The Refill issue 2

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the refill Fukuoka JET newsletter

Issue #2

Winter essentials │ OK Baji │ Shikoku’s 88 Temples │ Events


Editor’s note

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elcome to the second issue of The Refill, Fukuoka-ken’s bimonthly newsletter. As the leaves fall and the temperature steadily decreases, maintaining a positive outlook can be tricky. Luckily, we’ve filled this issue with lots of great info about ways to stay warm and occupied! You can try your hand at nabe (eating it while sitting under a kotatsu is recommended!) or make some delicious pumpkin bread. Travel logs from near and afar will excite and inspire. Reappointment looming over your shoulder? We offer a variety of perspectives for you to consider before checking the box.

For everyone traveling abroad, on a new adventure or seeking familiar comforts, safe travels. For everyone staying in Japan, embrace the holidays and enjoy the snow. As you travel, explore and rest, make sure to keep your pen and camera within reach! We encourage you to write us at the. refill.fukuoka@gmail.com with any comments, suggestions or submissions for future issues. Stay warm and see you in the new year!

Rebekah Randle Editor-in-chief

Cover photo: Keliko Adams

AJET: The Comic

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the refill #2 ǀ Dec ‘10/Jan ‘11

Editor-in-chief Rebekah Randle

Content Editors Keliko Adams Lindsay Pyle

Layout and Design Hugh McCafferty

Copy Editor Eryk Salvaggio

Contributors Greg Addenbrooke Julia Johnston Laura Cardwell Heather Kendall Kacie Chan Cassie Lealamanua John Crow Yannick McLeod Sarah Davis Holly Parker Rachel Dunn Shirin Sane Lauren Every-Wortman Mike Seidman Donte Frazier Joe Simpson Chris Harber Nobu Tanaka Barrett Ishida Caitlyn Tateishi Chase Wiggins

by Yannick McLeod

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Inside

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4 Short shorts

Lesser-seen Fukuoka: Taxis Top 5: Winter essentials

8 In Fukuoka

Fukuoka JET news and events

Photo: Kacie Chan

18 Travel

European tour Shikoku’s 88 Temple Pilgrimage

24 Living

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Study tips New Year’s in Japan Recipes

28 Opinion

Embracing culture What is our purpose as JETs? Should I recontract or not? Les aventures de Gaijin

36 Entertainment Events Japanese Dramas Chinese zodiac

Photo: Chris Harber

Photo: Caitlyn Tateishi

41 Reviews

Harry Potter 7 (part 1)

42 Photos

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Short shorts: Lesser-seen Fukuoka

Backseat driving Cassie Lealamanua on the advantages of getting to know your local taxi drivers

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e stops the meter and I squint at the four blaringred numbers. Ouch. “That’ll be 4,750-yen. Need a receipt?” His cheerful (albeit slurry) Kitakyushu accent pretends it doesn’t already know my answer. “Tch, expensive…” I complain – more to myself than anyone else – as I bid farewell to Lady Higuchi. “Next time, you should wake up earlier so you don’t miss the bus!” he laughs. He tells me the same thing every time. “Get an alarm clock. I got mine at the 100-yen store, see? It works.” He points to the plastic cracker-jack clock taped to his dashboard, then motions toward the ‘fancy’ phone in my hand. “Yours doesn’t work.” “I’ll think about it,” I say again as I roll my eyes and smile, yawning as he hands me my change (sans receipt) and opens the door. “See you next time,” he snarks, and I sweetly hope his coffee has gone lukewarm.

Like most establishments in Japan, taxi drivers are likely to offer saabisu (‘service’) discounts to frequent customers; some even have point cards. Your chances get even better if you call a driver directly, so consider asking for the business card of the next person who drops you off. Knowing your drivers also relieves you of having to explain how to get to your apartment (or school) when it’s too early to think or too late to care. “Oversleep again?” This one wheezes when he chuckles, no doubt a side-effect of his smoking habit. I wonder if he openly mocks his other passengers, too. “Hey, don’t laugh at me; I was really sleepy this morning!” “Busy with work?” “…No, that drama I like was on again last night... And it’s cold.” More wheezes, though they’re muffled this time. “Tuesday, right? Junior High School?” “Nah, they have tests this week.” I manage to find the earring I’d haphazardly pocketed as I bolted out the door. “Senior High it is then.”

