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Serrania de Ronda
The
November 2023
City of Splendour
SOUL MATES: Hemingway and Ordonez became close friends
Love letter
Why you must visit Ronda
best places described it as one of the editor Press A century ago Hemingway Two decades ago Olive in the world for romance.so much, he moved there Jon Clarke loved Ronda
gorge below, it is most abyss of the Tajo of wrought iron railings T is easily one of Spain’s the mo- only a series memorable sensations; as you that ward off the panic. geographical feament the adrenaline hits at the top A breathtaking the location of a look down from a ledge Nuevo ture, this was in Ernest Hemingof Ronda’s famous Puente haunting chapter novel, For Whom the bridge. drop into the way’s seminal A staggering 400 foot
See page 11
GOYA-STYLE: Ordonez’ grandson Fran Rivera today
of soldiers Bell Tolls, when a line up to their are hurled into the ravineto actual deaths - an event related events during the Civil War. know… And Hem, of course, should
OLIVE PRESS Continues on next page
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FREE Vol. 17 Issue 433 www.theolivepress.es November 29th - December 12th 2023
EXCLUSIVE How did this seasoned Costa conman stay out of the news for so long? Find out on p2
Terror probe hell ‘Full on and stressful’ ordeal for British family after daughter is dragged into terror probe A BRITISH expat family has been torn apart after their ‘vibrant’ and ‘model-esque’ daughter was accused of helping to carry out a terrorist attack in Spain. On the surface, Sasha Brooks is a typical young woman enjoying life in the sun, regularly posting selfies on nights out in Marbella and Granada with her friends on Instagram. With holidays in Ibiza, Mallorca and Australia, she wears stylish clothes and is the ‘life and soul of the party’ on frequent nights out. But her world came crashing down when she was arrested alongside her Spanish boyfriend, Naraya Gomez, at a home they share in the quaint town of Lanjaron, Granada, just an hour in-
where her daughter and boyfriend Naraya had been working. “It’s been pretty full land from the Costa del Sol. They were sequestered to Madrid on and it’s now up to before facing a judge, where they the judge to decide were charged with aiding the assas- whether to charge sination attempt of far-right politi- them or not.” While her mothcian Alejo Vidal-Quadras. The 78-year-old was shot in the er later insisted face by a hitman on a motorbike she had not been outside his home in the posh neigh- charged, Sasha had bourhood of Salamanca in Madrid her passport taken - which boasts football players, Pe- off her after being nelope Cruz and Javier Bardem as released on bail. She must appear beresidents. Last night Spain issued an interna- fore the court every tional arrest warrant for the sus- 15 days and is forpected shooter, named as 37-year- bidden from leaving Spain as the investiold Tunisian Mehrez Ayari. Following Sasha and Naraya’s ar- gation continues. Spanish rests, Lanjaron, a tiny town of just Various 3,000 people, was turned into a newspapers reported that both Sasha and media circus. Before Sasha was dragged before a Naraya were still be- WORRIED: Mum judge, her mother, Angie Brooks, ing investigated in Angie while (above) a financial advisor, told the Olive connection to the at- Naraya’s dad Sirio Press: “Spanish reporters have tempted murder. been hounding us, banging on my Naraya was refused bail and sent to w a s door all night and morning. prison due to the overwhelming ev- d o n e , the al“They have reported so many lies idence against him. about my daughter.” He is said to have recently convert- l e g e d After her court appearance her ed to Islam, specifically following k i l l e r , mother said Sasha was ‘exhausted’. the Shiite sect favoured by the aya- w h o is also She added she had been through tollahs of Iran. an ‘ordeal’, branding the episode Vidal-Quadras is convinced the w a n t ‘stressful’ and ‘full on’. Middle Eastern nation is the mas- ed for a “I’ve had to come up to Madrid to termind behind the hit, after its m u r d e r ‘EXHAUSTED’: Sasha Brooks was dragged to Madrid help her as much as possible,” said ruling elite listed him as a ‘terror- in Paris, following her arrest in Granada LOVELY COUPLE: Naraya and Brooks, who runs a an anti-fraud ist’ last October due to his years of dumped advice company, Pension Life, harsh criticisms against the coun- his motorbike and set it on fire, be- “He is a good boy, a vegetarian, Sasha are being investigated fore being picked up by Gomez in spiritual and a pacifist.” try. He said he last spoke to Naraya a Naraya, 26, his car to make his getaway. is accused of According to police, Naraya’s blue few months ago and that he was hiring the con- hire car was seen on CCTV in Ma- excited to introduce his girlfriend tract killer be- drid’s Barrio Salamanca in the weeks Sasha to him. fore travelling running up to the attack, tracking He added: “He was not related to politics, he worked for Sasha’s to a hotel in Vidal-Quadras’s movements. Madrid with The same car was found illegally mother’s business. him on the eve parked in Lanjaron this week, lead- “He never converted to Islam, that is a lie, he is not a Muslim. He has ing to the couple’s arrest. of the attack. According to Naraya’s father Sirio Gomez, a judeo-Christian beliefs and an afpolice, Gomez yoga master who lives in a new finity with Israel!” tional Inter na followed the age commune just outside Lan- Sirio lives in the so-called commu& K U Compare funerals All ms te F r e n c h m a n jaron, insisted the charges were nity of Benificio, just a 20-minute s y s V T drive from Lanjaron. in his car on completely false. Plans cover the nd u o S the day of the He told the Olive Press: “My son It’s known by locals as an ‘alterCCTV whole of Spain n is completely innocent, he is not native community’, where people shooting. & Visio from across Europe come and go. Interest free payment plans After the deed a terrorist. net r te In from €2,250 or as little The theory put forward by & 4G c ti p O as €29.16 per month police has left expats and Fiber locals in Lanjaron in shock. Plans range from One local Brit told the Olive simple unattended 952 763 840 direct cremation to a Press: “They were a lovely more traditional send off couple, no one can believe it or understand it. 635 400 099 See page 23 comparefuneral.org “There is no motivation for +34 951 120 752 them to do something like info@theskydoctor.com this, Sasha comes from a Tomorrows Funeral good family.” www.theskydoctor.com at Today’s Price The investigation continues. EXCLUSIVE By Laurence Dollimore
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November 29th - December 12th 2023
Back behind bars
NEWS IN BRIEF Deadly crush
HE has mostly gone under the radar as far as expats and regular visitors to the Costa del Sol are concerned. But one of the coast’s most seasoned fraudsters is back behind bars after years of scamming that, it is understood, left dozens of people robbed of millions. The Olive Press can reveal that Brit Christopher O’Hare was finally sent back to prison after being double-crossed by a pal in September. He was being sought by police for failing to serve his four-year sentence over a multi-million euro property fraud in the Marbella area against the Dubai-based mutual fund Lighthouse. According to his ex-girlfriend, Sarah, cops raided his luxury rented Estepona beachfront bolthole and sent him straight back to prison.
A construction worker, 27, has been crushed to death by a collapsing wall in Velez-Malaga. Police have launched an investigation.
Sad return THE body of an Italian woman, 22, who was murdered by her ex partner and hidden in an attic in Torremolinos for almost a decade has finally been returned home for burial.
Dog days THERE are now more registered dogs than children in Andalucia, according to the latest figures, as millennials opt for furry friends amid the soaring costs of raising kids.
Rolex robbed A PAIR of British tourists have been robbed of a luxury watch worth €60,000 while walking down a street in San Pedro Alcántara in Marbella.
MASTERMIND: O´Hare with Brouwer and friend
Shady British conman thought to have ripped off ‘dozens’ of unsuspecting victims in Spain EXCLUSIVE By Walter Finch
The 47-year-old Manchester native has had a long and chequered career running property and renewable energy scams, according to Marbella lawyer Israel Romero. “He is incredibly prolific,” said Romero, who prosecuted him over the €4 million theft from the Lighthouse Mutual Fund in 2018. “He was in jail in Sweden around 2012 over a solar panel scam and has been scamming in Poland and the UK. Then he came to Spain.” One expat victim, Hayley Saker, 41, was conned out of €50,000 after her business partner met O’Hare in a sports bar in Marbella in 2020. O’Hare convinced them that he had access to funds for a ‘development project’ and through ‘skillful manipulation’ convinced them to put up more and more of their own cash. “He formed friendships with people that seemed so genuine that it was actually quite scary,” Saker, herself a developer, told the Olive Press. “He was extremely manipulative and always had some fantastic believable reasons for all
% 50
the suspicious things he did,” she added. The project however, came crashing down and all the funds went up in smoke w h e n O’Hare was hauled back to jail in 2021 after absconding prison over the Lighthouse case. “The police actually knocked on the door at 7am, barged through and arrested him,” said Hayley, who is based in Sotogrande. O’Hare then absconded a second time and has now been put in a higher security prison, according to lawyer Romero. Another victim, Jaron Brouwer, 39, fell for a similar scam for €30,000 around the same time. UK-based Brouwer was approached by O’Hare on Instagram looking for development projects. “He reached out asking if I needed funding and said he had plenty of finance in place,” he told the Olive Press.
SCARY: Hayley Saker (left) said O´Hare seemed to form genuine friendships “There were many of us involved in this one particular project in Cambridge and Chris was somehow playing all of us at the same time,” he added. “He was like some sort of criminal mastermind.” Brouwer added: “He seems to take between €10,000 and €15,000 off people, and that's what he lives off, splurging it in Puerto Banus.” Despite his career as a professional conman, O’Hare’s only known conviction in Spain was for the Lighthouse fund - much to the surprise of his numerous victims. Have you been a victim of Chris O’Hare? Get in touch at newsdesk@olivepress.es Opinion Page 6
Fugitive nabbed
A BELGIAN fugitive wanted in his homeland for a brutal attack has been tracked down and arrested on the Costa del Sol. The 21-year-old had a European Arrest Warrant out for him on suspicion of being one of two men who stabbed a man in the stomach in Denderleeuw, Belgium in August. The victim was reportedly approached by two men, with one landing two punches before the other stabbed him with a knife. Both assailants then fled the scene of the crime in a vehicle. After intensive investigative work, the suspect was identified and arrested in Marbella.
Terror arrests TWO Brazilian brothers have been hauled out of their homes by armed Guardia Civil in conjunction with the American FBI over links to the terror group ISIS. Officers kicked down the doors of an apartment in Estepona after an international investigation determined that a radicalisation process was underway. The brothers were reportedly using encrypted instant messaging platforms to push their support for ISIS, also known as Daesh in Arabic. Their activities included terrorist planning in various locations, distributing manuals for making explosives and poisons, cybersecurity, hacking, and documents calling for suicide missions.
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November 29th - December 12th 2023
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VIRTUALLY PERFECT
MEET Aitana, the latest Spanish supermodel, whose looks are turning heads. But the ‘celebrities’ who are said to be sending her private messages looking for a date will be sorely disappointed - she does not actually exist. Aitana is Spain’s first Artificial Intelligence created model and she is raking in up to €10,000 a month for her creators AI agency The Clueless from a series of ad cam-
paigns. And her Instagram site now has 125,000 followers, with many of them having no idea she is nothing more than a series of electrons. Ruben Cruz, who created Aitana, explained: “One day, a well-known Latin American actor texted to ask her out. This actor has about 5 million followers and some of our team watched his TV series when they were kids. He had no idea Aitana didn’t exist.” She has now been picked to be the face of sports supplement company Big.
STAR STUDDED
RHODES RAGE
PULP, Lana Del Rey and SZA are just some of the star acts heading to Barcelona next year for Primavera Sound. Other names lined up for the show include Vampire Weekend, Mitski, FKA Twigs, Disclosure, Justice, Phoenix, and PJ Harvey. The festival will take place from May 30 - June 1, 2024 at the Parc del Forum in Barcelona. The experiment of running a ‘mirror’ festival in Madrid in the days after this year’s Barcelona event has not been repeated.
Outraged expat concert pianist James Rhodes offers to pay rent of 78-yearold woman for two years to save her from eviction ‘over an €88 debt’ BRITISH concert pianist James Rhodes has offered to pay an elderly woman’s rent for two years after an €88 debt left her at risk of homelessness. The 78-year-old woman, Blanca, has lived in her Barcelona flat for over 50 years. Now, she is facing homeless-
AT HOME: Blanca was taken to court over €88 debt
month - an offer rejected by Blanca. British musician Rhodes, who lives in Madrid, has By Yzabelle Bostyn contacted the landlord’s lawyers ofness as her landlord is threatening to kick her out over an fering to pay the woman’s unpaid bill for repairs, which rent ‘at marshe was unaware of. ket rate’ for But activists believe that the real reason is that he wanted the next two years to halt to turn the property into a the eviction. lucrative holiday rental rathHis offer was er than collect the protected rejected by €280 a month she has been the landlord’s OFFER: Concert pianist James paying. legal team, Rhodes wants to halt eviction A court ordered the tenant’s who claim the eviction but it has been put on hold after a public outissue has been ongoing for The pianist added that he cry. The parties have just 15 six years. hopes ‘public pressure’ will days to negotiate a new rentRhodes said: “It seems in- help to resolve the case. al contract and the landlord credible to me that some- Much of this pressure comes has reportedly asked the thing like this could happen from a local housing associaelderly tenant for €1,200 a in civilised society.” tion, Resistim al Gotic (Gothic Quarter Resistance). Speaking about the delayed eviction, they said: “It’s a vicSPANISH tennis star Rafa tory for the people.” Nadal has vowed to return to Spokesperson for Resistim top-level tennis once he has al Gotic, Daniel Pardo, has overcome a serious injury. called the case ‘especially unThe 37-year-old has been out of just’ as the woman was rentaction since January after he ing under an old contract. retired from the second round He claims the owner only of the Australian Open. wants to evict the 78-yearHe was struck down with a old in order to earn more muscle injury money. The 22-time Grand Slam He told 20 Minutos: “He did champion needed surgery that some work on the apartment, has kept him off the courts lonwhich was poorly done, and ger than anticipated. he decided to bill Blanca In a recent post on Instagram, €88, but she didn’t know." Nadal confirmed that he will Instead of asking his tenant return following a period of refor the cash, the landlord habilitation and training at his went directly to the court to academy in Manacor. ask for her eviction. It will be his swansong as he has Currently, the case is being previously stated that 2024 will negotiated by local council be his final season on tour. mediators.
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Shakira pays up POP STAR Shakira has cut a deal with prosecutors at the start of her tax fraud trial in Barcelona. The singer, 46, told the presiding judge that she accepted an agreement reached between her lawyers and state prosecutors after previously twice turning down such an arrangement. It involves her paying a €7 million fine and a three-yearprison term but the Colombian star is not going to jail as she will pay an extra fine of €432,000. The sentence handed down was 'final' and it means that the trial on tax fraud charges will not go ahead. She faced six counts of failing to pay the Spanish government €14.5 million in taxes between 2012 and 2014 when she said she lived mainly abroad.
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Farewell El Tel
FORMER England and Barcelona coach Terry Venables has died after a long illness at the age of 80. Best known and loved in England for leading a swashbuckling England side to almost-glory at Euro 96, Venables actually forged his reputation in the fires of Barcelona for three seasons in the eighties. He led the team to a La Liga title in his first season in 1984, ending Barcelona's 11-year trophy drought and reached the European Cup final the following year. After he left football management he returned to Spain to run the luxury ‘La Escondida’ hotel in Penaguila, Alicante, in 2014 before retiring in 2019.
