Ronda November 2022

BY the time of the collapse of the Arabic empire in 1485, Ronda had been en tertaining foreign visitors for not far off 1500 years.

One of Spain’s oldest towns, in Roman times it had a thriving wine industry and even its own mint, fittingly its coins bearing a tendril of grapes.

Established in 9BC as a military bastion, it was given the name ‘Arunda’ meaning ‘surrounded by

mountains’ and it is easy to see why. Take a pew at any of the mon uments dotted around the town and chances are you will see doz ens of faraway peaks that literally ring the town, from the National Park of Sierra de las Nieves on one side to the Parque Natural of Grazalema on the other.

Ronda is a true front row seat to history with these nearby moun

S errania de Ronda

tains literally swollen with an cient remains.

They include the Roman sister settlement of Acinipo with its wonderful amphitheatre, as well as the ancient salt mines of the Cerro de las Salinas and the historic wine storage village of Setenil de las Bodegas. Then you’ve got the remains of a Roman aqueduct running south of the town, the hidden Arabic baths in the Llano de la Cruz valley, and the recent discovery of a Roman grape-treading floor for winemaking near Arriate.

Uncovered at a vineyard, called Morosanto, archaeolo gists have excavated a sizable 2000-year old wine operation with pipes through which wine was transported to vats.

The remarkable find, alongside a 21-metre Roman swimming pool and sauna, means histori ans are now able to definitively link the production of wine in Ronda to 3AD.

No surprise then, that so many writers and historical figures have waxed lyrical about Ron da… Austrian writer Rilke dubbed it the ‘City of Dreams’, while Orson Welles relocated to Ronda and immersed himself

ROMANTIC ESCAPE

in bullfighting, later having his ashes scattered at a nearby estate.

Ernest Hemingway’s tome, The Dangerous Summer, is largely about Ronda’s bullfighting dy nasty, the Ordonez family, while in Death in the Afternoon he wrote: “It is where you should go if you ever go to Spain on a honeymoon or ever bolt with anyone. The en tire town and as far as you can see in any direc tion is a romantic backdrop.”

It is why Carmen the movie was filmed here and why Madonna insisted she had to film a video around its cobbled streets.

It’s also why Adrian Brody, Anne Hathaway, Bill Gates, Ricky Gervais and Jodie Whittaker have all had recent holidays in the town, while celebrity chefs Jamie Oliver and Gordon Ram say dedicated episodes of their TV shows to Ronda.

Celebrity chefs have such a

pull to the town that handsome whiz in the kitchen Jean Chris tophe Novelli once told me he was moving to Ronda, but af ter two months was unable to find the right property to buy (he was probably more likely shacking up with a mistress).

And then there is Benito Go mez, a classic blow-in from Catalunya, who has done so well in the town that he now boasts two Mi chelin stars with his amazing restaurant Bar dal.

But, take my word as a lo cal - who chose this mountain hideout over the bright lights of Marbella or Malaga some two decades ago - while it is magical in so many ways, Ronda is also an incredi bly tough place to settle.

The extremes of weather (its spiky dry heat in summer and freezing winters thanks to its altitude of 800m) doesn’t suit everyone.

CHAIRMAN JULIO: Ronda’s olde worlde charm couldn’t be better personified than by chairmaker Julio Sanz. Alongside one of his oldest friends, he sits on a wall in the old town, as he has done for decades, weaving his raffia magic

PHOTOS BY JON CLARKE

GEOGRAPHY: Ronda was founded by the Romans on a steep gorge

WELL PRESERVED: The 11th century Arabic Baths and (right) well fortified eastern gate.

Jamie Oliver and Gordon Ramsay filmed TV shows in Ronda

From front

Equally its inward-looking lo cals, so typical of conservative mountain types the world over, are not openly friendly and take a while to warm to you. But there is no denying its landscape, history and archi tecture.

Few places in Spain have such a wonderful mix of buildings, from the Moorish Palacio Mon dragon to the neoclassical town halls and from the Arabic baths to the splendid Renais sance mansion the Palacio del Marques de Salvatierra. And don’t forget the cathedral (once a mosque) as well as the oldest bullring in the country. Still owned by the Ordonez fam ily, with two fitting statues to toreros Antonio and Cayetano outside, is an excellent intro duction to a pastime that goes back 300 years in Ronda.

Built by the godfather of bull fighting Pedro Romero, who fought well into his 80s and was painted by Francisco Goya, it is worthwhile to visit just for its collection of Goya etchings alone.

A must-visit is the 13th century Casa del Rey Moro, which was a highlight of Michelle Obama’s visit to Ronda a few years back. The former President’s wife even took the 300 slippery spi ralling steps to reach the bot tom of a siege tunnel, used as an escape route during times of siege.

By navigating the ‘la Mina’ staircase down to the bottom of the gorge, she was really getting a true understanding of what makes this mountain town so wonderful.

For down at the bottom by the River Guadalevin - with the steep walls of the famous Tajo towering above, and rooks and swallows swooping around -

you truly step back in time. The tunnel was originally carved out by Christian slaves to get water during the reign of Ron da’s Moorish king, Abomelik. It would have been a wonderful time to be a traveller arriving in Ronda, particularly at the near by Arabic baths.

The 11th century Banos Arabes are among the best preserved in Spain and offer the best ex planation of the sophistication of the former Arabic inhabi tants, who ruled for an incredi ble 700 years until the late 15th century around these parts.

A superb demonstration of ur ban planning, the baths sit in atmospheric gardens and have three rooms - hot, cold and tep id - each fed with water from the river outside.

The domed ceilings with their star-shaped air vents were part of a complex astronomical sym bolism so popular in Moorish times. The baths were the main hammam and lay just outside the defensive walls by the main gate to the town from the direc tion of Granada.

A clever virtual reality video, in both Spanish and English, brings the past back to life and is a must-watch, before con tinuing your tour up the hill into the old town.

