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A pearl beyond price
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LEAMING like a white pearl in the hills above Marbella, Benahavis is the crown jewel of Andalucia’s classic white villages for so many reasons. Most famously, it’s the richest municipality in the region and the second wealthiest per capita in all Spain with average income pushing €29,000. And
no wonder, with the likes of visitors Hugh Grant, Rod Stewart and Cristiano Ronaldo contributing to the town hall coffers. The village is second home to a host of billionaires who have bought property in neighbouring La Zagaleta, Andalucia’s swankiest private urbanisation. Vladimir Putin is reportedly one - although the Continues overleaf
Unlike its well-heeled residents you don’t need deep pockets to enjoy the wealth of natural wonders in Benahavis, writes Joanne Oakley
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Happy hatrick THEY are possibly the three most exclusive places to buy in Andalucia. And Aylesford Spain concentrates its efforts in all three of them. The Benahavis estates of La Zagaleta, El Madronal and The Marbella Club Golf Resort all offer privacy and exclusivity with first class leisure facilities. Among the most expensive places to buy in Spain, they guarantee high security, while space is certainly not at a premium. El Madronal and La Zagaleta have the benefit of easy access to the AP7 motorway, while Marbella Club is close to Benahavis village. Described as the ‘Jewel in the Crown’ of the Costa del Sol, Zagaleta offers owners the cachet of living in one of the most exclusive residences in Europe. House prices range from €3 million to €32 million in a range of styles from modern Andalucian to highly contemporary. The country club offers two private golf courses, only for use by members and their guests, superb riding stables with exercise facilities, tennis courts and two clubhouses. As some of the original owners from 20 to 25 years ago move on, they are being replaced by a younger generation looking for their private escape to an environment of tranquility and relaxation. That Benahavis should be home to three such wonderful estates is remarkable, but not surprising. The amazing weather and the proximity to everything that Marbella offers truly make them a twelve month destination. For more information on properties for sale visit www. AylesfordSpain.com or contact the team at sales@aylesfordspain.com or on 610 842 774
Mountain pure Continued from previous page
Kremlin has never confirmed it. Where celebrities lead, classy dining follows and today there are so many top-rated restaurants in the village it’s been dubbed the Dining Room of the Costa del Sol. But not all its riches are counted in cash. Its wild scenery, jaw-dropping views and natural rock pools watered by the crystal clear Guadalmina river are among a wealth of natural attractions that are totally free of charge.
Lungfulls of pure mountain we arrived. Set in the grounds air are also on the house al- of the chapel, stalls selling though it’s a huff and a puff art, tribal masks, household up cobbled nicknacks and streets to the recycled clotop of this bestthes stretch in kept pueblo Arabic stronghold a landscape of hung with painbric-a-brac as crowned by ted flower pots, far as the eye and ornamencan see. It’s 11th Century ted with stylish worth a rumMontemayor street lanterns, mage you fountains and could find some castle viewing points. of Rod’s old On Sundays the cast-offs! There effort is doubly are even food worth it for the flea market trucks for al-fresco dining if which was in full flow when you feel peckish.
