ASierra Nevada ll about
Vol. 13 Issue 333
www.theolivepress.es
White world
+34 958 481 170 +34 675 470 669 www.alquileressierranevada.es
2019/2020
First-time skier Charlie Smith slopes off to the Sierra Nevada to discover the thrill of the chill on our doorstep
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By Charlie Smith We step out at Borreguiles, which sits some 2,700 metres above sea level. This is the basecamp for many of the Sierra’s runs, which range from the green-coloured ‘muy facil’ pistes to those in black, labelled ‘muy dificil’. Blinded by the brilliant white sheen given off by the snow, I meet my teacher for the day, Joey, from the British Ski Center. Having only ever skied on the dry slope in Halifax, Yorkshire, Continues overleaf
photo by Telemark
ILENCE. There is not a single peep as I climb upwards through the valley to meet my maker. I poke my head out of the cable car window and the Sierra Nevada’s fresh alpine air hits my lungs. Then I hear it – a sweeping crunch down the crisp white piste, as a snowboarder whizzes past below. Another tears through, and then a third, all weaving down the mountainside at blistering speed. I’m definitely more terrified than the three Spanish guys sharing the carriage with me. We have left behind the cosy bars and restaurants in Pradollano, the main town of Andalucia’s only ski resort.
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Pascual perfect WANT to avoid all the chaos of queuing for skis and kit on arrival in the resort? Why not take a short stop at Pascual Ski on the way up? Opposite the BP garage in the village of Cenes de la Vega, just off the main road, here you will find Jose Luis Pascual, 65, who has nearly 50 years of working in the Sierra Nevada. He has a great range of new skis and boots and all the tools to repair and prepare your own skis in advance of your arrival. You can literally park right opposite the shop at the petrol station. As well as speaking perfect English he has a big number of skiing instructors available to connect you to. “I have always been one to look after the clients,” explains Jose Luis, who did his military service at the age of 19 with the so called ‘legion blanca’ in the Pyrenees. “We can do repairs that people might think are impossible and we take particularly care of the boots we rent out.” You can find it at Camino de la Vega, 23, Cenes de la Vega or call 958481048 or visit www.pascualski.com
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THROWING SHAPES: Charlie shows some classic early form after getting ‘Bambi legs’ From Page 17
Halifax’ finest
on a school trip, it’s fair to say I am out of my depth. Joey takes me over to a small conveyor belt up a very gentle incline slope, that is probably classed as ‘muy muy facil’. He puts me through my paces and after an hour of intensive training, I’ve gone from Bambi on ice to actually skiing. It’s time to hit the slopes. The pair of us hop onto the Emile Allais ski lift, named after the French alpine ski champion of the 1930s. And maybe Emile would have been proud – if not a bit bored and bemused – as I safely ‘snow ploughed’ my way to the bottom. Saying goodbye to Joey, I pop into Restaurante Borreguiles for a much-needed and reasonably-priced cafe con leche and bocadillo, while I reflecting on my newly-discovered sporting prowess. With the sun now beating down, I take my confidence – or should that be cockiness – back up the slope and prepare for my first solo run. All goes well until I cross a small but slippery patch of ice – a rarity on most of the Sierra Nevada slopes, which are generally icing sugar-soft. A €9 million cash injection for the 2019/2020 season has seen the introduction of 33 new snow cannons, which produce the same amount of snow
in half the time, meaning the environment benefits as well as the slopes. As I hurtle over the ice, desperately trying to slow myself, I clip the skis of 10-year-old boy, sending us both flying. As I look up I realise his classmates have witnessed the whole thing. But rather than giving me a dressing down, the lad’s teacher imparts some words of wisdom and encouragement.
