WHITE OUT
IT is hard to believe that just below me are the glistening white beaches of the Costa Tropical and its nearby sister, the Costa del Sol. Way over to my east are Tunis, Sicily and Athens, while to the west are Sevilla and the Algarve.
Yet somehow, just somehow, I am wrapped up in a parka with a warm hat and gloves and completely surrounded by fluffy white snow as far as the eye can see.
Yes, this is the Sierra Nevada, Europe’s most southerly skiing resort and mainland Spain’s highest mountain. The geography of the area is simply staggering given its proximity to the beach and getting so much snow here is all to do with its altitude, which goes up to a staggering 3,482 metres (11,423 feet) above sea level. Its highest peak, Mul-
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C/DE SAN BERNARDO SIERRA NEVADA 18196 MONACHIL (GRANADA)
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SKIS THE LIMIT: Sierra Nevada highpoint with views across the Med
Photo by Jon Clarke
slopes offer snowboarding thrills and spills
WITH snow like fine powder, the Sierra Nevada is a Mecca for thrill-seeking snowboarders.
For beginners and experts alike, Spain’s highest resort is a glorious setting and gets more and more popular by the year.
Stunning scenery is matched by the top-class facilities, which saw the resort host the Snowboard World Championships in 2017. Novices should head to the central station Borreguiles, where lifts deposit snowboarders on a smooth and groomed area where they can hone their skills.
Once ready, or for those of a higher standard, they then need to head up to the SuperPark Sulayr, Europe’s largest freestyle snowboard park.
Now relocated to an altitude of 2,700 metres on Borreguiles, Spain’s most famous snowboarding park also houses the country’s biggest half-pipe.
Measuring an astonishing 165 metres in length with a height of six metres, the special design flattens the snow on the side of the half-pipe so boarders can jump on both sides.
For the best deals in snowboarding equipment and rentals visit South Star, which has three shops in the resort.
All a-board
hacen, is named after Moorish king Muley Hacen (Abdul Hassan Ali), who is said to have been buried at the top.
The views from the top of the highest ski lift, at 3,300 metres, are among the best in Europe, with the views across the Mediterranean to the Rif mountains of Morocco making it look like a small pond.
From here, I have frequently skied into the Laguna de las Yeguas valley, including its celebrated Olympic run, with almost nobody around, assuming you are up here midweek.
Discovery
It was two decades ago that I first spotted the faraway snowy peaks of the Sierra Nevada from the terrace of a roof-top restaurant in Torremolinos some 150 kilometres away.
It was intriguing, like a giant white magnet, and I was soon racing up there to be seduced by the thrills of winter sports, right here on our doorstep.
None of the hassle of flying to Lyon or Turin and schlepping it up on a long coach trip into the Alps, as most of us on the costas can get there in a couple of hours.
While it’s a fabulous day trip from the Costa del Sol, you are missing half the fun if you don’t stay at least one night.
Not only has the main resort of Pradollano got some of the best places to eat in Granada province but there is some excellent apres-ski entertainment on offer.
It has become a rite of passage to hit the slopes for at least a few days since a school trip to the French Alps as a teenager.
I can’t wait to strap on skis as Christmas nears and the first snows of the year finally arrive. From front page
OLYMPIC RUN
Annoyingly the season seems to start later and later these days in the Sierra Nevada. While the Pyrenees already has a ton of snow, we often have to wait until just before Xmas to get the white stuff.
The beauty of skiing in the Sierra Nevada is that the slopes are usually warm during the day and you will see many regulars actually skiing in t-shirts. It’s a total contrast to the skiers who will be shivering in the Alps at this time or year though, where the price of a beer or a coffee will certainly be double.
“While I love heading up to Val d’Isere or somewhere nearby in winter, nothing beats a couple of days in the Sierra Nevada,” says hotelier James Stuart, from Vejer de la Frontera.
“It’s a charming place and it’s so very convenient for all of us in southern Spain.”
Local ski school owner Simone of Las Gondolas agrees: “This is the nicest place in the world to ski. We offer the best weather and the prices have hardly gone up in years,” says the veteran, who has been working here for nearly four decades.