Walking around the village is a free history tour that will take you back to Moorish times, evidenced by the winding streets of this former Arabic stronghold crowned by 11th Century Montemayor castle, overlooking vast swathes of the Costa del Sol. The village takes its name from its first wealthy resident, Havis (Benahavis means son of Havis in Arabic), a Moorish prince who once ruled from the castle. But it wasn’t always a good place to live. The fortress was reconquered by the Catholic monar-
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chs around the 15th century FAMOUS FACES: Crisbut war broke out between tiano Ronaldo took a Benahavis and Marbella and holiday last summer, raged on for 350 years until while Tony Blair has the village gained its indepen- been a visitor. dence. POWERBROKERS: The Goldsmith clan Although several kilometres (top Ben and Zac) and (above) Sir Jafrom the coast in the foothills mes and his former guest Lady Diana of the Serrania de Ronda, water babies will love Benahavis as the Rio Guadalmina is with the gallery after he arri- on the ‘must visit’ list handed one of its coolest natural at- ved.” Marshall headed to to me by OP editor Jon Clarke tractions. Take a river ramble Benahavis for the tranquility, and he wasn’t wrong. I choalong its banks, go wild swim- away from the bright lights of se from the vegetarian menu ming in one of the deep rock the coast. Among his many (although the meat dishes pools or try canyoning along commissions, he now designs also looked divine), opting the Canon de Las Angostu- the awards for celebrity Eva for mushroom croquettes foras. Not for the faint-hearted, Longoria’s cha- llowed by spinach and melted the 50-metre rity foundation, cheese crepe. With entertaindescent starts along with gol- ment from a Mariachi band at Charca de Guadalmina, fing trophies. followed by an impromptu pialas Mozas - a the nine no performance, it went down an easy family With popular picnic golf courses a treat. Señor Manolo himself spot south of s u r r o u n d i n g insisted I finish with a chupiwalking route the water tower Benahavis, it’s to while he explained how he roundabout of around four a thriving busi- personally decorated the alluthat’s become ness venture. ring interior, graced with an kilometres the unofficial But the entire arty mural of flower pots. swimming bavillage is an That evening I chatted to Maths. Dive in open air art rianne and Jerry who moved there’s no charge! gallery, littered with poetic to the area on the strength Parts of the river were chan- quotes from Shakespeare, of one dinner chez Manolos. nelled by the Arabs in order Blake and Sabines to educa- “We came for a meal and loto supply farmhouses and te and inspire walkers as they ved the mountain feel and orchards. These routes have wander through the winding the walks, the air is easier to since been adapted for hi- streets. Camilo Jose Cela breathe here,” said Marianne. king with the addition of a plaza is named after the Spa- Jerry appreciated the choice suspension bridge over the nish author and Nobel prize of tapas bars and lack of tacAngosturas canyon, opening winner, highlighting the local ky souvenir shops. up the Sendero Acequia del affection for literary figures. The chance to do a bit of celeGuadalmina, an easy family However, with all its wealth of brity spotting is, of course, the walking route of around four natural beauty and designer icing on the cake. Tony Blair kilometres. But everywhere charm, it’s the gastronomic owns a pad nearby (allegedyou look, there are new trails artistry that attracts hungry ly), and the wealthy Goldsmith to be discovered. visitors in droves. family are also frequent visi“You can walk for ages here,” This tiny village boasts a cor- tors. The financier and tycoon enthuses resident Charlotte nucopia of top restaurants Sir James Goldsmith spent Wakerley. “And I especially - Trip Advisor lists over 100. the weeks before his death enjoy spending time at the Your only proin 1997 at his rock pool or at the reservoir.” blem is decifarmhouse and Present day Benahavis really ding where to his sons Ben only began to take shape wi- eat. I suggest A rhubarb and and Nat and thin the last 60 years as one starting with sister Jemina apple crumble local reminisced. “When I a well-deserKahn still come left the village in the 1950’s ved cafe con - not the typical for holidays. it was very small with only leche after the They often around 300 residents...on my winding drive order for a food bring famous return after about 60 years, through the guests, but connoisseur the town had grown to around G u a d a l m i n a few can trump 8,000!” One local celebrity gorge where the occasional who helped to put the village you can flick guest of their on the Google map is Scotti- through the list on your phone dad - one Lady Diana , who sh sculptor David Marshall and pick your place. My first stayed on a few occasions. whose work graces many high choice was Las Canas Viejas Mostly, these famous resiend homes and can be seen for a rhubarb and apple crum- dents keep a low profile, hearound the village. ble - not the typical order for licoptering back and forth “My father was the first fo- a food connoisseur but so- to their palatial La Zagaleta reigner to arrive here in 1973 metimes we expat Brits crave mansions where the tight when he started working from a sweet taste of home. The security lockdown buys them a small workshop,” explains restaurant fits the bill on the the privacy they seek. But his daughter Kristi who works savoury front too with its full even that is a privilege occaat the David Marshall gallery English breakfasts and tradi- sionally worth sacrificing for in Plazoleta Camilo Jose Cela tional Sunday roasts. a moment in Benahavis - and . “He helped to design the An evening cena at La Escale- for a reminder, perhaps, that small Aldea complex along ra de Manolo Espada was also the best things in life are free.