November 29th - December 12th 2023
Can pay, must pay! Protestor fury as expat water bill victims hit international media and mayor orders them to pay ‘because they can’ THE mayor of a beleaguered town hall at war with his expat residents over extortionate water bills is refusing to back down. Jose Jimenez - affectionately known as ‘Juani’ - in La Viñuela, near Nerja, is actually insisting dozens of expats slapped with bills totalling hundreds of thousands of euros must pay up ‘because they can afford it’. The victims, mostly British residents with a sprinkling of other North Europeans, organised a protest on Monday outside the town hall, which was also attended by a few
By Walter Finch
Spanish residents. “We all turned up with our placards and our letter for the town hall at midday - and there was no one there!” unofficial spokesperson Paul Rouse told the Olive Press. “Just a couple of secretaries. Juani and the rest of the town hall bottled out of meeting with us - as they have done since the start.” This week the story went viral in Spain - even as the town hall has sent out more menacing letters threatening to
BOTTOMS UP: The Olive Press chooses...
cut residents’ water. After the Olive Press put the story on our front page and website it was picked up by GB News and the Daily Mail in the UK, before making its way back to the Spanish media. A host of major news outlets picked up the story, including national newspapers El Mundo, as well as television channels Cuatro, LaSexta 952 147 834 and Telecinco. But despite the mounting pressure and threat of legal claims over the bills, Jimenez has only doubled down, blaming the unfeasible water consumption on single-family homes with gardens and pools. He added the town hall’s newly installed metres were ‘accurate’ - including producing a bill for expat Mirjana Stefanovic of an eye watering €43,000. “The consumption reflects the water actually used, which, unfortunately, has been wasted and must now be paid for,”
MALAGA’s famous Christmas lights were switched on this weekend, sparking an unlikely social media storm. Calle Larios was packed for the big event and videos of the light show have gone viral, but not for the right reasons. The videos show the street full of thousands of spectators, all with their mobile phones in the air to film the big switch on. Postureoespanol, a popular Spanish meme page, posted the video on Instagram gaining more than 40,000 likes and thousands of comments, One user wrote: “I've counted 934 phones, am I right or did I count them wrong?” Another sarcastically added: “No cameras. Just people enjoying the moment.” Meanwhile, others pointed out: “They’re all filming but they’ll never watch that video again.”
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Plea to town hall as expats left ‘panicking’ with giant water bills after being hit totalling
hundreds of thousa A BRITISH expat has nds revealed her shock after being hammered with that the town hall By Walter Finch €74,000 of water bills. lawyer suggested Gillian Hodge told the Olive Press litres over someone had been she completely ‘panicked’ the combined 180-day pe- stealing his water. now suffering from extreme and is riod - enough to fill an Olympic-siz stress. e “I laughed and swimming pool - or The retired pharmacist, 601 litres per said, who lives hour. ‘really? Is this between Spain and a joke?’ But he conhusband Tom, receivedScoland with “They told my property manager we firmed that tering bills from La two eye-wa- had a leak in July, but it Viñuela town immediately was fixed apparently I had hall. used . This leak had to be massive and would have more water than “I couldn’t believe it at we saw I owed €73,640,” first when I even using the home at the were not the entire village time. Gillian, 66, “On top combined.” told the Olive Press. of that we are rural land which is boneoverlooking Lee, who owns “I just felt raw panic. I’ve whelmed with stress sincebeen over- that much water leaking dry. With Marbella’s LT Conout, you I saw the would have bill last month.” thought our land would struction, which employs 30 people, causing the meters to be flourishing and The total comprises spin wildly green, but it hired a technical expert to inspect and inflate two big de- isn’t.” mands, one for the third his property. the usage - literally payquarter of Not permitted ing for air. 2022 for €28,420 and to just pay Councillor Amber Crookshank the second quarter of the other for bill and obviously unablepart of the to pay it No leak the Olive Press an investigatio told to a whopping €45,220.2023 coming all, Gillian is baffled. n has He came back been launched and the “I’m Unbelievably, the two meters have interim quar- water.not refusing to pay for the ly there was and told him definite- now been ters came to just €15.48 ‘no leak’ nor any water sent for testing to make We’re just refusing and €14.18 €70,000. to pay theft. sure they are calibrated respectively. EXORBITANT: Six-bed property We don’t have the money properly. The ‘used And Olive Press understand and even the British expat admitted The town hall, which more water than whole s there town administers wrong.” if we did, it’s still entirely are at least village’ hall didn’t ‘understand the the water, claims her three-bedro three more the but added there om Meanwhile her life-changing, five-figurepeople with problem.’ property has used 2.6 were ‘no guaranBritish neighbour, A bills. million cubic Lee tees’ the “I’m frustrated because further 20 Talbot, 60, has been something “We are inresidents will be happy. forced to British expatspeople - the majority needs to be the middle of an extreme done to figure - have been landed call in lawyers with bills in going on and why people out what’s drought and some have been the thousands. are getting suming huge conafter being And, in addition, over these impossible amounts of water,” he bills.” 100 residents sent a bill for are also reeling from bills greatly in- Her colleague, Moises Cerrado, later explained. “The new rates are de€43,000. signed to penalise flated on the previous admitted that water theft quarter. was ‘a big And he stressed this wastage.” The proper- A trio of Spanish the problem is not residents are also problem’ in the area. ty developer caught up in only affecting British “Many of the residents the fiasco. residents, do not live in with from Kent One resident, Paul Rouse, claimed their properties and they don’t know gians’some Spanish and ‘also Belhas appealed his bank what’s happening while getting big bills. “The manager told him of water they the are meters do not understand a away,” he told ‘crazy’ woman who the Olive Press. nationbill levied on ago receivinghad passed away years He expected ality and we are trying a bill for €1,500. the results to help all his six-bed- Suspicion vestigation back within of the in- our residents.” has four weeks, room home, naturally fallen Opinion Page 6 overlookin g on the water meViñuela reser- ters. STUMP UP: Lee Talbot Some €117,000 combined (left) and Gillian and John Hodge owe voir. He told the believe residents Olive Press tering air is enthe pipes,
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J i m THE e n MON e z STER NEXT DOOR slammed. He added: “If they have used the water, they must pay for it, because - what’s more they can."Tel: 952 147 834 The comment has gone down badly with the over 20-odd residents hit hardest with the bills. “I don't think that the people in the town hall, especially the mayor, even see us as ordinary human beings,” wrote Stefanovic on Facebook. “They certainly don't consider us as their residents. In their eyes, we are only as good as the money we pay. “It seems that our dignity and our difficulties have no value to them. We are being treated not as citizens who deserve respect and consideration, but as mere sources of income.” AN evil Mexican cartel life among expats on theboss lived a low-key ‘no frills’ Costa del Sol years before ing arrested, it has emerged. beThe paranoid chief (pictured left) was the suspected head of the infamous Los Zetas gang (above) tions in Europe for seven operaYet, incredibly, he lived years. in a normal back street an anything but luxurious life of Fuengirola, police have vealed. re-
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Having finally arrested him at another home in Madrid, it emerged he lived in leafy Calle Nuñez Balboa for some years, while renting small chalet in Mijas,a where he took many Continues on Page
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21/6/19 13:30
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Game, set, shut yer trap TENNIS world number one Novak Djokovic told British fans to ‘shut up’ after Serbia’s Davis Cup match in Malaga. The Serbian star faced constant efforts to rile him up from the British fans, including counting each time he bounced the ball. But despite overwhelming support for the British team from the local expat community, it was Serbia that triumphed over Great Britain at Jose Maria Martin Carpena arena. Unfazed, Djokovic won the first set and responded with a cheeky kiss to the British contingent, eventually clinching the match against Brit Cameron Norrie 6-4, 6-4. “They were trying to annoy me the entire match, so yeah, we had a little bit of a chat in the end,” he said afterwards. The win secured Serbia a 2-0 triumph over Great Britain and set the stage for a semi-final clash against Italy, which they duly lost. The Italians went on to claim their first Davis Cup since 1976 by defeating Australia in the final on Sunday.
6
NEWS FEATURE
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A campaigning, community newspaper, the Olive Press represents the huge expatriate community in Spain with an estimated readership, including the websites, of more than two million people a month.
OPINION A Costa del Sol story THE only thing surprising about the epic tale of Chris O’Hare’s constant scamming is that he got away with it for so long. What we have written in our page two story is only scratching the surface. The more we dug, the more dirt we found - endlessly. Because the tale of O’Hare is as old as the Costa del So itself. A scam artist lies in wait for expats coming here with money to invest. The Olive Press has worked and campaigned tirelessly to shine a light on these professional scumbags. We have exhorted our readers to do the sort of due diligence that would weed these people out many times before - and we do it again today. Before going into business with someone you encounter on the coast, check their references, speak with their lawyers, speak to their satisfied customers. Because once you’re the victim of fraud here, the chances of getting your money back - or even justice - is vanishingly small.
Nolotil action IT is high time the Spanish government brings in some meaningful legislation in regards to Nolotil (Nolotil in the Dock, p8). The Olive Press has been sounding the alarm about the Spanish painkiller for years and after a hard fought campaign managed to bring in tough guidelines for the drug. It came after we told countless horror stories of how the medication, which is banned in the UK and many other countries, brought many British expats and other northern Europeans to the brink of death. Working alongside campaigner Cristina Del Campo, we spread the message about the drug’s potentially fatal side effects far and wide. It has been disheartening to hear in recent weeks how the guidelines we battled so hard for are seemingly being ignored, particularly in areas popular with British expats and visitors, such as Denia on the Costa Blanca. We give our full support to Cristina and her team of lawyers and hope the government listens to what they have to say.
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Sinking feeling
A
T first, Captain Sebastien Destremau believed a sudden incoming swell was just the fierce poniente wind blowing in from the Atlantic one afternoon in May - ‘as it can when you exit the Strait of Gibraltar.’ The garlanded French sailor, with multiple world championships and America’s Cups campaigns to his name, gave the order to drop the sail. But when he turned his weather-beaten face to windward once more, he saw that it was not the famed Atlantic weather bringing in the onrushing waves. Around 20 orcas - half of the total population of Iberian Orcas - were moving in towards his yacht, the 17-metre Lancelot, at tremendous speed. Destremau was all too aware of this particular pod, which has made the Cadiz coast their stomping ground and the bluefin tuna their dish of choice. Eight of the apex predators approached Destremau’s 15-tonne boat and spun it around ‘like a nutshell’ with incredibly powerful nudges to the rudder.
and cretecan experts was put out in August seeking to debunk these ‘inappropriate’ narratives. Despite the ordeal, Destremau did not feel The signatories have called out such ‘anhe had been the target of orca wrath. “It thropomorphistic theories’, which project would be so easy for these beasts to sink us ‘human motivations’ onto wild beasts. if they wanted to.” The thing they fear the most is that such talk While his ship, the Lancelot, eventually could provoke human retaliation. could limp to port, three vessels have in fact Naomi Rose, Marine mammal scientist for been sunk by the Iberian orcas this year. the Animal Welfare Institute, spearheaded And dozens more have had to be rescued by the letter and was the first signatory. maritime authorities. Characterising the interactions as ‘attacks’ These encounters, all taking place in or near - implying aggression and hostility - is misthe Strait of Gibraltar over the last three leading, she told the Olive Press. years, have baffled the scientists, marine “And this whole myth around ‘Black Gladys’, biologists and animal behaviourists of the is just that - a myth.” world. However, like all myths, it originates from a Wild theories abound to explain the unprec- grain of truth. edented behaviour, and there has been a The few orcas that participate in the interproliferation of ‘melodramatic storylines.’ actions with the boats have been given the They range from orca anger at humans en- designation ‘Gladys’ to differentiate them croaching on their yard, to tales of an orca from pod members which don’t. mother known as ‘Black Gladys’ out for re- Rose admits it is a somewhat ‘unfortunate’ venge after her baby was killed by a yacht misnomer, as it comes from the Latin for propeller. ‘sword’, its root in English being ‘gladiator.’ An open letter signed by a number of orca But while it may be a mistake to project human attitudes onto orcas in one respect, in others they display behaviour that every huwww.theolivep ress.es man will recognise. NEWS My pledge Gibraltar Strait orca att The leading theory for the orca behaviour is June 14th - Jun may be led by ack pod e 27th 2023 a ‘re ven gefemale, who that5it did in fact originate with a small group lost her calf seeking’ of juveniles, one of whom is indeed known as ‘Black Gladys’. She was observed with a head laceration in the spring of 2020 and was later spotted Swamwith p a wound behind the dorsal fin in 2021. measuHowever, res according to the experts, ‘Black Gladys’ is not the whale that started the inTrans teractions - nor is it known how she got her wounds. It is simply not known why these young ones started bumping the boats. But orcas, which are members of the dolphin family, are highly intelligent creatures known for their ‘cultural fads’. So it is theorised that once these young trendsetters started off the ‘fad’, more of them decided to join in as a form of social interaction. A previous ‘fad’ was observed in a pod of Pacific orcas off the coast in Washington in INTERACTIONS: Experts say they are not ‘attacks’, while (inset) our previous story By Walter Finch
Hell hath no fury… like ‘White Gladys’
SCRAPPING Ministry, over the Equality ‘trans law’ and turning Spain’s es to the euth making chang- A SPATE of killer whal cation rules. anasia and edu- tacks on yachts entee atring the Strait of By Walter Finc Those are amo h sparked fierc Gibraltar has ng the plan that Popular Party (PP) lead-s what is behi e debate about the er Alberto Nun nd it. origin of all this, gains more stren should he beco ez Feijoo has Researchers claim it migh me t day," Alfre gth for us every ister on July 23. prime min- be orchestrated by a do López Fern singl reven e, ge-se dez, anFeijoo, who eking female a is happy for orca sity of biologist at the Univerface-to-face deba a named Gladys - or ‘Whi Avei te with cur- Gladys’. te But Seba ro said. rent leader stien Destrema Pedro Sanchez, Some claim captain of u, would also likely she lost her The Lancelot, to calf the scrap whic prop Democratic Mem the h was attac ellers of a ship, while others ory Law. ago, dismissed ked two weeks Sanchez chall insist she the enged Feijoo six weekly deba to caught up in fishing nets got “Having witnesseclaims. tes until the underwater rope d it, it's or so easy general elect for these beas . ions, They some cont ts sink thing to that the PP dism inue us issed as un- taught her fello she has since insisted if they want to,” he prey necessary. MALAGA’S most - fellow whales. of the most intelw orcas - some hemoths after 20 of the beendangered reservoir is to turned cial creatures ligent and so- ile ship swarmed his frag- “They could crush the boat undergo emer a heartbeat if in at wheraround again to look gency works to how to target on the planet - “If they . they wanted to,” improve wate e the wind was and attack smal added Destrema were out for reven r and quality. I thought, 'Wai vessels. l I think u. ge, t, The “But that' I woul drast s they wind "The orcas are In reference to swimming hom d have been sive. They were not aggres- orca , that's fish. Those not due to ic measure is vital doin the g are the this new e.” s!'” were ongo on Instead, trans purpose, of cour law, recently and record-low ing drought in very gently, just coming With appr he levels at Vinu government, passed by the know the origin se, we don't may have suspects the orcas nose placi oxim or the mowherever they ng their approaching, ately 20 orcas ela reservoir. been engaging ‘it is easier Feijoo claimed tivation, but defen want play in he or ed The place mad train to €800,000 proje e the decision to lowe in Spain rightto change sex’ haviour based on sive be- hunt, as yaching their young to The it, and pushing hard.” ct involves real danger, trauma, as hopes that the r the sails in the installation of a floati t rudders resem pass your univ now ‘than to he emp ble the fins of stati their primary- sises, is to the killer whalha- would lose their onary boat take system and will takeng inexams or get ersity entrance interest. eight months to insta themselves. es Yet the orca your driving cence’. lis It comes after ll. “I am very conc “They startedpersisted. The PP leade to come close the reservoir record lows saw the near futur erned about and close r also r critic sit at ised Sanchez’s decis e for these r. They start beasts and I ed to capacity - or a meag just 9.7% have a look and think we have snap elections ion to call the re 16 cubic a little hecto huge responsibi a first time Span on July 23, the lity to protect a sniff and then, suddbit of The metres of water. these iards will go to alarm enly, animals," he 'BAN vote in the midd added to he G,' that was a big one," pected to ing levels are exNewsweek. le of the sumdwindle considera explained. mer. more as the summ The solo roun bly “It’s not exac d the world The orcas targeted the er yachtsman ship's ing the reservoir thathits, turnrudder, hold elections tly normal to provides much worried that is particularly impressiv displaying with the med fortnight of thein the hottest e power as their ter intoof Malaga’s drinking waemp ia hasis they year, push almo ing ed st with so many people The main bene a swamp. sailors are nowthe aggression Within against it. ficiar minu getti said. “But weon holiday,” he ies tes, the botto ng armed include Rinc to fire at them are ready for change.” if they come the rudder shattered, creatm of Nerjaon, Velez-Malaga and under attack. . potential risks ing for the boat. Across Malaga That said, he But desp province the See No Hab ‘terrifying’ the confirmed how tion, no ite the scary situa- reservoirs sit lo Ingles, at just 31.9% incident was page 6 the time. of at harmed human has ever been their total capacity. by the pod of The “At Guadalhorce reser orcas, first, I and it STALKERS: voir is at The pod has wind comingthought it was adapt was up to humans to just 31% capacity, been terroris while Conde And so I startin really fast... the otheto the mammals, not del Guadalhor ing boats In Almeria thece sits at 25%. sail a little ed to drop the “It's theirr way round. bit and then levels are at just worl d, it's 15.1% not I he conclude ours,” , while in d. 26% and Gran Cadiz they sit at ada at 32.6%.