And if you plan the trip properly you
could combine it with a night in the em blematic city of Granada, which is just 40 minutes down the hill.
The Alhambra and its amazing Generalife gardens are open every day of the year and a walk around the Arabic parts of the city, in particular, the Albayzin or Realejo, are wonderful with the snowy backdrop above.
You might also add in a night or two in the fascinating nearby region of the Alpujarras, or the Lecrin valley, just on the other side of the mountain.
Whatever your plans, one of the true joys of a weekend in the Sierra Nevada, is seeing the snowy peaks appear on the skyline from an hour away and then the wonderful windy drive on the final leg.
sharp curves and very steep drops.
The resort is run by Cetursa, an offshoot of the Junta, and has got incredibly organised and digitalised over recent years. The buying of ski passes (forfeits) is easier than ever and most do it in advance online, or using an easy-to-use app.
It’s easy to park right under the two main ski-lifts to the top and it costs around 20 euros a day.
This is one of Spain’s most amazing drives, with scenery to die for
Most places to rent skis and boots, or snowboards, can be found within 200m of the car park.
While this year the snow has arrived late, some 40,000 skiers often land on the bank holiday puente weekend at the beginning of December.
Now the temperatures have finally dropped there will be plenty of snow machines pumping throughout the day and night and at its peak there will be 110 kms of pistes open.
lar area, Europe’s largest freestyle park, with its giant 165 metre ‘half pipe’.
And then there is the famous ‘Rio’ run that leads right down to the resort of Pradollano, which sits at 2,100 metres.
spot to take in the air or a spot of lunch, and there are things for the kids to do, with entertainers and Disney figures wandering around, particularly around Christmas.
“Since then the infrastructure changes were huge and it is now a big resort,” explains resort marketing boss Santiago Sevilla, who has worked there for nearly two decades.
This is one of Spain’s most amazing drives, with scenery to die for, as the snowy mountains loom ever closer. Indeed, at least half of those who drive up don’t even ski, but come to enjoy the views and exhilarating road with its that Netflix made its amazing series Society of the Snow about the infamous 1972 plane crash in the Andes. For snowboarders or jump-lovers make your way to Superpark Sulayr, in the Loma de Di-
Planning
A fun fact, it was in the Laguna valley, designed for expert skiers,
It definitely pays to pick your days with Easter and Christmas frequently saturated with queues for the lifts, although Christmas Day can often be relatively quiet, while on the day of
the Reyes (January 6), almost all of the Spanish will be at home opening presents.
Don’t forget to try and avoid Semana Blanca (literally ‘white week’) – or half term at the end of February – when school children learn to ski, and, of course, bank holidays can also be very busy. The main tip is to go up early at 8am to 9am before the Spanish get going or waiting till midday. While a modern resort, the main base at Pradollano is a nice
SLICING UP: The pizza slice shapes need improving
The Sierra Nevada has also got a reputation as being a resort for fun, with the apres ski being some of the best in Europe, once you know where to find it (tip: it’s mostly uphill).
The skiing resort started to develop rapidly from 1995 when the World Skiing Championship was scheduled to be held there (due to poor snow it actually took place the following year).
The ticket office in Plaza Andalucia is fully digital and now has dozens of machines installed for credit cars and phone payments so you shouldn’t have to queue for long.
A day’s skiing costs €37 to €63 at peak time, but normally about €45, while those in their 70s get free passes.
AUTHORITIES: The local police and Guardia Civil mountain patrol
HIGH LIFE: Jon relaxing on the terrace at El Lodge
It used to be a two hour bus ride from Granada and then a donkey up the slope
THE only way to get to the top of the slope was to walk... or take a friendly donkey! Indeed, until the first two ski lifts (Borreguiles and Parador) were built in 1969, this was the preferred route.
The resort actually dates back to 1912 when Spain’s oldest ski club, the Sierra Nevada Society was founded. However, it was not until the 1920s –with the modernisation of Granada’s roads - that the Sierra Nevada started to become known.