VARIETY: From second hand market to village wedding to river walk
The Voice was forced to wait for his big day THE Olive Press revealed exclusively in 2014 that 'People's tenor' Russell Watson was left to wait nervously for 50 minutes when his new bride, Louise Harris, 33, arrived nearly an hour late for his Benahavis wedding. Not one - but two - vintage Rolls Royces failed to arrive at the allotted time to pick up his bride, and she arrived at 1.50pm rather than 1pm. Fortunately for the opera star - who sang just days before in the Colosseum of Rome with Andrea Bocelli - his bride, 21 years his junior, finally arrived at Benahavis Church in a third Rolls Royce. The 63 guests heard two readings during the 20-minute service and then gave, naturally, a rousing rendition of All things bright and beautiful.
BIG DAY: Olive Press pic of Russel Watson’s wedding He is, after all, the man behind The Voice, the UK's biggest-selling classical album of all time and has sold over seven million albums worldwide. "You could clearly hear Russell's voice ringing out over the assembled throng," said
church warden Bernardo Gallagher. Watson has been a long-time visitor to Benahavis and has occasionally even been coaxed to sing while on a night out in the town (see Dining Room of the Costa later).
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Presidential perfect PALACE: The €20m mansion linked to Putin and (left) visitors Hugh Grant and Rod Stewart
‘SECRETIVE’, ‘exclusive’ and ‘elite’ – words that perfectly describe La Zagaleta, said to be Europe’s most expensive residential estate and country club. It is home to some of the world’s richest businessmen, oligarchs and celebrities, up in the hills above Benahavis and with all-encompassing views along the Costa del Sol and out to Gibraltar and Africa. Surrounded by rumours and jealousy – and one of the world’s slickest security operations – Zagaleta has the mysterious allure of a place that is both known, yet completely unknown. The longest-running rumour (rumbling around for nearly eight years since it was first reported by the Olive Press)
Swimming in riches and swirling with rumours, it’s easy to see how Zagaleta is known as ‘Europe’s most exclusive development’ with allegedly Putin as an owner is that Russian president its own separate champagne Vladimir Putin owns a €20 section, and the highest semillion palace within its bor- curity of any of the houses in ders. the estate. The soaring “Zagaleta almansion, sitready has the ting atop its It already has the best security very own peak, Spain but best security in in counts on when there’s three underSpain but when a certain perground floors, son at home, Putin comes it a garage for you can’t bedozens of cars lieve how tight goes haywire and a 200m things get and shooting range, it has its own revealed Olive security within Press sources. security,” explains one. It also has a wine cellar, with The property was later re-
Organic growth
vealed to be owned by a group taking a dip in their infinity of six incredibly wealthy men, pools and then banging off a with Putin a firm favourite to few rounds of golf (or guns). be the biggest player. They include a range of seUnofficially the cretive figures, world’s richsuch as the est man, he former mayor After his fall certainly owns of Moscow as many properfrom Grace for well as Orange ties outside Telecom foundarms dealing, Russia and, er Hans Snook, according to the estate was ex CEO of Starofficial travel wood Hotels confiscated documents, he Jurgen Bartels was a long time and Lord Stanvisitor to the ley Fink, the Costa del Sol on dozens of former Conservative Party occasions before becoming treasurer. president. And let’s not forget Athina What is for sure though is Onassis, whose family have a that this 2,200-acre enclave home on the borders, as well is exactly the kind of place as Hugh Grant, Cristian Ronone could imagine a Russian aldo and Rod Stewart, who president residing. have either owned, rented or Flying in by helicopter, before visited in the leafy enclave.
