Ronda Special Supplement 2021 by Olive Press Newspaper Spain

Pictures by Jon Clarke

Vol. 15

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Issue 381

errania de Ronda www.theolivepress.es

F UNDA DA EN 2017

November 2021

MOORISH JON CLARKE waxes lyrical about his hometown of Ronda, where the sense of history is only matched by its soaring mountain scenery and (almost) its food

T’S one hundred metres, and 300 slippery spiralling steps, to reach the bottom of the siege tunnel of the Casa del Rey Moro. One of various escape routes during times of siege, there is no better reminder of Ronda’s fascinating historical past. A must-visit, alongside the nearby Arabic baths, the 13th century House of the Moorish King was a highlight of Michelle Obama’s visit to Andalucia a decade ago. America’s former first lady had insisted that she wanted to witness first-hand how the Arabic defenders took and received messages and

collected water during the regular sieges in the dark days of the end of the Kingdom of Granada just over 500 years ago. On a cultural holiday to explore the days of Al-Andaluz, she and her daughters spent a day wandering around the gem of a town that sits less than an hour inland from the Costa del Sol. Having visited the charming Arabic gardens of the Palacio Mondragon and the town’s iconic bullring - Spain’s oldest - she decided to undertake some exercise. Continues on Page 2

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INTACT: The 13th century Arabic baths and (left) gargoyles being hung on a street chapel pillar

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DETAIL: Ronda is filled with architectural delights around every corner

Simply charming From Front Page

By navigating the ‘la Mina’ staircase down to the bottom of the gorge, she was really getting a true understanding of what makes this mountain town so wonderful. For down at the bottom by the River Guadalevin - with the steep walls of the

famous Tajo towering above, and the swallows and rooks swooping around with gusto - you truly step back in time. Restored in 1911, the deep tunnel was originally carved out by Christian slaves to get water during the reign of Ronda’s Moorish king, Abomelik. While intended as a secret, Christians then living in Andalucia used the refrain that ‘in Ronda you

TYPICAL: Chestnut sellers from the nearby Genal Valley

die carrying water skins’. own atmospheric gardens, had three They were certainly not likely to have main rooms - hot, cold and tepid - and enjoyed the wonderful welcome were fed with water from the river outmostly Muslim travellers would have side. The domed ceilings with their starreceived in the nearby Arabic baths. The Banos Arabes, built in the 11th shaped air vents were part of a comcentury, are said to be the best pre- plex astronomical symbolism so popserved in Spain today and, for me, are ular in Moorish times. the best place to start a history tour of The baths were the main hammam and lay just outside the Ronda. defensive walls by the Take my advice, for main gate to the town having lived in the area Arabic towns from the direction of for nearly two decades, nowhere else offers up Granada. became such a good introducA clever virtual reality genuine tion to the wealth and video, in both Spanish sophistication of the and English, brings the paradises to former Arabic inhabpast back to life and is live in itants who ruled this a must-watch, before part of Spain for an incontinuing your tour credible 700 years until up the hill into the old the late 15th century. town. With clever urban planning, a careful By the time of the collapse of Arabic use of water and tactical planting of rule in 1485, Ronda had been receivtrees and shrubs towns like Ronda ing foreign visitors for around 1500 (and others including Priego de Cor- years. doba, Alhaurin and Alhama de Grana- Established in 9BC, it is one of Andada) became genuine paradises to live lucia’s oldest towns and in Roman in. times was completely independent The Arabic baths, which sit in their with a thriving wine industry and even

Pictures by Jon Clarke

CLASSICAL: Ronda town hall and (right) a busker in Plaza Socorro

TRADITION: the bullring and (left) matadors have been star attractions for 300 years

with its own coinage, fittingly with a tendril of grapes on its flipside. A bustling military bastion known as Arunda - which means ‘surrounded by mountains’ - it had a sister settlement of Acinipo a few miles away in Ronda la Vieja. The nearby mountains between the two ancient settlements are literally swollen with ancient remains. They include the pre-roman salt mines of the Cerro de las Salinas, the hidden Arabic baths in the Llano de la

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Culinary dynamos Gordon Ramsey and Jamie Oliver both told me how lucky I was to live there, while making TV shows in the area, and celebrity chef Jean Christophe Novelli once gave me an interview in which he told me he was moving to Ronda (he actually only stayed for a couple of months, after failing to find the right property to buy). There is something inextricably magical and tough about Ronda in equal measures. The extremes of weather (its spiky dry heat in summer and freezing winters thanks to its altitude of 800m) doesn’t suit everyone. Equally its inward-looking locals, so typical of conservative mountain types the world over, are not openly friendly and take a while to warm to you. But there is no denying its location and landscape. Take the view from the famous new bridge across the Tajo (or Ronda’s famous gorge). It goes on forever towards the Grazalema mountains on one side and the recently inaugurated national park of the Sierra de las Nieves in the other direction. In the old town the highlights include various museums (the one at the Palacio Mondragon particularly worth a visit) while keep your eyes peeled for the splendid Renaissance mansion known as the Palacio del Marques de Salvatierra, which has a portal full of colonial images of Peruvian images (see top left). The neoclassical town hall is also an architectural gem, while the cathedral (once a mosque) is also well worth a poke around. The bull ring, which is still privately owned by the Ordonez family, is an excellent introduction to a pastime that goes back 300 years in Ronda. Built by the godfather of modern bullfighting Pedro Romero, who was painted by Francisco Goya and fought into his eighties, it is a one of Andalucia’s top visitor attractions and particularly worthwhile for its collection of Goya etchings, not to mention the perfect proportions of its soft sandstone arches. It was here that Michelle Obama had ended her tour at the next door restaurant of Escudero (now moved outside the town), where she had prawns as a starter, followed by ‘a fine fillet steak’, at least so says her waiter on the day, one Jose Manuel. Then finally (before taking the windy hour-long drive back to her hotel on the coast) the world’s then most powerful woman is said to have told the mayor that she would ‘definitely be back.’... and next time with her husband! I’ve not yet bumped into Barrack. But believe me, it really wouldn’t surprise me in Spain’s most evocative town.

R PA

Cruz valley, the remains of the Roman aqueduct on a private estate south of the town and the recent discovery of a Roman grape-treading floor and bodega at Morosanto vineyard just outside Arriate. Here, on a lovely wide open slope, archaeologists have excavated a sizable wine operation with pipes through which wine was transported to vats. The discovery – among a series of columns, statues and a 21-metre Roman swimming pool and sauna - now means that historians can link the production of wine in Ronda to 3AD. You most definitely feel the pull of the Romans (and later Moors) just wandering around the old Casco Historico, with its wonderful buildings, sleepy alleyways, doorways and arches. It is little wonder that so many writers have waxed lyrical about the place… Orson Welles moved here and had his ashes scattered at a nearby estate, while Austrian writer and poet Rilke described it as the ‘City of Dreams’. Ernest Hemingway partbased his novel For Whom the Bells Toll here and much of his work is a love letter to the town. The Dangerous Summer is largely about its Ordonez family bullfighting dynasty, while in Death in the Afternoon he wrote: “It is where you should go if you ever go to Spain on a honeymoon or ever bolt with anyone. The entire town and as far as you can see in any direction is a romantic backdrop.” It’s why Madonna has shot a music video here, why the film Carmen was filmed here and why Bill Gates, Adrian Brody, Ricky Gervais, Anne Hathaway and Doctor Who star Jodie Whittaker, plus many more celebrities, have recently taken holidays in Ronda.

