The Pro Chef - Edition 45

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PUBLICATION LICENSED BY DUBAI PRODUCTION CITY, DCCA

EDITION 45

GASTÓN ACURIO // HEINZ BECK // PIERRE MARCOLINI // JOSÉ AVILLEZ // TOM AIKENS


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EDITOR'S NOTE

Welcome EDITORIAL MANAGING EDITOR: Michael Jabri-Pickett mjp@cpimediagroup.com EDITOR: Sophie Voelzing sophie.voelzing@cpimediagroup.com ONLINE EDITOR: Glesni Holland glesni.holland@cpimediagroup.com ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER: Carol Owen SALES MANAGER: Liz Smyth prochef.sales@cpimediagroup.com MARKETING Amy Linney marketing@cpimediagroup.com DESIGN Froilan A. Cosgafa IV FOR OTHER ENQUIRIES, PLEASE VISIT: www.theprochefme.com FOUNDER CPI MEDIA GROUP Dominic De Sousa (1959-2015)

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Head Office: Media City, Building 4, Office G-08 Dubai, United Arab Emirates, PO Box 13700 Tel: +971 4 440 9100 Fax: +971 4 447 2409

Chefs, welcome to the 45th Edition of The Pro Chef Middle East. Inside this issue, we hear from a collection of culinary professionals raising the bar for the Middle East’s food scene. Famed for taking Portuguese classics and giving them a contemporary twist, chef José Avillez is at the forefront of Portugal’s food scene – namely for his two Michelin-starred restaurant, Belcanto in Lisbon. In his first move outside of Portugal, Avillez has opened doors at the new Mandarin Oriental Jumeira, Dubai with Tasca, and we hear all about it on page 24. We also catch up with chef Tom Aikens, who gives us the low-down on his three new restaurants at the Abu Dhabi EDITION, finding culinary inspiration and how to stand out as a chef. With three Michelin stars under his belt, over 30 years’ experience, and nine restaurants worldwide including Dubai-based Social by Heinz Beck at Waldorf Astoria The Palm Jumeirah, Heinz Beck talks tricks of the trade and the secrets to success in the kitchen on page 28. Discussing all things chocolate, we hear from world-famous pastry chef and chocolatier, Pierre Marcolini, who recently made his Dubai debut with La Maison Pierre Marcolini in Dubai Mall. We also look at the importance of professional training in the kitchen and why goal-setting and friendly competition is healthy for growth and development of chefs coming through the ranks, plus more. With summer being the quietest time of year for many restaurants in the Middle East, it’s quite surprising to still see so many new openings. Discussing the topic of over-saturation, CEO of Gates Hospitality Naim Maadad, offers an interesting opinion piece on page 8. He comments: “It is simple – we cannot have a situation where there are far too many restaurants and cafes for the population of Dubai and the tourist numbers coming in. The food and beverage industry should be treated in precisely the same way as taxis and public transport. Taxi licenses are handed out to cope with the number of people who use them – which means you have the perfect situation of taxis being used all the time and not doing nothing all day long.” Adding: “Everyone who owns and runs a restaurant or café wants the industry to develop but it is an industry that needs protecting and we need that to happen this summer. There is a fear that many new outlets will open after summer which will mean many of them and others already open cannot survive for long. To solve that the numbers of new openings should be monitored closely.” All that, plus the latest food news, inspirational pieces with industry-leading professionals, dates for your culinary diary and much more. Enjoy the read.

Email: info@cpimediagroup.com A publication licensed by Dubai Production City, DCCA

Till next time,

© Copyright 2019 CPI Media Group FZ LLC. All rights reserved. While the publishers have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of all information in this magazine, they will not be held responsible for any errors therein. www.cpimediagroup.com

Sophie Voelzing Editor

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CONTENTS

33 UP FRONT 6 NEWS BITES

Culinary news from the Middle East and beyond. From upcoming food events, to ingredient innovation, we cover it all.

14 GASTON ACCURIO

Famed Peruvian chef Gaston Accurio has annouced that he'll open a restaurant at the new Royal Atlantis in 2020.

16 MOVERS & SHAKERS

We follow the movements of chefs accross restaurant and hotel kitchens.

CHEFS 20 CHEF'S SPECIAL

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We speak to some of the UAE's top chefs to learn of their favourite dishes on the menus at their restaurants.


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24 JOSE AVILLEZ

Portugese chef Jose Avillez has opened Tasca at the new Mandarin Oriental Jumeira, Dubai. We find out more here.

28 HEINZ BECK

World-class chef Heinz Beck talks of his experiences and what it felt like to earn three Michelin-stars.

33 TOM AIKENS

Tom Aikens' recently launched three restaurants at the Abu Dhabi EDITION. He tells us about the new outlets here.

38 PIERRE MARCOLINI

Known for his innovation with chocolate, Pierre Marcolini tells of trends in confectionary.

42 THE KITCHEN BUSINESS

Culinary professionals discuss the importance of high-standard training and development in the kitchen.

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In Loving Memory of

DAVE REEDER February 7, 1950 – November 28, 2018

Former Editorial Director at CPI Media Group and Founder of The Pro Chef Middle East


Former Editorial Director at CPI Media Group and Founder of The Pro Chef Middle East, Dave Reeder sadly passed away on November 28, 2018 at the Royal Devon & Exeter Hospital, due to on-going health issues that he’d be battling for quite some time. Born in Bath, England on February 7, 1950, Dave’s life took him all over the world, namely to France, where he loved the cuisine, the sophisticated way of life and the country’s cultural and historic offering. Dave lived in Dubai for over 25 years and played a vital role in the growth and success of CPI Media Group with his sharp, creative mind and brilliant editorial skill. An employee of the group since its inception, Dave actually came up with the name ‘CPI’ – a fact he’d proudly tell all employees at the company. In recent years, Dave retired and returned to the UK for a slower pace of life at his late parents' house in Devon, where he delighted in the countryside’s fresh air, fresh produce from the village market and being able to join the local gin club – albeit disgruntled by the lack of nearby Japanese restaurants and quality sushi in his local supermarket. Equipped with a degree in philosophy and a librarianship diploma, Dave was a journalist his entire life. His first writing gig saw him head up a fantasy/horror magazine called Fantasy Macabre in 1980, and many in between, before focusing of culinary-led publications at CPI with The Pro Chef Middle East and BBC Good Food Middle East. Reflecting on life using the written word, Dave noted how he chose his career in a Facebook post from 2017. He said: “As a kid, I had no real idea what I wanted to do until one day, aged about 12, I was out shopping with my mother when there was this rush of fire engines and ambulances past us in the street. What was happening? It will be in the newspaper tomorrow, I was told, which gave me an idea – I wanted to be the person (I didn’t yet know what a ‘reporter’ was, preferring Batman to Superman comics) who found out and told people. “Years pass. At University I edit the student newspaper, my baptism of fire since I was greeted with an empty office and no instructions on what to do! In my final year, I somehow got a trainee job with the Liverpool Echo, just before it announced cutbacks! Not sure what to do and not really interested in the traditional route of cub reporter on a local paper, I got a job in a library… “Years pass. My route home from work in London’s East End to Camberwell in South London takes me past a small comics and SF bookshop and I start popping in realising, after a couple of visits, that it’s run by Dez Skinn, a name I recognise from the House of Hammer magazine I’d collected. One day I ask him why he didn’t revive it, only to be told that he’d like to but didn’t have an editor. An hour later in the pub next door, I was the editor! “I edited the magazine in my spare time for a while then gave up the library job, becoming a magazine editor for the rest of my career, with dozens of titles and more issues than I can remember to my name. “All thanks to a couple of fire engines…” A private man with a witty sense of humour, a passion for all things culinary and a way with words, Dave was happiest when interviewing chefs, enjoying a quality meal – preferably in France, accompanied by a crisp glass of white, exploring a new corner of the world, heavily engaging in a debate on Facebook, or with his head buried in a new book. Dave was one of a kind and he will be sorely missed by all at CPI. His legacy will continue to live on in the magazines that he helped to create, including The Pro Chef Middle East. Rest in peace, our colleague and dear friend.

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News bites UP FRONT /

Culinary news from the Middle East and beyond

Ross Shonhan’s Netsu debuts at Mandarin Oriental Jumeira, Dubai

Akira Back opens second Dubai restaurant

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Mandarin Oriental Jumeira, Dubai already has the distinction of being the first Mandarin Oriental resort within the Middle East and now it has another first under its belt: it has introduced the region to traditional Japanese cooking technique, Warayaki at its newlyopened restaurant, Netsu. Originating from the Kochi Prefecture in Shikoku, Netsu’s chefs grill food using dry straw instead of charcoal, giving it a unique flavour and taste. Meats and seafood are seared on the outside maintaining a very tender and juicy flesh on the inside. The concept is brought by acclaimed chef and restauranteur Ross Shonhan. The Australian-born chef is passionate about both Japan and the country’s cuisine and is widely credited for popularising Japan’s street food scene. For more information, 04-7772232.

Verve bar & brasserie launches in Media City

Located in the brandnew hotel Grand Plaza Mövenpick Media City, Verve bar & bistro has opened its doors. In the kitchen, Jorge Grande, Verve’s head chef, will work closely with locally well-known homegrown chef duo, Nick Alvis & Scott Price to serve modern European cuisine. The new bar & brasserie has lined up a variety of weekly events – the Friday Brunch will feature pork specialities and signature European dishes with live entertainment. Verve’s daily happy hour, which is from 4pm-8pm, makes it the newest watering hole in Dubai Media City for post-work tipples. Verve bar and brasserie will also have a business lunch on weekdays as well as weekly live entertainment. For more information, visit vervebarandbrasserie.ae.

Text SOPHIE VOELZING | Photographs SUPPLIED & SHUTTERSTOCK

In addition to Akira Back at W – The Palm, Dubai, which opened earlier this year, chef Akira Back has opened a second outpost, Paru, at Caesars Bluewaters Dubai. Paru is located on a stunning rooftop at Caesars, with views across two terraces, the new eatery offers an eclectic menu of modern Japanese dishes masterfully created by Back. Framing the bar and sushi counter, a modern mural – alluding to art as a form of love – was designed by Akira Back’s artist mother, adding a dramatic focal point for those perched beneath it. Guests can watch chefs at work while indulging in a selection of delicacies from the menu or finding comfort in a more chilled out meal in lounge seating located by the floor-to-ceiling windows. For those that want to dine ‘Japanese-style’, a tall central long table creates the perfect opportunity to people-watch or keep tracks on Paru’s Resident DJ. Having trained in Japan for many years, Back is known for bringing a sense of adventure to his culinary creations, taking traditional flavours and techniques from the region and giving them his own signature twist. Designed to deliver a sense of adventure in every bite, dishes include ‘Cool Share Plates’ such as Suzuki Ceviche (sea bass with caviar and soy yuzu ponzu) and Crispy Rice (spicy tuna on crispy rice, avocado, jalapeno, spring onion) as well as ‘Warm Share Plates’ including Hotate (scallop, baby eggplant, enoki mushroom, asparagus and truffle soy butter) and Popcorn Ebi (rock shrimp tempura, mango aioli). Also designed-to-be-shared, a selection of marinated and flame-grilled seafood and vegetable skewers will transport guests to the streets of Tokyo. For more information, visit caesars.com/dubai/restaurants/paru/.