By the last 1950s a bus used to chug its way up to the slopes, while cars would turn up in their dozens at weekends. Visitor numbers slowly grew from then and, in 1964, Cetursa, a business dedicated to reserving ski tickets, was founded. It was around then that the resort was at its most glamourous with the likes of Principe Alfons Hohenlohe, the owner the Marbella Club hotel, regularly bringing up friends, including Sean Connery to ski.
The best selection of old pictures, not just some of the vintage visitors to the resort, can be found in the charming Tito Luigi restaurant, which has been open for nearly 30 years and counts the King as an occasional visitor.
“We have had them all in here,” explains owner Javier, who heralds from Menorca.
“Spain’s best footballers, bullfighters and its leading politicians... everyone loves to ski in the Sierra Nevada.”
The route to the top
Timeline of a ski station
● Angel Ganivet, Spanish Consul to Helsinki, gave birth to the idea of turning Sierra Nevada into a ski re sort at the end of the 19th century. He likened his Granada homeland to the ‘Finland of Andalucia’ in a local newspaper.
● 1898 marked the creation of Diez Amigos Limited, a group that led skiing excursions around the area.
● Thanks to their continued success, the organisation was able to create the first youth hostel in the area not long after rebranding itself Sociedad Sierra Nevada in 1912.
● The main road from Granada to Sierra Nevada and a cable car were both put in place at the beginning of the 1920s, which allowed more people to discover the joys of snow-oriented fun.
● The boom years of the resort began in 1964, when Centros Turísticos S.A. (CETURSA), was created, allowing its rapid development.
● Sierra Nevada is the southernmost ski station in Europe and sits at the highest point in Spain.
● The station hosted the World Alpine Ski Championships in 1996. It has also welcomed several Alpine Ski World Cup events, with the first in 1977. In addition, it has been the main venue for the Winter Olympics.
● In 2017, Sierra Nevada hosted the FIS Snowboard and Freestyle World Championships, a major international contest put together by the board of the International Ski Federation.
OLD DAYS: It wasn’t quite as easy to reach the slopes...
In the family!
A new generation is slip-sliding into position to take over the famous expat-run British Ski Centre in the Sierra Nevada
WITH over 60 years’ experience between them on the famous Granada slopes, it is perhaps understandable that ski dynamos Giles Birch and Jonathan Buzzard are looking at some succession planning.
While Jonathan's daughter Tasha, has been a teacher at their well-established British Ski Center business, his 22 yr old son Harry has now also joined the team.
Giles' 16-year-old daughter Carlota has recently begun competing for the UK’s “GB Snowsports” federation specialis-
ing in the Moghuls freestyle discipline and occasionally lends a hand, while his Portuguese wife is a fellow teacher too.
Jonathan's oldest son Sylvester, 35, is currently a resort manager in the top French resort Meribel.
"They were all sliding down black runs by the age of five, so it's no surprise most of them have gone into winter sports as a career," explains Jonathan - better known as 'Buzz' - who spends half the year working for a yacht delivery business.
The pair had first met trying to look cool at the seminal Crescendo bar at the foot of the slopes back in the mid-1990s.
Giles as resort manager for Neilson Ski tour operator and Jonathan as an already established instructor working with the International Ski School.
Giles then qualified as a ski instructor in 1998 working for the Spanish Ski School where he began putting his previous tour operations experience and web building to good use to source clients for lessons and offer travel packages to the Sierra Nevada.
Buzz, who had already been running a summer paragliding business along the beaches of Marbella, was looking to expand upon his already well-developed winter client base and between them they developed the British Ski Center ski school and it’s complementary holiday booking agency, Sierra Essence.
Their collision over Glühwein under the Seventies-style glitter balls at Crescen-
do, quickly led to an alliance to cater for a rapidly growing invasion of British skiers.
Helping them from the airport to the slopes, sorting out accommodation, lift passes and all, ended up being a successful business.
"I was looking for the ideal transport rep to support me whilst working for Neilson Ski" recalls Giles, over coffee, in nearby Güejar Sierra, where he's lived for almost two decades.
He continues: "I was told that Crescendo was the place to find the Brits-in-the know... and next thing in walks Buzz with just the right attitude, wearing a long flashers mac, 'big hair' and a friendly, outgoing persona."
Buzz was soon helping to divide and rule the arrival of four full flights from the UK on a Sunday.
