PADDE PD DLR LER The International digital magazine for recreational paddlers
INDIA Steve Brooks Parvarti River
ezine
NEPAL Matt Cooke
Easter rum hunt
QUIM FONTANÉ An interview with…
Issue 33 Winter 2016
HURLEY Steffan Meyric Hughes
A Classic weekend at
CONTN TENTS
Mission Waterfall,Tana River, Kenya by Glenn Richards Editor
Peter Tranter peter@thepaddlerezine.com Tel: (01480) 465081 Mob: 07411 005824 www.thepaddlerezine.com
Advertising sales
Anne Egan Tel: (01480) 465081 advertising@thepaddlerezine.com
Covers
Kayak: Stephen Wright by Jack Gunter Salty: Greeland by Martin Rickard Canoe: Yukon, Canada by Chris Paton
Thank you to: Phil Carr, Adrian Harkin, Nu ria Fontane Stephan Mandel, Dennis Newton, Jack Gunter, Andrew ‘Jacko’ Jackson, Patrick Beavis, Michelle Marr, Molly Zeidler, Ian McCammon, Ute Heppke, Geoff Murray, Troy Klewchuck, Alan Bates, Lars, Suzi, Tiuri and Liva Simonsen and the NFCT for all your help in putting this issue together.
Not all contributors are professional writers and photographers, so don’t be put off writing because you have no experience! The Paddler ezine is all about paddler to paddler dialogue: a paddler’s magazine written by paddlers. Next issue is Early Spring 2017 with a deadline of submissions on January 20th. Technical Information: Contributions preferably as a Microsoft Word file with 1200-2000 words, emailed to submissions@thepaddler.ezine.com. Images should be hi-resolution and emailed with the Word file or if preferred, a Dropbox folder will be created for you. The Paddler ezine encourages contributions of any nature but reserves the right to edit to the space available. Opinions expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publishing parent company, 2b Graphic Design Limited. The publishing of an advertisement in the Paddler ezine does not necessarily mean that the parent company, 2b Graphic Design Limited, endorse the company, item or service advertised. All material in the Paddler ezine is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Reproduction without prior permission from the editor is forbidden.
Issue 33 Winter 2016
004 The Paddler’s Planet By Christian Wagley
006 Testing, testing
Plenty of kit reviewed by our contributors
014 Cranafest
A letter of complaint by John McClean
024 Interview with…
Freestyle Champ Quim Fontané Masó
034 Hurley
A classic weekend by Steffan Meyric Hughes
044 Coaching Safety Series No.5 What if… by Chris Brain
058 South African WW series
No.2 Swaziland and Lowveld by Luke Longridge
068 Kenya
The Tana River Festival by Glenn Richards
074 Nepal
Easter rum and whisky hunt by Matt Cooke
088 India
The Parvati River by Steve Brooks
098 United States
Delmarva paddler’s retreat by Scott Edwards
108 Greenland
In search of Gino Watkins by Martin Rickard
118 United States
Paddlequest 1500 part 2 by John Connelly
128 United Kingdom
River Itchen winter kayak fishing by Simon Everett
136 United Kingdom
Ulster Canoe Festival by John McClean
142 Canada
Children of the Yukon by Chris Paton
156 United States & Canada
NFCT solo thru-paddle by Laurie Chandler
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PADDLER’S PLANET by CHRISTIAN WAGLEY
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Of deception, natural and human For more information on how you can participate wherever you may be on the Planet visit www.supradioshow.com Stay tuned for my weekly podcast of The Paddler’s Planet with my guest host Christian Wagley on www.supradioshow.com, “Where we are Standing Up for the Planet!”
On what is a seasonally-warm morning for early December in north Florida, I pull a chair out into a sunny spot in the yard and sit down to relax. For most of the year the direct sun is unbearable. But for several months in late fall and winter, I move toward the sun rather than away. And a little thinking time in the sun got me thinking about humans, nature, and truth in the age of soundbites and social media. I yank my t-shirt over my head and toss it aside, then lean back with eyes closed.The sun warms me, my bare white skin first and then after a while – all the way to my core.
A lone monarch butterfly comes fluttering along, one of the last of the season of those that pass through the area on their way to wintering grounds in central Mexico. The butterfly lands on the mulched path, and seems to be soaking up the sun just like me as each of us tries to get warm after a very cold night. I look more closely and confirm that it is actually a monarch. Another butterfly, the viceroy, looks almost exactly like the monarch in one of the natural world’s many examples of mimicry. In this case, the look-alike viceroy benefits from the monarch’s reputation as a foul-tasting meal that birds avoid and viceversa. So predators avoid them both.
Deception and trickery are a fascinating part of the natural world, as each organism fights for daily survival and its ultimate measure of success – to pass on its genes. If it takes deception or trickery to give the competitive advantage to get there, populations evolve to that place. Today, the human organism faces deception, trickery, and outright falsehoods in everything from gaining an advantage in business, to political campaigns, and in social media even among friends. But falsehoods are not what we teach our children, leaving us wondering what it is that happens between childhood and adulthood to make lying acceptable to some. And in the most incredible and egregious instances of all, the spread of ‘fake news’ in America has to be challenged and stopped. While it used to take a whole newsroom of professional journalists and their system of
checks and balances to deliver news, now any one person with access to the Internet can do it. Blatantly false information must be called out as blatantly false. If somebody says that climate change is a hoax, we must present the facts that it is indeed real. When there are lies spread about a friend on social media, we must call-out the lies politely and respectfully and set the record straight. A famously wealthy and very philanthropic businessman in my community gives frequent lectures on good management techniques, attended by thousands across the country. He often repeats the mantra, “What you permit, you promote.” Fortunately, through the course of human history there have always been those willing to stop permitting and thus promoting the bad, the ugly, the things that threaten to move us backward. In the United States, we have taken steps toward ending bullying by educating about the need to step-in and stop it if we encounter it. We run advertisements warning of the dangers of
cigarette smoking. In many cases the things we used to either shrug our shoulders at or were too afraid to confront, now we do confront. The same can, and must be done with the creation of fake news and the deliberate spread of lies through social media—something that has been taken to levels of wickedness and corruption in the recent American presidential election. We have been given the gift of intelligent thought by our creator, allowing us to deduce right from wrong and truth from falsehood. For those willing to accept or even spread falsehoods, we must not permit it, nor promote it. While the natural world sometimes uses deception as a clever way to survive, it’s a different world with humans. Deception in our relationships with each other is destructive. In order to keep moving toward a world that works for all, a world in which we maintain a healthy living plant, we must confront, challenge, and eliminate that which is fake, false, and fabricated and stay true to truth itself.
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Testing, HD5W. We previously tested the Kitvision Edge HD30W, which made an excellent impression and this unit looks much the same but with a more streamlined design of fewer buttons. The main problem with the Kitvision Edge HD30W was that all of is buttons were not accessible when used with the waterproof case. All the four buttons of the 4KW are now accessible and though I’m not a great fan of repeatably pressing the same button to access features, it does make more sense with regard to the casing. A very clear two-inch LCD display makes it a cinch to see what you’re doing with the usual couple of slots for USB and the micro card, which does not come supplied!
Kitvision Escape 4KW
http://www.kitvision.co.uk By Peter Tranter
OK I’m not going to beat about the bush on this one but if you’re looking for a 4K camera, then this probably isn’t it. However, if it’s 1080p you are after, then look no further.
The Escape 4KW is obviously touted as a 4K unit, unfortunately, the 10fps frame rate isn’t up to the grade and though image quality is very good, even if it is upscaled and not true 4K , the stuttering nature of the 10fps makes it pretty uncomfortable to watch. My advice is to switch to 1080p, where the camera excels, particularly in this price range of £150 or less. The 1080p records at a much better 30 and 60fps, giving much more fluid and watchable results, with crisp colourful and steady footage and that is the strength of this very capable action cam. The 4KW has a quality light feel to it, with an almost identical design to the HD5 and
So what about the 12MB camera? Well its not too bad actually nd gives good reasonable
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So, if you are looking for a very affordable 1080P HD, easy to use camera that can attach to almost anything and produces excellent results – then this has to be considered. If you’re looking for a true and capable 4K action cam – then look somewhere else.
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One last item to note is the vast number of options with which to attach the camera to whatever you have in mind and they’re included for the price of the action cam.
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Download the Ez-iCam app to your smartphone and you can set the camera to be a WiFi hotspot and copy your files over to the phone or alternatively, connect via USB to your desktop.
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The waterproof casing is easy to use with just one clasp and worked a treat down to a depth of five metres of so with the capacity to reach down to 30 metres if pushed according to Kitvision. Usage with the case is just as easy and identical to using the camera without the casing.
ou want yo ion. If y u stat rp st r
results. It will never challenge a standalone camera but it does have timed, burst and time lapse modes.
The Paddle r ez ine te
Upscaled 4K Video recording @10fps/upscaled 2.7K @15fps 1080P Video recording @60fps/1080P @30fps/720P @120fps/720P @60fps 12MP photo mode/timed/burst/time lapse Built in Wi-Fi (*App required for remote view/control) Built-in 2 LCD display 170 degree ultra wide angle lens 30 m waterproof case Micro SD/micro SDHC cards up to 64GB (not included) class 10 recommended High-capacity 1050mAh rechargeable battery: around 90 minutes recording Built-in high quality microphone Image 180 degree turnover recording Weight: 61g
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Ideas for Crimbo and the frosty new year
Rooster Pro Lite Aquafleece®Top www.roostersailing.com
This good looking top isn’t really with winter in mind, you would do well to look at the heavier Pro Aquafleece for that – the Pro Lite is for the warmer conditions of Spring.
Toggled fleecy collar for extra insulation
Now Rooster, a big name in the sailing industry, have their eye on supplying paddlers with decent gear. They have tough competition of course but the Pro-Lite will only add to their reputation for manufacturing quality watersport clothing. This top has a Polyurethane coating on the outside for water resistance, durability and flexibility, combined with a fleece inner layer to keep you snug and warm – a combination that works well when wet or dry. With its waterproof taped seams and adjustable neoprene waist and wrist closures, this garment offers great protection in the harshest of conditions. Available in both unisex and ladies cut. Price: £52/$105/€95
Helly Hansen Crew Midlayer Jacket www.hellyhansen.com
It’s very fashionable now for adventure clothing manufacturers to not only have their products doing the job in the outdoor arena but also to have them looking good for the trip down the pub. This jacket is very much a favourite at Paddler HQ and borrowed by many, which is little surprise as the jacket is very striking and stylish in its navy blue with red zip highlights and white decals, It looks and feels expensive with deep pockets and quality feel zips. It also boasts a toggle waist to prevent unwanted draughts in the coldest of conditions.
Velcro tapered sleeves for added protection from the cold
Outside it’s waterproof, warm and insulates very well, feeling snug and comfortable with its fleecy inner layer. Good enough to give protection in cold periods and light enough for carrying when it gets warmer. We’ve found the jacket costing much less than the average prices stated below, so shop around and you could get stunning value for a top class, great looking, well made jacket. Price: £100/$150/€140
Roll away hood with easy-stow toggle system
Peak UK Adventure Double www.peakuk.com
It goes without saying that Peak UK, being a supplier to GB’s Olympic canoeing slalom team, that their products are well made and reliable. The Adventure Double is firmly in that camp. Very comfortable with excellent freedom of movement, the Adventure Double is constructed from a four-layer, mid-heavyweight nylon that’s both breathable and waterproof. The lightweight roll-away hood has an easystow toggle system and the neck seal is neoprene with a velcro tag to snug it up – not a full seal like a dry suit but more comfortable in our opinion .The double waist and wrist seals complete the mix to keep you warm and dry on those long distance paddles in the toughest of conditions. Much thought has gone into the design of the jacket illustrated by conveniently placed zipped pockets for easy access with a PFD plus an additional pocket on the sleeve, giving plenty of storage options. The double waist will lock your spraydeck in securely and has velcro adjustment on the outer for a made to measure fit. Available only in the colours shown and in sizes from XS to XXL, this is one piece of gear you’ll appreciate when the going gets tough – you deserve it.
Price: £229
Gill KB1 Racer DryTop www.gillmarine.com
Glideskin neoprene seal at the neck and wrists
Yet another company that is far more recognized in the sailing world is making a statement that they believe their clothing is more than worth a try for those who prefer a paddle in their hands for forward motion. Designed to perform at the highest level, the KB1 top is very well constructed from Gill’s tough and durable 4Dot three-layer waterproof, breathable and lightweight fabric. Add to that the Glideskin neoprene seals at the neck and wrists, with the adjustable neoprene waistband and you have the perfect combination to keep you dry and comfortable, whilst working at the toughest levels. The top is finished with one single large volume front pocket with YKK Aquaguard water resistant zippers plus a D-ring attachment point. A very accomplished performer from a top brand in the sailing world Price: £220/$289
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Palm Gradient
http://palmequipmenteurope.com We ran a review of the Gradients over 12 months ago and an excellent one it was too (https://joom.ag/n3rb/p20). However, that was countered by a comment from a paddler who maintained that Palm products were fine when new but don’t last more than 12 months. That was a strange one to us as we’ve always held Palm products in the highest regard but felt the only way to successfully argue the point from our personal point of view was to take another look at the Palm Gradients 12 months down the line – if they lasted that long! Well, here they are and we’re glad to say they have excelled themselves. Despite being worn nearly every day and in some challenging conditions, they are almost as good as new as can be seen by the photo. Muddy yes, otherwise as sound as a pound. Double stitched seams
The only sign of wear is with the cloth cover of the insole, which has halfway detached in one of the shoes. The highlight is the Vibram sole that is incredibly sticky in the wet and their comfortable everyday fit. Average price: £80
Reading…
Kayaking with Eric Jackson: Rolling and Bracing By Eric Jackson
http://store.jacksonkayak.com/rolling-and-bracing-book-kayakingwith-eric-jackson/ The Cover Shot illustrates a failed brace, while the inside of the book illustrates how to teach yourself to do it right! Get your copy today and get your brace and roll to be your strong suits!
Riding the Tears of Everest by Sagamartha Cries and Darren Clarkson-King
www.himalayanmaphouse.com The simple thoughts and observations of a group of British kayakers who ventured to the top of the world. This book is a brief account of the expedition that changed the attitudes of the men. Available in 2017.
Sevylor Ottawa Inflatable Kayak www.sevylor-europe.com
For those amongst who love to share their experiences whilst paddling, then the Ottawa inflatable kayak is designed for you with its streamlined shape and directional tracking via its attachable skeg. The Ottawa offers excellent comfort with a new seat construction that is raised from the floor that reduces drag and can be configured inch-by-inch, which makes leg room adjustments a snap. It all combines to feel as solid as a plastic kayak once inflated and paddles like a dream.
Removable seats easily turn the kayak into a three or two-person boat
The Ottawa is aimed at families, able to seat two adults and a child comfortably on the water. When used as a tandem kayak, the Ottawa has plenty of extra storage space for kit and supplies, handy for overnight trips and long days out. When finished, simply deflate and store in the supplied dry bag – totally sealed and waterproof. Average price: £525
Kitsound Outrun wireless earbuds www.kitsound.co.uk
For those who prefer their music on the go whilst paddling have quickly learned that wired earphones are a n- go. the constant snagging and untangling is just not worth the effort in the long run. The Outruns do have a wire to join the earpieces together but that runs conveniently around the back of the neck and do not interfere. Located on the cable are the volume and playback controls plus the battery compartment. To prevent the earpieces being pulled out of the ear, Kitsound utilize a couple of earhooks that do the job very well. and they are helped by the tips of which you are offered three different sizes for a secure fit. These earphones are also sweat resistant and certified to IPX4, meaning they’ll withstand splashes but not being submerged in water – so be careful. Battery life is around five hours depending on volume. The Outruns use a bluetooth connection and I paired them with my iPhone 6S without any problems and without dropouts of any kind that nicely leads us to the sound quality. On a star chart I would give them somewhere between 3.5-4 out of five. The feel of the bass does depend on which size tip you choose with the smallest tip size giving the least. Overall, a really neat pair of headphones that outshine similar sets from big brands at twice the price and we would happily recommend them.
Price: £52/$105/€95
Celtic Paddles the brighter paddlers choice Pick up a Celtic Pro paddle online at www.celticpaddles.com Celtic Pro paddles now with reflective graphics
www.celticpaddles.com - sales@celticpaddles.com
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Staying warm for the winter paddles Phil Carr of unsponsored.co.uk gives his take on what to wear to keep you warm and toasty when the going gets cold. Staying both warm and dry makes any kayaking adventure that much more pleasant. I've been kayaking for over 25 years now and I am amazed how much the kit has moved on during that time. Way back then, getting soaked to the bone was pretty much a standard feature of paddling, even if you didn't swim. Even though staying dry is much easier and therefore makes keeping warm itself so much easier, it's important to get your insulation layers right. Being cold is not just uncomfortable and it can also be life threatening. Having the right gear for the right conditions is key at any time of the year but the margin for error during the colder seasons is much tighter. I tend not to feel the cold as most folk but I still pick my insulation layers really carefully to make sure that I not only stay nice and toasty warm but that I do not overheat. I personally find overheating far worse than being too cold.
Base layer Immersion Research K2 Union Suit www.immersionresearch.com
As in any outdoor sport layering is the key. A few thin layers will always be better than one big thick layer. For most normal conditions in the UK I wear a thin merino thermal top, long or short depending on the dry top/suit I am wearing and will often supplement this with another merino thermal. If it’s really cold I will use a onesie from Immersion Research named the K2 Union suit.The Union suit is a one piece thermal suit that has no zips, poppers or any other fastenings to worry about.This reduces the chances of discomfort and will prevent any drafts or bare bits of flesh. This is often an issue with two piece systems. I’ve been using the Union suit for a couple of years. I initially thought that it would be a struggle getting into suit through the neck. On first glance it doesn't look big enough or stretchy enough to squeeze through. But it is. I found the K2 to be spot on. It wicks well and has a good balance of warmth vs bulk. It is super comfy to wear and if it does get wet dries quickly. Taking the suit off is a bit of an art. It takes a little bit of practice before you can do it elegantly but it doesn't take long to get a hold of.
Top/trouser combo or dry suit Palm Atom
http://palmequipmenteurope.com
Keeping dry inside makes keeping warm that much easier. Even some of the twopiece systems (dry top and dry trousers) available are getting close to being as good as a dry suit. Price is sometimes much better as is the flexibility of the system. Palm’s Atom is available as both a complete dry suit or as a two piece.