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4 November 2021

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The castle tour

Pictures by: Jon Clarke

Battle stations It’s the moment Napoleon’s unpopular army is finally sent into retreat by a legion of local townsfolk. Pitchforks, muskets and all... And Ronda Romantica, when the whole town dresses up in 19th century garb, in spring is a must-visit event

Take the back route into the Serrania de Ronda and visit the many castles of its western edge

GORGEOUS vista unfolded as we drove past Casares and looped around the valley towards Gaucin, known as the ‘balcony of the Serrania de Ronda’ because of its wonderful views, writes Jon Clarke. This is the back way into the Serrania and one of Europe’s loveliest drives, particularly now they have finished the A-377 inland. This is the perfect alternative route to Ronda, taking in the c e l e b r a t e d town of Gaucin, the stunning Genal Valley and the charming market town of Jimena de la Frontera, which sits at the extreme we s te r n edge of the Serrania alongside the amazing Alcornocales natural park. Gaucin can

Pictures by Jon Clarke

November 2021

FORTIFICATIONS: The west end of the Serrania includes Jimena (above) and Gaucin (far left), while a mother at a fountain in Gaucin and a local (right)

be seen for miles around, like a white ribbon on the peak of a hill. It’s a charming spot, popular with upmarket tourists and walkers and has a fabulous castle, the Castillo del Aguila, which sits at 688 metres above sea level and offers a classic eagle’s perch of the surrounding area. Another half an hour on and you come to Jimena de la Frontera, a whitewashed town officially decla- red of Historical and Artistic Im- portance in 1983. A wonderful weekend getaway, it has been inhabited by Iberians and Phoenicians, as well as the Romans, while its 13th century Moorish castle has looked out over many a bloody battle. Today things are rather more tranquil and you will see plenty of children running around, as well

as men on horseback and remar- de- fence system that stretched ka- bly few tourists. from It may be a mostly quiet town but Olvera to Tarifa and protected the that doesn’t mean that the locals western edge of the Kingdom of don’t know how to party and on Granada. many Saturday nights it comes It remains as a constant realive. minder of Ji- mena’s Try the historic Hosintriguing past as a tal Anon, which has ‘frontera’ - or fronIt remains as live music and a detier - when it guarded a reminder of cent young crowd. In the western flanks of the daytime, thouJimena’s past the Arabic Al Andalus gh, it’s all about puwith Christian Spain. as a frontier tting your walking The castle witnesshoes on and headsed many battles as town ing around the steep Christian armies laid cobbled streets… frequent siege to and, in particular to the castle the fortifications protecting the that rises above it. important Moorish stronghold of The eighth century castle became Algeciras. a National Monument in 1931 The view of the surrounding counand has recently been renovated, tryside below is amazing, in parti but it was once part of a Moorish cular the sprawling forests and

H O T E L & R E S TA U R A N T

“Enjoy the finest cuisine of the Serrania and the best views in Europe at La Fructuosa, in the pueblo blanco of Gaucin”. Calle Luis De Arminan 67, 29480, Gaucín, Andalucia, Spain tel: +34 617 692 784 www.lafructuosa.com

un- dulating hills of Los Alcornocalesnatural park behind. One of Europe’s largest protected spaces, it is the ideal spot for putting on your walking boots and exploring. When the Hozgarganta River swells there are dreamy waterfalls and pools to be found but, as ever, ask the locals to point you to the best spots. The park is also home to the prehistoric paintings at Laja Alta which incredibly date back as far as the Bronze Age. After a day spent exploring the wild and stunning terrain, Jimena offers a range of enticing dining options with a mix of Spanish and Moorish cuisine. The area is known for mushroom picking and game hunting, but the one thing you can’t leave with-

out trying is the sweet ‘piñonate’ cake. For history lovers another great castle worth visiting is at nearby Castellar de la Frontera. The drive up to the village passes through forests of cork trees and past the beautiful turquoise reser- voir formed by the Guadarranque River. When you get there, the small village within the old castle walls has a traditional Hispanic feel but is sprinkled with quirky shops selling a mix of Moroccan jewellery and trinkets. When you finally head home after a weekend of castle-hopping, re- joice in the knowledge that hidden just behind the Costa del Sol’s shining bright lights lie some of Spain’s most precious mountain gems.

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FUND ADA EN 2017

Shelling out! Ronda is becoming the new ‘Pistachio valley’ with its perfect climate for the popular nuts, writes Jon Clarke

T VISION: Henk has big plans

AKE a walk around the Ronda area these days and you’ll notice a series of bright green trees springing up everywhere. Look closely and you’ll see them bearing some unusual yellow reddish fruits in September… well these are pistachios, most commonly seen in parts of Iran, California and Turkey. Thanks to a big demand worldwide, they are now becoming a popular cash crop for the inland Andalucia mountains, in particular around Ronda. Many plantations have gone in over the last few years and now, finally,

TREES WITH A VIEW: The soaring Ronda hills have the perfect climate for pistachios (below) with their red fruit Ronda has one of the first processing plants in Andalucía. Set up by an expat Dutchman, Ronda Pistachios, sits in a wonderful location surrounded by 15 hectares of pistacho trees. Officially opened this september by the mayor of Ronda, it will be capable of processing pistachios for not just the immediate area but the needs of farmers from a few hours by car around. “We planted our first pistachios six years ago,” explains Henk van Dalen, who has had a home in the Ronda area for two decades. Alongside his Spanish business partner, Joaquín Becerra, a local agronomist, the pair are developing the business entirely sustainably. Our vision is to develop future pistachio growing in Andalucía with respect for the environment, by

improving the soil in innovative ways and by sharing information. “These will be 100% organic pistachios and we expect to be up to full speed in the next few years. We now have 16 ha and we are planting another 65 ha. We will then care for 16.000 trees pistachio trees,” adds the softly-spoken 71-year-old, who divides his time between Holland, Spain and Africa. Thinking about Pistachio growing started in 2014 when Henk needed