"We pooled resources, and we were certainly not treading on anybody's toes, because we were focusing specifically on the English-speaking market.
"Unsurprisingly back then there were hardly any instructors who spoke English, so we found ourselves expanding rapidly with the demand."
Still great mates some three decades on, they now have a fully staffed office next to the popular Tia Maria restaurant right by the main ski lift up from Pradollano, and another office as a meeting point for all lessons up in the Borreguiles ski area.
They cater for hundreds of customers a month, as well as sorting out numerous trips, each year.
And best of all, Buzz has returned the favour for Giles by getting him plenty of exciting jobs delivering luxury yachts around the Med each summer.
"I am a delivery skipper for Riva yachts in Italy and there is so much demand it is great to have someone like Giles to help teach the new owners the ropes," explains Buzz, who has taken boats to Marbella, Jersey and Montenegro this year among other places.
"It's good fun, as is attending the yacht shows in Monaco and Cannes, but I can't wait to get back to the slopes each winter," he insists.
So, what is it that draws them back to the Sierra Nevada each winter?
"It is as good as most other international resorts and the range of skiing and schools for families and kids is hard to beat," explains Giles.
"I love being up here in this environment; the great outdoors, the mountains and the people you're with. There's quite a special vibe in a ski resort environment."
As Buzz adds: "We've just become part of the mountain life up in the Sierra Nevada and that's where our hearts are at the end of the day."
For a full range of classes for snowboarding and skiing, and any other holiday requirements,visit www.skisierranevada.co.uk for more info.
EXPERIENCED: Owners Jonathan and Giles
A GRAND OLD CITY
Add an extra dimension to your winter sports experience with these other (great value and often free) Granada sites
NO trip to the Sierra Nevada is complete without paying homage to Granada’s most iconic landmark, the
stunning Alhambra Palace. This magical 13th century Ar abic building dominates the city from its hill top eyrie.
After a morn ing tour of the sumptuous monument and its gar dens, wander the streets of the Albaicin, the pedestrianised for mer Moorish quarter.
The streets are lined with teterias serving au thentic mint tea and the Ara bic pastries while the shops are akin to a Moroccan souk, with exotic clothing and beautifully-crafted knickknacks.
For art lovers, the Museum of Fine Arts sits in the heart of the Charles V palace with over 2,000 incredible pieces of classic work.
Elsewhere the Sacromonte neighbourhood is where the original gypsies first settled and lived in caves and you can visit the Museo Cuevas del Sacromonte.
Another of Granada’s
The Museum of Fine Arts sits in the heart of the Charles V palace
FESTIVE FUN
THE resort is one of the most festive places to be in Spain, and the Spaniards know it, as they descend in their droves for Christmas and New Year. ‘Nochebuena’ or Christmas eve, when the Spaniards celebrate the festive season with a huge family meal and lashings of
turron, is usually a sell out. Meanwhile ‘nochevieja’, or New Year’s Eve, where massive screens show the countdown in Madrid’s iconic Puerta del Sol, with grapes galore, is a riot.
For the eve of the Reyes on Jan 5 the three kings duly arrive on skis. Kids will love it.
ICONIC: From the Alhambra to the ancient streets of the Albaicin (right), there is a wealth of history in Granada
ATMOSPHERIC: The bars, cafes and restaurants of the city give a taste of the Granadiños way of life
ICONIC: Alhambra from the Albaicin, while (below) one of its internal patios and the cathedral
most important historic attractions is the Cathedral, an imposing structure of Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture that took over 180 years to con -
It remains unfinished as two towers
were originally planned for the facade, only one of which has been half-built.
As Granada is Andalucia’s main university town, cultural events are high on the agenda. And, above all, it won’t bust your bank balance either. Travel website Omio has branded the city, the cheapest holiday destination in Europe for its range of free activities and cheap sightseeing tours.
The Alhambra is free to enter, although you do have to pay to see its most famous Nasrid palaces and Generalife. The city has dozens of free activities –112 to be exact. That includes 10 free museums.
An evening out in the city must include a tapas crawl taking in a few of the cool restaurants including Gastrobar La Botilleria and its next door hip joint Rosario Varela.
