FOOD & DRINK The evening’s wine pairings are displayed atop the baby grand piano. Chef Rozz and Shantel Grace share a laugh before guests arrive. Photos by Steph Castor
Nathan Friedman’s face. Friedman is a 14-year-old hospitality protégé who has been helping at the farm, along with his grandpa, since day one. He affirms that all dishes are coming back to the kitchen licked clean and reports on the overall “vibe” in the parlor. With a smirk, he lends an audible pat on the back to Rozz. He is a well-mannered young man with an intense love for food and charisma that could earn a five-star review. Sheilah Tackett was an original Ramen Bowls employee. She came to the farm in the winter following some cancelled weekend plans on her way up from her parents’ farm in southern Kansas (thanks, Covid).
EAT THIS NOW | DRINK THIS NOW All photos developed and scanned by FilmX
ratives with neighbors and invites strangers to join in. She has built a home with Rozz that thoughtfully redefines hospitality as we know it and sends guests home with bellies full of wine and wanderlust. “What better way to facilitate this experience and have everyone in the community come together than to do it in our own home,” says Rozz as he smiles at Grace and raises his Negroni in conclusion. “Our main goal here is just to make everyone feel as special as possible because you’re all sparkly, and glittery, and worth it. We wouldn’t be doing this if it wasn’t for all of you. The space is yours for the night. We don’t turn tables for a reason.”
Nightcap
She texted Grace on a whim and worked through dinner service that same night. Her go-with-the-flow nature made her a perfect addition to the Saltwell roster, as she’s been parked next to the Hen Den (aka the chicken coop) and helping out weekly ever since. Tackett manages day-to-day administrative tasks and meticulously polishes and arranges the parlor to assert the fine dining standards that mesh with the “come as you are” mentality, making the experience approachable for any occasion. Kate Frick is a household name for cocktail connoisseurs. Former owner of the iconic Myers Hotel Bar in Tonganoxie, Kansas, Frick curated the farm’s bar menu. Her ingredients are just as whimsical as the names for her concoctions—The Gayfeather is a lavender, green tea, and mezcal-based libation, just to name one—and it’s no surprise to hear someone say, “That’s the best Manhattan I’ve ever had.” Frick also works as a farmer for Crum’s Heirlooms on weekdays and helps deliver the haul to Saltwell. Rozz’s father, Gary Petrozz, is a retired railroad employee and moved to Kansas to be closer to his son. He keeps to himself and visits during the day to mow the grass, patch roofs, and fix problems the farm didn’t it know it had. None of the magic would exist without Grace, who is the mastermind behind it all. When they say there is glitter everywhere at the farm, they really mean it. Grace approaches her work as a poet. Her personality is effervescent. She self-edits and revises industry protocol to ensure that her employees, friends, and community feel safe, seen, and provided for. She exchanges nar-
“You know, if you would have told me that I’d leave the Southside of Chicago for an abandoned farm in Kansas, I would have called you crazy,” says Rozz as he dumps watermelon rinds into the goat pen. From expanding the parlor to include outdoor seating (weather permitting) with live music and cocktail hours, to planting a “goth” garden of rare black herbs and flowers, to installing an industrial kitchen while their “goat guys” Daniel and Dave restore the barn for private events—Rozz and Grace have big plans in store. Just one year in the making, Saltwell has indeed carefully translated feelings of falling in love, self-discovery, and getting lost into an intentional and sensory experience. At the end of dinner, everyone wraps up at their own pace. It’s not unusual for the juxtaposition of state politicians, renowned painters, magicians, and even a celebrity national champion NCAA basketball coach to be seen at the farm. They mingle with tables, peruse the art on the walls made by queer folks and women of color, flip through poetry books, and tinker around on piano keys. They bypass differences. They dig out their phones for a momentary selfie. They order another drink. They are hesitant to leave but don’t hesitate to get back on the books.
Saltwell Farm Kitchen is open for dinner service on Fridays and Saturdays as well as for private events. To make a reservation, visit http://www.saltwellfarmkitchen.com Saltwell Farm Kitchen 214 North 800 Road, Overbrook, KS 66542
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The Panang Curry at Thai Orchid
BY KALA ELKINTON Thai Orchid 6504 Martway St, Mission, KS 66202
Tucked into a strip mall that faces the road behind Johnson Drive in Mission, KS is a cozy Thai Kala restaurant with some of the best food in Elkinton the metro. This hidden gem isn’t something you just stumble upon. It’s a place you have to search for or be told about. Honestly, it’s better that way. The dining room decor is modest, comfortable, and warm, and the staff mirrors this sentiment. The restaurant is perfect for both Thai enthusiasts and newcomers. The menu is full of classical dishes with thoughtful and clear descriptions so there are no surprises. The Panang Curry is made with coconut milk, which makes it a sweeter, creamier version of the more traditional fare and comes with mild heat from the use of red chilies. You can request more spice if that’s the way you like to roll. In addition to red chilies, the curry’s flavor complexity can be attributed to a blend of fish sauce, kaffir lime zest and leaves, coriander, cumin, and lemongrass. At Thai Orchid, you can choose your protein (chicken, pork, tofu, beef, shrimp, or duck) or opt for the veggie version, which is loaded with stewed peppers and peas. The curry is perfectly portioned alongside steamed jasmine rice, and the lunch menu will toss in two crispy and adorably bite-sized crab rangoons.
The French Blonde at Tom’s Town Distilling Co. BY KALA ELKINTON
Tom’s Town Distilling Co. 1701 Main Street, Kansas City, MO 64108
Maybe it’s the high price, or maybe it’s the overuse of random and expensive ingredients added to appeal to said high price. Nevertheless, I often find myself disappointed after ordering a $15 drink. Courtesy of Tom’s Town Distilling Co. While Tom’s Town Distilling Co. offers a dozen or so seasonal cocktails at double-digit dollars, the French Blonde is one I’d order again and again. Balance is artfully achieved with this cocktail with its blend of Tom Town’s botanical gin, citrus, allspice, Lillet Blanc, elderflower liqueur, and fresh grapefruit juice. The Lillet Blanc pairs perfectly with the floral gin as it emphasizes the herbal notes in a light, crisp, and dry way while the elderflower liquor tames the acidic bitterness of the grapefruit. The soft pink drink is served in a beautiful, Instagram-worthy coupe glass. Grab some rosemary fries to pair with it, sink into one of those low comfy seats, and take advantage of the mood lighting for a dozen or so selfies. THE PITCH | June 2022 | THEPITCHKC.COM
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