Local chef Colin Clague partners with Coco Collection Executive chef of Rüya Dubai, Colin Clague has partnered with Coco Bodu Hithi on a special chef residency to bring Turkish cuisine to Maldivian shores. He will be creating two dinners for guests at the overwater seafood restaurant, Aqua, on August 11 and 15, as well as a special culinary masterclass on August 14. Colin’s exclusive 6-course tasting menu will be a reflection of his creations at Rüya Dubai, showcasing Anatolian flavours with a local twist. Colin got his first exposure to the disciplines and rigorous of the professional kitchen in London, all the while travelling extensively throughout Europe and the Middle East. Some of his notable achievements include being on the pre-opening team of the prestigious Burj Al Arab in Dubai, and executive chef of award-winning Japanese izakaya restaurant, Zuma in London and Dubai. Colin was also in charge of the pre-opening and opening of Michelin-starred restaurant Pollen by Chef Jason Atherton, before moving to Q’bara, where Colin won several awards, including The Pro Chef Middle East’s very own ‘Chef of the Year’. Reflecting on his culinary experience to date, Colin said: “I first moved to the Middle East to open the prestigious Burj al Arab hotel, then later in 2007 to open Zuma Dubai, and never left! After Zuma, one of the restaurants I opened was the award-winning Q’bara restaurant, a modern Levant restaurant, serving modern interpretations of Middle East classics. Through Q’bara I met my future business partners, Rasim and Umut Ozkanka, who said that this is exactly what they wanted to do with Turkish food, and that’s why we created Rüya. Our aim is to put Turkish food right up there with the other great food cultures of the world.” In 2018, Rüya expanded to open its sister restaurant in London. Through the years, Colin’s dedication and passion saw him acquired extensive industry experience that spans the globe. Chef Colin’s upcoming residency at Coco Bodu Hithi promises to showcase best quality ingredients to create sublime flavours executed with simplicity and finesse. For more information, visit cococollection.com/en/bodu_hithi.

Bulldozer Group opens GAIA, Scalini and Joel Robuchon pop-ups in Jeddah Luxury investment and hospitality brand management company, Bulldozer Group have opened three restaurant pop-ups in Jeddah as part of the Saudi Seasons festival. The popups will be located in separate venues across the city, and include L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, the brain-child of the late Michelin Star Chef, as well as resolutely Italian restaurant Scalini and home-grown Greek-Mediterranean estiatorio, GAIA. Named the “chef of the century” by the Gault et Millau cooking guide in 1990, Robuchon was renowned for his innovative and exquisite approach to French cuisine. Located in the Assila Hotel, the pop-up will incorporate signature aspects of the global Robuchon brand, including allowing customers to observe the preparation of their dishes and select the menu according to their appetite. Since opening in 2018, Greek-Mediterranean concept GAIA has fast become one of Dubai’s most successful restaurants, based on its beautiful blend of culture and cuisine. Created in partnership with celebrated Chef Izu Ani, the estiatorio incorporates each aspect of Greek culture entwined with modern tastes, preferences and ambiance. GAIA will be located on the picturesque Obhor waterfront throughout the Jeddah Season. As one of the first Italian restaurants to open in London in 1988, Scalini acted as a catalyst for the popularity of Italian cuisine in the UK. Following its expansion to Dubai almost thirty years after it was established, the brand will now journey to the Jeddah waterfront for an exciting pop-up. Guests can enjoy signature dishes such as the Veal Milanese, Lobster Linguine and the Paccheri with layers of black truffle. Evgeny Kuzin, Managing Partner and Co-Founder of Bulldozer Group said: “We are so proud to be able to play a part in such an exciting initiative, and to bring our expertise to help shape the tourism industry in Saudi Arabia. With our unique restaurant pop-ups, we aim to bring a world-class dining experience to Jeddah for the first time. We have tailored each project to suit the region, in order to provide excellent service, delectable cuisine and an enjoyable ambiance for residents and tourists alike.” Aimed at transforming the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia into one of the most important tourist destinations in the world, the Saudi Seasons showcases the unique charm and beauty of key cities in the region. The pop-ups will run till July 18, 2019.

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UP FRON T / N EW S B I T ES

New MD for JRG Dubai eyes ‘mission sustainability’ Local homegrown hospitality management company, JRG Dubai, has appointed Spencer Ayers as its new Managing Director. Ayers assumes the role after amassing three decades of senior-level food and beverage sector experience at the UAE’s Bateel International LLC, Le Pain Quotidien and AlShaya Group International, as well as various positions in the United Kingdom. Having been impressed by JRG Dubai’s recent successes in overhauling operations, future-proofing and consolidation, Ayers is eager to enhance the company’s fiscal success and brand evolution. “The ultimate priority is sustainability. In its purest form, success equals growth and we want to continue seeing growth across our existing concepts and the portfolio’s overall brand count. We have wonderful concepts that appeal to tourists or to residents, but we must endeavour

THREE NEW CHEFS AT BURJ AL ARAB JUMEIRAH With a focus on delivering culinary sensations like no other, the Burj Al Arab Jumeirah has announced the appointment of three new chefs to the group’s current collection of ten restaurants; Francky Semblat, Kim JoinieMaurin and Kasper Kurdahl. The news follows the recent milestone recruitment of Michael Ellis as Chief Culinary Officer, the former Managing Director of the Michelin Guide. Whilst Francky Semblat and Kim JoinieMaurin are both protégés of the famed Joël Robuchon’s school of excellence, Kasper Kurdahl worked alongside culinary legends like Roger Souvereyns. All three chefs add a unique touch to the dining scene at Burj Al Arab. The hotel’s Al Muntaha restaurant welcomes Chef Francky and Sky View restaurant Chef Kim, whilst Chef Kasper joins Al Mahara restaurant.

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to be even more attractive to domestic diners. To achieve that, we need agile and accessible concepts to safeguard our longevity and grow our resonance with the consumers we serve. Concepts that connect to our consumers will boost loyalty. When married with our operational experience and value offering, this enhanced loyalty will ensure our long-term financial sustainability,” said Ayers. With JRG Dubai currently operating 17 restaurants (4 of which are in the pipeline) and 11 brands - including casual dining concepts, The Noodle House, Trattoria Toscana and Perry & Blackwelder’s; premium or upscale venues such as Pierchic, Pai Thai and Segreto; as well as more recent launches in Flow at Jumeirah Emirates Towers, and The Duck Hook and Hillhouse Brasserie at Dubai Hills Golf Club, Ayers believes future additions to the portfolio are inevitable.

OPINION

Regulation of numbers would help Dubai’s F&B industry thrive long-term CEO of Gates Hospitality Naim Maadad gives an opinion on a topic that is constantly evolving in the Middle East Naim Maadad believes that Dubai’s restaurant and café industry needs a series of taxi-style regulations this summer – to prevent a potentially damaging oversupply of food and drink businesses in the city. This year more than 500 new restaurants and cafés have opened in Dubai with many more set to be launched after summer as owners look to take advantage of the returning population, new arrivals and cooler weather. But Naim thinks that unless the food and drink sector is regulated in terms of licenses there are worrying signs for 2019. “It is simple – we cannot have a situation where there are far too many restaurants and cafes for the population of Dubai and the tourist numbers coming in. The food and beverage industry should be treated in precisely the same way as taxis and public transport. Taxi licenses are handed out to cope with the number of people who use them – which means you have the perfect situation of taxis being used all the time and not doing nothing all day long,” Naim said. Adding: “Everyone who owns and runs a restaurant or café wants the industry to develop but it is an industry that needs protecting and we need that to happen this summer. There is a fear that many new outlets will open after summer which will mean many of them and others already open cannot survive for long. To solve that the numbers of new openings should be monitored closely.” The oversaturation of the Dubai restaurant and café sector has been widely discussed for several years – with the reporting of regular closures common. Naim concluded: “Dubai is rightly proud of being a food and drink leader and innovator on a global scale and that is something to be protected. What many of us want is the opportunity to thrive and grow in a market which is advanced in terms of which outlets it allows opening – where and when.”


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CLASS OF LOCAL CHEFS GRADUATE WITH FIRSTEVER ‘USA CHEESE SPECIALIST’ DESIGNATION

50 million meals expected to be served during Expo 2020

Fresh produce grown at the world’s largest vertical farm will be served to millions at Expo 2020 Dubai as part of a collaboration with Emirates Flight Catering (EKFC) to provide delicious and diverse culinary choices while showcasing the future of sustainable gastronomy. The tie-up will also introduce visitors to the world’s most tantalising up-and-coming cuisines at Expo Culinary Experience restaurants. Operated by EKFC, the eateries will embrace authentic recipes from participating countries – enabling diners to sample global flavours, ingredients and foodstuffs they may have never considered before stepping through the Expo 2020 gates. Gillian Hamburger, Senior Vice President – Programming at Expo 2020 Dubai, said: “With 50 million meals expected to be served during Expo 2020, both quality and sustainability are crucial to our aim of creating an exceptional – and delicious – World Expo, while also contributing to a more sustainable future for us all. Expo 2020 and Emirates Flight Catering share this strong commitment, and we look forward to exchanging knowledge and ideas.” Aligning with the United Nations’ Sustainable Gastronomy Day on 18 June, Expo 2020 and EKFC have signed a Memorandum of Understanding that sets out a shared vision for the largest event ever staged in the Arab world. This forms part of a broader collaboration which puts the planet first – with Expo 2020 and EKFC innovating together to advance Expo 2020’s Sustainability subtheme and create lasting positive environmental impacts. EKFC is set to launch a series of F&B locations across the Expo site’s three Thematic Districts. Its fine dining restaurants will feature rotating menus and a monthly star chef from its extensive network, while Grains and Greens will offer gourmet sandwiches, bowl creations and sharing platters. Meanwhile, La Patisserie will provide sweet treats and coffee in an elegant atmosphere, and Deli2Go will serve simple and fresh bites that can be enjoyed on the move. EKFC’s 130,000 square foot vertical farm, located next door to the Expo 2020 site in Dubai South, will produce 2,700 kilos of herbicide- and pesticide-free leafy greens every day, using 99 per cent less water than outdoor fields. A proportion of its output will go to Emirates-operated outlets and various other pavilions at Expo during the 173 days of the event.

