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www.theolivepress.es
The
Alpujarra
of Granada June 2022
IDYLLIC: Vista over Cañar, while (below) Garcia Lorca and Jo Chipchase
Nowhere to Lorca, everything to me F
EDERICO Garcia Lorca once described La Alpujarra as ‘the land of nowhere’, and this remained true when I first visited in the early 2000s. It was as if time stood still in the charming, white villages and the vast, open spaces with the background hum of crickets. Our trip was to see friends who had bought land near the village of Lobras, a 45-minute drive from the spiritual, central hub of Orgiva, where they could enjoy a slower pace of life, restore a ruin, and keep animals. Fresh off the plane from Malaga Airport, I was immediately impressed by the Alpujarran landscape with its imposing mountains that dropped down to leafy terraces laden with olive groves, and just about any fruit tree you could name. While the winding roads seemed to go on
After a series of holidays in the Alpujarra, journalist Jo Chipchase upped sticks and moved her family to the region over a decade ago forever, the views and closeness to nature more than compensated for the distance. The endless sunshine and – of course - the local vino and tapas was a great bonus. On a later visit to the village of Almegijar, my friends and I lost the booking itinerary and our sense of direction. Hopelessly wandering the Sierra de Contraviesa, miles off-route, we passed through a small village where people were laying down what looked like twigs in the road (years later, I discovered this was esparto grass, used for weaving the likes of shoes and blinds and lampshades).
Lemon As the designated driver, I couldn’t decide what to do – continue over the unknown material or stop and wait for guidance. The famous book on the region, Driving Over Lemons, by Chris Stewart had taken over a new meaning: Were we driving over someone’s livelihood? On that occasion, we waited, I am pleased to report.
We eventually found Almegijar, and discovered that our accommodation was a rustic farmhouse, shared with several generations of the host family. The traditional Spaniards looked bemused as we downed a five-litre bottle of grandpa’s ‘costavin’, before passing out on the lawn, in the true style of mad dogs and Englishmen in the midday sun. Back in those days, I was a ‘townie’ and had few skills that could apply to rural settings. Changing bottles of butane gas to shower and cook can be difficult if you’re used to England’s piped supply. Going out in the mountains with friends, it took me a while to realise that a hot day didn’t automatically equate to a warm night. I remember trying to borrow someone’s yoga mat as a cover, because I was shivering, and was curtly Continues on next page
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From front
Alpujarra
DREAM HOME
Granting an audience A TRUE jewel of La Mareina, Nevada, Las Chimeneas hotel and restaurant appeared in the BBC series, Write Around the World in 2021. In it celebrated Hollywood star Richard E. Grant, waxed lyrical about the book written by owners, Emma and David Illsley - ‘Las Chimeneas: Recipes and Stories from an Alpujarran village’.
told to give it back. At that time, the Alpujarra was markedly different to the more modern, tourist savvy destinations of today. The villages had few amenities and some clearly hadn’t seen many extranjeros (foreigners). Outside the main towns of Orgiva and Lanjaron, shopping was very limited and there were no fancy goods. Most shops stocked largely local produce, which was great if you were a massive carnivore. In the mid-2000s, Orgiva reminded me of a frontier town, where locals rode around in dodgy old Land Rovers and attended all-night parties in the nearby settlements of Cigarrones or El Morreon. There were dozens of New Age types around every corner and I was reminded of Glastonbury festival, but in the hot sun. I’ll never forget the legendary Dragon Festival in Cigarrones - a week-long bash that almost never stopped. Unfortunately, a visiting friend from Brighton didn’t share my enthusiasm, pronouncing it ‘like a dusty Mad Max’ and dragging me away, crestfallen, to a quiet bar. I eventually relocated with my young sons to the spa town of Lanjaron, which is best known for its spring water and annual festival of water and ham that coincides with the saint’s day of San Juan. Although I’ve enjoyed the mass San Juan water fight on June 24 - when thousands of revellers run around, throwing water at each other while shouting, ‘oi oi, mucho agua, mucho agua’ - I’m getting too old for such shenanigans. A night-time soaking, even in sum-
RURAL: Goats pass beside a bridge near Orgiva, while (below) high mountain views and (left) an esparto grass head, while (right) Lanjaron and Arabic water course
mer, is bracingly cold. These days, I prefer photographing the colourful event from a vantage point, away from the powerful municipal water hoses. Over the years, we saw Lanjaron become increasingly busy, with the introduction of mountain bike events, car rallies, and growth in the tourism sector. Although I still love the town, it was time to move onwards… and
upwards. Seeking a more tranquil setting, we relocated to a mountain idyll at 1,700m, among the pine, oak, and roble trees, and with ample room for dogs and horses. I love the high sierra, where you can drive through a shady pine forest, head up a steep mountain track, go over the ridge, and look down on the villages of Capileira, Bubion and Pampaneira nestled below. This is a beautiful sight in winter, when snow has fallen, and the white peaks form an impressive backdrop behind Capileira. Fresh air, mountain trails and proximity to some of my favourite places, including the Poqueira Valley, Soportujar, and La Taha, is more than enough to convince me La Alpujarra is my home.