Golfing hotspot
IT’S been a busy six years for boss Javier at Benahavis’ dynamic organic supermarket. Family-run Chipolino Natural has grown rapidly and now stocks supermarkets around the region and even further afield. In store there is an impressive range of products: from dairy to pet food, toothpaste to wine, fresh bread to frozen fish. Everything in the shop, just two kilometres up the Ronda road, is certified organic and comes from over 100 suppliers, mainly local - especially its fruit and vegetables. It also has an extensive variety of gluten-free and vegan products, plus many from the UK and abroad, and serves dozens of similar eco-shops all around Andalucia. The multi-lingual team is hard working and knowledgeable and we promise: if we can’t find it we will get it for you. Visit www.chipolinonatural.es for more information
THE gently sloping foothills of the Serrania de Ronda and glistening sea views make Benahavis the ideal location for a round of golf - as nine stunning courses can testify. With more than 320 sunny days per year, golf is played in all seasons, and more often than not in polo shirt and shorts. Clubs such as Los Flamingos, Atalaya and La Quinta boast more than 18 holes. While the village itself is now home to its own driving range and hosts regular tournaments on its courses. The spectacular courses were designed by renowned golf architects such as Robert Trent Jones and golfing legends including Seve Ballesteros and Jack Nicklaus. In 1991, the Benahavis Golf Club was founded, aiming to get residents playing at their local course for a reasonable price, even the luxurious fairways in La Zagaleta.
The villas vary dramatically, from elegant Moorish designs with sea views to new modern builds surrounded by forest, each complete with pools, gyms and jacuzzis. But the best views are found at the estate’s helipad, which allows those with the deepest pockets to land at Malaga airport in their private jet, hop on a helicopter and 10 minutes later they are sipping a cocktail by their pool. And Zagaleta certainly provides the security required to relax and unwind, with armed guards and pack dogs constantly patrolling on and off road. Every property is also directly linked to central security, meaning touching a panic button delivers the weight of Zagaleta’s forces to your doorstep within seconds. And it wouldn’t be the Costa del Sol without a stunning, top-of-the-range golf course. Well, Zagaleta has two. And there is no problem getting a tee time, as long as you have a home there, that is. The clubhouse was originally the home of disgraced former billionaire businessman Adnan Khashoggi, and he clearly had an eye for a good view. The entrance is studded with his hunting trophies – stag heads – and the communal areas are elegantly furnished. After his fall from grace for arms dealing, the estate was confiscated and then purchased by its current owners – a Spanish/Swiss consortium – in the mid 1980s. The development officially began being marketed in 1991 and has been regarded as the height of luxury living ever since. Currently around 30% of residents are British, 30% German, 15% Scandinavian and 10% Russian. So far nearly 300 or so homes have been built, but there is room for more than 400, with a new, final zone soon to be zoned at the back, below the Ronda road. With plots starting at around €3m alone, don’t expect to find anything for sale for less than €10m.
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HERE are exclusive places to stay, and then there are dreams. Staying at Alcuzcuz is to be transported back to the 19th century, when the Costa del Sol was the dream escape of wealthy European and American travellers. Part of the so-called Grand Tour these voyagers were in search of authenticity, excitement and landscapes, taking in the famous cities of Sevilla, Cordoba and Granada. Inspired by Washington Irving’s Tales of the Alhambra (1832) or Richard Ford’s Handbook for travellers in Spain (1844) they would also often stay in Gibraltar or take the unmissable trip inland to Ronda. Coming up from Marbella would take five to six hours by horse and carriage - and Alcuzcuz was the perfect place to stop and visit en route. Today, it has become one of the true gems of the modern Grand Tour, a place to seek out for those-in-the-know looking for something original and different. While it only has half a dozen rooms, it also counts on a lovely restaurant and some of the best appointed communal spaces in Andalucia. And then there is the garden, which boasts an incredible 20 hectares of grounds, a decent section formally planted with cascading terraces, hidden redoubts and one of the most beautiful pools I’ve ever seen. With stunning views inland to the Serrania de Ronda and down to Gibraltar and Africa, you could spend the day luxuriating here with a book and never get bored. In the hands of the same family for over 150 years, the house was built in 1884 for the Countess of Aguiar by her son Jaime Parlade
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Jon Clarke takes a tour of one of Andalucia’s true hidden gems to stay and eat
Heredia. While it burnt down in 1914, it was rebuilt on the same lines and again re-imagined and upgraded in 1984 by Jaime Parlade Sanjuanerna, the Marques de Apezleguia, with the help of his wife Janetta.