PLANT: Farmers can now process their precious crop locally

to find a project for an estate he had bought in the Los Prados area of Ronda. A licence was needed in order to renovate a farmhouse. Together Henk and Joaquin decided that planting pistachios was a good thing for the “camarca de Ronda”. Pistachios make it possible to earn more from agriculture than almonds or olives provide. Starting a new crop in the region, a sustainable crop, good for the farmer and the environment is exiting too. On the other side it takes 10 years for the pistachio trees to be fully productive,” he explains. There are currently five main types of pistachio trees in the area and a crop fetches around eight to nine euros per kilo. “We are working to develop pistachio growing in Andalucia. We like to share our knowledge and invite growers from within an hour or two from our plant in Los Prados to use our plant to process their pistachio crop. “We can help in terms of advice about anyone’s local climate and soil type and select varieties that will do well,” he continues. Coincidentally, the well travelled Dutchman had actually visited Kerman, the pistachio growing region of Iran, back in the 1970s as a student. “I was 25 and studying biology in Amsterdam and two times headed out that way to travel. Since then I did not forget Iran.” It is interesting to note that a delegate of farmers are set to visit Ronda from Iran, primarily to find mutual interests in the pistachio culture.. “I know we have started something that grows organically and one day pistachio growing will provide Ronda with some important new products: The pistachio nuts: unpeeled as a snack, peeled for use in restaurants, as a paste for bakeries and pistache oil for the kitchen. Any farmer interested in pistachio growing is invited to contact us for information at: www.rondapistachos.com

7 November 2021

RONDA CIRCULAR

Seasoned walking writer Guy HunterWatts on the joys of the new long distance footpath that circles Ronda

HEN Spain finally lifted the State of Emergency after months of enforced isolation, what I, like many people, most craved was a breath of fresh air, in both the literal and metaphorical sense. And what better way to escape the nightmare of lockdown and rediscover a sense of space than with a long hike through the mountains? Fortunately for me, I live in a small village 20 minutes from Ronda and so hiking the new ‘Gran Senda’ was a natural choice for a trek close to home. The GR-141 - La Gran Senda de la Serrania de Ronda, to give it its full title - is among several GR walking routes that have recently been created in Andalucía. GR stands for Gran Recorrido and comes from Grande Randonee, a term first used in France to designate a long distance hiking trail.

The Gran Senda is a six stage, 110km circuit that begins and ends in Ronda. The walk links several of the prettiest villages of the surrounding Guadiaro and Genal valleys via tracks, footpaths and an ancient drover’s route that once linked the Campo de Gibraltar with the summer pastures of the Serrania. You can walk all of it, part of it and, if you stay over a night, almost all the villages have small hotels and restaurants, so you don’t need to carry camping and cooking gear. High summer wasn’t an ideal time to be tackling a long distance walk in Andalucia. But I knew that by carrying plenty of water and making early starts, the hike would be the tonic I needed. Leaving Ronda’s old town via a spectacular path that snakes down beside its famous gorge I felt elated to be back on the trail, my thoughts turning to Laurie Lee’s celebrated on-foot adventure, As I Walked Out One Midsummer Morning. The 24 kilometres of stage 1 are its most challenging, leading across the depression in front of Ronda’s towering cliffs before descending into the Guadiaro valley. Passing through Benaojan the trail leads south to the sleepy village of Jimera de Libar via a riverside path where I chanced upon a kingfisher, a grey heron and – rare luck! – a family of otters gliding through the clear waters of the Guadiaro. From Jimera, the trail’s second stage runs south past Cortes to the plunging gorge of La Buitrera where you’re guaranteed close encounters with the colony of griffon vultures that nests on its vertical cliffs. Reaching Colmenar after another 23kms

MOUNTAIN VISTAS: New trail rolls around Ronda and its surrounding villages of stunning views, but with the tempera- ing in 2018 while ture in the high thirties most of the way, the narrow path the beer I gulped down in the station’s leading up towards the Puerto railside bar could not have tasted better. Leaving Colmenar, stage three heads de Encinas Borraup a steep climb to Gaucín where the chas is overgrown trail swings back towards Ronda. Here with prickly gorse you enter the cork oak forest of the Bajo and thistles; by Genal before descending to the valley the time I began floor and a beautiful section of riverside my descent into the sandstone walking. Oak forest gives way to vast stands of gorge of El Tajo chestnut trees as you pass through Be- del Abanico my narraba, Benalauria, Atajate and Alpan- legs were looking like one of Jackdeire. de Ronda has much to offer, and in these These middle three stages of the Gran son Pollock’s messiest creations. Senda are shorter than the first two but If you’re looking for a challenging week of troubled times, there’s nothing quite as still tough enough, with a couple of pun- walking, La Gran Senda de La Serranía good as heading out into them thar hills. ishingly steep ascents. The final leg of the Gran Senda - from Guy leads bespoke half day and full day walks along the most beautiful trails Alpandeire back to Ronda - proved to be in the Ronda mountains and Grazalema Park. He is soon to publish his book unexpectedly challenging. Sections of on the GR-141 and is the author of several walking guides to Andalucia. For the trail were washed away by flash flood- details see www.guyhunterwatts.com or call Guy on + 34 616 057 184

MOLINO DEL SANTO IS

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S KEEPING HISTORY ALIVE A

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ANT to get an idea what life was like in Andalucia 5,000 years ago? Well, at the Algaba education centre just outside Ronda, you have the perfect opportunity. Through its hauntingly realistic prehistoric village you learn about how our forefathers created fire, ground their bread, as well as decorated their homes.

You can even find out what they did with their dead. “We teach people about ancient Mediterranean ecosystems because this land has been occupied from prehistoric times to the present day,” explains owner Juan Terroba. Algaba’s work also includes research and teachings on the geology and ornithology of the area, as well as acting as a rare breeds centre for endangered cows. These include the Spanish Pajuna – of which there are just 500 left (pictured top right)– as well as the Andalucian Cardena, which in the early 90s had been reduced to just seven individuals. Thanks to the work of organisations like Algaba, there are now around 200 Cardenas. Guests and groups can come and stay at the centre’s restored 250-year-old finca. “It is certainly a place where people can come and get away from it all”.