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Old age pleasures
IDYLLIC: The Sierra Nevada puts skiers on top of the world
SURFS UP: Some daredevils ditch skis and snowboards as they ride the slopes
for a hot steam bath and soak up some me-time at one of several This friendliness is a characterising feature of the Sierra Nevada, as hotel spas. locals and tourists – from Portugal, Britain, Germany and ScandinaBut all year round, the Sierra Nevada is paradise for fresh air fiends. via – seem at peace among the tranquility of the idyllic landscape. After ‘the melt’, the resort becomes a haunt for walkers, wildlife lovGiven that my ‘victim’ and I both walk away unscathed, all in all, I ers and mountain bikers. count my first ever day’s skiing as a roaring success. Get the best views by taking advantage of the ski lifts, which in sumThe prices for all this fun in the snow are not to be sniffed at either. mer carry both people and bikes to the summit to enjoy the breathMy adult’s one-day ski pass was €50.50 (low season price, which rises taking routes back down. in high season to just over €52). Seven-day options start from just €271, while there are generous dis- Borreguiles, the resort’s imprescounts for children, elderly and disabled customers. sive ski bowl, boasts a bike park This is a bargain when you look at what the Sierra Nevada has to offer, in the hotter months. Youngwith 124 different runs for every ability, whether you’re Shaun White sters can test their strengths in or Barry White. the mini-olympiads zone or race Beginner and intermediate slopes are in abundance with 19 green against each other on the pedal runs and 41 blues – my kind of territory. car track. And for Beijing Winter Olympics hopefuls there are 50 red runs (dif- Guided dawn and dusk walks ficult) and 14 black and orange (very difficult). and a bumper running and cyThere is even more adventure for the 2019/20 season, with some 30 cling race calendar are a magevents including Snowrunning (snow mountain race), Potholes (free- net keeping the resort busy 12 style), School (alpine skiing) and Veterans (alpine skiing) competi- months of the year. tions. Back in the icy present, it’s time But perhaps the most exciting will be the Snowboardcross event, on to sample some of Pradollano’s March 6 and 7, starring legendary athletes like Lucas legendary apres Eguibar and Regino Hernandez. ski scene. It’s hard to believe that 106,8 kms of pistes and 124 runs For the perfect The bar’s walls (75% open in mid-December) lie just two hours from start, drop into sunny Marbella on sea and half an hour from Granada. include a family Bar Esqui where It truly lives up to the marketing hype as a place where affable landlord you can ski in the morning and sunbathe on the coast, photo featuring Nichu slings pina colada in hand, by the afternoon. cañas across the a fresh-faced Expert skiers treasure the snow which, particularly in counter like a springtime, is quite unlike the tightly-packed ice found King Felipe VI bartender in a in many European winter sports resorts. western saloon Some ski fans even brave the mountain descent in bikiwhile blasting nis for the last day of the season in May (la bajada en bikini), an un- punters with everything from missable occasion charged with champagne, hedonism and near-nu- Michael Jackson to 90s club dity. classics. A hearty pub grub menu Even on my trip in cold December I spotted some shoeless surfer – with quality albondigas – is on dudes, wetsuits and boards in tow. offer as you scrutinise the history “Constant improvements and an ability to produce a lot of snow are adorning the bar’s walls, includjust two of the strengths of our resort,” said Santi Sevilla, who has ing a family photo featuring a been working at Cetursa, the resort’s administrator, for eight years. fresh-faced King Felipe VI. “Add to that the arrival of the Freestyle Ski World Championship and An equally-tasty post-ski belSnowboarding here in March, and the affordability of ski passes, and ly-warmer is the lentejas, freshly you can see why it is one of the most attractive resorts in Europe. served up by Jose Carlos and his “One of my favourite new additions is the Pista del Mar in the heart team at the cosy and modestof Borreguiles. ly-priced Casablanca. “This has been created to make a fun and safe area where families and La Visera is also a great spot for beginners can enjoy the snow.” steak, while Swell, Tito Tapas Santi is far from the only skier smitten by Pradollano’s charms. and La Bodeguita are all defiOver one million people visit the resort each year. nitely worth a trip too. That is an impressive achievement considering it was only construct- For those with a bit more spended in 1964, making it a newbie in comparison to some of France’s ing money, La Muralla’s relong-established resorts like Chamonix and Courchevel. vamped menu makes that hard But there is much more to the Sierra Nevada than sliding down it on work on the slopes all worthtwo planks of wood. while. The melt-in-the-mouth You can tackle it by toboggan and snowboard, or on a snowshoe hike carrillada is a must, as is the (akin to walking with a tennis racket strapped to each foot). courgette carpaccio with fig Family-oriented Mirlo Blanco park gives kids their adrenalin fix as sauce and the peanut tart to finthey brave the star attraction, Trineo Ruso (Russian sled), which ish. And of course, nothing goes whisks riders around a several hundred metre track with tight turns down better at this time of year and a 550 metre descent. than a steaming glass of tinto de A magic carpet slide and bouncy castles can also be found in the zone, Invierno - spiced, mulled wine. along with mountains of snow for DIY fun. Salud! And if that sounds like too much action, you can always swap icy snow www.britishskicenter.co.uk
THEY have been coming to the Sierra Nevada for decades from their home in Almeria. And, best of all, retired expats (above) Martin and Brenda Carney, 72 and 70, now get their ski passes completely free of charge. “All we have to do is rent our gear and we have been using the same shop Ski Sol since we first came,” explains former UK hotelier Brenda. “We love it up here and the snow is usually excellent.” Shop boss Montse (pictured with them) explains that they have dozens of clients in their 70s, and one Norwegian in his NINETIES. “He’s been coming down here for years,” she reveals. “He is amazingly fit and I think skiing really helps him stay that way.” Many of the local business owners still ski every day, well into their sixties. They include Jose Carlos, at Bodega Casablanca, and EOE skiing school boss Jose Luis Hernandez, 64, who explains: “It’s a great sport, using almost all your muscles, your arms, your legs and your dorsals, not to mention the heart. “My brother Manolo still skis and he’s in his 80s and I intend to ski when I’m 90.” Statistically 2.7% of skiers in the Sierra Nevada are over 60 years old. Last but not least there are a lot more Asian skiers coming these days, including the group (left) from China who live in Malaga.
