A ride to the light-side
TIME TO TAKE A TRIP TO THE COSTA DE LA LUZ
LABOUR OF LOVE
THE United Kingdom’s new foreign minister has reaffirmed the Labour government in London will defend Gibraltar’s sovereignty.
David Lammy said that the UK would ‘double lock’ British sovereignty in a phone call with Chief Minister Fabian Picardo.
Lammy also agreed to restart the negotiations over a Brexit deal with Spain’s foreign minister, Jose Manuel Albares, ‘as soon as possible.’
They agreed to meet on the sidelines of this week’s NATO summit in Washington to further advance the negotiations.
Gibraltar’s chief minister, meanwhile, was optimistic that the ‘ideological solidarity’ between the socialist governments in London, Madrid and Gibraltar - for the first time ever - ‘will no doubt help us in our work.’
‘Win-win-win’
The UK’s ambassador to Spain, Hugh Elliot, echoed these words, stating that an agreement between the two countries is expected to be finalised ‘very soon’.
He predicted that the agreement would be a ‘win-win-win’ for all parties involved, which would create the right environment for further agreements concerning Gibraltar.
Elliot also confirmed that there would likely be meetings between Spanish Prime Minister Pedro Sanchez and British Prime Minister Keir Starmer, as well as the two countries’ defence ministers.
If the meeting does not take place in Washington, it will probably occur in the UK, during the European Political Community Meeting next week.
EXCLUSIVE
Gibraltar’s Gambling Commissioner tells the Olive Press there was no conflict of interest in his decision not to investigate maligned gaming company Mansion
5
Calentmmm
A wide selection of food stalls were set up at the Piazza, the Boulevard and Campion Park showcasing food from many cultures, drinks and crafts. On offer were local dishes, including Calentita and Torta de Acelgas, as well as varied cuisines from India, Venezuela and the Caribbean to name a few. The name ‘Calentita’ comes from a simple Gibraltarian dish made with chickpea flour, water, salt, and pepper.
Fabian: ‘I was not bragging or showing off about buying a vintage Porsche’
BACK-FIRED
Government’s rapid U-turn after £520 car pollution tax went down like a lead balloon
THE Chief Minister’s admission he would have to pay a new £520 pollution levy after buying an old Porsche to ‘cheer himself up’ backfired badly.
The levy, which would apply to owners of vehicles aged over 10 years, created a firestorm among Gibraltarians.
The backlash swiftly forced Fabian Picardo into an embarrassing U-turn just two hours after announcing the policy. It came when he attempted to
show solidarity with those who would have to pay the bill, which was part of the 2024 Budget.
“I bought myself a car because of my personal circumstances,” he told Radio Gibraltar, after the tax became public.
“I wanted to cheer myself up, and I’ve got a Porsche that's older than 10 years old. I'm going to pay the levy too.”
However, over 500 protestors almost immediately gathered outside Number Six, forcing officers
from the Royal Gibraltar Police to temporarily close Main Street.
Demonstrators chanted ‘Picardo Out!’, beeped horns and blocked pathways in a display of discontent unseen on the Rock for years.
“It doesn’t make any sense, especially for those
told GBC News
“If they can’t afford to buy a new car every 10 years, what are they going to do? They’re going to have to fork out the money.”
“We’re not tone deaf - we’re clear that when we got something wrong, we have to change it and we got it wrong,” he said.
being affected, which are the low-income households,” one protester
“Elderly people, they only use their car once or twice to go and do shopping, see a family relative. Why should they have to pay £520?”
In his closing Budget address, Picardo admitted the pollution levy had been a misstep and that his ‘Porsche’ comment had been a ‘mistake.’
Mistake
“I made a mistake because people have interpreted that my seeking to show this levy would apply to me also as a driver has suggested bragging or showing off.
“Nothing could be further from the truth.”
Killer photos
A SPANISH man aged 43 was killed by an elephant when he got out of his car to take photos of a herd of the animals in South Africa’s Pilanesberg National Park & Game Reserve.
First blood
SIX people were injured on the first day of Pamplona’s running of the bulls festival, with one man sustaining a serious head injury.
Blood hands
A MAN has been arrested in Malaga for trafficking ‘blood diamonds’ and ‘laundering’ the illicit jewels, mined by slaves in Sierra Leone, through a business he ran.
Derelict dad
A BRITISH man, 38, locked his two daughters, 1 and 7, in a car while he went to ‘get a haircut’ in Tenerife. When police caught up with him, he denied being their father and is now on the run.
A FAMILY-LED gang that allegedly processed cocaine imported from Colombia at clandestine laboratories in Fuengirola and Ciudad Real has been brought down by authorities
the Policia Nacional.
Seven simultaneous raids were carried out in the Madrid, Malaga, and Ciudad Real areas.
Nine people have been arrested following a year-long joint operation between the Guardia Civil and
GOTCHA
Wanted Scottish ‘rapist’ is arrested while working out on a Malaga beach
A BRITISH fugitive wanted for sex crimes in the UK has been arrested while exercising on Nerja beach. Scotsman James Clacher, 55, was dramatically cuffed by plain-clothed cops and has since been extradited to the UK to face justice.
KIDS’ SEX ALERT Coke labs closed
By Laurence Dollimore
Video footage shows the muscular and tattooed suspect using a beach gym before being pulled to the ground by multiple agents. He is accused of sexually as-
A SHOCKING three out of four children in Spain have suffered exposure to unwanted online sexual content. The conclusion comes after research carried out by the Guardia Civil and the Mutua foundation. The study spoke to 2,000 children and 1,000 parents, with two-thirds of youngsters saying they’ve received unwanted sexual harass -
The crew are accused of importing large quantities of cocaine into Spain - hidden in products such as coffee, cocoa, fruit or charcoal shipped in from Colombia.
The goods were transferred to the laboratories with ‘cooks’ travelling from Madrid to extract the cocaine and process it for distribution with the help of sophisticated machines. The gang include two business owners in the Ciudad Real area who sold the final product and laundered the profits.
BAD FLEX: Clacher was tackled while working out on beach bars
saulting two women after meeting them on a dating app. According to police, he fled lowing day.
ment or content. This included insistent messaging to meet up for an intimate relationship; being a victim of unwanted sexual comments; and being sent pornographic content.
The most vulnerable age group is youngsters aged between 13 and 15 years, with 30% of victims needing to see a psychologist.
the UK in 2022 after faking being abducted. The gym boss was last seen in Airdrie with his car found at the Loch Long car park in Argyll, the fol-
The Brit was traced to Nerja by the UK's National Crime Agency (NCA), who received a tip off that he was hiding among the expat community.
The force, often dubbed Britain's FBI, contacted the Guardia Civil who launched an operation to track down the fugitive, who was known to love sports. He was well integrated and matched the descriptionalthough using a different name.
They began surveillance and sent back images to the UK authorities, who confirmed his identity and that he was ‘dangerous’.
Away day thieving
PROFESSIONAL pickpockets are going on awaydays from Sevilla to Cadiz to target tourists.
According to police sources, the arrival of cruise ships, big events, and even anti-tourism protests have attracted the groups.
Police recommend people take care of their belongings at all times and be wary of people offering ‘help’ for such things as imaginary ice cream stains.
Bum deal
A MAN has been shot in the buttocks in the latest Costa del Sol shooting.
The victim, a man of Moroccan descent, was rushed to hospital after the Mijas attack.