DAREDEVIL: Jumping into the Tajo river and (below) the town hall

errania de Ronda

Old town, new life

RONDA is one of those places that stands alone. Completely alone.

One of the oldest cities in Spain, it’s a destination that simply cannot be compared to anywhere else in the country, or indeed the world.

It’s less than an hour from the coast and the beach resorts of the Costa del Sol, but it feels like you’ve traveled to an en tirely new world.

It certainly feels like you’ve traveled back in time as you walk the cobble-stoned streets, lined with whitewashed homes, old mansions and honey-coloured sand stone churches.

This ‘pueblo blanco’ was first settled by the Phoenicians and the Celts in the sixth century B.C, giving the town its original name of Arunda

After the Romans came and went it was inhabited by the Moors when Visigoth struc tures were replaced by Muslim mosques and buildings.

Many still remain, almost in tact, such as the celebrated Arabic baths and the Mon dragon palace, once home to the Moorish king Abomelic Abd al-Malik.

They were behind the splendid city walls that were later devel oped and fortified when the Christians took the city back in the 15th century.

But neither the walls, nor the city’s gates, needed to be the best…Ronda’s unique geog raphy meant it was always pretty secure in the event of an invasion. The old city (the really fortified part) stood on a rocky outcrop, some 2,460 feet above sea level and with a huge vertical drop thanks to the Guadalevin river that runs through the city, dividing it into two and carving out the steep 120-metre-deep El Tajo canyon.

It means that only one side of the ‘casco historico’ could be practically attacked, with three sides far too steep (or vertical).

Ronda’s rich history and impressive natural beauty means it has, rightfully, be come a centerpiece of tourism in Andalucia, and Spain.

Thousands flock to the histori cal city each day and stare in awe at the huge drop below from the Puente Nuevo bridge that now links the old town with the new, commercial centre. Looking out towards the hori zon is a magical scene that has inspired the greatest art ists and writers of all time.

Known as the 19th century viajeros romanticos (romantic travellers) the likes of Orson Welles, Alexander Dumas and Ernest Hemingway searched for inspiration in Europe’s most unspoilt destinations. And they found it in Ronda; the sun breaking through the mist in the mornings, sweeping val leys with citrus and olive trees, and white houses along the ridge above - the city is a place of beauty and intrigue.

Hemingway spent many sum mers in Ronda, and his fa mous novel For Whom the Bell Tolls actually featured

a climatic scene

One of Hemingway’s char acters recounts how various fascists and a priest from the city were taken into the Pla za de España and beaten by the townspeo ple, then killed before being thrown into the gorge.

More recently, in 2010, Michelle Obama, the wife of former US President Barack Obama, visited Ronda as part of a five-day tour of Spain.

On a visit this month, it was clear winter was closing in and you could feel it in the air. It was frigid, but the spirit of the locals was nothing of the sort.

“You’ll love it here,” exclaimed a waiter at El Retiro. “I see it over and over, everyone who comes here, always comes back.”

I got a table at the crammed cerveceria for lunch on Satur day afternoon, and was rec ommended the carrillada

The braised beef cheeks are a town favourite, and it hit

the spot on a chilly after noon.

The waiter, Ronda-born Faustino Per alta, did not only inspire with such pride for his hometown, but recom mended a meat dish you’ll want to cook at home this winter.

Walking through the city in the cooler sea son is a bit different, the terraces are empty but

that doesn’t mean the fiesta is over.

A couple of streets down from the picturesque main square Plaza de Socorro, singing and chanting could be heard.

I followed the song up a nar row alleyway and into a tiny bar where a group of about 20 people were huddled around singing local flamenco stan dards.

The group of friends from Ca diz started clap ping ferociously, until breaking out into song and belting out lyrics to Lolita’s Sarandonga.

The bartender poured shots of lemon liquor as the singing died down, but when someone at the back started shouting ‘otra, otra, otra!’ It kicked off again.

Ronda is also home to Spain’s oldest bullfighting ring. De clared a Site of Cultural Inter est, construction on the ring began in 1780 and finished five years later.

This deep and controversial tradition has been kept alive over the centuries in places like Ronda. It is not hard to see why, with so many bars and restaurants steeped in its history.

It is here that modern bullfight ing began. And this is how: King Phillip II of Spain found ed the Real Maestranza de Caballería de Ronda in 1572, a government body dedicated to the handling of the Spanish cavalry.

An equestrian facility was built, and one of the main ex ercises the horses were made to do was dodging drills where bulls were used as obstacles. Bullfighting developed this way, originally on horseback, and evolved when local lad, Pedro Romero, jumped off his horse and decided to fight a bull ‘on foot’.

Aside from the fact he ended up building the wonderful bull ring, you can feel his influence everywhere, from photos and

Perched atop steeping mountains and 2,460 feet above sea level, Ronda is tricky to get to but worth the effort , writes Anthony Piovesan

inspired by real life events that occurred in Ronda during the Spanish Civil War.

SOUL MATES: Hemingway and Ordonez beca me close friends

‘I see it over and over, everyone who comes here, comes back’

statues, and even a restaurant named after him.

He was a successful chap and allegedly ended up owning around ten houses in the town.

In the 20th century celebrated bullfighter Antonio Ordoñez, who was born in Ronda, be came a star of the sport in his own backyard.

Hemingway watched him per

form one day, and actually based one of his novels, Death in the afternoon, on Ordoñez.

When the sun starts to de scend behind the surrounding mountain tops, you’ll want to nurse a nice red wine as the cold settles in for the evening.

Luckily plenty come from the nearby landscape.

The staff at Taberna El Alma

cen are armed with knowledge about local wines and will rec ommend a great drop to go with your selection of tapas.

After your meal, it’s worth braving the cold for night views of this sensational city.

Ronda almost takes on a com pletely different form in the darkness.

