most prestigious three star joint, the Waterside Inn, in Bray.

Learning her trade under Michel Roux was the ‘best possible experience imaginable’ and this has clearly rubbed off on the quality of food at La Notaria.

While the menu feels formal, her Spanish tortilla was the best I’ve eaten in Andalucia, created with a true deft touch and her red mullet was cooked to absolute perfection. There was also tons of local

fresh seafood and a good number of specials of the day.

“This is easily the most exciting area to cook in Andalucia,” explains Angelica. “There are so many good chefs around and the competition is healthy.

“While the rich and famous know the Puente Romano and the Marbella Club, they

are starting to find our area too, where the food is equally good and is a lot cheaper,” she adds.

The truth is the food around here is actually often better and is, most of the time, half the price.

Take the restaurants

Ta-Kumi Kava and Back which won its first Michelin star six months ago, under the guidance of wellknown and popular local chef David Olivas.

12PM-5PM C. NOTARIO LUIS OLIVER, 7, 29602 MARBELLA

He and Alvaro Arbeloa at Ta-Kumi have become the true godfathers of the area, now that Dani Garcia has gone into cyberspace.

The pair, along with Marcos Granda, who owns nearby Michelin starred joints Nin-

SLICE OF HEAVEN: Angelica’s tortilla at La Notaria

AUTHENTIC: Luis and Marta at El Albero and classic dish (left)

CREATIVE: Interior and dish at Contracata

From page 33

DINING SECRETS

closeby Calima for years and oversaw its rise to three Michelin stars two years ago, before Garcia chucked it all in, preferring to cash in with McDonalds ads and

my favourite place to eat in Marbella, a consistently brilliant Japanese, which is unsurprisingly where celebrities like Ronaldo like to eat when in town.

No surprise it has recently expanded to Madrid, with a third joint in Malaga, and the attention to detail, much thanks to co-owner Anabel Amuedo, from Sevilla, is second to none.

Having undergone a recent upgrade it is even more stylish than before, with minimalism and slick lines order of the day.

It also helps to have 80-something

Japanese maestro Toshio Tsutsui, from Fukuoka, who lives across the road and insists on coming in daily

This is a place to enjoy a tour of Japan’s best dishes, from a simple, good value Miso soup to a soft shell crab Temaki, which I could eat every day. If these

are the godfathers, then

the godmother must certainly be Carlota (predictably perhaps a lawyer by training) who is the boss at Gaspar, which has been serving great quality food for a quarter of a century. Simple, good value soul-cooking it’s a charming joint with a cornucopia of collectables from bullfighters capes to typewriters and murano bottles to sewing machines. The menu is scribbled out each morning by hand and is entirely seasonal, although many recipes have been tried and tested for years. These include various stews (such as a potaje of chickpeas and chard) which are offered as half portions (media raciones) if you want to share a few more things or are eating alone. And surprise, surprise, there is another lawyer who has switched from the courtroom to the kitchen in the area.

Marbella-born Fernando Alcala, whose restaurant Kava has already grabbed a Repsol Sol and a Michelin mention, had a top job as a lawyer in Switzerland, before he decided to learn how to cook and return home to open his hip spot here.

CREATIVITY: Dishes at brand new La Madrina

His attention to detail is big in both decor and layout and it’s great that his chefs double up as waiters to serve up the food, explaining it to the customers as they do.

I was particularly impressed with another nearby joint, La Madrina Gastro Grill, which sits just the other side of Avenida del Mar.

Billing itself as a home of ‘pure gastronomy’, it is run by another local lad, Antonio Rivas, who also has pedigree with a French father, who runs a gourmet restaurant Casa Rivas in the nearby market.

This new spot is set around a hip bar area with a show grill at the back. This is where the magic hap-

pens and with two grill professionals, one from Japan and another from Argentina vying to be the best.

I loved his black pudding wonton with sweet chilli, while his bluefin tuna on toast is a classic ‘bomba’, served on a sweet caramelised millefeuille toast and kimchi.

While it really shouldn’t work his steak tartare croissant was actually amazing with parmesan sprinkled on top. Oh, and the cheesecake with pistachio ice cream made from a brie from nearby Campillos was legendary.

mono. More traditional Spanish fare can be had at El Albero, whose owners Marta, from Salamanca, and Luis, from the wine region of Valdepenas, offer superb fabadas from Asturias and a classic cocido stew from Madrid.

There is a real fusion of exotic dishes with an asiatic flavour

Equally creative is Sauvage whose two talented Marbella chefs have trained at a very high level.

Award-winning Daniel Ortega did his time at three Michelin-starred Celler de Can Roca, while Nacho Espana trained at the Marbella Club hotel, where they both met.

Exotic in both look and in its menus, there is a real fusion of dishes with an asiatic flavour. They include the Osaka pork ribs cooked at very low temperature, the Yakiniku baos with slow cooked Iberican pork or the Peking duck dumplings with hoisin toffee and cucumber suno-

The menu is simple but good value with lots of tostas and traditional dishes like salmorejo and gazpacho soup, perfect for hot days, while the oxtail (rabo de toro) was surprisingly good.

Finally, fancy a burger then around the corner you will find Gourmet Burger Room, does exactly what it says on the tin… and it has been doing it for eight years.

Run by a Frenchman Franck, he clearly knows his onions but isn’t scared to graft having done his time in hotels and restaurants in France and also a decade in Marbella. You choose your type of burger (there are dozens, including vegetarian and even vegan ones) and then one of three buns… In particular I recommend the ‘Milano’ which comes with Gorgonzola, bacon and mushroom.

RESERVAS | +34 611 365 137

Av. Puerta del Mar, 12 - Marbella

TOP TRAINING: Daniel and Nacho

from Sauvage have worked with the best and (right) Fernando from Kava has a Repsol Sol

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