By Dilip Kuner
A town transformed
time Marbella’s little sister was a place to drive through on the busy N-340 on the way to Estepona, Sotogrande or Gibraltar and infamous for the traffic lights where the Ronda road joins the busy coastal highway.
Long queues of motorists fumed in the massive delays that built up, often lasting more than an hour, to be followed by more delays as cars crawled past the traffic lights in the
This rapidly became a place for a stroll and somewhere for the kids town itself.
A tunnel following the line of the old N-340 was the solution and, more than that, the catalyst for the remarkable transformation of a once sleepy but unremarkable town.
Not only was the tunnel built, but also a hyper-modern urban boulevard over the top of it. This rapidly became a social hub - a place for a stroll and somewhere for the kids to
play away from the fumes and traffic hurtling through underground.
With a skating rink, a skate park and a hat trick of new children’s play parks, the seaside village is growing increasingly unrecognisable from a decade ago. It is sometimes easy to forget about the incredible rich history that surrounds those of us fortunate to live around San Pedro.
Fortunately in San Pedro you’ve got reminders all around you, if you know where to look.
To get a really good idea of what
ning of the 19th century, there were nearly two dozen sugar mills (‘trapiches’) on the coast and no less than two either end of San Pedro.
While large swathes of the coast were covered in cane (and the famous Larios gin family owned much of it), it was San Pedro that got the headlines nationally.
Importing the most modern machinery from France and Britain, the landowners also broke from the mould by building colonies for their workers, hamlets made up of small, but well built cottages, that would guarantee a modicum of comfort.
Workers soon ar rived from as far and wide as Valencia, Murcia and Almeria, as they heard of the success of the groundbreak ing new crop and irri gation systems.
shops scattered around the bustling town centre.
While not quite up to the high fashion levels of nearby Marbella, there are loads of interesting boutiques dotted around, as well as a mixture of book shops, half a dozen bike shops, and hundreds of others selling fruit, ice cream or restaurants and tapas bars. But some things never change. The evenings still see veteran Sanpedreños gather on shaded benches around St Peter’s statue, outside the parish church, and you can bet your bottom centimo the pavement cafes and ice cream parlours are heaving on Sunday
The Agricultural Colony of San Pedro Alcantara was officially opened in 1860 and became the ‘most important in Spain’, creating thousands of jobs and leading to a key nucleus on the Costa del Sol. When sugar
What has kept San Pedro special has been its ability to hang on to its Spanish persona in the face of massive investment from Marbella Town Hallmore than €100 million. This has turned the town from an also-ran suburb into a spanking new social hub and desirable destination.
And beneath the glitzy exterior, San Pedraños are as friendly and unas-
TOWN PLANNING: From reminders of its seafaring past to a tower that looked out for pirates
worldwide standard of excellence, while chic chiringuitos like Macaao and Guayaba are hotspots for the cool and hip. The once-barren wasteland between the boulevard and coast now includes shops, restaurants, residential communities and world class amenities like Nueva Alcantara NAC paddle and tennis club,while a massive new sports stadium is due to open any moment now.
And there’s more. San Pedro has its own leafy satellite suburb in the shape of Guadalmina (Baja and Alta), just west of the town centre. This exclusive neighbourhood – a kind of western golden mile - boasts multi-million euro mansions galore.
Guadalmina Baja is frequently home to ex-Spanish Prime Minister Jose Maria Aznar, who is often seen jogging or walking along the tree-lined avenues, flanked by two or three burly bodyguards.
SANDY STRETCH: San Pedro’s long sandy beach with La Concha mountain in the background
Guadalmina Alta, on the opposite side of the A7, has an 18-hole course and the coast’s only cable ski lake which thrill-seekers can circuit on water skis or a wakeboard.
“I adore it here, you feel like you are in the real Spain,” raves Irish Guadalmina resident Debbie. “You are so close to Marbella and Estepona but without the madness of Puerto Banus, it’s perfect.”
Like most locals, these days, she’s proud to tell anyone who asks that, no, she’s not Marbelli - she’s ‘Sanpedreño, actually’.
OxygenSpa is an innovative device which naturally
on the map for cyclists, joggers and walkers. Its beaches fly the prestigious blue flag, the
ROMANS & MORE
A Roman bathhouse and one of Spain’s oldest churches lie next to San Pedro’s beach, writes Jon Clarke
AS the lineup of SUVs edges slowly closer to the entrance of popular Calpe primary school each morning, one hopes the parents get a lift from the view off to the south. For right there in plain sight is one of the true hidden gems of the Costa del Sol - the sixth century Basilica de Vega del Mar. The remains of this Visigoth-
ic church - one of the oldest churches in Andalucia - is just a stone’s throw from the end of the popular promenade. For lovers of ancient history, this is an intriguing doorway into pre-Islamic Spain. The remains in Lindavistaalong with the nearby Roman baths of Las Bovedas - are on the site of the Roman settlement of Cilniana
While its exact location and size is lost in the mists of time, every year the coastal area gives up more clues, such as the beachside ovens
appearing after a storm in November 2021.
