We're loving... Lily of the Valley

We’re loving...

LILY OF The VALLeY

On 1st May, in the countdown to our launch, The Perfume Society ‘flower-bombed’ women we admire with little bunches of this pure white nodding flower – from photographer Mary McCartney to chef Angela Hartnett, TV’s Lorraine Kelly to architect Zaha Hadid, actress Sienna Miller to Vogue Editor Alexandra Shulman…

We were following a wonderful French custom: on May Day, lily of the valley is given by men (and women) to those they love and admire, as a symbol of springtime – and a token of admiration. We’d love to encourage it as a tradition here: what lovelier way to herald spring…? (So lily of the valley has become The Perfume Society’s ‘adopted flower’.) But of course, lily of the valley needn’t just be enjoyed in May. As a fragrance note, it features in one of the world’s most celebrated scents – Diorissimo –among other lovely, white flower creations, just waiting for you to sniff them out…

For such a tiny white flower, lily of the valley packs a heck of a scented punch. Just a few sprigs of Convollaria majalis can fill a room with their green, cheery sweetness, helping to bid farewell to the drear of winter. (The second part of its Latin name refers to the fact that it flowers in May.) Personally, we can’t think of a soul who doesn’t love this flower, which pushes up from the bare soil to lift our hearts.

The tradition of giving nosegays of lily of the valley dates back to May 1561. King Charles IX of France – aged just 10 – was presented with a little bunch of muguet, the flower we know today of lily of the valley. That gesture was meant to symbolise luck and prosperity, and the ‘boy King’ so loved the idea that he began to offer posies of this so-fragrant flower to the ladies of his court each year, on 1st May. Around the start of the 20th Century, that tradition really took off, and French men began to present lily of the valley to women as a sign of their affection.

Nowadays, it’s a more general custom: muguet is given between friends, family or even colleagues. In France, 1st May is now declared a public holiday; in the country, families

get up in the morning and head to the woods to pick the flowers. But there are political undertones, beneath that innocent façade: 1st May is ‘Labour Day’, and you may also spot sprigs of lily of the valley on the lapels of workers demonstrating and parading, which is another May Day (or ‘fête du travail’) tradition. There are even special regulations that allow French people, and some organisations, to sell these flowers on 1st May without paying tax or having to fret about the usual retail regulations and red tape.

The scent of the flowers itself, of course, is almost spicy, so sweet and green, with hints of lemon. Yet ironically, it’s impossible to extract the scent of lily of the valley from the flowers themselves. They’re too fragile to survive being steam-distilled, and the technique of enfluerage (using solvents or waxes to tease out the scent) doesn’t work, either. Thank heavens, then, for the skill of the perfumer – because by mixing other aromatic compunds, it’s possible to come up with a lily of the valley note that even someone with the acuity of a Miami airport sniffer dog couldn’t tell from the real thing. How’s it done? Often, through the use citrus and florals such as jasmine, orange blossom, rosy or green notes – and some of the most magical synthetics in a perfumer’s palette, with names like Lilial, Lyral and hydroxycitronellal.

Lily of the valley plants themselves, though, have a surprisingly dark side: all parts of the plant are highly poisonous. (And for sure, keep your children away from the appealing-looking red berries which ripen some time after the flower fades.) But personally, nothing could put us off growing them. Plants can be a little tricky to establish, but it’s worth trying (and trying again, if at first you don’t succeed). Dried crowns take ages to get going, and often come to nothing. Clumps from friends can be moody,

© Diana TaliunFotolia.com

Christian Dior’s ‘lucky flowers’ were sewn into the hems of his dresses

too. The best way, our green-fingered friends tell us, is to buy a ready-potted plant with healthy roots, and plant out somewhere that mimics the conditions lily of the valley naturally flourishes: a cool, damp corner of the garden, with lots of leafmould worked in. (Failing that, garden compost.) Spread out the roots carefully and cover with a couple of inches/5 cm of your crumbly, leafmould-y soil. Within a few years you may be wondering how to tame your spreading cluster; they were once described as ‘the worst of all delicious weeds’. (Though we can definitely think of worse horticultural challenges.)