REMAINER HOPE
Campaigners against 90 day rule to target new Foreign Secretary for action over Schengen zone restrictions
B
RITISH homeowners in Spain are bolstering their campaign to roll back Brexit’s restrictive 90-day rule following David Cameron’s (pictured) appointment as Foreign Secretary. Campaigners are ‘hopeful’ of bringing back some form of freedom of movement after the europhile was sensationally brought back into government as part of Rishi Sunak’s cabinet reshuffle this month. The 180 Days In Spain group is planning to apply pressure on the
EXCLUSIVE By Laurence Dollimore former prime minister in the hopes of securing new concessions that will allow Brits to spend more than 90 days at a time in the Schengen area. The 7,000-strong group will be bombarding Cameron’s office with emails and telephone calls, calling on him to follow in the footsteps of France, which looks set to relax visa rules for UK homeowners. The group’s leader, Andrew Hesselden, told the Olive Press: “Since Brexit, Brits in this position often come up against the 90-in-180 day problem, which means that if they’ve spent 90 days living in their own home in Spain, they find themselves unable to go to France or Germany or even Switzerland at all until their day-count resets. “For some of our members, this has reduced the amount of time they can now spend in Spain by as much as 40%. And from a tourism perspective, Brits with homes in other Schengen zone countries
or who travel extensively throughout the zone, may find themselves unable to visit Spain even for a seven-day holiday without applying for a visa. But those shortstay visas don’t seem to exist.” He added: “David Cameron seems well respected and trusted by international leaders and so this bodes well for a more constructive and positive relationship with Europe and the EU.” One Brit from the group said: “Cameron’s natural sympathies are undoubtedly on our side. It’s definitely an opportunity, and his voice would have an influence.” Another added: “I too think David Cameron could be an asset to us. People who have homes in Europe but not residents are missing out big time. “It’s against human rights to be unable to visit their properties as before.” Spain’s tourism minister Fernando Valdes, told the “i” Newspaper last year that ‘his country would like to end the rule that means non-EU travellers can only stay for 90 days within a 180 day period’. Valdes has now been replaced as Secretary of State for Tourism by Rosana Morillo. But this month, the Spanish government reported that the Secretary of State ‘held an important meeting at the Foreign Office with the Director for Consular Affairs and Crisis, Jennifer Anderson, in which they discussed issues of interest regarding the stays of British tourists in Spain’. Hesselden said: “Our members will be writing to Lord Cameron in the coming weeks to suggest he explores the possibility of using the special provisions in the Withdrawal Agreement that enable ‘errors, omissions or other deficiencies’ to be fixed. “If on 31 December 2020, British fullyear residents had been told to leave France/Spain, return to the UK and come
Experts are keen to debunk the myths and wild theories that swim among the killer whales terrorising sailboats in the Strait of Gibraltar
November 29th - December 12th 2023
7
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D ENDANGERED: There are only around 40 Iberian orcas left
1987, after they started to wear ‘salmon hats’ on their heads. The bizarre sight was first observed in a single female orca, seen swimming with a dead salmon perched on her nose. But soon, several others in her pod adopted this behaviour, and over the following weeks the trend even spread to other pods within the same community. “It had no obvious biological significance to them,” Mark Simmonds, Director of Science at the non-profit OceanCare told the Olive Press. “So we think that this is probably mainly a form of creative play behaviour and signalling to each other” “The consensus is that they're doing this to show off to each other. “In the same way, these particular orcas have discovered how to manipulate these boats, which is interesting, and in some ways, stimulating to them.” However, just like Tamagotchis, the Harlem Shake and the Ice Bucket Challenge, it was all the rage for five to six weeks and then it suddenly died out. Rose’s greatest fear, if this fad doesn’t similarly die out, is that eventually a human might get hurt or even drown. So far, no sailors have found themselves floating in the water with the world’s apex predator - which have never been known to deliberately attack a human in the wild. But experts do not believe that this is due to an innate altruistic nature of the orca, which unlike dolphins or humpback whales are not known to help other species in danger. back only once they had secured “I would a visa, there would have been never ever, public outrage. Yet, essentially, after hunthis is exactly what happened to dreds of British part-year residents who hours on also have lives and obligations the water elsewhere.” watching Hesselden added that the camand studypaign group ‘also hopes Lord ing these Cameron will explore the possiguys, swim bility of the UK signing new bilatwith them eral agreements with Spain, to mirror the ones Spain has with USA, New Zealand, Japan and 15 other non-EU countries.These seem to permit additional time in Spain over and above the 90-in180 day allowance they have for the rest of the Schengen zone. This would help all Brits, even those without homes in Spain, and wouldn’t really require the UK government to change anything at all since the UK already welcomes Spanish visitors to the UK for six months per visit’. This would appear to be along the same lines as suggestions made by Carlos Mazon and Ximo Puig when they visited Spain’s Ambassador to the UK in London, as reported by the Olive Press, back in 2021. “Restoring mutual freedom of movement between Spain and the UK would of course be nice, especially for younger people who want to work, but that seems to me, to be rather too much for anyone to hope for at the moment”, Hesselden told us. When contacted by the Olive Press, the UK’s Foreign Office refused to directly comment on the campaign.
in the wild,” Rose warned. “It’s stupid as hell - they've got big teeth. “They are smart and they sometimes decide to play with not only their food, but with other mammals. “They’ve never harmed a human but there’s not some orca law forbidding it.” What worries Rose is that boat and human interactions are losing their novelty for the wild animals, which tend to shun things they don’t know. With increased human interactions comes decreased fear - and the increased possibility that an orca might decide to ‘play’ with a human. And what measures might authorities take against the Iberian NUDGE NUDGE: Orcas target the rudder orca in return - a critically endangered species - if they view them as dangerous and threatening? In August, footage emerged of crew on a sailboat shooting at the Gladys orcas with an air rifle and even throwing firecrackers overboard. Yachties have been trialling all sorts of methods to protect their boats, from chucking sand over the side when the creatures come near, to blasting out heavy metal under water. “We think they could be vulnerable to acoustics, so people will be looking in that direction,” Simmonds theorised. “But again, if an acoustic approach is used, it's got to be something which is very carefully balanced so that it helps persuade them to go away and do something else with their time but doesn’t harm them.” If such measures fail, and eventually someone is killed, Rose fears authorities will undertake a cull of the Iberian Orca. “I'm very sympathetic to the mariners,” she said. “Who wants their yacht sunk? But God - it's just a yacht. These animals are a unique population. “Do we really want to kill a bunch of endangered animals because our yachts are sinking?” EXPERTS: Naomi Rose and Mark Simmonds signed open letters
IRECT exposure to the Olive Press’ 30,000plus registered online database is getting amazing results. Our followers get daily news emails, twice-weekly travel mailouts and a detailed health newsletter every Sunday. As well as announcing financial seminars and special surgical procedures, a number of astute restaurant groups and hotels have caught on. Musaka in San Pedro got 20 bookings from a one off deal including a free bottle of wine. Meanwhile, Malaga’s Metro group has used the Olive Press’ unique marketing tool on three separate occasions this year so far. A 50% discount for the opening fortnight of their exclusive Nomad restaurant got 96 bookings, while a 25% off brunch deal brought over 30. “We’ve been very happy with the results” explained marketing boss, Karen Wolfson. Five-star Kempinski hotel and SO/Sotogrande spa have used our database, while an exclusive room discount at DDG Retreat, near Estepona, got dozens of takers - ‘even more bookings than the Times’. Is it time your business tested our intelligent, loyal and - above all - high spending online users?
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November 29th December 12th 2023
NOLOTIL IN THE DOCK
A PATIENT advocate group has filed a lawsuit against the Spanish Ministry of Health for failing to protect people against the potentially life-threatening effects of Nolotil. The Association of Drug Affected Patients (ADAF), led by campaigner Cristina del Campo, is suing the Spanish Ministry of Health and the Spanish Agency for Medicine and Health Products (AEMPS). The case, handled by Francisco Almodovar, claims the directive issued by the Spanish government in 2018 preventing the sale of the drug to Northern Europeans without
Campaigners are taking legal action against deadly painkiller following hundreds of near-deaths EXCLUSIVE By Yzabelle Bostyn
prescription is not being followed. The ADAF also claims that authorities have not done enough to protect patients against the dangerous effects of Nolotil, which can include sepsis, amputations and organ failure. The campaign group has identified 350 suspected cas-
AIRPORT THREAT
THE UGT trade union has called a strike for 60,000 airport handling staff during key December holidays, threatening the travel plans of thousands. The stoppage is planned for all 46 airports in Spain for Tuesday December 5 and Sunday December 10. December 6 is Constitution Day, while December 8 is the Day of the Immaculate Conception. Both are national holidays, and the fact that they fall on a Wednesday and Friday will encourage many people in Spain to take much or all of the week off. UGT announced that it was calling the stoppage to protest against state airports operator Aena’s alleged failure to observe the collective agreement for the sector.
es of agranulocytosis (low white blood cell count) between 1996 and 2023 as a result of the drug. The cases include 170 Britons living in or visiting Spain. They are also investigating 40 deaths which they believe to be linked to the infamous drug. Del Campo told the Olive Press: “We’re not looking for money or damages. I want to make them stop giving Nolotil to British people. “I want them to revise and modify regulations and investigate cases properly. “They need to act because it keeps being given without a prescription. People’s lives are at stake.” The ADAF is calling on the Spanish Ministry of Health to ban giving the drug to citizens where Nolotil is banned in their home country. They also demand new analysis of the risk of agranulocytosis and a revision of the Nolotil information sheet given to medical professionals.
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LA CULTURA
Successful Grammys
SEVILLA became the first city outside the United States to host the Latin Grammy Awards earlier this month with Karol G’s 'Mañana sera bonito' crowned album of the year and best urban music album. Argentine producer Bizarrap took home the awards for song of the year and best pop song in a collaboration with Shakira which featured her taking a swipe at her former boyfriend Gerard Pique The whole night had a flamenco feel about it with Spain's Rosalia, returning to her roots to sing 'Se nos muerte el amor' by Rocío Jurado. Italian classical singer Andrea Bocelli performed the famous composition 'Granada' while 30 flamenco dancers accompanied singer Alejandro Sanz.
LOOKING FOR MORE November 29th CULTURE STORIES? December 12th 2023 Scan to visit our website
November 29th - December 12th 2023
BULLY FOR HIM
New culture chief is antibullfighting, calling it ‘unfair, sadistic and despicable’ A POLITICIAN who is an avowed anti-bullfighter has become Spain's Minister of Culture in Pedro Sanchez's new cabinet. Ernest Urtasan, 41, is one of five people from the left-wing Sumar group that have been given ministerial portfolios. His stance on bullfighting is in contrast to the official policy of the PSOE socialists who are the majority partner in the new government coalition. As an MEP, Urtasan was the promoter in 2016 of a decla-
By Alex Trelinski
ration rejecting the Constitutional Court's decision to annul the ban on bullfighting in Catalunya. The motion, supported by 37 MEPs, described bullfighting as 'unfair, sadistic and despicable'. Urtasan's position is different to that of the PSOE, which together with the PP and Vox, rejected a proposal by the left-wing Podemos party against government support
OPPOSED: Urtasan tagged bullfighting ‘sadistic’ for bullfighting. The socialist Maribel Garcia said in Congress at the time that bullfighting is more than a festival, considering it a
Ancient discovery A THIRD stone slab known as a stela has been uncovered by a team of British and Spanish researchers at the 3,000-year-old necropolis known as Las Capellanias in Cañaveral de Leon, Huelva. The site is located on a route that linked main river basins in southern Spain, suggesting that the carved stone slabs may have served as territorial markers, in addition to honouring the dead. The newly uncovered stela, found with cremated human bones, is carved with an image of a human figure with a detailed face, hands, feet, a headdress, necklace, two swords, and male genitals. It had been previously thought that a headdress and necklace on a stela would represent a female form, while weaponry would signify a male warrior. The researchers now suggest that the monuments are evidence of more fluid social roles that were not restricted by gender.
'productive sector, an example of sustainability' and a 'cultural manifestation'. Bull rancher Victorino Martin from the Todi de Lidia Foundation said: “His personal views should not interfere in the sector as a cultural asset of Spain.” “His duty now is to govern for all Spaniards and watch over all the cultural expressions of the country,” he added. Urtasan has other issues to look at including the Film Law, the Patronage Law, and the new Cultural Rights Law. His administration will also be focused on maintaining the cultural bonus and strengthening freedom of expression in the cultural sector, following a pre-investiture pact agreed between PSOE and Sumar.
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Forbidden treats A DRAWING of a naked Donald Trump and a punching bag sculpture shaped like a woman's torso are just two of over 200 works subjected to censorship that have found a home at Barcelona's brand new Museum of Forbidden Art. The collection features creations from Pablo Picasso and American photographer Robert Mapplethorpe that intend to challenge visitors to think about the limits imposed on artists.
Art
The museum, which opened its doors last month, is the brainchild of art collector Tatxo Benet, who owns all but one of the 42 works currently on display — and the 200 more in storage. Over 14,000 people have checked out the museum's offerings so far.
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17 YEARS OF ENVIRONMENTAL NEWS Scan to find out more www.theolivepress.es
GREEN
November 29th - December 12th 2023
Winters warmer SPANISH winters are getting shorter due to climate change. The winter in mainland Spain used to be defined as from December 1st to February 28. But a new study inspired by climate scientist César Rodríguez's work looking at average temperatures over recent decades shows that the Spanish winter is shrinking.
Spring and Autumn lengthen as winters get shorter Since the 1940s, winters have lost more than a month on average with central and eastern Spain affected the most, and the southern parts of the mainland and Canary Islands not far behind. A new phenomenon has been observed whereby spring is
By Walter Finch
lasting up to three weeks longer - the so called invernavera - and autumn nowadays is extended up to 10 days into inverotoño. They also found that summers are
lengthening by between four and 15 days depending on the area. It's worth noting that these trends aren't consistent or uniform; they show periods of fluctuation. But the trend is undeniable. The noticeable winter shortening became more evident from the 1980s onwards in the Peninsula, while in the Canary Islands, this trend only emerged in the mid-1990s.
Is the world warming faster than expected ?
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URING recent weeks many conversations have centred around how marvellous the weather has been in November. Is this true? Is this right? I believe this is a simple yes and no. Yes we enjoy the sun on our backs in late November but no, it can’t be good in the long run. The rate of global warming has accelerated in recent decades. It appears we have entered another phase of runaway climate change. Leading climate scientists have stated that the climate may change more quickly than expected in the future because the climate has not yet fully responded to the greenhouse gases already emitted. In other words there is ‘more in the pipeline’. Climate records have tumbled this year. Without doubt, 2023 will be the hottest year on record. This was not forecast at the beginning of the year. We have historically high sea temperatures, Antarctic sea ice at an all time low and all continents experiencing some extreme weather conditions. Most recently Brazil suffered an unbearable heatwave so bad that even Taylor Swift’s sold out concert was affected (if you don’t know who
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Taylor Swift is, ask someone younger – my eight year old daughter Francesca knows all the lyrics).