Footwear FiveTen WaterTennies www.fiveten.com
Wet river banks and slippery rocks are not a great combination if you have dodgy footwear. A good pair of river shoes or boots are worth their weight in gold and I’m still currently using Five Ten Water Tennies and the Palm Gradient boots from last year. Footwear with a good sole will also help insulate your feet from the cold ground.
Socks Gul 4mm Power Sock
www.gul.com
High performance racing demands high performance kit. Kit that helps you move. Helps you breathe. Helps you deliver. The KB1 is engineered to perform. Tough. Versatile. Lightweight. Waterproof. Everything you need to win – not just compete.
Hands
www.typhoon-int.co.uk Pogies or gloves. Cold hands are almost worse than cold feet. If you aren’t able to hold your paddle then you are pretty stuffed. Palm and Immersion Research make some really good neoprene pogies that are warm even when wet and can really help keep wind chill off your hands. Some paddlers like gloves but sometimes they can feel a little bulky and can make holding the paddle more difficult. However some years ago I had a pair of Typhoon neoprene gloves that worked fantastically.
Head gear
www.systemxeurope.com
A Buff for wearing under your helmet or even as an extra barrier to catch any drips of water that manage to find their way through your neck seal. If you want something a little more specialist for keeping your head warm then the Playboater Earwig is a solid choice.
Spare/emergency gear https://aquapac.net
A good set of emergency kit in a dry bag is always a good idea but is even more important when it is cold. I carry a “When it all goes wrong kit” for a bad turn of events.
Getting changed
Warm kit to get changed into after a day on the river is also a good idea. I like to carry plenty of stuff in the car. A big down jacket is always a good move. If you can, retreat to a good pub or cafe at the end of the day. A big mug of tea and some cake always goes down well.
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To whom it may concern… I am writing to complain about my ‘quiet weekend’ in the sleepy Irish town of Buncrana. I booked the weekend of 21-23rd October in the rather excellent Westbrook House B&B. I was looking forward to visiting Father Hegarty’s Rock and perhaps relaxing with a book borrowed from the Wee Free Library in Swan Park. Westbrook House has a lovely little babbling stream at the bottom of the mature garden and I planned to rest there in the shade of the trees.
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I was greatly disappointed therefore to discover that Inish Adventures, a local ‘outdoors’ company, had persuaded Donegal County Council and Uisce Éireann (Irish Water) to release water from a dam upstream of the town and the little brook had become an absolute torrent of white water! My hopes for an enjoyable weekend were further dashed when I realised that every kayaker in the country and many from further afield, knew about this ‘Cranafest’ event. Every third car in the town was topped with at least one, but usually three or four garishly coloured kayak boats. This was shaping up to be a dreadful weekend, so I made my way into the town for a quiet half-pint of low-alcohol beer. When I got to O’Flaherty’s I was outraged to find that the pub was absolutely heaving with these paddlers, laughing, talking loudly and boasting about how they would defeat the infamous ‘Claw’ this year. I abandoned my attempts to have a peaceful drink and retired, disgusted, to bed. As soon as I woke on Saturday morning I looked out the window of my room to see a dozen people standing on the road looking over the bridge, talking and pointing at the water below. I changed hurriedly out of my favourite paisley-print pyjamas and rushed down for a better look. I was shocked to see people hurling themselves off the raging waterfall in their little boats! I crossed the road into Swan Park so I could give these reckless hooligans a piece of my mind and stopped in horror!
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The normally tranquil Swan Park had been transformed into some sort of hideous rave party. There was popular rock music blaring from multiple loudspeakers throughout the park and over 400 kayakers standing on the banks of the river, or bobbing along in the water, dressed in their ludicrous outfits and apparently enjoying themselves thoroughly – utterly oblivious to my rage at their antics. The river only runs through Swan Park for a few hundred metres, but the whole way along (I had to walk up and down several times to show my outrage), the ruffians were not only throwing themselves down drops and along wave trains and playing in the waves and weirs, but there
were so-called ‘experts’ teaching others to make the most of the many dangerous river features. They were slaloming up and down through poles strung up over the water plus ‘White Water racing’ and learning to compete in ‘freestyle’ competitions – leading innocent children astray in freezing cold water. Oh the children pretended to enjoy it, with their laughter and gleeful chatter but I know they were being forced to do it against their will. This disgraceful behaviour went on all day, and although I tried constantly to show my distaste, the ruffians kept smiling and being suspiciously polite. I knew they were planning something outrageous.
After dark
In hopes of catching the troublemakers in some act of criminality, I stayed up past my usual bedtime and sneaked down to the bottom of the garden after dark. The ringleaders had strung lights up along the ‘Claw’ and added extra obstacles for the reckless participants to overcome. It was like a scene from one of those dreadful American car racing films. There were crowds of spectators standing on the banks of the river, cheering as over 100 competitors raced to achieve the fastest time on the treacherous course. Oh everything looked very well organised with their official commentators and the WMSAR safety team all the way up from Waterford, but I have no doubt that such sensational daredevil activity must surely be illegal in some way. I was tired on Sunday morning, after my late night, so I walked to the Coffee Cup in Buncrana town. Despite the high quality of the coffee, I was disappointed that the staff didn’t share my displeasure at the weekend antics on the river. It seems that the whole town supports this madness.
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By the time I returned to the Park, the tomfoolery had reached new lows, with up to a dozen paddlers racing headlong down the river side by side in what they called ‘boater cross’ races. Then there were races with groups of ne’er-do-wells in large inflatable rafts paddling down the river, apparently completely out of control. As the afternoon drew on, the organisers arranged a prize-giving event, with trophies supplied by Argento, the jewellers, and everybody but me appeared to have had a wonderful time.
So that was it. A whole weekend ruined. I’m very disappointed because Failte Ireland are normally very good, but I will certainly not recommend Buncrana – especially on 20th-22nd October 2017 when Inish Adventures have already started planning to run the biggest ever whitewater event in Ireland.
Horrific!
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PADDE PD DLR LER Kayak y
024 Interview with…
Freestyle Champ Quim Fontané Masó
034 Hurley
A classic weekend by Steffan Meyric Hughes
044 Coaching Safety Series No.5 What if… by Chris Brain
058 South African WW series
No.2 Swaziland and Lowveld by Luke Longridge
068 Kenya
The Tana River Festival by Glenn Richards
074 Nepal
Easter rum and whisky hunt by Matt Cooke
088 India
The Parvati River by Steve Brooks
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An interview with…
QUIF M ONT
TN T ANÉ MAÓ ASÓ Quim on the White Nile by Dennis Newton
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W
here and what was your first paddle and competition?
I don’t remember my first time on a kayak… However old family pictures suggest it must have been somewhere in la Costa Brava on a Topo Duo.
What got you hooked on freestyle and WW kayaking? In 2004, Gerd Serrasolses was the first member of the club who made it to an international competition – the 2004 Freestyle Euros in Sort. All the club and its kayak school went there to support our very best paddler, who at that time didn’t even make the prelims cut.Times of course have changed… Both Aniol and Gerd became Sickline Champions, my sister Núria won the World Cup and Euros twice, my mate Adrià Bosch became World Champ in Plattling and this year I managed to pull my third European title under my belt.
Quim by Nu ria Fontane
I was also very influenced by the first edits of the YGP crew: New Reign and Dynasty. I’m pretty sure no paddler has seen these DVDs more times than I have and was pretty angry the day someone from the club decided to steal them from the club’s van. Luckily enough, Rush let me steal those masterpieces from his PC in one of my trips to Uganda, so I still watch them every now and then and still feel the fire burning!.
Before we start – just let our readers know a little about yourself, history, background etc. I was born and raised in the beautiful city of Girona, the capital of ‘la Costa Brava’. I like to think that the character of the Mediterranean shaped my identity both as a paddler and a soul. Like the Ter, my beloved hometown river, my personality tends to be calmed, affable and warm, however just as the Ter changes with the rainfalls in autumn and spring, my character changes when competing and chasing my goals. My parents founded my hometown kayaking club in 1996: the Salt-ter Kayak Club. I was lucky enough to have Gerd Serrasolses as a trainer and Aniol Serrasolses as my kayaking best friend when we started to paddle on the Ter’s waters. I have always combined kayaking with studies; I’m now studying a master on Sport Management in the University of Loughborough while training in the National Water Sports Centre.
What are the advantages of being a SystemX team paddler? System X is the biggest whitewater distributor in Europe and offers some of the best whitewater kit out there such as Kokatat and Werner Paddles.They also have a really good customers service. It’s a true pleasure to represent them anywhere I go.
some credit as a ‘spot-builder’ by then and was allowed to rebuild the spot with a proper machine. My favourite river in Catalonia is the Upper Noguera, it has continuous class IV whitewater in one of the most beautiful and untouched valleys of the Pyrenees. If you ever find yourself in the Pyrenees during the springtime this one is a river you cannot miss.
Quim at Hurley 2014 by Peter Tranter
My favourite place to paddle is la Pilastra Whitewater Park on the Ter River. This little stretch of class II-III whitewater has taught me almost everything I know. I have spent many hours playing around moving boulders to create whitewater features and I created my very own hand-made hole, which helped me to become European Champion for the first time in 2012. Unfortunately, the hole was washed out by a flood, however, I had already achieved
Quim Fo onttta ané é Ma assó a
Tell us about the spots you tend to paddle the most frequent in Spain. Where are your favourites?
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Quim Q uim Fonta t né Mas ta aó as
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Early doors we know, but what is the biggest accomplishment in your career up to date?
I’d say that my biggest accomplishment is to develop my very own way to freestyle using my explosiveness and speed, linking moves and combos one after the other. I have started to see bits of this style with some of my competitors and even some up and coming paddlers. This means you’re driving change and influencing people who are watching your kayaking and that’s a great compliment!
What projects and future expeditions are you currently working on?
My goal for this year is to become Freestyle World Champion. I’m planning to train in the cleverest way I can using the knowledge I have achieved from my degree on Sport Sciences. With the very bad news that some of the best freestyle playgrounds on earth: the Zambezi and the White Nile will soon be lost, I think it’s time for us freestylers to find new destinations to keep up with the progression of the discipline. Once I finish my Masters, I hope I can start to do some expeditions to find these new freestyle playgrounds that I’m sure are hiding in Africa and Asia. I will need a team for that… guess I should start finding myself a few friends who’d like to share those adventures?
What would be your ultimate achievement?
People who have changed the game in their own sport inspire me. People who have their very own way to ride and to understand the sport; Candide Thoevex, Kelly Slater, Shaun White, Leo Messi, Michel Jordan or Muhammed Ali.
Quim at Hurley 2015 by Peter Tranter
I’d like to finish my career knowing that I had an influence on the sport, maybe the change won’t be as big as the one that those guys I just mentioned above achieved, but I’d like to help the sport to move forward and I think that there’s nothing cooler than putting you grain of sand on the evolution of a sport you love.
Can you talk about your training? Greatest inspiration? Role models/who/what kept you motivated? In order to keep the motivation and the fire burning, the top priority is to keep it fun. During my years as a student of sport sciences I have got to know people who didn’t even like their sport, they didn’t enjoy going out to practise it. When something isn’t fun, it is very hard to keep the motivation unless money is in the equation. Luckily or unluckily (still not sure), most paddlers will never experience the extrinsic motivator that money is, so they will need to keep paddling for the love.The day I don’t enjoy paddling anymore, I will need to haung up my paddle, however, it is very unlikely that this day will come anytime soon. As a kid, I was inspired by Mat Dumoulin, James Bebbington, Pat Camblin and Rush Sturges. Today I get inspired by any paddler who can do a trick in a different or more stylish way than I know I could do it… there are many of them and there are consequently many learning opportunities. There’s still a long way to go for me.
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Quim promoting freestyle in Barcelona by Stephan Mandel.
Quim Fo onttta ané é Ma assó a
Who is your nearest competitor in the world of freestyle?
Let’s be fair. I had always looked at Mr. Dane Jackson as the guy to beat, however, now that I’m 23, I start to feel the pressure coming from the generations behind me… Until now I was chasing the big-old guys and now I’m starting to feel like the big-old guy being chased. So I’d better watch my back closely because those guys are shameless, have no mercy and they’re coming for us.
If you could capture just one ‘feel good’ moment in your kayaking expeditions/competitions – which would it be and why?
Full moon night paddling session on the Nile Special being a bit too drunk after a great night on the Hairy Lemon!
If you could head anywhere in the world to freestyle where would it be and what appeals about the location?
The White Nile. It can’t get any better than this! Incredible country and people, world-class waves, appealing temperatures to paddle. I would like to go to Stakeout but I’m always very lazy about kayaking when it’s cold… So if I had to choose right now, with rain hitting my window, I’d definitely go for the Pearl of Africa rather than the frozen Quebec (Mediterranean influence again?).
Which do you prefer: taking part in competitions such as the Freestyle World Champs or big water expeditions and why?
To my opinion there’s a moment for everything. I love setting myself goals in the big international events and train hard to achieve those goals. However, every now and then my soul asks for a committing gorge, my creekboat and lots of rapids to overcome. I like and enjoy every facet of whitewater kayaking, the trick is to find the perfect balance between them so your fire never stops burning for any of the disciplines.
When preparing for an expedition to a far away place in challenging conditions – what are the qualities you look for in a fellow teammate kayaker?
I would only go to a hardcore mission with someone I’ve been paddling for years and know how he/she’d react in every situation. I have found myself too many times paddling with a group of very good paddlers, who only look for themselves. To me kayaking is about sharing amazing experiences with your friends, not racing down the river or holding a competition to see who can lap a drop more times!
What’s the one river that would be on your bucket list? The Salween River in China.
I’m a paddler and looking for the perfect river, where would you recommend?
Have you heard of the Sjoa River in Norway? It’s a classic amongst classics and offers something for everyone. Just make sure you stay hard right on the first Sbend of the Amot Gorge to avoid the undercut. Ended up down there once while raft-guiding and it wasn’t a pleasant experience.
Where do you see yourself in 20 years?
Putting up a bonfire in the middle of the Grand Canyon with my son/daughter.
What do you do when not kayaking?
Not kayaking? What is that? Haha… I just like outdoor sports in general, travelling the world and making the most out of this beautiful adventure called life.
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Quickies…
If you could paddle with anyone in the world dead or alive who would it be? My father.
Pick two celebrities to be your parents. No, thanks.
Which famous person would you most like to see play you in a film? Tom Welling.
Are you a bathroom/shower singer and if so what do you sing?
Yes, I’d be whistling the intro of some random kayaking film… Like that violin on the Dynasty Intro… Yes I’m a freaks.
Name one actor/actress you would love to get naughty with? Rush Sturges? Ok he’s more kind of a producer… but who cares?
Facebook or Twitter?
Facebook, although I’ve recently discovered Instagram… follow me:)
An ideal night out for you is?
If you’re with your people, the place doesn’t really matter; chilling in the pub, breaking the dance floor or having a beer around a bonfire next to a river.
What one luxury item would you take with you on a desert island?
A triple-layer toilet roll and lots of pistachios… they are my favourite snack and don’t get why they are so expensive! They also give you lots of energy so I’d last a bit longer.
What’s in your fridge right now?
Desperados and lots of cheap pre-cooked lasagna.
If we came to your house for dinner, what would you prepare for us? I’d like to say I’d prepare the typical Catalan ‘paella’, however, I have no clue about how to prepare it. Might need to give a call to my mum.
What’s the most boring question you are often asked?
‘Is the water cold?’ or ‘Why are you trying to paddle up this waterfall?’ Seriously non-kayakers, try harder!
If you could be a superhero for one day, what superpower would you choose and why?
If it was only for one day I’d like to be able to teleport from one world-class wave to another… although they might not all be at the same time… now, that’s a problem!
Favourite sport’s team?
F.C. Barcelona and Team River Beasts.
Favourite film? Gladiator or Matrix.
Favourite musical track?
I really like Nneka and C2C but I’d be hard to choose one track.
What three words would you use to describe you? Passionate, gentle, brave.
Many thanks Quim out of your hectic
Quim Fo onttta ané é Ma assó a
m for all of your help and taking the time c schedule for us – we really appreciate it:)
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O N
T H E
S T O R M :
URE UL RLE
R I D E R S
C L A S S
I C
2 0 1 6 November No ovvember sees sees England England at at its its exquisitely exquisitely disappointing disappointing best besstt – a mudscape mudscape of of drowned drro owned leaves leaavves and and rushing rushing skies, skies, short shorrtt days daayys and and cold cold mornings mornings that thaatt bite bite into into the the skin skin like likkee acid. acid. For For kayakers kkaaayyyaakkeers though, though, it’s it’s a second second spring, spring, laden laden with with the the blossom of of equinoctial equinoccttial rains rraains from ffrrro om the the lowlowblossom prreessurree systems syssttems that thaatt start ssttarrtt to to come come in in from ffrrro om the the pressure Attlantic. Playboaters A Plaayyboaatters in in the the south south of of England England listen lisstten Atlantic. to the the beating beaatting rain rraain and and wonder wonder when when Hurley Hurley Weir Weeir W to will be be ‘on ‘on three’. thrreee’. will By Steffan Stefffffa an Meyric Me ey yric Hughes Hughes By Photos by by Jack Jack Gunter Gunter Photos https://///w ww w ww w w..insta w ag gram.com//jjack__g gunterr// https://www.instagram.com/jack_gunter/ https://///w ww w ww w w..ffa w acebook.com/ https://www.facebook.com/ JackGunterPhotography y// JackGunterPhotography/
Alan Ward ThePADDLER 35
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For Hurley Classic organiser, Andrew ‘Jacko’ Jackson, it was a mixed blessing: “I heard the wind rattling my windows and worried about the tent!” Either the huge marquee (hire cost: £4,000!) would blow down, or there would be a good release – or maybe both. Thankfully the tent stayed up and the rains slowly started to make their presence felt in the feature. The catchment area of the Upper Thames is large and grassy, so run off is far from instantaneous but there was enough for lock-keeper Giles to move up to two gates on Sunday morning. My own adventure started driving up from home on the Sussex coast, dodging fallen trees and huge puddles, but it was clear on Sunday morning, with the carpark of sponsor SAS filled with cars, boats and paddlers, that Hurley was on.
Nick Troutman 2014 champ by Antony Edmonds
The lead-up to this year’s Hurley Classic freestyle comp on 19-20 November on the upper Thames was a bit fraught, given the exceptionally dry autumn, but there was enough water for a 1.5-gate release on the Saturday, and everyone made the most of the conditions for the team freestyle and other events.That night, the sky split as Storm Angus slammed into southern England, bringing power cuts, heavy rain and 80mph+ wins.