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In June, 40 young local chefs graduated and received the first-ever designation as USA Cheese Specialist – a premiere, one-of-a-kind global cheese certification offered by the USA Cheese Guild. The USA Cheese Specialist Certification Program launched in partnership with the International Centre for Culinary Arts (ICCA) Dubai in the fall of 2018. The inaugural class is composed of chefs from 22 hotel properties in the UAE with students coming from 9 different countries (India, Indonesia, Pakistan, Portuguese, Syria, Kenya, Sri Lanka, Nepal and the Philippines). “As the leading global supplier of high-quality cheese, the United States is in a unique position to help educate the world about this versatile food and inspire new culinary creations,” said Angélique Hollister, executive director of the USA Cheese Guild. “We are proud to be investing in the future of these young chefs.” Designed for foodservice, this new global training consists of three, progressive certification levels (Associate, Intermediate and Advanced). Over the past few months, the chefs attended a series of hands-on training courses designed to instill knowledge about the depth and breadth of U.S. cheese. Starting with the basics, how cheese is made, categories, handling, etc., the education program gradually encompasses more technical applications as well as nutrition and how the more than 600 varieties of U.S. cheese can be used to capitalize on global trends. Visit ThinkUSAdairy.org for more information on U.S. cheese, nutrition and applications.

82,551 operators visit TUTTOFOOD 2019 The seventh edition of TUTTOFOOD, an increasingly international hub and global player for a strategic sector for the Italian economy such agrifood, closed on May 9, 2019. During this year’s edition, 82,551 operators were present, 21% of whom were foreigners from 143 countries, with 12 new entries (in particular from Central America, the Middle East and North Africa) who met the 3,079 Italian and international brands present at the event. The first 10 foreign countries of origin are, in order, the USA, Spain, France, Germany, the United Kingdom, China, Canada, the Benelux, Japan and the Russian Federation. The delegations of buyers were important and appreciated, also thanks to the fine tuning made with ITA/ICE Agenzia. There are more than 1,414 accredited Italian and foreign journalists and 325 bloggers. There were also large numbers of visitors to the more than 250 side events of the exhibition, such as those dedicated to the blockchain, retail and food intelligence. In the pavilions and in the stands, exhibitors displayed traditional products alongside new superfood products, in a context characterized by a strong return to the use and enhancement of valuable raw materials. An edition based on quality food and product innovation, but also on health, proper nutrition and sustainability. The appointment with the eighth edition of TUTTOFOOD is at fieramilano from 17 to 20 May 2021.


VOSTIZZA CURRANTS

REGULAR AND ORGANIC FARMING

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Excellent source of vitamins & minerals

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relatively low glycaemic index

路 Proven action against metabolic diseases

CAMPAIGN FINANCED WITH AID FROM THE EUROPEAN UNION AND GREECE


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DIARY DATES

‘Restaurants, Cafés & Lounges’ conference on October 7-8, 2019 The first edition of ‘Restaurants Cafés & Lounges’ Conference and Exhibition will be held on the 7th & 8th of October 2019, at Roda Al Bustan Hotel. The first of its kind event in the region is organized by Great Minds Event Management, with the goal of gathering a selected group of F&B and hospitality experts, to discuss improving efficiency and delivering an improved holistic experience to cater to the rapidly changing consumer behavior in the F&B sector, and to help restaurants, cafés, and lounge owners and F&B stakeholders to discover the latest strategies that can drive innovation across all business functions to survive and grow in an ever changing business environment. Leila Masinaei, The Managing Partner of Great Minds Event Management said: “We are organizing Restaurants Cafés & Lounges to bring together all the stakeholders who are involved in creating business models from menu selections, growth strategies, location mapping, to technology implementation, from across the Middle East & North Africa”.  “The number of F&B outlets in the region, with new concepts popping up daily, while the existing restaurants, cafés and lounges are actively scouting for new strategic locations to expand their business. However, we noticed in the last few years, the F&B sector has been struggling to catch up with the rapidly changing consumer trends, behavior and habits. Technology disrupting the market greatly and the economy’s effect on consumer’s spending patterns have made many previously successful businesses obsolete, losing their business and customers to raising competition. We saw the necessity to invite top experts and stakeholders to brainstorm new strategies to cope with the ever-changing consumer behavior and maximize the gains from technological advancements”, Masinaei added. Arvind Shekar, the Event’s Director, said “More than 250 attendees from 25 countries, mostly business owners, operation heads, chefs and experts in the F&B industry and hospitality sector will discuss the latest consumer trends, and growth strategies in the MENA market, and share their experiences and ideas during 10 hours of networking sessions, while enjoying the chance of meeting 40 Exhibitors, showcasing the latest technology trends and new innovative products”. “Restaurants, Cafés, & Lounges will honor 5 industry leaders with 5 awards, and the event will include a Chef Contest, in addition to 3 workshops, plus a Cocktail Zero Live demo bar: a concept in which ICCA Dubai in partnership with Alembic will showcase a whole range of non-alcoholic innovative drinks.” added Shekar. The event’s activities will include onstage celebrity chef interviews with Chef Thomas A. Gugler, President, World Association of Chef’ Societies, and Chef Manal Al Alem “The Queen of Arabian Kitchen”, in addition to Workshops and Emerging brands spotlight sessions. For registration, visit restaurantscafeslounges.com.

Butter of Europe welcomes 4,000 at Horeca Lebanon 2019 CNIEL - the French dairy board, and the European Union were back in Beirut recently for the Butter of Europe campaign, aiming at building awareness on the use, benefits and gastronomic value of European butter, and more especially French butter. A ‘Butter Kitchen’ was featured on Horeca Trade show, the essential meeting place for Hospitality and Foodservice professionals. During the four-day exhibition, two renowned Chefs, Charles Soussin from France and Sleiman Khawand from Lebanon created recipes on the stand to offer visitors the chance to taste the best of butter from Europe. Both Chefs demonstrate the superiority of European gastronomic butter, using it in different ways, Chef Sleiman conceived traditional Lebanese recipes, where butter is an essential ingredient in sweet and savoury recipes like pistachios maamoul

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or chickpea fatteh with butter. From his side, Chef Charles was using butter in classic French preparations like salted caramel with fruits and also realised some inventive flavoured butters. Professionals visiting the stand were able to try a seaweed and curcuma butter as well as a black truffle butter. In total, more than 4,000 persons visited the Butter Kitchen during the exhibition and not only enjoyed the Chefs recipes but also received the Butter of Europe recipe book.

UAE to follow UK’s lead in adoption of “free-from” products Free-from is currently one of the hottest trends in the global food industry. Ymakan FZ LLC is pleased to be working with the Department for International Trade (DIT) and UK companies to help them bring more of these products to the Middle East. The UK market more than doubled in value from 2012 and was estimated to be worth £718m by 2017. It is a category that is growing in maturity as manufacturers respond to increases in demand with new and innovative products. Free-from products in the UK can be found across different product categories from store-cupboard to delicious treats and they also respond to different allergens from gluten and lactose to more specialist requirements such as FODMAPS friendly ingredients. The growth in demand for these products has been attributed to both medical concerns and evolving lifestyle choices, particularly the growing interest in vegan diets, which is helping to attract new users to the dairy-free segment. Brands including Booja Booja Dairy Free Chocolates, Ugo Thrice Pumpkin and Sage Raviolini, and La Cremerie Basil and Rice Yogurt were recently honoured in the UK’s Free-From Food Awards, and have been major players in contributing to this growth. Here in the UAE, we’re seeing a similar increase in demand. The UK’s Department for International Trade (DIT) works with many UKbased manufacturers who have shown an interest in launching their free-from product ranges in the UAE, and recently brought out a large delegation of companies to Gulfood earlier this year to assess the market possibilities. Sleaford Quality Foods are a new company in the free-from market, who are launching a new ethical ‘Our Earth’ range. The UK-based crosscategory supplier of multiple packaged foods is set to launch its new ‘Our Earth’ brand in a move that will combine sustainability, convenience and great taste. The initial thirteen Our Earth products will be made at SQF’s state-of-the-art manufacturing site in Lincolnshire, UK, and will feature a range of ontrend flavours, all made with natural halal certified ingredients. The range will also feature six free-from products, all of which are gluten-free. Head of Export at SQF Anthony Ware said, “What we have produced with ‘Our Earth’ is the goal for any progressive business; a range that has great taste, but with minimal waste. Housed in sustainable packaging, ‘Our Earth’ shows SQF to be a company with a true social conscience as the demand from consumers for more environmentally-friendly, ethical products gather pace. “We look forward to the launch of the ‘Our Earth’ range and would welcome enquiries from across the world.” If you would like any information on UK companies with free-from products, contact Adil Khan in the DIT team at the British Embassy Dubai on adil.khan@fco.gov.uk


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UP FRON T / N EW S

Famed Peruvian chef Gastón Acurio has revealed the 2020 launch of La Mar at The Royal Atlantis Resort & Residences, Dubai. La Mar joins a star-studded culinary line-up set for the soon-to-open property, including Spanish tapas restaurant Jaleo by chef José Andrés and Dinner by Heston Blumenthal.