He claimed he was the victim of mistaken identity, however cops are probing all possibilities.
It was the second shooting in Mijas in a week, following on from over half a dozen in Marbella this year so far.
Bright and talented
HE may be one of the breakout stars of Euro 2024, but Lamine Yamal’s prodigious footballing talent can’t excuse him from the rigour and pressure of school exams. Thankfully for the 16-year old,
who became the youngest ever player at a European Championship, has passed his fourth ESO exam - the equivalent of GCSEs - whilst in Germany with the Spain squad.
The Barcelona-born starlet had taken to revision classes in between training sessions and matches in order to prepare for the tests, and it seems the hard work paid off after it was revealed that Yamal passed the assessments with flying colours.
BENICASSIM BECKONS
It’s time to party at Spain’ biggest music festival
By Alex Trelinski
SPAIN'S biggest partythe Festival Internacional de Benicassim - kicks off four days of top musical entertainment on July 18.
Located in the east coast resort 100 kms north of Valencia, the weekend festival brings in visitors from around Spain and Europe and is regarded as one of the best on the planet!
The event is also very popular with UK music fans due to its seaside location and the guarantee of good weather.
This year's International acts include regular visitors to the country, the Black Eyed Peas, as well as the Libertines, Jess Glynne, and UK Eurovision
ELLE of a night
EVA Longoria sizzled at the 2024 ELLE Gourmet Awards in Madrid.
The Desperate Housewives star stole the show with her stunning look and infectious charm.
runner-up Sam Ryder, The festival focuses mainly on pop, rock, and electronica artists, as well as featuring short films, fashion shows, and art.
FORMER Liverpool manager Jurgen Klopp says he’s enjoying life and retirement in Mallorca, when he spoke to reporters at a pre-Wimbledon tennis tournament.
Klopp - donning a German football shirt - said he’s been playing a lot of padel tennis since moving to the island with wife Ulla.
He revealed to ESPN reporter Agos Larocca that he has been working on an 'ecological' revamp of his €4m Santa Ponsa villa with a total
Longoria arrived at the event, held at the Italian Embassy, in a black gown that left little to the imagination.
The figure-hugging dress accentuated her curves, while the plunging neckline added a touch of Hollywood glamour.
As always, Longoria's beaming smile was her best accessory.
It also attracts celebrity visitors like Prime Minister, Pedro Sanchez, and his wife Begoña Gomez, who attended in 2018 to see The Killers.
The first event was staged in 1995 and is notable for having live music running well
Past performers at Spain's answer to Glastonbury have included The Killers, Blur, Oasis, The Pet Shop Boys, Lou Reed, The Stone Roses, Madness and Bastille.
Klopp happy
rebuild covering 5,000 m2. When asked what he liked about the island he said: “Where can I start? I like everything about it, to be honest, but I'm not long enough here yet. We try to figure out what we like the most.'
They are staying in 'temporary' accommodation, courtesy of the five-star Kimpton Aysla Hotel in the same area.
into the night with a schedule running between 5pm and 5am!
It has three main stages, Las Palmas, Visa, and South Beach Dance, with capacities of approximately 30,000, 15,000 and 8,000, respectively.
A typical attendance for the festival clocks up around 180,000 visitors.
Festival goers who have purchased multi-day passes can camp for up to nine days starting the Monday before and ending the Tuesday after the festival finishes two days earlier.
It's famous for attracting a young, party-oriented crowd and plenty of fun is promised for people of all ages.
PLAN HATCHED
TWO chicks fathered by lockdown star Louis the osprey will be flown from Scotland to Spain after fears for his well being.
The Woodland Trust has made the ‘tough’ decision to remove the chicks from their Loch Arkaig Pine Forest nest after realising ‘something was wrong’ with their father, who appears to be struggling to provide food.
According to the wildlife charity, Louis has not been fishing frequently enough to give the chicks a good chance of survival.
It is thought this could be due to difficult fishing conditions in the area. Now, alongside 10 other chicks, they will be moved to Spain to give them the ‘best chance’ in the Pego-Oliva Marsh Natural Park, near Alicante. Louis became a lockdown star after a live nest camera clocked 400,000 views.
Ospreys were extinct in Spain until they were reintroduced in 2003 using Scottish birds.
P LIVE RESS The
Bookworm paradise Conflict resolution
THIS year’s Gibunco Gibraltar Literary Festival will take place from November 11th to 17th 2024.
Last year’s festival was particularly memorable as HRH Princess Anne attended, as did former UK Prime Minister Theresa May, Mary Berry of The Great British Bake Off fame, and Esmie Young from The Great British Sewing Bee
This year’s lineup will continue to feature authors from fields such as education, science, culinary arts and will include current affairs and personal experiences.
The week-long event will be merging with the popular Literature Week so local authors will be featured alongside international guests.
ROCKY TIMES
Gibraltar is facing calls for a Conflicts of Interest Act as the McGrail Inquiry’s 10-week pubic examination into the Rock’s inner workings draws to a close
THE Government of Gibraltar is facing calls to create new legislation to manage conflicts of interests among the Rock’s key players. It was one of the recommendations made by former Commissioner of Police Ian McGrail’s legal team in their closing submissions to the McGrail Inquiry last month. They have proposed a clear framework for ‘identifying, managing, and mitigating conflicts of interest among public officials’.
Its purpose would be to ‘mini-
Attention!
GIBRALTAR has been visited by the top brass.
General Sir James Hockenhull, Commander of UK Strategic Command, and Dr. Sam Griffiths, the newly appointed Director of Overseas Bases arrived to meet personnel stationed on the Rock.
The packed agenda included official meetings with key figures including Lieutenant General Sir Ben Bathurst, the Governor of Gibraltar, and Fabian Picardo, the Chief Minister. They also met with Commodore Tom Guy, Commander British Forces Gibraltar.
By Walter Finch
By Walter Finch
mise the possibility of conflicts arising between the private interests and public duties of public office holders and provide for the resolution of those conflicts in the public interest should they arise.’
Based on Canada’s 2006 Conflict of Interest Act, it would require public officials to disclose all their personal and financial interests - including those of family members. It would also limit public offi-
cials’ employment and lobbying activities for a certain period after leaving office in order to put a stop to the ‘revolving door’ phenomenon.
An independent Conflict of Interest Commissioner would be tasked with ensuring Gibraltar’s movers and shakers comply with the new rules, conducting investigations and applying penalties where necessary.
The proposed rules would be relevant to a number of public officials who were caught up in ‘Operation Delhi’, the police investigation that lay at the heart of the McGrail inquiry.
They would include Caine Sanchez, the secretary to the Deputy Chief Minister, and Aaron Chipol, the CEO of Gibraltar’s Borders and Coast Guard. Not forgetting the Chief Minister and Attorney General.
PROFESSOR John Cortes officially launched the 2024 Calpe Conference at the University of Gibraltar last week.
The meeting has been organised by the Gibraltar National Museum and brings in specialist, high profile, researchers in the field of ecology, climate change and conservation.
The theme of the conference – Islands in the Sun – examines the impacts of climate change and human activities on the Azores, Madeira,
GIBRALTAR’s GDP grew in the last year at breakneck speeds more associated with emerging markets.
During Fabian Picardo's budget speech he announced the territory’s GDP had grown by nearly 6% to £2.9 billioncomparable to India’s stratospheric growth.