3 June 2022
MY SECRET ALPUJARRA
Happy shopper
Jo Chipchase’s insider guide on what to do in the region
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WO of my favourite remote spots are the Puente Palo recreation area above Canar – a shaded spot in the pine forest - and the Dique 24 dam of the Rio Chico between Canar and Soportujar, which has a 30-metre waterfall. Watch out if you suffer from vertigo! The Dique 24 is on the ancient GR7 footpath that runs through Spain to France. I also love the GR 240 ‘Sendero Sulayr’ trail that runs from Puente Palo to Capileira and gives impressive views over the Poqueira Valley and the white villages. I’ve ridden there a few times, but the trail is currently in bad condition for hooved animals. Not far from this trail, you can navigate to the Buddhist retreat centre of O Sel Ling and view the statue of Tara. You could also head down to Soportujar: a busy town with a witchy theme park vibe.
A trip along the A-4132
If you don’t enjoy Shank’s Pony, La Alpujarra is great for car trips. Driving towards Trevelez, on the A-4132 from Orgiva, you’re within 35 mins of Pampaneira, Bubion and Capileira, and La Taha of Pitres. Near Pitres, the unspoilt village of Atalbeitar is attractive for photos and affords peace and quiet. From there, a narrow and steep road leads down to Ferreirola, and then to Mecina Fondales, which has several bars and restaurants – including a vegetarian option - as well as the Fondales hotel. Leaving Pitres and heading along the A-4132 for another 14km, you come to Trevelez, which is best known for its cured ham – ‘jamon serrano’ – which hangs from the ceiling of bars. Although an overdose of ham isn’t really my thing, I’ve been there in winter when a heavy snowfall occurred. It was picture postcard pretty, and I still use the photos for Christmas cards. Take the A-4130 out of Trevelez and, in 19km, you come to the town of Berchules. This town holds an unusual, annual fiesta known as “New Year in August” – a custom which started in 1994, after an electricity outage kyboshed the normal celebration on 31 December. I’ve attended this crazy event: it’s odd to experience Christmas traditions in the heat of summer.
Past Mairena it is worth stopping at Laroles
My family has enjoyed many happy visits to this town. Laroles has a cultural week called ‘Me Vuelves Lorca’, geared around the famous playwright Federico Garcia Lorca, in the first week of August. It’s also an ideal base for outdoor pursuits. One of our favourite spots is Puerta de Ragua, a 20min drive up the A-337. Located at 2,000m, it affords panoramic views to the east if you walk up the slope behind the main car park. This is a site for winter sports, such as skiing or sledging. If you continue over the hairpin mountain pass, you can see the ancient castle of La Calahorra and emerge at Guadix. Also located near Laroles is the charming town of Bayarcal, which has a new adventure sports centre and restaurant, called La Talama. The zip line looks exciting - but maybe I’ll just watch the teens.
And towards Almeria… Heading past Bayarcal towards Laujar de Andarax, you enter the Almerian Alpujarra. Comprising 22 towns, this area is easily accessible via the fast A-348 primary road connecting Lanjaron and Almeria. I recommend the A-348 to anyone wanting a day trip through the Granada and Almeria Alpujarra, without too many twists and turns.
The gems of Nevada
If you take the high road from Berchules, rather than passing through the lower towns of Ugijar and Cherin, you reach Nevada – a charming municipality combining Laroles, Júbar, Mairena and Picena. On route, you drive through Yegen, where celebrated expat writer Gerald Brennan lived from 1919 to 1936. Some of his accounts of village life ring true to this day, and his famous book, South from Granada, is well worth reading if you’re interested in rural Spain and its history.