VISIONARY: Juan Terroba

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errania de Ronda

“

INLAND DREAMS

THERE are so many dreamers, but we are simply trying to deliver them to those who dream of luxury,” explains the owner of one of inland Andalucia’s most experienced estate agents. Just one quick look at Oscar Villas and Fincas knows all the best country properties Ernstsen’s website Villas and in the Serrania de Ronda... and further afield Fincas and you understand immediately what he means. These are not your average run-of-the-mill country properties or costa villas… the homes for sale via his agency, based in Casares, are simply extraordinary. Fortresses, palaces and castles, this is one website that has them all. “I guess you could say we are very picky,” explains the erudite Dutchman, 63. “We know immediately what we are after and we know our clients well.” His buyers are cultured and sophisticated buyers, mostly from northern Europe, who realise that they can get a lot more from their money inland. “They also appreciate 1000-year-old oaks, 800-year-old monasteries and they know they get far better quality of food at better prices,” he Belgian, Scansquare villas RE A L E S TATE A G E N T FO R TH E FIN E S T C O UN TRY P RO P E R TI ES IN AND ALU SIA, SPAIN dinavian and adds. you find in increasingly British His family business - including Zagaleta, then buyers,” he says. “In fact over wife Anita, daughter Nienke and two there are not the last few weeks the British market is co-workers Rebecca and Aurelia - is many that size really back. It is growing and growing. certainly doing something right having inland. You “The Brits love Spain and they are so its best year in two decades. really need to fed up with waiting and they are prepaAnd he’s expecting things to get better. be prepared to red to put up with two 90-day periods a “We’ve sold dozens of homes this year, travel.” year over here.” millions of euros worth of property,” he Ernstsen and While he has dozens of amazing places explains. “But we just can’t get enough his wife Anita to buy around the Ronda mountains, places to sell.” set up in Spain SUCCESS: Oscar Ernstand two stunning including Gaucin, Casares and GrazaDespite marketing many beautiful hoin 2001 ha- sen Ronda homes for sale mes from the Serrania de Ronda all the lema, his agency also has some plum ving worked way to Jaen and Huelva, he is desperaproperties further afield. for developers in the Netherlands and STUNNING MANSION, RONDA te for more.UNIQUE COUNTRY ESTATE WITH “We have just sold a huge estate near Portugal. country estate only available for a privileged few. This estate has everything you could wish for; natural beauty, a vineyard, livestock, hunting. “WeIt Awilldream have a lot of American, Dutch, Aracena, in Huelva, and a current faTheir business grew slowly and orgasoon have an olive grove and it counts with over 1300 m2 constructed area, including a four-bedroom mansion, a three-bedroom guest house and a two-bedroom staff house. The current owner of the finca loves it so much that he is constantly investing in improvements for the property! vourite of mine is nically out of an office in Casares and they have built up many good friends a m3,200 hectare 186-00660P 9 bedrooms 6 bathrooms 1.968 m 2,510.000 private garden private pool around the region. hunting estate for P.O.A € €16m, north of “We are now getting to the point where Cordoba. we are selling homes again for a se“We travel as cond time and we have lots of good far as four hours personal recommendations,” he conaway, but it is cludes. more than worth Above all, he is delighted that as he it as there are so approaches retirement age, that his daumany stunning ghter looks set to take over the business. haciendas, hun- Having grown up in Andalucia, Nienke ting estates and is bi-lingual, but has a degree in ChineMAGNIFICENT ESTATE, RONDA AUTHENTIC CORTIJO, RONDA CORTIJO WITH COURTYARD, RONDA se philosophy and has recently relocacountry properties Magnificent country estate in the hills of Ronda overlooking the Impressive Andalusian Cortijo property has panoramic views Beautiful Cortijo with courtyard, stables, independent guest old Roman amphitheatre and the rolling fields of Ronda towards the Arriate valley and the Ronda mountains. Currently houses, a garage and a bodega. This country property is ted back to Spain from the Netherlands. within that area.” la Vieja. The property is set in its own private valley. in use as a luxury rural getaway, inc one-bedroom staff house. completely fenced and comprises 35.000 m2 of fertile land. 6 bedrooms | 6 bathrooms | 800m² build | 268.700m² plot 8 bedrooms | 8 bathrooms | 809m² build | 15.300m² plot 6 bedrooms | 810m² build | 35.000m² plot “She loves it here and knows it well,” He | 4 bathrooms continues: Ref: 186-2773P Ref: 186-00756P Ref: 186-00744P “One 1.150.000 thing € for explains her father. “In fact she is the 3.300.000 € 1.495.000 € sure, if clients want perfect person to explain the benefits of those big 1,000m buying in inland Andalucia.” 2

Villas & Fincas Country Properties S.L. Barriada de los Ponis 8B 29690 Casares, Málaga, Spain

Phone: +34 952 895 139 Mobile: +34 608 577 696 Email: info@villasfincas.com

For more information visit www.villasfincas.com

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Issue 381

THE REPUBLIC I OF FUN

www.theolivepress.es

November 2021

While enveloped in stunning mountain scenery, warm-hearted independent Arriate is famous for its friendly locals and a love of partying, writes Jon Clarke

T might only be five minutes from Ronda to Arriate by car, but it’s five light years away in character. Indeed what Ronda has in history and heritage, its nearest neighbour of Arriate has in authenticity and charm. And it definitely has more fun. A buzzing village of nearly 5,000 people, Arriate offers a great quality of life, far from the usual tourist drag and it punches well above its weight. Fiercely independent of Ronda, it wrestled control from its near neighbour over four centuries ago and the locals insist they have always been entirely different. It was in fact on February 14, 1630, that the villagers paid 352,739 Maravedies in order to buy their independence from Ronda. It then took its name from an estate which had existed since the Moorish times, with Arriate deriving from the Arabic term Arriadh, which means ‘the gardens’. And this was no surprise as the leafy area is well irrigated and long supplied most of the fruit and vegetables to nearby Ronda, which totally envelops Arriate making it a sort of island. But while just over eight kilometres square - the smallest district in Malaga province - it is one small village that massively punches above its weight. Staunchly left wing since the death of dictator Franco in 1975, the locals insist their snobbish Continues on Page 2

Pictures by: Jon Clarke

Vol. 15

rriate

COLOURFUL: Fiesta en el Aire, Halloween fun and the Romeria

Fusion Cuisine Restaurant, situated in a 1940s cinema

Open Thursday to Sunday 13.00-00.00 restaurantecaireles@gmail.com tel: 613 00 99 22 Calle Ronda nº 10, 29350 Arriate, Spain

2 November 2021

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Friendly

Pictures by: Javier Anet

From Front Page

HOLY: The church of San Jaen de Letran

‘pico’ neighbours may have the money, but Arrieteños are far more worldly and friendly. “We are certainly far more open than the locals in Ronda,” explains businesswoman Carmeli Gamarro, whose family firm Melgar have been curing and salting meat for many centuries. “The Arrieteños are worldly people, who have travelled the globe in order to work,” she continues. This is certainly the case with the majority of them having to emigrate to other parts of Europe - principally France, Switzerland and Germany - during the harsh impoverished years of the 1960s and 1970s before the death of Franco. Many of them finally made it back and you can’t fail to notice the number of contented pensioners hanging around watching the day go by. One place, Bar La Albarra is so famous for these old boys that one Dutch photographer put together an exhibition based entirely around its regulars. There are dozens of bars here for them… but equally there are dozens of shops, with at least two greengrocers, two flower shops, three bakeries and four butchers alone. To take a pulse of the village spend five minutes in the queue at Pedro Montesino’s greengrocer, which usually snakes around the shop. This is as good a snapshot of life in this Andalucian village as I can possibly conjure up. And there is always banter and discussion on the events of the week. A hard-working man, Pedro typifies the hard-working locals and is up with the lark to locate his wonderful selection of fruit and veg and spends much of his afternoon