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PROPERIV
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Jetting in! World champion Jet Skier David Selles has set up on the slopes
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AVING whizzed around the world as a professional jet skier David Selles has slid onto the Sierra Nevada slopes with an exciting new business. The seven-times World Champion, from Benidorm, opened a ski shop and school in the heart of Pradolla-
HOT SEAT: David with team and (top) after winning jet ski title
no last season. Be Snow is the culmination of a three-year search for the perfect way to make a living on the slopes. “Since buying a home nearby some years ago, I haven’t stopped looking,” Selles, 48, tells the Olive Press. And when decades-old ski shop Pascual Ski, in Plaza Andalucia, came up for sale he jumped at the option. Now half a year later he has finally opened with a stylish new urban look, with a few of the former staff and with tens of thousands of euros of brand new equipment. “We’ve got 650 new pairs of skis and 800 pairs of brand new boots,” he boasts. “It is the most important thing for anyone wanting to guarantee to have fun on the slopes. “Top class skis with fantastic edges and the most comfortable boots you can find. We can promise that.” It has been an exciting couple of de-
cades for the father-of-two, whose Brazilian wife, Alyne, often helps out in the shop. After growing up in Finistratt, near Benidorm, he took up the sport of jet-skiing and won his first world championship in Crete in 1997. He then competed around the world in countries as diverse as Japan, Canada, Alaska and Chile, before winning his final championship in Marbella in 2008. It was a pretty full on two decades and, technically, he was not allowed to ski during all the time as a professional. “Contractually my sponsors would not allow it, but - of course - I couldn’t resist and came quite a few times incognito,” admits the businessman, who first skied in Candanchu at the age of eight. “Now I couldn’t be happier. This is my passion, not a business. I get to ski every day and make a living at the same time,” he concludes.
Don’t boob this one
THRILL-SEEKERS: Get their kit off every year
A COLLECTION of Sierra Nevada’s bravest and silliest thrill seekers rush down the mountain in swimsuits for the last day of the season. Next year, the V Bajada Swim, will start at Borreguiles where participants hand in their clothes to take to the slopes into Pradollano where drinks and hedonism awaits. Budding nudists also get a discounted ski pass if they sign up to the official page. However, space is limited to 500 people and prizes are given to the best and most outrageous outfits.
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Century in the making The history of Telemark - one of the Sierra Nevada’s oldest ski companies has roots as far back as 1912
THEY say a photo is worth a thousand words. And the picture of Luis Casanove’s grandfather 100 years ago is certainly no exception. Taking pride of place on the wall of his company Telemark’s office in the heart of the Sierra Nevada, the grainy black and white image shows him skiing in Spain, in 1912. In the hills of the Guadarrama range, north of Madrid, he actually appears to be snowboarding at first glance.
“He is actually Telemark skiing, which was the original way, before Alpine skiing became more fashionable later in the century,” explains Luis, in faultless English. “And here we still offer Telemark as well as many other types of skiing classes.” Be it hiking, Telemarking, cross country, snowboarding or off-piste skiing, there are not many inches of the Sierra Nevada that Luis and his business partner Jesus Fernandez don’t know. Going for three decades, they
PERSONAL ATTENTION: From Luis, while (right) he teaches children
PROUD: Luis shows a off a photo of his grandfather skiing near Madrid are well known for their famous off-piste mountain adventures that last from a morning to two days. But their school, set up in 1989, is now focusing very much on families and children. “We have realised that our knowledge and know-how is perfect for families who want the perfect personal one to one break,” continues Luis, who spends half the year in the resort and the other half in Africa. The company also runs amazing wilderness trips that literally end up in another world... the charming cobbled villages of the Genil
valley, in the Alpujarras. Another popular pastime for These one or two-day adventures those who don’t fancy risking life take you through deep off-pis- and limb on the pistes, is to have te snow onto narrow mountain a day of cross-country skiing on tracks. two or three well established “We try to put an emphasis on paths around the resort. ecology and na“It is great fitness ture and it is imand you do get pressive to see enjoy the fab“We try to put to the typically old ulous views and farmhouses in nature at the an emphasis the area and how same time,” he on ecology and adds. little they have changed,” adds company nature,” adds The Luis. can also help or“It is a real, fun ganise hard-core Luis adventure, someuphill climbing thing you will not for mountaineers forget. to a half day soft “Best of all, a team of mules ends snow walking trip with snow rackup helping to bring your stuff ets. back to Pradollano,” he adds. Contact the team on telemark@ The day trip costs just €100 per telemark.es or call 958 48 11 person and includes transport 53. and lunch.