Living an hour from school and not being a morning person makes me a lucrative mark

Living an hour away from school by bus-train-bus and not being a morning person, makes me a lucrative mark for taxis. I have spent more money on taxi fare than most people spend on plane tickets to Thailand. However, this unfortunate cost has given me a glimpse into the world of the Japanese taxi driver. If there is a taxi area near your home, get to know the drivers. Their knowledge and insight is unparalleled. Because of their clientele, taxi drivers know the most popular restaurants, the bus and train schedules, the good parts of town and the shady areas.

“I was walking around that temple near Cha Cha Town yesterday. You were right! There is a big Buddha statue over there!” I report. “…what time were you there?” “Around 4 p.m. Why?” “Oh good. Don’t go there after nine.” Befriend a taxi driver and you may find discounted fares.

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They’ve taught me about seasonal foods and the names of flowers along the road. Once on my way to work, I asked the driver if there were any cool events happening in the area. He drew a map to a Spring Firefly Festival and pasted it to my mailbox so I’d see it when I got home. Another driver taught me how my town got its name, then pointed to a grassy overgrowth and told me that there used to be a castle there. “You’ve lost weight!” “No, I haven’t.” “You haven’t?” She turns around to get a better look. “Ah, guess not. How’s your mom?”

Most drivers I’ve met tend to be men in their mid-60s who found retirement sluggish and boring and began driving. Others drive because it’s one of the few professions that will hire a senior citizen. Either way, they are more than happy December 2010 / January 2011 │

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Photo: Cassie Lealamanua

to share their knowledge with willing ears, and if you’ve ever tried to speak to a taxi driver, you’ll know how tough it can be to decipher meaning from their thick regional accents. I consider it cultural listening practice.

His eyes gleamed in the rear-view mirror, and I got ready to answer the inevitable Kuni Doko question. “Ya’re pro’bly a teacher, eh? D’ya like enka?” He garbled in a dialect that would melt a textbook. I fumbled; feeling like a student who’d memorized for an interview. “Er… I don’t know much about enka,” I confessed, “but I like Sakamoto Fuyumi.” I silently thanked the TV commercials for the one and only enka singer I know. “Her songs are pretty, and I like the stories.” “S’xactly!!” he exclaimed, the excitement in his voice catching me by surprise. “Songs today dun have any meanin’! You listen to ‘em and ya dun hear a thing. But with enka, there’s always a story. Always a lesson. And I’m tellin’ ya, the older ya get,

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the more ya understand ‘em.” He spoke with fervor, as if he’d been holding in these thoughts for decades. “Today’s kids’re listenin’ to garbage,” he concluded as the station came into view. “Go tell those students of ya’rs ‘bout enka, eh! No one’d listen to me, but maybe ya’d have better luck, right?” “Okay.” I answered. “I’ll try.” The creases around his eyes wrinkled into a smile, and he ran his leathery hands along his steering wheel. We reached the station and he turned off the meter, the four red digits disappearing from view before I could see them. “That’ll be 500-yen.” “…Wait, wha-?? But—” “500-yen, eh.” Cassie Lealamanua is a second-year ALT living in Kokura and working in Moji. More of her writing can be found in her Facebook status updates.

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Short shorts: Top five

Winter essentials Laura Cardwell explains how to stay fabulous in the freezing cold Japanese winter 1. Kotatsu By now you ought to know what a kotatsu is. But have you actually used one? Invite yourself to a kotatsu-owning neighbor’s place and squeal with delight as your legs warm and thaw. Home goods stores like Jusco deliver, should you choose to buy a kotatsu, but they’re not recommended for lazy people who are bad at getting out of bed. To accessorize with the best of ‘em, make sure you have a serving bowl full of mikan (mandarin oranges) on top of your kotatsu at all times. Borrow a cute cat from a neighbor or kidnap a stray for extra-cuddly company. 2. Throw/attend a nabe party A nabe party is a delicious way to beat the winter blues. Nabe is easy to make – throw some liquid into a pot, heat to a boil and add whatever ingredients you like. Popular broth flavors include kimchi, soy and motsu (intestine). Waistwatchers can substitute water for salty broth. Meat lovers may opt for shabushabu or sukiyaki, cooking thinly sliced pork and beef alongside cabbage and other veggies and utilizing delicious dipping sauces. Check out the nabe “How-to” guide in the Living section on page 27.