Green
Matters
By Martin Tye
AN UNUSUAL EL NIÑO The rapid onset of the natural weather system known as El Niño has contributed to current higher temperatures. During an El Niño the eastern Pacific surface water temperature gets warmer. This puts additional heat into the atmosphere, which in turn leads to a surge in global air temperatures. What is cause for concern is that the new El Niño has not yet peaked and the impact is expected to intensify in the coming months. Linked to this is what is happening in the Antarctic. In September satellite images showed the sea ice that surrounds Antarctica being significantly smaller than in previous pictures. Fewer reflective areas of ice means that the Sun’s energy is absorbed by the darker ocean surface, which accelerates warming. What worries scientists is that the Antarctic is beginning to operate like the Arctic...working like a radiator more than a fridge. MOMENT OF TRUTH COP 28 is about to start (Conference of Parties - the annual climate conference attended by around 200 countries). Will it change much? Regular readers of this column know I remain unconvinced. The oil and gas industries need to choose between contributing to the climate crisis or becoming part of the solution. I think there is more than a clue as to why they will continue to put profit first. Last year fossil fuel companies were responsible for less than 1% of global investment in renewable energy. The oil and gas companies will continue to skirt around the uncomfortable truth. Successful transition to clean energy production requires much reduced demand for oil and gas. So producing less equates to selling less. Selling less reduces turnover and profits. Mmmmmmm…I wonder how that will work out.
Martin Tye is the owner of Mariposa Energía, a green energy company specialising in solar panel installations. Email him at martin@mariposaenergia.es or call +34 638 145 664
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November 2023
SOUL MATES: Hemingway and Ordonez became close friends
Love letter
A century ago Hemingway described it as one of the best places in the world for romance. Two decades ago Olive Press editor Jon Clarke loved Ronda so much, he moved there
I
T is easily one of Spain’s most memorable sensations; the moment the adrenaline hits as you look down from a ledge at the top of Ronda’s famous Puente Nuevo bridge. A staggering 400 foot drop into the
abyss of the Tajo gorge below, it is only a series of wrought iron railings that ward off the panic. A breathtaking geographical feature, this was the location of a haunting chapter in Ernest Hemingway’s seminal novel, For Whom the
Bell Tolls, when a line up of soldiers are hurled into the ravine to their deaths - an event related to actual events during the Civil War. And Hem, of course, should know…
GOYA-STYLE: Ordonez’ grandson Fran Rivera today
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November 2023 From previous page
Alive in the City of Dreams the American literary legend having spent many months in the town, even tipping it as THE best place in the world for a spot of romance. “It is where you should go if you ever go to Spain on a honeymoon or if you ever bolt with anyone,” he penned in the 1932 tome Death in the Afternoon, adding: “The entire town and as far as you can see in any direction is a romantic background… if a honeymoon or an elopement is not a success in Ronda, it would be as well to start for Paris and commence making your own friends.” He brought various lovers up to the mountain town, just an hour inland from Marbella, including allegedly Hollywood starlet Ava Gardner. But it was something else altogether that drew him back to the town, time and time again… and that was ‘los toros’. Bullfighting became one of the main loves of his life and it was on his first trip to Ronda as a young writer exactly a century ago in 1923, that he got his first real taste of the Spanish national pastime. It came following a ‘boring’ stopover in Sevilla, where he grew tired of constantly hearing flamenco. According to a biographer he kept nagging his travelling companions, a pair of writers, to head up to the town and when he got there he immediately fell for its historic bullring, the world’s first. Known as the cradle of bullfighting (it was here that Pedro Romero famously jumped off a horse to swipe his cape at a fighting bull) Ronda inspired him to write and he went on to meet various bullfighters, including the legendary Cayetano Ordonez, who later became a model for his most famous book, The Sun Also Rises. I was equally inspired by the town when I first visited Ronda during a two-year spell working as an English teacher in Madrid in the early 1990s after university.
All about
Serrania de Ronda
The
MOVING: Legionaires carrying Jesus at Semana Santa across the Puente Nuevo
I was so blown away by its breathtaking scenery and refreshing sierra air that I later booked a two-week stay in its most famous hotel, the Reina Victoria, in an attempt to write a novel, when working as a news reporter at the Daily Mail in London in 1998. It proved to be a bridge too far however, if you’ll excuse the pun, but I truly fell in love with the place and knew I would one day come back to live there. That came to pass when my wife and I decided to move to Spain in 2003 soon after our nuptials in the spirit of adventure and to pursue my love of writing and hers of painting. We ended up buying a run-down farm, planted lots of trees and, before we knew it, we had a couple of children born in the local hospital. A few years later another baby was born, that of the Olive Press newspaper and the rest is history, as they say. What I never did was write a novel,
but it inspired me to write two true bullring on a windy, wet November crime books and, most enjoyably, day in 1994. a restaurant guide to Andalucia, Today, I can think of nowhere in the which appropriately picked out a world I would rather live. The town’s handful of decent eateries in Ronda geography never ceases to amaze, and its surrounding Serrania. its architecture is exquisite, while its It also led me to meet and star in range of excellent restaurants and one of celebrity chef Gordon Ram- bars is as good as anywhere else say’s TV programmes in nearby in Andalucia, Sevilla and Marbella Gaucin, mix it up with Jamie Oliver, included. when he set a TV series in the town, The local ingredients include amazand even interviewed celebrity chef ingly good olive oil, goats cheeses Jean Christophe Noand even some decent velli on the famous pata negra ham, while Tajo bridge. the nearby countryRonda is Planning to move side is dotted with over there at the time, Notwo dozen vineyards, actually velli described the the majority improving Andalucia’s sensation of first seeby the year. ing the views from the I never tire of a stroll third most bridge as the ‘cono through the old town, visited place moment’, an actual admiring its cobbled translation I will leave streets, church spires to your imagination. and beautifully kept The town also blew away BBC TV family homes (many of them almost presenter Nick Knowles, former mansions). I’ll always find a new anPrime Minister and now Foreign gle to take a photo and there are a Secretary David Cameron and US number of museums and galleries first lady Michelle Obama. (actually 30 in the town) and, freOther famous literary figures who quent exhibitions in the beautiful waxed lyrical about Ronda were Antigua Claustro Santo Domingo. James Joyce and German poet Is it any wonder Ronda is AndaluRainer Maria Rilke, while Bill Gates cia’s third most visited place, with came on a secret visit a couple of millions of day trippers every year. years ago and Madonna shot her But what most of them don’t do music video, Take a Bow, in Ronda is stay the night, which is really to
their loss. The place is at its most charming as the sun sets and the hordes have headed back down to the coast. It is then that the ‘city of dreams’, as poet Rilke christened it, starts to earn its romantic, fairy tale status so promoted by the likes of Hemingway and later, the actor and director Orson Welles. Under subtle street lighting, the historic quarter gains a timeless edge, while you can still visit its most alluring buildings, such as the 14th century Mondragon Palace (in part Arabic) until 7pm, or the nearby Santa Maria la Mayor church (which was once a mosque). It sits on Plaza Duquesa de Parcent, one of the most stunning squares in Spain, particularly with its classical renaissance-style town hall (below), which was once a military barracks and the still-functioning Santa Isabel Convent on the other side. For the perfect stroll, head down into the Tajo, reached from either Barrio San Francisco or from a flight
Pictures by Jon Clarke
CLASSICAL: Ronda town hall and (left) an original unusual outdoor statue
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November 2023 SPLENDOUR: Ronda’s bullring is the world’s oldest circular ring
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Look out for the various statues outside, including the local Ordoñez dynasty and Pedro Romero (born 1754) who is dubbed the ‘father of the corrida’. He killed over 5,000 bulls and passed his skills down the line to the Ordonez’ family who have, so far, provided Spain with three generations of bullfighters… the youngest Cayetano, becoming a handsome Armani model. Sipping a caña or coffee in the main Plaza del Socorro, or one of the passages off it, it’s not difficult to imagine Hemingway scribbling in the shadows of a backstreet cafe. His legacy looms large all around the town and he (like Orson Welles whose ashes are scattered at a nearby farm owned by the Ordoñez family) has a small street named after him behind the Parador hotel. He celebrated his final birthday in Ronda in 1960 and was fittingly, further immortalised with a statue beside the bullring in 2015. It was from here this Easter, at Semana Santa, that I came across one of the most moving scenes that cemented my own sense of belonging in the City of Dreams. It was well past midnight and, while my wife and a couple of friends stayed warm in a nearby wine bar, I ventured out to take a picture of the bridge at night. I thought the parades had long ended, but atop the bridge I found two lines of drummers made up of soldiers from Ronda’s crack local Spanish Foreign Legion brigade. They stood rigid and to attention, dressed in short sleeves despite the cold northerly breeze, staring straight ahead and tapping their drums quietly, rhythmically in perfect unison. It was hypnotic and insistent and, incredibly, I was one of just a dozen spectators on the bridge. After what was easily 15 minutes, out of a side street suddenly loomed a statue of Mary on a float, carried by two dozen other legionnaires. Just behind was another group carrying Jesus, (see top left) but this time on his back, lying prone. He was ferried past, legs first facing upwards to the stars above. I looked up too and, as a trumpet started to play, I felt a sense of belonging. I knew I was in Ronda for to stay.
R PA
of steps down from the Mirador de Maria Auxiliadora. This is the perfect way to understand the impressive fortifications the town once had during numerous sieges, when the town sat at the western edge of the Kingdom of Granada. The Moors had a good understanding of this and built a series of walls and arches on both sides of the old town, making it practically impregnable. As you stroll down, you’ll also start to get an understanding of what a feat of architecture the impressive New Bridge was. It took 42 years to build and for half a century, at 98 metres, it was the highest bridge in the world. Completed in 1793, its fortifications are incredible and have stood the tests of time remarkably well and still has normal traffic heading across in both directions. At the bottom you’ll get the seminal picture of the bridge and its gorge with its vertical cliff faces, from where rooks soar, often alongside vultures. From here there are various ways back up, but the best plan is to continue down and take the one-hour circular walk through the Tajo valley, crossing the Guadalevin river, and coming up the other side by the Mirador de los Pinos. This is the Carretera de los Molinos and nowhere in the world will you get a better appreciation of geography and a sense of place. The various vineyards and ancient farms some with fortifications going back well over 1,000 years - offer the perfect snapshot of little-changed rural life in southern Spain. Heading back into Ronda you’ll walk past the famous Reina Victoria hotel, built by English engineers, as they installed the railway line up to Ronda from Algeciras. As you finally drop back into the centre you’ll most certainly have to take a stroll into the wonderful Alameda park, with its spectacular views, and then the famous bullring next door. At 243 years old, it is Spain’s oldest and a stunning classical building with some fabulous original Goya etchings of toreadors at work in one room. Spain’s most famous bullfight, the ‘Goyesca’, takes place here in September with the matadors and their teams dressing up in 18th century costume paying tribute to the original Goya works.
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November 2023
All about
Serrania de Ronda
The
GOLDEN PEAKS It’s the perfect time to get behind the wheel for a voyage into the ‘Copper Forest’ of the Serrania de Ronda, writes Walter Finch
Pic Credits: Walter Finch
F GOLDEN: Now is the time of year to visit the Copper Forest
ORGET New England in the fall. The transformation of the Genal Valley into the ‘Copper Forest’ every autumn is a mesmerising rite of passage for any visitor to the Costa del Sol. Set in the southern reaches of the Serrania de Ronda, this hilly region is carpeted with horse
chestnut trees that reach the very apogee of the golden season in November. As the seasons turn, the slopes become blanketed in a palette of
copper metal, ranging from deep browns to vibrant oranges and golds. Take one of three or four turns west as you wind up the Ronda road from CAPTION XXX
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REAL estate agency, a driving school, car park, road and pub are all named after him… but who exactly was Rainer Maria Rilke? The man who gave Ronda the epithet ‘the City of Dreams’ no less, a writer and poet who loved the mountain town so much he ended up staying there for two years. Born in Prague in 1875, the Austrian bowled up in Ronda in 1912 having experienced a titanic case of writer's block in France. Unable to find poetic inspiration, he left his then home in Paris and travelled south to To l e d o , hoping its dramatic architecture,
ROCK ‘N’ RILKE countryside and the paintings of former local El Greco would reignite his creativity. But the inspiration he was seeking eluded him. Instead, he was gripped by a profound sense of alienation. So he ventured further south, firstly to Cordoba and Sevilla, but his depression only deepened. On a whim he took a train to Ronda, where he checked into the Hotel Reina Victoria, built in the 19th century to attract well-to-do British tourists from Gibraltar. Looking out from his room over the famous Tajo below and the Grazalema mountains in the distance he became transfixed by the landscape. He was soon writing prolifically again and praising the town to friends for its ‘splendid air’ and its mountains that ‘spread out like a psalter you could sing psalms from’. His stay in Ronda proved to be a turning point in his poetic development. “I have sought everywhere the city of my dreams, and I have finally found it in Ronda,” he wrote, giving Ronda its nickname. “Ronda was a place of liberation,” explains Tony Stephens, a professor of German at Sydney University. “The poems he wrote there are quite experimental, including one of his
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November 2023
Gateway to history It’s been a key Andalucian nerve centre since the time of the Romans and back in the days of Al Andaluz, Ronda was a key stopping off place for travellers. It´s no wonder then that you feel like you have stepped back in time in the cobbled streets of Ronda old town. Around every corner you will find historic palaces and townhouses, each with their very own original entrances. Many hide grand townhouses inside (left), while others lead to emblematic squares.
DRIVE: The winding roads snake through the copper-coloured trees
Marbella and you will soon find yourself on a journey like no other. The constant switchbacks trace the contours of the hills, frequently providing a balcony over breathtaking
vistas of endless peaks and troughs. Drive deeper and you’ll reach one of the half dozen whitewashed villages dotted high up in this world. It was back in the 15th century, when they were founded by Arab populations fleeing Christian armies after the fall of Ronda in 1485 and the whole Kingdom of Granada seven years later in 1492. As the last Islamic stronghold in Iberia collapsed, thousands of Muslims relocated to the secluded, hidden valleys south of Ronda and also
up around the Alpujarras and the Axarquia. The Genal Valley provided a refuge from persecution, at least for a time. Today, each village is a charming microcosm of a lost world, attracting mushroom hunters, hikers, photographers and couples seeking out a romantic bimble under the gold and ochre. The crisp mountain air and the friendly hospitality of the locals make it well worth taking the trip and spending a night, or at the very least, nearby in Ronda. Stop for a tapa in Igualeja, venture further into the forest and enjoy a hot chocolate or coffee in Pujerra, and put on the hiking boots in Cartajima or Alpandeire. You’ll not regret it.
Ronda’s Best Sports Bar
Everyone knows Hemingway and Welles, but there is another famous expat writer who is today deservedly honoured in Ronda, writes Paul Whitelock greatest, The Spanish Trilogy.” Rilke is arguably the best-known German poet, and today stands as a towering figure in 20th century literature. So it is appropriate that there is a statue in the grounds of Ronda’s historic Reina Victoria hotel and a small museum installed inside. For anyone interested he stayed in Room 208 and a few of his old artefacts are on display including, intriguingly, a copy of his original hotel bill.
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November 2023
A focus on
Serrania de Ronda
Lovers Lanes
EL MUELLE DE ARRIATE restaurant | lunch and dinner
IDYLLIC: Arriate is ‘an island’ surrounded by Ronda´s Serrania mountains
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T was on Valentine's Day four centuries ago that Arriate won its freedom. On February 14, in 1630, the villagers clubbed together to pay 352,739 Maravedies, the currency back then, in order to buy their independence from Ronda. An auspicious day, it meant the attractive white village of 5000 souls finally came of age and to put itself in charge of its destiny. Appropriately picking St Valentine as its patron saint, it has celebrated the day with a public holiday ever since. And now, the town hall is going one step further, rebranding the village as Andalucia’s official ‘Pueblo de Amor’ and encouraging star-crossed lovers from around the world to take a visit. As well as promoting its romantic mountain backdrop in the heart of the Serrania de Ronda, it is championing its charming local architecture and its original cuisine. But there is
so much more in this beautiful rural escape, just ten minutes from Ronda. For starters it has its ferias, Semana Santa in particular, which is known throughout Spain for its intensity. Reaching fever pitch on Good Friday, practically every family has a member in one of the two main brotherhoods, despite not being a religious village and voting staunchly communist or socialist since Franco died in the 1970s. Such is the competition to be involved, the brotherhoods hold lotteries for the right to carry the tronos (or floats) of Jesus and Mary, who movingly meet late on Good Friday. Other ferias are the Romeria in Spring, the Dia de la Vieja, a day when all the pensioners are taken out to the countryside, and the now famous Fiesta en el Aire, which takes place in October and saw around 40,000 visitors this year. “It is becoming a key event not just for Arriate, but now for the whole of the Serrania,” explains mayor Javier Anet, a photographer by trade. “The revenue it brings
WEDNESDAY TO SATURDAY | LUNCH AND DINNER SUNDAY | LUNCH ONLY
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Arriate got its name from the Arabic term Arriadh, which means ‘the gardens’ or ‘flower bed’. Much of the area was, in fact, a huge market garden and being well irrigated it provided most of the fruit and vegetables for nearby Ronda in Moorish times.