Alan Ward 2015 champ by Peter Tranter
Hurley Classic has run since 1989, when it was set up by old school legend Sean Baker. Current organiser Andrew ‘Jacko’ Jackson has held the reins since 2004, expanding the event into one of the biggest freestyle kayaking events in the world, beaten in terms of sheer participation by the National Student Rodeo, but not in terms of the feature, or the quality of paddlers. These days, many of the best in the world come from near and far to paddle at Hurley. In recent years, the event has seen a north American invasion, with the world’s best wave riders coming to take glory in the old country. In 2013, it was US veteran Stephen Wright who won the men’s, then Canadian Nick Troutman in 2014. In 2015, local hero Alan Ward took the title back.
Islay Crosbie
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It was not a big two-gate release, but don’t underestimate Hurley on two. In the right hands, every move in the book can be thrown. If you’ve never seen airscrews and helixes in the flesh, you’ll see them here, although they’re hard to retain on a feature this size. Stephen Wright, over from the USA and riding for Jackson in the new carbon 2016 Rockstar (the ‘Garburator boat’), looked strong from the get-go, and in the end, his winning ride composed of helix, pistol flip and airscrew both sides (score: 615) only separated him from locals Gav Barker (610) and Alan Ward (590) by a whisker, showing how tough it is at the top in kayak freestyle these days – a long call from 1989, when you either got a nice pirouette or had to settle for an ‘intendo’! In the women’s, it was good to see Lowri Davies take her first title with a 140 ride, after an incredibly close heat with Ottilie Robinson-Shaw, still a junior – so one to watch in the future. I caught up with Stephen Wright by the Square Rock van, who told us, “I love the energy of this event – it’s like the start of the season – for most, it’ll be the first time in a long time that they’ve paddled here.” Of course, it can’t hurt that he’s spreading the gospel of his sponsor, Jackson Kayak. A few years ago at Hurley, it felt as though Jackson was the only playboat maker in the world. This year there was the usual sea of Allstars and Rockstars with a smattering of Pyranha Jeds and Wavesport Projects, but noticeably more carbon boats from European makers like Gui Gui and Vajda. One thing is for sure – carbon build is on the up, and with the price difference narrowing down, it will soon no longer be the preserve of the elites.
CLAS CA ASSIC
Lowri Davies ThePADDLER 39
ThePADDLER 40 Other attractions were the ‘Hurley Horn’, where paddlers are called up to take ‘the throne’ to win prizes from sponsors, the Boater X that has become an established event and, new for this year, the surprisingly entertaining World Rolling Championships. When I heard this was to be in a pool, I had a vision of a heated, turquoise swimming pool, but actually it consisted of two crappy tarpaulin tanks filled with cold, brown river water, each containing an ageing, footrest-less RotoBat in which competitors were timed doing ten consecutive rolls of any kind. Paddlers took turns while their friends jeered at them thrashing around in a tank of murky water. The general effect was crummy, low-budget and humiliating – perfect, basically. I hope it becomes a regular feature. The winners here were the hand-rollers, with Chris Lowe taking the men’s title with an extraordinary technique giving him 10 rolls in just 15 seconds, and Elisabeth Dirninger taking the women’s title.
Pete Scutt triumphed in the Boater X, largely due to inspired boat choice – a Dancer! At two miles long and with pointy ends, nothing could be faster. Alan Ward won the Hurley Super Championship (a cross-discipline challenge) followed by fellow local Doug Cooper, with Jana Joeressen taking it in the women’s, followed by Elisabeth Dirninger.
The food seemed better this year too – handmade spicy wedgies and a stacked bacon roll for £4 was perfect.The only problem with the day was not knowing our results until Wednesday morning, so crowing/teasing/ congratulating had to be done by Facebook! Of my own crew, Michael Shaw scored 132, placing him in the top third for the first time,Thomas Sloane (big, fat zero) Adam White, who would have been in a class of his own in his squirt boat but missed his ride while getting changed, and your humble correspondent, awarded 7.5 sympathy points for a spin-to-flush combo.Thanks judges! We will return… For full results, go to hurleyclassic.co.uk, and check out the YouTube where the life feed is now a nine-hour long video showing the whole event. It’s a very well filmed event.
BOT OAE ATR TEX ERX Pete Scutt
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INFORMATION
HURLEY WEIR on the upper Thames has long been a wavesurfing mecca in the south-east of England because of its proximity to London, accessibility, reliability and safety. It features four gates and works best on three. It runs reasonably reliably from October through to around March/April and is in fact one of a number of other upper Thames weirs popular with freestyle paddlers, among them Marsh, Shepperton and Sunbury.These are less reliable but just as good, if not better, when they hit their sweet spot.The place to go for info on Thames weirs is the Thames Valley Freestylers website: tvfreestylers.co.uk.
https://goo.gl/maps/dB3HLBchNvE2
Hurley Classic AS FOR HURLEY? On two or three gates, it’s a very manageable, very fast, medium-sized surf wave that’s ideal for beginners to the game – it’s a tiny bit OTT for those who’ve never surfed a wave before, but with a clean run-off and deep water, there is nothing to fear here. And it’s incredibly easy to get on the wave from the eddy on river left. It’s also a good spot, on three gates or more, to get used to wide, turbulent eddy lines. Beginners would be best to avoid it on four gates, when it becomes more retentive and can deal out a beating. Access is easy, with parking in the village car park and the village itself has a couple of nice, old pubs: the Rising Sun and Olde Bell.
THE CLASSIC is held every October/November and has been held since 1989 with the odd cancellation (last time in 2011, due to lack of rain). Entry this year was £17, which includes entry to the event and a T-shirt. Extra events, like the Boater X, rolling comp, team freestyle, banquet on the Saturday night and so on, are charged separately. A £20 returnable cash deposit was needed to secure bibs.
THINK OF HURLEY CLASSIC AS THE LONDON MARATHON – the world’s best will be there hoping to win, but it’s mostly a friendly, amateur event to encourage paddlers. You will be scored for trying moves or, as I was, for nailing a move but flushing, which is not strict ICF, where the scoring is more demanding.This year there were plenty of paddlers who could barely make it onto the wave, not to mention a couple of swimmers. It doesn’t matter. If you’re wondering whether or not you’re up to making it in 2017, the answer is simple – you are ready for this.
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C O A C H I N G
No.5…
S A F E T Y
WHT HAT IF…
S E R I E S
In the fifth part of the Paddler safety series we will be looking at incident management. Why do things go wrong, what can we do to avoid something happening and if it does happen how do we deal with it. By Chris Brain It is important to remember that there is no substitute for professional training in this area and this must be combined with experience to effectively use the ideas and techniques contained in this series. This article is not intended to replace formal training. Our previous articles have focused on preparation, simple rescues, working together on the river and above all avoiding incidents happening in the first place. The techniques covered in this article assume that you have read the previous chapters.
No. 1: https://joom.ag/hdaQ/p50
No. 2: https://joom.ag/JeqQ/p96
No. 3: https://joom.ag/PdyQ/p38
No. 4: https://joom.ag/XfUQ/p42
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Why do incidents happen?
Rather than starting with looking at how to solve the problem, we should think about why the problem occurs in the first place. When I look back at most of the incidents and situations that I have had to deal with on the river, they are rarely caused by an individual freak occurrence or one catastrophic moment or bad decision. Usually these incidents can be traced back to small decisions and moments earlier on in the day which create a snowball effect gathering momentum until it is too big to control, leaving us with our bigger incident to deal with at the end. Even simple things like not bringing food or arriving to the river late or putting on wet kit can all start the process towards a future incident. Our job is to spot these issues early and deal with them before they contribute to something bigger. As paddlers we can borrow the research already available in this field and apply it to our environment. In 2004 Ian McCammon wrote a paper which detailed his investigation into the human factors that contributed to 715 recreational avalanche incidents taking place between 1972 and 2003. McCammon states that, “Even though people are capable of making decisions in a thorough and methodical way, it appears that most of the time they don’t.” McCammon suggested that the common factor in all the incidents that he studied was the mental shortcuts that we use to speed up our decision making process in every day life known as heuristics. We use these mental shortcuts every day in our life so that we don’t have to process to much information for our routine tasks, however if we apply these shortcuts to an environment as dynamic and individual as the river we can quickly become mislead by them and make mistakes. He categorized these common processes, referring to them as the heuristic traps. I have summarised these traps briefly here.
Familiarity If we know the venue well, we assume that it will always be the same and we behave and do things the way we always have done. Since we know the venue well, we are also more likely to expose ourselves to more risk than those who are there for the first time. Consistency Continuing with the plan because it is the plan. Here we might follow up on one bad decision with another, continuing down this path simply because it was our original intention and we feel we must see it through to the end. Acceptance As humans, we have a need to be accepted by our peers and this has a strong effect on our behaviour and decision making. McCammon suggests that we are far more likely to take risks if we believe that those around us will accept us. Social facilitation If we are being watched (or filmed) then we are more likely to expose ourselves to higher risks than we would otherwise. Scarcity of resource If we perceive that our resource is rare (e.g. water levels), then we will take higher risks because of this. If we have travelled a long way to get to our venue or we don’t have many opportunities to take part in our chosen activity then we will push ourselves in a more dangerous way than we would if we had these conditions regularly. The halo effect Simply put, we are more likely to take risks in the presence of an expert. However, McCammon suggests that the issue lies in who we see as an expert and that we may be drawn into this trap due to someone’s personality and our own perceptions of them rather than being guided by their actual experience and/or qualifications
Make three plans, ideal, safe, safest
Advanced water requires advanced considerations ThePADDLER 47
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Effective planning and communication, everyone contributing to decisions
Get yourself on a first aid course
Avoidance
Avoidance starts with effective planning, gathering up to date information from a variety of resources and making good decisions right from the start. Try to come up with a range of options for your day out on the water, what is our ideal plan? However, do we have options that are less risky should water levels be higher than expected? Do we have a ‘safer’ and ‘safest’ plan? Bearing in mind that our safest plan might be to not get on the water at all. Good communication is also critical to avoiding an incident occurring. We want to create an environment where everyone can contribute to a successful trip. By having appointed (or self-appointed) leaders, we risk creating a culture of ‘followership’ and we can quickly fall into the trap of the Halo Effect mentioned above. Yes, we might have people who take more of a lead role, but we should be empowering our team to help with decisions, to feel able to question any decision made and ultimately take responsibility for themselves as much as possible.
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ThePaddle r ez ine Being aware of McCammon’s heuristic traps is one thing, but activity te trying to avoid falling into them is another thing.
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Removing risk completely isn’t something that we can do with 100% certainty and in some cases an incident could be completely unforeseen. We need to be observant for the moments that can be seen and strive to make decisions that will have a positive impact on the outcome of the trip. Many issues in the outdoors arise when the group is mismatched with the environment and we should be mindful of this when we are planning our time on the water
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dle rs - e mail us: r eviews@t he When it comes to first aid, as paddlers we have some priorities for our casualties, we need to keep paddle rez them breathing, stop bleeding and keep them warm ine
What if…
Shout at them and check for a response, open their airway and check if they are breathing. If they are not breathing pinch their nose, lift the chin and give them five breaths. If they still haven’t shown any signs of recovery start CPR giving 30 compressions followed by two breaths repeatedly. At this stage someone needs to be calling for help, (if you are on your own, do the five breaths followed by a minute of CPR before you call for help). When giving CPR push down hard in the centre of the chest (with a depth of about a third of their body), try and avoid the PFD absorbing your force so either go underneath the PFD straight onto the chest or remove it if you can. Keep your CPR going and remember someone else could take over if you become tired.
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m .co
Keep them breathing Our biggest fear in paddlesport in probably having someone unconscious or trapped in the water, our first job is to get their head above the water and get them out. For these kind of situations a hands-on approach (if it is safe to do so) typically has more success than one involving complicated rope systems. If your casualty is floating in the water, clip them into a sling and pull them to the side while you are still in your boat so you get them out of the water as quickly as possible.
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Stopping bleeding When we are out on the river we don’t usually fix people, all we do is provide a temporary solution until someone else with better kit/knowledge/skills takes over. Most of our first aid is minor (cuts, grazes and bumps) and we need some simple solutions for that. The issue that we have as paddlers is that traditional first aid items such as plasters and dressings don’t tend to work very well in the wet on their own. A product that has been a real game changer for me when giving first aid on the riverside has been Vetrap. Produced by 3M,Vetrap is a self-cohesive bandage, it contains latex so isn’t affected when it gets wet, it is stretchy and only sticks to itself. It also sticks even if we are wet so it is perfect for us. The product was originally aimed at the animal care market (as the product wont stick to fur) but for paddlers the applications are far beyond that. Anything from broken fingers, to grazed knuckles, twisted ankles and giving shoulder support can all be managed with this product. As it is only a bandage and not a dressing you will still need something underneath it if you are trying to stop bleeding, but Vetrap will certainly help keep that dressing in place when you are on or next to the river. If we are stopping a major bleed (which is a rare injury in paddlesport) we need something bigger and better to do the job. I carry a military dressing which can give plenty of compression and has a big pad on it too. These dressings are usually vacuum packed and are about the size of a cassette tape so are very easily carried in a first aid kit.
I try and keep my first aid kit quite simple.
Emergency instructions and a casualty card – including a pencil to write on it with Gloves – let’s keep things as clean as possible Antiseptic wipes – keeping minor cuts clean Plasters and steri strips – for dealing with small injuries Military dressing – these give better compression and are easier to use Melolin pads – which can be cut down if needed to use with the vetrap Vetrap – multiple uses, I don’t leave home without it Shears – if you are going to cut a cag or drysuit it is much easier than using your river knife Face shield – for CPR Tape – always handy to have a little bit in a first aid kit Triangular bandage – cut to an XL size from plastic sheeting so it can go over PFDs and bigger people My spare inhaler – just in case its needed Aspirin – 300mg tablets for heart attack Rehydration sachets – for dehydrated paddlers Ibuprofen and paracetamol – simple pain relief Tick remover – avoid lyme disease by getting rid these little critters
Vetrap is excellent for head injuries
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Using a simple plastic sheet we can immobilise injuries and give support
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If our casualties don’t have enough energy to produce their own heat their temperature will most likely be dropping, having some spare emergency food is always a good idea on any trip. I carry a couple of energy bars and energy gels on most days out on the river which should be enough to give most paddlers a boost. Don’t forget how tiring swimming is and if one of your team has been in the water they will have used up a huge amount of energy and will have had a burst of adrenaline. I try and encourage most swimmers to have a quick bite to eat if they can to replenish their energy levels as after their swim the last thing I want is for them to be in the water again on the next rapid.
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Keeping warm
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If our swimmer (or injured paddler’s) extremities are getting cold I carry a few items of kit which should help in this situation, a buff and a set of mittens. A buff is great because it can be used in so many ways to warm head, neck and hands and the mittens are easy to put on to warm up the hands, putting on gloves when wet and cold is never easy!
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If we are going to be waiting for help to arrive we must consider not only keeping our casualty warm but also keeping ourselves and the rest of the group warm too. We can wrap our casualties up in as many foil blankets as we like, but if we don’t have a way of keeping ourselves warm we will need help in the long run too, a perfect solution this issue is a group shelter. A simplistic piece of equipment, think of it as a flysheet for a tent which is pulled over several people to create a micro climate inside. Having the team sat in the shelter not only gives structure but it also creates heat which will help to keep your injured paddler warm as well as the rest of the group. Many modern shelters are lightweight and can of course be used repeatedly, they are great for lunch stops and planning meetings by the riverside too!!
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If our paddler still can’t get warm I carry a survival jacket made by a company called Blizzard. Based in North Wales they make a fantastic material called reflexcell which d is significantly warmer than a rs -material standard foil blanket due to its complex construction. Blizzard uselethis to create a ‘one size e m a i l fits all’ type jacket and then vacuum it down to the size of a few slices of breadusso to : rethat vieits wseasy @thepa carry and store in the back of our boat. The good thing with the blizzard jackets is our cold paddler ddle rez can still move and work on generating their own heat.You could certainly paddle wearing this jacket ine although I wouldn’t want to run anything hard in it.
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What next? I often say that you, your brain and a phone are the most important things that you can have with you when dealing with a situation, you would be surprised what you can do with a bit of improvisation and motivation, however once we have dealt with our immediate issues we have the problem of what do we do now? Calling for help is essential to dealing with a situation, in the UK we would call 999 (or we can call 112.) We can also text for help in the UK too, which may be useful if our phone signal cannot sustain the call for long enough to give information effectively. To use this service, we need to text the word REGISTER to 999 and then respond saying YES to the terms and conditions and then our phone is set up ready to go. We should do this at home before we go paddling rather than in the heat of the moment. When we text for help the emergency services will confirm that the message has been received, if we don’t get that confirmation we should try again. Remember that If we need mountain rescue we should ask for the police first and then mountain rescue. Mobile phones will also work across the various networks to make an emergency call, so just because your phone doesn’t appear to be connected to your regular provider there is a chance you can still pick up signal from one of the other networks. To get out of somewhere we need a way of knowing where we are first. I tend to find that many paddlers are not the best at carrying maps, often knowing the river from memory and guidebook descriptions rather than using accurate topographical information. This can make it hard to get help to a specific location especially when you are not near a road. There are so many options for digital solutions to map available currently, I subscribe to the Ordnance Survey software in the UK which allows you to download and print maps at 1:25000 or 1:50000 scale. I print and laminate my map and then annotate it with the various important rapids, hazards, features and access/egress points too. Most modern smart phones also have a GPS function and we can download maps to them.There is of course an issue with phones not being fool proof and that they can run out of battery but at least it could serve as a backup. You can also download software which you can use to give an accurate location, in the UK I use an app appropriately called…..”Grid Reference.” Having a way of recording information when we are dealing with an incident is also useful. Many people use pre-made casualty cards where they can write down the information you need accurately. When we are waiting for help to arrive we should be monitoring our casualty and if they are not fully alert we should be placing them in a safe airway position (recovery position) with their away open so we can continually check their breathing. Remember keep them breathing, stop bleeding and keep them warm.