ATTENTION TO DETAIL: Head gardener Mohammed and snapshots of the house and gardens
The celebrated interior designer also had a key hand in the modern garden, which is overseen by head gardener Mohammed from Tangier and two able helpers. “There are well over 1000 plants here,” he told me proudly, on his regular morning rounds. “And one of our secrets is the compost and manure we use liberally around the garden.” There are hundreds of palms and pines, many over a century old, plus a special collection of mimosas and perennials. You will be amazed taking a stroll around, before taking an hour long hike around the wonderful wooded grounds that border on the exclusive La Zagaleta estate. Current owner, great grandson Andres Parlade Ybarra - who also runs an estate agency House and Country - has now cleverly managed to open the home as a hotel, but to a very restricted, selective clientele. Refusing to use any of the modern online booking platforms, most of the clients come via word of mouth, or via articles in design or travel magazines. “We want to keep it very low key and with the right sort of people who appreciate the history and style,” he explains. You will definitely feel like you are staying in an English stately home, with its big library and well appointed drawing rooms. One give-away are the 19th century bull-fighting paintings. And also look out for the portraits that flank the living room fireplace, including a 19th-century painting of Parlade’s great-grandmother. Elsewhere an old chapel has been transferred into a guest cottage, with a Guatemalan bedcover and a Moroccan wall-hanging, while the staff are both low-key and on hand exactly when you need them. And don’t forget just 100m up the road you will find the Alcuzcuz Gallery restaurant, which doubles as an antiques shop, art gallery and excellent traditional Spanish restaurant. Visit www.alcuzcuz.es for more information
CULINARY TALENTS: Chef at Alcuzcuz Gallery restaurant
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FTER battling our way down the Rio Guadalmina, forced to leave one of our team behind, we had eventually found what appeared to be a way back to civilisation. But a series of bent metal steps jutting out of the vertical rock face had never looked less enticing, as I clutched my shaking body and scanned the cliff for an alternative. Two-and-a-half-hours before, four of us had set off just south of Benahavis on the river walk – sometimes called canyoning – with no idea what to expect. Driving up the valley towards the village gives no indication of the exhilarating, some would say hard-core, experience you are about to have.
Adventure
After parking our car in the village, by the water tower roundabout, we walked down to the river and initially hovered awkwardly around the first pool, uncertain whether we were in the right place. Finally taking control in true Bear Grylls fashion, amid shouts of ‘It’s not deep enough’ and ‘You’re going to smash head-first into that rock’, I lowered myself onto a slippery waterfall and went plunging into the murky water below, screaming as I went. As I resurfaced, shouting my approval while messily ejecting river water from my mouth, the others ditched their fears and bounded down to slide in after me, and that was it, we were off.
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Rocky river rapids The Olive Press walking team takes on the infamous Benahavis river walk, writes Tom Powell A series of open pools, bridged by slippery rocks and feisty little waterfalls took us down deeper into the gorge, until the
sun was obscured and the November chill began to take its toll on our exposed torsos. Little frogs and fish bounded
around our ankles as we tried to locate a foothold in the riverbed, while an enormous dragonfly sent me crashing when
it shocked me into losing all sense of balance. The rocky path opened up into long, deep stretches of stream
that required swimming, and we were soon engulfed in the beautifully peaceful valley. But when we came upon a
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Get Brexit ready
DAUNTING: The Benahavis river walk will put hairs on your chest pitch black cave that had to be swum through, one of our three began to raise serious questions. Questions like: ‘Are we sure this is even the right river?’, ‘Is there ever going to be a way out?’ and, most pertinent of all, ‘Are we going to have enough energy to go all the way back up when we eventually decide to turn around?’. But untroubled by negative mum-
PARADISE: Stunning scenery awaits at the end of this watery trail
blings at the back, I surged forward through the narrow passageway and emerged clambering over slimy rocks, only to realise I was well and truly alone. After what seemed like an eternity of unanswered shouts and shivering, I beat a solitary path onwards; confident I would find the end and meet the weaklings in my group back at the car.