Record
Personal income tax is set to be cut by 1%, while corporation tax inches up to 15% - but still some way short of Spain’s rate of 25%.
He added that the public debt to GDP ratio had fallen to 23%, substantially better off than the UK’s ratio of 85%, or Spain’s more worrying 96%. The Rock has produced a record number of jobs at 31,523, while public sector jobs grew by 3%, and average earnings increased by 5.7% to £36,000. The government squabbled with the opposition in typical fashion over whether the financial year had produced a budget surplus or not.
Islands in the Sun
the Canaries and Cabo Verde and the continental shelf of the Atlantic coast of SW Iberia, including Gibraltar.
The conference continues until Saturday after which speakers will be given a field trip on Sunday that will include a visit to the Gorham’s Cave Complex UNESCO World Heritage Site.
GIBRALTAR’S Gambling Commissioner has defended himself over his decision not to open an investigation into the now-defunct gaming company Mansion Group. It comes after the Olive Press first reported sensational allegations against one of the Rock’s largest gaming companies by exCEO, Karel Manasco, 43. Manasco alleged the firm defrauded dozens of governments around the world from its Gibraltar HQ between 2011 and 2021. The list of offences include operating in countries without appropriate licences, circumventing regulations, dodging taxes, and running untraceable companies where online gambling is illegal.
We revealed the allegations exclusively during an ongoing legal battle between the remnants of Mansion and Manasco at Gibraltar Su-
NO CONFLICT OF INTEREST
Gibraltar’s Gambling Commissioner tells the Olive Press why he didn’t act over Mansion allegations
By Walter Finch
preme Court. It led to Gambling Commissioner Andrew Lyman facing questions over his inaction when alerted to the allegations in November 2023.
However, in an email to the Olive Press, Lyman insisted Manasco’s lawyers failed to provide him with the neces-
Talking birds
GIBRALTARIAN Dr Laurence Barea, now based in New Zealand, will be hosting a special museum lecture on his work on bird species.
Dr. Barea's passion for nature, especially birds, began in Gibraltar in the late 1970s and has led him on a remarkable journey of research and conservation efforts.
With a background in ecology and extensive experience working with endangered species, Dr Barea currently serves as the Principal Ecology Advisor for the New Zealand Department of Conservation.
The free lecture, will be on Tuesday, July 16 at 7 pm at the John Mackintosh Hall.
sary evidence to investigate.
He also cast doubt on his ‘legal standing’ to probe a firm that had already surrendered its licence.
The Asian-owned company mysteriously closed all its online gambling platforms and wound itself down in 2023.
The decision to shut down came as it was suing its former CEO in Gibraltar.
Mansion Group accused
Manasco of taking huge bonuses while splashing company money on luxury cars and expensive watches. The firm won a worldwide freezing order against him in 2023.
Lyman claimed Manasco’s legal team were using him to boost their case.
“The allegations made were high level, ambiguous and some of the allegations were inconsistent with known facts,” the former regulations chief at William Hill told us.
Unrelated
“Some of the allegations appeared to be unrelated to this jurisdiction [Gibraltar] and some well before the time I was appointed as Gambling Commissioner in 2018.”
He also dismissed suspicions that Mansion Group wound itself down in order to ‘avoid any investigation.’
He added: “As I understand it, the decision to close Mansion in Gibraltar was for commercial reasons.
“It was an orderly wind down of the company which was signalled in advance to me as Regulator.”
He went on to deny he had a conflict of interest given the gambling minister of the time, Albert Isola, was a senior partner in Isolas, the law firm representing Mansion Group.
He also pointed out he had been behind an investigation that saw Mansion fined £850,000 for ‘anti money laundering failings’ in 2020.
“I recognise that a conflict of interest is being alleged by the media between the
former Minister and Isolas law firm.
“What I can say is that the former minister never sought to influence the outcome of the money laundering investigation,” he added.
The news comes as the Gibraltar government puts the final touches on a new Gambling Bill expected to go before Parliament in the autumn.
Threat
Speaking at the annual KPMG Gibraltar eSummit, Nigel Feetham, the Minister for Justice, Trade and Industry, said they are currently listening to ‘industry feedback.’
But he warned: “One threat to the reputation of Gibraltar are the risks that arise from marketing and other similar activities carried out that associate Gibraltar with online gambling that takes place elsewhere, without our regulator having any handle on the gambling activity.”
Voted
in Spain
A campaigning, community newspaper, the Olive Press represents the huge expatriate community in Spain with an estimated readership, including the websites, of more than two million people a month.
OPINION
Sea Change!
THE tone of this year’s Black Flag report (right) is a sea change in the right direction.
With the ravages of Spain’s coastline due to incompetence and inaction, Spain’s leading green group Ecologistas en Accion is pulling no punches. The hard-hitting report details how time and time again local politicians and even regional bodies are blatantly violating environmental laws. Developments are being approved and blind eyes are being paid to barbarities and abuses. In clear infringements of Spanish and European laws, the Canary Islands are allowing four new mega resorts.
This from a political class which flaunts its multi-billion dollar profits while more than 35% of the Canaries population is ‘at risk of poverty’ and the unemployment rate sits at 20%.
It’s little different in Andalucia, where the Junta has sanctioned a beach bar in Fuengirola that grossly violates regulations and threatens the integrity of the coast.
Meanwhile, in Tarifa and Vejer, the battlelines are being drawn in the sand as a phalanx of wealthy developers continue to sniff around for coastal land to raze.
In Valencia the situation is worse, while the Balearics fare no better.
The politicians are committing harakiri on what is left of this country’s coastline.
Already being strangled by a collar of concrete, they continue to court the deep pockets of, mostly, foreign investors, who won’t think twice about carving up what’s left before jumping on their private planes elsewhere.
The majority of developments are not in the interests of the Spanish population and it’s hard not to believe that plenty of backhanders are kicking around.
Madrid must get a grip on the unhealthy relationship between business and politics which has been flourishing in plain sight at the municipal level for years.
Spain’s coasts have a limit. Saving what’s left is vital for the future of the country.
Jon Clarke, jon@theolivepress.es
Dilip Kuner dilip@theolivepress.es
Walter Finch walter@theolivepress.es
Yzabelle Bostyn yzabelle@theolivepress.es
Simon Hunter simon@theolivepress.es
Alex Trelinski alex@theolivepress.es
Ben Pawlowski ben@theolivepress.es
‘SUICIDAL RACE’
THE latest Blue Flag report offered a dazzling verdict on Spain’s beaches. The global organisation created a map that blanketed the country’s coastlines in blue dots, indicating beautiful clean beaches with excellent water quality, compliance with coastal laws, and services such as lifeguards and toilets.
Out of the 694 beaches that applied for the cherished blue flag, the group merrily handed them to 638 – an approval rate of 91%.
However, an alternative report from local environmental group Ecologists in Action offers a dark er vision of the health of Spain’s beaches.
By Walter Finch
flag,” Ecologists in Action coordinator Rafael Yus-Ramos (below left) told the Olive Press
“But we can’t give a black flag to every beach that deserved one because otherwise we would have ended up with too many to count.”
The group’s Black Flags report, re leased in June, gave out 48 black flags around the country, including 10 in Andalucia, six in Valencia, two in the Balearics and four in the Canary Islands.
But in reality the num ber should have been even higher.