LODGING IN LUXURY
Jon Clarke gets a taste of the high life at the Sierra Nevada’s leading exclusive hotel El Lodge and its sister, El Maribel
I’M luxuriating in a jacuzzi on my own private terrace as a dozen snow cannons go full tilt preparing the Sierra Nevada’s famous Rio run.
While the sun is high in the sky, it’s a crisp two degrees outside and there’s more steam coming from my bath than from my breath.
Welcome to one of Andalucia’s most luxurious hotels, El Lodge, where the country’s captains of industry, celebrities and wealthiest expats come to relax (and maybe ski, if the mood takes them).
The truth is why would you want to head out into the cold once you’ve checked into this uber-stylish retreat.
With just 21 rooms, you can almost guarantee peace and quiet within its wooden walls that have put up the current and former kings of Spain, no less.
Being both hip and sumptuous in equal measures, its seductive lighting cleverly picks out key features, be they vintage furniture or animal print throws.
All put together by designer Andrew Martin, the rooms exude comfort with their warm, neutral tones and high-end amenities (smart entertainment systems, coffee machines etc) and products.
Each has wonderful views past pines up to the snowy peaks and main ski lift of the resort, while the tech even stretches to heated loo seats and a push button bidet.
While the breakfast for kings (appropriately with amazing Eggs Royale), spa and outdoor heated pool is the sort of thing you’d expect from a leading hotel of the world, for me, the Lodge is at its best on a sunny afternoon eating lunch on its terrace.
This really is truly a front row seat to the cream of the Sierra Nevada. And not just the creamy, white powdery stuff that usually arrives in a deluge just before Christmas. This is very much where the beautiful people can be found clinking champagne glasses around the festive season or Semana Santa.
The scenic slope-side terrace is impossible to beat with the steep Aguila run sloping in from the left and the celebrated Rio run down to the right.
With the funky sounds provided by a DJ, you’ll hear a dozen or more languages from guests enjoying lunch, while many will inevitably be up singing and dancing as the sun starts to set.
Above all, though, the food is really good, and even better inside the hotel come dinner time.
For lunch the menu is simple and attractive to peruse with its black and white pics and a good mix of light bites, healthy options and classics. All put together by Executive Chef Juan Martin, there is a new 'tempting' section that includes such delights as the 'crunchy king prawn brioche' or the Wagyu 'Pepito' sandwich with raclette cheese, padron peppers and Chipotle mayonnaise.
Gruyere cheese. There’s bread and tomatoes, among a sea of ham, bresaola and new potatoes, while some thinly sliced mushrooms and red peppers also make the cut.
Its not really my bag, and I’m much happier with the leek soup, although how can they call this amazing mixture a ‘soup’, coming as it does with olive oil, caviar and leeks cooked in three different ways.
The staff are knowledgeable, polite and personable at the same time
I’m guided though to try the Swiss fondue, which isn’t really on my radar, but turns out to be an interesting dish, a two-man operation and involving a bunsen burner being lit at the table and two plates loaded up with a huge mix of things to dip into a pot of creamy
It’s creamy and delicious, but somehow trumped by the amazing oven-baked turbot, that was one of the specials of the day. Cooked by young chef Samuel - who I met when he cooked a similar dish at the group’s sister restaurant El Mirlo, near Tarifa, this summer - here it comes diced up and more elaborated with braised artichokes, mushrooms, cherry tomatoes and parsley. And, best of all, with extra sauce, creamy and full of sliced prawns.
Samuel, from Jerez, along with restaurant manager Pedro Garcia, have been seconded up to the mountains for the season, while my other waitress Naty has been recruited from Ibiza. They make a friendly, capable trio, but like all the staff at the Lodge have the uncanny ability to be knowledgeable, polite and personable at the same time.
Unsurprisingly Pedro, who grew up in nearby Granada, guides me to a local pudding, the ‘piononos’ (left), which herald from Santa Fe where the Moors finally capitulated in 1492. They look like toadstools but are delicious coming with hazelnut cream and mixed fruits.
Marvellous Maribel
For dinner I’m heading to El Lodge’s next door sister hotel El Maribel Ski & Apres Ski.