But at that moment I was overjoyed to hear a clumsy sloshing from behind me, with only one of the team actually going back. And ten minutes later we found ourselves face to face with the questionable metal ladder, one missed step and we were dead. So instead of watching my violently shivering companion slip and slide his way up the perilous cliff
edge, I got on all fours and improvised, hauling myself up the rock using grubby handholds and tree trunks. Perhaps, in hindsight, canyoning down the river is more of a hot summer’s day activity, and a brilliant one at that. But even in the winter drizzle, it was a great adventure, and I can’t wait to do it again.
NOW Brexit has finally happened, it is more important than ever for British citizens to register as European citizens in Spain before December 31, 2020 in order to benefit from the Exit Deal Agreement signed between UK and the EU. Benahavis lawyer Paula Salamanca is the premier choice to assist you through this period of adjustment. She says: “There is no reason to panic if you are well informed by a professional when preparing for Brexit, even when many uncertainties remain, we can update you in the best way possible with information from proper sources.” Guidance and support is also offered on other questions raised by Brexit such as changing your driving licence and holiday homes. With 18 years experience working on the Costa del Sol Paula aims to bring peace of mind and satisfaction to residential and non-residential clients. Paula also offers specialised legal advice on conveyancing, wills, inheritance and property legalisation. For further information or for a competitive price for non-resident income taxes, contact Paula on 952 855 689 or head to the website at http://www.paula-salamanca. com/es/
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Hurrah for Heredia WHETHER it’s a glimpse as you climb the road to Ronda - or in its full glory as you enter the village - when you see La Heredia for the first time you’ll know it’s something special. This little known pueblo, which sits at 300m above the Med, is striking and attractive in equal measure for its architecture and colours. Dig a little deeper and the history behind it is just as interesting. The story begins when a young boy arrived in the Malaga area from Rioja around the turn of
There’s a lot more in a name than first meets the eye - enter gypsy-loving Dapper Don Heredia the 19th century. That boy Don Manual Augustine Heredia (1786-1846), becameone of the first entrepreneurs in Spain and a founding father of Spanish industrialisation. Records show he started work as a sales assistant in Vélez-Málaga at the age of 15 but by 1808 he had progressed
We’re Going Dutch SIT on a sunny terrace overlooking the beautiful Andalucian countryside while indulging in Dutch cheese and freshly baked bread. That’s what you can get at Panaderia La Heredia. A Dutch supermarket, situated on the road from Marbella to Ronda, KM 43 Benahavis Urbanization La Heredia, caters to guests from all corners of the globe. You can buy more numerous authentic Dutch products, while also being able to enjoy breakfast and lunch on their sunny terrace. They make their own fresh bread every morning and sell world famous Dutch cheese, Stompetoren. You can also find a vast selection of freshly prepared meals, including homemade soups, but also delicious pastries and cakes. Panaderia La Heredia also takes care of your culinary wishes on location. From bbq to snack buffet, their mobile team is ready for you. They are open six days a week, Monday to Saturday from 9am to 5pm.