The Puente Nuevo is complete

ly illuminat ed from top to bottom, there are parties in Ronda’s lit tle-known back street bars where you could poke in for a night cap, and

you’ll be en chanted by the silence and the tangerine glow of the streetlamps.

Ronda might be an old town, but it’ll breathe new life into you.

Former prime minister of the United Kingdom Benjamin Dis raeli put it so poetically back in 1852 on one of his many visits to the charming city: “The air of the mountains, the rising sun, the rising appetite, the variety of picturesque per sons and things we met, and the impending danger, made a delightful life.”

marybeker@gmail.com www.marybeker.com

DELIGHTFUL LIFE: So said Prime Minister Disraeli after one of his many visits often crossing the Puente Nuevo

S errania de Ronda

SECRET SERRANIA

PREACHING THE BLUES FANNING ITS FORTUNE

WHILE it’s about as stunning as any of the pretty villages around Ronda, there is one big difference with Juzcar… it’s blue. This is thanks to the Smurf movie that in 2011 decided to use the tiny village as the mythical base of the tiny creatures. It has been used a handful of times since and voted to stay blue some years back. But apart from the many attractions for kids, based around the movie, it is also the perfect place for a walk and to see Griffon vultures and crag martins.

WOOLY WONDERS

CAVEMEN COLONY

AN hour walk from Ronda will take you to one of the most stunning nat ural sites, the Cueva de Abanico (the Fan Cave). Near here celebrated flamenco star Estrella Morente, and husband bullfighter Javier Conde were planning to build a hotel and it is no surprise why. This is one of the most beautiful walks imaginable, with bits of Roman road to discover, ruined towers and then the amazing cave and river at the end.

Nestled in the rolling landscape, 20 minutes out of Ron da, it was built around a series of caves, which served to keep the wines of the Romans cool in summer, hence its name. It is best to leave your car out side the town, wander up to the old fortress before head ing down to the famous over hanging

ROMAN RONDA

THE Serrania was once a ma jor stronghold for bandoleros (bandits) and the tiny towns of Benaojan and Montejaque were famously where many holed up. But there is much more, such as the Cue va de la Pileta, near Montejaque (left), which has the oldest cave paintings in

From bandit hideouts to Roman wine cellars, there is so much to see and do close to Ronda, writes Jon Clarke

RONDA is surrounded, the Sierra de las Nieves and the Sierra de Grazalema, not to mention its very own breathtaking Serrania These surrounding hills are creaking with wonderful walks and pretty towns and villages to visit, all easy to reach in the car and most with their own excellent places to stay and eat. Here are a few top picks for a trip out of Ronda.

THE historic Roman town of Setenil de las Bode gas is a real eye opener and amazing for photography.

cave for a fine tapas lunch.

A15-minute drive from Ronda takes

you

to

the

ancient

city of Acinipo, where the

Romans

built another

ancient

settlement. The highest hill for miles around, it still has much evidence of their skills with a large part of its amphitheatre intact and a lot more to look at, not to mention the views. The visitor centre is only open for the morning, but one can always climb up to the amphitheatre out of hours.

Spain, while Benaojan is the centre of the ham and sausage industry. There is also a fabulous walk from Benaojan Estacion down the river to Jimera de Libar, from where you can get the train back. At each end is a great lunch spot, with hotel Molino del Santo, when open in season, the obvious pick.

ZAHARA and Grazalema (above) are two of the most evocative towns around Ronda. Both set in spectacular scenery and with some lovely sites, Zahara has a towering castle above it and a great restaurant Al Lago, while Grazalema (a beautifully conserved gem) was once the centre of the wool industry and you can still buy delightful rugs and bedspreads.

Keeping history alive

WANT to get an idea what life was like in Andalucia 5,000 years ago?

Well, at the Algaba education centre just outside Ronda, you have the perfect opportunity. Through its hauntingly realis tic prehistoric village you learn about how our forefathers crea ted fire, ground their bread, as well as decorated their homes. You can even find out what they did with their dead.

“We teach people about an cient Mediterranean ecosys tems because this land has

been occupied from prehistoric times to the present day,” exp lains owner Juan Terroba (pictu red top left).

Algaba’s work also includes research and teachings on the geology and ornithology of the area, as well as acting as a rare breeds centre for endangered

cows.

These include the Spanish Pajuna – of which there are just 500 left (above)– as well as the Andalucian Cardena, which in the early 90s had been redu ced to just seven individuals. Thanks to the work of organisa tions like Algaba, there are now

around 200 Cardenas. Guests and groups can come and stay at the centre’s resto red 250-year-old finca. “It is certainly a place where people can come and get away from it all”.

www.algabaderonda.com

VIVE ANDALUCIA

YOU can’t miss Plaza del Sorroco in Ronda, a large white and green flag of Andalucia stands beside a statue of a semi-naked Hercules with two lions by his side.

The significance is Andalucian independence, pushed by the father of Andalucian nationalism, Blas Infante, who founded the Assembly of Ron da in 1918.

The proud Andalucian politi cian unfurled the flag while standing on the first floor of the balcony of the Circulo de Artistas, the building behind the flag.

The establishment of this national movement eventu ally led to Andalucia officially being recognised as one of Spain’s national communities on February 28 in 1980.

Andalucia Country Houses – Architectural and Project Management Services CASA DEL RIO BOHO CHIC RETREAT – Rennovated and Rebranded By Ach

FOR SALE – 9 BEDROOM RIVERSIDE INN – 795,000€ WITH BEAUTIFUL RIVER AND COUNTRYSIDE VIEWS, GARDENS AND TERRACES.

Also included are the owners separate accommodation. – a lovely 3 bedroom, 2 bathroom townhouse with large terraces, small garden area and stunning river views. A turnkey operation!