In the language of flowers, lily of the valley means sweetness, return to happiness, humility and ‘you’ve made my life complete’ – so it’s perhaps hardly surprising that

this fabulous flower is so often favoured by brides for both headdresses and bouquets. Grace Kelly carried lily of the valley when she married Prince Rainier – ditto Catherine Middleton (now the Duchess of Cambridge), for her wedding to Prince William. We love the idea, meanwhile, that fresh sprigs of Christian Dior’s ‘lucky flower’ were sewn into the hems of his dresses, so that when his models did a twirl on the catwalk, the delicate scent would envelop his salon. We’re told the couturier grew lily of the valley in his own glasshouses, in fact, for that exact purpose…

We suggest you treat yourself to a sprig. (Though we’d choose a little vase over a hem, ourselves.) And check out some of the gorgeous ways that perfumers have ‘bottled’ this most delicious of flowers…

We adore this collectible 1960s Diorissimo magazine advertisement

GreeN AND GOrGeOUS

Lily of the valley has inspired countless ‘noses’, who’ve explored the different nuances of this prettiest of flowers. We would suggest as a really interesting exercise to get out there and smell different interpretations of this flower, as a ‘project’. The fragrances listed range from pure luxe pricetags to very accessible; some perfumers play up the green, fresh edge, while others enhance lily of the valley’s sweet qualities. (If you’re a Perfume Society subscriber, your ‘Note Book’ is perfect for writing down your impressions.)

DIOR DIORISSIMO Considered the ‘grande dame’ of lily of the valley perfumes, it was created by Edmond Roudnitska in 1956, who described it as ‘a pure lily-ofthe-valley scent that also has the odour of the woods in which it is found and the indefinable atmosphere of the springtime’. Just so.

PenhalIgOn’S lIly Of the Valley A green and woodsy interpretation, launched in 1976, described as having a ‘rainy-day’ quality. A little more staying power than some, with its sandalwood and oakmoss base.

CRabtRee & eVelyn lIly A divine lily of the valley fragrance, evoking woodland mosses, dewy green notes, and with whispers of ylang ylang and musk. (The 5,000 ‘charter subscribers’ to The Perfume Society will find a Lily Hand Cream in their first ‘Perfume Discovery’ box, a gift on signing up. There are lots of ways to enjoy this scent, actually: we keep a bar of the soap tucked in our lingerie.)

gueRlaIn Muguet Each year, Guerlain offers a limited edition of a fresh interpretation of their Muguet fragrance, in a specially designed bottle, with just a few numbered bottles available worldwide. The stuff of dreams.

Van Cleef & aRPelS Muguet blanC Cool and so fresh, perfumer Antoine Maisondeau wrote this about his creation: ‘The touching, graceful delicacy of lily of the valley is embellished with white peony, the radiant touch of neroli and the elegant caress of white cedar softened with satiny musk….’

yaRDley lIly Of the Valley Classic and elegant, light and fresh, Yardley’s version offers citrusy top notes, with jasmine, geranium and magnolia adding to the white flower bouquet at its so-pretty heart.

flORIS lIly Of the Valley This opens with a twist of sparkling lemon, and while lily of the valley dominates the heart, you might detect a touch of ylang ylang, rose or tuberose, too. A timeless classic from the collection of this historic English perfume house.

CaROn Muguet De bOnheuR From the classic French fragrance house, the lily of the valley is highlighted in this so-pretty scent by lilac, jasmine, pear, heliotrope and musk, opening with a ‘murmur of green’ in the background.

Grace Kelly carried lily of the valley when she married Prince Rainier – ditto Catherine Middleton for her wedding to Prince William