HISTORIC: Arriate gained its ‘freedom’ from Ronda by payin
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Arriate is becoming the official ‘Pueblo de Amor’ (Village of Love) with St Valentine being its patron saint and Valentina, a stork, its emblem, writes Jon Clarke in over three days is extraordinary and all the hotels that weekend in Ronda are now full too.” A keen environmentalist, having studied Geography at university, he is also heavily involved in the drive to promote the village’s amazing green spaces. Seeing the huge opportunity of being located next to the recently created Sierra de las Nieves National Park, he is planning a series of circular walks around the village and into the nearby hills for 2024. The best will be a four kilometre trip into the land that time forgot, a stunning hidden valley, called the Arroyo de la Ventilla, that literally begins in the centre of Arriate. The walk into the little-known gorge - a mini version of Ronda’s but much less visited - is crammed full of flora and fauna, including orchids, eagles and even wild animals such as genets and stoats. Even more interesting are the cave houses carved into the vertical sandstone cliffs and other evidence of man that goes back way before the Romans. “It’s a breathtaking space and a real adventure for anyone looking for a genuine escape,” explains Anet. “It’s this natural way of life we want to promote to anyone thinking of visiting the area.” In the heart of the village you’ll want to
ng 352.000 ‘maravedies’ in 1630
visit the local church and, in particular, one of the various ham factories that are in some cases centuries old. One of these in the charming pedestrianised Calle Callejuela has been open as a shop since 1900, a fact proven by the number carved into its pretty wrought iron doorway. The best ham (and cheese) by far however, is that made by Melgar in the village. This family-run business is already 90 years old and it has a well-run shop tucked away in the heart of the village, not to mention various shops in Ronda. One place you certainly mustn’t miss is the converted cinema of Los Caireles restaurant and bar on the high street. There are few surprises as cool as walking through the easy-to-miss wooden door into this wonderful space that still has much of its original memorabilia still in situ and on the walls. Run by brothers Monolo and Roberto Rivera, its a lovely conversion of the 1940s Cine Ideal, that is somehow still intact out back. People came for miles around despite the movies being heavily censored by the local priest and mayor, who would watch the film first demanding cuts. It shut in 1988 due to dwindling audiences and firstly became a flamenco venue, before becoming a bar and restaurant, with the brothers fighting off offers to turn it into a supermarket or a block of flats. “This is our legacy and part of our town’s key history,” says Roberto. “I grew up watching Cinema Paradiso and always dreamt of one day opening the cinema up again. One day we hope to be able to find the funding to do that.” For dining, consistently one of the most highly rated eateries in the Serrania is El Muelle, just on the outskirts of town. Remarkably this was Spain’s Number One restaurant on TripAdvisor for many years and it is run by the well-travelled Dutchman Frank Rottgering, who has created - appropriately an extremely romantic spot out of a converted 100-year-old railway building. It’s perfect for romantic couples, particularly as the sun sets on the terrace on warm summer evenings, but equally also by candlelight and a warm fire in winter.
LAND THAT TIME FOTGOT: The Arroyo de la ventilla walk is one of southern Spain´s most scenic and exhilarating
A family business since 1934 Jamones y Embutidos Melgar
DID YOU KNOW 1. At just over eight kilometres square Arriate is the smallest district in Malaga province. 2. The village has been staunchly left wing since the death of dictator Franco in 1975, with the locals insisting their snobbish ‘pico’ neighbours in Ronda may have the money, but Arrietenos are far more worldly and friendly. “We are certainly far more open than Ronda locals,” explains businesswoman Carmeli Gamarro, whose family firm Melgar have been curing and salting meat for many centuries. “The Arriatenos are worldly people, who have travelled the globe in order to work,” she continues.
Jamón Ibérico and all types of high quality pork products info@embutidosmelgar.com tel: 952 16 50 25 Calle Gabriel Celaya, 1, 29350 ARRIATE (Málaga) W W W.E M B U T I D O S M E LG A R.CO M
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November 2023
CAVEMEN COLONY
Serrania de Ronda
The
All about
Ronda ‘n’ about
From bandit hideouts to Roman wine cellars, there is so much to see and do close to Ronda, writes Jon Clarke
R
ONDA is surrounded, the Sierra de las Nieves and the Sierra de Grazalema, not to mention its very own breathtaking Serrania. These surrounding hills are creaking with wonderful walks and pretty towns and villages to visit, all easy to reach in the car and most with their own excellent places to stay and eat. Here are a few top picks for a trip out of Ronda.
ROMAN RONDA
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15-minute drive from Ronda takes you to the ancient city of Acinipo, where the Romans built another ancient settlement The highest hill for miles around, it still has much evidence of their skills with a large part of its amphitheatre intact and a lot more to look at, not to mention the views. The visitor centre is only open for the morning, but one can always climb up to the amphitheatre out of hours.
PREHISTORY KEPT ALIVE
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CLINICA VETERINARIA
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HE historic Roman town of Setenil de las Bodegas is a real eye opener and amazing for photography. Nestled in the rolling landscape, 20 minutes out of Ronda, it was built around a series of caves, which served to keep the wines of the Romans cool in summer, hence its name. It is best to leave your car outside the town, wander up to the old fortress before heading down to the famous overhanging cave for a fine tapas lunch.
WOOLY WONDERS
OR anyone wanting an idea of what life was like in Ronda 5,000 years ago, head to Algaba, a short drive out of Ronda. This wonderful estate has recreated a prehistoric village showing clearly how the area’s forefathers lived, how they ground their bread, decorated their homes and what they did with their dead. There are also lots of rare breeds of cows and goats and you can even stay in the nearby finca if you fancy it. Visit www.algabaronda.com
Z
AHARA and Grazalema (below) are two of the most evocative towns around Ronda. Both set in spectacular scenery and with some lovely sites, Zahara has a towering castle above it and a great restaurant Al Lago, while Grazalema (a beautifully conserved gem) was once the centre of the wool industry and you can still buy delightful rugs and bedspreads.
SA
MAYOR
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BANDIT TERRITORY
T Cristina Mayol Garrrido
tel: 952 87 20 24 C. Lola Peña Parres, 8, 29400 Ronda, Málaga
HE Serrania was once a major stronghold for bandoleros (bandits) and the tiny towns of Benaojan and Montejaque were famously where many holed up. But there is much more, such as the Cueva de la Pileta, near Montejaque (left), which has the oldest cave paintings in Spain, while Benaojan is the centre of the ham and sausage industry. There is also a fabulous walk from Benaojan Estacion down the river to Jimera de Libar, from where you can get the train back. At each end is a great lunch spot, with hotel Molino del Santo, when open in season, the obvious pick.
PREACHING THE BLUES
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HILE it’s about as stunning as any of the pretty villages around Ronda, there is one big difference with Juzcar… it’s blue. This is thanks to the Smurf movie that in 2011 decided to use the tiny village as the mythical base of the tiny creatures. It has been used a handful of times since and voted to stay blue some years back. But apart from the many attractions for kids, based around the movie, it is also the perfect place for a walk and to see Griffon vultures and crag martins.
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November 2023
All about
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The
E UR CT PI
Important Arabic history of Ronda included in exciting town exhibition at Claustro Santo Domingo
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NEW exhibition is showing off the most important Arabic architecture in Southern Spain. The wonderful exhibit at Ronda’s Antigua Claustro Santo Domingo also selects dozens of the best examples of Moorish design. It is certainly an appropriate place to display photos of the key buildings still standing, including, naturally, the Alhambra, in Granada and the Alcazar, in Sevilla, but also much lesser known buildings, such as the secret mosque at Almonaster la Real, in Huelva. Included in the exhibition are the celebrated Arabic baths of Ronda (above left), although it doesn’t pick out the interesting way the reconquest failed to hide the Arabic style of its Santa Maria la Mayor church.
BATTLE STATIONS Picture by: Jon Clarke
Pic Credits: Jon Clarke
L IA EC SP
VERY MOORISH
IT’S the moment Napoleon’s unpopular army is finally sent into retreat by a legion of local townsfolk. Pitchforks, muskets and all... And Ronda Romantica, when the whole town dresses up in 19th century garb, in spring is a must-visit event.
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November 2023
GAUCIN - BALCÓN DE LA SERRANIA
Gaucin is the perfect place to get outside and get active
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T’S not hard to see why Gaucín is known colloquially as ‘El Balcon de La Serrania de Ronda’. Perched on a rocky outcrop at over 600m above sea level, the beautiful village has some of the best views in Europe, particularly across to North Africa. Sitting in the Sierra del Hacho, this is a foothold into one of Andalucia’s most stunning mountain ranges, the Serrania de Ronda, and Gaucin is its mostly Western point. Surrounded by breath-taking mountain scenery with stunning views across two continents, it's ideal for a day trip or long weekend, being just 30 km from the Costa del Sol. The best time to visit is the cooler winter months when you can combine outdoor activity and fresh mountain air with great local and international food. If you like hiking, cycling, birdwatching, mountain-climbing - or just simply sitting outside a restaurant terrace admiring the views - then make sure Gaucin is at the top of your list of things to do this Autumn. Here are a few of my top tips of what to do in Gaucin:
Pic Credit: DRNMarbella Francisco Tineo
Hiking
Pack your walking shoes and get ready for some invigorating hikes immersed in wonderful nature. Whether you are a keen hiker or just fancy a family stroll before lunch, you can take advantage of the excellent network of walking routes ranging from 6 to 14km in length. The majority start and finish in the village and the excellent tourist office in Paseo Ana Toval has all the information you’ll need. I particularly recommend route VI ‘La Umbria’ which takes you through the MAJESTIC: Gaucin sits at 600m in the Sierra del Hacho with amazing views of Africa
HOTEL & RESTAURANT
“Enjoy the finest cuisine of the
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November 2023 From previous page
area’s famous chestnut forests and is particularly beautiful during autumn. It’s an easy walk of 6 km, relatively flat and will take about an hour and a half. Another easy family route is route VIII ‘Guzmán El Bueno’ which circles the village and again takes approximately 90 minutes. The route passes the battle site where Perez de Guzman known as Guzman ‘the Good’ - died in 1309 during the siege of Gaucin’s emblematic Castle Aguila, that perches above the village and is lit up beautifully at night. If you fancy a longer walk then Route III ‘La Adelfilla’ is maybe more for you. This route forms part of the famous route known as ‘Ruta de los Viajeros Románticos’, one of the most historic routes in Spain which follows the path taken by the travellers of the XIX cen-
All about
Serrania de Ronda
The
Views and very high places tury as they made their way on foot or on horseback from Gibraltar to Ronda, resting at towns and villages such as Gaucin. This route is only 7.5 KM but bear in mind that it has steep climbs back up to the village, well worth it as you will be rewarded with spectacular views of the Genal Valley. www.visitgaucin.com/en/walking/
Vias Ferratas
Walking is not the only way to experience the beauty of this very special part of Andalucia. In addition to cycling and horseback riding, Gaucin is home to two of the
best Vias Ferratas in the Serrania. These specially-equipped climbing structures provide breathtaking views and an exhilarating experience for the more adventurous spirits. Both the via Feretta of Sierra del Hacho and that of the Castillo del Aguila form part of the Via Ferrata National Park of the Serrania, one of the most important in Spain. So, if you are an adrenaline junkie and the idea of being perched high on a steel cable on a Sunday morning sends your pulse rocketing then make sure to book in with one of the recognised guides and build this into your weekend schedule.
www.visitgaucin.com/en/vias-ferratas-2/
CELEBRATED: Walking in the chestnut woods in winter
After the excitement of a morning’s climb, you may prefer a more relaxed way to soak up the natural beauty and Gaucin is an ideal place for birdwatching in the sunny clear winter months. The village has a diversity of ecosystems attracting many resident birds and of course being located on a main migratory path between Africa and Europe many species are on their flight path. Throughout the year Griffon Vultures fill the sky and breed in three nearby important colonies. Interesting sedentary birds inhabit the shrubs of the Sierra del Hacho and you can see Sardinian Warblers, Cirl Buntings and Southern Grey Shrikes. The crags at the castle are the home for Blue Rock thrushes, Crag Martins and Rock bunting. In the forests you can find Iberian woodpecker, Passerine, Tits, Nuthatches, Firec-
Pic Credit: Diego Troyano
Pic Credit: Maria Calvente Mendoza
Birdwatching and Flora
Pic Credit: Pisandolacima Aventuras
22
rests, Red Crossbills and Coal Tits. If you would prefer a guided nature walk that can be organised through the tourist office at 34 952 15 00 85 or visit: www.visitgaucin.com/en/ bird-watching-2/
Sports Events
If you prefer to watch rather than participate in so much outdoor activity then Gaucin now hosts many sporting events which make a great way to see the area. The Ultra Genal extreme mountain race has just taken place but coming up in February 2024 is the ‘Gaucin Backyard’ which promises to be another exciting event. If you wish to participate or just come and watch you can find more info on
the town halls website: www.gaucin. es/14491/eventos-deportivos
Castle visit
Of course you may just fancy a slow gentle amble through this whitewashed village before lunch at one of the award-winning restaurants. Pick up a map from the tourist office and visit the castle and the stunning cemetery before your reservation. Take a slow walk up to the castle and soak up the history and the views across the straits of Gibraltar as you wet your appetite. The ruins of the Castillo del Aguila are located at the top of the town at 688 meters above sea level and look proudly over the Genal Valley, Campo de Gibraltar and North Africa. It received its name because of the birds of prey that frequented the castle and can still be seen around the ruins today. The castle is of Roman origin but was reinforced by the Moors in the period of AlAndalus. Since then it has been rebuilt several times. The wall, the ‘Homenaje’ tower, the water tanks and an escape mine are all preserved. Guzman El Bueno died in the sur-
ACTIVITIES: Include horseriding and climbing (top), while (above) birdlife teems in the area
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November 2023
roundings of the castle in 1309 when he tried to conquer it from the Moors. Note that the opening hours of the castle during these winter months is from 10:30 to 13:30 and 16:00 to 18:00 7 days a week.
The Municipal Cemetery
Pic Credit: Riding Fun in the Sun
Built under the cliffs of the castle lies the municipal cemetery, an incredibly beautiful and peaceful place to spend a few minutes. The lime tombstones contrast with the colours of both of the surrounding
Pic Credit: Maria Calvente Mendoza
BATTLES: Leader Guzman el Bueno died trying to seize Gaucin’s castle
flowers and the cemetery's own wonderful garden and if you look up you can enjoy the impressive tower of the Castillo to Águila from a different perspective. Next to the cemetery is the Mirador de la Laguna from which we can enjoy an incredible view of the Genal Valley with Gibraltar and the coast of Africa in the background.
Retaurants
Gaucin has several award-winning restaurants offering fine local cuisine or international options. They use mostly local produce and both Azulete and Fructuosa have been awarded a ‘Solete’ by the Guia Repsol, while Restaurant Platero has the much-coveted Bib Gourmand from Michelin.