PROUD: Of its independence from Ronda and (right) colourful displays during Fiesta en el Aire delivering it around the nearby area. “It is the best thing about living in a village “And as long as the locals keep supporting like this,” he explains. our local shops and demanding good qual- Local mayor Javier Anet is of a similar ity goods then I will continue finding them,” mindset and sums up Arríate’s passion for he says. the countryside and nature. Pedro is typical of the Arriate stock. A A staunch environmentalist, having studstaunch supporter of old fashioned village ied geography at university, he is keen to life, he spends most weekends enjoying promote the wonderful green spaces and the local countryside, when not looking af- walks around the local area. ter his ageing parents. In particular, the trails around the Arroyo A keen hiker, he is forever in training for de la Ventilla, a stunning hidden valley this or that, the highlight of his year being choked with nature and evidence of man, the annual 101km walk organised by near- going way back before the Romans. by Ronda’s famous Spanish Legion. “It’s a breathtaking space and a real ad-

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venture for anyone looking for a genuine escape,” he explains. “It’s this natural way of life we want to promote to anyone thinking of visiting the area.” Anything but your average politician, he has spent the last few years working parttime as a photographer and had various photos published in the national press. A few are featured here. It is little surprise that Arriate – after Ronda – is one of the only inland Malaga villages to continue to grow over the last few decades. Much of this must be down to its laid back nature and reputation for being a party town. Despite being ruled by the IU (or Communist party) for well over a decade (the socialist PSOE party finally took over a few years ago), there is more interest in having fun than the teachings of Chairman Mao. This might perhaps explain why – despite its apparent hard left leanings - the village has some of the best known Easter parades in Andalucia. Highly competitive and reaching fever EASTER: A big deal in Arriate even during COVID pitch around Good Friday, practically every most of those involved hardly ever go to church family has a member in one parade or another. Indeed, such is the clamour to be involved, the and so it is really just down to tradition.” brotherhoods even hold lotteries for the right to Aside from the 400 years of tradition that brings thousands of visitors to see the Hermandad del carry the floats (or tronos) of Jesus and Mary. “It has always seemed a real contradiction to Santisimo Cristo de la Sangre y del Santo Entierme,” says Jose Antonio Coca, a local fitness in- ro de Cristo at Easter, there are other festivals structor and masseur, who grew up in the town. such as the Romeria, the Dia de la Vieja, and the “The processions are taken very seriously and now famous Fiesta en el Aire, which outside of they are very moving, but it is a simple fact that the pandemic normally takes place in October. “It is this sort of thing that really makes the Arriate people stand out,” explains former mayor Melchor Conde, who now works for the Malaga provincial authorities. “They are above all very generous; and always have an open door and are happy to give you what they have.” Another curious trait about Arriate is its wealth of musical talent. There are two town bands, a drumming group and ‘everyone plays one instrument or another,’ it is claimed. It is a tradition that can be traced back even before the origins of the town, when a mythical group of country musicians roamed the area playing music in the dead of night. Known as La Aurora de Arriate, the group of musicians still keep up the tradition playing in the dead of night on Sunday morning between the hours of 4am and 6am. With origins from Arabic times in the 13th century, the coplas, or local songs, have been passed down from generation to generation and became famous when in 1973 the British National Geographic Society recorded them for an album on Spanish cultural music. A capacity for music and culture is all too obvious with a visit to the incredible Los Caireles restaurant on the high street. There are few surprises in the Serrania de Ronda as pleasant as walking through the anonymous, easy-to-miss doors into this wonderful space that was once a cinema. Continues on Page 4

2021

estación de arriate s/n 29350 arriate (málaga) www.elmuelle-arriate.com closed on Mondays and Tuesdays +34 952 166 370 | +34 637 784 416

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November 2021 From Page 3

rriate

GREEN ESCAPE

The brainchild of brothers Roberto and Monolo Rivera, they have undertaken an amazing conversion of the 1940s Cine Ideal, that is incredibly still intact out back. The bar and open-plan restaurant with its glass roof light is just one small corner of what was once the cinema. And what a gem it is, with all its cine memorabilia scattered around the walls and corners. “Our father was a real film fantasist,” says Monolo. “This was one of the most popular cinemas in the Serrania. “People came for miles around despite the movies being heavily censored by the local priest and mayor, who would watch the film first demanding cuts all over the place.” Running until 1988, when due to dwindling audiences part of it had to be converted PARADISE: Walking in the into a flamenco venue, the Arroyo de la Ventilla brothers have kept it intact out back despite numerous offers from developers to turn it into flats. rant is going from strength to “This is our legacy and part of strength with its young chef, our town’s key Ivan Tirado, who history,” says Rotrained under berto. “I grew up two-Michelin star This is our watching CineBenito Gomez at legacy and ma Paradiso and nearby Bardal always dreamt of (see review latpart of our one day opening er). the cinema up The brothers town’s key again. One day are also already history we hope to be thinking of a few able to find the concerts and funding to do special events that.” for the festive season as well For the time being, the restau- as next year’s Fiesta en el Aire,

Picture by: Javier Anet

CASA MAIA

which was actually modelled on an idea that came from their father in the 1950s. Taking place each October, the festival is an ‘open air’ celebration of the town’s artists, musicians ‘and creativity in general,’ explains Roberto, who is himself a photographer. Weather permitting, the three day bash sees the whole town coming out onto the streets for a range of concerts, food and general fun. It is, after all, what Arriate is about.

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November 2021

PEAK DINING WHERE TO EAT

A pair of Michelin stars, Trip Advisor’s top Spanish restaurant and an international line up of talented chefs: Is Ronda now Andalucia’s top foodie escape, asks Jon Clarke

T was two decades ago that Ronda became famous for its Michelin-starred restaurant Tragabuches, named after its infamous local bandit. Guided to the top with the help of Andalucia’s current culinary superstar Dani Garcia, it became one of the hip, must-visit eateries for foodies the world over… and spawned a bustling food scene in Ronda that was as authentic as it was exciting. But, as quickly as it made it, Tragabuches sank due to poor promotion and

STAR: Benito Gomez with Jon and some of Bardal’s inventions mismanagement leading to the ignominious loss of its star and the buzz of the local scene fizzling out with it. Ronda became something of a culinary desert once again and you (mostly) had to head out to the nearby villages to eat well. Now however, that has changed… in part, thanks to various former staff,

who have begun to thrive out of the ashes of Tragabuches. The best example of this is Benito Gomez, whose two Michelin starred Bardal has been on the up and up since opening five years ago, coincidentally in the former kitchen of Tragabuches. While shut for over a year due to the pandemic, it reopened earlier this

year with many critics (me included) believing he could actually soon pull off the unspeakable and win three stars for his amazing joint. Gomez is a genuine character, a real livewire, totally passionate about food and constantly changing his menu, which may have doubled in price since he got his second star in 2019, but on

a recent visit more than justifies it. I particularly love his passion for Ronda’s finest local ingredients - that are many, due to its geography - and his total unswerving support of Andalucian cuisine in general, particularly given he is a Catalan. Continues on Page 10

BY MAR TIN ABRAMZON

November 2021 WHERE TO EAT

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DINING HIGHLIGHTS From Page 9

He has been here though for well over two decades, having first cut his teeth with legendary El Bulli genius Ferran Adria, when he opened at Hacienda Benazuza, in Sanlucar la Mayor, near Sevilla, gaining two stars in almost as many years. I first met Benito there, standing in for the former three-Michelin maestro, where I ate pretty much the best meal of my life - a 25-course four-hour masterclass, for just €99 - that literally blew my mind. From there he moved to Ronda, where I have lived since 2003, first working under Dani Garcia at Tragabuches before leaving to open his own less formal tapas restaurant Tragatapas a decade ago. It coincidentally keeps getting better and better and where his wife, a local Rondenan, runs the show with military precision. Another former Tragabuches hand, who keeps improving, is Martin Abramzon, an Argentine, who is also now a genuine Rondenan local. His hip joint Kutral sits in Ronda’s industrial estate and is style personified. Focusing on the best cuts of meat available cooked on a parilla-style BBQ, he has quickly made a name for himself. But there is a lot more besides, with top picks including a burrata salad with sun dried tomatoes, amazing Argentinian empanadas and a mean lemon curd pudding. It is no surprise to learn he trained with Spanish legend Martin Berasategui and has cooked for Gareth Bale and Cristiano Ronaldo among others.