This former hotel and restaurant, El Gecko, used to be a popular destination for holiday makers and weekend breakers from the Coast. Karen and Victoria Pedrazzini, the owners of ACH decided to step in and invest in this special little property, during the covid year 2020, they set about restoring the place, rebranding it and opening in April 2021 as an upmarket B&B. 2 season’s later, and with very healthy trading accounts, the newly branded Casa del Rio Boho Chic Retreat is for sale.

CREATION: Juan Terroba was inspired to build an ancient village

Exploring the Andalucia of 5000 years ago, writes Dilip Kuner

errania de Ronda

Secret Paradise

UMBERTO was raised in this hid den valley between Montejaque and Villaluenga, two tiny villages in the heart of the mountains near Ronda.

And like so many youngsters born in the area he wanted more from his life than sheep and olive trees, leaving for the greener pastures of London and later Amsterdam.

But after a decade, he started to sour on the stresses of city life and couldn’t imagine growing older and starting a family there.

“I found myself dreaming of the silence and the stars over my old house in the Serrania,” he explains. “I missed the an imals, the smells. But I had to leave to finally appreciate it. Now I love it again.”

Umberto and girlfriend, Laura, from Brazil, decided to try living on the land once again. But this time with a twist: With his new command of English and French and degrees in marketing, they would invite foreigners and tourists to their campo to keep things interesting. They named it ‘Secret Paradise’ and went about marketing it locally and or ganically.

To experience this wonderful place you need to head to Montejaque, where you

will pile into Umberto’s hulking old Toyo ta Land Cruiser.

From there it’s rough dirt tracks over a small mountain and into a verdant val ley dotted with ancient almond, cork and olive trees and peppered with flocks of sheep.

At one dry riverbed you come across an amazing stone bridge built in 1650 when Napoleon’s troops invaded Spain and met 200 locals, who allegedly fought them off.

Some 20 minutes later we are at the gate of Umberto’s house where Lolo, a hunting dog, greets us, along with Kiara, a Spanish Mastiff the size of a lineback er.

Laura greets us at the house guiding

us to a shady terrace while Umberto’s mother Rosa stands in an apron off to the side.

“Welcome to my Secret Paradise,” an nounces Umberto “Relax, enjoy the hot tub, the hammock, hang out. Anybody want a drink?”

Paella

As well as water and beer, there is local wine, both red and white, while Rosa and Laura have been busy cooking a wonderful paella over a wide butane stovetop.

There are bowls of fresh bread, served with olive oil made on the estate and just as we start tucking in suddenly Lolo

comes running past in hot pur suit of a full-grown deer.

It all happens in a rush, but amazingly ends when the fullgrown deer stops abruptly at the table. “This is Celine,” Umberto explains. “She is a very nice deer. We raised her like the dogs since she was small, be cause her mother abandoned her.”

As we pet this wonderful crea ture, out come

half a dozen more dishes.

Sliced tomatoes covered in garlic, parsley and more olive oil. Queso Payoyo, a soft goat cheese. It is all delicious. Next up is the paella, its golden arroz, flecked with the greens of broccoli and peppers and peas and artichokes; the reds of saffron and pepper. As we eat, chickens, goats and dogs pass under the table, while ducks sit on chairs behind us flapping their wings and wagging their tails.

Two hours after the bac chanal had begun, all of us could be found strung out over every available surface; some on bench es, a few on hammocks,

others in reclining deck chairs. All lightly groaning with full bellies as the menag erie rotated among us.

Laura and Umberto come out the back door and take stock, their hands on their hips. “Wow, you’re all useless now. But just one more thing,” he says. Soon the two of them are passing out shot glasses.

Secret Paradise is available to groups of

Starck contrast

HE’S

2 to 15 people for lunch or dinner. Pric es vary from about 15-30 euros per per son, which includes transportation from nearby Montejaque. Umberto and Laura also organize walking tours of the area.

For more information, call or WhatsApp +34 628 38 69 03, or email ummberto.rodriguez93@ gmail.com

best known for designing the logo for the Olympics and furniture and household objects. Now French legend Philippe Starck is branching out into Ronda, opening a giant olive mill and museum. And before you say what’s the point? It will be dedi cated to ecological agriculture and organic olive oil. Now, finally taking shape, after almost a decade of legal wrangling with the town hall, it is certainly go ing to become a key landmark on one side of Ron da’s Llano de la Cruz valley.

Head deep into the Andalucian outback for an experience most urban dwellers can only dream of, writes Jason Luban

FEAST: Umberto serves up the paella while (below) Celine the deer says hello

ALL MINE: Umberto surveying his giant estate

Focus on A rriate

LAND THAT TIME FORGOT

A winter’s trip to Arriate guarantees great walks, landscapes and food, writes Jon Clarke

IT feels like the Land that Time Forgot as you drop deeper and deeper into the hidden gorge above the village of Arriate.

Among a rich and diverse canopy of trees and under growth lies a secret world of ruined olive mills, cave hous es and ancient burial sites.

Easily one of Andalucia’s

most interesting walks, Ar royo de la Ventilla (above) is reasonably well signposted with plenty of information panels pointing out the rich flora and fauna, as well as the dozens of rare birds that inhabit its wild expanses. Best of all though, unlike its nearby neighbour, the famous Tajo gorge of Ron da, you are unlikely to meet anyone circumnavigating its leafy circular path. Few peo ple know of the Arriate cous in that may be narrower, but more than makes up for in foliage.

Starting at Arriate cemetery, you have a choice of walking the path either clockwise or anti-clockwise and the entire route takes little more than an hour.

Friendly

This gives you plenty of time to explore the typical white village below, that is the very definition of the Andalucian vernacular, formed at the confluence of two rivers in a wide open plain.

Dubbed some years back as the ‘People’s Republic of Ar riate’ for its left-wing political leanings, which has seen the IU communist party or PSOE socialists in power since Franco’s death in 1975, it is without a doubt one of the friendliest villages in Anda lucia.

It is no surprise to learn then, that in the run up to the civ il war in 1936, the town’s defence committee was run by anarchists, who with the CNT had the strongest trade union in the area.