“Many of the beach es that received a blue flag actually should get a black
The report comes in a year when anti-tourism protests have broken out in hotspots across Spain, ‘excessive’ seafront developments have been approved in the Canary Islands and Malaga, and 26 tonnes of plastic pellets were washed overboard a container ship into the sea off the coast of Cantabria.
The trend causing the most harm to Spain’s beaches, however, is ‘the touristification and urbanisation of our coastlines’, according to the environmental group.
The Canary Islands come in for keen criticism for leaving an ecological footprint 27 times larger than their landmass.
Yet the villains are not the tourists occupying the hotels and Airbnbs but the political class,
Snowflakes!
theolivepress.es
Google and Facebook censor Olive Press stories about rape and crucifixes for fear of ‘offending’ users
IT’S a sad day for the news industry when one cannot even report on serious crimes without being reported for ‘offensive’ content.
That is what has happened to the Olive Press over the past for months, with Google warning that some of our stories are too risque to appear on the search engine. These included the conviction of a rapist in Gibraltar, a respected Spanish urologist warning of the effects of smoking on men’s penises and - incredibly - a story about crucifixes being stolen from cemeteries in Spain.
But it’s not just Google trying to censor the news landscape, with Face-
book also barraging us with warnings over the most basic of stories. These included all of the above plus plans by Spain to bring in restrictions on accessing online porn.
Unfortunately, Facebook and especially Google still have a stranglehold over the news industry.
who ‘flaunt multi-billion dollar profits while more than 35% of the population is at risk of poverty and a 20% unemployment rate.’
In Tenerife, development has restarted on two hotels, Hotel La Tejita and Hotel Cuna del Alma, which were stopped for environmental violations.
And in Fuerteventura a golf course and a wellness centre with more than 2,000 beds each have both been approved.
“These are just a few examples, among many,” the report states, “that demonstrate the suicidal race that our leaders are betting on which exclusively benefits business interests.”
But the Black Flags report saves some of its strongest criticism for the Costa del Sol, which receives two of the unwanted awards.
A number of beach bars have been approved despite receiving negative reports for environmental law violations, the report claims.
Ecologists in Action have pointed the finger at the Junta for ignoring the damning reports and ploughing ahead with development regardless.
In the most shocking case, it gave out a licence to build Bikini Beach Club at the foot of the Fuengirola castle.
Every newspaper in the world remains dependent on their articles being served to the billions of people
who use the tech giants daily.
Google, in particular, can make or break a news site, as placing its articles on its ‘discovery’ page or its ‘news’ section can bring in millions of hits.
But what does it say about the future of journalism if important stories about sex crimes and intimate health issues are essentially being blocked?
It runs the risk of newspapers reporting less and less on such topics for fear of losing favour with Google and Meta (the owner of Facebook). This will reduce the quality of news reporting and it is the reader who loses out in the end.
Google’s power over the media is one
for
of the reasons many sites - including the Olive Press - have introduced subscription paywalls.
With a guaranteed monthly or annual income from loyal readers, websites can continue to report the news without having to adhere to arbitrary rules that seem to change daily.
Plus, they will eventually steer away from the disliked ‘clickbait’ articles once they are no longer so reliant on advertising income generated by clicks.
If you’re an avid reader of news sites and believe that proper journalism is worth safeguarding, support your favourite newspapers either via a donation or subscription.
LIGHT YEARS AWAY!
The Olive Press takes a tour of some of the Costa de la Luz’s under-the-radar spots, as the largely unheralded coastal gem girds itself for discovery by British tourists
PERCHED upon the highest point in Chiclana de la Frontera sits the round cupola of the Ermita de Santa Ana.
The church is located on one of the fabled ‘seven magical spots’ in the sprawling town, lodged among salty marshlands just south of Cadiz.
In the 9th century, long before the chapel was built in 1733, it was an old watch tower from where the town’s defenders scanned the horizon. They were looking for the telltale sight of the dreaded Viking longboat.
Now, over a thousand years later, Chiclana is no longer a frontier town – but the coast it used to guard is preparing itself for another invasion from the north… from tourists!
The Costa de la Luz stretches from Tarifa in Spain’s most southern point, through the sparkling coastal fortress city of Cadiz, and up into
By Walter Finch Huelva.
It is a beautiful coastline dotted with stunning towns, like Vejer de la Frontera and Zahara de los Atunes, largely unscathed from the ill effects of mass tourism.
By flying under the international tourism radar, the Costa de la Luz has managed to dodge the fate of neighbours Sevilla and Malaga, where huge tourist demand has sent the cost of living spiralling.
So the recent announcement by airline Jet2 to open a raft of new routes to nearby Jerez has
Continues on next page
THE COAST WITH THE MOST
THE Costa de la Luz officially stretches for around 200kms all the way from Tarifa up into Huelva and to the border with Portugal. Split in two by the stunning Donana national park, the coastline also
includes the so-called 'sherry triangle' or 'Cadiz coast' towns of Sanlucar de Barrameda, Rota, Chipiona and El Puerto de Santa Maria. It also includes the cities of Cadiz and Huelva.
THE HIDDEN COSTA
From front page
been met with some trepidation.
The new routes, from Manchester, Leeds and Birmingham, could see 30,000 Brits arrive each week from next summer. This for a region that has - until now - barely registered on the British tourist’s holiday itinerary.
Yes, of course, a few savvy travellers know of the charms of Vejer, Conil and, of course, Tarifa, particularly the ones who like watersports and wind, but most expats who live on the nearby Costa del Sol haven’t even ventured this way.
Which means that this stunning stretch of coastline has an extraordinary number of largely unspoilt gems to discover.
Tasked with exploring a less visited part of the coastline and finding some new hidden spots, I was delighted that in late June, the sight of a foreigner was vanishingly rare.
Chiclana’s eight kilometres of pristine beaches, for example, were populated almost exclusively by Spaniards enjoying the serene Atlantic swells. While the winery and salt mine tours were similarly taken up by their fellow compatriots, mostly
tourists from Sevilla and other inland regions.
In the town itself, the narrow streets of the historic centre are full of interesting remnants of the Moorish era, such as the Arco Torre del Reloj, and littered with terraces offering cañas and tapas.
In Taperia La Flamenca, the beaming waitresses were all local lasses who live nearby. When asked what was the best thing about town, the three girls all laughed and said: us!
“I love the people here, the atmosphere of Chiclana,” said one. “All my friends and family are here – why would I want to move to Sevilla or Madrid?” It’s a refreshingly different reality from, say, the Costa del Sol, where the locals are increasingly pushed out of their own towns by Airbnb apartments and the influx of wealthy foreigners.
Just a 15 minute drive north is interesting San Fernando, an old naval shipyard in the hazy shadow of Cadiz’s bridges and container cranes.
It is another exquisite Spanish pueblo, populated with trendy bars that were active even before the buzz of the nightlife came out to play.
The walkable, slug-shaped town is well-connected to Cadiz and Jerez by a commendable tram system.
In its glory days, it served an important role in Spanish history, being the site of the first Spanish parliament, known as the Cortes de Cadiz.
The early 19th century was a period when Spain
flirted with democracy - even before the traditional European democracies of Britain and France.
San Fernando is also strategically located on the Isla de Leon, being connected to the mainland only by a parade of bridges.
It’s this island that lent its name to San Fernando’s most famous son - flamenco
HERE LIES HERCULES!
The tiny island of Sancti-Petri, off Chiclana, has a 17th century castle, which Romans believed was built on top of Hercules’ burial site.