The basilica was first discovered in 1915 by a farmer planting trees, but extensive excavations only began in 1929, led by archaeologist Jose Perez de Barradas. He and his
Vamos a la feria
SAN PEDRO’S much awaited feria kicks off on October 15.
Thousands of people from all over Andalucia and other parts of Spain are expected to attend the popular local celebrations that go on until the 20th, marking an end to Andalucia’s feria season.
Launching with a firework display, the event will feature hundreds of brilliant activities.
From the usual feria attractions to the food and game stalls, the frenetic week will be unforgettable for most.
A full programme will be published a week before its start, Marbella’s City Hall has confirmed to the Olive Press.
This year’s Queens and King of the feria have already been chosen with Alba Baena García and Chloe Bianca Martínez Gonzalez the Youth and Children Queens, respectively. Feria King will be Hector Aguilar Gonzalez. The monarchs get a free pass to all the attractions.
team mapped out the basilica and initially unearthed 148 tombs, though later excavations have found a total of over 200.
The most significant is that of ‘Constantine Crimson’, named after the Holy Roman Emperor Constantine, which may be the oldest Christian tombstone yet to be discovered in Spain.
While the adjacent necropolis dates back to Roman rule in the fourth century, archaeologists disagree over the construction of the basilica. Perez de Barradas initially believed it was built around then, although today historians insist it was built by the Visigoths from the north in the sixth century.
The significant features are its rectangular plan and the presence of three naves, along with its apses. Unlike most churches of the time, it has two apses, which are the semicircular terminations or recesses of an ecclesiastical building. And most unusually, its western apse is its main one.
Protection
The basilica is usually open from 11.15 am to 2pm but it’s best to call Marbella’s Delegacion Municipal de Cultura on 952 825 035 to check. Nearby, just across the stream by Macaao restaurant you will find the remarkable Las Bovedas Roman bathhouse. Sitting on private land in someone’s garden, it is not often open to the public and you will need to ask when to visit. But it is a remarkable construction, in urgent need of protection and repair.
VISIGOTH TO ROMAN: Basilica and (top) Las Bovedas
URBAN ART & ARCHAEOLOGICAL GEMS
EL INGENIO is experiencing a transformation. Recent renovations to the main road and communal spaces have breathed new life into the area, thanks to a significant investment by the local council.
A new pedestrian-friendly entrance now extends from the boulevard roundabout, marked by a large Spanish flag, and flows towards Linda Vista beach. The walkway is adorned with a stylish garden and fountain, setting a welcoming tone for visitors and locals alike.
Along this vibrant street, you’ll find a well-stocked SPAR minimart offer- ing local produce, a tradi-
How new life is being breathed into one of San Pedro’s oldest districts, writes local resident Georgina Gamble
tional panadería (bakery), and Francisco’s Ferretería (hardware store). The area’s beloved family-run restaurants, El Churrero and Bar Añón, have expanded their outdoor seating areas, where patrons can now dine surrounded by lush flower boxes and greenery. A giant pepper tree provides natural shade, making the street a comfortable place to stroll and socialise.
Traffic moves more slowly here, encouraging a relaxed pace that mirrors the authentic, village-like life - style cherished by the local community. The
neighbourhood spans a couple of kilometres from La Colonia down to the beach at Linda Vista.
It is one of the oldest parts of San Pedro, centred around the site of a 19th-century sugar mill. Over time, the area evolved from an industrial zone housing wineries and the alcohol factory, La Alcoholera, into a cultural hub. Today, the former industrial building serves as a multi-purpose cultural centre and theatre, complete with gardens and a football pitch.)
At the street's end, nestled among a grove of eucalyptus trees, lies a true archaeological treasure: the Basilica Paleocristiana de Vega del Mar, dating back
to the 5th century.
This ancient site is particularly notable for its impressive baptismal font, carved from a single block of stone.
It is one of Europe’s rare full-immersion baptismal baths, designed so that individuals could enter from the West, symbolising leaving the past behind, be fully submerged in water, and emerge renewed toward the East, symbolising new beginnings and a metaphor for El Ingenio itself.
HEART OF THE COMMUNITY: El Ingenio takes centre stage during the Easter celebrations
Photos: Jon Clarke
100-POINT HAVEN
ive Press relocating to the town a year ago I have really started to get to know the place and its sheer range of eateries.
THE knives are out in a turf war between dozens of new restaurants that have opened in the last few years in San Pedro Alcantara.
Everything from Greek to Japanese and French to Italian, just about every nationality is represented in this pavement tussle which is great for punters.
Taking place in a string of local battles - in the heart of town, on the promenade and also just off the snazzy boulevard - every time I stroll
With thousands of new (and mostly wealthy) expats moving in over recent years, there has been a distinct focus on quality and style.
And yet, it is still the well-established older places that remain my favourites. Take La Bodega del Cantinero which claims to have the best selec tion of sherries (from both Jerez and Montilla-Moriles) in Europe, the food here has got better every year for the last decade.