NEW ADDITION: Snazzy new Consum supermarket in Orgiva
E.S. ÓRGIVA
AUTO-SERVICE LAUNDERETTE (WASH & DRY CLOTHES) SELF-SERVICE CARWASH ADBLUE CAFE
Telf. 958 785 125 C/. Fuente Mariano, 1
4 June 2022
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On-trend -trend in Orgiva F
REYA Ruth Rodgers is an inspiration to women in business. The British businesswoman set up Orgiva’s buzzing new fashion store, El Armario de Freya, in November 2021, after a two-year battle against breast cancer. El Armario attracts a diverse clientele from traditional Spanish ladies to the Northern European residents of Orgiva’s alternative communities – all of whom find a little something to suit their taste and budget. The shop has many repeat customers, who visit weekly or even daily! Freya moved to the area after her brand came to a standstill in Marbella following an exhausting chemotherapy programme. Having previously lived in Lanjaron, where she ran the popular Ambienza vegetarian café
Natty dreads to funky fashionistas. A new expat-owned fashion store is serving Alpujarran style to them all, writes Jo Chipchase a decade ago, she is delighted to be back working in the area. “Except for running Ambienza, I’ve worked as a buyer and window dresser all my life,” she tells the Olive Press. “But in 2020, I was diagnosed with breast cancer, and believe that ongoing stress contributed to my medical problems. I loved my work in Marbella but had too many responsibilities and hours.” She continues: “The chemotherapy programme ran from
STYLISH: Original bespoke items in shop and (above) Freya models some wares
October 2020 to May 2021 and when I returned to work afterwards, I felt totally drained. “I was living in La Alpujarra and doing radiotherapy in Malaga, which involved constant driving. I also had to collect my daughter from school and deal with the animals – it was a vicious cycle. So I decided to open my own shop, where I could apply my fashion retail experience locally. When I wasn’t at radiotherapy sessions, I was setting up the new shop interior with my supportive girlfriend, who is very practical. “We created all the fixtures and fittings ourselves because the builder was poorly, believe it or not! I was frazzled but wanted to open before Christmas last year.” And it duly did, launching in late November with a big party attended by local dignitaries and some of the alternative community: an interesting mixture of people. Her job now, she
explains, is to keep a keen eye on the area’s fashion trends. “The main Alpujarran styles are soft, natural fabrics combined with flattering, timeless cuts with a bohemian twist,” she says. “You never know what people might buy. Traditional, Spanish ladies might choose a tie dye jumpsuit, while members of the local communities usually favour the ball gowns.” Has Orgiva progressed over the years in fashion terms? “The area still attracts the same type of people, with the same type of style, but now they spend more money on fashion and are more conscious of their appearance.” To promote her shop, Freya held a well-received fashion show at La Fabrica, in Lanjaron, in February. “We teamed the catwalk shows with seasonal food to reflect the spring/summer season. All models were from the local communities, of Spanish, English and other nationalities, and of various ages, shapes, and sizes.” She is now set to launch an ecommerce website by the end of summer. Follow her on Instagram at www.instagram.com/el_armario_de_freya/
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CHEZ CHRIS
Most expats are familiar with Chris Stewart’s idyllic Alpujarran adventures. So when the author invited The Olive Press to his stunning farm to sample his hospitality, we couldn’t wait to dust off our hiking boots
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T’S the oddest sensation arriving at a place in real life that your imagination has already painted for you, from the words in a book. El Valero, the home of best-selling author Chris Stewart, is intimately familiar to his millions of readers, myself included, and the reality doesn’t disappoint. The setting for each of his four books, which started with Driving Over Lemons and most recently continued with The Last Days of the Bus Club, we first spotted the rural idyll far down below from an escarpment in the heart of the mountainous Alpujarras region of Granada. We had been walking for three hours from the sleepy village of Ferreirola, where we were beSADDLE UP: Horse riding ing garrotted for the nights, when an excited in the Poqueira valley Canadian in our group spotted the famous farmhouse below. The valley opened wider with every precipitous step down to the tree-covered retreat, where the original drummer from rock band Genesis was waiting for a famous guitar maker and even a handful of expats. Our us with a jug of home-made pomegranate juice and freswalking group of 14 people almost doubled their number! hly-baked focaccia. We were a disparate group drawn from all ‘walks of life’, It is rare indeed for a bestselling author to throw his home united by a love of the great outdoors, great conversation open to fans; to invite them to walk, talk and and the greatest food and wine! laugh with him and sample his home-grown From the Geordie medical worker who had pomegranates - and luckily also plenty of beer spent the last 30 years in Australia, to the lawOnly 18 and wine! yer and pub-owning couple from Devon, to the But Chris is like few other famous novelists; Scottish park ranger and his wife, a teacher of people live incredibly open and warm and - thanks to his autistic children, like the Canterbury Pilgrims permanently in there was never a shortage of fascinating stolove of the nearby mountains and walking had teamed up with a British hotel owner, Anne ries waiting to be told. A Canadian couple had the beautiful CHOPPING THEM OUT: Chris prepairing our lunch Hunt, to organise some walking tours. planned an entire trip around the walking hovillage We joined the liday. first one for the Thus, with the sunshine beginning to warm up ride, well, to the streets, we set off towards El Valero, the be exact, walk, meeting the self-sufficient farmhouse which first blossomed into our lives group in Ferreirola, just as when Chris’ first bestseller hit the shelves in 1999: Driving the hazy dawn was begin- Over Lemons: An Optimist in Andalucia. ning to flesh out the drama- Our journey took us down the mountainside and across a tic silhouettes of the sierras charming, crumbly Roman bridge spanning the Trevelez river ahead. below, the ideal spot to begin snapping photos. As the rising sun lit up the We built up speed as we traversed the Corona mountain by VISIT US IN BAYÁRCAL, AT THE road, the mountain peaks way of an old Moorish mule path, and the noise of our chaTALAMA UNIVERSAL RECREATION and the glistening reservoirs, tter also went up a notch. I sensed that this day would “People loved the pilot holiday so much that we had to do it AREA – A PLACE YOU CAN’T MISS! be special. again,” explained Anne, whose pre-Alpujarran life saw her The tiny village takes ‘tran- organising festivals, concerts and events in London. quilo’ to a whole new level “The area is just fantastic but what makes it special is the mix and you could hear a pin of people and Chris’ enthusiasm and knowledge.” drop as I roamed the steep After just a few hours, the mellow descent through pine trees cobbled streets. led us to a wondrous gorge and, in its depths, our lunch Only 18 people live perma- destination loomed into view. nently in what is quite possi- Our sense of awe was as profound, Chris assured me, as he bly the most beautiful village and his wife Anna felt when they first set eyes upon this valley in the Alpujarras, including and decided to make it their home.