and began to make his fortune with his first business projects trading nuts and wine with Gibraltar during the War of Independence. In 1826 he created the company La Concepción, mining iron ore to the east of Marbella and building the first blast furnaces in Spain. This business expanded in 1833 with the founding of the La Constancia in Malaga, one of the most advanced ironworks in the world at the time. Don Manuel made so much money he was able to buy a huge area of land densely forested with pine and cork trees which includes what we now know as neighbouring El Madro-
ñal (named after the strawberry trees that were once common here) and La Heredia. At his peak Sr. Heredia employed more than 2,500 people and having tried experienced Welsh miners who could not cope with the searing summer heat a large proportion of his employees were gypsies. Unfortunately not all gypsies were thought to be as hard-working and honest as those miners and in the mid 1800’s the Spanish government started to expel all who were not properly baptised with properly-registered family names. And that’s when Don Manuel had the brain wave to adopt every one of his workers officially into his family. And so the story goes he brought a priest and a notary to the offices of the Governor of Malaga, along with all of the gypsies, hundreds of
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CELEBRATED: La Heredia in a Country Life advert in 1984 them. While there he proceeded to dictate a document whereby he and his wife adopted each and every one of them, they went on to the chapel where they were duly baptised and given the Heredia name before going back to work. Fast forward five generations to the early 1980’s and two descendents decided to create a unique pueblo named in honour of their great-great-great-grandfather. The building of around 50 large villas had already begun next door at El Madroñal when Francisco (Paco) Parlade, an architect, and his brother Jaime, an interior designer, identified a horseshoe shape hill with south facing panoramic views… perfect for a classic Andalucian pueblo. “When this pueblo is finished
I would like people to look at it and wonder how many centuries it has been here,” insisted Francisco. So winding cobbled streets, plazas and fountains were introduced, alongside mahogany doors and wrought iron window rejas... and for that, like Sr. Heredia, he turned to the gypsies who scoured the local countryside. They came back with such treasures that sometimes the design of a house was changed to fit a particularly fine old door. As Francisco would always insist he wanted to make sure the place had class and style and didn’t just make him a small fortune. “After all, I live just up the road,” he said.
Adverts dutifully followed in upmarket British magazines like Country Life (see above left). Now 40 years later and the pueblo is complete, having matured beautifully into its environment with a profusion of lemon trees and bougainvillea. With its elevated position just a few kilometres from the coast La Heredia not only offers a photographers paradise, but now there are a decent number of restaurants and cafes to keep you entertained, before you take a ride further into the famous Serrania de Ronda perhaps.
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Fantastic growth in Benahavis’ ‘Ronda Road’ area again ONE part of Benahavis - on the border of San Pedro and Nueva Andalucia - is home to some of the most sought after properties on the Costa del Sol. The area is known locally as the ‘Ronda Road area’ as it sits at the beginning of the mountain road which eventually leads up to the historic town of Ronda. An exclusive district of upmarket urbanisations - including La Zagaleta, La Quinta and Los Arqueros - have grown in both popularity and prices have been healthy for the last 20 years. “2019 was a particularly strong year for the region with both prices achieved and volume of properties sold,” explains Michael Odysseas-Travers, partner at the Riva Property Group. “In fact, it surpassed all our expectations.” The area frequently attracts affluent second home owners and is home to a strong international community of expats. And owners enjoy incredible peace and nature, while being connected to many great golf courses, the beach and the amenities of nearby Marbella. “While affluent, it’s also relatively accessible to most budgets,” explains Michael. “There is a wide range of properties available – both new build and resale – and prices range from about €200k for a 2-bedroom apartment to €10 million plus for a large villa.” Visit Riva in the heart of Centro Comercial Los Halcones, next to the All in 1 Cafe. Tel: +34 952 781 886 or visit www.rivapropertygroup.com