And what a joyous space the team from Marbella Club/Puente Romano hotel have created here.
Aside from the charming hotel itself, with its 29 well appointed Alpine rooms, the dining room is simply breathtaking.
Billing itself as a ‘gastronomic club’, it is a wonderful wide open space with acres of glass offering the most amazing views and a true sense of escape. Its focus (apart from the views) are the elegant bar at one end and the giant scene setting circular lights, which are tempered depending on the time of day. The mature pines outside are beautifully lit at night and everything is dressed up for the festive season, with pillars entirely swathed in fir, holly and pine cones.
HEAVENLY: A terrace Jacuzzi is the perfect way to relax
GOURMET STARS: Chef Samuel and his delicious baked turbot, while (right) the leek ‘soup’
This is much more of a stand alone restaurant, encouraging diners in from the outside, and the dinner menu is impressive for its long mix of a dozen starters, including oysters and nearby Motril shrimp croquettes.
Argentine waiter/sommelier Ricardo takes me through my paces... and he knows the ropes having worked with Ramon Freixa in Madrid and Martin Beresategui in San Sebastian.
He's just done a season in Formentera and is loving his sojourn on the slopes, he tells me, in particular as the quality expected at his new hotel is ‘second to none’.
He quickly proves this with a wonderful chardonnay by the glass from Pago de Circus Finca Bolandin 2022, while we debate the pink tomato salad with smoked sardines or the carabinero prawn linguine, as a starter.
The decision is quickly taken out of our hands when all of a sudden head chef Juan Martin lands at the table. I’ve met him various times and with his three decades working for the group (11 years up here in the mountains) will clearly know what is best to eat.
“The world has really changed for chefs nowadays with so many vegetarians, vegans and allergies,” he explains. “We have to know almost each dish off by heart and where all the ingredients herald from."
I could talk to him til the cows come home but then I’d never get my truffled steak tartare on brioche, which Hallelujah, is a true bite of heaven!
Next up are the magisterial pink tomatoes from Almeria with a kind of mincemeat of sardines in the middle and a Pippara-spice gazpacho poured on top. Both beautiful to look at and healthy!
A new dish is the ‘Josper-roasted leeks’ which are first lightly boiled and then finished in the Josper oven. Some foie and Brie goats cheese is added on top adding a melt-in-the-mouth element, while at the base is a bravas sauce with cana honey from nearby Frigiliana. Possibly even better is a lightly fried artichoke flower which came with pine nuts and some foie cooked in fino from Jerez... oh and with ‘some burrata and edible leaves from Japan’, to boot.
I feared it might knock me off my perch, but it turned out to be surprisingly light and flavoursome with a flyaway crispiness. Bring on the main course of wild seabass cooked in a Bilbaino sauce of garlic, parsley and tiny shrimps. Juan was clearly on fire. Somehow I managed to pack away a Mille-feuille pudding with chestnut cream and chocolate, washed down with a wonderful Pedro Ximenez from award-winning Montilla Moriles vineyard Toro Albala, near Cordoba. I didn’t just need to go off skiing to burn it off. I needed to do some cross-country skiing, with my wife on my back.
For more information please visit www.ellodge.com or www.maribels.com
COMFORT AND CREATIVITY:
Ricardo serving up a pink tomato salad, while inset, the steak tartare brioche at El Maribel
There is a lot more than the bog standard mountain fare in the Sierra Nevada these days, writes Jon Clarke
HIGH STAKES
Ci Vediamo
The Sierra Nevada’s most elegant restaurant
Michelin trained chef Esteban Silva produces classic Italian style dishes with a modern twist
Open 7 days a week
Monday to Sunday 12.00-16.00 & 20.00-24.00
Plaza Andalucía, Edf. Salvia s/n, Pradollano tel: 958 480 856 civediamosn@gmail.com
FInd us on Google Maps with 360° degree view
DYNAMOS: Stevie and partner Luna
numero uno’ waiter Manu tells me as he squeezes out all the juices (see left) from the head of this wonderful sea creature.