No. 1 Travel website: www.no1-travel.com/fuk Fukuoka JET travel page: www.fukuokajet.com/leisure/travel

4. Don’t be a hikikomori/beat the blues Hikikomori is a social phenomenon where Japanese people completely withdraw from the outside world, staying in their rooms for weeks at a time. While it can be tempting in winter to spend weekends feeling blue and Skyping people back home, it’s hardly healthy. If you’re prone to seasonal affective disorder or depression during winter, make sure you get out of the house every so often and see other humans. There are plenty of ways to get out there (block events, pub crawls like Nightwalker in Tenjin, festivals, outings with neighbors). Quick fix: Take a long walk or a run and let the endorphins fill you with a temporary lift of spirits.

Invite yourself to a kotatsu-owning neighbor’s place and squeal with delight as your legs warm and thaw

3. Go somewhere else Almost everyone gets a couple no-nenkyuu-necessary days off around the New Year. Take advantage! Many ALTs opt to explore Asia, go home, or take the opportunity to visit somewhere new. Check travel agencies (No. 1 Travel, the English-speaking branch of H.I.S., is a good one) and airline sites for flight deals listed on the big search engines. If your savings are scant, you need not go far to make your friends jealous. Go to the next town over and see what folks are up to there. Each neighborhood has its own unique way of celebrating holidays – and there’s a good chance some friendly locals will sponsor your sake and mochi. Stuck? Peep these links for ideas:

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5. Be a holidork Robert Lanham, the highlyacclaimed author of The Hipster Handbook, defines “Holidorks” as people who wear holiday-themed clothing; specifically, battery-powered holidaythemed clothing. One of the coolest things about living abroad is how expats come together to celebrate holidays. Homesickness is a devil of an emotion, but when you’re sickening yourself on latkes and honey-baked hams with a bunch of other homesick folks it’s hard to feel too bad. If your friends aren’t doing anything, a lot of community centers and internationally minded venues will have parties going on. As far as work is concerned, your efforts to bring the holiday spirit to your schools will likely be appreciated. A tiny fiber optic tree or mini-menorah can brighten up any staffroom!

Laura Cardwell lives and works in Tagawa, Fukuoka as a third year ALT. She’s not a real writer, but you can check out her personal blog at krampusattack. blogspot.com. December 2010 / January 2011 │

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Beat the winter blues AND stay chic with a festive sweater (photo: Craig Powell)


In Fukuoka

An evening in

Spookuhashi A first hand account of the annual Yukuhashi Halloween Party by Heather Kendall

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f the many western traditions we JETs may have missed this fall -- including the feasts and family fun of Thanksgiving and the vastly superior Canadian Thanksgiving -- one which we did not have to do without was Halloween. On Oct. 30, many JETs made their way to Yukuhashi (a town which one of my JTEs described as the ‘Tibet’ of Japan due, I would assume, to it’s remoteness and lack of attractions) for a legendary Halloween party. Held at Sai izakaya in the city, the party had food, fun and many tremendous costumes. For ¥3500 we were treated to tabi and nomihoudai all night. Ninjas, ghosts, zombies and witches were joined by cross-dressing spice girls, House, and many extremely cute Japanese children in tiny princess and pirate costumes. There were typical costumes such as frogs, cats and ghouls, as well as an astronaut, some candy corn, Alex from A Clockwork Orange, Jigsaw and Kim Jong-Il.