The mythical hero is believed to have founded nearby Cadiz city and the Phonecians built a temple to their god Melqart on the island.
The Romans later replaced the structure with a temple dedicated to Hercules, who they believed
singer Camaron de la Isla (above), which translates as ‘Shrimp from the Island’.
Camaron was born into a poor neighbourhood, where he shared a single room with his entire family who in turn shared one bathroom with another six families.
Today his house has been transformed into a shrine to the man who put San Fernando on the map, and his outsized influence on bringing flamenco music into the mainstream.
While some fans were clearly mesmerised, renovations have turned the old abode into a lifeless white adobe box, completely robbing it of what it must have been like in Camaron’s childhood in the 1950s.
On the other side of Cadiz but still within its gravitational pull lies another naval town, but this one very much active.
Rota is home to several kilometres of white sandy beaches, chiringuitos and restaurants – and an enormous American naval base larger than the town itself.
was buried there.
Deemed strategically significant, the castle became a military fortress until its decommission in 1918.
The historic site can be reached by ferry from Sancti-Petri marina or by kayak if you’re feeling adventurous and once there you will find a bar with panoramic sea views.
46, told the Olive Press. “They behave very wellthey are even politer and more respectful than the Spanish.”
Maria, who runs the Great Day Coffee Diner offering American breakfasts, milkshakes and waffles, left Rota for the US when she was 19.
After nearly 20 years driving an 18-wheeler truck around the American continent, she is back to help care for her elderly mother.
I soon found myself talking to a young American ensign, who identified himself as ‘Garcia’, and told me his destroyer had just returned from a tour of the Middle East and Israel - ‘nothing happened
It served an important role, being first Spanish parliament site
Somewhat incongruous on the tranquil ‘coast of light’, Naval Station Rota – as the US military refers to it – is home to some seriously impressive firepower belonging to the US 6th Fleet.
Four American Aegis destroyers are permanently stationed at the base, tasked with protecting south-western Europe from missile attacks.
And the Americans are certainly not seen locally as an unwelcome occupying force, but a valued part of the community, which at times feels like Costa Americana.
Among a coast almost devoid of foreigners in the summer, the twang of American-accented English stands out almost as much as the American-style diners and Irish bars.
“We love the Americans here,” Maria Almagro,
though.’
“When the big ships come in to restock, like the aircraft carriers, all the Americans hit the town to go out and party,” explained Maria.
“And sometimes they send an Uber to pick up a huge order for 40 people in the base.”
And she continued:
“There’s literally never any trouble. They’re good people. And us Spanish, we love Americans. Because they come with money.”
A short hop away lies Chipiona, a charming workday beach town, that would find itself completely under water should a tsunami hit.
This was graphically illustrated by the curious ‘What to do in case of a tsunami signs’ that littered the beachfront.
The seemingly fanciful signs – and evacuation plan they laid out – were erected in preparation for last November’s tsunami drill, which crowned Chipiona as Spain’s first ‘tsunami-ready community’.
And while the last major mega wave to hit Spain came nearly 300 years ago during the 1755 earthquake which wiped out Lisbon, the region is not so far from the boundary between the Eurasian and African tectonic plates. Some might even say it’s due another one.
While no tsunamis struck as the Olive Press enjoyed the town’s hospitality, a series of freak rain squalls – almost unheard of in late June – caused their own aquatic chaos.
The unseasonal watering caused the town’s chefs to dash out into the marshes to hunt for something that would never usually be on the menu in summer.
So at night, it was peculiar to see hasty handmade signs declaring ‘WE HAVE SNAILS’.
The Olive Press could not turn down the opportunity to try such a rare delicacy at the Pide Y Come restaurant. It was a charming eatery run by local couple Paco, 32, and Caridad, 29, who met one day while out walking their dogs. Paco explained that the sauce was not made from garlic, but from basil,
cumin, and – as he took a breath to list the rest of the ingredients, he suddenly closed his mouth and took on a sly smile.
He was not about to reveal the secret family recipe to a nosy journalist.
The menu was full of such unique offerings, the ingredients of which the couple would sooner die than give up, including ‘Aurora’s meatballs’ – Aurora being Caridad’s grandmother.
When told that they could perhaps expect a lot more British and foreign tourists in future summers, the pair shrugged and said it could ‘only be a good thing’.
RECIPE FOR SUCCESS
THE Costa de la Luz’s celi- brated culinary prowess is down to the local surround- ings, which produce some of the best quality ingredients in the world.
The obvious examples are sherry, fish and the won- derful beef from the classic brown ‘retinto’ cows, which you often see wandering around in the hills and even on the beaches.
Of course the amazing ‘almadraba’ bluefin tuna (top), caught nearby (above), is spec- tacularly good and the vegetables avail- able are also of a high quality, particularly from Conil.
Another reason is the type of tourists who visit the coast, which has seen a distinctly more refined crowd than its nearby rivals on the Costa del Sol. They demand quality and are prepared to spend to get it.
TARIFA is famous for its wind, which draws in many visitors looking to participate in the kite surfing scene.
But its beaches are more than just a place to practise tricks in the water: the ankle-deep white sand and, thankfully even, some sheltered spots, ensure there’s something for everyone along the 35-km coastline.
Of course, it’s useful to have a car. But can you enjoy a beach holiday here without one? Regina Roberts investigates on foot.
PLAYA CHICA
Located right next to Tarifa old town, Playa Chica (right) separates the Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean Sea.
Just 10 minutes walk to get there from the heart of the old town, it is small and can get a bit crowded at certain times of day, not to mention noisy.
But on the plus side there was no strong wind, which meant it was perfect for swimming and the water was calm and clear with no kitesurfers.
The only beachfront restaurant is El Chiringuito Lounge Beach, and due to its location, it’s a little pricier than other places in town.
Playa Chica is ideal for those wanting to relax on the beach with friends but still feel the lively atmosphere of Tarifa.
PLAYA DE LOS LANCES
Playa de los Lances (left) spans more than seven kilometres and is separated by the Rio Jara, making it an expansive beach that never feels too crowded.
While also close to the old town, the beach was a lot emptier and less overwhelming with a nice change of pace and seagulls in the sky.
It’s more windy, but was not too exposed and during the middle of the day, the wind is actually advantageous as the breeze offers reprieve from the heat.
The water at this end is not as busy with kite surfers, making it perfect for those just looking to go for a swim.
Father up on the northern part is charac-
teristic of Tarifa’s windsurfing scene, full of brightly coloured kites filling the sky and with the continual sounds of surfers making splashes in the water.
The northern side of this beach is more difficult to get to although there’s a lot of parking for those driving their own cars.
Walking is hard and it may be best to get a taxi from the old town.
There are just as many kitesurfing schools along the northern part as chiringuitos.
This may not be the best place for those looking to simply lounge as on windy days you’re going to feel that sand in your face.
PLAYA VALDEVAQUEROS
By far the windiest beach is Playa Valdevaqueros, making it popular among those
HIT THE SAND!
Life’s a beach, for Regina Roberts, on a trip to check out Tarifa’s famous sandy shores
wanting to participate in water sports.
A picturesque beach with large sand dunes (below) along its four kilometres, it is backed by various restaurants offering an array of food options.
There’s a lot going on and plenty of places with music playing through speakers, with Tumbao a top pick, while on the sand, you’ll see loads of people preparing their boards for the water. Others jump in and out of the sea or play football with friends.
