Bone Appétit

Bone Appétit

CALAVERAS STUNS WITH ITS GLAMOROUS FROZEN COCKTAIL BAR AND METALLIC DECOR

By Lauren Textor

Despite its name (meaning “skull”) and Day of the Dead theme, Calaveras in Lee’s Summit has little in common with the traditional, colorful Mexican restaurants elsewhere in Kansas City.

The restaurant is housed in a former mechanic’s garage, which retains its original 1928 ceiling. The floors have been polished and ground down, while the garage doors have been converted into windows that open to let in as much fresh air as possible. Cars used to pull out of the garage onto what is now the back patio and frozen bar.

Skulls are everywhere, of course—it would be hard to claim a connection to Día de los Muertos without them. But rather than brightly patterned sugar skulls, Calaveras boasts gold, silver, and copper-toned versions that sometimes double as bottle openers. The skulls beside the entrance are crafted by artisans and imported from Haiti.

Black and white marble bartop and herringbone backsplash complement the black lacquer walls and glass chandeliers. It’s sexy, glamorous, and classy—the passion project of co-owner Lanni Edwards.

Lanni co-owns Calaveras with her husband, Josh Edwards, and his father, Jeff. It’s right down the street from Smoke Brewing Co., their first restaurant.

“It’s different Mexican cuisine than most people are used to,” Lanni says. “It’s also a different look. It’s not typical, but I didn’t want it to be typical because there’s already a handful of Mexican restaurants in Lee’s Summit. They’ve honed in on their craft, and they do it well.”

Lanni and her husband also own a custom home-building company, which helped to foster her love of interior design and influenced her when it came to decorating. She also curated the playlist, which is a mix of sensual and upbeat pop. She had plenty of time to perfect all of the details, as the pandemic delayed the restaurant’s opening.

“It was two years, nine months, and 11 days between when we started construction to when we unlocked the doors,” Lanni says.

Luckily, Lanni was able to use the extra time to research Mexican culture and to help refine the Calaveras vision. Like Smoke Brewing Co., it is the Edwards’ love letter to Lee’s Summit.

“Even 25 years ago, Lee’s Summit looked really industrial,” Lanni says. “It’s changed so much with the love and attention that local businesses have put into it. It’s no different than Westport. When people find their area, and they love it, they go in and put their effort and money there, and you can feel that.”

Calaveras began with a simple conversation between Lanni and Josh about her desire for a frozen drink. Now, its frozen bar has more than half a dozen ways to give you a brain freeze, including the Lemon Drop Lifestyle (“looks like a slushie, tastes like a fancy way to justify day drinking”) and an icy key lime concoction that’s basically liquid pie.

The well-rounded food menu includes the popular (and hefty) Black & White Burrito ($16) with grilled flank steak, fluffy cilantro lime rice, and sautéed peppers and onions. It’s smothered in queso and a smooth mole that’s on the sweeter side. Pork belly is having its moment in KC, so it’s no surprise that it features on the menu with the Hangover Nachos ($11) along with cotija cheese, Mexican beer, and a fried egg. It’s listed as an entrée and not an appetizer, so you don’t need to feel guilty about digging in hands-first and breaking the yolk. The Mexican Dip ($19) is a generously meaty flank steak sandwich with pickled red onion, Oaxacan cheese, and chili aioli on a French baguette. This spin on a French dip sandwich is enhanced by a side of salty, creamy queso or Guajillo consommé, a robust broth with depth.

Due to their success as restauranteurs, the Edwards have partnered with EPIC Center KC in Independence, MO, to add a second Smoke Brewing Co. location within the pickleball, basketball, and soccer facility.