The colours wouldn’t be out of place on a canvas by Cezanne and the taste is up there with the dishes served by the king of fish Angel León, at his three Michelin star restaurant Aponiente, where I ate only last month. Surf and turf at its best - and true theatre, rare for the Granada slopes.
And if you think that is good, try the ‘Tempura special’ (below), if it’s on the specials listprawns, squid, courgettes and aubergine with a Tentsuyu soup (soya, vinegar and dashi). This is a true dish and a half, with the soup really adding an Oriental touch.
Meanwhile, his nigiri of red snapper with
truffle is nothing compared to his scallop served in a bloody mary sauce. Even better is a ‘false’ Thai langoustine risotto using wheat semolina instead of rice, a total melt in the mouth winner.
A classic meeting point for snowboarders (and their professors), there is always a buzz about the place and lots of banter, giving it the feel of a taverna in nearby Granada.
TOP TITO: Chef Tomeu and (above) his gyozas at Tito Tapas
Looking for glamour, you must definitely head for Tito Tapas, which is a riot of bamboo wooden walls, hip sackcloth chairs and olive wood tables. Pals Xavi and Luis, who also own nearby Tito Luigi, brought in an excellent Menorca chef Tomeu Carbonell to get all creative in the kitchen, having done a decent stint with wonderful Bilbao chef Eneko Atxa at Azurmendi.
His steak tartare tacos are legendary, while his gyozas which come with a small sliver of panceta on top (above) are absolutely delicious.
I also loved the local wild Boletus mushrooms with a free range egg and pork jowl, while the ‘crujiente’ of brie looked amazing and the arti-
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PURE ELEGANCE IN THE SIERRA NEVADA, WINES BY THE GLASS, CREATIVE NEW TAPAS BY THE WEEK
Edificio Montblanc – in front of Hotel Melia Sol y Nieve, Sierra Nevada
Huelva…’
From page 23
Best burgers and more
chokes with foie worked well.
If you are still full you might dip into a plate of blue Stilton cheese soaked in port. There are plenty of good wines with at least half a dozen by the glass. The sister restaurant Tito
Luigi, is a place for royalty and at least two kings of Spain have eaten here.
The walls pay tribute to the pair, while you’ll also spot photos of many other international film stars, sportsmen, bullfighters and politicians. There is a cave at the back and
it can serve up to 250 people in one sitting, so expect to be blown away on busy nights and make sure you book in high season. Expect some of the best pizzas in the resort, generally splendid Italian fare, while a stand out dish is easily the squidink spaghetti with prawns. If meat is your thing make sure to try out La Muralla, run by Argentinian Gonzalo Funes,
whose steaks are the best in the resort.
Recently moved to a brand new spot opposite the new Melia hotel it is style personified and will impress all the stylemeisters this year.
No expense has been spared on the design, and thankfully the kitchen is still up to scratch serving up a great range of dishes with the milhoja of foie gras and the melt-in-the-mouth bulls cheek among my favorites
Gonzalo and brother Luciano also run the nearby Muralla
HITTING THE JACKPOT
HE’S only been working on the slopes for four decades, but Nichi is still very much the life and soul of the party.
His popular joint, Bar Ski, is always the first place anyone in the know should head for for lunch, supper, big or small beers.
With a classic soul kitchen and the best ambience in the Sierra Nevada, it is one place that is never empty.
Under the watchful eye of Granada local Nichi, you’ll dine on the heartiest of mountain soups, a fabulous meat stew or something delicious with rice.
The charismatic owner first worked as a waiter in nearby La Llonja in his teens, even serving the king of Spain a number of times
So successful was he as a waiter he
inevitably ended up opening his own bar nearly 30 years ago.
On the walls you will find photos of him with numerous Spanish celebrities, including Antonio Canales, Lola León and Antonio Lechin.
His chef Jose and he come up with a range of decent dishes each week and this is where all the local business owners come to unwind, particularly if Barcelona or Real Madrid are on the telly.
Burger, which specialises in the best quality burgers on the slopes.
It’s hard to disagree trying his ‘gourmet’ burger, which is actually made from oxtail ‘rabo de toro’ with a thin slice of cheese and mayonnaise and cooked in its own juice.