Another three-star Berasategui trainee is Jose Antonio junior at Tropicana, which was recently voted Spain’s top restaurant by Trip Advisor. Yes, ‘Number One for Best Everyday Dining in Spain’ and tops for all round good quality, great local restaurants. It is an amazing accolade and he and his father, Jose Antonio senior, have done an amazing job turning this place into yet another ‘must visit’ joint in Spain’s most evocative mountain town. While not an enormous fan of the global food website, there is no doubt they are getting it right with Tropicana, which really is magical. The father and son UP AND UP: Martin at Kutral, while (right) Pedro Romero team deliver a great range of carefully considered dishes focus- looking out over the ancient part of Roning very much on local ingredients with lots da, with a mountain backdrop behind and of small twists. It is hard to fault anything an almost Biblical landscape folding out in about the place, in particular its decor and front of you. location but if there is one major stand out, The hard-working owners Jose Manuel and it is Junior’s amazing service and advice girlfriend Rocio have created a charming in English on the food and wine. Test him. and busy eatery in possibly the hardest He’s the best. time in history. Another great new joint Jose really knows his onions having is Escudero, which is worked in the restaurant trade for nearly a definite must-visit on 20 years, firstly with Dani Garcia at Tragathe outskirts of town. buches, then later at his family restaurant, The views are among where he personally waited on the likes of the best in Spain, Michelle Obama. Yet another well-trained chef is Javier Pimentel of hip El Almacen, who travelled the world working in Ireland, London and San Sebastian, before opening his restaurant three years ago. It’s a stylish spot, with a great selection of music, including a huge pile of re-

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RONDA ALL STARS: Javier at Porton, Javier at El Almacen, and Tomas and Carlos at Pedro Romero

Traditional dishes of Ronda

tel: 952 87 11 10 info@rpedroromero.com www.rpedroromero.com Virgen de la Paz 18, 29400 Ronda, Málaga FRIENDLY: At Cerveceria Bandolero in Plaza San Francisco and (below) Monolo at Almocobar cords, thanks to his girlfriend, who is the Maitre. But you are here for the food and Javier doesn’t disappoint, after training at San Sebastian’s three-Michelin cathedral of cuisine Akelarre. The dishes are amazing, but they are tasty and have some excellent twists. No wonder the Rondenans love it so much. For history lovers take a ride to the town’s grandest restaurant Pedro Romero sitting opposite the bullring, with wonderful bullfighting photos and posters, as you might expect. It is a classic family restaurant, now 40 years old, and in the hands of brothers Carlos and Tomas, whose children are starting to come into the fold and their 86-year-old father still regularly pops in. This is the place for classic dishes, such as rabo de toro, which is the best in town, while Tomas, a leading sommelier, is well up on wines. Soulful Almocabar meanwhile, has been consistently one of the town’s finest places to eat for well over a decade, with a superb wine list and atmosphere personified, particularly if eating in the square outdoors at summer time. It has long been one of the town’s most reliable local places to dine and there is a major doffing of the hat to local ingredients and the concept of

AUTHENTICITY: Siempre Igual

TAPAS BAR

LOCAL WINE

A Real Surprise! slow food. His wine list is also second to none. In the same square in Barrio San Francisco is, Cerveceria Bandolero, which really could be the friendliest place to eat in Andalucia. It’s very much service with a smile from these two cousins, who run backwards and forwards charming guests and plying you with excellent simple and local fare, with a bent towards Carnes a la Brasa. For wine lovers you mustn’t miss Entre Vinos, which has over 100 wines from Ronda, with more than a dozen wines available by the glass. There are some excellent tapas and it’s a charming place to while away a few hours. Just up the hill is Siempre Igual, which is exactly that ‘Always the same’, it’s a bloody excellent place to enjoy tapas and some excellent wine with friends. Run by a friendly family team, they always have some experimental new dishes, worth a try and in a great location, just up from the bullring. For those up in the heart of Ronda, authentic Porton – an institution run by Javier for the last 40 years - has wonderful old photos on the wall and a guaranteed feel good factor. Here, you will find my favourite Ronda tapa, the wonderful quails egg with ham on toast. Venturing out of Ronda there are so many amazing country escapes for lunch or supper. Also in the centre is the highly-rated Da Vinci restaurant. Actually giving Tropicana a run for its money on Trip Advisor, this Pizzeria restaurant is normally packed five days a week and serves famously

SELECTION: One of the best wine lists is at Entre Vinos

Continues on Page 12

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12 November 2021 WHERE TO EAT

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Zany: And creative dishes at El Convento