Getting here if you are staying in the old town involves taking a taxi as it is even farther along the coast. However, this section of the main coast road is lined with hotels for surfers.
As a result, this beach draws in visitors from around the globe, but you’ll have to take a taxi to get here most likely, as while there are the occasional buses, it’s not easy to find out when they come or leave.
The annual Black Flag report is in and it isn’t pretty reading as ‘touristification’ and a greedy political class are blamed for destroying Spain’s coastline
The 440-metre behemoth is being built directly on the sand – with basement included – not far from an archeological site, in plain violation of coastal regulations.
“It all comes down to the country’s laws which regulate coastal developments,”
Yus-Ramos said.
“There are things you can do and things you can’t, and the Junta just ignores it.
“The town halls submit plans for beach developments but it’s the Junta which has to approve them.
“The ultimate responsibility for these black flags lies with the Junta.”
The report also pulled Malaga up for the massive plastic waste generated by the San Juan festivities on June 23.
“The night of San Juan left the beaches covered in plastic,” Yus-Ramos said. “In the end, much of that plastic waste goes in the sea.”
The group estimates that between 20 and 40 tonnes of litter was left on beaches come the morning.
MILLION MILESTONE
The Olive Press website is soaring to new heights - so join the conversation!
ceiving four black flags, with said dunes on the Trafalgar coast between Tarifa and Vejer being a particular concern.
“The current urban development between Zahara and Atlanterra is dismantling the natural barrier that has protected the region’s dune systems,” the report states.
It adds that there are nearly three kilometres of formerly pristine beach that are now occupied by illegally-built homes that ‘lack basic infrastructure for water supply and wastewater treatment’.
Incredibly, plans are already underway to expand the illegal sites with two waterhungry golf courses
Ecologists in Action has called for more bins to be placed on the beach for the event and signs warning of the harm caused by litter.
It added: “Ideally, these massive festivities should gradually decline until they disappear.”
Yus-Ramos added that constant construction and development all along the Costa del Sol has led to the disappearance of many beaches, which now have to be regularly replenished with artificial sand.
“In Cadiz there are sandy natural beaches that still have dunes,” he continued. “But these have almost completely disappeared in Malaga.
Cadiz, however, does not escape lightly, re-
Incredibly, plans are already underway to expand the illegal developments with two water-hungry golf courses.
Meanwhile, sewage waste has been seeping into Playa Talamanca in Ibiza and both Playa Granada and Playa Poniente in
Granada.
This has been killing off the seagrass meadows that grow just off the coast, with over half of the fields in Talamanca Bay now dead.
And do not even ask what is escaping onto the Alicante beach of El Barranco del Amerador (see right).
Ok we’ll tell you: “So far this year, there have been two faecal discharges at the Amerador beach from the pumping station located in the ravine, due to overflow and lack of maintenance.
It’s a similar story at Alicante beach, where the population
has doubled in the last 40 years without a similar investment in local infrastructure.
“The risk of new discharges could produce not only visible items like wet wipes, plastic bags, or cotton buds but also less visible pollutants such as heavy metals, hydrocarbon residues, and other toxins,” the report says.
“Beaches could be closed if tests reveal high levels of E.coli, as happened last summer at San Gabriel and Urbanova beaches.”
The report does try to offer solutions to each of the environmental or management issues it raises, which often involves upgrading infrastructure such as treatment plants.
But for Yus-Ramos, the ultimate cause of the issues on Spain’s beaches are the commercialisation and poor environmental management of the coastline, the blame for which he plants squarely at the feet of politicians.
Opinion Page 6
TThe start of July saw more than 800,000 people visit www.theolivepress.es over a seven-day period, blowing our competitors out of the water.
It came after an urgent update of our server, which was being overloaded by the rapid surge in visitors trying to access the site.
It makes the Olive Press, definitively, the most popular - as well as trusted - English news site in Spain.
Our visitors are a healthy balance of British, Irish, American, Dutch, German and other Europeans. We even had 49,000 Aussies visit the site in June.
Over the past few months, we have seen nearly 10,000 people register an account on theolivepress.es.
We now have 40,000 users, a figure that is currently increasing by more than 1,000 each week.
Our registered users receive weekly newsletters covering travel, property and health. They also get to comment on stories and get sent special deals and discounts from our growing number of partners. This includes access to competitions, such as entering to win tickets to see Jonas Blue play at Max Beach next week, or Pete Tong DJ in Marbella in August.
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Rock solid advice THRICE BITTEN
IF men don’t want their penis to get smaller the secret is to not get old!
A Spanish urologist has released a new book called Everything you need to know about the penis and never dared to ask (Todo lo que necesitas saber sobre el pene y nunca te atreviste a preguntar) that contains a few un - comfortable home truths for men.
Blanca Madurga, a doctor from Hospital del Mar in Cadiz, has claimed that men’s penises shrink as they get older due to their decreasing testosterone levels.
In further bad news for smokers, Madurga claims that the habit causes the blood vessels in the penis to shrink.
This can weaken a man’s erection by as much as 25%.
The urologist emphasises the importance of addressing taboos about sexual organs, offering men advice on when and how to seek professional help for sexual dysfunctions, which are often more treatable than they believe.
TICK WATCH
SPAIN is increasing monitoring of two potentially fatal diseases transmitted by ticks, but states that it is good practice, rather than a response to a medical crisis.
Health authorities have introduced tick monitoring into the National Plan for Surveillance and Control of Vector-borne Diseases. This focuses on measuring instances of Lyme disease
and Crimean-Congo haemorrhagic fever (CCHF).
Ticks are carriers of viruses, bacteria, and protozoa, which they transmit to humans when they pierce the skin to draw blood.
Top killer revealed
Cancer biggest cause of death in Spain for first time
CANCER has become the biggest killer in Spain for the first time, according to 2023 mortality figures compiled by the National Institute of Statistics (INE).
Last year, 115,013 people died from some kind of tumour - representing 26.55% of all deaths.
Until then, it had been diseases of the circulatory system that had the highest mortality rate, but those fell by 5.3%.
Lung cancers were the most prominent with 22,717 deaths, followed by colon cancer, with
By Alex Trelinski
10,891 fatalities - 2.3% fewer than in 2022. There were a total of 433,163 deaths in Spain in 2023, some 31,254 (6.7%) fewer than the previous year. Among men, ischemic heart disease was a leading cause of death (17,038), while among women it was dementia (12,817).
The INE says the diseases that increased the most were respiratory diseases.
THE Spanish Medicines Agency (AEMPS) has warned that just using suncream is not enough to protect children from the harmful effects of sun exposure. It comes as it launched a campaign in partnership with the Spanish Dermatology Academy. Titled Advice for adequate sun protection for kids, the campaign aims to avoid burns,
Deaths from pneumonia went up by 17.1% and chronic lower respiratory diseases by 2.6%.
SUN WARNING
sun allergies, eye injuries, visible ageing and, most importantly, skin cancer. A spokesman said: “Just applying sun cream without other physical sun protection methods like glasses and hats is not enough to protect against sun radiation.”
Call me, Fijaz Mughal, in confidence. I’m fully-accredited and professionally-trained in London and recently moved to Spain.
I understand the issues many expats feel in Spain. Change through relocation abroad can really add to mental health pressures and these life changes are never easy. Counselling and therapy has changed the lives of many. Getting in touch is the first step. Recognising that there is an issue is the first step on the road to recovery.