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Sierra Nevada
FLYING S
CARVE UP: Some of the sections of the superpark Sulayr
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OCALS boast of its cream snow. So it is no wonder the Sierra Nevada is a Mecca for thrill-seeking snowboarders, who come in their droves to take advantage of a soft and sumptuous ride. For beginners and experts alike, Spain’s highest resort is a glorious setting. With its stunning scenery and top-class facilities, it was no surprise that it won the bid to host the Freestyle Ski and Snowboard World Championships two years ago. One of the best places to catch the top riders in action is at SuperPark Sulayr, Europe’s largest freestyle snowboard park. Sitting at an altitude of 2,700 metres on Borreguiles, the famed snowboarding park houses the country’s biggest permanent half-pipe.
Measuring a height of six the side of th Rookies will sort, thanks reguiles. Here, lifts d groomed are Many profes their home a These includ their passion “It’s a fantas Spain, if not over the last
Carigüela La Carigüe La
Carigüela
Warm and friendly local in the heart of the Sierra Nevada
Urban legends
The Sierra Nevada’s treacherous nature has created a land of myth and folklore
T
O local Granada folk, the Sierra Nevada mountains are hugely important - and not only as a source of tourism and pride.
Their snow-capped peaks are the setting for many legends and urban myths. The stories, designed to help explain tragic events and natural phenomena like avalanches, have been passed down over the centuries and remain • The Mulhacen peak is 3478 metres high and is the highest classics to this point of continental Spain. day. Below are the two • There are 66 plant species and 80 animal species native to most famous. the Sierra Nevada National Park.
DID YOU KNOW?
• Sierra Nevada has been part of La Vuelta a España with the final stage of the cycling race ending there on several occasions.
• At 1200 metres it has the largest difference in gradient in any resort in Spain.
• Night skiing is held at Pradollano on weekends, weather permitting • The Super parque Sulayr has a 165 metre Half Pipe for freestylers and snowboarders and is Europe’s largest freestyle snowboard park.
• It is the most Southern ski resort in Europe and 80% of its days are sunny during season.
Fabulous fish, amazing salads and various Moroccan dishes tel: 958 480 010
Calle de la Virgin de las Nieves, 16 Edificio Edelweiss, 18196 Sierra Nevada
MONKEYING AROUND: But the Mono Careto warns against this
• Sierra Nevada ski station hosted the Alpine World Ski Championships in 1996 and the 2015 Winter Universiade, the world university games. • The name Sierra Nevada means ‘Snowy Range’ in English
• Sierra Nevada has 107km of skiable slopes, with 115 runs (40 blue, nine black, 50 red and 16 green as well as cross-country ski trails).
• The resort’s ski lifts can carry 45,555 skiers every hour.
• In case of a lack of snow, there are 353 artificial snow cannons which cover 35km of piste.
The mono careto
The literal meaning is ‘monkey face’ but the mono careto may be a magical monkey or a mystical fairy, depending on who is telling the story. The small, hairy creature is blamed for many of the ills that befall the local populace, including the ‘la malafolla granaina’, a bad mood that makes you snappy towards others. It has also been fingered for causing avalanches which have buried mountaineers, cutting climbers’ ropes and throwing rocks at visitors. The cheek critter is believed to have been created as a metaphor for how dangerous the mountains can be if you don’t treat them with respect.
The Devil’s Broom
Legend has it that there was once a wealthy lord who lived with his beautiful daughter in a remote castle in the Alpujarras, on the southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada. The lord planned to marry his daughter off to a fellow landowner, and kept her hidden away from the world so she could not meet anyone else. But unknown to him, she had been sneaking out of the house at night and had already fallen for a local shepherd.