By far the most popular costumes were the entire Anpanman cast, including Anpanman himself. Arriving late because so many children had stopped him on the street, he was instantly a hit with small children, who ran at him all night and squealed “Aaaaan Paaaaan Maaaan!” to their mothers. He prompted international cooperation as both Japanese and foreign adults couldn’t wait to try on his excellent paper mache head. Shokupanman, Currypanman, Melonpanna, Baikinman, Rollpanna and Dokinchan were also in attendance to make up the well-dressed set of characters. The most terrifying costume was definitely Ginger Spice, one of three cross-dressed spice girls. He wore a Union Jack flag dress made from his own bed sheets, had blue, red, and white eyelashes and a rolling suitcase containing his bed. The costume contest was decided by the number of chopsticks placed into a glass and Anpanman easily triumphed.

Photo: Kathy Kimpel

After the party? The afterparty! We headed downtown where the costumed party-goers enjoyed dancing and eating street takoyaki. Watching people dance along to Justin Bieber with Anpanman and Shokupanman heads was extremely amusing. The rest of the night is a little hazy, which can only prove that Yukuhashi certainly does not warrant the Tibet reputation. This party proved that you don’t need ‘trick or treat’ and jack o’ lanterns to celebrate an excellent Halloween. Heather Kendall is a first year ALT who lives in Chikugo, enjoys Teaching, Tenjin and The old lady bar!

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HAPPY BIRTHDAY

OLDIES Photo: Chris Harber

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bout twice a year a live music event is organised in little-known (and highly underrated) Tagawa, in Chikuho. It is held at an outrageously funky izakaya where friends become family: Oldies Tex-Mex Restaurant, where the staff are super friendly and speak English. Oldies is a musically inclined izakaya where the Hard Rock Café-style decor speaks for itself. The eclectic collection of musicians who perform ensures a fantastic evening’s spectacle for all of the attendees. We did it again on the 13th of November, to celebrate Oldies’ 11th anniversary - and it was a groot bok jol (great big party)! First of all a BIG thank you to all of you who made it out! Without you it would not have been the amazing success that it turned out to be! Another BIG thank you to all of the musicians who performed at Oldies Winter Warmer this year for all of their hard work behind the scenes, and their promotion of live music in the area. This year’s line up, in order of appearance, consisted of: Yannick McLoed, Hugh McCafferty and John McHugh, Laura Cardwell, Toshi (the master of the izakaya) and Mr. Ota, Jon Wright and myself. Yannick, always stylish, emotive and interesting, played a solo set of original compositions on guitar and delivered his own brand of slam poetry. A great curtain raiser for the evening!

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Greg Addenbrooke on the Oldies eleventh anniversary party in Tagawa

Hugh McCafferty and John McHugh, an electric guitar and bass duo, performed an array of moody and melodious numbers with a few more light-hearted pop covers. The lovely Laura Cardwell collaborated on a few songs with her very adept violin, adding depth and classical nuance to their amazing set. Laura, an accomplished classical violinist, played a Metallica number solo with the lights dimmed to thrill the crowd! Additionally she collaborated with many of the other acts, showing her expertise and training in her ability to adapt to many styles of music. Laura, Toshi and Mr. Ota, a bassist, performed ‘Jambalaya,’ a popular country song from the perspective of a guitar, bass and violin trio. This song went down well with the audience and added to the complex combination of musical flavors.

Jon and I, our hand-percussion-and-guitar duo, performed reinterpreted pop songs and original compositions with Laura Cardwell. Our set ranged from blues to hip hop and rounded off the eclectic performances pleasantly. At the end of the evening all of the musicians performed ‘Stand by Me’, a perfect finale to a fantastic evening! Greg Addenbrooke is a 3rd year JHS ALT working for the Kitakyushu Education Office in Nogata, Chikuho. He specifically enjoys living close to chickens and believes that Bikuri-ichi is the centre of the universe.