Great zipline and children’s zipline, Canoying, Yoga, Mindfulness, Ebike, Climbing, Summer camp
ARU Talama B Natural, AL-5402, 04479 Bayárcal, Almería @BNATURALSPORT TEL: 660 559 950 www.bnaturalsport.com bnaturalbayarcal@gmail.com
TRADITIONAL, HOMEMADE ALPUJARRAN FOOD Giant burgers, vegetarian and vegan options, eco cooking
TALAMA RESTAURANT talamabar@gmail.com TEL: 950 52 73 74 @TALAMARESTAURANT
TOUR GUIDE: Chris explains a high moutain acequia
7 June 2022 DARING: Zip wire at La Talama and (right) mountain biking
GET OUT THERE! Whatever your bag, there is so much outdoor activity around La Alpujarra and nearby Lecrin Valley
Where it was once sparse and arid, they have created a micro-climate, complete with a charming old green-roofed farmhouse and an extraordinary pool. There are acres of orchards, a kitchen garden where the family grow their vegetables and free-range chickens keep them supplied with fresh eggs and meat. It is a little gem of a world full of vitality, adventure and legend ... the kind of place you could write a book about! Assisted by their daughter Chloe, Chris and Anna laid out a delicious spread for us on their shady terrace. We tucked into quiches, hummus and fresh herby salad, while swapping stories of Andalucia with our hosts. The wine flowed, loosening tongues, and talk of the Alpujarras turned into a lively debate on Spanish politics. Slipping away for a moment, I wanted to take a closer look at the fascinating pool which features so heavily in Chris’ writing. The waterwheel was the brain-child of an oddball inventor who convinced the family it would purify water naturally and keep the pool fresh and natural. Encrusted with a thick carpet of leaves and tinged green, it looked a little too ‘natural’ and I resisted the urge to dive in. Back on the terrace, Chris and Anne had ditched the diplomatic approach and openly admitted that our group was exceptional. “You’re the booziest, funniest and most enjoyable group yet… cheers!” exclaimed the jovial Chris, raising his glass in a toast. And after welcoming us into his home and feeding us, Chris seized the opportunity to take full advantage of the merry walkers. We were soon all buying signed copies from his backlog of unsold books, helping him to clear out the store room! Refuelled with spiced peaches and more wine for the daunting post-lunch walk, it turned out to be a pleasant stroll back along the river, across his famous rustic bridge and straight onto our waiting minibus. That night, while dining back at the wonderful B&B Casa Ana, we were treated to the mesmerising songs of a Moldovan folk singer, who just happened to be volunteering there through a ‘work-away’ scheme. It was our lucky day in more ways than one. As her sweet voice carried tales of love and pain around the room, it seemed to echo the ancient beauty of the stunning Alpujarras. In that moment, I think we all fell a little in love with the girl from Moldova. Or was that just me? For more information visit www.casa-ana.com or email info@casa-ana.com
SOUTH of Granada, a whole world of adventure awaits you in the mountains. From 400m to 3,479m - this being the top of Spain’s highest peak Mulhacén - the active among us are spoiled for choice. La Alpujarra has an extensive network of routes for hiking, mountain biking and electric bicycles, ideal for traversing beautiful pine forests, oak, and chestnut groves – some at an altitude of 1,500 metres. Cycling on the trails above the high villages of Capileira and Trevélez, the highest in the region, is breathtaking. There are also companies that specialise in horse routes high on the mountainside, including Caballo Blanco in Lanjaron and Dallas Love’s Sierra Trails in Capileira. Various companies have set up to offer a range of adventures around the region. One of the best, Adventure Alpujarra, organises everything from gentle morning hikes to mountaineering with crampons and ice axes in the winter months. “We offer mountain skiing, canyoning, rappelling, rock climbing, snowshoeing and ascents of Mulhacen and Veleta too,” explains technical director Jose Antonio Barea Gonzalez. “We can take you to remote paths, hidden rivers and find you natural pools for swimming. “You can explore the architecture, gastronomy, and customs while hiking through the terrain,” Watersports Centre – Open from June to September (in the morning) he adds. “There’s also horseback riding along from Monday to Sunday. footpaths that nestle on Courses include: the mountain slopes. Or explore in a 4x4 offKayak, Paddle Boarding, Windsurfing, Catamaran, Sailing, road vehicle, or a quad, to reach remote places Classes, Courses, Rentals, Routes, Summer Camp where others rarely go? “Our experienced guireservas@aventuraalpujarra.es tel: 638 597 715 / 617 228 085 des can cater for everyone from complete novices to seasoned
Alpujarras bikes
NAUTICAL CENTRE