The pair also run popular Las Gondolas just off the slopes and excellent for some apres ski light bites, a hot drink or a beer.
This is one of my favourite spots to take in the sunshine
QUALITY: Best steaks at Muralla and Muralla Burger
GODFATHERS: Xavi and Luis at Tito Luigi, while (right) the amazing Gondolas terrace
FAMOUS CLIENTS: Nichi (ringed), with the King and other celebs
SERVICE WITH A SMILE: Nichi with staff and clients
after a long day of black runs.
Another great simple joint, but with great home cooked food, is Telesilla Burger
It is one of the most popular joints with workers in the resort and the menu del dia is excellent value and changes by the day.
By far the most fun tapas joint is Bar Ski, set up by the funniest man in the Sierra Nevada, Nichi, two decades ago.
His place is always buzzing at lunch and in the evenings and comprises a classic soul kitchen concentrating on hardy, simple dishes.
There is nothing not to like about La Visera
This wonderful well established restaurant sits right on the edge of the slopes with the most amazing views.
Edif Mont Blanc, Sierra Nevada (in front of Melia hotel)
PICTURE PERFECT: La Visera with chef Pepe (right)
From page 23
WHERE TO EAT
Take a journey to Mexico
Food is typical mountain food and chef Pepe is one of the true steady hands in the sierra.
Even better, on cold days you sit inside with a giant glass window with views to die for.
If Mexican is your thing then Calambrito is a lovely space with a good mix of Mexican favourites.
A welcoming interior and seductive lighting plus appropriate Mexican music, this is the brainchild of Alexa, who heralds from nearby Malaga. It’s a fantastic one for kids who love nachos and tacos - and they even have veggie options.
Nuggets de Cheddar, some eight chunks with jalapeno peppers
The Azteca is a chicken soup with cheese, avocado, tomato and Chipotle. It comes out piping hot and smelling great!
Alexa has worked hard to make this the most exciting joint on the slopes and there are hats to don and games to play (one with electric shocks that the kids will love).
“We have been to Mexico many times looking for new dishes,” she explains.
“We actually went with all the key staff and investors this year and loved it.” Chema, one of the partners, actually lived and worked in Mexico as a chef and this really shows. Another place focusing just on burgers, La Calle, sits right next door.
One of a small chain, also in Sevilla and Tarifa, this is a must visit for its amazing 100% demand on pure free range quality beef burgers.
Another excellent place overlooking the slopes is Tia Maria, which has a good mix of dishes and is a great place for breakfast.
A total institution run by Carlos (part of the Tito Luigi family) this is the spot to chill out and enjoy the sun for the afternoon and early evening. For coffee, breakfast, and in fact just about everything, Vertical is hard to beat and also has a great range of snacks and light bites, including hot dogs for the British clientele.
WHERE TO STAY
BLACK OUT
The variety of places to stay in the Sierra Nevada gets better and better, writes Jon Clarke
THERE are dozens of amazing places to stay in Pradollano, but beware on the location, as you might end up with a long walk to the main ski lift.
One of the most charming and best connected is the authentic Hotel Kenia Nevada, which is run by pals Luis and Pedro – who used to ski for the country as youngsters. It also has a gym, spa and small indoor pool as well as an in-house masseur, and plenty of communal areas, filled with charming old furniture.
Going upmarket you should check out the wonderful Melia hotels, right in the heart of the resort.
The rooms at the Melia Sierra Nevada have been recently renovated and the New Premium rooms have been built on floors 7 and 8. Meanwhile the nearby Meliá Sol y Nieve hotel offers The Level experience, which is the hotel group’s most exclusive commitment to luxury and personal service. And if you really want to push the boat out at the top end
are two incredible luxury hotels, Maribel Ski & Après Ski and the El Lodge Ski
& Spa (see review on centre spread).
Both owned by the group behind Marbella’s five star Puente Romano, they have the ultimate in location, right by the slopes, and with views to match.
The rooms are among the best appointed in Spain and you have a choice of spas, outdoor heated pools and hot tubs to luxuriate in.
But, best of all, they each have incredible restaurants to unwind in after a long day on the slopes or not.
Visit www.ellodge.com