COLOURFUL: The Romeria, while (top) Fiesta en el Aire and the hidden Arroyo de la Ventilla

Picture by: Javier Anet

Focus on A rriate

From Page 9

Arriate is also something of an island being entirely sur rounded by the district of Ronda, despite being inde pendent for nearly four cen turies.

Just eight-and-a-half square kilometers in size, it declared its independence in 1630 when the locals stumped up a sizable 352,739 Marave dies (coinage) to differenti ate themselves from Ronda.

Roman

Its name came from the Ar abic term Arriadh, which means ‘the gardens’... and from where the former Moor ish rulers of Ronda had mostly got their fruit and vegetables.

This is easy to understand if you follow the Arroyo de la Ventilla river down below the village into the so-called ‘huerta de abajo’ (lower al lotments), where it merges with the Guadalcobacin Riv er.

Here were once dozens of Roman villas and an area of irrigated farms and fincas, many that still function to this day.

This is part of the GR 249.5 footpath - also known as the Gran Senda de Malagawhich takes hikers on a won derful two hour walk up to Ronda, off the beaten track. Some 9kms in length, it winds through the Arriate

valley before criss-crossing the wonderful wide-open Llano de la Cruz valley below Ronda.

But before heading off make sure to stop and visit the lo cal church and, in particular, one of the various ham fac tories that are in some cases centuries old.

One of these in the charming pedestrianised Calle Calle juela has been open as a shop since 1900, a fact prov en by the number carved into its pretty wrought iron doorway. Another must visit is the ancient Ideal Cinema that has been converted into one of the hippest restau rants to open this year.

The brainchild of brothers Roberto and Monolo Rive ra, they have undertaken a wonderful conversion of the 1940s film house.

The colourful open-plan restaurant is a real gem with all its cine memorabilia scat tered around the place and on the walls.

The restaurant is still in its fledgling stages with its chefs comprising owner Manolo, his wife and a team of willing friends.

And there are more good places to eat in Arriate, in cluding the new Malacana, which sits just below the church.

This is an old converted storeroom and has a heavy focus on tapas.

Just on the outside of the village look out for the well established El Muelle, run by Dutchman Frank, who has

Picture by: Jon Clarke

Jamones y Embutidos Melgar

a great eye for detail and changes his menu regularly.

A great place to stay is the wonderful farm Alcantarilla, just outside the village. Alternatively, stay at the wonderful Hotel Arriadh, which has some of the best views in Christendom. It’s Dutch owners, Wilbert and John have a great idea for detail and know the val ley and village inside out.

Jewels of the Serrania

THEY are two of the most em blematic white villages of the Serrania de Ronda.

Once famous for their bandits, today Benaoján and Montejaque are best known for their spectacular mountain scenery and walks, not to mention excellent, authentic local cui sine.

The small villages tucked into the Si erra de Grazalema park have stunning views, a wonderful river and friendly locals to boot.

Benaoján is something of an industri al centre, both important for its pork products and almonds, but equally for its hiking and local caves.

In particular, a must visit is the Cueva del Gato (the Cat Cave), while the Cue va de la Pileta has some of the most impressive Palaeolithic cave paintings in Spain.

And don’t forget to take a hike down Mr Henderson's railway along the Guadiaro river valley, all the way to Jimera de Libar, where you can even get a train back.

In fact, you can catch a train here to get to Algeciras, while the other way takes you to Ronda, Antequera and Granada beyond.

Montejaque is its prettier neighbour, a charming village that lives off agri culture (cork, olives and almonds, in particular) as well as rural tourism.

In recent years the council has fo cused on promoting rural tourism and its Caminito de Los Caballeros (above) can give the Caminito del Rey a run for its money.

This newly-completed walk offers a safe and tranquil walkway partly cut into rocks and along a high dam with breathtaking views, as long as you don’t mind heights.

In the village look out for the Mirador (belvedere) with spectacular views over the mountains and valleys near by.

Montejaque is host to several import ant fiestas, including the Pueblos

Blancos Music Festival (July), Culture Week, Feria de Agosto and Virgen de la Concepción (all August) and La Batalla de La Puente (October).

Benaojan meanwhile celebrates San Marcos in April, La Verbena del Tren in July, Nuestra Señora del Rosario in October and Feria de la Chacina (Pork products) in December.

Both villages have a wide choice of places to stay, with Montejaque in creasing its beds from 365 to 481 in just seven years.

Highly recommended is the Hotel Pal acete de Mañara, with its award-win ning restaurant Entre Ascuas, while A1 Holidays offers three exclusive rental properties.

www.a1-holidays.net

Once bandit villages, Montejaque and Benaoján are now the loveliest pueblos blancos, writes Paul Whitelock

PERFECT PALACE

IT started life as a ham factory, only becoming a hotel and res taurant once the pork products industry went into decline in the 1980s.

Now the Hotel Palacete de Ma ñara in Montejaque is rolling in clover again, as it roars back to life after a series of expat owners failed to make a success of it.

In part thanks to its excellent res taurant, Entre Ascuas, the char ming mountain village hostelry has had a record year for visitors. Most of this is thanks to a local girl, Ana Tornay and her husband Alvaro Gutierrez, from Ubrique, who have been working round the clock since taking over three years ago.

The Spanish couple immediately started to serve great coffee, inte resting tapas and well-priced ra ciones, as well as a la carte meals. They have put on occasional events to attract the punters, inclu ding live music, an excellent quiz aimed at locals as well as foreig ners, and occasional disco nights. Ana is the head chef and Alvaro is front of house, supported by a team of eight waiters and kitchen staff.

Andalucia Country Houses Estate

Agents, owned by mother and daughter team Karen and Victoria Pedrazzini. Karen has lived and worked in Andalucia in the property and hotel business since 1987, her years as an owner of a boutique hotel gives her a special brand of expertise when it comes to finding rural tourism business for clients. Victoria is a qualified architect with 15 years experience, registered in Spain and the UK. She has worked on high end projects in Spain and the UK. An invaluable person to have on your team if you are thinking of buying a renovation project.