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STARS
The Sierra Nevada is fast becoming a natural haven for Spain’s top snowboarders
FREESTYLE: Riders catch some air
GNARLY: Snowboards are well catered for at the Sierra Nevada
an astonishing 165 metres in length with a metres, the special design flattens the snow on he half-pipe so boarders can jump on both sides. also find a place to carve their niche in the reto the gentle gradients of central station, Bor-
deposit snowboarders on a smooth and wellea where they can hone their skills. ssional snowboarders class Sierra Nevada as and a few shops specialise just in snowboarding. de South Star, where Jesus and his brother juggle n for the snow with running their own two shops. stic place for snowboarders, one of the best in t Europe,” explains Jesus. “It has grown loads t few years and we are always busy.”
When the lovers learned of her father’s plans, they decided to elope north through the treacherous, snow-bound mountain passes, even if it meant their deaths. On his way to meet her, the shepherd bumped into the devil who offered him a broom to hide his tracks in the snow. Pursued by the rich lord, the couple fled until they reached the 3,371-metre peak of Mount Alcazaba, just a few metres short of the mighty Mulhacen (3,482m) But when they dropped the broom it began to sweep by itself, causing an avalanche and burying their pursuers. The story goes that the broom was left there forgotten, where it still sweeps, causing landslides to this day.
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Timeline of a ski station • Angel Ganivet, Spanish Consul to Helsinki, gave birth to the idea of turning the Sierra Nevada into a ski resort at the end of the 19th century. He likened his Granada homeland to the ‘Finland of Andalucia’ in a local newspaper. • 1898 marked the creation of Diez Amigos Limited, a group that led skiing excursions around the area. • Thanks to their continued success, the organisation was able to create the first youth hostel in the area not long after rebranding itself Sociedad Sierra Nevada in 1912. • The main road from Granada to Sierra Nevada and a cable car were both put in place at the beginning of the 1920s, which allowed more people to discover the joys of snow-oriented fun. • The boom years of the resort began in 1964, when Centros Turísticos S.A. (CETURSA), was created, allowing its rapid development. • Sierra Nevada is the southernmost ski station in Europe and sits at the highest point in Spain. The station hosted the World Alpine Ski Championships in 1996. It has also welcomed several Alpine Ski World Cup events, with the first in 1977. In addition, it has been the main venue for the Winter Olympics. • In 2017, the Sierra Nevada hosted the FIS Snowboard and Freestyle World Championships (see poster right), a major international contest put together by the board of the International Ski Federation.
It used to be a two hour bus ride from Granada and then a donkey up the slope
Going uphill slow T
HE only way to get to the top of the slope was to walk... or take a friendly donkey! Indeed, until the first two ski lifts (Borreguiles and Parador) were built in 1969, this was the preferred route. The resort actually dates back to 1912 when Spain's oldest ski club, the Sierra Nevada Society was founded. However, it was not until the 1920s – with the modernisation of Granada’s roads - that the Sierra Nevada started to become known. By the 1950s a bus used to chug its way up to the slopes, while cars would turn up in their dozens at weekends. Visitor numbers slowly grew from then and, in 1964, Cetursa, a business dedicated to reserving ski tickets, was founded. It was around then that the resort was at its most glamourous with the likes of Principe Alfons Hohenlohe, the owner the Marbella Club hotel, regularly bringing up friends, including Sean Connery to ski. The best selection of old pictures, not just some of the vintage visitors to the resort, can be found in the charming Tito Luigi restaurant, which has been open for 30 years and counts the King as an occasional visitor. “We have had them all in here,” explains owner Javier, who heralds from Menorca. “Spain’s best footballers, bullfighters and its leading politicians... everyone loves to ski in the Sierra Nevada.” One of the longest-established work-
YOMP: Most skiers had to walk up until 1969, while (right) a donkey lift
ers in the resort Jose Carlos Villanueva remembers the 1960s well. “I actually had my first communion on the slopes wearing ski boots and a jersey. I was the only one in Spain,” he explains pointing at a photo of him as a child, with his sister.He had arrived there in 1961 when his father got a job running the 'alberge' one of just three buildings in the resort back then. Living there for five years, it was no surprise that he always had a strong urge to return and at the age of 15 he became a ski teacher. Now, appropriately – after 38 years teaching and an incredible 50,000 students – Jose Carlos is running the charming bar Bodega Casablanca.