Always make sure to make a reservation in advance. Alternatively you can sit at a terrace of a local bar soaking up the atmosphere of this idyllic mountain village. www.visitgaucin.com/ en/where-to-eat/
Gaucin has a great tou rist service based out of the tourist office in the village or call on 00 34 952 15 00 85. It is open from 10:00 to 14:00 Alternatively email tur or visit the website wwismo@visitgaucin.com w.visitgaucin.com
E Facebook - Visit Gaucín Q Instagram - @visitgaucin
DID YOU KNOW?
952 147 834 * Vo l u n t a r y i n s u r a n c e c o v e r. S u b j e c t t o c o m p a n y u n d e r w r i t i n g c o n d i t i o n s . * D a t a e x t r a c t e d f r o m p r o c e s s c l o s u r e s u r v e y s a f t e r u s i n g o u r R o a d s i d e A s s i s t a n c e a n d b r e a k d o w n s e r v i c e s .
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7/9/23 10:34
24
November 2023
All about
Serrania de Ronda
The
Going grape!
MATURING: A vineyard in Ronda la Vieja, with Acinipo in the distance
Ronda’s winemaking prowess can be traced back to its Roman coins which featured grape tendrils… and a pair of expats four decades ago
I
T is certain that Ernest Hemingway would have approved. Never known to hold back on the juice, he could famously drink most of his fellow writers under the table and once wrote: “Wine is a grand thing. It makes you forget all the bad”. So the fabled writer would be amazed to discover that Ronda has nearly three dozen vineyards in its nearby hills, these days. The majority have popped up over the last two decades and grow a variety of grapes with some - such as Melonera, Rome and Tinto Velasco - indigenous to the region. Ronda also now has its own appellation (DO Sierras de Malaga, albeit shared with a couple of other regions) and there is a well signposted wine route, which aficionados can follow around the local valleys and villages. There is even a new centre - the Milamores Centro Integral de Vino - which helps to coordinate wine tours and has a museum that tells the region’s grape-growing history.
Romano plonk
Photo by Karl Smallman
It was the Romans who first planted vines in the Serrania de Ronda. They realised the soil and the climate
By Jon Clarke
were perfect for winemaking. To best understand this, take a ride up to Ronda la Vieja, the next valley over to the west. It is here at a height of 1000 metres that you’ll find the ancient Roman settlement of Acinipo, which once spread around its still largely intact amphitheatre with impressive fortifications. Becoming known as the ‘city of wine’, it was one of the very few regions of the Roman Empire that produced good enough vino to export back to Rome. It was so good the legionnaires were even allowed to mint their own coinage, appropriately with the tendrils of a vine and grapes on one side. The neighbouring village of Setenil de las Bodegas handily provided its famous caves as cellars for the maturing wine. And once they were approaching the right age and/or strength they were dispatched on the week-long journey to Rome, as was the local olive oil in amphoras. Further proof of the Romans making wine in the area can be found on the
south-east facing slopes near Arriate. Here, at Bodega Morosanto, archaeologists have excavated a sizable wine operation with pipes through which wine was transported to vats. The discovery – among columns, statues and a 21-metre Roman pool - now means that historians can definitively link the production of wine in Ronda in 3AD. The nearby rolling hills between Arriate, Ronda and Acinipo had literally hundreds of hectares under vine and today the numbers are rising up again. This includes the two dozen hectares planted by Ramos-Paul at Bodega El Chantre, and the largest local producer Chinchilla that is said to now have over 30 hectares. The rebirth of the area’s winegrowing prowess started, ironically, thanks to expats. It was German aristocrat Principe Alfonso Hohenlohe who first planted vines in the area in the 1980s, having sold his shares in the Marbella Club hotel, which he built in the 1950s. Looking for another challenge he plant-
ed 80,000 French vines at Cortijo de Other German-speaking vintners la Monjas, which nestled in a natural have followed suit. valley, and sought help from various Martin Kieninger from Austria and winemaking pals, including Marqués Theodor Conrad from Switzerland de Griñon and Michel Rolland. came here two decades ago and The wines however were rather dis- are now also well-established. appointing (apart from the rose) until Things are moving fast and there a skilled local oenologist Juan María is even talk today of an American Vetas, who had done his time in Bor- winemaker recently moving into the deaux, was drafted in. area in Ronda La VieImprovements led to ja. More of which to the vineyard being sold follow. Historians can to an international conThe majority of boglomerate with Juan definitively link degas are small famMaria heading to his ily-run wineries, but the production own smallholding just they can still be visited outside Arriate, where by appointment in the of wine in he makes amazing wine main, some offering Ronda in 3AD to this today. far more than others. Another key trailblazer A top pick is that of Marwas Friedrich Schatz, a tin Kieninger, an archiGerman from Baden-Württemberg, the tect by trade, who not only planted an best wine-producing area of Germany. incredible vineyard in stunning counHe moved to Ronda three decades tryside near Ronda, but also built his ago with his family and set up a vine- own home and bodega. yard on the road to Acinipo. Today he makes six wines on his small To visit head to www.bodegakestate of just over three hectares and ieninger.com or call Martin on regularly wins international awards. 00 34 630161156
AN UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCE AT AN ORGANIC VINEYARD IN RONDA Guided visit of the Kieninger bodega and vineyard, plus a tasting of four distinct wines, alongside a range of delicious local quality tapas from the Serrania. RESERVE: 618 685 152 Email: araceli@bodegakieninger.com VIDEO PRESENTATION: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gL3VdNftgUE&t=13s
www.bodegakieninger.com
25
November 2023
WHERE TO EAT
TOP OF THE CHARTS
The Best Experience to enjoy with friends Bodega Visits
Home Tastings
Olive Oil Tastings
Bodega visits from
25€
Ronda’s superb mix of eateries - from spit-and-sawdust bars to Michelin stars - is garnering awards and much more, writes Jon Clarke
H
E had to pinch himself when he read the Olive Press story last month. It only made a column on
our food and drink page, but it was an honour that needed noting: an obscure meat restaurant in Ronda’s industrial estate had made Spain’s Top Ten best restaurants, according to Trip Advisor. “I guess we are doing something right,” joked Martin Abramzon, outside his achingly hip joint, Kutral. “But really it's the whole town that needs an award for its incredible range of places to eat,” he adds. “Gastronomically we just keep getting better and better and offering more new places to eat. “Want variety? We’ve got great fish places, steak joints like mine and some excellent tapas spots, all with a very varied price point. We even now have a Japanese sushi place.” Fellow chef, Javier Pimentel, at Taberna Almacen, agrees. And he should know, having trained at San Sebastian’s three Michelin star cathedral of cuisine Akelarre, as well as later
LOCAL TALENT: Brothers Tomas and Carlos, while (above) Almacen’s Javier and (top) Javi at Porton
HONOURED: Martin Abramzon’s Kutral restaurant is winning plaudits
training up Malaga’s top chef, Dani Carnero. “Ronda is really in fashion now and with so many visitors it means we can really go for a general improvement in quality and push for more creativity,” he explains. His popular place is a case in point. There are always lots of specials of the day and prices for tapas, are startlingly good value. I ate extraordinarily well here this month, loving his incredibly fresh - and deeply smoky - baba ganoush, which came with fried sweet potato chips, dried carrots and bananas. Always looking for the finest local ingredients, he is now using a superb small artisan baker, Panaderia Maximo, in nearby Benaojan for various tapas. The best is simply called ‘Mollete de Benaojan’ filled with lip-smacking blue cheese and local Iberian ham. For something at the other end of the scale, authenticity in the extreme, head just around the corner to the tiny hole-in-the-wall El Porton. A torero’s cape length from the famous bullring this spit-and-sawdust joint best typifies Ronda for me. Run by Javi for four decades, it is where the local writers, tour guides and business folk go at lunchtime, or for a cheeky mid-afternoon cana or brandy. This is where you’ll find my favourite Ronda tapa, the wonderful quails egg with a slice of Jamon Iberico on toast. Washed down with a glass of fino and a snippet of banter, you are watched from all corners by a cornucopia of bullfighting photos and keepsakes, collected over the last century. To further breathe in the history of Ronda are two legendary restaurants guaranteed to warm the cockles in winter. The first, Pedro Romero (left), is jam-packed with bullfighting memorabilia, making it worthy of almost-museum status. Named after the matador
who founded modern bullfighting and put Ronda well and truly on the map, Pedro Romero is run by brothers Carlos and Tomas, since their 88-year-old father hung up his hat. He is still often in situ mind, eating at his favourite table, and the dishes have hardly changed, in particular with classics such as carrillada Continues on next page
CONTACT US BELOW OR BOOK ONLINE
tel/WhatsApp:
+34 656 543 343
info@milamoresronda.com www.milamoresronda.com
951 48 98 18 hola@tabernaelalmacen.com www.tabernaelalmacen.com Cl Los Remedios, 7. 29400 Ronda, Málaga
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November 2023
WHERE TO EAT
All about
Serrania de Ronda
The
From previous page
THE PEAK OF DINING
VANGUARD: Bardal’s Benito with Jon Clarke
(bulls cheek) or rabo de toro (oxtail) which easily equals the best you can eat in Cordoba, from where the dish heralds. Another classic joint is Restaurante Jerez, now in its 75th year, and in the third generation of the same family that opened it. Also opposite the bullring, the Lopez brothers run it as a tight ship and the range of dishes is extraordinary. It is elegant in the extreme and the amazing light that floods in from outside, as well as a range of paintings of local scenes and vistas, really makes it. Food-wise I loved the simple cup of minty broth (top right) as a starter, as well as a seafood soup, full of vegetables, cod and all round goodness. The mains vary by the season and in winter there is plenty of game, including an incredibly original venison wellington, in a mushroom and almond sauce. The pudding of chestnut
HISTORIC: Open for 75 years and three generation, Restaurante Jerez is tradition personified
souffle from the nearby Genal Valley was as good as I’ve eaten all year. At the other end of the scale, just 50m away up a short alley, is Bardal, which counts on two Michelin stars, putting it among the best in Spain. The laboratory of Benito Gomez, a genuine livewire, he has shaken up the town over the last decade, following 20 years in Catalunya and a solid BY MARTIN ABRAMZON training under one of the godfathers of Spanish cuisine, Ferran Adria, at El Bulli.
He is a true champion of Ronda’s local ingredients which, due to its extraordinary geography, includes amazing vegetables, mushrooms, ham, cheeses and meat. I first ate Benito’s food - a 25-course masterclass - when he was head chef at Adria’s Andalucian sister restaurant at Hacienda Benazuza, near Sevilla, some 15 years ago. It still counts as one of the best meals of my life. And Bardal is not far off. He nowadays has a second diffusion restaurant, Tragata, near the Parador, which is easily one of the best places to eat well in Ronda. Extremely popular it’s advisable to book, although you can often find a table outside and there is a waiting list, that normally
only takes about 30 minutes. Another well-trained outsider, who is well and truly settled in Ronda with a wife and two kids is the aforementioned Martin Abramzon from Kutral. Having trained with famous three star Basque legend Martin Berasategui, this friendly Argentinian grabbed a job at the once Michelin-star joint Tragabuches. But he grew bored and decided to open his own unique parilla-style dining palace in the most unusual place imaginable: at the end of a dead end road in the industrial estate. And his plan worked making Kutral easily the coolest restaurant in Ronda, with the best cuts of meat Spain can offer, while also offering some excellent local vegetable dishes and plenty of specials each week. The word certainly got around and, aside from recently grabbing sixth
TOP QUALITY: The team at Barrafina only serve up the best ingredients available from around Spain, while the location is atmospheric in the extreme
Traditional dishes of Ronda
SERVICE WITH A SMILE: Paco and Rafa at El Bandolero and (above) terrace and inside Entre Vinos
best restaurant spot from Trip Advisor, he has been asked to cook privately for, among other celebrities, Gareth Bale and Cristiano Ronaldo over recent years. Incredibly, there are more three Michelin star trainees in Ronda, one of the best being Jose Antonio junior at Tropicana, who also trained with Martin Berasategui. He and his father, Jose Antonio senior, have done an amazing job turning this place into yet another ‘must visit’ joint delivering a great range of carefully considered dishes - many vegetarian and gluten-free - focusing on local ingredients with lots of small twists. For wine lovers you mustn’t miss Entre Vinos,
which has over 100 wines from Ronda, with more than a dozen wines available by the glass. There are some excellent tapas and it's a charming place to while away a few hours, particularly on warm days on the terrace outside. Just up the hill is Siempre Igual, which is exactly that ‘Always the same’, it's a bloody excellent place to enjoy tapas and some excellent wine with friends. Run by a friendly family team, they always have some experimental new dishes, worth a try and in a great location, just up from the bullring. Down in Barrio San Francisco, a charming part of the old town, one of the most exciting new restaurants in Ronda has just opened. Called Barrafina, it’s run by Spain’s former ham-cutting champion Juan Ramirez Gil, himself the son of the town’s first wine merchant. Already running Ronda’s best ham and Continues on next page
Where history sings! 75 years in the same family’ Plaza Teniente Arce,2, 29400, RONDA – Next to the bullring Tel: 952 87 20 98 email: reservas@restaurnatejerez.com
Traditional & Mediterranian food We specialise in Andalusian Wines
Tlf: 687 153 867 / 609 925 554 NEW DISHES: At Siempre Igual
C/ San José n° 2 Esquina Calle Jerez. Ronda ( Málaga)
28
All about
November 2023
WHERE TO EAT
Serrania de Ronda
The
From previous page
TA B E R N A
tel: +34 657 03 16 87 Calle Las Tiendas, Número 28 Plaza Carmen Abela, 29400 Ronda
gloria
The tastiest mix of talents
cheese shop, Jamoneria Granadina, it was only logical that Juan would open a decent restaurant to parade his wares. Barrafina does exactly that, serving up exquisite ingredients, just inside the city’s old walls, by the atmospheric Moorish Almocabar arch. Aside from the best ham in Ronda, the goats cheeses from Grazalema are spectacular, while the tuna tartare and beef tataki are superb. Nearby, is easily one of the friendliest places in southern Spain. Cerveceria El Bandolero sits in the most charming square in Ronda, Plaza San Francisco, where you watch the world go by. It’s very much service with a smile from the two cousins, Paco and Rafa, who run backwards and forwards charming guests and plying you with excellent simple and local fare, with a bent towards Carnes a la Brasa. Finally, let’s not forget the recently opened corner joint Mi Manuela, in Plaza Carmen Abela, with Calle Tiendas. This is a charming new spot run by a lovely local couple with some great local dishes, unpretentious and good value. Best of all you are sitting in one of the nicest squares in the heart of Ronda, where you can enjoy traditional dishes, but with a modern touch, using the best local products. Another amazing new place, just opened, and completely unique is the restaurant Gloria Bendita. An agreement set up by a local Ronda family with the nuns at the main convent in the heart of the Casco H i s to r i -
bendita
A unique gastronomic experience Locally sourced quality products Traditional dishes
W
T
I
A
N
P
E
A
S
S
We take care of our earth and the taste of its people...
Reservas: 722 27 90 51 / 951 15 39 68 Pl. Duquesa de Parcent 5, Ronda
LOCATION, LOCATION: And Gloria Bendito is set up in an ancient convent
co, you either sit in Ronda’s loveliest squares, Plaza Duquesa de Parcent, which overlooks the main church and classic town hall, or inside the actual monastery in a charming dining room. The menu is surprisingly complete and some of the dishes such as the ‘flowers of artichokes’ served with foie were creative and delicious. The small apple tart with blood sausage is original, while a leg of baby goat also comes highly recommended. There are some great tapas dishes, a decent wine list, as well as puddings actually made by the nuns.