AUTHENTIC: In Arriate you’ll find Frank at El Muelle (left) and the talented team at Los Caireles toy train running around the ceiling. Run by capable Dutchman Frank shown before the main event have From Page 11 And the food, with a good mix of tapas Rottgering, he has turned this railway been conserved. and larger dishes are very much hewn storeroom into an atmospheric and Even better, the original screen and good pizzas. out of the Serrania de Ronda and orig- charming eaterie, boasting superb au- stage for the Cine Ideal, with its fadRun by brother and sister Soraya and inal to boot. thentic dishes. ed paintwork, is still intact out back in Jose Manuel, this is one of the most Working alongside talented local chef a big space, through a set of double family friendly places in Ronda, and Isa, there are always plenty of specials doors. the kids will love the food. and the menu is a blast of good ideas. Another superb spot is Molino del Another great fun place for kids and, The wine list is simple but inspired Santo, by a raging stream, just outparticularly, if you are staying in Barrio and the food is always amazing, fresh side the stunning mountain village of San Francisco is Bar el Convento. and beautifully served and the service Benaojan. This amazing find will blow you away with Frank at the helm tip top. This emblematic place - alongside on lots of levels. It is firstly charm per- Outside of Ronda you are also spoiled Another exciting new addition to the one of Andalucia’s first rural boutique sonified with the most friendly waiting for choice in the villages. food scene in Arriate is Los Caireles. hotels - has turned itself into one of staff in town, while the design and de- Arriate is one of the key spots to head This amazing converted cinema is one the true destination restaurants in the for, in particular to El Muelle, which of the most original, must-visit joints province. cor is eclectic in the extreme. Created by Jose Antonio and Carmen, boasts hundreds of regulars who drive this winter. It’s shut from December, but reopens it has the flavour of Charlie and the all the way from the coast - and even The creation of brothers Roberto and in March when expats from around Chocolate Factory, particularly with its Sevilla - for lunch. Manolo, with talented young chef Ivan the region flock here for its consistentTirado in the ly reliable menu. kitchen, it is slow- In good weather you dine on a shady ly finding its way terrace with amazing mountain views to being a leading and the constant sound of the river culinary find. flowing, while when rainy the warm TASTY: New dish at Sarmiento As well as original dining room is cozy and comfortable. posters, some of My advice, book a room for the night, and better. the seats, tickets take a nice stroll before lunch or sup- It is a great return for them with their father first setting up this restaurant and even adverts per and make a weekend of it. Looking for a in the classic white town three degreat place to cades ago, before leasing it out to aneat in Casa- other local family. res make a The skills they picked up at various five beeline to star hotels and restaurants around Sarmiento, the world certainly count for somewhere the thing and their restaurant is ‘based on food really the essential pillars of the Andalucian does some- lifestyle: authenticity, spontaneity and how match the enjoyment of friends and family’. the views. You can’t argue with that. With one of Last but not least is the brand new the best vis- kitchen of Javier Ruiz, an extremely tas in Chris- talented and well travelled Malaga tendom you chef, who is now working at La Frucmight think tuosa in Gaucin. the food Having trained, appropriately, with doesn’t mat- Dani Garcia in Ronda, he travelled the ter, but the world with the Melia group and even brothers Mi- ended up running a team of 85 chefs guel and Juan at a five star hotel in Morocco. S a r m i e n t o So it is a joyous return to ‘real cooking’ keep working with his small team at this charming to make sure converted olive mill, that is also a hothe kitchen tel. NEW BROOM: Javier and happy diners gets better Under the watchful eye of a gourmet at La Fructuosa Belgian, who bought the hotel a few years ago, he is creating a compact menu, celebrating local and seasonal produce and cooking ‘for a long time at low temperatures’. I particularly loved his caramelized foie starter, his gazpachuelo Malagueno fish soup and his lightly seared sea bass in ratatouille. The last time I ate well in tel: 952 89 50 35 info@restaurantesarmiento.com Crta. de Casares Km 12’5 Gaucin was alongside GorWednesday to Sunday 13:30 to 16:00 & 19:00 to 22:00 don Ramsay during one of his legendary TV shows, Monday & Tuesday Closed where I was chosen as a critic. www.restaurantesarmiento.com On this showing, we may have a new star in the Serrania. Someone to keep authenticity, spontaneity and enjoyment when being around a table Ronda on its toes!

Around the Serrania

13 November 2021

Viva the vendimia! allman Photos by Karl Sm

AUTUMN marks the arrival of the grape harvest – or vendimia - in Spain. Serrania de Ronda, around three dozen bodegas are hard at work collecting their crops ready to blend it into wine. One such winery, now busy picking its grapes, is the Mures bodega of Julio Sánchez Moreno in the tiny village of Atajate, the smallest in Malaga province. The finca grows four varieties of grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Tempranillo and Chardonnay and produces between six and 7,000 bottles of wine every year. The artisan wines can be enjoyed in many fine restaurants and bars across the area including the Molino del Santo in Benaojan, La Casa Grande in Alpandeire and Restaurante Audalazar in Atajate. They can also be purchased from the bodega - which is also Julio’s home - in calle Nueva in Atajate. More info on 627633649 or email: pagodemures@gmail.com

ESCUDERO R E S T A U R A N T E

–

R O N D A

Modern tastes with a Timeless backdrop!

Restaurante Escudero Ronda – Reservas 649 120 208 Carretera Ronda San Pedro KM1, Ronda restauranteesdudero@cartatech.es

14 November 2021

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Secret Serrania From bandit hideouts to Roman wine cellars, there is so much to see and do close to Ronda, writes Jon Clarke

PREACHING THE BLUES

ONDA is surrounded, the Sierra de las Nieves and the Sierra de Grazalema, not to mention its very own breathtaking Serrania. These surrounding hills are creaking with

wonderful walks and pretty towns and villages to visit, all easy to reach in the car and most with their own excellent places to stay and eat. Here are a few top picks for a trip out of Ronda.

ROMAN RONDA

WHILE it’s about as stunning as any of the pretty villages around Ronda, there is one big difference with Juzcar… it’s blue. This is thanks to the Smurf movie that in 2011 decided to use the tiny village as the mythical base of the tiny creatures. It has been used a handful of times since and voted to stay blue some years back. But apart from the many attractions for kids, based around the movie, it is also the perfect place for a walk and to see Griffon vultures and crag martins.

A 15-minute drive from Ronda takes you to the ancient city of Acinipo, where the Romans built another ancient settlement. The highest hill for miles around, it still has much evidence of their skills with a large part of its amphitheatre intact and a lot more to look at, not to mention the views. The visitor centre is only open for the morning, but one can always climb up to the amphitheatre out of hours.

Using their loaves! Two friends have set up the first gluten-free bakery in Ronda, Piquito Bakery

HE idea had been slowly warming up for years. But when it came, it was a masterstroke for Ronda: the first gluten-free baker! Piquito Bakery, set up by friends Javier Criado and Juan Antonio Rosado, is the perfect place to buy bread, pastries and biscuits for celiacs. Only emerging on the Ronda food scene this Spring, the artesanal bakery is already delivering bread and cakes all around the Serrania… and even as far as the coast. Splitting the workload between them, they are managing to bake dozens of

different loaves of bread a day, as well as cakes, cupcakes and even mille feuille puff pastry. Javier had been looking for a new business to set up when his previous venture with a language and cultural school came to an end due to the pandemic. It was after Juan Antonio told him that his partner was celiac and they spent hours trying to create the best gluten-free bread that they came up with the idea. “It seemed like a real growth area and both of us knew various people who were celiacs and so many restaurants need gluten-free products these

days,” explains Javier. After locating a small premises in one of the least known corners of Ronda, they have now created Piquito Bakery, which is named after Juan Antonio’s cat Piquito. “We have been really busy over the first six months,” explains Javier. “And we are not standing still and continually trying to innovate and come up with ideas for the consumer.” The recent ideas include some amazing chocolate chip cookies, great Magdalenas, as well as pre-

sent packs of bonbons, in loads of different colours and flavours. “Our half-kilo loaf is the recipe we have worked on the most, with sourdough, olive oil and long-term preparation. Once made, it has to be rested for three hours and is of a very high quality,” explains Juan Antonio. “We even have rice bread, which is made with rice milk, as well as a loaf of carob, walnuts and raisins, which is wonderful.” Get in touch and ask for the easy to use menu, which includes a range of mother dough loaves and various white loaves.