SELLING COUNTRY PROPERTIES SINCE THE LATE 1990’S and traditional village houses in some of the most beautiful areas of inland Andalusia. After more than 25 years of working in Andalusia, we have decided to concentrate our business into our absolute favourite area of the province – Ronda and Serrania’s. We opened an office in Montejaque in 2021, it is a great base for being able to effectively cover the entire Serrania de Ronda. We sell whether it be a luxury country villa, a traditional cortijo or

finca, a working farm, a vineyard, an equestrian property, small hotel or guesthouse, bed and breakfast, country home or character village house, then you have come to the right company!

THE KEY TO OUR SUCCESS IS OUR COMMITMENT and high level of service to our customers, both prior and after sales. Our extensive knowledge of Andalucia and a personal knowledge of all the properties we offer to our customers. WE COVER RONDA AND ALL THE VILLAGES OF THE SERRANIA DE RONDA, STRETCHING FROM GAUCIN TO ARRIATE, Jimena de la Frontera and San Pablo de Buceite.

WE SPECIALISE IN SELLING RURAL LIFESTYLE BUSINESSES helping customers to realise their dreams in starting lifestyle businesses, such as bed and breakfast, rural hotels and retreats, equestrian style properties,

MOUNTAINS OF FUN: The new caminto and (right) Guadiano valley

Montejaque, Serrania de Ronda Montejaque, Serrania de Ronda

WHAT makes a Lon don barrister walk away from a thriv ing practice and move to a run-down council estate in Ronda?

The answer, as you’ve prob ably already guessed, is love.

Perhaps ‘run-down’ is a bit strong. La Dehesa, Ronda’s main housing estate, was thrown up in the 1970s to hide away the people dic tator Franco saw as ‘prob lems’ – basically gypsies and Moroccans.

But as one Ronda council lor once admitted to me, it was ‘a big mistake’ putting up the cheap blocks when they should have built luxury apartments ‘with the amaz ing views they’ve got’.

I arrived in Ronda in 1998 and my partner is Mercedes, a local girl.

Of course I’m here because of her, but when I say ‘love’, I’m also talking about love for a community that has

embraced me so complete ly.

I’m definitely not here for the weather (and if you’ve experienced a Ronda winter, you’ll know what I mean).

I love the whole deal – Mer cedes, the people, and a truly beautiful city (well they call it ‘ ciudad ’).

Cobbled streets, arches, churches built of that gor geous sandstone with its lovely honey colour … and that’s just the heart of town. You can walk five minutes in any direction and you’ll find stunning architectur al gems, authentic, centu ry-old buildings… but you’ll also get glimpses of vine yards, olive trees and pine groves from almost every where.

Yes, we get blasé at times and forget what a paradise we live in. But then I re

de Ronda

History, nature… and peals of laughter

member the London under ground!

I am a poet and have even won competitions (one last

year in Italy, no less) but I make a living teaching English to Spanish teenag ers. They are polite, they’re punctual and they usually want to learn.

Sometimes I ask them if, af ter a night on the tiles, they walk home. “Of course,”

they exclaim. “Ronda is a very small city, and everywhere is within walking distance.”

Occasionally, some smart Alec will venture: “There’s no Tube in Ronda, Michael”. I ask the girls: “Don’t you feel nervous?”

Sunday Morning, La Dehesa

A jerrybuilt jumble, so shoddy, diminished; just cubes of grey concrete with windows and doors. It started to crumble the day it was finished. Franco’s “solution” for gypsies and moors.

It’s called “La Dehesa”, the pasture, the grange. The old ones say once there were orchards here, too. It’s undergone quite a formidable change: there’s nothing but concrete obscuring the view.

Like rabbits in hutches we live in our flats, with neighbours on both sides, below and above, surrounded by dustbins and children and cats, and noises of squabbling, noises of love.

Each Sunday, some woman (I can’t tell you where) starts singing, as morning creeps in through the shutters. Flamenco, like woodsmoke, just hangs in the air, and laps over drainpipes and outlets and gutters.

She’s clearly a gypsy. I can’t say I’ve seen her, but singing is thoughtless, as easy as breathing, and something about her, her aural demeanour, is caught in her song, which comes seeping and seething through windows and clothes lines, as if by osmosis.

She sings for herself. She’s not grabbing attention. There’s no petty ego, no glaring psychosis. Seduction, without condescension.

She sings of her pain and her ecstasy. Both can be borne on the air, like a children’s balloon. Her art is unconscious, leguminous growth, yet as hauntingly lovely as the light of the moon.

Gitanos, gitanas – delinquents and whores. Well, maybe – but, seeing those ravishing eyes, or hearing The Song as it wavers and soars, I know in my soul where my sympathy lies.

And they don’t. Isn’t that great? They live in an envi ronment without fear of vio lence or being stalked.

Another thing – I often see tourists unfamiliar with euro notes trying to pay their bill with a 50-euro bill.

The waiter says: “Not that one – the blue one will do” and a 20 is select ed. Would the same thing hap pen in Oxford or Brighton? Or would the wait er calculate: “I’ll never see these people again. They can afford to take the hit”?

To most Span iards, the peo ple of the deep south (here, in other words) have a reputa tion for laughing a lot, and gener ally enjoying life. And what’s so terrible about that?

Watch any group of Rondeños so cialising togeth er and you’ll see lots of hugging and you’ll hear peals of laughter. It’s a joy to live in a happy place, sur rounded by de cent sol id moun tain folk. I doubt I’ll move away.