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ADVENTURE AGENCY
TRIPS & JOURNEYS
Quad bike routes, bicycle routes, hiking, routes with snowshoes, archery, farewells, birthdays, paintball, rock climbing, trekking reservas@aventuraalpujarra.es tel: 638 597 715 / 617 228 085
viajes@aventuraalpujarra.es tel: 655 772 688 / 654 409 416 638 597 715
www.aventuraalpujarra.es
aventuraalpujarra
Camino Santiago
Camino Santiago Camino Francés, Primitivo, Portugués, Inglés, Norte Weekend Breaks
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From previous page
The
Alpujarra
CUISINE OF LA ALPUJARRA
GET OUT THERE
mountaineers.” Other activities organised by Adventure Alpujarra include paintball, archery, rifle shooting and orienteering. For those who like the water, why not visit the group’s nautical centre at the beautiful Beznar reservoir (see above). During summer, you can sail optimists or catamarans, as well as windsurf or go paddle surfing, kayaking or just pootle about on pedal boats to explore the reservoir. You can book a ‘nautical day’ for families or groups of friends. The centre also hosts nautical camps for all ages. “It’s important to remember that we’re in a protected natural area and these activities must be done with companies registered by the Junta,” adds Jose Antonio. “Our company guarantees the right permits and security measures.”
Zipping the Wire Fantastic: For something really exciting, head down to the La Talama outdoors centre at Bayarcal, at the Eastern end of the Alpujarra. Located near the stunning Puerta de Ragua, this is a magical place for an active day out, and guests are welcomed for longer stays. The centre combines the local gastronomy at Restaurant Talama with the adventure and ecotourism activities of B Natural Sport. BNatural’s English-speaking staff will help you enjoy Great Zipline of Andalucia (620m of adrenaline), flying over the Sierra Nevada! If the zip line doesn’t take your fancy, there are plenty of other activities, including canyoning, climbing, electric bike routes, hiking, bird watching, star watching, yoga, spiritual retreats, forest baths, mindfulness, slackline, archery – as well celebrating special events, such as birthdays. Children have their own activities - including a junior zip line, climbing and archery and a great summer camp. Described as ‘personalised’ tourism, where you design your adventure, it combines sports, health, nature, and education. There are also language immersion and language swap courses on offer. The icing on the cake is the Talama Restaurant, where you can enjoy breakfast, lunch, or dinner, serving homemade dishes based on organic fruit and vegetables, picked from the garden. The menu includes vegan and vegetarian options, local wines, and an assortment of Alpujarra sausages and special desserts.
Poor man’s potatoes and young goat is on the menu
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HE Alpujarra region has various signature dishes served to visitors in the area’s countless bars and restaurants. Best of all, during certain hours of the day, you almost always receive a tapa if you buy a drink. Alternatives exist to the traditional cuisine - which some people adore, while others feel is ‘too hammy’, or lacking in vegetarian options. One place that prepares a popular selection of modern food is Pizza & Love, in Orgiva. This is the place to enjoy an artisan pizza cooked in a wood oven, with slow fermentation in a Neapolitan style, and with vegetarian and gluten-free options available. The restaurant has recently introduced a special
range of burgers, as well as a main menu catering for omnivores and vegetarians/vegans alike. For the summer season, Pizza & Love is introducing discounts and special deals on Wednesdays, Sundays, and Fridays. Cocktails are also planned, which can be enjoyed in chilled-out surroundings – with love. Watch out for these favourites of the region:
sonal delight, an extremely tasty stew made with fennel and chickpeas.
Migas - Breadcrumbs fried and frequently served with green pepper. Orgiva has a migas-cooking contest during its annual fiesta.
Papas a lo pobre – despite the unappealing name, the ‘poor man’s potatoes’ are – in fact - delicious, comprising thinly-sliced potatoes fried in olive oil, with onion.
Choto – Kid or young goat. This dish is frequently served when people gather in groups, particularly at countryside retreats.
Plato Alpujarreño – a dish featuring ‘papas lo del pobre’ as well as ham, morcilla, ‘longaniza’, pork, serrano ham and fried egg. You’ll be feeling stuffed after this one!
Puchero de Hinojos – a sea-
Tortilla – omelette featuring potato and egg. This is best when it’s freshly cooked. Cazuela – taking its name from the term ‘cooking pot’, this is any type of stew containing potatoes, vegetables and meat.
Cod (bacalao) – sometimes salted, sometimes prepared with garlic and tomato sauce.