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Photographs SUPPLIED

Gastón Acurio to make Dubai debut with La Mar

ffering diners the chance to explore the authentic and diverse flavours of Peruvian gastronomy, La Mar by chef Gastón Acurio is slated to open late 2020 at the new Royal Atlantis Resort & Residences, Dubai. The restaurant is set to feature contemporary design and elegant interiors, which will provide the backdrop for La Mar’s signature cebiche, freshly grilled anticuchos and pisco-led cocktails. Synonymous with his country’s cuisine and largely responsible for having successfully brought the nation's fare to the global stage, Gastón Acurio opened his first restaurant in 1994 and began transforming Lima into the culinary capital of South America. Now with over 50 restaurants worldwide, including three in the USA,


Acurio has won the hearts and stomachs of worldwide food lovers with his unparalleled cebiche, unique Peking-style guinea pig pancake, and desserts inspired by his childhood. In 2018 Acurio was awarded The Diners Club Lifetime Achievement Award, regarded as one of the most prestigious accolades in the world of gastronomy. Located at mezzanine lobby level in The Royal Atlantis Resort and Residences, La Mar by Gastón Acurio will be the first traditional cebichería in Dubai, welcoming guests to an intimate space devoted to the South American tradition of cebiche and pisco sour. With a casual elegance and easy-going vibe, the signature features of La Mar will include an open kitchen, cebiche bar and an anticucho grill, where Acurio’s team of expert chefs will prepare marinated fish as well as tiraditos, causas and marinated anticucho skewers. La Mar’s menu will deep dive into traditional Peruvian seafood dishes, anchored by Acurio’s celebrated Peruvian cebiche, which is made to order and combines the freshest, sustainable catch with a leche de tigre citrus-based marinade of lime and ají peppers. Additional signature fare will include a selection of sharable causas; mashed potato dumplings topped with seafood, tiraditos; a Peruvian style of sashimi and anticucho, comprised of popular Peruvian street food including chicken thighs, veal heart and octopus in potato cream. The long list of signatures will also include ribeye chimichurri, braised, slow cooked Asado cheeks and crispy pork shank. To complete the experience, La Mar will be home to a comprehensive cocktail programme including Peruvian classics infused with Pisco, a Peruvian grape brandy, and cocktails with a Peruvian twist. Inspired by the design of a ‘Fisherman’s Wharf’, guests will be greeted with a high cane ceiling upon entry with natural light spilling in from floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the Palm Island via a large open terrace. Natural materials such as iron, cement, wood and stone complement a warm colour palette of marine blues, green, sandy grey and beige evoking a sense of the ocean at every turn. Handcrafted and locally sourced tableware will emulate rock, coral, the seabed and shimmering fish scales. Believing that chefs, cooks and kitchen staff are “the best weapons” to bring about change, Acurio’s commitment to sustainability is commendable. All staff are trained to contribute towards Acurio’s

“The best restaurants and the most renowned chefs can be found in Dubai sharing their proposals and concepts with cosmopolitan diners who value and enjoy gastronomy as an activity that unites people and cultures.” mission to educate diners on where their food is coming from and all fish served in La Mar will be sustainably sourced to alleviate over-exploited fish species. Diners will be invited to enjoy fresh, daily sourced produce with which Acurio challenges his team to dream big with to create dishes that are ever changing and adaptable to what can be sourced in that day. Gastón Acurio commented: “Dubai is perhaps one of the cities with the greatest gastronomic activity in the world. The best restaurants and the most renowned chefs can be found in Dubai sharing their proposals and concepts with cosmopolitan diners who value and enjoy gastronomy as an activity that unites people and cultures. In that sense, it is an honor to be present with a Peruvian culinary embassy, and join the different Peruvian restaurants that today represent us in Dubai. To do it in such an important and commanding place as The Royal Atlantis Resort & Residences is simply the best way to do it”. Acurio’s career as a chef began in 1989 in Madrid, when he abandoned a law degree in favour of cooking school. A few years later, he moved to Paris to continue his training at Le Cordon Bleu and there he met his future wife, the German-born pastry chef Astrid Gutsche, with whom he founded his flagship restaurant, Astrid y Gastón, in Lima in 1994. Renowned for his daring experiments using local ingredients, techniques and recipes, Acurio kicked off a new trend for Peruvian gastronomy that would explode onto the global scene a couple of decades later, with Acurio travelling the world to spread the word.

Since opening his eponymous destination with Gutsche, Acurio has founded multiple restaurant brands including La Mar, Tanta, Panchita, Chicha and Madam Tusan, with additional branches of Astrid y Gastón and La Mar outside Peru. His flagship restaurant won the No.1 spot on the inaugural Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2013 and has held a place on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list since 2011.

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HAMZEH SAFFAF MAHMOUD, EXECUTIVE CHEF

SLIM BEN CHAHLA, CHEF DE CUISINE

The H Dubai Hotel

Bord Eau, Shangri-La Hotel, Qaryat Al Beri, Abu Dhabi

Hamzeh Saffaf Mahmoud has joined The H Dubai Hotel as the new executive chef, looking after all operations for the hotel’s main kitchen. Chef Hamzeh joins from Rotana Hotels, with over 11 years of experience in UAE market. He started his culinary journey in 2008 with Le Meridien Hotel Dubai, where he held the positon of Arabic sous chef. After three years, he joined Rotana Hotels as chef de cuisine, where he was in charge of the Oriental kitchen as well as strategic planning and execution for hotel’s catering establishments. In 2014, Hamzeh was promoted to executive sous chef and head of banquets where his focus was more on developing the team and providing the highest service quality across the restaurants. After three years of excelling in his role, Hamzeh received his biggest promotion up to date, as he took on the position of executive chef for Rotana Hotels. Commenting on Hamzeh’s appointment, The H Hotel’s GM said: “We are excited to have Chef Hamzeh join us and leading the culinary team. His ample of experience in the market combined with his passion and drive make him a fantastic asset to the team.”

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Slim Ben Chahla has taken the reins of the kitchen at French restaurant, Bord Eau. The Frenchman brings more than 24 years of culinary experience to the restaurant. As part of his role as chef de cuisine, chef Slim will introduce ten of his signature dishes. To be launched one at a time every week, the selection of dishes includes classics with a contemporary twist like Foie Gras Terrine, Grilled Scallops with Baby Vegetables and Clam Sauce, Slow-Cooked Chicken Breast with Crayfish Butter, Wagyu Beef Tenderloin with Conchiglioni Pasta and Lamb Shank with Green Risotto. Born in Hautes-Alpes, France, chef Slim has worked at the helm of top kitchens around the world, supporting chefs at Michelin restaurants like Restaurant La Rotonde at the Casino Le Lyon Vert, Le Meurice with Yannick Alléno, George V and Restaurant des Rois at La Reserve de Beaulieu. This was followed by an 11-year stint in Morocco, where he took on more leadership roles, working as a vital part of the launch team of leading hotels, restaurants and resorts, before returning to France for a remarkable gastronomic season at Courchevel.

TText SOPHIE VOELZING | Photographs SUPPLIED

UP FRON T / MOV ERS & SHAK ER S


ANDREW YEO, CORPORATE EXECUTIVE CHEF

ALEX MOSER, EXECUTIVE CHEF Park Hyatt Dubai

Bistro Des Arts, Dubai Marina

Hakkasan Group

Hakkasan Group has revealed the addition of a new executive chef to its corporate roster. Corporate executive chef Andrew Yeo is responsible for culinary worldwide of the Cantonese brands found within the Asian Luxury collection, including Hakkasan, Yauatcha, and Ling Ling. Chef Yeo brings over 20 years of experience and training to this new role as corporate executive chef. Most recently, chef Yeo served as executive chef of The Miami Beach EDITION, where he oversaw all onsite restaurants including Matador Room, Market and Tropicale. Previously, chef Yeo held roles as an executive chef of The RitzCarlton Company, overseeing the Boston Commons and Amelia Island properties. Over the course of his career, he has helped launch several hotels, overseeing the culinary direction at The Shanghai EDITION and Ritz-Carlton properties in Montreal, Hong Kong and Dove Mountain. “I’m incredibly excited to join Hakkasan Group, which has been recognised all over the world for its artful interpretations of Chinese cuisine,” says Chef Yeo. “I look forward to working with the talented culinary creatives at the company to bring our global restaurants to even greater heights.”

ANASTASIOS KARAGIANNIDIS, EXECUTIVE CHEF

Park Hyatt Dubai has welcomed Alex Moser as its new executive chef. Born in Germany, Alex joins Park Hyatt Dubai with over 19 years of experience, collated across different Hyatt properties around the world. Chef Alex began his journey in 1999 as a kitchen apprentice at Grand Hyatt Berlin, where he learned the foundations of culinary art. After moving to Dubai in 2003 Alex continued gathering knowledge and learning new techniques across the brand at properties including Grand Hyatt Dubai, Park Hyatt Dubai and Hyatt Regency Dubai. In 2008, Alex pursued his gastronomic adventure abroad, moving to Russia to gain international experience. In his most recent position at Andaz Delhi, Alex supervised the food and beverage needs of guests across 401 rooms and four food and beverage outlets, where he developed menus featuring an array of cuisines from modern European flavours to succulent Cantonese feasts. Commenting on his new appointment, Alex said: “I’m thrilled to return to Park Hyatt Dubai as executive chef. I look forward to working with all the respective teams and the outstanding restaurant portfolio the property boasts. The launch of The Promenade has reaffirmed Park Hyatt Dubai’s status as a key player in the city’s evolving food and beverage industry and I’m excited to further develop the offers across all outlets.”

Parisian restaurant in Dubai Marina, Bistro Des Arts, has welcomed Anastasios Karagiannidis as its new executive chef. Anastasios Karagiannidis, a Greek native, built his career through a number of senior positions at restaurants and hotels in Europe, having trained under famous French chef, Daniel Boulud, who is known for his Michelin starred restaurants. Anastasios headed the kitchen at Bar Boulud in Mandarin Oriental, London. Now heading up the culinary team at Bistro Des Arts and overseeing day-to-day operations in the kitchen, chef Anastasios will work to develop recipes and innovative menus at Bistro Des Arts. Chef Anastasios is a passionate foodie who aims to satisfy palettes by focusing on fresh ingredients and simple yet innovative creations. In his new capacity, he will showcase his intensive knowledge on culinary and proficient cooking skills, ensuring an efficient and profitable kitchen is operated as well as sourcing the finest ingredients and creating new and mouthwatering dishes for guests to enjoy.

DAMIEN DUVIAU, EXECUTIVE CHEF Nobu Dubai, Atlantis, The Palm

Atlantis, The Palm has appointed Damien Duviau as the new executive chef of Nobu Dubai. Duviau has honed his skills for almost 20 years in some of the finest Michelinstarred restaurants across the world and his appointment marks an exciting time for the Japanese venue at Atlantis. Duviau will lead a team of more than 60 dedicated staff at Nobu, the restaurant brand created by Japanese chef Nobu Matsuhisa. French national Duviau is making a return to the Dubai restaurant, having previously served as sous chef between 2010 and 2013. He then took up the role of executive chef at Nobu Moscow and sister branch Nobu Crocus City, also in Moscow, Russia, before returning to Dubai. Duviau’s career has seen him work in high profile restaurants across the world after starting out as commis chef at Michelinstarred Mas Candille Restaurant in Mougins, France in 2004. A move to London’s plush 1 Lombard Street restaurant came next and Duviau spent two years as chef de partie. In 2008, he moved to Dubai to take up the role of sous chef at One & Only Royal Mirage. Then, after an enjoyable five-year stint in the Russian city, Duviau has now returned to Nobu at Atlantis, The Palm.