A cracked helmet is a clear sign to be on the look out for head and neck injuries too
This strainer was found on a river regularly run by groups in the French Alps. Familiarity with an environment is one of McCammons key heuristic traps ThePADDLER 55
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The walking wounded If a casualty can move themselves and is relatively pain free in doing this, it is probably worth heading somewhere where they can get access to help a little bit easier. Our PFDs and spraydecks can make good improvised slings in this instance and we should go with an ethos of supporting the casualty where they feel comfortable. I also carry an XL plastic triangular bandage which I have made at home out of an old survival bag. This rolls up pretty small and gets packed into my first aid kit and is useful for giving support and immobilising casualties. If someone has a major injury or has suspected spinal damage, we should keep them immobilised where they are. In this instance, I would only move a casualty if there was an issue of danger or that their airway was compromised due to their body position. It is well worth keeping your first aid knowledge up to date and going on a dedicated first aid course is certainly the best way. There are all sorts of first aid course options out there, try and choose the one that best suits your needs as a paddler operating in a potentially remote environment. Thank you to Patrick Beavis, Michelle Marr and Molly Zeidler for the photographs and Ian McCammon for his excellent research.
Chris Brain
Chris has been kayaking, canoeing and coaching for the last 15 years and runs his own business Chris Brain Coaching, delivering paddlesport coaching, safety and rescue courses and REC First Aid Training. www.chrisbraincoaching.com Email: chris@chrisbraincoaching.com Chris would like to thank Pyranha Kayaks, Immersion Research, VE Paddles and Go Kayaking for making fantastic kit and their continued support. Photo: Patrick Beavis
GATINEAU RIVER, QUEBEC, CANADA
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Southern African Whitewater Highlights2 By Luke Longridge Photos by Luke Longridge and friends
This is the second of a four-part series of articles summarising the whitewater highlights of Southern Africa. Part one took a look at the provinces of KwaZulu Natal and the Eastern Cape, South Africa. In part two, we take a look at the so-called ‘Lowveld’ in the northern and eastern provinces of Limpopo and Mpumalanga, South Africa, as well as crossing the border to the little mountain kingdom of Swaziland. In January 2017, the annual Thrombi X Fest - Powered by RAW Adrenaline, will be taking place.The Thrombi X-Fest is South Africa’s premier whitewater festival, and for paddlers looking to experience some of the classics of Southern African whitewater in the area, it is an ideal opportunity to meet people and enjoy the social scene. A kayak tour to the rivers described here will be taking place after the festival and this is an ideal tour for paddlers looking for an amazing kayaking adventure.
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Along the eastern edge of southern Africa, a dramatic escarpment is formed between the ‘Highveld’ interior and the ‘Lowveld’, towards the eastern coast. A number of rivers are found along this escarpment, which also receives good summer rainfall, and this combination of topography and water makes this a great place for whitewater kayakers. In addition, the granitic geology of much of the area means there are a huge number of clean granite rivers. This is my personal selection of the ‘classics’ of the area, rather than a comprehensive list. For those interested, the book ‘Run the Rivers of Southern Africa’ by Celliers Kruger, gives more sections, and is currently being updated. The book is also available as an online guide: http://cellierskruger.com/africanveins/guide/. Like most kayaking in southern Africa, there are few 1-2 hour sections to be found and most paddles are full-day missions.The Lowveld and Swaziland are probably the most logistically easy places in Southern Africa, with easy put-ins and take-outs, a number of park-and-huck sections and a high concentration of rivers close to each other. The two classic rivers of the Lowveld are the Sabie River (in Mpumalanga Province, South
Africa) and the Blyde (or Mohlatsi) River (in Limpopo Province), both of which flow well all summer long. The Sabie has three sections, known and as U3 (upper), U2 (middle) and U1 (lower), with the U2 section being one of the most commonly paddled sections in the country. These sections consist of numerous class II-V pool-drop rapids and a number of fun waterfalls. Access to all three sections is easy, along a tar road between the towns of Hazyview and Sabie. Further to the north, the Blyde River flows through a spectacular canyon, one of South Africa’s tourist highlights. This is the third largest canyon on earth and the world’s largest vegetated canyon, making the river more difficult to access than the Sabie. One has to drive on a very bad road (4x4 SUV needed) into the heart of the canyon to the put-in. The take-out involves a ferry across a dam, at the takeout, which also needs to be arranged beforehand. However, the magnificence of the canyon makes the logistics well worth it – warm, clear blue water flowing through a massive, pristine canyon with lush vegetation. The Class II-IV rapids flow easily into one another and it is truly a must-do trip for any paddler visiting South Africa.
Warm, clear blue water flowing through a massive,
pristine canyon with lush vegetation
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Although the Sabie and Blyde Rivers are the most well-known rivers of the Lowveld, there are a number of other great sections in the area. The Nels River outside the town of Nelspruit is one of the rare logistically easy rivers in South Africa, and is a great 1-2 hour paddle down really fun Class II and III whitewater. The Olifants, close to the Blyde, has a number of awesome sections (including the option for multi-day trips) and provides more big-water paddling, again with spectacular scenery. Further to the north in Limpopo, the Mutale River cuts a beautiful gorge through the Soutpansberg mountains, with about 15km of fun class II-III whitewater for those who are prepared to venture a bit off the beaten track.
About 30 km from Nelspruit, the capital of Mpumalanga Province, near the confluence of the Elands and Crocodile rivers are a number of park-and-huck waterfalls that are easy and very fun. On the Crocodile River, Montrose Falls has a nice five-metre drop, a higher 11-metre drop with a tight line for those more brave, and a very scary 20-metre drop that has been run a few times at very high flows. About 3 km away on the Elands River, the socalled Dante’s Drop consists of a very fun 5metre double waterfall and a sweet 11-metre clean drop. Both Montrose and Dante’s are easily accessible from the N4 highway, and both can be run in a single day.
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Moving across the border from South Africa to Swaziland, numerous options open up to paddlers. Swaziland is a country with a rugged topography of granite mountains, with the largest river in the country being the Usutu River.The ancient granite bedrock makes for some of the most fantastic slides, and the Usutu has many sections to choose from, ranging from the commercially run lower section to the creeky Bhunya section high in the catchment, and a number of other sections in between. In addition, the Ngwempisi, Little Usutu and Lushushwana rivers all have some amazing sections when there has been recent rain. Further to the northeast, the Komati River is also commercially run and has some great class II-III whitewater.This section also has a water release (as part of a hydroelectric scheme) and so has consistent flows all year around. In addition to the great whitewater, Swaziland is also a fantastic tourist experience - it is an absolute monarchy with a rich cultural history, numerous game parks and very friendly, laid back people. Southern African whitewater is all about warm water, long days on the river and stunning scenery. Hopefully you’ll be inspired to visit soon.
https://goo.gl/maps/SjTA1JGFETk The 2016-2017 summer season has already begun an a good note with some solid rainfall – this rain is forecast to continue and it is promising to be a good season. The weak South African rand also makes this a pretty cheap place to visit. Thrombi X Fest - Powered by RAW Adrenaline is happening on the 22nd and 23rd of January 2017, and the kayak tour of the Lowveld and Swaziland will happen the week after the festival.
In part three, we’ll take a look at the whitewater in the interior of the South Africa – here, fewer rivers are found but there are a few great sections that are home to dozens of kayakers, and promise excellent big-water and playboating.
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SUP Mag UK’s awesome autumn issue is now alive, kicking and ready to order… http://standuppaddlemag.co.uk/subscribe/ The UK’s only home grown SUP magazine available both in print and digital. Featuring the crème de la crème of UK stand up stories from home or abroad by UK paddlers, it’s a must have read for anyone into the art of propelling themselves forward on a board with a paddle.
Downwind to
NORTH ROCK Bermuda bump running Words: Simon Winkley Pics: Simon Winkley, Chris Brown North Rock sits at the northern limit of a huge extinct volcano that ceased to be active around 33 million years ago and it caught my attention last year in the initial planning phase of my fourth trip to Bermuda.
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Behind the brand - Loco’s Joe Thwaites
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11 Cities Tour by Wilma Zwikker-Killgallon
It is marked by an iconic navigational beacon, which rises magnificently from the sea below. Today the volcano’s caldera is encircled by coral reef to the north and west with a 138 large and small islands to the South and East that make up Bermuda itself. The next landfall to the North is Nova Scotia – 1,000 miles away – or head west 560 miles to Cape Hatteras, North Carolina. It is marked by an iconic navigational beacon, which rises magnificently from the sea below. Today the volcano’s caldera is encircled by coral reef to the north and west with a 138 large and small islands to the south and east that make up Bermuda itself. The next landfall to the North is Nova Scotia – 1,000 miles away – or head west 560 miles to Cape Hatteras, North Carolina..
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Loco comparison Loco Amigo 9.5ft x 31” and Aztec 7.7ft x 28.5” Gear Shed
To subscribe to the digital copy with approx 60% savings over the print issue: https://joom.ag/vbvQ To buy a printed issue on top quality paper with varnished gloss perfect bound covers please visit: http://standuppaddlemag.co.uk/subscribe/ The printed paper copy costs £7.49 inc P&P for a single issue or £27.99 inc P&P for a subscription of four magazines. Please contact us: 01480 465081 Email: anne@supmaguk.co.uk
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Sickline, Wet West,Tryweryn Fest, these are all well-known kayaking festivals, however, has anyone heard of the Tana River Festival?
The Tana River is located in central Kenya and 2016 was the second year of the festival’s operation. Not many people will think of kayaking in Kenya, they’re more likely to have an image in their minds of ‘Lion King’ or going on safari, however, Kenya has some amazing creek boating to offer! With the short rains being from November to December and the long rains being from April to May it does offer some amazing water levels, beautiful scenery and warm water. It’s hard to believe this place is not yet a kayaking mecca with it also being so close to the River Nile in Uganda.
By Glenn Richards
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The Tana is used by many developing and established rafting companies, with the first being Savage Wilderness, a company that have now rafted in Kenya for 25 years. The Tana offers a pool drop style river, with some technical Grade 4 rapids, a super clean soft 35-foot waterfall called ‘The Mission’ and calm sections, which enable you to enjoy the wonderful countryside of rural central Kenya.
Tana River. Though only in its developing stages, the event has had paddlers from all around the planet, including the US, Italy, UK and Japan, who come to not only to compete but also have a fun time on the river. Local Kenyans also compete alongside Ugandans travelling across the border on a river that is lower in volume but more technical to what they are use to on the Nile.
Two Kenyans with support from Savage Wilderness, Fluid Kayaks and Infinity Outdoors, started the yearly festival on the
The event organisers, also provide a slalom course on three of the main Tana rapids, followed by a boater X. With the last event
‘The Mission’ a super clean soft 35-foot waterfall
being an endurance race of 8km with one of the last rapids being ‘The Mission’. This year, paddlers from a range mixed abilities competed, from an Italian competitor of the recent Rio Olympics, to some of the best freestyle kayakers around, to intermediate paddlers all enjoying the different challenges the rivers have to offer. With all these different abilities and skills – everyone was there to enjoy the river and the atmosphere. On the main rapids people were supporting and cheering kayakers as they caught gates or raced down
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the river in the boater X and helping paddlers back in to their boats when they took a swim.The kayaking community in Kenya is very small but the atmosphere is all about supporting each other with kayakers setting their own challenges on the river. Maybe when you plan your next kayaking holiday you may think of Kenya! The community here is small but very supportive and keen to get international paddlers to come and see the rivers. In other parts of Kenya there are still new rivers to be discovered! Of course when visiting
you can also plan your trip to see a safari. Special mention has to go to Mike Bell and Peter Tyrrell for being the event organisers, creating the festival and ensuring it still goes on to a consecutive third year for 2017. Special mention must go to Savage Wilderness for accommodation and transport to the river and Infinity Kayaks for the prizes to the winners.
The winners of the Tana River Festival 2016 were: Men 1. Giovanni De Gennaro (Italy) 2. Sam Ward (UK/Uganda) 3. Sadat Kawawa (Uganda) Womens 1. Amina Nakirya (Uganda) 2. Turm (Japan)
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I have decided to put out an article that pushes my boundaries and cuts deep to the subject matter and attention of the reader – you: the waterman, or at least, someone who knows one. I first wrote for the Paddler in its first year with coverage from the Pyranha Kayaks Euro Tour 2013 and was impressed with the stunning presentation and enthusiasm from publisher, Peter Tranter. Since then, I have been enjoying documenting our trips to Europe and Nepal in the hope to inspire people to step outside and explore the beautiful rivers of the world with old friends and new. By Matt Cooke
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I attempt now to tantalise your eastern taste buds with a short segment about Nepal and its current standings for us simple kayak folk, because let’s face it, the only reason you would go to Nepal is if you were a walker, kayaker, biker or hippy! So let me begin by sharing some of our fantastic adventures in Nepal. My goal for this article and the short film was to show how the country has risen from the ashes and is very much open for business following the devastation of the 2015 Easter earthquake5.
Fundamentally, Nepal can seem a chaotic place for the seasoned middle-class Costa drinker, so for those who love the creature comports of home, Nepal will be quite a shock for you once you get out of town and realise you can’t grab a Subway or get 4G. If you long for something different and exciting, or you are reading this as a seasoned kayaker or rafting enthusiast, you may wish to read on.
The white water paradise of Nepal has been explored by many seasoned kayakers from across the globe since the 70s. I have been lucky enough to meet and paddle with some of the greats during my kayaking career who have inspired me to keep returning again and again. My first trip to Nepal was in 2003 for the Peak UK challenge, ever since then, I have felt like Nepal was going to be a big part of my life, and I was right. Thirteen years later, I am running trips every year with clients and friends, to explore the many rivers and mountains of the Himalayas. Nepal is a place you can disconnect from the west and mould your own adventures and existence.
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I have attached a short film below, which shows our Easter trip in all its glory but no matter how much you try and document the level of devastation, you cannot appreciate the scale of the carnage. Nepal has experienced earthquakes before, but this time, the aftermath shook the whole world. Millions of people from across the globe came together to support the thousands of families who found themselves homeless without even villages to return to.With thanks to global support and the incredible resilience of the Nepali spirit, Nepal is once again, thriving and rebuilding bigger and better than before. So, I digress. White Water Adventures Nepal, a company I have been involved with for over 10
https://youtu.be/pwFJiEmKxrM
years, set a trip in motion that came from my first contact in the company, Georgia Bhandari. Myself and Georgia trained together during the 2003-2005 Freestyle World Championships and always talked about running a combined trip to Nepal. Georgia, now married to Ram Bhandari with a prospering family, took the bench whilst Ram and myself led the initial trips in 2011.
Five years on, Georgia sprang off the bench and was the brainchild behind the Easter paddling trip of a lifetime. After nearly six years off the river, Georgia was ready to jump back on the horse #kayak #raft #beachlife #hatehashtags #soaddictive #livingthedream
So, we had a trip and Georgia was fired up. I had never visited Nepal in March but Mr Ram Bhandari assured me the weather was glorious and it would be logistical wet dream. What the trip had in store for us was far from this idyllic description I had been given. I will come back to the day I witnessed 100ft sand-clones sucking the sand from a beach just 100 yards from us on the Trisuli. After arriving early into Kathmandu as I do, to kick back, work on trip preparations and have some reconnect time, the weather felt very different, dry and extremely dusty in town and the first time I have wandered the streets with a dust shield over my face. I always look forward
to time spent in Kathmandu and Pokhara, to relax, walk the streets, absorb the culture and spend time with other wayward characters in the local watering hole named Tom & Jerry’s, – a famous meeting point and rabbit hole in the Thamel district of Kathmandu where smoking is allowed and the owners keep your favourite cocktails from running dry. A place where old and new faces merge to forge a brand new adventure half the way across the world, a chance to feel like a tomb raider, press tough guy or secret agent. For me, running a trip with Georgia, accompanied by an international crew of misfits, gave me a purpose and place within the chaos.
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Georgia’s dream expedition was underway The meet and greet went quietly, as most of our guests was their first international adventure away from their home countries. Their eyes looked heavy and frazzled but Georgia was on form and her brilliant bubbly self. Along for his second expedition with WWAN was Geoff McCaul from Australia, a
seasoned guide making his way towards an international career and eager to get on the road. Geoff was a fantastic character, a solid asset for the Easter trip and when I say, “Solid,” I’m not talking about his gut but that’s another story entirely, I digress once more.
The group was literally split in half, not by age, well a little by age but the group dynamic was ‘family holiday’ mixed with ‘spring breakers.’ I could talk for pages about some of the clashes between characters but I will touch on enough. I enjoyed the challenge of making everyone comfortable and reassured but there are times in one’s life where one is tested by a divine force to overcome situations. Any issues the group had together were soon diluted once we hit the Trisuli River and for the first time, strait into our first hurricane. It honestly felt like a ‘classic’ disaster movie. It looked like a scene from Sharknado minus the CGI sharks but replaced with motor bikes, fisherman and rice pales. We were forced to seek shelter on a beach with huge trenches – the first time in ten years, I have needed to whip out the group shelter in anger. Whilst Geoff erected the shelter, myself and the boys attempted to secure the rafts on the beach as we were engulfed in what felt like a giant sand blasting machine. I had no idea Easter could get this wild but after eight tours to Nepal, I was none the wiser but apparently its quite common on the Trisuli that time of year.Thanks for telling me, right! Truly, I was in my element. I love new adventures and this trip was continually trying to test my patience and ability to solve on the spot dilemmas. Getting the group and rafts secure was the easy part, making sure we had enough alcohol for the jovial portion of the group turned out to be the hardest problem to solve!
We touched on group dynamics but I feel it will never be entirely described unless I publish a novel or write a screenplay on the subject. Basically, one half of the group were a family unit, gathering mid-point between Italy and Australia for an adventure reunion and the other half wanted to escape the grinds of high powered jobs to role play the plot to ‘The Hangover,’ every single day. It was a constant challenge to ensure the drinks cupboard was well stoked and that the noise was contained away from the family unit, who didn’t drink… at all. Both lovely groups but this was my first trip to manage this unique split of expectations and experiences, but hey, I love it. We cruised around Nepal for two weeks and covered all but one of Georgia’s wish list of rivers from the, “Easter paddling trip of a lifetime.” River levels were low so the Balephi Khola was out for rafts. The Balephi confluences with the Bhote Kosi, which combines to form the Sun Kosi. We paddled the upper and lower Bhote, which was the first time in two years I had been back to the area to find the contrast was unrecognisable and devastating. There had been a large landslide in 2014 before the 2015 earthquake and I had missed them both between my visits. What I was looking at as we drove up from KTM to the Bhote Kosi left me speechless all the way until we reached Barabesi, the last town on the silk road to China, which leads you swiftly to the start of the mighty upper Bhote Kosi. We covered over 300 kilometres in our two weeks of touring around Nepal which provided ample opportunities for our guests to have their fill of white water, whisky and Khukri rum.