Around the Serrania
Arriate is one of the key spots to head to if you’re looking for inspiration dining. A long-time favourite is run by talented Dutchman Frank Rottgering, next to the charming old railway station. Called El Muelle, regulars drive all the way from the coast and even Sevilla to eat, and it’s not hard to see why, it being both charming and atmospheric in equal measures. Local chef Isa is as popular with foreigners and tourists, as the locals, who love her generous servings and ability to change by the month
and always offer specials of the day. Another exciting new addition to the food scene in Arriate is Los Caireles. This amazing converted cinema is one of the most original, must-visit joints this winter. The creation of brothers Roberto and Manolo, who helps out in the kitchen, it is slowly finding its way to being a leading culinary find. You will love the vibes; the music and the ambience, surrounded by movie reels, projectors, and posters, not to mention some of the seats, tickets and even adverts shown before the main event. Outside on a wonderful rural backroad from Arriate towards Sevilla you will find Venta Pelistre. Now 70 years old this is the very definition of an Andalucian countryside venta. Run by the same family since it opened, it sits by a river in the sleepy Llano de la Cruz valley, but is anything but on Saturday or Sunday lunchtime, when the whole world beats their way to its door. And no surprise, the local food here is not just homemade and delicious, but if you pay more than 25 euros a head, give me a call at the Olive Press and I’ll eat my hat. Further afield in Gaucin you must try La Fructuosa, which is a stunning restaurant with rooms. The beautiful spot in the centre of the village was bought and totally renovated by Belgian Daniel and his partner a few years ago. The joyous dining room, with its wooden beams and amazing views, is the perfect place for a weekend meal and certainly try and stay the night if you can.
CHARMING: New joint Mi Manuela is a hip place to seek out
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November 2023
ATMOSPHERIC: El Muelle in Arriate is a beautiful place with matching food
The perfect romantic hideaway in the Casco Histórico de Ronda
For bookings and information call +34 633 663 339 or email laalcantarillaronda@gmail.com
Calle Torrejones 19, 29400 Ronda, Spain
Established in 2006 we specialise in inland property with an Established in 2006 we specialise in inland property with an extensive portfolio of white village and country homes. extensive portfolio of white village and country homes. Ronda Properties Estate Agent Ronda Properties c/San EstateJosé, Agent1 Inland Andalusia, Inland Andalusia, c/San José, 29400, Ronda, Malaga, Spain 1 29400, Ronda, Malaga, Spain
Tel: (+34) 952 187 313 Mob: (+34) 608 765 990 Tel: (+34) 952 187 313info@rondaproperties.com Mob: (+34) 608 765 990 Email: Email: www.rondaproperties.com info@rondaproperties.com www.rondaproperties.com
Bed & Breakfast/Townhouse Bed & Breakfast/Townhouse Opportunity to acquire a popular up and running rural tourism
FARMHOUSE, POOL & BARNS FARMHOUSE, POOL & BARNS An old estate – Cortijo 8 bedrooms, 4 bathrooms,
PLOT, Wooden House, Olives PLOT, Wooden House, Olives Country property close to Ronda – Wooden house set in
Bedrooms: 3 Bedrooms: Bathrooms:34 Bathrooms: 4
Bedrooms: 8 Bedrooms: Bathrooms:84 Bathrooms: 4
Bedrooms: 0 Bedrooms: Bathrooms:00 Bathrooms: 0
Opportunity to acquire popular and running tourism business in the heart ofaold town up Ronda. An 18thrural Century business in the easy heartwalking of old town Ronda. Annumerous 18th Century property within distance from property easy walking squares, within outdoor cafes only 2distance minutesfrom fromnumerous famous Ronda squares, outdoor cafes only minutes from famous Ronda Bridge. House is located on a2 pedestrian cobblestone street Bridge. is located adding on a pedestrian cobblestone and hasHouse been renovated contemporary comfortstreet to and has been renovated adding comfort its historic charm, an oasis in thecontemporary old city. Currently usedtoas its historic an converted oasis in theback old city. Currently used as small B&B charm, but easily to private home. small B&B but easily converted back to private home.
Ref: 90541 Ref: 90541
Build: 145m2 Build: 145m2 Plot: 0m2 Plot: 0m2
€ 249,500 € 249,500
An old estate – Cortijo 8 bedrooms, 4 bathrooms, various reception rooms, kitchen, plus a guest apartment various reception rooms, kitchen, plus a guest apartment comprising 1 double bedroom, bathroom, living-room comprising double bedroom, bathroom, living-room and kitchen.1The property boasts a spacious 139m2 and kitchen. Theused property boasts a spacious 139m2 open-plan barn for celebrations and entertainment, open-plan barn used for celebrations and entertainment, with an additional 238m2 barn used for animals, cars, with additionalThe 238m2 barn has usedstables, for animals, and aanworkshop. property pool, cars, and a and a workshop. property has stables, pool, and a 14,045m2 plot of The fertile land suitable for a variety of crops. 14,045m2 plot of fertile land suitable for a variety Own well for water and electricity is connected to of thecrops. grid. Own well for water and electricity is connected to the grid.
Ref: 116665 Ref: 116665
Build: 746m2 Build: 746m2 Plot: 14,025m2 Plot: 14,025m2
€500,000 €500,000
Country property closeelectricity to Ronda&–aWooden house setain a plot 10.000 m2 with private well, plus a plot 10.000 m2 A with electricity a private well, plus storage building. nice piece of &fairly flat land with anaolive storage nice piece of fairly flatclose land with an olive grove & building. vegetableAgarden located within proximity grove vegetable garden located within proximity to the & city. Possibility of construction for aclose house 400m2. to the access. city. Possibility construction for aCoast house50km. 400m2. Good MalagaofInt. Airport 120km. Good access. Malaga Int. Airport 120km. Coast 50km.
Ref: 85944 Ref: 85944
Build: -m2 -m2 Plot: Build: 10,000m2 Plot: 10,000m2
€ 120,000 € 120,000
Inland Inland Property Property Specialists Specialists
tel: (+34) 952 187 313 mob: (+34) 608 765 990 tel: (+34) 952 187 313 mob: (+34) 608 765 990 (We speak English and Spanish) (We speak English and Spanish) email: laserraniaservices@gmail.com www.serrania-services.com email: laserraniaservices@gmail.com www.serrania-services.com Calle, San José, Nº 1 Local, 29400 Ronda, Málaga, Spain Calle, San José, Nº 1 Local, 29400 Ronda, Málaga, Spain
COUNTRY HOUSE, RONDA CENTRAL COUNTRY HOUSE, RONDA CENTRAL Country house 413m2, 5 bedrooms on a 38,911m2 plot.
STATELY HOUSE, ALCALÁ DEL VALLE STATELY HOUSE, ALCALÁ DEL VALLE Traditional home in the heart of Alcalá del Valle, less
Bedrooms: 5 Bedrooms: Bathrooms:55 Bathrooms: 5
Bedrooms: 7 Bedrooms: Bathrooms:72 Bathrooms: 2
Country house 413m2,floor: 5 bedrooms a 38,911m2 plot. Comprising - Ground 2 doubleon bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, Comprising Groundfireplace, floor: 2 double 2 bathrooms, 2 large living-rooms, dining bedrooms, room, kitchen, pantry, 2 large living rooms, fireplace, dining room, kitchen, pantry, laundry and machine room. Upper floor: Master bedroom laundry and machine room. Upper floor: Master bedroom with dressing room and bathroom, 2 double bedrooms with dressing room and bathroom, bedrooms bathroom. Exterior: warehouse,2 double garage, patio, with bathroom. Exterior: warehouse, garage, patio, barbecue, swimming pool, gardens &double olive grove. barbecue, swimming pool, gardens olive grove. energy, Air-conditioning. Underfloor heating.&Aerothermal Air-conditioning. heating. Aerothermal solar panels. WellUnderfloor water. Ronda 5 min. Malaga 106energy, km. solar panels. Well water. Ronda 5 min. Malaga 106 km.
Ref: 101889 Ref: 101889
Build: 413m2 Build: 413m2 Plot: 38,911m2 Plot: 38,911m2
€1,530,000 €1,530,000
Traditional the heart Alcalátownhouse, del Valle, less than 30 minhome from in Ronda. Theof 3-story is than 30 min from Ronda. Thein3-story townhouse, partially renovated & located the most privilegedis partially renovated & 2located in the most privileged enclave of the town, large reception rooms, kitchen with enclave town, 2beds large&reception rooms, with fireplace,of7the spacious 2 large baths. Thekitchen property fireplace, 7 spacious beds & 2 50 large Thestore property benefits from a beautiful patio m2baths. with log and benefits a beautiful 50 m2 with log storeviews. and a laundryfrom room, plus a 30patio m2 terrace superb a laundry room,Tourism plus a 30 m2 terrace superb views. Ideal for Rural or divided intowith Tourist apartments. Ideal forInternational Rural Tourism or divided into Tourist apartments. Malaga Airport 107 km. Malaga International Airport 107 km.
Ref: 101598 Ref: 101598
Build: 298m2 Build: Patio:298m2 50m2 Patio: 50m2
€180,000 €180,000
FINCA, FARAJAN FINCA, FARAJAN Finca in Farajan, 4 hectares approximately with
Finca in Farajan, 4 hectares approximately with condition 2 entrances, a large outbuilding 100 m2 in good 2 entrances, a large 100 m2 in the good condition with a chimney, and outbuilding 3 stables. Water from mains and with a chimney, from the mains a natural Spring.and Set3instables. an area Water of outstanding beautyand a natural Set in an areachestnuts, of outstanding the land isSpring. planted with vines, olivesbeauty and the is The planted vines,Good chestnuts, olives and oakland trees. plot with is fenced. access. oak The plot is fenced. Good access.views. Onlytrees. 200 metres from the village. Excellent Only 200 from village. Excellent views. Ronda 25metres km. Coast 45the km. Ronda 25 km. Coast 45 km.
Ref: MAS_2063 Ref: MAS_2063
Build: 100m2 Build: 100m2 Plot: 40,000m2 Plot: 40,000m2
€ 130,000 € 130,000
PROPERTY
November 29th December 12th 2023
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LIVING THE DREAM Top 3 cities in the world to live in are all in Spain
SPAIN is the country to be in for a high standard of city living and quality of lifestyle, according to InterNations. The online resource for people who live and work abroad released its 2023 Expat City list with Malaga topping the poll followed by Alicante and Valencia in second and third spots. Madrid comes in sixth and Barcelona is in 13th place. The list ranked 49 cities,
By Alex Trelinski
based on how expats feel about living and working abroad over the last year. InterNations surveyed more than 12,000 expats worldwide, representing 177 nationalities and living in 181 countries or territories. The report considered factors such as quality of life, ease of settling in, personal
finance and more. Malaga not only topped the overall list, but it also ranked number one for local friendliness and climate and weather. It also came first in the work and leisure and the worklife balance subcategories. Expats also praised Malaga’s safety, affordable public transportation, numerous recreational sports and good social life. The only negative was employment where Malaga came in at number 41 concerning the local job market.
Finance
TOP: Malaga heads the best city list
The top three cities according to InterNations have several things in common - including ease of settling in, high quality of life and strong rankings for personal finance. Coming in at the bottom of the overall list was Milan at number 49 - making it the worst city in the world to live in of those surveyed. Rome came in number 48, followed by Vancouver at 47.
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FOOD,DRINK & TRAVEL Oil rush Muñoz hat-trick LOOKING FOR MORE November 29th TRAVEL STORIES? December 12th 2023 November 12th 2023 Scan to29th visit our- December website
Boom times are back
MALAGA Airport has welcomed 20 million passengers in a year for the first time in its 104-year history. This achievement beats the previous high of 19.858 million passengers from 2019, and signals that tourism in the region has well and truly bounced back from the Covid nightmare. Since early 2023, Malaga Airport has been breaking traffic records, with July seeing the highest number of passengers and operations in its history. Notably, July 30 witnessed a record 86,396 travellers pass through in a single day. Airport management company Aena confirmed the 20 million mark had been reached by October.
While two Spanish chefs scoop gold and silver MADRID'S Dabiz Muñoz has been crowned the best chef in the world for the third time in a row. Muñoz triumphed at the seventh staging of The Best Chefs Awards for his innovative cuisine and his avant-garde style of cooking. The awards were presented in the city of Merida, Yucatan - one of the richest and most diverse gastronomic regions in Mexico. Completing the winners' podium were the Catalan Albert Adria (second) from
On the moo-ve
#1
By Alex Trelinski
Barcelona's Enigma restaurant followed by Slovenian chef, Ana Ros. Muñoz, 44, is the only three-starred Michelin chef in Madrid with his two establishments DiverXO and StreetXO - with long reservation lists for his restaurant, and long waits in line for his street food outlet. "I'm extremely happy, I never expected to win three times," Muñoz said upon
CADIZ tourism bosses have latched onto a herd of sunbathing cows as they promote Costa de la Luz beaches. Once tourists have gone home from their summer holidays, a different kind of sun-worshipper takes to the sand. Every autumn, Bolonia beach welcomes hundreds of cows, who love chilling on sand during the winter season. Led by the matriarch, ‘Paquita’, the cows are a social media sensation, returning each year to the beach, about an hour and a half from the city of Cadiz. The herd has now become the latest tourist attraction on the Tarifa coastline, with local tourism departments proudly posting about their bovine buddies. The cows arrive at the end of the tourist season as a gate which normally stops them is removed.
#2
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receiving the award. "Thank you to all the chefs who have made the history of world gastronomy. Thanks to them there is a chef like me who has grown up in one of the most incredible countries in the world for gastronomy." The awards featured a special tribute to Ferran Adria - Albert’s brother - a pioneer of innovative cuisine in Spain via his world-famous El Bulli restaurant on the Costa Brava, which closed its doors in 2011. It reopened three years later as a creativity centre to foster culinary innovation. Other Spaniards in the top 10 were Andoni Luis Aduriz of Mugaritz in the Basque Country’s Rentería, (fifth), Mateu Casañas, Oriol Cas-
tro and E d u a r d Xatruch #8 from Disfrutar in Barcelona (seventh) and Joan Roca from El Celler de Can Roca in Catalunya (eighth).
Missing
Adria said: "Chefs, you have the mission of helping the new generations to be extraordinary". He highlighted the values that must not be lost in order to aspire to culinary excellence. "Respect for the past, respect for teammates, honesty and gratitude for the people from whom we have learned," said Adria.
AS the cost of olive oil has surged, supermarkets are resorting to chaining the bottles to the shelves. A succession of poor olive harvests caused by drought has led to sky-rocketing prices for what has been dubbed ‘liquid gold’. One-litre bottles of extra-virgin olive oil are selling for as much as €14.50 in some outlets leading to rising thefts. "We are seeing a major surge in shoplifting," said Ruben Navarro, the CEO of the Tu Super supermarket chain, which operates 30 stores in Andalucia. Since September, Tu Super has been chaining five-litre bottles of olive oil together and padlocking them to shelves to prevent theft. "It is a crazy, extreme measure, but it has worked," Navarro observed. STC, a company supplying anti-theft equipment to retailers, saw a 12-fold increase in orders during the summer from supermarkets wanting devices to protect olive oil.
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FOOD, DRINK & TRAVEL FOOD,DRINK & TRAVEL
November 29th December 12th 2023
BY ROYAL APPOINTMENT Where is Melides - the little corner of Portugal visited by Prince Harry and Meghan, writes Dilip Kuner
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Christmas Tuesday 5th - Saturday 30th December Christmas Menu available (alongside the A La Carte Menu and the Coto House Menu)
HERE is a little corner of Portugal that has been thrust into the spotlight by British royals. Melides, on the Alentejo coast, about 130 km south of Lisbon, is the hidden gem where Prince Harry and Meghan stopped off for a ‘romantic’ break after attending the Invictus games in Germany. There they are said to have
met up with Harry’s cousin Princess Eugenie at her home on the Atlantic coast. Surrounded by rolling rice fields, azure waters, and pristine beaches, the town is a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts.
Christmas Eve and Christmas Day open 1pm to 6pm Christmas Menu available only
RESERVATIONS: +34 951 74 47 77 / +34 627 12 14 43 clive@cotorestaurante.com www.cotorestaurante.com Monday to Saturday: 1pm-12am Sunday: 1pm-6pm Ctra. de Ronda, A-397, Km. 44, 29679 Benahavís, Málaga
OPEN: Hotel Vermelho is owned by Christian Louboutin (inset)
Harry and Meghan could enjoy activities such as hiking, biking, horse riding, and watersports. And if t h ey fancied a bit of unspoilt nature, the nearby Santo Andre nature reserve is home to more than 240 bird species and hundreds of kinds of butterflies. Melides is undergoing a transformation with the arrival of new hotels and resorts - this summer, fashion designer Christian Loubou-
tin's long-awaited Hotel Vermelho finally opened in the heart of the village. Apart from British royals, also spotted in the town have been designer Philippe Starck, Italian countess Noemi Marone Cinzano, actress Kristin Scott Thomas, George Clooney and Brazilian supermodel Gisele Bündchen who has a house nearby. Unlike its more well-known neighbour, Comporta, Melides has a laid-back and unpretentious atmosphere, attracting artists and visitors who appreciate its authenticity. The village remains a place frequented mainly by locals, despite the influx of high-profile residents.