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CH E FS / PLATE UP

MAXIME LE VAN

CHEF DE CUISINE, DRIFT BEACH DUBAI

ON MENUS ES CURRENTLY THE BEST DISH BAI – AS DU S ACROSS AT RESTAURANT LVES SE EM S TH CHOSEN BY CHEF

MILAD ANTONIOS DAGHER SENIOR SOUS CHEF, ESHAK DUBAI, CITY WALK

Lamb shank with quinoa, priced at Dhs110

What makes this dish such a stand-out dish? This is my favourite dish because the lamb is really tender and juicy and I think it is quite unique to pair it with quinoa. Quinoa is quite popular with those who want to not eat as many starchy carbs, so this dish is also quite popular amongst our diners too.

Where do you source the ingredients from for this dish? We get as many ingredients for this dish and for Eshak from the local market around the GCC region.

What’s your favourite dish on DRIFT’s menu? Risotto De St Jacque – black venere shellfish risotto with king scallops, cuttlefish, and gremolata.

Tell us about the dish… This is a risotto dish made with wholegrain venere rice that stays firm after cooking. We cook the rice in a very aromatic broth made from a variety of seafood and vegetable stocks, as well as fresh ink extracted from the cuttlefish we use for the dish. The risotto is topped with beautiful seared fresh king scallops, finely sliced cuttlefish, and garnished with some gremolata made with chopped parsley, garlic oil and lemon juice.

What makes this dish such a stand-out dish? I love this dish because it is full of balance and contrast; visually striking with the contrast of deep black from the rice and pearl white from the seafood; flavour-wise, it's a perfect balance between the earthy and intense seafood notes of the rice, the very sweet taste of the scallops, and cuttlefish, and the freshness and acidity coming from the gremolata.

Where do you source the ingredients from for this dish? The venere rice comes from Italy, the king scallops are shipped from Brittany in France, and the cuttlefish is locally-sourced from the sea in Oman.

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Text SOPHIE VOELZING | Photography SUPPLIED

What’s your favourite dish on Eshak’s menu?


MIGUEL HUELAMO

EXECUTIVE CHEF, MORIMOTO DUBAI

BRIAN VOELZING

GROUP EXECUTIVE CHEF, THE LOFT AT DUBAI OPERA / LINCOLN HOSPITALITY

What’s your favourite dish on Morimoto’s menu? Chef's sushi combo, priced at Dhs165 (small size)

Tell us about the dish… I selected our chef's sushi combo as my favourite because this dish allows us to play with seasonal products we buy from Japan. This dish also gives us the flexibility to customise it to our guests liking – it’s also really beautiful.

What makes this dish such a stand-out dish? For the combos, which come in three sizes, our team of sushi chefs can showcase their skills and aesthetic sense. The quality of our rice and the care we take polishing it, washing it and seasoning it really provides the base for the other ingredients to shine. Chef Morimoto's preferred style of sushi making is to use very delicate contact between the chef's hands and the rice so we don't press and destroy the rice’s natural fluffiness. This makes our sushi special and it requires a more skillful chef to work this way.

Where do you source the ingredients from for this dish? Our rice is Japanese short grain, we always purchase the rice from the last crop to ensure the natural sweetness of the rice is present. Our rice vinegar also comes from Japan. For our seafood we use mainly fish air-flown from Tokyo's new Toyosu fish market, the exceptions are our salmon that we source from Scotland's finest brands and when the season is right we also love to support local producers and use local (Omani mainly) fresh squid, we aim to showcase indigenous ingredients in our menu.

What’s your favourite dish on The Loft’s menu? Baked oysters, priced at Dhs205

Tell us about the dish… I love the simplicity of our baked oysters, and the flavours this dish offers – it’s always an instant hit with oyster lovers. We embolden this dish with an indulgent reduction of white wine, parmesan, spinach, and herbs. Once baked in their shells, the oysters are drizzled with a cream sauce and dusted with gruyere cheese and paprika-spiced sourdough crumbs.

What makes this dish such a stand-out dish? Its origin, simplicity, and bold flavours. This dish is indulgent and a real treat to enjoy. It also makes for a great introductory to oysters for those diners who aren’t so keen on the raw texture of uncooked oysters.

Where do you source the ingredients from for this dish? We use Kelly Oysters from Ireland for this dish, which I feel work perfectly. I was recently fortunate enough to visit this oyster farm in Ireland, and can vouch for the high quality of this product.

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CH E FS / PLATE UP

DUAYNE DE WAAL

EXECUTIVE CHEF, DISTILLERY, SOUK AL MANZIL

FEDERICO TERESI

HEAD CHEF, LEONARDO, STELLA DI MARE

What’s your favourite dish on Distillery’s menu? Slow braised beef short rib, priced at Dhs155

Tell us about the dish… This is a dish I love because it combines the heartiness of a braised short rib with a spicy quinoa madrouba. It's a twist on the traditional and soulful Yemeni dish. Real comfort food, every bite makes you want more.

What makes this dish such a stand-out dish? This dish, in a way, is like Dubai. A melting pot of global cultures. French-style braised short rib meets Yemeni-inspired madrouba and are tied together with Argentinean chimichurri. The fresh ingredients and rich Middle Eastern spices pair extremely well together.

Where do you source the ingredients from for this dish? The premium beef flies in from Australia, the quinoa is grown in Peru, the spices trickle in from across Asia, and the herbs are local.

What’s your favourite dish on Leonardo ’s menu? Cacio e pepe Tell us about the dish… My favourite dish is the classic cacio e pepe. What makes this dish such a stand-out dish? This dish is such a stand-out dish on our menu because it represents the simplicity and the tradition of my city, Roma in Italy. Cacio e Pepe shines the most due to the combination of simple ingredients, fresh pasta, parmesan cheese, pecorino cheese, black pepper, and crispy bacon, that results to this sophisticated, elegance on a plate. Where do you source the ingredients from for this dish? Most of our ingredients are selected from Italian supplier like the Pecorino Romano.

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MANSOUR MEMARIAN

DIRECTOR OF CULINARY & F&B, PALAZZO VERSACE DUBAI

BHARAT TALWAR

EXECUTIVE CHEF, TAIKUN DUBAI

Kuku sabzi

What’s your favourite dish on Taikun’s menu?

Tell us about the dish…

Baked avocado and black cod, priced at Dhs115

Kuku Sabzi is an ancient dish and one of the most authentic Persian plates. It is mostly served during the Persian New Year’s celebration. There is no family celebrating Nowruz without kuku sabzi.

Tell us about the dish…

What’s your favourite dish on Enigma’s menu?

What makes this dish such a stand-out dish? It is a simple vegetarian dish, but full of flavours and very complex. Diverse fresh herbs are mixed with saffron, barberries, candied walnuts and baked into a tortilla form. Each bite of kuku sabzi is an explosion of flavours for the palate.

Where do you source the ingredients from for this dish? We source the ingredients as much as possible locally, but the saffron, the barberries and the walnuts comes from Persia.

The baked black cod and avocado is one of my signature creations on the menu. My favourite thing about it is how perfectly the flavours blend together in this simple yet complex dish. The dish is a crowd favourite too, no matter which part of the world the guest hails from. The dish is bursting with flavours. The shimeji mushroom gives it a delicate umami flavour. This is further complemented by unagi sauce. The asparagus and snow peas give it a subtle crunch. Finally, the avocado adds an indulgent creamy texture when paired with the black cod.

What makes this dish such a stand-out dish? Cod is notoriously a challenging fish to work with. The secret marinades and seasoning that Taikun uses make it one of the best performing dishes on our menu. Adding more drama to the dish, the grand finale happens at the table. The cooking process is wrapped up in front of the guests. The entire mix is scooped into an avocado shell. It is then nestled on an orange slice and flamed on the table. Everything about this dish makes it a notable masterpiece.

Where do you source the ingredients from for this dish? Taikun procures only the finest and freshest ingredients from around the globe. We used the famed Mexican hass avocado and Canadian black cod (the cold Pacific waters ensure high-quality cod). The shimeji mushrooms are top of the line - sourced from Japan, Dutch asparagus, and home-barbecued unagi is the cherry on top.

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CH E FS / PLATE UP

MARCO LEGITTIMO

CHEF DE CUISINE, VANITAS, PALAZZO VERSACE DUBAI

SUDQI NADDAF

EXECUTIVE CHEF, KEMPINSKI HOTEL MALL OF THE EMIRATES

What’s your favourite dish on Vanitas’ menu? Tagliolino con crema di pistacchi, acqua di cappero e tartare di tonno, priced at Dhs 115

Tell us about the dish… I wanted to create a plate full of flavours and to have at the same time an unusual combination of ingredients and textures. I often get my inspiration from the street markets in my home country, Italy, walking around all the food stalls, visualising all the recipes I want to create. Tagliolino con crema di pistacchi, acqua di cappero e tartare di tonno is a clean dish, no frills, just fresh ingredients. I firstly made it in a canapé size and I used tuna but it’s matching perfectly with violet prawns from Gallipoli, Italy or tub gurnard.

What makes this dish such a stand-out dish? The taste, which is enhanced with a new combination of fat (pistachio), acid (lemon/ginger), savoury aromatic (capers), and freshness (tuna). The combination of these ingredients will give a blast of sensations.

Where do you source the ingredients from for this dish? Fresh pasta homemade with semola from Italy, pistachio and capers from Sicily, and tuna from Maldives.

What’s your favourite dish on Olea ’s menu? Chicken magloba from Olea restaurant. Tell us about the dish… Chicken Magloba as it is one of the most must-try dishes in any Levantine home, it’s served on every table in the pot that it has been cooked in and the show of flipping it happens next to the guest so it’s an experience. What makes this dish such a stand-out dish? It’s my mother’s recipe and she is the one who taught me how to do it, I haven't learnt this dish from anywhere else as I need to stay authentic to my grandma’s taste. Where do you source the ingredients from for this dish? Luckily, all ingredients for this dish can be sourced locally here in Dubai.