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improved Nepal
The crew saw first hand how Nepal has been affected but most of all, got to see how the country had bounced back, building a new and
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From arriving in Nepal to the morning of departure, the adventure never stopped. The crew saw first hand how Nepal has been affected but most of all, got to see how the country had bounced back, building a new and improved Nepal, working harder than you may have ever seen. Our egress point on the lower Seti was blocked due to works on a main highway. This set our schedule back half a day but did mean that we had some time to kill on a perfect sandy beach the morning after our legendary pig roast party, not a break in schedule that anyone, well almost anyone complained about. Despite our lazy morning on the beach, picking on leftover BBQ delights, we soon found ourselves waiting for a solo construction worker aboard his T-Rex sized digger, whilst he cleared a new road for traffic to resume. I took the opportunity to leave our bus and get a closer shot for the film. The digger was even bigger up close. I am a welder by trade and learnt to operate fork lift trucks from the age of 13 but this was a whole new experience for me.This guy looked like he had absorbed the skill and motivation of every single UK heavy goods driver and I was witnessing a new road being formed in the very few minutes I stood there watching – phenomenal! During this trip, I had expected to see more of the country is disrepair. I knew it was there but in the main areas we visited and spent our time, you could hardly notice the difference. What you could see were the people of Nepal working in unison to rebuild and continue as normal as possible. The country took a colossal sucker punch but is still a place filled with majestic delights, from the tips of the Himalayas to the dark thriving river beds of the Sun Kosi, as it flows into the Indian Ocean.
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ThePADDLER 84 I could describe all the highlights and special evenings by the fire, or in front of a same day pig BBQ with stunning sunsets, mixed with nights re-enforcing our tarp village to withstand the hurricane winds with warm sideways rain. However, for me, this trip was filled with the usual antics, blended with new experiences and aggressive storms, which I had not yet been exposed to. Above all, no matter what was going on with the weather, the temperature never really dropped below 20 degrees in the evening, which made sleeping outdoors delightful, not having to rely on the fire to provide warmth in the cold of a typical October night. I can cope with the wrath of the elements, if it means great weather in between. At times I thought I would be struck by lightning, whilst paddling the upper Seti just outside of Pokhara. We started the run with blistering sunshine and then, as if summoned by Moses, a black cloud loomed slowly from the direction of Machapuchare and headed straight toward us in the direction of Pokhara. The storm passed us mid-run, pelting us with giant hail stones and winds blowing us in directions I had not thought possible.
By the time we had reached the take out, the storm had passed leaving the remnants of its wrath, where the ground looked like a fresh blanket of snow, as cold as a sea of crushed ice in white Russian cocktails. Walking through the slush felt like razor blades it was that cold, another part of the trip that we will all be talking about for a long time and just one of the adventures our crew endeavoured.
For me, this trip was filled with the usual antics, blended with new experiences and
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https://goo.gl/maps/g9jpTyVfySH2
I will end our little journey here and leave the rest to your imaginations and motivations to jump on a plane and book yourself onto a river expedition. We do offer bespoke trips for aspirant rafting guides and kayaking enthusiasts but in all honestly, dozens of reputable and amazing guys run trips out of Thamel and during the chosen time of year, you can rock up to Thamel (Kathmandu) and just hang out, chat to them and see what is going out. There are infinite adventures to be had for whatever your fancy, so plan your next spontaneous mission to the Himalayas where a life changing experience awaits you. Be safe with all of your adventures in white water and we hope to see you soon on a multiriver-day adventure in Nepal. Peace. Cookie x
http://www.whitewaternepal.com catmooke@hotmail.com ram@whitewaternepal.com Matt Cooke 07833 462182
P A R V A T I R I V E R H I M A C H A L P R A D E S H
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INDIA I spent quite a few f w seasons safety fe saf afe af fet ety ty kayaking kay ka aya yaking in Nepal r I learnt to guide. On our days re day a s off, ay offffff,f, – it is also where a Tea T aTime, Te we would chill out at Time, drinking chai and wat a ch the world drift at f bye. ft bye y . It was here ye r that re a I heard at r rd watch a resembled at r sembled Pokhara re P khara Po r but ra of one place in India that diffffffe fere r nt level. It lays lay a s on the road ay r ad to the ro theTsara r p ra on a different Tsarap s art st r of one of the Himalayas rt Himalay aya ay yas best s st Chu and the start selff support fr kayaking rt kay ka aya yaking expeditions. expeditions.The self-support The name of this place was of course Manali. Stev eve ev ve Brooks Bro r oks ro k ks By Steve
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Steve Brooks on his home river the Rosanna, Austria
The first time I visited Manali was in 2008 I appeared with a kayak, which seemed to draw a lot of attention to myself as there are not many kayakers that visit Himachal Pradesh. Now that you can fly up to Ladakh, most kayakers prefer to base themselves out of Leh rather than suffer the brutal bus journey up and over the Rohtang and Baralacha La Passes. Since 2008 I have been coming back to Manali year after year and slowly kayaking and exploring rivers in Himachal Pradesh. One that had been in my sight for a long time was the Parvati River. It has been run a fair few times, I know of four descents or sections paddled and we had checked it out a few years ago on Royal Enfield Bullets. But as with everything in Himachal, it is difficult to judge just how much water you need in the river!
Traditional houses in the Parvati Valley in Himachal Pradesh, India
Ute and I had just finished kayaking with Harry over in Uttarakhand and had road tripped back to Manali via the Yamuna and Tons Rivers, it was the last week of October and I decided to put in at Jari and kayak solo. We got an early start (7am is early for Manali), Pinku our taxi driver was ready to go. Ute would be coming along to get some shots from high up on the sketchy road as it weaves its way in and out hugging the cliffs way above the river. She would also try and get to the bank as much as possible depending on how fast I was running the river.
The stunning mountain scenery of the Pir Pinjal mountain range at the end of the Parvati Valley, Himachal Pradesh
We found a great place to put-in and reluctantly the police checkpoint let us through as we confirmed we were not on our way up to Malana but instead taking a right after the bridge. The usual crowds started to gather up on the bridge as I put-in. I was straight into a rapid under the bridge and as I tucked in and punched the first hole it was good to be back on the river again. The rapids were now flowing nicely one into the other. It was great read and run class IV (IV+). A couple of rapids made me get out of my kayak to take a look and all the way to Sarsardi Bridge I only portaged once. The current was always pushing me along and with the background views of snowcapped mountains and crystal clear blue skies, I could have thought I was on the Marsyangdi River in Nepal in 1998!
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The character of the
The Parvati River in Himachal Pradesh
Ute met me at the bridge and since I was doing well for time, I made the decision to enter the gorge. The character of the river started to change and as the walls closed in the river started to steepen. The rapids were getting more serious and I was now having to negotiate some hard whitewater. As I came to a bend in the river and what looked like a box canyon I stopped and took a look to see a 600m rapid consisting of two river wide monster holes. I managed to portage over the rocks on river right and continued making some progress running quite a few class V chicken lines! As the gorge started to open out again, I could see another bridge where Ute was again waiting for me. It had taken me three hours to run the main gorge.
I was offered the chance to take-out at Chhamarhan but with just a few more kilometres to go until I reached the confluence of the Beas I pushed on. I entered the second gorge and as I went to scout on the left I just hoped it would not be as full-on as the previous one. The entrance looked tricky and you could not see if there was a tongue through the two holes on what was the only line on far right next to the wall. By now I had a feel for the river and decided that the line would go. It certainly did and what came next was some great class IV read and run and the exit of the second gorge.
river started to change and as the walls closed in the river started to steepen
Steve working his way through another rapid on the Parvati River
Steve talking with Pinku at the put-in of Jari for the Parvati River
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The river had now lost its gradient and was a mellow paddle for the last kilometre or two all the way to the confluence. I was elated and extremely tired.The Lower Parvati had taken it out of me but I left with some great memories of a river of whitewater, stunning backdrops, ancient villages and a culture and lifestyle that has not really changed that much over the years. I will certainly be heading back to the Parvati to kayak again, hopefully as soon as this year. Now you can see by what I mean progress is slow in kayaking and exploring the rivers of Himachal, as you keep wanting to head back to rivers such as the Parvati, Chandra and of course the Beas Gorge!
Steve Brooks
Steve is now running a successful kayak school in Austria. It is the perfect training ground and the ideal step into running bigger volume rivers in the Himalayas. When the rivers start to drop along with the temperature in Austria, you can find Steve leading, kayaking and exploring India’s northern rivers, he has also spent many seasons working, guiding and exploring the rivers of Peru and Chile.
For more photos, info and reports check out: www.gokayaking.at
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098 United States
Delmarva paddler’s retreat by Scott Edwards
108 Greenland
In search of Gino Watkins by Martin Rickard
118 United States
Paddlequest 1500 part 2 by John Connelly
128 United Kingdom
River Itchen winter kayak fishing by Simon Everett
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W H E N B E C O M E S
T R A D I T I O N A L A T R A D I T I O N T H E 2 0 1 6
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The weather for early October was looking acceptable in the beginning and despite Hurricane Matthew due to start reaching the Delmarva Peninsula towards the end of the weekend, it did not deter the 90+ participants in one of the oldest Traditional Qajaq gatherings in the United States from carrying on. Camp Arrowhead is a uniquely suited place for sharpening ones traditional skills, as the bay is only about four feet deep quite a distance out, allowing mentors to be in water, in real conditions to work on braces, rolls, basic and advanced strokes. It also kept the early autumn water from being dangerously cold.
R E T R E A T By Scott Edwards
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The Delmarva Retreat traces its roots back as far as 1988 and has been an annual event
since 2001
Guests from all over the world arrived in Lewes, Delaware on or before October 6th for a mentor-bonding paddle, led by JJohn Pedersen from Ilulissat, Greenland and his first demonstration of the traditional hunting stroke, harpoon and the taalutaq, the blind used by traditional hunters. Other guests of note were Dubside and Kiliii Yuyan presenting his latest project for National Geographic.There was a paddle making class and, believe it or not, a kayak building contest. Also, attendees were privileged to have the core of the Delmarva Paddlers Retreat staff as highly skilled and encouraging coaches and mentors. Many paddlers were able to get their first roll under their belt as well as work on those techniques that they felt needed work. The Delmarva Paddlers Retreat is a part of Qajaq USA and Qaannat Kattuffiat (the Greenland Kayaking Association), organizations dedicated to keeping traditional kayaking skills alive. These include rolling, paddling skills, Qajaq building, tuilik (the traditional Greenland garb for kayaking) as well as the culture that surrounds it. The Delmarva Retreat traces it’s roots back as far as 1988 and has been an annual event since 2001, 2016 being the official 28th gathering.
With all that tradition behind it, one might think that the Delmarva Paddlers Retreat is limited to those with skin-on-frame, traditional kayaks with expert paddlers in them. Nothing can be further from the truth. This gathering is open to paddlers of all skill levels and all kayak types. Paddlers with an interest in Traditional Paddling are greeted with open arms and knowledge shared so freely as to instantly sow the seeds of camaraderie the moment you arrive. And, when you arrive on Friday, you will find the retreat in full swing.There are on water, in pool and on land and indoor workshops/clinics going on everywhere.You quickly find your cabin or tent site, don your paddling gear and head for the water, which is an easy walk from the campsites. Now, don’t expect five-star hotel type accommodations. Camp Arrowhead is just that, a camp. But, not that you’ll be spending much time at your chosen site.There is so much going on that you will want to be a part of, that where you stay is merely a place to sleep, change and attempt to dry out your wet gear. And, take my advice, if you have extra gear, bring it.You will need it, without question. I will say that you will spend so much time on the water that you will most certainly need a wetsuit or drysuit, especially considering how quick the weather can change on the Delmarva Peninsula. Over pack. Just do it. Plan from being very warm to very cold and everything in between. And, remember towels. You’re going to be wet, often, if not continuously. One of my most vibrant recollections of this years retreat was attending John Pedersen’s presentations, first on how sustainable hunting still exists in his native Greenland and how hard it is to succeed and feed one’s family. And, how the impact of climate change has changed, for the worse, their success rate and heightened the difficulty as the pack ice consistently retreats.This soft-spoken man told us of things that people living in temperate
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zones couldn’t fathom. How much further they must travel and how what they need is harder and harder to come by, because of the consistent melting of the polar ice that once gave them access to the resources they need (read climate change). And, also how they were so grateful and respectful of the gift given to them by the cold waters. John made it quite clear how what he needs is further and further away, therefore, harder to harvest than anytime in his memory. Hearing about how climate change is impacting someone personally was really impactful. As always, Dubsides presence, expertise and energy were prevalent throughout the event. Watching someone perform rolls and go the ropes section of the Greenland Qajaq Olympics so naturally and so effortlessly was absolutely astounding. I have seen him do these things on YouTube and other videos, but to witness it in person was a completely different experience. Dubside is most certainly doing what he was born to do, and he was a very generous mentor, helping and teaching anyone and everyone who came in contact with him. He has been a part of many of the Delmarva Paddlers Retreats and I hope he continues to.
Presentation
One evening, after dinner, Kiliii Yuyan, an indigenous photographer who documents Native cultures and the need for wilderness conservation, treated us to a presentation about the Inupiat on the North Slope of Alaska, where subsistence hunting is still the way of life. He had spent an Autumn living in the Arctic amongst the people there and experiencing their lifestyle, how important hunting on the ocean is to them and the fact that they are now dealing with ever increasing threats from Polar Bears as the pack ice melts, bringing the bears territories ever closer to human populations. Through my interactions with John Pedersen and Kiliii Yuyan the severity of what is happening to our planet became more than just the science I understand. The impact on people who live in these initially, severely impacted areas is quickly having their very existence, their day-to-day life threatened. His photography and videography was beautiful, poignant and very powerful. He is also a skilled traditional kayak-builder. You can find out more about Kiliiis work at https://www.kiliii.com/.
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ThePADDLER 104 Dave’Unkle Dave’ Sides
Saturday night’s post dinner revelry was the annual auction of hand-made and donated items, with the proceeds going to Qajaq USA. Everything from changing robes to miniature Qajaqs to two full-sized, fully refurbished kayaks were auctioned off by Dave’Unkle Dave’ Sides, who is the master of ceremonies for not only the auction, but, the announcements of all that was going on each and every day all over the camp, on land and in the water, in both the bay and the pools.
For more information you can visit the following websites: http://delmarvapaddlersretreat.org/ http://www.qajaqusa.org/ https://www.facebook.com/DelmarvaPaddlersRetreat/
I was amazed at how well organized the event was and how busy each and every day was, with several programs going on all at once. You had a chance to do everything from attending rolling mentoring, advanced paddle strokes, stealth strokes, learning about rescues and towing to how to make your own Traditional paddles, as well as the launching and maiden voyage of an Umiak, a replica of a traditional hunting vessel.
https://goo.gl/maps/Vrce4wmgvL52
I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention all the new friends I made, some I’ve know ‘virtually’ for a while, others whose path I’ve crossed on my journeys through the world of paddling and others I met for the very first time. The sense of camaraderie, the open sharing and act of paying it forward was very much a part of the Delmarva experience. For that I have to thank the crew of the Delmarva Paddlers Retreat, Mike Hamilton, Chris Beckman, Sue Byerly, Laura Ventura and Robin Snow. And just in case you’re wondering how such an all inclusive event can be so well mentored and coached. The answer is list of mentors is staggering, it was: Terry O'Malley, Ed Lamon, Lisa Kellogg, Ben Fuller, Adam Keiper, Will Bigalow, John Doornink, Milton Puryear, Melanie Lorek, Jack Gilman, Dave Murphy, Madi Murphy, Peter Gengler, Robin Morgan, Phil Ellis, Renee DuFresne, Don Beale, Joanne Barta, Kevin Kehoe, James Hartford, Lee Murray, Jeff Putterman and Bill Voss. So, if you wanted to learn, there were plenty of people to teach you and share their experience. All of this went to making Delmarva 2016 quite an experience and one that anyone interested in traditional paddling, owes it to themselves to attend. I know I am going back this coming year, and I hope to see some friends I made there and looking forward to making even more.
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U N F I N I S H E D in
GRE GE REN EENA NLAN
Every summer I am lucky enough to give up the day job and spend a month or so in East Greenland. I have been exploring the area since 2000 and for the past eight years have been guiding annual trips based out of Tasiilaq, Angmassalik. Like me, many of my clients get the bug and over the years return to further explore. By Martin Rickard
B U S I N E S S
AND
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This summer a small team, of what I now consider to be very good friends, embarked on a rather special trip, heading north, off my regular stomping ground, to try and reach Lake Fjord (Tugtilik) where Gino Watkins died in 1932.Two of the team, James and Donna had been part of a team who attempted this with me in 2014, however on that occasion we had been unsuccessful. This year Geoff and John joined us, making a strong tight team of five.
Base site
We were keen to save time in order to make the most of a favourable weather window so the trip started with a fast boat drop off at the settlement of Sermiligaq, the most easterly of Tasiilaq’s five small satellite communities. Subsistence hunting and fishing is the major focus of life in Sermiligaq – although now mainly done using motor boats, they are very proud of their kayaking culture. We are always made very welcome there and have often been told, with a flexing of their biceps, that we were not tourists – but kayakers. This is obviously as high up the visitor’s ladder as it’s possible to be. We had checked out much of our route in 2014 and so headed for the few known camping sites, while all the time taking note of any possible landings or emergency get outs, should conditions change and force us to retreat in poor conditions.
The coast is all very spectacular, with high cliffs, carving glaciers, precipitous islands and the constant back drop of alpine style mountains and the Greenland icecap. Even for the Angmassalik region this area is very remote. Few, if any kayakers venture to Sermiligaq, let alone past it, and even the local hunters are seldom seen heading north along our intended route. We definitely felt out on the edge.
On trip you soon settle into the simple routine
Boat drop off
Breaky, toilet, dry suit on, de camp, wait for someone who’s faffing (make sure it’s not you again), load and then carry boats as a four, paddle, paddle, paddle with a bit of chat and a few photos. Lunch, paddle, paddle, paddle, land, have a pee, carry boats, set up camp, cook, chat, read, explore, set bear fence, sleep. Repeat. It’s great! Polar bears or Ice Bears as the locals refer to them are a potential hazard in this area, “You can never say there won’t be a bear,” is how one hunter several years ago described the risk to me. At the end of the summer they are referred to as ‘Ghost Bears.’ They are there but you probably won’t see one – then all of a sudden you might!