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+34 958 481 170 +34 675 470 669 www.alquileressierranevada.es
AVALANCHE: Of snow (below) but rarely more than a dozen cars came up in the 1960s
CHUGGING UP: An old bus takes skiers up the slopes with a bit of help from its passengers
S ierra Nevada
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WHERE TO EAT
Après scoff
There are mountains of good places to eat in the Sierra Nevada, writes Jon Clarke
Tlf: +34 958 17 72 93 Plaza de Andalucía, Edificio Montebajo, Local 1, 18196, Sierra Nevada National Park
IN their matching outfits and sparkly tops, there is a real sense of fun at Ci Vediamo. But the real reason to visit is the wonderful creative food of chef Stevie Silva and his team of hip, young chefs. Now in his 11th year on the slopes, this talented young chef spends his summers in Asia or south America, with girlfriend Luna, picking up new dishes to test out on his faithful clients. The pair deserve all the success they have had, opening just as the worst recession in Spain’s history kicked in. Their excellent dishes this season include a ceviche of scal-
TOP TUCKER: Olive Press editor Jon enjoys Nevada Suiss, while (right) team at Ci Vediamo lops in a bloody Mary sauce and mention a great wine list. an amazing false risotto with co- They also have a new Japanese conut milk, kimchi and prawns. inspired restaurant Shimbuya, Also look out for the amazing halfway up the resort, that uzukuri of turbot with yuzu and keeps getting better and better. an amazing soft crab tempura. Staying faithful to the Plaza de Andalucía, Edificio Montebajo Local 2,Japanese But let’s not forget they also style of minimalism, it has elechave some 18196, of the best pizzas tric blue tiles on the wall and lots Sierra Nevada National Park in the resort and lots of more of plain wood and even a slot traditional dishes to boot, not to machine at the door.
Tlf: +34 638 58 83 73
Michelin trained chef Esteban Silva produces classic Italian style dishes with a modern twist
OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK • Monday to Saturday • 12.00-16.00 & 20.00-24.00 Plaza Andalucía, Edf. Salvia s/n • Pradollano • Tel. 958 480 856 • civediamosn@gmail.com Find Us on Google Maps with 360° degree view
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KINGS OF PRADOLLANO: Javi and Luis at Tito Luigi, while (below) Fatima and Mohamed at La Cariguela
I particularly liked their California Roll with a king prawn, salmon and sesame seeds. Next door, keep an eye out for the excellent local Swell next door, which is a cool place to hang out, grab a burger, salad or wok and watch the football. Close by is another recently-opened restaurant, La Cariguela, run by the team behind the most popular bar in town Bar Ski, set up by Nichi two decades ago. Here you will find Nichi’s partner Fatima running a classic soul
kitchen concentrating on excellent quality fish and the resort’s only Moroccan dishes, including a delicious chicken tagine. This is a classic local place, warm and friendly, where service is at a premium and where you will eat some of the resort’s best food, including my personal favourite the tartare of bluefin tuna with avocado, apple, cucumber and caviar. In particular, stop to chat to Fatima’s son Mohamed, who is a livewire of information and at 22 as ambitious as anyone I’ve met
in the Sierra Nevada. In the heart of the resort, few places come more traditional than Tito Luigi, where at least two kings of Spain have eaten. Take a look on the walls and you’ll find evidence of the royal family’s many sojourns down to the golden slopes… and plenty more aside. Indeed, over the last three decades, this wonderful restaurant, run by pals Javier and Luis, has also provided dinner for bullfighters, Hollywood stars and politicians. And it’s perhaps no surprise for See next page
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SERVICE WITH A SMILE: At Al Dente and Shinbuya From previous page
mountains of choice
a joint that consistently provides for 250 covers every evening during the busy season. Specialising in good Italian fare, it serves up great pizzas, pasta dishes and my favourite squidink spaghetti with prawns. The pair have another, hipper restaurant Tito Tapas just up the road and a third more formal restaurant up the hill in the middle of the resort. Next door look out for the also well established La Muralla, run by Argentinian Gonzalo Funes, and appropriately with the best steaks in the resort, not to mention excellent wines by the glass. The melt-in-the-mouth carrillada is a must, as is the courgette
GREAT BURGER: Muralla
carpaccio with fig sauce and the peanut tart to finish was a surefire winner. The ‘tostas’ are also great and come in various guises, while I loved the milhoja of foie gras. He and his brother Luciano also run the brand new Muralla Burger, almost next door, which specialises in the best quality burgers on the slopes. It’s a lovely spot and makes a great addition to what is easily the most competitive run of restaurants in the Sierra Nevada. And don’t forget the brothers’ other bustling spot Las Gondalas, right in the heart of the town and perfect for some apres ski light bites, a hot drink or a beer. The cool sounds playing to the terrace attract a cool crowd and you will struggle to find a seat on many days. Just up from here, look out for the amazing Bodega Casablanca run by Jose Carlos Villanueva, who grew up on the slopes, with his father opening one of the first hostals in the 1960s. The historic photos add to the atmosphere (as does a framed Olive Press article!) and the heart-warming soul food is always excellent, and includes stews, lentils as well as prawns wrapped in potato with a soya mayonnaise and lovely lamb chops with whisker-thin wild asparagus. Looking for views, the recent-
AUTHENTIC: The lentils at Casablanca are legendary
ly-opened, Al Dente faces right onto the slopes and has a superb mix of Italian and Spanish dishes. My tomato, mozzarella bruschetta with basil and black olives was original, while I particularly loved the Saltimbocca, which is fillet steak stuffed with ham and with a rich ricotta sauce. There were some delicious ‘niscalo’ mushrooms added for extra measure. Owned by friendly Granada lawyer Antonio, his team are knowledgeable and service is crisp. He also co-owns the well established La Visera next door, along with chef Pepe, who is a very capable chef and always leading the charge in the kitchen. Another excellent place overlooking the slopes is Tia Maria, which has a good mix of dishes
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introducing...