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CH E FS / FACE TO FACE

SABORES DE PORTUGAL

Famed for taking Portuguese classics and giving them a contemporary twist, chef José Avillez is at the forefront of Portugal’s food scene – namely for his two Michelin-starred restaurant, Belcanto in Lisbon. In his first move outside of Portugal, Avillez has opened doors at the new Mandarin Oriental Jumeira, Dubai with Tasca. While in town for the opening, we caught up with him to hear more…

By SOPHIE VOELZING

Looking at your background, how did you get started as a chef? Looking back, I’ve had a passion for food ever since I was a child. In fact, it was actually a passion for eating. I started cooking at home when I was seven. I used to bake with my sister, and we sold the cakes to family, friends and neighbours. I went to college to study Business Communications. When I signed up for it, I wasn’t aware that my future would involve working in a kitchen, but at the end of my studies, my interest for cuisine started to grow and I had the

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opportunity to visit a professional kitchen. My heart began to race and I felt a whirlwind of emotions. At that moment, I realised I had found my way. After that, I went on several trips, did training courses and internships as a chef. I learned at the hand of Antoine Westermann at Fortaleza do Guincho, at Alain Ducasse’s school, in Éric Fréchon’s kitchen at the Bristol Hotel, and at the renowned El Bulli, a step that truly changed my career. It changed my life.

Dubai is lacking in Portuguese restaurants, so we’re really excited to hear about Tasca’s opening! Tell us about the restaurant and its concept… The new restaurant Tasca, at Mandarin Oriental Jumeira, Dubai is inspired by a traditional Portuguese restaurant concept – a tasca, which is a typical casual Portuguese eatery, with authentic food and drinks. However, Tasca adds a twist, because it offers a contemporary and pulsating dining experience. We’ll be serving Portuguese flavours with a contemporary twist in a vibrant setting, overlooking the sweeping ocean on one side and Dubai’s skyline on the other.

Is the menu at Tasca inspired by a certain area of Portugal, such as the Algarve’s cuisine, or is it influenced from all areas of the country? Tasca offers rich and varied contemporary Portuguese cuisine from across the region. The menu offers some of Portugal’s best flavours and products. I believe Portugal has one of the best cuisines in the world, with the world’s best fish and seafood. Tasca offers the opportunity to savour them. It’s a unique, unmissable experience.

TPhotographs SUPPLIED

P

ortuguese chef José Avillez has made his Middle Eastern debut with the opening of Tasca at Mandarin Oriental Jumeira, Dubai – representing his first international venture. He has several restaurants in Lisbon and Porto, each with a different concept, but all expressing his passion for cuisine. Avillez is most well-known for his two Michelin-starred Belcanto in Lisbon. Offering true flavours of Portugal, Tasca in Dubai takes inspiration from a traditional Portuguese eatery, ‘tasca’, serving genuine food and drinks but with a contemporary twist. With a menu based on a sharing concept, Tasca takes guests on a culinary journey across the rich and varied country. Tasca is a dining destination that makes for a lively night out, combining authentic dishes, eye-catching design, and an eclectic atmosphere. The fullyimmersive experience includes live demonstrations at both the bar and the kitchen as chefs and bartenders work together to develop inventive culinary and mixology creations. Here, chef Avillez tells more…


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CH E FS / FACE TO FACE

“It’s my first restaurant outside of Portugal and presents a responsibility, a challenge and an opportunity to learn, not just for me, but also for my team. Additionally, it provides me an opportunity to promote Portugal and Portuguese gastronomy.” What attracted you to open a restaurant in Dubai?

What type of ingredients are you sourcing from Portugal for Tasca?

The invitation came from the Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group. I’m happy and proud to have received this invitation. It’s my first restaurant outside of Portugal and presents a responsibility, a challenge and an opportunity to learn, not just for me, but also for my team. Additionally, it provides me an opportunity to promote Portugal and Portuguese gastronomy, and that makes me very excited.

The ingredients we are bringing in from Portugal include giant red shrimp, blue lobster, seabass, coastal prawns and clams. I believe Portugal has the best fish and seafood in the world.

What are some of the traditional Portuguese dishes found on Tasca’s menu? Some of the traditional Portuguese dishes that can be found on Tasca’s menu are Bulhão Pato clams, Gomes de Sá codfish, Lagareiro octopus, grilled giant red shrimp, grilled blue lobster, prawns with garlic and chili, steak with an egg on top, olive oil custard pudding. They are all plated in a contemporary style but are as full-flavoured as the traditional recipes.

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Are there any Portuguese ingredients that you’d like to have on the menu, but haven’t been able to source here? Yes, Portuguese vegetables.

What trends and dining behaviours are you witnessing coming out of Lisbon at the moment? The last 15 to 20 years have built a contemporary Lisbon. Some investments were made to present Lisbon as a multicultural European capital and the urban environment was transformed. There are significant signs of modernisation but the historic charm has been preserved. Lisbon is a seductively stylish revitalised city

and is a great destination for food lovers. We have very high-quality products: wine, cheese, olive oil, meat, fish and seafood, and Portuguese cuisine is tremendously rich and varied. This has transformed Portugal's gastronomic scenario in a very interesting way. Today we have a much more diverse offer than we had 10 years ago.

What sets Portuguese cuisine aside from other Mediterranean cuisines? Portuguese cuisine is tremendously rich and diverse. The differentiating aspect of our cuisine has to do with the cultural exchanges that happened in our Age of Discovery. Those ingredients and techniques from other continents influenced and enriched our cuisine. In addition to that, Portugal has a wide variety of landforms, climates and soil types. Moreover, we have a long coastline, we have highlands in the north of Portugal, and the mid-coastal region consists of dunes and pine tree forests. In Southern Portugal, more specifically Alentejo, we find plains. Each region has different, yet amazing products: wines, cheese varieties, bread types, olive oils, produce, spices, herbs, meat, fish and shellfish. The tradition, the ingredients, the flavours, the influences are always on my mind. I’m very proud of our amazing cuisine. For more information about José Avillez, visit joseavillez.pt or follow him @joseavillez



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BECK GETS SOCIAL With three Michelin stars under his belt, over 30 years’ experience, and nine restaurants worldwide including Dubai-based Social by Heinz Beck at Waldorf Astoria The Palm Jumeirah, Heinz Beck is an extremely highly respected chef in the culinary world. We caught up with the Michelin marvel during his recent visit to Dubai. By SOPHIE VOELZING

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rom Germany and Italy, to Portugal, Tokyo and Dubai, internationally renowned chef Heinz Beck is originally from Germany. Beck moved to Rome, Italy in 1994 to take the reins at La Pergola, where he earned three Michelin stars in 2009 and has maintained them ever since. He has become a well-respected advocate of light and healthy Mediterranean cuisine, and continues to support research into the science behind nutrition and food-related diseases, with books published to highlight his findings, such as ‘Ipertensione e Alimentazione’ (Hypertension and Nutrition, 2010). In Dubai recently to oversee menu updates at Social by Heinz Beck, here’s what the accomplished chef shared with us…

How did your journey in the kitchen begin and why did you take the Mediterranean route? I wanted to become a painter as a child, but my father didn’t support that. He believed that painting was just a hobby and not a job. So, I turned to cooking, because it was something I believed that would still allow me to express myself – and it does. I’ve always really been interested in healthy cooking, and once I moved to Italy, it was only natural that my interest towards Mediterranean food strengthened, and has continuously in the 21 years following.

What is your signature dish is at Social? The menu is varied and so this changes quite often. At the moment, it’s amberjack with pomegranate snow and yuzu.

Which suppliers do you work with in the UAE to source ingredients for the restaurant? I am lucky to work with the best professionals in the UAE food industry. When choosing suppliers, the most important factors are that we share the same values and care for high quality and service.

Are there any ingredients you’d love to offer on your menu, but struggle to source here in Dubai? None. Until now, I’ve not had any problems in finding the ingredients I require.

For chefs reading who would one day love to join your kitchen brigade – what four main qualities do you look for in a chef when hiring? When hiring a chef, I look for humility, tenacity, passion and a constant desire to keep learning about ingredients and techniques.

Do you create your menus around seasonality and availability of produce? Of course. In Dubai it’s slightly more difficult than in my other restaurant destinations because availability of fresh produce isn’t as good. But, I am very selective about my products. In Italy for example I have a man who supplies pigeons to me from his small farm. He has just three clients. So you can imagine the scale of the operation. But his product is of an extremely high standard and I’ve not found anything else that compares, so as and when he has the pigeon available, I’ll put it on to the menu.

Looking ahead, do you have any exciting happenings upcoming at the restaurant in terms of new ingredients, special events or menus? Yes! We always offer a series of seasonal menus throughout the year (such as spring time and truffle season). We also curate special menus for events such as Waldorf Astoria Dubai Palm Jumeirah’s recent 5th anniversary celebrations. To honour five years since the opening of the property, and Social By Heinz Beck, we have created a series of special menus that will roll out across 2019, including a dedicated caviar-infused menu and a five-course set menu, with complimentary sixth course for the ultimate gastronomic journey.

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“When hiring a chef, I look for humility, tenacity, passion and a constant desire to keep learning about ingredients and techniques” educated in terms of food, wines and cuisine than in the past and their expectations are therefore set very high. For this we always do our best to surprise guests and with menus designed to evoke emotions as well as unforgettable memories.

Have you ever had to deal with unhappy customers? Well, you’re never going to please everyone, so I have had my fair few encounters over the years. I once had a woman at La Pergola requesting pigeon, which was unavailable at the time due to short supply. Speaking to her she told me that it was unacceptable to come into a 3-Michelin star restaurant to not have what she wanted. My response was that it was unacceptable to serve a customer a product of lower quality because our exclusive supplier didn’t have stock at the time. The pigeon that I buy is 100% high quality, so that fact that it is of such quality in a demanding market, it sometimes happens that we are unable to get it. I can apologise, but I won’t serve anything but high quality. So if that means running out of stock, then so be it.

Get to know Chef Heinz Favourite country to eat? Italy Which brand of knifes do you use? No brand in particular, as the knives I use are handmade by Japanese artisans Preferred fish? Amberjack Your ‘go-to’ meal? Fruits and vegetables Three ingredients you always have in your home kitchen? Pasta, herbs and an excellent extra virgin olive oil

Tell us about the new ‘blind tasting menu’ launching at Social this season and the inspiration behind it… The concept was inspired by a service that we often provide with our regular customers. Our guests like to rely on our expertise, giving us only a few indications in principle on what they like to eat and asking us to choose their meal. We have thus thought of offering this option to all customers, resulting in the launch of the blind tasting menu. Guests can choose from 3-5-7 or 10-courses and we simply ask them to advise us of any allergies, things that they don't like eating and preferences for meat

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How do you spend your free time?

cooking, to help guide us. This means that customer will not know any detail of the courses that will arrive at their table until the time of the service.