THE venomous violin spider has bitten its first recorded victim in Spain.
A 42-year-old resident of the northern Pais Vasco region was the unlucky recipient, being bitten at least three times between May and September in his own home.
The man was later diagnosed with a cutaneous necrotizing condition, prompting doctors to drain the wound and put him on a course of antibiotics.
The health authorities said that it was important to recognise this kind of bite so that it can be properly treated in this way.
The violin spider is one of three venomous varieties out of 1,400 documented species that inhabit the Iberian Peninsula.
Strokes accounted for 23,173 deaths - 6.1% lower than in 2022.
The figures show that 95.9% of the deaths registered last year were down to natural causes. Another change compared to previous years is that accidental falls appear as the main cause of external death, surpassing suicides for the first time.
Nevertheless, suicides average nearly 11 per day in Spain with 2,962 cases last year and a larger prominence among males.
The spiders measure between one and three centimetres, have six eyes in the shape of a half moon, are a reddish brown colour, and have very thin legs.
“Its popular name derives from the violin-shaped pattern it has on the front of its body called prosoma,” biologist Claudia Isabel Navarro Rodriguez told the magazine Unam Global.
“Beyond its physical characteristics, it can be said that the violinist is shy, so it avoids contact with humans and, if necessary, can self-injure to escape human presence,” she added.
FOOD,DRINK & TRAVEL
ON THE HORSE WALK
High heels and hooves at So Sotogrande’s unique fashion show fusing the best of Andalucian design and breathtaking equestrianism
IF you love fashion and horses then you should head over to the SO/ Sotogrande Spa & Golf Resort.
This five star retreat is about to host the second edition of the fashion show, Cabalgando Entre Costuras (Riding Between Seams), which brings together the cream of Andalucian fashion with the best of the Cadiz region’s famed equestrian culture.
On July 20, the resort’s Rocío Garden will transform into a magical runway where you can experience the latest creations of a string of re-
nowned local designers.
Fashion gurus Santiago Carrasco, Gema Valero, and Lola Laumar will showcase their collections, each piece influenced by the region’s rich heritage and vibrant spirit.
What sets the show apart is its innovative fusion of fashion and equestrian art.
Andalucian purebred horses, known for their grace and power, will take to the runway alongside the equally elegant models.
Artistic interplay between the models and thoroughbred horses will add a touch of drama and move-
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by leading chef Leandro Caballero. SO/ Sotogrande SPA & Golf Resort is more than just a venue for this spectacular event. It’s a luxurious haven offering world-class hospitality, championship golf courses, and a variety of activities to rejuvenate your mind, body, and soul. The option is there to extend your stay and explore the beauty of Sotogrande and its surrounding areas, which is particularly fun as the season kicks in this month.
Doors open for the July 20 event at
November 29thDecember 12th 2023
LOOKING FOR MORE TRAVEL STORIES?
Scan to visit our website
July 10th - July 23th
9pm, with the show starting at 10pm. Tickets start at €45 with VIP boxes for eight or 12 costing €1,200 and €1,800 respectively.
For ticket sales and information, scan the QR code here
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AnyTech365’s health checks will make sure your computer is not watching cat videos when you’re out
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SECURITY
Olive Press is excited to announce a partnership with AnyTech365, the leading IT security and support company on the Costa del Sol. This collaboration offers Olive Press readers enhanced tech support and cybersecurity solutions.
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WHAT ABOUT HARDWARE?
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Think of them as the digital equivalent of Gandalf yelling ‘You shall not pass!’ to those pesky viruses trying to infiltrate your precious data. But wait, there’s more! We’re not just about fixing what’s broken; we’re all about preventive care. That means tweaking your power settings, so your PC isn’t burning through battery life like it’s going out of style.
is currently in the process of becoming publicly the New York Stock Exchange (NYSE), with the expected to complete in Q3 of 2024.
For an even more immersive experience, consider opting for a VIP box. These exclusive spaces offer prime viewing of the show, along with a selection of tapas and drinks prepared Rocío Garden, SO/ SOTOGRANDE. Av. Almenara, s/n, 11360 Sotogrande, Cádiz
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Making a meaningful local impact, AnyTech365 has been a proud title-sponsor of the Andalucía Open tennis tournament, including the ATP 250 tournament in 2021, the biggest sporting event in the region. It has excellent online reputation scores with tens of thousands of end user reviews on Trustpilot (4.8/5) and Google Reviews (4.9/5).
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all sectors” (Source: Financial Times
The company is currently in the process of becoming publicly listed on the
The company is currently in the process of becoming publicly listed on the New York Stock Exchange (NYSE), with the transaction expected to complete in Q3 of 2024.
the Andalucía Excellence Award in New Technologies, and others. Making a meaningful local impact, AnyTech365 has been a proud title-sponsor of the Andalucía Open tennis tournament, including the ATP 250 tournament in 2021, the biggest sporting event in the region. It has excellent online reputation scores with tens of thousands of end user reviews on Trustpilot
FOOD,DRINK & TRAVEL
November 29thDecember 12th 2023
LOOKING FOR MORE TRAVEL STORIES?
CITY LIFEbut not as you know it
Forget the bustling plazas and sprawling avenues –Frias offers a city experience unlike any other
OP Puzzle solutions
Quick Crossword
Across: 4 Astonishment, 8 Uh-uh, 9 Imagines, 10 Alphas, 12 Tarzan, 13 Tremor, 14 Nieces, 15 Phone-ins, 16 H T T P, 17 Prime suspect.
Down: 1 Gogh, 2 Civil Service, 3 Pedigree, 5 Scholarship, 6 Heart and soul, 7 Therapeutic, 11 Humanoid, 16 Hops.
Nestled in the heart of the Castilla y Leon region, this charming settlement holds the title of Spain's smallest city, boasting a population of just under 300. But what Frias lacks in size, it more than makes up for in character.
It may not have a cathedral, but it was granted city status by King Juan II of Castile in 1435 by royal charter and these days it is a popular tourist spot. Taking a stroll through cobbled streets time seems to be frozen in a bygone age.
Quaint houses precariously perch on the edge of a crag, two historic churches, and a convent all contribute to Frias' medieval atmosphere. As you wander, it's easy to forget you're in the 21st century. Frias’ location is no accident.
Perched atop a hill overlooking
By Alex Trelinski
the Ebro River, the town served as a crucial crossing point on ancient routes leading to the Cantabrian Sea.
The imposing Velasco Castle, dating back to the 12th-15th centuries, dominates the river crossing and would have protected the surrounding region from raiders during the uncertain and war-torn days of the medieval age. Frias is aptly named in homage to the cold temperature of the water that flows from the mountainous peaks draining into the Tobalina Valley.
To explore the narrow, winding streets
leave your car behind - the charming alleyways are far too narrow for vehicles. As you climb to the summit of the escarpment you can take in breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside. Step outside the city walls and discover a picture-perfect landscape. Rolling fields, fertile farmlands, and the ma-
jestic Obarenes Mountains paint a breathtaking backdrop to this unique city. Spain is a country brimming with vibrant cities and sun-drenched beaches. But for those seeking a unique and unforgettable experience, Frias beckons. This tiny city offers a glimpse into a bygone era, breathtaking natural beauty, and a chance to slow down and truly appreciate the charm of a simpler time.