Lawyer and awardwinning poet Michael Coy on why he swapped the UK capital for the mountain town of Ronda a quarter of a century ago

A poem by Michael Coy

NOT HERE FOR THE WEA THER: but Michael (left) loves the landscape and locals

WHERE TO EAT

HOME BREW

IN a tiny back street, a torero’s cape length from the town’s fa mous bullring is a spit-and-saw dust bar that perfectly typifies Ronda. Nothing more than a hole-inthe-wall, Porton is where you can best understand what makes this historic gem tick.

Run by Javier for the last 40 years, this authentic place is usually crammed full of locals at lunchtime, nestling a cana or brandy, as they scour the local paper or browse the midday news. Here, you will find my favourite Ron

From spit-and-sawdust bars to Michelin stars, Ronda offers the very height of peak dining for Andalucia, writes Jon Clarke

da tapa, the wonderful quails egg with a slice of Jamon Iberico on toast (see right).

Washed down with a glass of fino and a snippet of banter from the locals, you are watched from all cor ners by a cornucopia of bullfighting photos and keepsakes, collected over the last century.

A guaranteed feel good factor, it is only matched around the corner at the town’s most historic restaurant, Pedro Romero, where the collec tion of bullfighting memorabilia is perhaps more worthy of museum status.

No surprise really, it being named after the matador that founded

modern bullfighting and went on to build the bullring opposite. A classic family restaurant, nearly half a century old, it is run by broth ers Carlos and Tomas, while their

87-year-old father regularly pops in and their kids put in the odd shift. As you might expect, this is where to Continues on next page

AUTHENTIC: Brothers at Pedro Romero and Javi at Porton, while (right) his classic tapa

PEAK DINING

find the classics, dishes such as carrillada (bulls cheek) or rabo de toro, oxtail, which is the best in town.

Nearby, you will find the excit ing new restaurant, Carrera Oficial, meaning ‘finishing line’ and named after the spot where all the famous Se mana Santa Easter proces sions end.

Opening this year in a won derful old townhouse, it has been beautifully renovated, keeping its ancient beams and doorway, with its original

family crest. Set up by Ronda’s very own Dani Garcia (not to be con fused by the Marbella wun

derkind, who once ran the Miche lin-starred Tra gabuches in the town), it is a real delight, mixing creative dishes with an excellent wine list.

Having worked at a nearby hotel for 17 years, Garcia finally made the move into his own place, wanting to be ‘more adven turous’. And he’s certainly proving to be different, with an excellent

mix of tapas dishes, as well as original mains.

I particularly liked his avoca do salad, which was as fresh as it could be, while a tapa of Arabic-style Moruno lamb was handled well and came served with a baked cher ry tomato and a fried green pepper.

Looking for real creativity you will need to head 100m up the road to Bardal, which was previously the home of Marbella’s Dani Garcia and

his infamous Tragabuches joint.

But forget about Dani, Bardal is a hundred times better and well worthy of its two Michelin stars, with a third surely set for 2023.

All thanks to Benito Gomez, a whirlwind, who arrived from Catalunya a decade ago, having done his time work ing for one of the godfathers of Spanish cuisine, Ferran Adria, both at El Bulli and at its sister restaurant, Hacien

From front

NEW BROOM: Carrera Official and dishes (above), while (right) Kutral and boss Matin

STAR: Benito Gomez with Jon

da Benazuza, in Sanlucar la Mayor, near Sevilla.

Few people are as passion ate about Ronda’s amazing local ingredients that, due to its geography, include amaz ing vegetables, mushrooms, ham, cheeses and meat.

I’ve known Benito since his early days in Ronda (at Tra

gabuches) and even tried his food at Benazuza two de cades ago… a 25-course fourhour masterclass, for just 99 euros, that I still remember and count as one of the best

meals of my life. Now firmly settled in Ronda with a local wife and a second diffusion restaurant, Traga ta, near the Parador, a little bird tells me he will move to a new, greenfield location in the new year, a place that ‘will completely blow your mind’. Watch this space.

Another foreign foodie talent, who is more than settled now in Ronda is Martin Abramzon. Also a former head chef at Tragabuches, this friendly Argentinian is pulling diners from miles around to his styl ish spot, Kutral, a most un usual place in Ronda’ indus trial estate.

Creating the coolest restau rant in town, his parilla-style dining centres on the best cuts of meat the country can offer, while also offering some excellent local vegeta ble dishes. And don’t miss the amazing empanadas and the lemon curd pudding.

Ronaldo

A well travelled chef, who likes to taste new dishes, it is no surprise he trained with Spanish legend Martin Bera sategui and has cooked for many celebrities, including Gareth Bale and Cristiano Ronaldo.

Another three-star Berasate gui trainee is Jose Antonio junior at Tropicana, which was recently voted Spain’s top restaurant by Trip Advisor. Yes, ‘Number One for Best Everyday Dining in Spain’ and tops for all round good quali ty, great local restaurants.

It is an amazing accolade and he and his father, Jose Antonio senior, have done an amazing job turning this place into yet another ‘must visit’ joint in Ronda.

The father and son team de liver a great range of careful ly considered dishes - many vegetarian and gluten-freefocusing on local ingredients with lots of small twists.

Meanwhile, the decor is styl ish, while the impeccable ser

TOP TEAM: Award-winning dad and son at Tropicana

PEAK DINING

vice has given it a great repu tation among tourists.

And there are even more tal ents around in Ronda, with seasoned chef Javier Pimen tel (below with dish) at El Almacen, having trained at San Sebastian’s legendary Akelarre, as well as working in Ireland, London and San Sebastian, before opening in Ronda.

It’s a stylish spot, always busy, with a great selection of music, including a huge pile of records, thanks to his girlfriend, who is the Maitre. But you are here for the food and the dishes change regu larly and almost always have twists.

For wine lovers you mustn’t miss En tre Vinos, which has over 100 wines from Ronda, with more than a dozen wines available by the glass. There

are some excellent tapas and it’s a charming place to while away a few hours.