FACES: At La Visera, Vertical and Tia Maria bar (below) Nichu shows off his skills at Bar Ski
and is a great place for breakfast. Run by Carlos, the brother of Tito Luigi’s Javier, this is an institution and place to while away the day. Newer and really leading the charge food-wise is La Mar Sala, where Carlos has created an ambient spot, perfect for tapas and wines by the glass. This prime spot by the Melia hotel is normally filled to the rafters and counts on some excellent
wines by the glass and the very best seafood from Motril, including boquerones, cigalas and conchas finas. A genuine find. He has also just opened another place called La Mar del Bueno, which is a stylish place and promises to be a true winner this winter, with a decent, creative looking menu. For coffee, breakfast, and in fact just about everything, Vertical is hard to be beaten and also
has a great range of snacks and light bites, including hot dogs for the British clientele. Another brilliant option, particularly for great coffee and amazing pastries, is La Croissanteria, in the heart of the main square. Run by friendly Argentinians Cristian y Jessica, service is very much with a smile and there are even a couple of unusual south American chestnuts I had never tried before.
SHIMBUYA RESTAURANT
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tel: 958 88 55 06 Virgen de las Nieves, Edifico Bulgaria (local 7), Monachil
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Tlf: +34 638 58 83 73 Plaza de Andalucía, Edificio Montebajo Local 2, 18196, Sierra Nevada National Park
30 December 2019/2020
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Sierra Nevada
Marvellous Muralla THE Funes family continue to make new strides in the Sierra Nevada. As well as a supermarket, burger bar, cafe and skiing school, their benchmark La Muralla restaurant goes from strength to strength. Undertaking some stylish changes, they have updated the menu and brought in some excellent new wines, ensuring that the restaurant remains one of the top gourmet spots on the slopes. Under the parent name of Las Gondolas, the Argentinian family, including children Lorena, 42, Gonzalo, 40 and Luciano, 38, all do their bit. It was their father who brought them over from Argentina two decades ago, wanting to
come back to his natural home of Granada (he was born nearby in Lanjaron) and soon opened a supermarket in the resort. The family’s ski school - run by Luciano’s Austrian girlfriend Simone - sits on pole position right by the slopes and main ski lift. “We just keep forging forwards by looking after all our clients,” explains Luciano.
Sierra Nevada’s coolest new restaurant ONLY the Best Beef! Edif Mont Blanc, Sierra Nevada (in front of Melia hotel)
BUSY: La Muralla is always bustling and (inset) a dish
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December 2019/2020 WHERE TO STAY IT is hard to describe Pradollano as an authentic mountain village. But, with a metre of snow on the ground and the sun finally out, it certainly has its charms. There are lots of places to stay but easily one of the most charming has got to be the authentic Hotel Kenia Nevada, which is well located near the centre of town and open most of the year. Run by the friendly Don Pedro – who used to ski for the country as a youngster - it is clean, well run and serves up one of the best breakfasts in Spain.
Charming
It also has a gym and spa, with an in-house masseur, and plenty of communal areas, filled with charming old furniture. You could also go upmarket and splurge on one of the two wonderful Melia hotels, right in the heart of the resort. The rooms at the Melia Sierra Nevada have been recently renovated and the New Premium rooms have been built on floors 7 and 8. Meanwhile the nearby Meliá Sol y Nieve hotel offers The Level experience, which is the hotel group’s most exclusive commitment to luxury and personal service. Another good budget option is the GHM Monachil, which is well located right by the
I
T is hard to describe Pradollano as an authentic mountain village. But, with a metre of snow on the ground and the sun out, it certainly has its charms. There are lots of places to stay but easily one of the most charming has got to be the authentic Hotel Kenia Nevada, which is well located near the centre of town and open most of the year. Run by the friendly Don Pedro – who used to ski for the country as a youngster - it is clean, well run and serves up one of the best breakfasts in Spain. It also has a gym and spa, with an in-house masseur, and plenty of communal areas, filled withSIERRA charming old furniture. NEVADA Another good budget option is the GHM Monachil, which is well located right by the slopes and has had a massive upgrade over the last couple of years and continues with the rooms now.