LA CULTURA
BRINGING HOME THE BACON
As police recover stolen painting by the Irish master, Ben Pawlowski delves into Francis Bacon’s
love affair with Spain
FRAIL and ill, Francis Bacon
spent his final days in the heart of Madrid, charming the nuns who were treating him with his characteristic wit and newly-learnt Spanish skills.
It was a low-key end to a remarkable life, 82 years which had taken the Irish-born maestro from an affluent Dublin household, was unceremoniously booted out from, after his father discovered him wearing his mother’s underwear, to the Spanish capital.
While he was well known as a fervent Francophile, Bacon had a passionate fling with Spain in his later years. Famed for the raw, powerful imagery that inhabited his works, Bacon took inspiration from two colossuses of Spanish art whom he regarded as his greatest influences - Pablo Picasso and Diego Velazquez.
Indeed, Bacon’s trademark representations of papal figures mimicked Velazquez’s famous paintings.
The Prado Museum, the marvellous maze holding the entire Spanish royal collection, soon became Bacon’s favourite stomping ground as he sought seeds of creativity
By Ben Pawlowski
from masters old and new.
Workers recall Bacon insisting he be allowed in on Mondays when the museum was traditionally closed to visitors, so he could peruse the thousands of works displayed without distraction, learning from the baroque methods of Velazquez and the cubist imagination of Picasso.
It wasn’t just Spanish art with which Bacon fell deeply in love - at a party hosted by Sir Frederick Ashton, the acclaimed British ballet star, Bacon met a dashing, young, rich Spanish banker by the name of Jose Capelo.
Earlier this year, the Policia Nacional recovered the fourth of five paintings, personally gifted by Bacon, which were stolen by a gang from Capelo’s home - a portrait of Capelo
(above), the fourth painting to be recovered, is estimated to be valued at €5 million.
While Capelo has always insisted their relationship was not romantic, leaked recordings after Bacon’s death suggest the opposite, with their flechazo regarded as the artist’s ‘final, passionate affair’.
He fell in love with a Spaniard, indeed, but also with Spain, with the warmth, the food, the drink, the culture,
making many friends along the way. Madrid became the final, great destination of a life which had toured cities including Berlin, Paris and Tangier. He was enamoured, too, with the bullfighting tradition which he described as ‘death in the sunlight’ and a ‘marvellous aperitif of sex’. He often visited Las Ventas bullring.
INSPIRATION: Velasquez’s Pope Innocent X with Bacon’s ‘screaming Pope’ and (above) the stolen portrait of Capelo
A favoured drinking spot was Bar Cock, an elegant setting off the magnificent Gran Via, where Bacon and his
Spanish partner would have a martini or, if feeling fancy, a bottle of champagne at ‘their’ spot of table nine. Afterwards, the pair would tend to stroll down to La Trainera, an upmarket seafood restaurant in equally swanky Salamanca, where they would wind away hours.
STAY SAFE
If you break down, stay calm and safe until rescue support arrives. Remember that while you wait for help, your priority is to safeguard yourself and any fellow passengers. Línea Directa policyholders simply call 919 171 171 and inform the emergency hotline where you are. Línea Directa provides emergency roadside assistance anywhere in Spain 24/7 and 365 days a year, with a national network of operators and recovery vehicles.
GEOLOCATION SERVICE
This service is exclusive to Línea Directa and allows breakdown recovery and roadside assistance services to pinpoint your location and send help directly to you. This service is available throughout mainland Spain, the Balearic Islands and the Canary Is-
lands. The technology is simple to use and really useful when you need it most.
BREAKDOWN KIT
To help you stay safe here is a checklist of some important safety items in the event of a breakdown. This emergency breakdown kit should be kept in your vehicle at all times. The kit includes: a torch and spare batteries, warm clothes and blankets, high-visibility jacket, first aid kit, jump start cables, empty fuel can, food and drink, two reflective warning signs, a road atlas, and a mobile phone charger.
OVER 20 YEARS OF EXPERTISE
As Spain’s most experienced provider of insurance for British expatriates, Línea Directa has been keeping motorists on the move for over 20 years.
We hope the information provided in this article is of interest. If you would like to contact Línea Directa please call 952 147 834. More information about Línea Directa online at www.lineadirecta.com
Crucifix thieves
POLICE recovered over a tonne of bronze crucifixes stolen from cars and homes in Toledo province that thieves were going to melt down and sell for cash.
Flip-flopped
THE Guardia Civil has issued a reminder to drivers in Spain that although wearing flipflops is not strictly illegal, you can be charged if you crash because of them.
Hero search
THE hunt is on for a lone ‘hero’ Spanish football fan who was filmed celebrating manically in a sea of Germany supporters after Spain scored a last minute winner in their Euro 2024 quarter final.
Come again?
Government wants to limit people to 30 porn sessions a month in order to combat children being exposed
THE Spanish government is seeking to introduce a ‘digital card’ that will give users ‘tokens’ in order to view porn websites. The online card, set to arrive in late summer, will require users to identify themselves and verify their age when they top their cards up.
By Walter Finch
It will give them 30 tokens to visit porn websites over a period of 30 days before needing to identify themselves again.
But the user can renew their set of tokens as many times as they want, so in effect there will not be limitations on how much porn a person can watch. Heavy users of online porn will even receive alerts reminding them to renew their tokens if they max out their sessions before the 30-day period. The idea of the tokens is to
FURIOUS locals are demanding action over 200 rogue goats, which have taken over the picturesque mountain towns of Cox in the Sierra de Callosa mountain range in Alicante.
The brazen baa-stards are munching through gardens and leaving a trail of destruction in their wake.
For years residents have en dured the hoofed hooligans,
Baa-stards!
but a recent drought has made things even worse.
The feral goats are now descending on the town in ever larger numbers in search of food and drinking water from the town’s fountains.
As a temporary measure, the town council has created areas with supplies of water and food in the hills out of town.
avoid the need for identity checks every time someone wants to watch porn, which would in turn create privacy issues for the government’s policy planners. The stated purpose of the new ‘digital card’ is to stop children under 18 from accessing porn. “The data we
see on minors’ access to adult content and its possible consequences are what have led us to develop this tool as quickly as possible,” said Jose Luis Escriva, Spain’s digital transformation minister,
A report published by Spain’s Ministry of Justice in January found that seven out of ten young people between the ages of 13 and 17 regularly watch porn, with 30% saying it is their only source of sexual education. The tokens will be issued by a ‘trusted government entity’ which ‘will not generate a trace of the request’, according to sources from the Ministry of Digital Transformation.
The National Cryptologic Centre will ‘ensure there is no record’ of users’ porn habits’.
O.A.Prix
RACING legend Johnny Herbert is swapping the high-octane world of Formula 1 for the thrilling world of...Benidorm's mobility scooters.
Apparently, British holidaymakers have earned a reputation for being a tad too enthusiastic with their electric steeds, leaving the local council clutching their pearls. That's where Herbert comes in. Forget champagne showers and podium finishes, this summer he'll be facing a different kind of g-force: Granny power.
The 1991 Le Mans champion is being enlisted by package holiday company, On the Beach, to teach the over-55s the finer points of mobility scooter etiquette.
The good news for Brits (and their possibly terrified ankles) is that these lessons will come with a free scooter rental. Herbert himself, now a sprightly 60, sees the humor in the situation. “I never thought I’d be teaching Brits how to drive scooters in Benidorm,” he chuckled (hopefully not while trying to outrun a particularly feisty octogenarian on a mission for discounted marmalade).