And you won’t just get to experience the best tipples of Spain’s top wine, but keep your autograph book handy as it’s a regular haunt of celebrities, politicians and captains of industry.
No surprise, given that Alberto’s amazing joint claims to have all of the Top 100 sherries in the world, according to American critic Robert Parker, many available by the glass.
The last time I popped in I sampled a stunning 30-year-old Oloroso, from Bodegas Tradicion (earning a ‘98’ from Parker), which at
San Pedro’s restaurant scene includes a Europe best and it keeps improving
€14 is amazing value.
Eased down beside a creamy plate of rabo de toro oxtail, as tender as any served up in Cordoba, it was a genuine pairing from heaven.
“I’ve got every 100 point white wine from Parker,” insists sommelier Alberto (above), who has been in charge for two decades now. “There is apparently only one place in the world with more sherries, and that’s in Japan.”
While the wines have always been amazing, what has really changed over the last
couple of years is the kitchen, thanks to Alberto’s Ukrainian wife, Marina, a chef, with many years experience. You never know what will be on offer and she changes the menu regularly, always featuring some great fresh seafood, plus a great bluefin tuna dishes and fresh clams. Understandably she makes a splendid Ensaladilla Kyiv If on offer, definitely get a few slices of his mature stilton, into which Alberto decants a whole bottle of 1993 Pedro Ximenez. “It takes 30 days to completely soak in,” he explains. “And it sells out fast.”
My other favourite stalwart, that’s been keeping the bar high in San Pedro for decades, is the beach restaurant, Macaao Run by the Dhondt family, from Belgium, the fantastic service is only matched by the food, in particular, fresh fish, which is among the best on the coast. In particular the black cod is amazing, but I also recommend the hake in a fresh pea salad with watercress and new potatoes, while the salmon is always superb.
The black cod is amazing, but I also recommend the hake in a fresh pea salad with watercress and new potatoes, while the salmon is always superb
Patriarch Michel trained with legendary chef Alain Ducasse in France and oversees a tight ship, alongside his wife and daughter. Their specials often include mussels, predictably perhaps, while I am always a sucker for his crunchy Vietnamese nems, which come out on a bed of lettuce and mint. The shrimp croquettes are also great.
Another great place to sip wine and watch the world go by with a few decent tapas is Nicolas in Guadalmina.
Part of the centuries-old French wine
PAIRING: The quality of food at Cantinero has really improved since wife Marina (top left) started in the kitchen
around I spot something new. With the Olchain, husband and wife Pierre-Carlos and Georgina Galvan have dozens of glasses of wine on offer, plus hundreds of different bottles of Champagne, Burgundy and Bordeaux to boot. There are pates, cheeses and, as Pierre, explains ‘we try to find a bottle to match everyone’s taste and budget’.
Close by a great place for breakfast, or light lunch, is Valeria gourmet, where the quality of the foods is always paramount, not to mention some of the best coffee in Marbella.
Run by Argentinian Valeria, she is the real life and soul of the place, and it’s always worth asking her what she recommends to eat.
Back in San Pedro
is one of the coast’s best chiringuito restaurants with a
itself there are so many places to eat off the boulevard it is extraordinary.
I am a huge fan of the asian joint, Inch, a regular takeaway favourite of the family, while the Italian L’Impronta and celebrated Albert & Simon across the road, are always worth a visit. It is also worth mentioning the popular Urban, which has a huge mix of great quality dishes, and only shuts for one day of the year, New Years Eve. It has a pool table and shows most football games, while also doubling up as a popular place to eat, in particular for spicy Asiatic dishes. One of the best value places for supper or lunch, the prices haven’t gone up for two years, expat owner Oliver, insists.
THE BUTCHER GUADALMINA: CARNES MADURADAS, QUESOS, VINOS Y EMBUTIDOS IBÉRICOS HIGH-QUALITY AGED MEATS, CHEESES, WINES AND IBERIAN CURED MEATS
620 67 36 18
Centro Comercial Guadalmina San Pedro de Alcántara, Málaga ¡Síguenos! @The_butcherguadalmina
Cava de vinos – Importador Cave à vins – Impotateur
After a marked presence of more than forty years in the international hospitality industry, Michel Trezzy opens a wine cellar “La Odisea del Vino” in San Pedro de Alacantara.
Passionate about wine, Michel does not select them on their labels. His philosophy is above all to find wines that offer the best value for money,
“La Odisea del Vino” proposes a large selection of French wines, many of which are certified Organic and Biodynamic.
“La Odisea del Vino” is full of oenological treasures, and also offers French gastronomic specialties: fore gras, duck confit, cassoulet.....
This space filled with a selection of old vintages will seduce the enlightened connoisseur in search of local qualitative products.
You will find wines of Bordeaux, Burgundy or Champagne as well as many other AOC of France.
Free delivery possible 12 bottles minimum.
www.laodiseadelvino.com +34 635 45 82 27
Avd. de Salamanca, 1 – Nueva Alcántara San Pedro Alcántara, 29670 Marbella
BEACH LIFE: Macaao
regularly changing special menu