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James looking back to Ailsa from the top of Stor Island. Photo: Martin Rickard
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James finally caught our supper. Photo: Geoff Murray
Our interest in the area and in particular this trip was as a result of discovering the story of Gino Watkins – who explored and mapped the area in 1930/32 as part of his research for Pan Am Airways and the British Arctic Air Route Expedition. Watkins learnt his kayaking and hunting skills from the locals, so as to provide food for the members of his expeditions. As a result he was taken in and adopted by the hunters, who acknowledged his talent and skill, which was often superior to that of some Inuit kayakers.
We had brought along several period books and round the fire each night read about the adventures and escapades experienced by Watkins and his team on the following day’s section of our route.
Settled weather
The weather remained settled and although completely devoid of ice the seas stayed calm. Brash and pack ice is pretty crucial on an exposed coast like this as it keeps the swell down and can give you a landing for lunch or an opportunity to sort stuff out in an emergency. As a result we knew that there would be no landings on the two days just before reaching Tugtiliq and both days would be at least eight hours of paddling. Given the potential for unpredictable weather, down drafts from the huge cliffs and the chance of winds and tides funnelling out of the fjords and round the headlands, these two days going in and then returning would be the crux of the trip.
Paddling past Ailsa Island into Lake Fjord was an emotional moment (that took over an hour). We first visited the headland overlooking the north branch of the fjord to locate Gino’s memorial cross and take some photos. Then before we got too cold we headed on into the left hand branch of the fjord to find the site and remains of the base camp. We quickly set up camp and settled in for the night with a warming fire.
Up at the lake, John and Donna discovered the site where the Sea Moth had landed and been refuelled
in 1931 The next day was spent exploring. High up on the beach in the winter storm boulders we found the remains of ‘the Whaler,’ one of Watkin’s boats abandoned in 1932. We excavated this and moved it to a dry and safer place on higher ground. Up at the lake, John and Donna discovered the site where the Sea Moth had landed and been refuelled in 1931. There were many old empty fuel drums on the lake shore marking the deep water spot where the plane could taxi in. After referring back to our book and having had another good nose about, James found the rock behind the hut site where Watkins details had been carved soon after his death. .
Camping at the slabs near Sermiligaq. Photo: Geoff Murray
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ThePADDLER 114 Confident we could wash it out and only as a temporary measure, we highlighted the carved text with coal dust from the hut, so as to capture it in a photo. We were sure Gino would not have minded
Given the forecast and conditions at sea we didn’t want to linger and so headed out late that afternoon on the high tide. Keen to get past ‘Hell Corner’ and back into safer areas for the remainder of our trip. The return paddle went well with a slight tail wind pushing us along. We landed at midnight; it was still light but now very cold, and hastily made camp and turned in.
Days of thick fog made navigation interesting. Photo: Geoff Murray
Heading to Depot island. Photo: Geoff Murray
James and Donna heading north. Photo: Martin Rickard
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John paddling to the rhythm of the tunes on his iPod
Thanks to Donna McCready (USA) James Pigdon (Wales) Geoff Murray (Tasmania) and John Paschke (Scotland) for making the summer such a memorable one. The next day would be a rest day, to do some washing, eat and rest up a bit. We had done well and still had over a week left to explore and wind our way back before finally packing up my store for the winter.
There were far too many highlights to mention them all here – it is such a fantastic place I am still impressed after many years of exploring the area. To retrace a route done during the early 30s, when folk only had skin kayaks and none of the modern day clothing and safety equipment we take for granted these days was pretty humbling. Paddling in using their books for reference and copies of the original maps made it even more special.
Rubbish left from 1932
Humbled
Anyone interested in more information can contact Martin Rickard info@seakayakadventures.co.uk
Crossing mouth of Nigertusok Fjord on the way to Hells Corner. Photo: Geoff Murray
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P A R T
T W O
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PADDE PD DLQ LEQUS UET EST 1 5 0 0
We take up the second part of John Connelly’s epic expedition at the end of his completion of the Northern Forest Canoe Trail (NFCT). John had switched from his canoe to his 18-foot Stellar S18R expedition kayak upstream on the Saint John in Grand Falls, New Brunswick and now he faced the Bay of Fundy. Over to John for the rest of the story… BAY OF FUNDY, New Brunswick, CAN to Lubec, ME 90 miles
MAINE ISLAND TRAIL Lubec, ME to Kittery, ME 375 miles
The Bay of Fundy is famous for having the planet’s most extreme tides, topping 53 feet. Every six hours, the Bay empties (not all of it of course) and then refills. This results in notorious, even dangerous tidal currents. I’d be there on a 29-foot tide. Although I’d heard horror stories about dangerous seas and paddlers getting stranded far offshore with miles of mud between them and dry land, I couldn’t wait!
Shifting gears
Transitioning from river and lake travel, primarily by canoe, to ocean travel by kayak was exciting. I had some time in my Stellar S18R expedition kayak on the Saint John. I had run several whitewater rapids and pushed through stiff winds and whitecaps. So far, we were getting along extremely well! The ocean is a vast watery wilderness that is spectacularly beautiful and unpredictably dangerous and potentially fatal. The proper gear and knowing how to use it is essential. There is a whole other level of risk management to undertake on the ocean. It is not at all forgiving! On my NRS Zen pfd, I had my Delorme inReach nav/com transceiver, a VHF radio for weather advisories and maritime vessel communications, my iPhone 6S, whistle, knife, signal mirror, high-energy snack and other essentials. I need to be fully equipped to survive and be rescued in the event I ever parted company with my kayak on the sea. As I had on the entire trip, I wore a dry suit. You have to dress for the water temperature and not the air. This makes warm weather paddling in frigid waters an exercise in hydration management because sweating profusely is unavoidable. Dressing for the warm air and not the frigid water could be lethal. Unfortunately, it would be for two kayakers several days further into my trip.
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I would be joined by friend and fellow Mainer, Dan Carr, on part of the Saint John River, the Bay of Fundy and
Maine’s Bold Coast
Westward heading
Leaving the city of Saint John, New Brunswick, a hard right turn is made directly to the west. My headings would read between 270 and 240 degrees for the next two weeks. When they call that giant piece of the Maine coast, ‘Downeast’ they’re not kidding. The coast really does run east and west, not north and south like you might think. I was aware of the fact that the winds for the time of year would be headwinds. When hearing about my expedition plans, people suggested that I shuttle from Saint John to Kittery, Maine so I could take advantage of tailwinds. But this was to be a continuous route, as nature had built it. I would be up against big winds and huge seas, neither of them favourable. But I’d just have to deal with it. I would be joined by friend and fellow Mainer, Dan Carr, on part of the Saint John River, the Bay of Fundy and Maine’s Bold Coast. Having experienced company is most welcomed when paddling extremely committing and exposed frigid open ocean waters. Dan had paddled the Bold Coast before so had knowledge. The Bay of Fundy was a first for us both. As it would turn out, conditions were so dangerous a couple of days that we each confessed that if alone, neither of us would have taken the risk. But together, we were willing to push the risk tolerance threshold a few more notches and venture out. Serious stuff, but it felt good.
New Brunswickers Adam Tremblay and Rob Neish joined in for the Saint John River's Reversing Falls
When I get stiff and start paddling with choppy strokes and my paddle control hand is screaming at me because of the death grip, I make myself STOP IT! That happened to me several times in extremely difficult conditions. I had to calm myself, relax, put my head into a good place and get into the flow of both water and weather; become one with it and not resist it. If not, I’d easily make mistakes, become fatigued, and get myself into serious trouble. Becoming a Zen master in those conditions is not easy, but is a requirement! The Bay of Fundy was rich with life. The puffins, razorbills, tons of other seabirds and bald eagles were everywhere. It was seal pupping season, so ocean ledges had turned into nurseries. Making sure I was seen before getting too close was important to avoid panicking them into the water and possibly hurting the young. Some ledges had hundreds of Harbour Seals. Later in the trip off Maine’s Downeast coast, I would be stalked by two 600-pound Gray Seals. They are potentially aggressive, so that was unnerving! We covered over 25 miles the first day on the Bay to arrive at New River Beach Provincial Park and Campground. The next day’s storm whipped up six-foot waves and fog so thick you could cut it with a knife. It was the Universe telling us that we needed a day to do laundry! The next day, we awoke to calm seas but it seemed that the fog was even more dense. We launched into the abyss with only electronic navigation to find our way. Aquaculture salmon pens anchored offshore create acres of deadly strainers with fast current flushing through the netting. We couldn’t see them until we could almost touch them! I could hear the waves breaking on cliff bases and sometimes I could hear the low thrumming of commercial fishing boat diesel engines approaching and then, gratefully, fading away. There’s no way for them to see us on radar. When crossing shipping channels in fog, I used the VHF radio to announce our presence and ask for any vessels in the area to identify their position. Every time…silence. Fishermen in Maine say that one kayak is a speed bump and more than one is a rumble strip! I don’t laugh.
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The fog lifted and we were gifted with easy paddling the rest of the way almost to Lubec, Maine where the fog returned us to zero-zero visibility. We landed and went through customs in dry suits and pfds with passports in hand. Homeland Security heard our radio announcement so was expecting us. The forecast was for thunderstorms and high seas, so we’d wait it out at Cohill’s Restaurant and Pub, which also has great rooms. We’d pick up the Maine Island Trail when conditions settled down. Lubec Brewing Company was a short walk away. We’d make do. The Bold Coast of Maine is Maine’s version of the Bay of Fundy’s dramatic high vertical cliffs rising from deep ocean that explodes with unimaginable power at their base. There are very few places to go ashore if weather deteriorates or if you have a problem. You can’t afford to have a problem. It’s very committing but incredibly beautiful. We had very rough seas, with eightfoot ocean swells out of the south toward the cliffs, northwest winds around 20 knots trying to blow us out to sea and forcing us to stay closer to the cliffs where we enjoyed the reflecting waves rolling back at us. Pure chaos. “Best vacation ever,” I told myself, again. And in many ways, it actually was!
Never assume the worst is behind you
Having to go back to the ‘real world,’ Dan and I parted company in Machias. Saying, “Goodbye” to him was like saying, “hello” to being alone for the rest of the expedition. I was confident about going it alone once I made it past the Bold Coast. I don’t know what made me think that the worst was behind me. I paddled in strong winds to rugged and wild Halifax Island to camp. I awoke with not a breath of wind and fog again so dense everything was soaked – good for the complexion though! Zero visibility using electronic navigation, it felt like vertigo. The fog lifted after noon, the day was calm and bright. Everything was wonderful until it wasn’t. The towering cumulonimbus clouds of an approaching cold front signalled all hell was going to break loose. I looked at radar to see the track of the meat of this thing and it was going to hit me if I stayed at Flint Island, where I had stopped. I saw that the MITA island, Bois Bubert was a couple miles ahead and would likely get missed by the electricity. So I cranked up the tempo and arrived just as dime-sized water
droplets peppered me, and the cove where I landed. Hunkered in the pines, it was spectacular, like a prolonged fourth of July fireworks finale accompanied by a blinding downpour. It was too early to make camp and the storm had passed. But remaining were 20+ knot winds that had again whipped up the sea. The next several hours were a battle in treacherous waters. Crossings across the mouths of bays and dodging breaking waves and rock through the Petite Manan Bar made me eager for the day to be over. I called Nicole and asked her to find me a roof for the night. I was exhausted and everything I owned was soaked from fog and rain. No lodging or camping in Corea Harbor was open, but she found a B&B in Prospect Harbor. Just 3.5 miles further in a cold headwind and fading sunlight. “Best vacation ever.” The owner of Acadia’s Oceanside Meadows Inn was another Trail Angel. He waited for my aftersunset arrival, showed me to my room, got my dinner, fed me as much breakfast as I needed and he wouldn’t take a nickel! The next day rounding notorious Schoodic Point was intense. The northwest wind was 20 knots with big ocean swells. Rounding the point, I noticed tourists on the rocks pointing at me like they were someplace between disbelief and wanting to call the Coast Guard. Crossing Frenchman Bay to Bar Harbor was no picnic either with large vessel wakes getting thrown into the mix! One should definitely wait for calmer conditions for this stretch!
The towering cumulonimbus clouds of an approaching cold front signalled all hell was going to break loose
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For more information on our complete line, please email Debbie (deb@s
Go Further Faster! Speed or Stability? HOW ABOUT BOTH!
Russell Henry’s 2014 S18R 750 mile Vancouver Island Circumnavigation Record
Stellar Kayaks and SurfSkis offer an amazing combination of speed and stability, taking you further, faster!. Boats like our S18R have become the “go-to” boat for endurance paddling, like Russell Henry’s incredible solo Circumnavigation Record of Vancouver Island, cranking out 45+ miles per day, completing 750 miles in 12 DAYS, 23 HOURS, 45 MINUTES, in a Stellar S18R, beating the previous human powered record by 2.5 Days!
It is no small feat to circumnavigate Vancouver Island in the best of conditions. Dealing with the full force of the Pacific Ocean on the outer side with strong winds and huge swells, to the massive tidal forces on the inside passage. Russell Henry sought to beat the existing speed record and searched out a boat to do it in. Settling on the S18R, Russell found the hull fast and comfortable and the full footboard very powerful.
John Connelly’s 2016 Paddlequest 1500
the S18R is also the boat of choice for endurance paddler Joe Zellner from Minnesota who holds many course records with the S18R in races like the MR340, the Dakota Challenge, 2 Dam Days, Washington Island Race etc. The combination of flat water speed and stability in chop make it the boat for distance paddling. The S18R was the choice of John Connelly’s 1500 mile PADDLE QUEST down the rugged coast of Maine. It is an ideal boat for handling strong currents, beam chop and headwinds, while still making good time down the coast.
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n of Performance.
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I thought I was catching a break, but the forecast for the following day turned out to be wrong with strong winds for my paddle down Mount Desert Island and Acadia National Park to Bass Harbor. Again, committed and exposed for most of it. The next stretches saw good conditions through Stonington, where stopping at Captain Bill’s Old Quarry Ocean Adventures is a must. The campground is great, but if you’re passing through and hungry, I’ll vouch for the cheeseburgers. I had a couple of them! From there, on to Hurricane Island and then on to Black Island, Muscongus Bay and on to Boothbay Harbor and Baileys Island in Casco Bay. Over all of this, I saw friendly seas and winds 5-15 mph so I was cranking out 30+ mile days. The horrendous winds resumed for the next several days. I arrived in Portland Harbor and was welcomed with a cannon shot from the tall ship Privateer Lynx! Thanks to the generosity of Shipyard Brewing Company, which owns The Inn on Peaks Island, I had a place to stay for three nights waiting for a weather window so I could continue. The Inn looks westward across to Portland and they have great food and beer with deluxe rooms. It’s a short walk up the hill from the ferry beach and they’ll find a place for your kayak overnight. So far, I had put only minor scratches on my S18R kayak, but that was about to change. I had a window from 7:00am to 1:00pm to paddle from Peaks Island to Kennebunkport. After that, another cold front was due to blow through with thunderstorms, rain and high winds. I
figured that in the favourable morning conditions, I’d have no trouble banging out the 30 miles before things got raucous. As I slid my boat into the water off the beach seal-entry style, I heard a grinding sound as the boat stopped. “That’ll leave a mark,” I thought. But no more, right? Pushing up with my knees under the deck and down with my hands on the beach next to my hips, I lifted the boat up enough to slide into the water and started paddling away. Uh oh, an unusual list to the left, so I downweighted my right butt cheek to level off. That’s when I felt coolness on the backs of my calves and thighs. I ripped off my spraydeck! I was already one-third full of seawater.
I felt coolness on the backs of my calves and thighs. I ripped off my spraydeck! I was already one-third full
of seawater
Nicole's Kittery, ME Welcome
I stroked back to the beach and spent the next six hours performing a fiberglass repair that I covered with Gorilla Tape, just for good measure. As I put in at 1:00pm, the rain started and the sky turned slate gray. The wind blew and the temperature dropped. The radar looked like my route would be free of lightning, but the winds were 25mph and gusting much higher and the forecasted 2-4 foot seas were already at six feet. I paddled around the corner of Cushing Island into open ocean. If it got a bit worse, I could deal with it. If it got a lot worse, I’d head back. Arriving in Kennebunkport just after sunset, I experienced the same immense relief, and that, “Well I cheated death again” feeling, that I had felt
so many times on the expedition. It would be the last time I’d have that feeling or have to paddle in small craft warnings and storms. Unfortunately, three sea kayakers back up the coast near Corea Harbor and the Sally Islands did not fair so well as that violent front moved through. All capsized and two died, including the guide. Not being dressed for cold water was apparently the last link in the chain of events leading to the disaster. Without an incident report in-hand, I won’t speculate on, or repeat what I’ve heard about other likely contributing factors. Tragic, but it was likely avoidable.
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Planning Funding
Cash and in-kind gear and services would be required; a combination of gear and funding from sponsors and GoFundMe to raise needed cash.
Route planning
It’s ain’t over ‘til it’s over
With only a few miles to go, I couldn’t let up my guard. No way I could allow something bad to happen right before I finished! I’d stay in my drysuit and take all precautions. But, the next two days of ideal conditions were uneventful and saw me from Kennebunkport to the end of the Maine Island Trail on Fishing Island in Kittery, Maine by the New Hampshire border. I was met by a flotilla of friends, supporters, sponsors and a motorboat full of media. I wasn’t even out of my boat yet when good friend and Shipyard Brewing Company’s president passed me an Island Time IPA and my wife, Nicole, jumped on me with glee! On June 24th, PaddleQuest 1500 was finished and it was hard to believe that I started in the Adirondack Mountains of New York 75-days ago on April 16th. Eight hundred miles of canoeing and 700 miles of kayaking in some of the most splendid and most horrific conditions. I met incredible people and saw sights I will never forget and that I hope many others will get to see. I will never forget the pair of minke whales that surfaced right in front of my kayak near Pemaquid Point. They were just a few yards away and followed closely by a pod of Harbor Porpoise. It was so exciting I got chills. It was like I was in a Nat Geo episode. But better! Join the Northern Forest Canoe Trail at www.northernforestcanoetrail.org and the Maine Island Trail Association at www.mita.org for all the resources to plan trips and outings that are right for you.