Visit the bakery in Plaza Virgen de la Esperanza, in Barrio de San Cristobal or call 670495314 or email piquitobakery@gmail.com

FANNING ITS FORTUNE

AN hour walk from Ronda will take you to one of the most stunning natural sites, the Cueva de Abanico (the Fan Cave). Near here celebrated flamenco star Estrella Morente, and husband bullfighter Javier Conde were planning to build a hotel and it is no surprise why. This is one of the most beautiful walks imaginable, with bits of Roman road to discover, ruined towers and then the amazing cave and river at the end.

CAVEMEN COLONY THE historic Roman town of Setenil de las Bodegas is a real eye opener and amazing for photography. Nestled in the rolling landscape, 20 minutes out of Ronda, it was built around a series of caves, which served to keep the wines of the Romans cool in summer, hence its name. It is best to leave your car outside the town, wander up to the old fortress before heading down to the famous overhanging cave for a fine tapas lunch. THE Serrania was once a major stronghold for bandoleros (bandits) and the tiny towns of Benaojan and Montejaque were famously where many holed up. But there is much more, such as the Cueva de la Pileta, near Montejaque (left), which has the oldest cave paintings in Spain, while Benaojan is the centre of the ham and sausage industry. There is also a fabulous walk from Benaojan Estacion down the river to Jimera de Libar, from where you can get the train back. At each end is a great lunch spot, with hotel Molino del Santo, when open in season, the obvious pick.

BANDIT TERRITORY

15 November 2021 WHERE TO STAY

OU shouldn’t have too many problems sleeping in the ‘City of Dreams’, as Austrian poet Rilke once dubbed Ronda. After all, you will have spent, most likely, the day taking in all the mountain air either sightseeing or trekking around the nearby hills. In the town itself you have everywhere to stay from the Parador to the luxurious Reina Victoria, built by British builders over a century ago when the railway first arrived from the coast. If on a budget you can also find the great value Hotel Morales, right in the centre, but you’d be better off spending just a tiny bit more at the excellent, recently opened Ronda Romantica apartments. This apart-hotel (visit ‘Ronda Romantica apartamentos’ or ‘Ronda Romantica lofts’ on Booking.com) comprises five tastefully-converted apartments in a charming part of the Casco Historico. The ancient building was once owned by Pedro Romero, who built the Ronda bullring and was painted by Goya. It has maintained all its original features, including vaulted ceilings and fireplaces, plus it sits next to many of the town’s best restaurants.

Bolthole

For complete authenticity in the countryside try its sister retreat Casa Maia (www. casamaia.co.uk) which is a bolthole extraordinaire, based in a stunning country finca, just ten minutes out of Ronda. Just outside Ronda you should ensure to check out luxurious Hotel Arriadh (www.arriadhhotel.com), which counts on some of the best views anywhere in Spain. Often described as ‘zen-like’, the clean lines and maximising of light and landscape is all thanks to the talents of Dutch couple John and Wilfred. Excellent value, it has an amazingly peaceful garden and a splendid infinity pool and can also offer meals if required. Another good place to stay near Ronda is evocative Molino del Santo (www.molindelsanto.com) which sits by a raging stream just outside Benaojan. A wonderful rural retreat, with

LUXURY: Hotel Arriadh (left) and Ronda Romantica

The Serrania has many romantic and comfortable places to stay, writes Jon Clarke

City of Dreams amazing grounds, the rooms ulous place to stay at the hostalanon.com). It’s been a the rooms have a Spanish rustic are well appointed and you western end of the Serrania in classic stopover for travelers feel, while the outside intertwining have an excellent restaurant Jimena is Hostal Anon (www. for nearly four decades and terraces have a Moorish décor. for lunch or supper. One of Andalucia’s first rural escapes, it is run with military precision by owners Andy and Pauline and you won’t want to leave. Closed from December to mid-March, make sure you book early for Spring, or get one of the last rooms this November. Visiting Gaucin make sure to stay in wonderful La Fructuosa (www.laVISIT to La Donaira begins in a dusfructuosa.com) ty square in El Gastor, a sleepy town which has nestled in a valley between the Sesome of the rrania de Ronda and the Grazalema most charmmountain range less than a 40-minute drive ing, best apfrom Ronda itself. pointed rooms in the entire It is here that guests leave their cars and are Serrania. collected by 4X4 to be driven up a snaking Most of the track past vineyards and olive groves into the rooms have the hills for a stay at an eco-lodge that has carved most amazing out a corner of paradise. views towards Centred around a beautifully restored cortijo Gibraltar and with a glorious central space and an open Africa, while plan kitchen where guests can watch chefs you have a superb restaucreate culinary magic with local ingredients, rant downalmost all of it sourced from La Donaira’s SPRING FED: Natural pool, a yurt and yoga classes every day in an incredible location stairs to boot. own organic farm and kitchen garden. It’s great value There are just nine suites providing accom- tural wines’ showcased at La Donaira ,which and stylishly modation for a maximum two dozen guests produces its own Petit Verdot and Blaufrändesigned with so you’ll never feel crowded and even the two kisch from the vines you’ll see across the a charming, yurts take luxury to a new level. estate but also has a collection of natural, attractive leafy Every room is impeccably styled and makes biodynamic and organic wines with over 90 garden. the most of the beauty of the location with pic- references from 12 countries. Another fab-

ESCAPE TO NATURE

Authentic, laid back and beautiful. La Donaira is one of Andalucia’s top hotels

ture windows offering vistas across wildflower filled pastures and craggy cliffs beyond. Dotted around lavender-filled gardens are nooks designed for romantic moments or private moments of contemplation, and a traditional style Andaluz patio positively bursting with colourful geraniums. Beneath the shady pergola of the herb garden, private wine tasting sessions are offered by La Donaira’s resident sommelier. It’s an opportunity to learn more about ‘na-

DISCOVERY: ‘Natural’ wine tasting

COMFORT: At La Fructuosa

Relax in the sybaritic spa, complete with sauna and hammam, where you can float in an indoor infinity pool soothed by the endless view through the floor to ceiling window of rippling golden grasses beyond. An outdoor pool is fed direct from a mountain spring, with the constant trickling providing an accompaniment to the abundant birdsong and buzzing of bees, whose honey is served at breakfast along with fresh yoghurt from livestock that roam across the 1,700 acre finca. A platform perched on a hillside provides a place for the nimble to enjoy some aerial yoga and doubles up as a concert space on summer evenings when the Steinway is rolled out for sunset musical performances. In a leafy spot beneath cork oaks, guests can enjoy the ultimate in meditation in the form of a wooden chamber specially built over bee

For more information call (+34) 951 39 00 59 or email info@ladonaira.com

hives - don a bee suit, climb inside and let the humming take you on a spiritual journey. La Donaira is all about communing with nature. The medicinal garden is home to around 200 varieties of herbs and flowers, many of which are used to produce unguents, soaps and lotions that equip each bathroom, while others appear on delicately plated dishes served in the open kitchen or brewed to make teas.

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