As we move into 2019, how do you see the world’s culinary landscape developing? What does today’s diner want from a culinary experience? As far as we see, customers now look not only for food, but for a complete dining experience. Nowadays there is a lot of attention towards the kitchen: TV programs, books, cooking schools, events and food festivals; our customers today are more

I don’t really have spare time. With nine restaurants globally, I’m working seven days a week. I used to have various hobbies back in the day, that I now don’t have time to do anymore. Who said anything about slowing down when you get older! I can't complain though, because I'm doing what I love and what I'm passionate about.

Looking back on your career, what would you say has been the most monumental moment of your journey? When I earned three Michelin stars for La Pergola in Rome – I really didn’t expect it or see it coming. It was an amazing experience. For more information about Social by Heinz Beck, call 04 818 2222.


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TAKING ON

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ABU DHABI Chef Tom Aikens gives us the low-down on his three new restaurants at the Abu Dhabi EDITION, where he finds culinary inspiration and explains how to stand out as a chef. By SOPHIE VOELZING

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ne of the UK’s most acclaimed British chefs, Tom Aikens recently broadened his culinary scope in the UAE, with the opening of three restaurants at the newly-launched Abu Dhabi EDITION. Tom, who already has a restaurant at Dubai’s beachfront destination, Jumeirah Beach Residence called Pots, Pans & Boards, is now the chef who oversees Oak Room, Alba Terrace and Market in Abu Dhabi. Outside of the UAE, Tom’s career so far has been incredibly accomplished in the culinary world – seeing him become the youngest British chef to earn two Michelin Stars. He’s worked at David Cavalier’s in Battersea, Pierre Koffman’s La Tante Claire, Joel Robuchon in Paris, Gerard Boyere’s in Riems, and the famed Pied-à-Terre before going on to open his immensely successful eponymous restaurant, Tom Aikens (20032014), which won a Michelin star and rising 2-star in 2009. Tom currently has three Tom’s Kitchen sites: the Chelsea original, which opened in 2006, Canary Wharf (2013), and the first UK site outside of London opened in Birmingham’s The Mailbox in December 2016. There are also two Tom’s Kitchen Delis, adjacent to the restaurants in Canary Wharf, and Birmingham. In addition to being a cookbook author and regular guest on Great British Menu

Get to know Chef Tom Favourite country to eat in? Spain Which brand of knifes do you use? I like Henkel, Zwillinger - both German brands Your ‘go-to’ meal? Simple grilled fish with olive oil and lemon Three ingredients always in your cupboards? Maldon salt, olive oil, Jasmin tea Who is your culinary inspiration? The two chefs that really shaped my career and who inspired me were Pierre Koffmann and Joel Robuchon

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“At the age of 26 I had the great honour to become the youngest British chef to be awarded two Michelin stars” and Great British Bake Off ’s The Extra Slice, Tom is dedicated to serving only the highest quality, ethically sourced ingredients and continually supports The Environmental Justice Foundation to raise awareness of illegal ‘pirate’ fishing and diminishing fish stocks. Here, he tells of how his journey in the kitchen got started, and how it brought him here to the Middle East…

How did you become a chef? For as long as I can remember – probably the age of 8 or so – my twin brother and I would help my mother out in the kitchen. She would involve us in making cakes and home baking, or just weighing things out – we were always on hand to help to lick out the occasional sticky raw cake mix

that was left in the bottom of the bowl! I have a very real memory of her making milk bread. Sometimes I think it was just a dream as the smell was so incredible. Living in Norfolk we had a large back garden where we grew a lot of our own fruit and vegetables; so from an early age I understood a little about seasonality and that great produce does not grow all year around, but is very much predicted by the weather and season. We grew lots of soft fruits (strawberries, gooseberries, blackberries) for making jam although most often we wanted to see how much my twin and I could stuff into our faces without my mother seeing. There was a lot of toing and froing from the garden to the kitchen and back. I loved digging in the garden for fresh vegetables


trained by amazing French chefs, I tend to cook a mix of seasonal traditional British and also some French classics with creative twists, but always with seasonality at the forefront.

During your years in the kitchen so far, in which ways have you found most beneficial to bettering your skills as a chef? It takes a lot of determination, hard work and self-belief to be a chef. Being tidy, a perfectionist and very well organised are key qualities in this profession. It also requires to be creative and open-minded in order to be able to come up with new concepts in different countries with different cultures, and to adapt my cuisine to different crowds and tastes. You have to have a game plan and set goals for the future. Be patient and persevere –sometimes working as a chef involves taking steps backwards and forwards to get to where you want to be, always take advice and listen.

How many restaurants do you have in the Middle East, and how often do you visit each outlet? I have the three at the Abu Dhabi EDITION, each of the restaurants are very different from one another. Alba Terrace is Mediterranean-inspired. The informal yet informed British rock ‘n’ roll steakhouse is called Oak room. Then the all-day dining restaurant, Market, is an outlet focused on wellbeing and healthy eating. I also have my sharing-style concept in Dubai at The Beach, named Pots, Pans & Boards. I visit each of these outlets around four times each year.

and seeing things grow and come to life, it was a very blissful time. I must have been approximately 13 years old when I seriously decided to become a chef. I was terrible at school and knew that I did not want to be stuck in an office behind a desk. As a result, I left school at 16 and enrolled at Norwich City College Hotel School. An Advanced Catering Diploma later, I went straight to London and sent my (small) CV to about 30 different hotels and restaurants. Everyone came back with the same answer “sorry not enough experience, try again in three years’ time”. Finally, David Cavalier was the first one to give me a commis position in his

Michelin-starred restaurant in Battersea, London. I had to work for free for the first six months before he would give me a job so I had to prove that I was good and hungry enough for it. I then went onto work with a whole host of different chefs in London and France, including Pierre Koffmann in London, Joel Robuchon in Paris and Gerard Boyers in Reims. At the age of 26 I had the great honour to become the youngest British chef to be awarded two Michelin stars.

How would you describe your cooking style? Being proudly English but having been

With so much travelling, are you able to get hands on in the kitchen often? Yes, all the time! I love cooking more than anything and would rather much be at the stoves than the desk.

On a global level, which chef or chefs do you look to for inspiration and why? The two chefs that really shaped my career and who inspired me are Pierre Koffmann and Joel Robuchon; both very different chefs. One was all about the flavours and tastes on the plate and the other was really about the precision and details, and of course tastes as well. They both also focused on amazing produce. My style is

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a bit of both of them to be honest. I love the intricacy, but a dish has to have great flavour too.

What’s a new ingredient that you’re enjoying cooking with at the moment and how do you utilise it in your dishes? I love sumac as it’s a lovely mix of spice and herbs that can be added to anything from yogurt, to fish or meat.

For chefs reading who would one day love to join your kitchen brigade – what four main qualities do you look for in a chef when hiring? To stand out as a chef is very difficult. In 1993, when I was at the beginning of my career, it was very unusual to leave your own country. I took the initiative and went to France for two-years, which was my way to stand out. Today, the world is much smaller and young chefs should travel the world to get better experience, even within the English-speaking world – for a time, and push themselves to the limit. Working more than 16-hours a day in a country where you do not understand the language is a very hard thing to do, but it forces you to discover if you really love

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the profession enough to make a career out of being a chef, plus you will meet like-minded chefs. I have sent several chefs abroad – chefs I know that can push themselves and chefs that have a dream. The dream is a story like mine; they must have goals, dreams, ambition and be driven. My first pastry chef, who worked for me at Tom Aikens for two years, wanted to open a small pastry shop in his local village. I said, “no way, are you mad, I know that you can do better than this” and I sent him to Thomas Keller. That was ten years ago and today he is Head Pastry Chef for The French Laundry and Per Se. When you see a bright light in a chef, it very rewarding to help them improve and guide them along the right road. I can tell very quickly whether a young cook has the character to become a good chef. Skills are not everything; it is the ability to work hard and to organise. They must have initiative, keep their eyes open and most importantly, listen. You can tell by the way people speak and how they organise their work life and tools, whether they will get through the rough times. If they do they will most assuredly be on their way to becoming a great chef. I always timed myself when I was a commis chef see how long it took me

to do a particular job. No one told me to do this, I did it because I knew it would make me better than the others.

What do you consider to be your biggest success as a chef? When you see other chefs that you have trained and helped become amazing chefs themselves.

What do you predict as the next big trend in cooking and in the restaurant industry? It's fascinating to watch the development of new trends and ideas in food and restaurants. I'm never one for following a craze but I always make sure we keep ahead. I read a lot of different articles on food development via the magazines and various blogs. New ideas come and go very quickly, and it takes a lot to make one single idea into an actual reality. Therefore, it's very important to surround yourself with creative influences and stay true to your own style. To find out more about Tom Aikens, follow him on Instagram @tomaikens. For more information about Abu Dhabi EDITION, call 02 208 0000, or visit editionhotels.com/ abu-dhabi/ or e-mail restaurantreservations. auh@editionhotels.com.


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“Winning this competition was a big career turning point for me” What does it take to enter a major regional culinary competition and win? We share the success formula of last year’s Richemont Masterbaker Pasty Champion, Chef Vimal Nair, Pastry Chef at Anantara The Palm, Dubai. What made you enter the competition? I was attracted to this competition because even though it’s for professionals, there is still a lot of learning you can take away in the process. It is the only competition in the Middle East specifically for baking and pastry, so this competition already stands out and it’s exciting that there are different kinds of challenges involved in taking part. As professionals, we must always push ourselves! Did you manage to showcase yourself as well as your skills? As well as creating the show pieces for the challenges, I think the extent of my planning and preparation was visible – which is a reflection of my mindset and character. While competing, I always had to keep a detailed plan in mind and was very disciplined about keeping to a strict timeline to finish each element. Seeing the other competitors’ work, I felt they were either equal to or more talented than me. So, using my step-by-step plan, balanced with a determination to stay within the allocated time, it meant that I could do the very best that I could do. I had to be confident in my plan, but not so overly-confident that I made mistakes. I worked to this method to keep my progress in check, but I think this approach showed the judges how I think as a Pastry Chef. What does it take to win? For sure, it takes dedication and being committed to wanting to be the best you can be – the same is true for both pastry and baking. You also need to really do your homework beforehand and practice, practice, practice – and do it to timings – to perfect what you want to put on the plate. Having a detailed plan will go a long way in preventing you from losing track and getting overwhelmed. Your plan is the key – it will help you deal with the pressure of the competition and give you good presence of mind throughout. In my case, I didn’t have a ‘Plan B’, I researched my plan beforehand and trusted it to see me through each task.