• Delorme’s online trip planning tool at explore.delorme.com to create my route using waypoints and notations. • Northern Forest Canoe Trail Guidebook and ‘Through-Paddler’s Companion’ book, as well as the series of 13 water and tear resistant maps covering the 740-mile trail. • Maine Island Trail Association Guide book and robust App. • For the Saint John River and Bay of Fundy I’d use a combination of online and paper map and chart resources to create the trip plan for these segments.
Food=fuel
Twenty miles a day including portages and adverse conditions, my calorie burn would be phenomenal. I’d be eating like a teenager! Food is the heaviest item that I’d be carrying, so I wanted to go light but it had to be good; something to look forward to. And while I travelled with 7-10 days of food all the time, I’d take full advantage of restaurants and pubs along the way. Due to portages on the inland route, I didn’t want the weight of cans of beer, so these stops were necessary!
Waste
Outhouses and flush toilets were available and carry Wag Bags staying true to leave no trace outdoor ethics. There is a powdery polymer in the bag that solidifies, and makes inert, any waste. It can be disposed of safely in any trash receptacle.
Timing
Launch as early in the Spring as possible. The ice had to have gone out of the lakes in the Adirondack Mountains before I could start and the record warm winter and spring would help with early, but it wouldn’t help with flows. I had to catch high water from any snowmelt and spring rains. There are 162 miles of upstream travel and 63 carries and portages totalling 54 miles on the Northern Forest Canoe Trail. If I did not have enough water for some of the rivers that depend upon runoff, the number of
carries and number of miles would more. I was motivated to launch early and I would need some help from above!
Safety and risk management
Safety gear: InReach Explorer, VHF radio, strobe light for PFD, first aid kit, whistle, knife, air horn, signal mirror, spare paddle, etc. and knowing how to use everything is a given. A solo expedition especially, I’d need to anticipate and manage every aspect of risk and constantly assess my personal risk tolerance in a very dynamic environment with constantly changing variables. I’d utilize all available resources to discover as much detail about every aspect of the route(s) in advance. Failure to consider even one important element could be disastrous.
Companions
Even though I was capable of doing it all alone, it would be safer to have competent people meet up with me to paddle some of the more potentially dangerous sections of the journey. I’d have company for the Saranac Lakes and part of the Saranac River in the Adirondacks, crossing Lake Champlain from Plattsburgh, NY to the Vermont Islands, the Lower Saint John River through the Reversing Falls, the Bay of Fundy and Bold Coast of Maine.
FOLDING Canoes & Kayaks
Quest Folding Kayak
The Quests combine great looks with comfort and efficient cruising performance. Quests are ideal travel kayaks. Very light, yet ruggedly-built with space-age polyurethane materials which contain no toxic chemicals – the planet will thank you!
Puffin Saranac
Camping and lodging
I identified campsites and lodging that I could use if I could only achieve minimal miles due to circumstances like weather, or big miles if I was absolutely crushing it. That’d take the guesswork out of where to spend the night no matter how the day unfolds.
Border crossings
Border crossings by canoe and kayak is not common. I’d cross from Vermont into Quebec and back, and then a month later, Maine into New Brunswick and back. A valid passport that doesn’t expire within six months and Canadian currency are required. Many services in small Canadian towns don’t accept credit or debit cards. I’d determine in advance where to cross and made sure that I didn’t miss a checkpoint.
Puffin Kayaks are perfect travel companions. Great stability and paddling performance make Puffins enjoyable on the water. With good looks and light-weight price, they are a pleasure to own.
PakCanoe 170 in PakCanoes the Arctic The folding PakCanoe is your ticket to remote wilderness travel - and is equally at home taking your children for a spin closer to home!
FOR MORE: Expedition blog posts, photos, videos and John’s actual tracking map, go to: www.PaddleQuest1500.com PakCanoes are excellent for remote wilderness trips or adventures closer to home. Light-weight, compact for easy travel and storage, yet rugged, dependable and easy paddling.
https://youtu.be/1UR7yCW4Dno
www.pakboats.com Enfield, New Hampshire, USA (603)632-9500 • info@pakboats.com
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When the wind blows, you have to find an alternative launch for the kayak. Simon Everett discovers the Itchen is good for scratchin’.
K A Y A K F I S H I N G
ITCHN HEN &
S C R A T C H I N ’
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It has to be said that most flounder are caught on tackle way too heavy for them, so they are not generally thought of as a sporting species, but targeted on light tackle they can really give a good account of themselves, they are a small halibut, after all. As many modern lure and LRF anglers are discovering, the flounder has plenty of muscle and a decent tail to produce the power in a fight, provided it isn’t anchored to the seabed by a 4oz lead, so that makes them an ideal species to target from the kayak. I well remember a 2lber that turned my kayak in the tide and towed me 10 yards uptide before I got it to the net and another took a rod clean over the side of my dinghy when I was a youngster, I retrieved the rod, reel and flounder at low water.
On this particular day we launched from the public slip under the Itchen bridge. From there it was about a mile paddle against the ebbing tide. The tide wasn’t ideal, but that is one of the joys of fishing for flounder, it isn’t actually that critical, it would have been better to fish the tide up, but that would have meant a silly o’clock start and a leisurely launch was far more enticing. By tucking in out of the main flow the paddle wasn’t too strenuous, but enough to work off some calories, which is another benefit of fishing from the kayak, it is good for the body and good for the soul. We went to an area of the river that yields flounder on a regular basis, and sometimes throws up a decent one over the 2lb mark. We dropped anchor 60 or 70 yards from the tides edge in about two feet of water and close to the dredged channel where the depth dropped to about eight feet.The sloping bank was where we aimed our baits. With the tide flowing the flounder tend to hug the sides of these banks and pounce on any food dislodged by the tide. It doesn’t matter which way the tide is flowing but slack water is a generally dead period, so we lost no time baiting up. It was interesting to see the different approaches we each had. Dave likes to use a very blinged up rig, with loads of beads and spinning blades, the kind of thing you see on a charter boat targeting plaice. Paul is an avid float fisherman who has devised a floating ledger that he can adapt to use in any situation, he also had beads and blades as attractors on the hook length. My own rig is simplicity itself, a fixed ledger on a dropper with an 16” hook length and just a couple of beads close to the hook.
I fish extremely light for flounders, a 7g rod and 2000 sized reel loaded with 10lb braid and just a 10g ledger weight. Fishing this light gives even a mediocre flounder the chance to put up a scrap and really bend the rod, they even take line at times! The hook length is 12lb fluorocarbon to a size 4 fine wire Aberdeen.This very simplistic rig has served me well for years and I see no reason to change it, generally if there is a flounder in my arc of operation, I can catch it. I prefer a bunch of small ragworm, but Dave assured me that the small king rag we had would work perfectly well and it was what he always uses.
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We spread out with 30 or 40 yards between kayaks so as to give each other some room. Paul set himself up off the end of the mooring pontoon, so he could use the tide to trot his bait with the flow, his float indicating the depth by the way it cocked, or not. Provided it wasn’t bolt upright he knew he was on, or within an inch, of the bottom. Dave anchored out in more open water, working on the premise that the flounders might have dropped into the channel, or be working their way along the start of the shelf. I went into shallow water and fished into the deeper water, so I could drag my bait from the channel up into the sloping side of the channel. Flounders are inquisitive fish and will investigate movement or glints, hence the addition of some kind of attractors. My fluorescent beads stood out in the coloured water, whilst the flash and vibration of the spinner blades the others were using provides something for the predatory instincts of the flatties to home in on.To give my simple rig more chance I never leave it sat for longer than a minute. After casting out across the tide I let the weight settle and if I get no interest after a minute I gently lift the rod to drag the weight out of the mud and let it swing around a bit in the tide as I retrieve a yard or two.This results in a diagonal retrieve and the weight kicks up the mud, plus the scent of the bait is sent out in a wider cone. I just gave a gentle lob with the light rod and cast about 20 yards at 2 o’clock and let the weight settle on the bottom.There was still an hour and a half to low water, so Dave was confident the flounder would still be feeding. I gave it a minute and then drew the lead along the bottom a yard or so before pausing again, winding the rod tip back round towards the bow. Another pause of a minute or so and I dragged the bait another yard. Almost as soon as I stopped there was the rattle of a bite, another of the joys of using such sensitive gear is you can just about tell which claw a crab is using to steal your bait.This was no crab though, and seconds later the rod tip bent to the fish, as it tried to swim off.The rod arched over completely and the little reel sang as a couple of yards of line were pulled off by the fish.
of line, which is a far cry from being cranked in unceremoniously on the end of a beachcaster! Dave was also getting bites, eventually he connected with one and it gave him a great scrap, but it was a bass of around 40cms, good sport but not what we were after and being a nursery area it was released.True to form, once Dave had caught one, he caught several. Paul sat quietly, tied to the end of his pontoon, trotting his floats in the last vestige of tide, bobbing his baits over the seabed. He knew he was close to the bottom because he was being pestered by crabs, yet Dave and I hardly had any trouble with them. Maybe we were over cleaner ground and where Paul was there was some rubble for the crabs to ambush his worms from. Who knows? It was interesting to see how the different methods fared. Simplicity seemed to rule the day; I had two flatties and a bass. Dave had a handful of bass and Paul had a basketful of green crabs! One of the joys of estuary fishing is the special surroundings. Even here, in the heart of the city, there are the plaintiff cries of the oystercatchers and curlews, the gentle lap of the water and the personal attention of the half tame swans who are used to obtaining titbits from the boaters, which means your sandwiches aren’t safe! It all adds to the spice of life, and a few fish in the conditions made for a great day on the water, which is much better than a day in the office.
After a short, but spirited, tussle I drew the little flounder alongside the kayak. It wasn’t done yet and this is where the light tackle angler has to be wary, upon seeing the kayak it made a mad dive for the bottom. For safety I always preset the drag, when the rod arches the reel gives line to prevent break offs. If I need to exert more pressure I use my finger against the spool to increase friction.The flexibility of the light rod helped to cushion the dive and the reel yielded.The flounder, no more than 12ozs, had twice pulled off a couple of yards
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PADDE DLR LER Canoe Ca C anno an oe oe
136 United Kingdom
Ulster Canoe Festival by John McClean
142 Canada
Children of the Yukon by Chris Paton
156 United States & Canada
NFCT solo thru-paddle by Laurie Chandler
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Northern Ireland is a water-lover’s wonderland. It has spectacular coastline with world-class surf, several very good paddling rivers, and three of the five largest inland lakes in the United Kingdom.What’s even better is that everything is easily accessible and nothing is further than a two hour drive from wherever you happen to be. By John McClean. Photos: Troy Klewchuck and Alan Bates
ULT US LSTR TER C A N O E
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Game of Thrones
Right in the middle of the province, on the North shore of Lough Neagh, is the town of Antrim; a twenty minute drive from Belfast port and five minutes from the International Airport. That’s where we set up camp for the Ulster Canoe Festival, presented by Hou Canoes, on 16-18th September this year. We were camping in the grounds of Shane’s Castle, the seat of the O’Neills and still the home of Lord O’Neill today. Shane’s Castle is one of many local film locations for Game of Thrones, but more importantly for us, the grounds slope gently down to the shore of Lough Neagh and the River Maine runs right through the private estate.
Friday evening was spent setting up camp, wandering around admiring the location and spending time with old and new paddling acquaintances. A few people had brought musical instruments, so there was no shortage of atmosphere in the campsite. I estimate there were around 80 people there, which is impressive given that this is the Ulster Canoe Festival’s first year. Shane’s castle is just outside the town, so we were able to sample the local cuisine… or pizza delivery. Saturday morning we all checked the whiteboard to see where we were going for the day. There was the option to undertake an all-day journey on the River Maine – a rare privilege afforded to us because we were camping on the estate – or else
the day was divided into morning and afternoon sessions.The whole range of open canoe techniques was covered – with sessions on journeying, lining and poling as well as open water and white water skills. There were sailing and rescue sessions and sessions specifically directed at female paddlers. OC1 featured heavily with come and try sessions and a rolling clinic as well as more general OC1 skills sessions.There were even several non-paddling sessions with foraging, bushcraft and camp craft lessons on offer.
Coaching
The level of coaching available at the Ulster Canoe Festival was very high, with well known coaches from the UK including Dave Rossetter
and Jules Burnard and experienced local coaches and leaders such as Elaine ‘Shooter’ Alexander and Roy Huddleston amongst others. We had no idea beforehand who would be taking each session, which turned out to be a good move, because local knowledge is an important factor, sessions with the ‘big names’ weren’t over subscribed and all the coaches delivered quality sessions. While some of the sessions were based around the campsite, Lough Neagh and the Maine, most of the action took place on the Lower Bann. Several sessions were based in the small town of Toome, ten minutes from the camp ground. This is where Lough Neagh empties into the Bann, extending out to lough Beg. Beg means ‘small’ in
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Gaelic and it is dwarfed by its neighbour Lough Neagh, but at three miles long and a mile wide, Lough Beg is an ideal location for canoe sailing and open water coaching. With several uninhabited islands, Dermot from Forage Ireland (http://forageireland.com/), was able to demonstrate the wonders of the local verdure. Further down the Bann, at an area known locally as the Cutts, paddlers were able to spend time developing their white water and moving water skills. Returning to camp on Saturday evening we were able to sit around and share stories, or browse the iCanoe, Rogue Hammocks and Hou Canoes stalls before the food arrived. The food was good and there was lots of it. I think at that point several people could have faded and headed to their hammocks, vans or tents, but the evening sessions were well worth the effort. Dave Rossetter delivered a riveting talk on coaching for coaches, Matt Howes demonstrated how to outfit a canoe, Elaine ‘Shooter’ Alexander led an interactive session on Journey planning and Mike Ryder took a First Aid for paddlers course. After a long and busy day, not many stayed up into the wee small hours – because we had to get up on Sunday morning to do it all again!
Rivers in Northern Ireland are mostly quite short, so although it rains more than 200 days a year water levels can change dramatically.
Lough Neagh is fed by six major, and several smaller rivers. Up to 43% of the land area of Northern Ireland drains into the lough, and all the water flows out to the sea via Toome lock and the Lower Bann.
Thanks to…
The Ulster Canoe Festival was an unqualified success and will undoubtedly run for many years to come. It could not have happened without the support of Hou Canoes, the Canoe Association of Northern Ireland, Antrim & Newtownabbey Borough Council, the Put In Paddling Magazine, Waterways Ireland, Yak, iCanoe, Rogue Hammocks and NI Trucks.
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W I L D
Fifty days on the Yukon River with kids By Chris Paton More and more parents, paddling parents among them, are choosing to take their children on extended trips and adventures. As a paddler and friend of one such family, I decided to join them for two to three months on the Yukon River, paddling from Canada into Alaska. With or without kids, the expedition required a lot of planning and preparation. As a non-parent, I just assumed that the greatest challenge was the geographical one – paddling a few thousand kilometres down a remote northern river. If we took every precaution then surely it would be like any other canoeing trip, although I did wonder if it would be that easy. Others had other things on their mind, such as large mammals with claws and teeth.
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“You’re going to need a gun,”
one of my colleagues told me a month before I quit my job to spend the summer on the river. “It’s dangerous not to be prepared.” He was a hunter, concerned about bears and the fact that I was soon to be travelling in grizzly country with two kids under the age of ten. I was more concerned about the kids, and my lack of experience with them. It turned out the hunter was right; I was totally unprepared for this – paddling with children.
Originally, it was to be Lars and I that paddled the length of the Yukon to the sea, but the idea developed somewhere along the border of Greece and Turkey, as Lars Simonsen, Suzi Oud and their kids,Tiuri (9) and Liva (7), neared the end of their epic 18-month kayak expedition from
Copenhagen to Istanbul. I remember calling Lars on the mobile, the wind flicking at the sails on his Hobie Island kayak, made for suitably adventurous background static on the line. “I had to call, Lars. I have just decided I am going to quit my job to go on the Yukon.” “Excellent,” said Lars. “We’re going on an adventure!” The fact that Lars, Suzi and the kids already were on an adventure slipped my mind. I never considered how that might affect our Yukon journey, or the stability of the canoes. After 18 months on the water, Tiuri and Liva had transformed from adorable kids to 20-kilo sea monkeys, equally at home on a sand bank in the middle of the river as they were balancing on the gunwales of a 17’ Prospector canoe.
Coastlines had to be explored, and, following our lunch of bannock bread, jam, cheese and the
all-important Nutella
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In between wildlife spotting and guessing the impossible, paddling with children was pure
unadulterated fun
My wife, Jane, and I thought we were experienced paddlers with over 15 years of canoeing beneath our hulls. But until we put in on the banks of the Yukon on the 29th June, neither of us had experienced moveable ballast before. The kids were like loose cannons rolling around the deck, making themselves comfortable from one end of the canoe to the other. It made for very interesting paddling. Fortunately, there was plenty to occupy them on the river. “Bald eagle,” Tiuri said and pointed to the right. “Eagle,” said Liva. She pointed to the left.
“That’s seven today,” said Tiuri. “How many tomorrow?”
I Spy
Tallying the wildlife count was a popular activity. That and the classic game of I Spy. Luckily for me, I Spy took second place to wildlife.The things that Liva spied were often off the river and on another continent – a classmate’s hairbrush, or the cookies they baked one
Christmas. It made for some very long and protracted games.The hunter was right. I wasn’t prepared for this.
In between wildlife spotting and guessing the impossible, paddling with children was pure unadulterated fun, pun intended. Coastlines had to be explored, and, following our lunch of bannock bread, jam, cheese and the allimportant Nutella, we combed the beaches or sheltered from the rain beneath hastily erected tarps.We were lucky and made good time across Lake Laberge, averaging 6km per hour in heavily laden boats with a good tailwind. Others were not so fortunate with the weather, and we spent some time camped at Lower Laberge while coordinating a search with the Royal Canadian Mounted Police.
Missing kayaker
I had only just finished reading a chapter of Jack London’s The Call of the Wild to the kids at Lower Laberge, when a large dog padded into camp and sniffed at the entrance to the tent.
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ThePADDLER 148 “It’s Spitz, from the story,” said Tiuri as I unzipped the door and crawled outside. Spitz’s owner fiddled with the lines on his jury-rigged raft as I joined the others down by the river. He was desperate to find his paddling partner – last seen in big waves on the far side of the lake. “We haven’t seen her,” said Lars. After a minute, he added, “We could put the drone up, and take a look around.” Bedtime was postponed, as it often was – it’s hard to sleep in the land of the midnight sun. Lars flew the drone as high and as far as the wind and battery allowed, before recalling the aircraft. The adults discussed how to proceed with the search while the kids re-enacted scenes from the book. Childish imagination was preferred to the wild theories the adults entertained about the missing kayaker. Spitz’s owner decided to wait for the remainder of his group to arrive and we chose to call it a night, with the promise that we would help if needed.