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6th Jan - Three Kings Lunch from 59.90€
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FOOD & DRINK
November 29th December 12th 2023
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ENTRANCED: Harry and Meghan were stunned by the natural beauty
And the town punches well above its weight when it comes to dining options.
Visitors can enjoy a tasty oceanside lunch at Lagoa O Mar on the Melides beach, where they can savour dishes like Amêijoas à Bul-
VISITORS: From left, Kristin Scott Thomas, George Clooney, Philippe Starck and Gisele Bündchen
hão Pato (clams in garlic, olive oil, and white-wine sauce) and fresh grilled sardines, alongside a host of regional dishes featuring the local pork and stews. While Melides is becoming one of the most coveted destinations in the world - it has done so at a price. Property values for up-market homes shot up a jaw-dropping 150% in the first quarter of 2023. So if you want to move to this little corner of paradise, either do it soon, or win the lottery.
T H E O L I V E P R E S S A N D P I C U BA N U S I N V I T E YO U TO A B OT T L E O F W I N E * W i t h eve r y t a b l e re s e r va t i o n - s c a n t h e Q R c o d e.
How David Bowie inspired funeral plan providers Compare Funerals to take the Spanish market by storm
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HEN UK-based funeral plan provider Compare Funerals spotted a gap in Spain’s market in 2020, it was a bit of a no brainer. Founders Jack Smith and Benjamin Beck-Davies were used to operating in the highly secure and regulated UK market, where client funds were always held and protected in a trust. Whereas in Spain, many of the smaller providers did not do this. Meanwhile, the larger and more established funeral companies charged an arm and a leg for all the bells and whistles. Jack Smith told the Olive Press: "We wanted to bridge this gap. “Our aim was to make funeral plans more affordable but also secure, importing the regulated environment we were accustomed to in the UK." Compare Funerals' journey began in the UK as a brokerage, offering funeral plans from various British-based companies. Jack and Ben were savvy enough to spot that with the passing of cultural icon David Bowie and his election to have a direct cremation in 2016, a new trend was set in motion. Compare Funerals were quick to capitalise with their introduction of direct cremation services to Spain, from their offices in Sotogrande. "We were surprised that none of the existing providers offered direct cremations, a service increasingly preferred in the UK," Jack explained. "Since our arrival, we've seen that about 80-85% of our plans sold are for direct cremations." Other providers soon followed suit, a testament to Compare Funerals' foresight and innovation. "It's the sincerest form of flattery," Jack said. "We've blazed a trail in the funeral service industry in Spain, and we're proud of that." As Compare Funerals continues to grow, their commitment to affordable, transparent, and respectful services remains unwavering. The experience of their clients is always paramount, reflecting a new era in funeral care that honours both the departed and the living.
For more informaion or to view the range of plans on offer, please contact on +34 951 120 752 or visit www.comparefuneral.org
BUSINESS HAPPY OUTLOOK
Spain to lead the way in economic growth
THE European Commission says it expects Spain to be the fastest growing of the four major economies in the eurozone until 2025. Brussels' calculations predict that the Spanish economy will grow at a rate of 2.4% this year, slow down to 1.7% next year and re-
gain some pace in 2025 - a year in which GDP would rebound by 2%. The EU's forecasts place the country above the three great powers of the bloc: Germany, France
Cepsa’s low-cost move SPAIN’S second largest oil company has agreed to buy 220 automated low-cost petrol stations from Ballenoil for an undisclosed amount. It emerged in May that Cepsa was in advanced negotiations to acquire Ballenoil, with speculation that the deal could be worth between €200 million and €300 million. The oil giant will maintain the Ballenoil name, as well as its business model and current structure, which will more than double the Cepsa network to 500 stations by 2027. Ballenoil has a presence in 12 regions including Catalunya, the Valencian Community, Andalucia, Madrid, and Murcia. Cepsa, which is controlled by Abu Dhabi state investor Mubadala and US firm Carlyle Group, intends to expand its overall network to more than 2,000 stations across Spain and Portugal. Low-cost petrol stations have boomed over the last decade from 3,886 outlets in 2012 to 5,941 at the end of last year. The Cepsa deal to takeover Ballenoil is subject to regulatory approval.
Have YOU been the victim of alleged scam artist David Topping?
PAID FOR ADVERTORIAL CONTENT
By Alex Trelinski
Topping is suspected of running housing scams along the Costa del Sol. He is a British citizen, 70-yearsold and a Preston native who has a history of over 20 years in the Marbella area. Last seen with his wife, Brazilian national Miria, he has a search and capture warrant out on him from a Marbella court. If you have had any dealings with the pair, or know of their whereabouts, please contact us on the following email: getdavidtopping@gmail.com There is a reward for information that leads to their arrest.
and Italy in that order. The Commission's analysts point out that none of these three countries will manage to grow above 1.5% in the next two years. In fact, in the case of Germany, a small contraction of the economy is expected as early as this year. The Commission believes that household consumption will be the driving force behind the Spanish economy next year.
Power
As inflation eases - expected to fall to 3.4% in 2024 - households should regain some of the purchasing power lost during the economic crisis. In addition, it is expected that jobs will continue to be created – albeit at a slower pace than so far – which will also help to boost consumption. The Commission expects the unemployment rate to close at 12.1% this year and fall to 11.1% in two years' time.
November 29th December 12th 2023
Cash squeeze RESIDENTS in Malaga are feeling the squeeze as they shell out an extra €426 each month on essential expenses. A recent survey conducted by the Consumer Union in Malaga revealed that four in five Malaga city residents have had to trim their shopping lists due to soaring inflation. It adds up to €5,117 annually for an average family - despite a recent inflation report seeing it slow down to just 3.5%. The top culprits are rising costs in food (up by €136.43 per month), mortgage or rent (€123.10 more per month), and petrol (€83.57 more per month).
Rail sale
SPANISH rail network Renfe has slashed the price of a young person’s railcard from €50 to just €6. The sale applies to the ‘Mas Renfe Joven’ card and is available until December 21. It gives users 25% off travel on AVE, Larga Distancia, Avant, Media Distancia y Cercanías/Rodalies services. The card also offers 30% off AVE International trips between Spain and France. Available for people aged between 14-25, it gives users access to the Renfe loyalty scheme benefits.
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1 Thick slice (4) 4 Layered Italian dish (7) 9 Eyebrow darkeners (7) 10 German sea scourge (1-4) 11 Prepare for publication (4) 12 Saviour (8) 14 Permeable by liquids (6) 15 Capable of wounding (6) 19 Glove material clanks if disturbed (8) 21 Getaway spots (4) 23 Island in the Bay of Naples (5) 24 Burn unsteadily (7) 25 Good spot for a summit meeting? (7) 26 Deep black (4)
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Down 2 Taller and thinner (7) 3 Soft cheese (4) 4 One who pays the rent (6) 5 It’s at home on the range (8) 6 Brush a horse (5) 7 Go into (5) 8 Maintenance (6) 13 Bright light of day (8) 16 Thai capital (7) 17 Dr tees off - could be a very large bunker! (6) 18 Fish out of water (6) 19 Series of changes (5) 20 Pass into disuse (5) 22 Designed by Issigonis (4)
All solutions are on page 39
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ESTEPONA | 3 BEDS | 2 BATHS | 166 M2 REF: STRAND11009 | PRICE: 695,000€ ANNE ALICE SAARIKANGAS: +34 619 278 021 KATARIINA SALMELIN: +34 629 91 72 94
MARBELLA | 2 BEDS | 2 BATHS | 157 M2 REF: STRAND2690 | PRICE: 695,000€ SORIN MAILAT: +34 630 893 029
MIJAS | 4 BEDS | 3 BATHS | 311 M2 REF: STRANDP3001 | PRICE: 845,000€ ELINA RAJAMÄKI: +34 620 95 19 90 JOONAS LAITINEN: +34 672 094 818
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AFFORDABLE BUSINESS November 29th December 12th 2023 CONTACTS
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HEALTH
YOUNG BLOOD
ANDALUCIA is facing a potential crisis in its blood reserves as more than half of its current donors are set to reach retirement age within the next 25 years. The Junta is seeking young blood donors aged 18 to 30 to ensure a stable supply in the future. It has launched a campaign titled ‘Open your heart, donate blood,’ focusing on recruiting young donors. It also wants youngsters to spread the donation message on social media. The campaign is targeting a return to pre-pandemic donation levels, with encouraging signs already emerging in October's figures. In the first half of 2023, Andalusians made 145,437 blood donations, with the majority being whole blood donations. However, there was a 3.7% decrease compared to the same period last year. While the need for blood is constant, not everyone can donate. Potential donors must meet certain health and age criteria.
November 29th December 12th 2023
A LIDL ice cream has been taken off the shelves after being found to contain metal fragments. The Spanish Food Safety Agency (AESAN) issued an alert after German authorities identified metal shards in the frozen dairy product. The ice cream in question is ‘Bon Gelati Bourbon Vanilla Flavour’, produced by Lidl in Germany. Customers who bought the 2500ml
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Ice cream alert tubs from lots L3 275 A01 (expiry date: 21.09.2025) and L3 276 A01 (expiry date: 22.09.2025) should not consume the product. Lidl has confirmed the ice cream has been removed from all locations and is offering a full refund to anyone affected. No other Bon Gelati products were affected.
HANGOVER CLUE
Scientists may have finally found out why red wine can give you a headache
RESEARCHERS may have finally found the reason why red wine gives so many people headaches. The study, carried out by the University of California, has identified a naturally occurring chemical, which could be the culprit. It's thought quercetin, a flavanol found in red wine could interfere with someone’s ability to break down alcohol, causing headaches. The chemical gives fruit and veg, including grapes, their
Vape warning A NEW study has shown the effects of vaping could be just as harmful as traditional cigarettes. According to an investigation by the University of Lodz, in Poland, vaping could cause similar harm to traditional cigarettes, even if they contain no nicotine. It comes as Spanish scientists including Marcos Garcia Rueda, director of Andalucia’s Integrated Plan Against Tobacco (PITA), warned that users of vapes are not inhaling ‘vapour’ but an ‘aerosol’. The high quantities of heated chemicals alongside metal nanoparticles are inhaled and reach the lungs, lymph nodes and other organs with negative effects. Scientists in Poland found that vaping affects cells which protect the respiratory system from bacterial infections like bronchitis. When these cells are damaged, the body loses its first line of defense against many respiratory illnesses. The study also found that blood vessel cells are also affected by vaping, increasing the risk of cardiovascular disease.
Love at First Coat NAIL TECHNICIAN
By Yzabelle Bostyn
colour. Alone, quercetin is a powerful antioxidant and is sold in supplements at health food shops. However, the study published in Scientific Reports journal, has revealed that when combined with alcohol, quercetin can cause problems including nausea, headaches and flushes. According to Andrew Waterhouse, wine chemist: “When quercetin gets in your bloodstream, your body converts it to a different form called quercetin glucuronide.” “In that form, it blocks the metabolism of alcohol”, continued the professor emeritus with the UC Davis Department of Viticulture and Enology.
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Irritant
If alcohol is not processed, it can lead to a buildup of acetaldehyde, a well known ‘toxin, irritant and inflammatory substance’. This can provoke headaches and some people are particularly susceptible according to the report. Study co-author Morris Levin added: “We postulate that when susceptible people consume wine with even modest amounts of quercetin, they
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Are you suffering from anxiety? Are you depressed? Are your children having social issues? PERHAPS YOU NEED SOMEONE PROFESSIONAL TO TALK TO I HOPE WE CAN HELP. CALL US IN CONFIDENCE.
Contact Sarah May: 657 392 197
Calle Romeo 15 Urb La Paca, Alhaurín el Grande
OP Puzzle solutions Quick Crossword Across: 1 Slab, 4 Lasagne, 9 Pencils, 10 U-boat, 11 Edit, 12 Redeemer, 14 Porous, 15 Barbed, 19 Calfskin, 21 Inns, 23 Capri, 24 Flicker, 25 Everest, 26 Inky. Down: 2 Lankier, 3 Brie, 4 Lessee, 5 Saucepan, 6 Groom, 7 Enter, 8 Upkeep, 13 Sunshine, 16 Bangkok, 17 Desert, 18 Misfit, 19 Cycle, 20 Lapse, 22 Mini.
Change through relocation abroad can also add to mental health pressures and these life changes are never easy. Counselling and therapy has changed the lives of many. Getting in touch is the first step. Recognising that there is an issue is the first step on the road to recovery. Help is available through our confidential counselling service.
+34 664 666 252 info@counselling4anxiety.eu www.counselling4anxiety.eu
The
OLIVE PRESS
REuse REduce REcycle We use recycled paper
Woofing unbelievable
FINAL WORDS
A BIZARRE viral video captured in Valencia shows a woman walking a man like a dog as he humps a lamppost and lifts his leg as if to urinate on it.
Cashing in A GROUP of Spaniards holidaying in Venice, Italy, were left stunned after being served with a €70 bill for three beers, a coke and some snacks in the emblematic Saint Mark’s Square.
ANDALUCÍA
expat
voice in Spain
FREE Vol. 17 Issue 433 www.theolivepress.es November 29th - December 12th 2023 A LAMB that fell into a 15 metre deep well and was trapped for two days has been doubly lucky. First of all firefighters from Inca (Mallorca) swung into action to haul the creature out. And now the lamb’s owner has decided that it will not be slaughtered for a traditional Spanish Christmas dinner. The farmer says the wooly cutie will live to a ripe old age romping in fields as ‘it has proven to be an incredible fighter’.
Wheel of misfortune Police officer splurged €9,000 of seized cash on roulette table A POLICEMAN who gambled away thousands of euros of seized narco cash has avoided being kicked off the force. The Guardia Civil officer took €9,000 from a drugs raid before going on a marathon session at an Alicante casino. However the agent had an
By Alex Trelinski
unlucky day and lost all the money on the roulette table. The cash had been seized during an anti-drug operation in Murcia. During a search in the ear-
Bone clue RESEARCHERS in Badajoz have uncovered evidence of mass animal sacrifice rituals from around 2,500 years ago, recovering 6,700 bones from dogs, horses, cattle and pigs.
Your
Ends well
Purrfect tale
ly hours, the officer found 12 bags of marijuana and €9,000 in small bills. The evidence remained in his custody and he was due to deliver it to a judge later that day. Instead he headed to a gambling hall with the money-
A LONG-LOST moggy is to make a 6,000 kilometre journey to Spain after she was found 10 years after going missing. American couple Richard and Maria Price had given up on ever being reunited with their beloved Mimi years ago after she went missing in New York. They had since moved to Valencia when they received a long-distance call from their home city. An animal sanctuary had picked up Mimi, and as she was microchipped they were able to trace the Prices.
where he spent more than eight hours attempting to ‘enrich’ himself on the roulette table but lost it all. Immediately after the session, he handed over the confiscated drugs to his colleagues but was arrested on suspicion of embezzling public funds. Prosecutors were seeking one year and 11 months in jail but both parties agreed to a deal of five months behind bars and a 10-month ban from the force. It means he can re-join the police once his suspension is over. The courts took into consideration that he had returned the money before sentencing and that he had suffered ‘a loss of control due to his gambling addiction’.
Cash grab YOU could nip along to your local hypermarket and pick up a towel for €20. Or you could splash out €700 for a towel skirt. Balenciaga has just revealed its latest creation: a dark grey terry towel worn as a unisex skirt. What apparently sets this garment apart from any other grey bath towel is the Balenciaga logo embroidered on the front of the skirt and the fact that it can only be dry cleaned.