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OK Baji Information about the Fukuoka AJET charity liason from Shirin Sane

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hile hiking in the mountains of Nepal, he was invited to a mountain village, home to one of his Sherpa. Born in Japan, he worked as a teacher, and could only speak Japanese and some English. Then one day, he packed up his life and left for a place where people spoke neither and everything was new, in the hopes of giving back to people in need. ‘OK Baji’ is a man who has committed the past 17 years of his life to bettering the lives of villagers throughout Nepal by educating children as well as giving medical attention to people who need it but can’t afford it. I first heard about OK Baji from a colleague of mine who was giving a presentation about his work in Nepal. As the tale goes, ‘baji’ means uncle, and whenever anyone asked for help, OK Baji would say ‘OK!’ So the name ‘OK Baji’ came about. Every year because of my colleague’s involvement with OK Baji’s work, OK Baji visits my town, Kogemachi, to give a talk about his charity work. This year, I had the pleasure of meeting him in person!

primarily by selling books and baked goods at ALT meetings. In December of 2009 the Charity Committee donated 30,000 yen raised from these sales on behalf of all Fukuoka JETs. On June 12th 2010, I had the pleasure of meeting OK Baji in person and presenting him with 60,000 yen raised by Fukuoka JETs through a concert to raise money for this charity fundraiser. I also presented a further 20,000 yen raised from book and bake sales. This month, Wenson Tsai will make the final donation of the 2010 calendar year when he visits Nepal. This donation will include the 19,300 yen that was raised at Mid-year Seminar alone!

When I presented OK Baji with the donation in June, I asked if he had any ideas for projects where we could see the impact our funds are making. He told me that that 80,000 yen would be enough for two young Nepalese women to receive a 3-year college education each. The women would have an opportunity to obtain skills, such as teaching and nursing, with which they could then use to give back to their local communities. It sounded perfect! With the money we continue to raise, we hope to send more children to school.

¥80,000 is enough to send two young Nepalese women to receive a 3-year college education each - they obtain skills which they can use to give back to their communities

As JETs, our job is to ‘foster internationalization at the grassroots level’. Upon formation in September of 2009, the Fukuoka AJET Charity Committee wanted to contribute to a local cause that fosters internationalization and gives back to the community. But the committee struggled to find a cause that would benefit from our available time and funds. The committee learned about the charity work that OK Baji is doing, and felt that while he works abroad rather than locally, his vision aligns with the committee’s mission. The promotion of education for children is a worthy and relevant cause wherever it may be in the world. Since then, the committee has supported this cause

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The Fukuoka AJET Charity Committee would again like to thank Fukuoka JETs for their time and support. Without your donations of books and baked goods your participation in the bake and book sales, and of course your generous monetary donations, none of this would be possible. We also wish Wenson Tsai a safe journey to Nepal and look forward to reading about his experience, and his first-hand encounter with OK Baji and his work. Shirin Sane is a second year ALT based in Koge Town. She has been working with the AJET Charity Committee since its inception in 2009.

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I SAW A BIG RED FISH IN KARATSU CITY Kacie Chan shares a few tales from the recent Karatsu Kunshi Festival in Saga prefecture

Photo: Kacie Chen

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very time I walked past the train station to work, I always saw a poster of a massive red fish float being carried by dozens of men wearing traditional Japanese clothing. Needless to say, I was curious what kind of festival it was. Why were these people in the poster dressed in colorful clothing and carrying a huge fish in the street? At the beginning of November, I was invited by a Saga JET to a cultural event called Karatsu Kunchi (唐津くんち). She said that it was the biggest event in Karatsu, Saga, and she told me that all the local people would carry huge floats throughout the city and invite visitors into their homes for food. I immediately realized she was talking about the fish float poster and I knew I wanted to go to this festival.

This annual event is held on the evenings of November 2-4 in Karatsu central district. I decided to go went on Wednesday, November 3 because it was a holiday and I invited some friends to join me. We took about an hour bus ride from Tenjin Bus Terminal and arrived at Karatsu City at around 2 p.m. When we got off the bus, the streets were filled with people and stalls that were selling food, toys, turtles, fish, games and clothing. As we walked through Karatsu, we ate some delicious okonomiyaki and fried squid and as we followed the crowd to the center of the city to watch the huge floats swinging through the street.