MELIÃ
Snow dreams
SPLURGE: At luxurious Melia hotel
There are hundreds of places to stay in the Sierra Nevada, but only a handful are really reliable, writes Jon Clarke slopes and has had a massive upgrade over the last couple of years and continues with
the rooms now. It has an excellent breakfast buffet and a big car park,
It has an excellent breakfast buffet and a big car park, which costs just €10 a day for guests. You could also go upmarket and splurge on one of the two wonderful Melia hotels, right in the heart of the resort. The rooms at the Melia Sierra Nevada have been recently renovated and the New Premium rooms have been built on floors 7 and 8. Meanwhile the nearby Meliá Sol y Nieve hotel offers The Level experience, which is the hotel group’s most exclusive commitment to luxury and personal service. Another excellent option is to rent an apartment in the resort, of which there are many. Be careful, of all the many deals on the likes of airbnb and booking you could be in for a shock when you arrive, being stuck out in Babylon or find the place much smaller and dirtier than it initially looked in
photos. A much better option is to trust the long-time local specialists, Sierra Nevada Alquileres, which has a massive 150 apartments on its books The company is always busy but its boss Antonio (pictured left) always has time for a chat if around and will always find you a good deal.
MOVER AND SHAKER: Antonio at Sierra Nevada Alquileres and (above) Kenia Nevada which costs just €10 a day for guests. Another popular option is to rent an apartment in the resort, of which there are many. Be careful, of all the many deals on the likes of airbnb and booking you could be in for a shock when you arrive, being stuck out in Babylon or
find the place much smaller and dirtier than it initially looked in photos. A much better option is to trust the long-time local specialists, Sierra Nevada Alquileres, which has a massive 150 apartments on its books, which start from €80 euros a night and go up to well over
€1,000 if you want something really exclusive. It even has some chalets to rent to boot. The company is always busy but its boss Antonio always has time for a chat if around and will always find you a good deal. Visit www.alquileressierranevada.es) for more information.
Visit www.alquileressierranevada.es) for more information.
SKI & APRÈS-SKI HOTELS
MELIÃ
SOL Y NIEVE
MELIÃ | SIERRA NEVADA
–
MELIÃ | SOL Y NIEVE
(+34) 902 144444 // www. melia.com
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E
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33 XV December 18th - January 7th 2019
From Page 16
Festive delights puppets are in some odd way so very Andaluz. A lovely Christmas tradition common in many Catholic countries is the belen (nativity scene) and here in the Spanish south it has developed into an art form. Our neighbour Jose Manuel proudly showed us his latest intricate production which has taken him months to build and covers half his patio.
photos by Karethe Linaae
Zambomba
Almost every Spanish home, church, brotherhood and bar will have a nativity display perfect in every detail, from miniature shepherds and tiny sheep to working waterfalls and stars in the East that light up. A uniquely Andalusian Christmas tradition is the zambomba - a bonfire with jingle bells on when musicians and dancers crowd around braziers outdoors playing flamenco and villancicos (Spanish christmas carols) and keeping warm with mulled wine and shots of sweet anis liqueur. The tradition originated with Jerez’s gypsy communities and in the city today there are so many you can put together your own zambomba crawl. The name comes from a pecu-
PAGAN TWIST: Santa scales a house, while (right) a Spanish carol drum called a zambomba
liar sounding drum-like instrument that has become synonymous with Andalucian Christmas, and though an acquired taste, it wouldn’t be Navidad without it. Designated drivers beware. A
somewhat risque traditional is the Christmas minibar which local businesses offer clients. I first noticed this generous booze and cookie display at our car dealership in Malaga. When renewing our insurance
in December, we also encountered this free bar at our usually very responsible insurance agency. I even spotted one in a hardware store, tucked behind the hunting knife stand (the shop
also sells the aforementioned ‘three-kings-on-a-rope’ should anyone be interested). Nothing like a breathalyser-busting tot of good cheer before driving off in the new car, taking out life insurance or
revving up a power-saw. During our first Spanish Christmas, a few years back, word got out that we would be alone for the holiday. Immediately Continues on Page 34