Satellite communication
Rescue was one of the things I was prepared for. With a Delorme satellite communication device bought in Whitehorse, we were able to send and receive text messages. Up to that point we had only sent updates to Facebook, charting our progress and the daily wildlife count. Before we left Lower Laberge, however, I had used the device to initiate and cancel a search and rescue mission on behalf of the kayaker and his group. It turned out to be relatively straight forward compared to the demands of paddling in the stern of the canoe each day. “Tell me a story,” said Liva. It was her second favourite saying after, “I am hungry.” “Another story?” was my usual response. “Okay, give me five minutes to think of one.” The river bank slipped by and we steered around the occasional sweeper tree or gravel bar poking out from beneath the surface.
Childish imagination was preferred to the wild theories the adults entertained about
the missing kayaker
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Paddington was a hit. So much so that when a large black bear swam onto our island and lumbered through one of our camps in Alaska, Liva
confused fact with fiction
“Has it been five minutes?” asked Liva after less than two. “No.You’ll have to wait until we get around the next bend.There,” I said and pointed. “Okay.”
Paddington Bear
It was Paddington Bear that often came to my rescue. Some Paddington stories I remembered others I made up. During story time, Liva would turn around on her seat on the dry bag to face me, and we would begin. Paddington was a hit. So much so that when a large black bear swam onto our island and lumbered through one of our camps in Alaska, Liva confused fact with fiction. “It’s Paddington,” she said and pointed as the bear peered in our direction. It was time to test the hunter’s concerns. Would Paddington leave us alone or would we have to defend ourselves? During our preparations in Whitehorse, I had volunteered to buy the safety equipment.
Besides the Delorme, I had also stocked up on bear spray. I bought six bottles of spray, one large one with nine seconds of spray for each of the adults, and two small for the kids, with just six seconds in each. “That’s a lot of bear spray,” said the shop assistant. “Yep,” I said and gave her my credit card. It did look like a lot of spray, and at $50 a bottle, it felt like it too. Of course, when Paddington arrived we reached for our cameras first and bear spray second. The bear took one look at the four adults and the two child-sized bear sprays – pointing and shouting – and beat a hasty retreat to the other side of the island. We saw only black bear on the Yukon – the grizzlies were further downriver, fishing for salmon. But the bears we did see were often female with cubs, young males, or, in the case of Paddington, large males with enough experience to leave us alone. We were never bothered by bears or any other large mammal during our time on the Yukon.
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When the opportunity came to see a problem bear skinned after it was shot in a village, the magic of bears took on a new intimacy as the children leaned in close, pointing at the different parts of the bear and pressing the same parts of their own bodies. Beneath the fur, the black bear looks positively human.
Time is different on the Yukon. If you spend enough time on the river, you will reach your destination – it is wide enough and flows fast enough to transport even the slowest canoeist downstream. Unfortunately, I already knew in June that we didn’t have enough time to get to the end if we wanted to beat the autumn storms that plague the west coast of Alaska. June is a busy time for teachers in Denmark, and we couldn’t start before my pupils had finished their final exam.We divided the time we had left with
roughly five hours of paddling each day.The rest of the time was spent in camp, shooing off bears and crawling through mud.
Mud, it seems, is another prerequisite for paddling with kids, and you need a lot of it. Mud is the perfect antidote to a long day of paddling in the wind, or the threat of thunderstorms – again – and the thought of packing away a wet tent for the third day in a row. The kids had so much fun in the mud, Lars and I had to join them, flinging ourselves into the sticky, grey substance and belly flopping into the river. Mud, I imagine, is also good for mosquitoes, adding an extra layer of protection to one’s skin. We had been fortunate to have escaped the mosquitoes in Canada, but all that was to change in Alaska. The mosquitoes were ravenous – built like miniature bulls and without a shred of mercy. Even Liva’s cheery
The kids had so much fun in the mud, Lars and I had to join them, flinging ourselves into the sticky, grey substance and belly
flopping into the river
approach to life was challenged by the onslaught of clouds of winged teeth.
“How big is a mosquito?” we would joke in the canoe.
“This big,” said Liva, clapping her hands together with a satisfactory kersplat! But the mosquitoes around Slavens Roadhouse, a public use cabin in the Yukon Charley River Wildlife Area, were not to be deterred.
We had our bug suits. We wore caps to keep the netting off our face, wellington boots to tuck our trousers into, but the best defence against mosquitoes was staying indoors, and after a month on the river, we allowed ourselves that luxury. We stayed at Slavens for three days, partly due to Suzi’s allergic reaction – not to a mosquito, but to a wasp. A yellow jacket as the locals called them – about twice the size of the wasps in Britain.
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Preparing for allergic reactions and other medical emergencies was Lars and Suzi’s responsibility. We had adrenalin pens and antihistamine tablets ready for just such an emergency, but at Slavens we were surrounded by Rangers and Park Police. Suzi couldn’t have chosen a better place in the wilds to get stung. We were prepared for this and more. But as the summer days shifted into fall, and the leaves on the trees began to droop and the temperature dropped, we realised that the Bering Sea was beyond what was fun for this particular adventure.
You can read more stories about our Yukon River Family Expedition on www.lifeisgoodfollowus.com and at www.chrispaton.dk
Paddling with children must be fun. There must also, apparently, be mud, or something like it. Liva and Tiuri were expert at making the most of every sand bank and gravel bar we passed or pitched our tents on. Tiuri invented games and took photos of moose and their calves, while Liva measured animal tracks in the sand, her tiny palms dwarfed by wolf prints. The kids took their turn with small chores, leaving the heavy lifting to the adults. When we lashed the canoes together as a raft they crawled between them. When the canoes were close but separate, Tiuri built his own tiny raft with his father to send goodies between the two canoes. There was always
something to do, even homework, and the kids would often read a chapter as we paddled downriver, burning the pages on the fire at the end of each day. Jane and I got off the water in Tanana. Lars, Suzi and the kids continued as far as Galena, paddling with a German family with two small children, half Tiuri’s age. Before we split into two, we paddled for a few days as one large group of three canoes, six adults and four children, with not another soul in sight, and many kilometres between one remote village and the next. This was adventurous parenting at its best. Pitching camp and preparing food surrounded by bear and wolf prints is, quite likely, beyond the comfort zone of a lot of parents. But the Call of the Wild beckons to all who choose to listen. A quick search of the Internet reveals that more and more families choose to answer that call, and on the rivers and in the wild places of this world you will find more and more children of the wild and the parents that follow them.
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S O L O T H R U - P A D D L E o n t h e
NFCT NC Hidden somewhere along the sinuous curves of New Hampshire’s Upper Ammonoosuc River is a secret nook that will forever be mine. Nestled on a small bluff below tall pines and above a tiny gravel beach is the perfect stealth campsite. I arrived there, weary but satisfied, on the 26th evening of my solo thru-paddle of the Northern Forest Canoe Trail, the longest mapped inland paddling route in the United States. I had left the trail’s western terminus in Old Forge, NewYork on June 20, 2015, bound for Fort Kent, Maine, roughly 740 miles away.Already, the miles in NewYork,Vermont, and Quebec were finished. Beyond New Hampshire lay Maine and the second half of the trail. By Laurie Chandler
T NewYork Saranac Lakes. Photo: Northern Forest Canoe Trail
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New York Middle Saranac. Photo: Mike Lynch
All NFCT thru-paddlers have travelled west to east, navigating six of the trail’s 22 rivers and streams in an upstream direction. Going east to west would be tougher, tackling rivers like New York’s Saranac and Maine’s Allagash in the ‘wrong’ direction. The spectrum of thru-paddlers is as diverse as the trail itself. A four-year-old boy with his French parents, a Yorkshire Terrier (appropriately named Moxie), a man without portage wheels who carried his gear and hand-crafted cedar canoe in one load, and others with virtually no paddling experience. In other words, the NFCT is a trail for the multitudes. Compared to the Appalachian Trail, the 16-year-old NFCT is in its infancy and one wonders how long it will be until this incredibly diverse, well-maintained and often civilized trail will become as popular. For the purposes of this article, the journey will be described from the perspective of an eastward bound thru-paddler, although the majority of users paddle shorter sections and go downstream.
With no official campsites near, I had been racing the dusk to find a workable spot along muddy, brushy riverbanks best suited to the muskrats and raccoons whose tracks were everywhere. A quick scramble up the steep bank revealed a small clearing, thick with cushiony pine needles, dry and welcoming. Near the back, a row of crooked fence posts hinted at a human history. I wrestled my boat up and out of sight and soon my camp was tidy and organized, with a rope hung for my food, water boiling for supper, and everything in its place. There was even time to reflect on the day just past, fairly typical in its joys and challenges.
Ten upstream river miles, four miles portaging along busy highways and quiet country roads, three times loading my 13-foot Wenonah Fusion Kevlar canoe onto (and off of) the kayak cart to bypass dams and low water. The joys came quickly to mind – friendly weather, bright wildflowers and the village of Stark, with its white covered bridge and iconic buildings, surely borrowed from beneath someone’s old-fashioned Christmas tree.
Trail angels
Stark, NH
The evening before, Ray and Hildy Danforth, friends of a friend, had generously taken three tired, muddy, ravenous paddlers into their home, me and fellow NFCT paddlers Sydney and Marji Aveson. Like its hiking counterpart, the Appalachian Trail, the NFCT is sprouting trail angels, kind and generous souls who bestow trail
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NY Brown's Tract Inlet canoeing NY entering Lower Locks
NH stealth site on Upper Ammo NH passing Nash Stream on Upper Ammo
New Hampshire Upper Ammonoosuc River. Photo: Northern Forest Canoe Trail
magic on passing paddlers. Ray and Hildy’s magic had included not only fresh garden produce in a homey dinner, hot showers, and comfy beds but also a drive to scout the Upper Ammo.
“Put in at the Emerson Road Bridge,” Ray and Hildy had advised. “Working up past Nash Stream will be a challenge, but the next few miles are deeper and definitely worth paddling.” Just like that, my tentative plans for that section had changed for the better, eliminating five miles of planned portaging.After persevering past the quick current, shallow gravel bar and slippery rocks at the outlet of Nash Stream, I was indeed rewarded. Several miles of gentle river penetrated the shady forest.The lyrical notes of a hermit thrush and the ever present hope of spotting a moose made the first miles fly by. Blue sky peeked through layered clouds.The challenge grew nearer Stark, as the river quickened. Soon I was hopping in and out of the boat in an all-toofamiliar dance. Refreshingly cool at first, it was soon maddeningly slow and dangerously treacherous and I barely reached the takeout safely. But in the end, I had paddled, not walked, and it was just another day on the NFCT.
Local knowledge
Never pass up an opportunity, I’d discovered, to tap the knowledge of those you meet, to confirm put-ins, take-outs, and current water conditions. Research and planning are critical, but every journey down the trail will be unique in its own combination of weather, water levels, people, and wildlife. Other, unanticipated factors may also intervene. For instance, on several occasions, highway paving significantly affected my portaging plans.
Resources abound for advance trip planning. The NFCT organization, headquartered in Waitsfield,Vermont, is a non-profit responsible for trail stewardship and education, partnering with landowners and communities to improve and promote the trail. They publish a guidebook and an excellent series of 13 waterproof section maps covering the length of the trail. Updates on current trail conditions are always available on NFCT’s website and should be read carefully. Another indispensable resource is ‘The Northern Forest Canoe Trail Thru-Paddler’s Companion’ by Katina Daanen. At home, during the long, snowy Maine winter, I had studied all of these, as well as the many paddler blogs and trail journals shared by members of the NFCT paddling community. There was a time, several heartbeats ago geologically, when man first ventured into the
area we now call New England. The great Laurentide ice sheet was receding, leaving behind a foreign and fascinating landscape. The weight of the mile-thick glacier had sunk the land far below its present level. Where Lake Champlain now sits was a vast inland sea where the first Paleoindians hunted seals and whales. Mastodon and mammoth roamed the surrounding lands. At first, people travelled by foot, but another heartbeat passed and the dugout canoe emerged. Instantly, the arteries of lakes and streams that covered the lands became highways. Passing from one highway to another became a portage. Those routes that served so well for centuries, for millennia, are still there today, and they are the NFCT.
Whose imagination is not stirred by the thought of following the paths of fur trappers, the Iroquois and Wabanaki, Thoreau and the rusticators, deep into the wilderness? And though there are those souls who find the idea of a thru-journey compelling, there are many more who sample the trail for a shorter time. To date, NFCT’s official list includes the names of 87 recognized thru-paddlers and six section-paddlers, but many thousands more people paddle parts of the trail every year.
The beginning
The NFCT begins gently, in New York’s Adirondack Park, a six-million acre treasure of wild beauty decorated with rustically unique Great Camps. These far-from-humble summer homes and boathouses are often crafted from the gifts of the surrounding forest – logs, birch bark, and native stone. In the Adirondacks, paddlers will discover an abundance of wellplaced lean-tos and campsites, as well as all the comforts of home at places like Long Lake’s traditional Adirondack Hotel.
Thru-paddlers thankfully traverse both the Raquette and Saranac Rivers in the downstream direction, saving their energy for the challenges of the numerous non-wheelable Adirondack carries. Watching a rough and rocky portage trail unfold beneath the bow of the canoe, with the weight heavy on your shoulders, fosters a deep connection to those who’ve gone before around places like Buttermilk and Raquette Falls. The journey through history continues as you pass through locks a century old on either side of beautiful Lower Saranac Lake. New York’s last river, the Saranac, is its mightiest, where turbulent whitewater has been a trip ender for more than one thru-paddler.
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fabulous breakfast after a night in the elegance of their Queen Anne Victorian mansion. My memorable breakfast included fresh fruit with yogurt and granola, banana walnut pancakes with bacon, fresh orange juice, coffee, and white chocolate cranberry muffins. The latter were packed up for me by Tim to fuel my journey across the nearby international border and into the province of Quebec.
Grey Gables Mansion B&B
Lake Champlain, the sixth largest lake in the United States, is not to be taken lightly. From Plattsburgh, New York, the NFCT crosses some 30 miles of the northern end of this historic lake, passing the site of a decisive naval victory in the War of 1812. From ivy-draped Cumberland Head Light, paddlers weave between South and North Hero Islands to enter Vermont’s Missisquoi River. Strong winds and waves can be a friend or an enemy. Weather conditions have
Quebec’s pastoral beauty brings to mind the work of the painters of the Dutch Golden Age, although the multitude of picturesque barns and cows also explain why even filtered water from the Missisquoi is not suitable for drinking. This section is one of several along the trail where water must be purchased or obtained from municipal sources. Everywhere, friendly people are out enjoying the river, which features two well-equipped campgrounds and the town of Mansonville, with an historic Shaker-style round barn and another notable eatery, the Boulangerie Owl’s Bread bakery and restaurant.
The 5.7 mile long Grand Portage is breathtaking, in more ways than one, as it almost 700 feet is the first and longest upstream challenge for climbs from the North Branch the thru-paddler of the Missisquoi before dropping down been known to stall paddlers here for days or to Lake Memphremagog. At the Perkins Landing send them part of the way by the Grand Isle boat launch, one is welcome to camp in the Ferry. For me, travelling solo, this was one grassy picnic area before starting down the lake, section where I wanted company. Former thruthe NFCT’s pathway back to the United States. paddlers Peter Macfarlane and Dan Brown Paddlers enter Canada after visiting an actual joined me, camping overnight in lean-tos at border station, but check back in with U.S. Knight Island State Park, gorging on pastries from customs via video phone at the Newport Hero’s Welcome general store, then sprinting for marina at the south end of Memphremagog. Vermont’s Missisquoi River in driving rain, caring The border not as long as the wind was at our backs.
The 74-mile Missisquoi, one of the NFCT’s two
Wild and Scenic Rivers,
The 74-mile Missisquoi, one of the NFCT’s two Wild and Scenic Rivers, is the first and longest upstream challenge for the thru-paddler. From its calm beginning in the Missisquoi National Wildlife Refuge, the river crosses Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom, growing more challenging as it approaches Canada. Grey Gables Mansion B&B in Richford, Vermont is a must stop. Owners Tim and Debbie Green treat paddlers to a
Quebec round barn Mansonville
Quebec Perkins Landing with Sydney & Marji
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Nulhegan beaver dam
The Nulhegan passes through another wildlife refuge and in summer can challenge the paddler with the extremes of low water followed by technical whitewater that must be portaged around. Those willing to traverse a multitude of curves and beaver dams, though, will discover a multitude of birds and flowers, with a magical feeling of remoteness in spite of the actual proximity to a paved highway.
The second part of Laurie’s NFCT story will be in the Early Spring issue of the Paddler. Camped at the NFCT farmstand in Vermont
Brighton State Park, on Spectacle Pond, is a gem that the trail didn’t even pass until 2013, when the portage between the Clyde and Nulhegan rivers was shortened. Every year, NFCT staff and volunteers work to create and improve campsites, simplify portages, and install amenities such as lean-to’s and composting privies. The trail now traverses 56 lakes and ponds, including this tiny beauty.
From there, the Connecticut River flies 20 miles in a joyful downstream rush, delivering the thru-paddler to New Hampshire’s two upstream rivers. These two rivers are very different, but equally trying in spots. It was on the Upper Ammo that I found my special nook. The next night I was in a private campground, then heading up the wide and beautiful Androscoggin, on my way to Maine and the rest of the story.
Nulhegan fledgling redwing blackbird
Back in Vermont, the thru-paddler faces both upstream and downstream challenges, on first the Clyde and later the Nulhegan rivers. The Clyde is a fascinating river, which begins its descent to Lake Memphremagog over 30 miles away, emerging from Island Pond beneath an old hotel. At Ten Mile Square Road in East Charleston, lies the one-of-a-kind NFCT Farmstand, run by Bill Manning and his wife Pat, who allow thru-paddlers to camp just before the Fen. It’s hard to decide which of the farm stand’s offerings you crave more after miles on the trail, fresh produce or homemade ice cream sandwiches. The Fen itself is tricky to navigate, a world of waving grasses, shimmering light, carnivorous plants, and an elusive and ever-changing channel.
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