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T bills itself as the ‘Rincon Gastronomico’ (gastronomic corner) of the Costa del Sol. So it is no surprise that you can eat well in Benahavis. Tucked away in the back streets of the charming town are up to three dozen attractive, atmospheric haunts, the best packed to the rafters at weekends. The food revolution in Benahavis began at the restaurant called Sarten (meaning frying pan) some four decades ago, sucking people in to eat authentic Andalucian dishes from the nearby coast. Its former owner Manolo Espada is luckily still around, although now at a different restaurant La Escalera, just around the corner. Now, very much an institution, it is one of the ‘must visit’ restaurants in Andalucia, with its owner Manolo one of the most likeable restaurateurs. A born comic and charmer, he is not only extremely knowledgeable about food, he knows how to entertain and welcome his guests. Expect funny stories, bouts on the piano and even magic tricks. And best of all, the restaurant is open almost every day of the year, minus the odd few days around Christmas. You also might find yourself dining next to Antonio Banderas… or British opera star Russell Watson, who is a regular visitor, who got married in the town. But you are primarily here for the food, which is both excellent and original and includes such gems as a black pudding crepe with onion and egg and a won-
Dining room Benahavis is a key gastronomic hive on the Costa del Sol, writes Jon Clarke
derful fish soup, which at €7 is a steal. His main course chestnut is his grandmother’s recipe for Iberian pork steak, which includes loads of herbs, sweet pepper and olive oil. It was delicious and, before you ask, he won’t tell you the recipe! Another place worth trying is the highly-rated Indian Spice restaurant, which sits in the best square in the town and has an excellent reputation. It is run by Shaheen, who heralds from god’s own Kerala, but who studied in the UK and Spain, before setting up his own restaurant here. It has an excellent mixed menu including all you would expect from an Indian, such as onion bhajees, a great range of biryanis and a proper chicken vindaloo. There is even a Sunday roast with a difference. Another place worth considering in the village is the restaurant in Hotel Amanhavis, which has a
good reputation for its fresh and original cooking. It is a charming spot and has a nice range of rooms to stay in once you have had a blow out.
Run by the same couple, Burkhard and his American wife Leslie, for over 20 years, you are in safe hands. I particularly like the pan-fried
33 February 19th - March 3rd 2020
of the Costa Melting pot
LEGENDS: Tucker and owner (above) at La Escalera, while (right) a room at Amanhavis and Indian Spice
Still at No.1 Goose Liver on home-made brioche with prune-apple sauce, not to mention the Astronomer’s Observatory room for a decent siesta.
YOU would be hard pressed to find a regular visitor to the ‘Ronda Road’ area of Benahavis who doesn’t know about the All in 1 Cafe. An incredible 16 years after opening, it now sits as the crown in the centre of a bustling strip of upmarket restaurants, bars and shops. And owner Tenes Mertens could not be clearer on the key to his success. “Always listen to feedback – especially from your regular customers and never stop innovating,” he explains. This involved a big investment in the kitchen last year with a ‘Josper’ indoor charcoal-burning oven as well as more live music (particularly on Friday and Sunday evenings) with a new stage area built. Open seven days a week from 9am, it serves up a mixture of European and Asian inspired dishes and there is a great value lunch menu, with a different 3-course menu available each weekday from 1pm – 4pm for just €10,95. Visit facebook.com/allin1cafespain for all the latest information or call 952 78 93 15 to reserve. www.allin1cafe.com
“GOLF, gastronomy, hikes, along with cultural events, there is something for everyone.” That is how Benahavis Culture Councillor Mari Angeles Mena (above) describes her idyllic hilltop pueblo. “People visit the town as it is a great location, close to all amenities but far enough that it is secluded,” she says. Gastronomy is a major attraction, with many top-rated restaurants and the local cooking school for those who fancy trying their hand at the town’s traditional culinary delights. After enjoying the mountain air on a relaxing stroll why not enjoy a more spirited and flamboyant experience at one of the various parties and festivals in the Benahavis cultural calendar. Carnaval on February 22 will see you slap on the face paint and join in costume contests, as Benahavis becomes awash with colour. Easter weekend brings the traditional Huerto del Niño festival which has taken place for hundreds of years. If you enjoy fancy dress, then head up the mountain on April 25 for an American-themed fancy dress festival which culminates culture week. Culture week has an amalgamation of events, plays, concerts and activities for little ones. Benahavis, with all its quirks brings visitors from Spain and further afield, including Russia, China, the United States and Canada. Some 70% of Benahavis residents are expats, making Benahavis the perfect melting pot for a multicultural break.