Sleight of Hand

Sleight of Hand

KATA NORI IS ROLLING OUT HIGH-END SUSHI IN THE HEART OF THE CROSSROADS

By Jordan Baranowski

When it comes to sushi options, Kansas City has a number of strong contenders. Although everyone has a favorite, you can’t help but notice how many feel like a slightly different shade of the same color.

Kata Nori Hand Roll Bar, open now in the Crossroads Arts District, is looking to color outside of the lines.

Kata Nori looks to bring elegance and a more deliberate hand to the KC sushi scene. It all starts with a chef-driven mentality from executive chef/co-owner Anh Pham, whom the other owners (and seemingly everyone) refer to as “Bass.”

“The three of us grew up in the Kansas City area,” says majority owner Nam Phan, speaking of him and the other owners. “We talked a lot about the types of food that we wish we could see here—high-end sushi has always been near the top of the list. Bass worked at Uchi, a top sushi restaurant in Texas, and it got us thinking: Why not bring that style of sushi back home?”

Located inside the old Ron Rico space near Grinder’s and Brewer’s Alley, Kata Nori has a few aces up its sleeve to ensure a unique experience. The first is the way the space is laid out: You won’t be eating at tables here. Instead, the room is dominated by a 24-seat, U-shaped bar. There is a lounge area for the waitlist, where you can sip cocktails while other parties finish eating, but the bar-only dining lends itself to a more social environment.

Of course, the main draw of any restaurant is going to be the food. Kata Nori is also looking to set itself apart in that area. They specialize in hand rolls—a slight variation on what you’d typically expect at a sushi spot. Most sushi restaurants in KC create sushi rolls with a mat and then slice those rolls into bite-sized pieces. You pick them up with chopsticks, dunk them in soy sauce, and enjoy. Hand rolls are—you guessed it— rolled by hand rather than with a mat, and they are left intact. You are meant to pick them up and take bites of them.

When asked what makes their rolls unique, Bass is happy to share: “Our fish is definitely the star of the show, but we’re going all out with our ingredients to make every bite perfect. Our rice, and even the seaweed wrapping we use: It’s all a super-high quality to make for a better bite. Everything you order is seasoned and dressed to have a complete flavor profile—you won’t need to dip into any sauces or add anything in order to enjoy them.”

The team has put together a concise menu to start things off, and they really want to push things beyond the standard flavors (eel sauce, spicy mayo, etc.) you’ll find at other sushi spots in town. There are also a few items outside the hand roll options, like sashimi plates.

In addition to the top-notch food, Kata Nori also features a full bar program. They have started things out with standard cocktails, beer, sake, and wine but eventually plan on bringing in a bar manager to create specialty cocktails. As much as they are able, the team at Kata Nori wants to feature Japanese beers and spirits, and they want to try to bring in unique sake choices that are tough to find at other restaurants.

Kata Nori is currently only open for dinner service, but they plan on eventually opening for lunch hours. They recommend reservations with such a small space, but walk-ins are welcome. Like many restaurants, Monday is their only day off.

If you’ve found yourself wanting to expand your raw fish horizons, then Kata Nori Hand Roll Bar is just what you need to fill the tuna-shaped hole in your heart.

Co-owner Kyung Kim is excited about the possibilities: “We know sushi is a fun, shareable style of dining. We want to embrace that laid-back, social experience but also bring Kansas City sushi into an upscale, fine-dining atmosphere.”

We are absolutely here for it.