9 June 2022
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All the fun of the fair
RGIVA doesn’t actually celebrate Saint Michael (September 29), but it does have its annual fair during this time. Originally based on livestock selling (Ganados) and horse trading, it was the time of year when farmers from all over the Alpujarras would bring their beasts down from the hills and mountains to be sold or traded. During the fiesta, very proud horsemen and women dress in traditional country apparel and parade their prized steeds up and down the streets, preparing for the ribbon race (Cintas) on the Saturday. Kids will do this race as well on pedal bikes. The aim is for the jockey or cyclist to spear the ribbon while travelling at speed on a tarmac road. The ribbon has a value written on it as a prize. Now, I have done quite a lot of horse riding and you get to know that metal horseshoes and tarmac create very slippery conditions so, if you go to spectate, keep your distance. Six hundred kilos of horse and rider with no
Extract from ‘A Chancer’s Guide to Rural Spain’ by Andy Bailey brakes sliding towards you is not funny. It’s a four-day party. Thursday through to Sunday. The bars spill out on to streets, cooking all sorts of delights, and the aroma of freshly cooked sardines fills your senses. The ladies of the town dress in fantastic flamenco creations, showing off the summer tan that they have been working on. The funfair is in town, street traders selling all sorts of rubbish, from realistic looking guns to mini explosive devices, and pop-up bars appear in car parks and vacant shops. Vending machines selling beer, and pinchito stalls cooking marinated cubes of pork over charcoal burners, all appear out of nowhere. Free sombreros are handed out, advertising a particular builder or a bar. A temporary bull ring is erected, although bull fighting has now stopped taking place in Orgiva. However, a kind of ‘it’s a knockout’ competition takes place with teams of youngsters navigating an obstacle course with the close attention of some frisky yearlings (young bulls) with horns. Horse shows with dancing Lipizzaners, art exhibitions, crazy car races, some very good rock bands, giant paella, traditional fried eggs with garlic with a competition on who can eat the most eggs (24 is the record), followed by a good dose of laxative al can be enjoyed during the fair.
La Cantina del Dragon Traditional Alpujarran cuisine in the heart of Soportújar Calle Positillo, 18410 Soportújar, Granada Tel / Reservations: 618 93 93 36
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DRIVING OVER LEMONS COUNTRY Jo Chipchase takes you on a tour through the key towns and villages of La Alpujarra
LANJARON CONSIDERED the gateway to the region, Lanjaron is a spa town famed for its eponymous mineral water which is bottled and sold throughout Spain and France. As well as the spa itself (the Balneario), the town has a honey museum, a ruined castle, two cannons, and a busy calendar of events - the most famous being the San Juan Fiesta of Ham and Water. Starting this year on June 22, and running for five days, the fiesta attracts fun-loving people from the town and further afield - with the main attraction being the water fight on the night of 24 June. The annual Cañon Trail, meanwhile, is one of several events attracting serious mountain racers, and other events attract professional mountain bikers. Lanjaron is the starting point for signposted walking and cycle trails of varying lengths and difficulties. When you’ve developed a raging thirst, you can visit one of 70 bars.
THE villages of la Alpujarra date back to Moorish times and the terraces and irrigation systems were carved out by the Berbers and other early settlers. While local resident, Chris Stewart, put the Alpujarra on the tourist map when he wrote Driving Over Lemons, knowing where to start in this large area - and what to see - can be confusing. The Olive Press has produced a handy guide for your day trip or extended tour.
ORGIVA
SOPORTUJAR
A MELTING pot of different cultures, this thriving market town is known for its alternative scene and has a lively nightlife with art events, exhibitions, bands, and DJ nights, as well as the area’s best supermarkets and fashion stores. You’ll find plenty of shops, bars and restaurants, two campsites, and a choice of swimming pools - all open throughout the summer.
DON’T MISS: The Thursday market which runs until 1pm near the main plaza.
WHERE TO EAT: Baraka for fresh salads, kebabs, and hummus; Pizza & Love for the best pizza in town.
SOPORTUJAR has carved a name for itself by being witchy and weird. Amongst its visitor attractions, the town features a house with chicken legs, a serpent, a metal spider and a dragon fountain. The themepark vibe, while popular with families, might not appeal to every discerning adult. Luckily, the town has other charms, including Spain’s narrowest street and a swimming pool with a decent chiringuito bar. Avoid busy weekends and public holidays, when parking and ordering food in bars becomes challenging.
DON’T MISS: The dragon fountain by Jose Vera. The water spout is located in an interesting position.
DON’T MISS: The San Juan fiesta – but book accommodation in good time.
WHERE TO EAT: Cantina del Dragon for home-cooked meals.
WHERE TO EAT: Hotel Espana, and Bar Los Faroles for the generous weekday menu del dia.