As the Richemont Masterbaker Pastry Champion of 2018, part of your prize was to win a once-in-a-lifetime trip to Switzerland to be trained by Masters. How was your trip?! It was a great, great experience and so beautiful there - the school, the location, the architecture – and it gave me fantastic learning exposure. I got to try new chocolates, new ingredients and even experienced new trends that I have never seen in Dubai before. I feel these Swiss techniques have given me a real edge. It was a rich and valuable learning experience, in a beautiful setting. Winning the prestigious Richemont Masterbaker Pastry Championship last year was a big career turning point for me. After going through the entire competition process and becoming the Richemont Baker Pastry Champion of 2018, what advice would you give to pastry chefs and bakers thinking of entering the championships this year? It is more important to do your best, rather than think in terms of winning the championship. Being determined to challenge yourself to do your very best is already a win-win situation. My advice is to go ahead and enter, do your research well beforehand, have a solid plan of action in place for all the steps it will take to achieve your plates, and work at the highest level you have within yourself. If you do that, you’ve already raised your standards and you’re already a winner, compared to people that don’t enter. You have everything to gain and nothing to lose by entering – just go for it! This year, there is the added advantage of competitors being able to attend an Open Day at the actual Richemont Masterbaker competition kitchens in Dubai’s JLT, to check out the ovens, the working space and the equipment. Combine this advantage with Chef Vimal’s insights, and you’re already half-way prepared for the 2019 championships. The rest is all about your talent! If you are ready to showcase your skills, take your career to the next level, and be in with a chance to learn from Masters in Switzerland, to register your entry today at www. championship-richemont-masterbaker.com


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THE CHOCOLATE INNOVATOR World-famous pastry chef and chocolatier, Pierre Marcolini recently made his Dubai debut with La Maison Pierre Marcolini in Dubai Mall. Talking all things chocolate, we spoke to the man himself to learn of this season’s hottest chocolate flavours, the demand for sugar-free products and what’s on offer in his new store.

By SOPHIE VOELZING

When I was a child – 9 years old – I used to trade my toys for desserts with my friends. From that time, I knew I wanted to become pastry chef. At the age of 19, I began working as a pastry chef in charge of a team of 10 people, after which the titles kept mounting up: Best Craftsman in Belgium in 1991, World Pastry Vice-Champion in 1992 and 1993 and, finally, World Champion in 1995. In the same year, I opened my very first workshop in Brussels. When I started out, the world of chocolatiers in Belgium seemed to be stagnating. All of the stores were chocolate coloured, all of the chocolate bars were rectangular, and all of the chocolates were sold in “ballotins” – cardboard boxes with several layers. This in spite of the fact that there is nothing more unsuitable for the

task: you can’t see all of the chocolates at once, and you make a total mess if you try and delve into one of the lower layers. So, Goodbye ballotins, Hello to the “Malline Découverte”; an amalgamation of the French words ‘malle’ (case) and ‘praline’, this innovative packaging puts the entire contents of the box on display in all their glory. I continually strive to innovate in the chocolate world, from the first-ever tea-flavoured ganache, the first pralines containing ‘forgotten’ grains, low-sugar recipes – I am known to shape the concept of modern chocolate.

Tell us about your new store at Dubai Mall… Our flagship store in Dubai inaugurates a brand-new retail concept designed in collaboration with the gifted Paris-based architect Pauline d’Hoop, known for her work on Paris hotspots Le Camondo and Hôtel Montecristo.

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ell us a little bit about yourself, and how you became a chocolatier…


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touch to the cutting-edge counters and illustrate The House’s visionary spirit. In addition to the exclusive Dubai collection, the boutique houses the signature collection including Grands Crus tablets; the world-famous hearts and pralines; dates and macarons as well as the recently launched sugar-free tablets and pastry collection. The store also features a craft ice-cream counter for those in search of a chilled treat.

What type of chocolate are consumers loving most at the moment?

The Dubai Mall store has been created as a living space, built around its huge central bar where customers can relax sample the chocolates, or attend one of the store’s master classes. Every aspect of the store is designed to reflect the expertise of ‘Pierre Marcolini House’: the living wall hints at the areas and cocoa plantations where the I hand-pick the finest beans. The slight imperfections of the zelige walls whose tiles were cut by hand are inspired by the craft aspect of the chocolate created in my workshop. Precious materials, including marble, dark wood species and copper, add a cosy

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Customers tend to appreciate less sugared chocolate treats. Many people are now aware that a good chocolate does not depend on the level of sugar, but rather the quality of the cocoa bean and the roasting process used. I was among the first who led the way for healthy and less sugared chocolate creations. And stay tuned, we have been preparing a complete healthy ice cream collection for the summer season. On top of that, we see different trends according to the weather. In winter, consumers are keen on tasting classic chocolate such as pralines, ganache, truffles whereas they will search for fruity flavours during hot season.

This year, what are the most trending flavours? Floral-fruity flavours are very much in: ganache with yuzu, rose-passion mix are among the best sellers in this period.

Hazelnut always remain a must have. Our Hazelnut spread “Casse-Noisette” as well as our truffles with Casse-Noisette are still a “block buster” when it comes to product sales.

Does your store offer any ‘free from’ items, such as dairy-free, nut-free and gluten-free? We have several creations “free from”, such as our spread “Casse-Noisette” is palm oil free. We have a chocolate tablet “sugar free” which is a must in Paris and Brussels. We are about to launch a new ice cream collection with no added sugar. The recipes are amazing, so delightful and light at the same time. You experience only the taste of the best ingredients we put inside.

Can we expect to see further expansion from the brand in the Middle East? The Middle East is key for the brand expansion. Art of sharing and gifting chocolates is a strong part of culture and I think nowadays, and people are expecting a more modern approach of chocolate – more healthy, renewed and fresh packaging – as we propose. So, it is the right time for us to develop the House here. We have several projects under developments, I hope to share more with you very soon. La Maison Pierre Marcolini, Dubai Mall Call: +971-4-551-1000 E-mail: dubaimall@marcolini.ae


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THIS MONTH’S SPEAKERS NIGEL MACHAKATA Head Chef, Big Easy Bar and Grill ROLAND EITZINGER Head Academic, Bakery, Richemont Masterbaker THOMAS FRISETTI Head Chef, Tanuki

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THE KITCHEN BUSINESS In this season’s installment, The Pro Chef Middle East frames a discussion for head chefs and academic culinary professionals, to educate, inspire and highlight the importance of professional training and support within kitchens. By SOPHIE VOELZING

WORK ETHIC AND CREATIVITY CAN BECOME TIRED WITHOUT INITIATIVES TO INSPIRE. WHAT WAYS DO YOU FIND HELP TO MOTIVATE YOUR TEAM AND KEEP THINGS FRESH IN THE KITCHEN? Roland Eitzinger: I think the best thing

PHOTOGRAPHS SUPPLIED, SHUTTERSTOCK

to motivate your employees is to lead by example. Show them what is expected. It is also important to communicate that you will help when needed, so they don’t feel like they’re being left alone.

LOOKING AT THE IMPORTANCE OF GOAL SETTING FOR CHEFS, HOW OFTEN DO YOU THINK GOALS AND OBJECTIVES SHOULD BE SET AND WHAT ARE THE BEST METHODS FOR STAFF PRODUCTIVITY?

Nigel Machakata: On the topic of staff productivity, this can be helped right from the beginning of employment with better recruitment, followed by consistent training that happens more regularly. Keeping staff morale is also important for productivity. Goals should be set with clear and focused objectives, that are realistic and achievable for chefs. Roland: Chefs need to know what they are supposed to be doing and what their goals are. Goals have to be set and regularly discussed with them. Progress has to be recorded. There should be long-and short-term goals as well as team goals and individual goals – a good mix to keep everybody on their toes.

WHAT METHODS DO YOU FIND SUCCESSFUL TO CHALLENGE YOUR JUNIOR CHEFS, WITHOUT INTIMIDATING THEM? Thomas: It’s basic, you just need to be professional, communicate well with your team and be sure to reward them when they do a good job. You need to create a good atmosphere in the kitchen and make sure your staff are happy to come to work, even if the job is hard. Teaching your team

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Thomas Frisetti, Head Chef, Tanuki

Roland Eitzinger, Head Academic, Bakery, Richemont Masterbaker

“You need to create a good atmosphere in the kitchen and make sure your staff are happy to come to work, even if the job is hard” things and giving them the tools to progress is also very important. All my staff want to improve, I just need to find the right way to motivate them.

Roland: Encouraging friendly competition among the staff can be fun and have everybody working towards a common goal. Posting about the winning chefs and their creations on the kitchen board or social media could motivate them further.

IN THE CURRENT MARKET, WHY DO YOU THINK JUNIOR CHEFS MOVE AROUND SO MUCH? Thomas: I think it’s important for junior chefs is to gain as much knowledge as possible. They need to find a good role with a good head chef who will be able to teach them 44 The Pro Chef Middle East

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new things. They want to improve and grow as much as possible, so they try and work in as many different establishments to acquire many different skills.

to gain the respect in the kitchen because of their skills, and not because of their position. A good leader should be able to manage all their staff and be able to adapt their style of management depending on what their staff need. You cannot use the same management style with all of the team as each member needs a different level of assistance. A good leader is able to bring the very best out of their staff. Being honest with your team is really important and also to be hard with them when they make a mistake, but also it’s really important thank them when they do a good job as they will really appreciate it and it will motivate them.

IN WHAT WAYS DO YOU BELIEVE HIGH STAFF KITCHEN TEAMS MORALE IS KEY TO SHOULD BE A SUCCESSFULLY EDUCATED ON FUNCTIONING MINIMISING TEAM. WHY WASTAGE IN DO YOU THINK THE KITCHEN, REWARDING AND WHICH IMPROVEMENT IN OPTION IS BEST IN PERFORMANCE TERMS OF COST AND SKILLS IS EFFECTIVENESS IMPORTANT, AND AND QUALITY – HOW DO YOU DO IT FRESH OR FROZEN, FOR YOUR TEAM? AND WHY? Roland: By giving employees a

chance to move up. Encourage them to work hard and with a purpose. Appreciate the employees by recognising their work and loyalty.

WHAT KEY SKILLS SHOULD A LEADER OF A KITCHEN HAVE AND WHY?

Thomas: From my point of view a leader of a kitchen should have a strong knowledge of their job,

Nigel: Minimising food wastage seems like a daunting task, but it’s achievable by taking control of the inventory, inspecting orders and storing products at the right temperature, using FIFO, as well as using the best judgement when planning new menus, promotions and serving the right portions. Choosing a reputable ingredient supplier is no small task, the safety and quality of the final food product is ultimately dependent on the ingredient and the supplier and as well sustainability – that’s why I prefer fresh from frozen.



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