Just up the hill is Siem , which is ex actly that ‘Always the same’, it’s a bloody excellent place to en joy tapas and some excellent wine with friends. Run by a friendly family team, they al

ways have some experimen tal new dishes, worth a try and in a great location, just up from the bullring.

Down in Barrio San Fran cisco, a charming part of the old town, Cerveceria Bandolero , could be the friendliest place to eat in Andalucia.

It’s very much service with a smile from these two cous ins, who run backwards and

forwards charming guests and plying you with excel lent simple and local fare, with a bent towards Carnes a la Brasa.

Over the square seasoned joint Almocabar has been consistently one of the town’s finest places to eat for two decades.

With a superb wine list, great homemade food and atmo sphere personified, it has a winning formula particularly if eating in the square outdoors at summer time.

There are plenty more amaz ing places on the outskirts of Ronda or in its nearby villag es.

One of the best is Escudero,

a stunning place, with one of the best views in Spain.

The classic view of Ronda, is luckily matched by the food, thanks to the hard-working owners Jose Manuel (who also worked at Tragabuches) and girlfriend Rocio, who is often found in the kitchen despite recently having a baby.

Always try and eat on the terrace outside, although it’s lovely inside on a cold, wet day.

Out and about

Arriate is one of the key spots to head to if you’re looking for inspiration dining.

A long-time favourite is run by talented Dutchman Frank Rottgering, next to the charm ing old railway station.

Called El Muelle, regulars drive all the way from the coast and even Sevilla to eat, and it’s not hard to see why, it being both charming and atmospheric in equal mea sures.

SELECTION: One of the best wine lists is at Entre Vinos

FACES: At Siempre Igual and at Bandolero (right) while (below) amazing views at Sarmiento

Local chef Isa is as popular with tourists, as the locals, who love her generous serv ings and ability to change by the month and always offer specials of the day.

Another exciting new addition to the food scene in Arriate is Los Cairele (see page 10) This amazing converted cin ema is one of the most orig inal, must-visit joints this winter.

The creation of brothers Ro

berto and Manolo, who helps out in the kitchen, it is slow ly finding its way to being a leading culinary find. Nothing is left to chance and it’s currently concentrating on great local produce and has a decent wine list. You will love the vibes; the music and the ambience, surrounded by movie reels, projectors, and posters, not to mention some of the seats, tickets and even adverts

shown before the main event. Even better, the original screen and stage for the Cine Ideal, with its faded paint work, is still intact out back in a big space, through a set of double doors.

Outside on a wonderful ru ral backroad from Arriate towards Sevilla you will find Venta Pelistre. Now 70 years old this is the very defi nition of an Andalucian coun tryside venta.

Run by the same family since it opened, it sits by a river in the sleepy Llano de la Cruz valley, but is anything but on Saturday or Sunday lunch time, when the whole world beats their way to its door. And no surprise, the local food here is not just home made and delicious, but if you pay more than 25 euros a head, give me a call at the Olive Press and I’ll eat my hat.

Looking for a great place to eat in Casares make a bee line to Sarmiento, where the food really does somehow match the views. With one of the best vistas in Christendom you might think the food doesn’t matter, but the brothers Miguel and Juan Sarmiento keep working to make sure the kitchen gets better and better.

It is a great return for them with their father first setting

up this restaurant in the clas sic white town three decades ago, before leasing it out to another local family.

The skills they picked up at various five star hotels and restaurants around the world certainly count for something and their restaurant is ‘based on the essential pillars of the Andalucian lifestyle: authen ticity, spontaneity and the en joyment of friends and fami ly’. You can’t argue with that.

– RONDA

CHARMING: The views at Escudero could not be better, while El Muelle in Arriate is always bustling and Pelistre (right is over 70 years old

Finca, 2 Dwellings, Pool, Barn

Finca, 13 Ha, 2 dwellings, barn, outbuildings, pool, fruit trees, cork and olives. Between Genaguacil and Jubrique with excellent views. Principal house 260 m2, guesthouse 150 m2 a total of 6 bedrooms. A beautifully presented property with spacious, light rooms combining contemporary artistic design with traditional charm together with various outbuildings, one with electricity and water, which could provide additional accommodation as required. Abundant water from 2 natural springs, electricity from solar panels.

Bedrooms: 6 Bathrooms: 4 Build: 720m2 Plot: 130000m2

Ref: 110755

€775,000

Tourist complex with pool in an area of outstanding beauty with river access, located a short distance from the artistic village of Genaguacil, 40 mins from the Costa del Sol and Estepona. The farm comprises 14 ha of land, pool 5mts x 10mts with vanishing edge, solar heated and circulated with sun terrace and a shaded gazebo, plus 3 houses with traditional and modern layouts. The houses consisting a total of 5 bedrooms, 5 bathrooms, 3 kitchens, 3 reception rooms and 3 dining rooms.

285m2 Plot: 140000m2

Long Term Rental, cortijo completely renovated 300 m2 built with its own private Chapel. The Cortijo retains its original charm and is available semi-furnished. The property has 8 bedrooms with fitted wardrobes, 8 bathrooms, 2 sitting-rooms, both with fireplaces and huge, double glazed, full length windows letting in floods of light with direct access to pool. Kitchens are open-plan and well equipped. Beautiful infinity salt water pool surrounded by a large lawn offering vistas over open countryside.

Services

Pretty, Village House, Patio Andaluz

Pretty, traditional village house 170 m2, very well maintained, 4 bedrooms, charming patio Andaluz and terrace. Property comprises living-room, sitting-room, kitchen, pantry, family bathroom, storage room. Upper level has a wooden beamed ceiling and the possibility to make chill-out area with barbecue. Excellent location on an emblematic street and only a 3 minute walk to the main square. The village enjoys all-year round tourism with country walks on the doorstep.

Bedrooms: 4 Bathrooms: 1

Build: 170m2 Plot: 60m2

Ref: 101658 €53,000