Fundacion Montemedio, Cadiz
11 June 2022
THESE three white villages in the Poquiera valley are sufficiently beautiful to have received the prestigious Bonitas de Espana award. The ancient water channel running down the centre of Pampaneira’s main street is one of the town’s iconic sights. The villages are so close that you can drive between them in minutes, or follow the signposted trails and walk around. From Capileira, you can take a winding, mountain path to a forestry recreation area, ‘Hoya del Portillo’ - a fine place for a picnic. Poquiera is the ideal place to buy artisan crafts, including the traditional Alpujarran rugs, at a good price.
PAMPANEIRA – BUBION – CAPILEIRA
TREVELEZ
DON’T MISS: Abuela ili for artisan chocolate. WHERE TO EAT: El Asador in Capileira for a special feast, and Restaurante Guillermo just before Pampaneira.
PITRES
THIS village is the capital of La Taha and has good amenities for visitors. If you need to cool down, try the unusual-shaped swimming pool at the attractive campsite – this is an ideal place to chill out in summer after your lunch. Equally useful, if you’re driving around on a tour; there’s a decent supermarket in the main plaza. The nearby village of Atalbeitar has an ‘off the beaten track’ vibe, as well as many roaming cats.
PERCHED at a lofty 1,486m, this is one of the highest villages in Spain. In winter, Trevelez frequently has a dusting of snow and the Mulhacen peak, rising high above it, can stay white until June. However, the Virgin of the Snow festival,where people from Trevelez and surrounding towns make an annual pilgrimage up the mountain on horseback, has been held on August 5 - in the snow-free summer, for 100 years. Trevelez isn’t the best place for the weak-kneed, as there’s a 200m climb between the highest and lowest barrios.However, you don’t have to walk far from your car to access the good bars and restaurants, or to see the views. If you plan to stay near the town, the Nueva Hotel Alcabaza de Busquistar, a couple of kilometers away, offers decent rooms with balconies overlooking the Rio Trevelez. DON’T MISS: Trevelez jamon serrano is arguably the best you can get. WHERE TO EAT: Meson la Fragua.
DON’T MISS: The views WHERE TO EAT: Bar Restaurante La Carretera for its menu del dia.
A PARADISE IN LA TAHA
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La Oveja Verde sits in the heart of La Alpujarra Alta
T sits at the gates of Spain’s famous Sierra Nevada national park. A complex of 12 well-appointed apartments, La Oveja Verde is surrounded by its own private garden and a biologically-purified swimming pool. Open since 2007, it has become a tourist highlight, achieving standards of quality and tranquillity unprecedented for the region. Inhabiting two adjoining buildings, Oveja Verde sits at the edge of the charming town of Pitres, with no other buildings nearby. While just a short stroll to the centre with all its amenities, it is the perfect location to explore the important La Taha region, known for its well preserved architecture and overbearing peace. Lying on the southern slope of the Sierra Nevada, numerous paths of mediaeval origin make this an ideal zone for hiking. No less than three rivers - the Trevélez, Guadalfeo and Poqueira - run through its land, which falls under the jurisdiction of the national park. The La Taja region includes Mecina, Ferreirola, Fondales, Capilerilla, Atalbéitar and Mecinilla, all quiet villages with individual charm, while Pitres is its administrative centre. Sitting at 1,250 metres, it is a jewel in its own right, being declared a Site of Cultural Interest for its exceptional architecture and landscape. Despite being small with less than 500 inhabitants, Pitres has excellent services, including a well-stocked supermarket, a pharmacy, 24-hour emergency health centre, banks, school and institute, as well as several bars and restaurants. The comprehensive facilities make Pitres one of the most attractive municipalities for long stays or permanent residence. Currently for sale, La Oveja Verde offers the opportunity to continue with the established hotel business, or to form a small urbanisation, in which the apartments could be sold to individual buyers. The building offers generous, ground-level storage, as well as five parking spaces and chargers for electric vehicles. It is surrounded by more than 2,000 metres of garden, with abundant irrigation water distributed through pipes and sprinklers. It also features a beautiful swimming pool. Get in touch with them by phone, email or via their website www.laovejaverde.es Tel. (+34) 958064109 info@laovejaverde.es
LA OVEJA VERDE A little paradise in La Alpujarra de Granada In the heart of Alpujarra, tourist apartments and restaurants
Long-term rentals and sale of apartments in Pitres LA OVEJA VERDE TEL: +34 958 064 109 WWW.THEGREENSHEEP.ES
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DISCOVERING ORGIVA
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THRIVING market town nestled in the Guadalfeo valley between the Sierra Nevada and Sierra de Lujar mountain ranges, Orgiva is a cultural melting pot combining Spanish lifestyle and traditions with alternative communities, such as those found in Beneficio, Cigarrones and El Morreon. It’s also home to famous author Chris Stewart, and the Olive Press was launched there in 2006. The Olive Press caught up with affable mayor, Raul Orellana, in Orgiva’s town hall, which is steeped in history. It was built during the 16th to 18th century, on the site of an ancient Moorish tower which successfully sheltered the Moors during their rebellion. The impressive building is now the seat of the town council and, these days, rebels are of a different kind! Raul explains: “Órgiva has countless corners to discover and a fantastic environmental richness. We have some typical neighbourhoods, where you can enjoy a pleasant walk and, of course, the Palace of the Counts of Sástago, which is now converted into
- Providing easy access to Granada, the coast, and the rest of the Alpujarra, Orgiva is a large municipality that encompasses the nearby villages of Las Barreras, Los Tablones (near where the infamous Dragon Festival took place), Alcazar, Fregenite, Bayacas and Olias. It has a population of 6,000 people, who are known colloquially as “hueveros”. - Hosting people from all walks of life, Orgiva is a popular destination from spring to autumn. The town has two campsites, each with their own swimming pools, as well as several hotels and hostals, and countless bars and restaurants serving a vast range of food. It also has a municipal swimming pool, a sports pavilion, and a youth centre, as well as supermarkets, including the new Consum with its own carpark. - A typical day in Orgiva can involve everything from taking in an artisan market, new-age workshop, yoga class,
Olive Press meets Mayor of Orgiva Raul Orellana, an ex-primary school teacher and PP politician, who became mayor of Orgiva in 2019, taking the helm of ‘the world’s best’ town, set in the Alpujarra of Granada our town hall. We also have what is possibly one of the world’s most important Cervantes classrooms.” Raul is speaking of the public library, ‘Hurtado de Mendoza’ which has a vast collection of Cervantes texts in its Cervantina Hall, covering 50 languages. Miguel Cervantes created Don Quixote, and a statue in Calle Doctor Fleming commemorates the famous author. As well as attracting those who want to read Cervantes, or re-
strolling around ancient olive trees, sipping a cold beer on a bar terrace, or chilling in the many recreation spots, such as the natural dip pool of the Rio Guadalfeo, located under the Seven Eye Bridge (to the south of the town). - Popular events include the Thursday market in the town centre and the ‘recycling market’, which has recently resumed in the Rio Chico. The town also hosts music nights in the Plaza of Cultures and has a summer programme for people of all ages. - Traditional drinks include ‘vino costa’, made from locally-grown grapes and ‘sol y sombra (brandy with anis).
For those visiting Orgiva, the tourist office (in the Plaza of the Alpujarra) provides information and guide materials. Also see: www.ayuntamientodeorgiva.es
DID YOU KNOW?
lax in hospitality venues, Orgiva caters for active pursuits, such as walking, mountain biking and horse riding. Says Raul: “There are many hiking trails in Órgiva, but we can highlight the Path of the Centenary Olive Trees, Circular of Bayacas, ‘Camino de los Rojos’, ‘Ruta de los Mineros’, Route BTT Valle del Guadalfeo, Circular Órgiva-La Chuca-Río Guadalfeo-Órgiva or the ‘Paseo de the Vegueta’.” Whatever your background or country of origin, you’re likely to encounter kindred spirits in Orgiva. Raul says: “Órgiva is an enclave with unparalleled cultural diversity. The multicultural aspect is fundamental and has become one of our most important hallmarks.” However, as Raul points out, the element of diversity brings some challenges. For example, he has previously voiced concerns about Orgiva’s alternative settlements, such as Beneficio, where some structures don’t have permission to exist, or people have stationed their live-in vehicles in the natural park. He says: “We are clear about the cultural richness in the population, but there must be some order. For example, there must be relevant authorisation and minimum conditions of habitability and respect.” Clearly, Orgiva is a place where free spirits combine with the more traditional elements of society, requiring tolerance on both sides! With such a melting pot at play, creative souls have been attracted to Orgiva in their droves – including musicians, authors, artists, and ‘digital nomads’ who work remotely, using the internet. Says Raul: “Orgiva is steeped in artistic activity. There’s a lot of local talent and much that has chosen to stay here.” An outlet for creativity, Orgiva’s fiestas have a multicultural element, with bands and performers of all nationalities, an annual pantomime organised by Brits, and even the occasional cake-baking contest. The main fiesta takes place during the last week of September or the first week of Orgiva, while the ‘feria’ of ‘Christo de la Expiracion’ (Jesus) is celebrated 10 days before easter, with a mass firework event in the centre of town making some serious bangs! Raul says: “We have festivals throughout Orgiva and its neighbouring towns, with years of tradition. For young people, there are live music activities, contests, sports, and summer camps.” Sporting events are also increasing, with a night race and kayaking down the Guadalfeo river planned for later this year. Meanwhile, the town has increased its municipal parking to cater for the influx of visitors. In view of its relaxed atmosphere and stunning surrounds, many newcomers have decided to make Orgiva their permanent home. Raul advises: “I invite people to come and discover for themselves this very special town. Enjoy the best place in the world to live but do it in an orderly manner and seek integration.” He reflects: “People of 65 different nationalities have chosen Órgiva. What better recommendation could you have?”