There were total of 14 hikiyama (floats). Each hikiyama had different features and forms - samurai helmets, dragons, fish, and sea creatures. The most popular hikiyama was the Red Fish, which had been depicted in the poster, and was made into all kinds of souvenirs for the festival. Each float was carried by a group of selected local men from the Karatsu neighborhood, and each group dressed in the color theme of their hikiyama. The youngest boys walked in front of the group, followed by the teenagers. The strongest men, whose ages ranged from 20 – 30, carried the hikiyama. These men sang and drummed taiko inside the hikiyama while the older men followed behind. I did not see women participating in the float performance and according to the TV news, women were busy elsewhere, preparing food for male float participants. After the festival, these hikiyama were returned to the Shinto Shrine for display and reuse in the next Karatsu Kunchi. My friends and I really enjoyed the Karatsu Kunchi and the spirit of the Karatsu locals. It gave us a chance to see something different than the big city and celebrate a traditional festival with the some local people.

I will definitely bring my family and friends back to see the Big Red Fish and eat some yummy fried squid!

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Fame! Fortune!

Salad dressing? A personal review of Fukuoka Now’s Gaijin Idol contest by Chase Wiggins

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ntering a talent show and performing in front of a large crowd of strangers and recent colleagues in a country you have moved to only a month before, may not be everyone’s cup of tea. Add to that scenario the capstone of being publicly ridiculed by a particularly harsh panel of judges and most people would classify the experience as an unqualified disaster and a downright nightmare.

However, as the lights dimmed in the Fukuoka Now Lounge on Sept. 17 and Japanese Michael Jackson dance-a-like, Toshi Jackson, left the stage to a hearty round of applause, that is exactly the position I was in alongside my friend and the guitar player of our duo, Carl Batac. Randomly entering a talent contest such as Fukuoka Now’s “Gaijin Idol” is not typically my cup of tea, either. I had, however, responded with a “sounds like fun” when Carl asked if I wanted to enter with him, so I was determined to follow through. It turns out the night ended up being less about tea and more about salad dressing, anyway.

As Carl noted before we began our performance, we are “just a couple local [Hawaii] boys who love to sing and have fun.” In the spirit of that sentiment, we chose to perform a cover of “Billionaire” by Travie McCoy, formerly of the Gym Class Heroes, and Bruno Mars, another local Hawaii boy, who is currently making it big with his own love of singing and having fun. The song features sharp rap lyrics over a laid back chorus, typical of contemporary “Jawaiian” music in Hawaii, and strikes a brilliant balance between McCoy’s rhymes and Mars’ local Hawaii roots. The song required very little tweaking, as it fit our style and Carl and I were happy to perform a cover of the song basically as-is. The judges, however, would have preferred we dressed it up a bit more.

As we finished our performance, the judges jotted notes and prepared to deliver their comments. The only Japanese judge on the panel was the first to speak, and noted that the crowd seemed to loved us and that we must already have

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many friends and, after tonight, fans in Fukuoka. I hope this was, and will prove to be, true.

Unfortunately, that’s where the good news ended. The rest of the panel proceeded to offer comments that were far less positive and at times astounding in their profundity. One judge, for instance, noted that if we were already “billionaires,” as the song title suggested, we would have no need to win tickets to Thailand, the proffered grand prize in the competition. Another offered that, despite the positive reaction from the crowd, we were, in short, boring.

We did not win the competition (little surprise after the judges’ comments) but we did succeed in accomplishing what we came to do: Dress up and bring the party down. The rest of the night was a blur of hand shaking, introductions and an outpouring of support from our friends and perfect strangers. Far from a nightmare, I would classify the night as a great success, and an especially fun first Fukuoka Now party. My would-be-Gaijin-Idol compatriots and I were a great main attraction, if I do say so myself. Carl and I were rewarded with four bottles of salad dressing, which I maintain constitutes a fourth-place finish, since no other consolation prizes contained quite so many bottles of dressing. More than that, the night provided me with a solid foray into the Fukuoka international community and music scene - not bad for a JET who was only one month into his first year. I walked away with new friends, a great experience and, of course, the promise of many a delicious salad dinner. I look forward to my next Fukuoka Now party and the chance to get on stage and do it all over again. Chase Wiggins is a first-year SHS ALT living in Iizuka. When he’s not teaching at either of his two schools, he can typically be found depositing his hard earned money into UFO catchers all around Fukuoka and/or performing feats of daring-do on his scooter named “Piglet”. December 2010 / January 2011 │

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I walked away with new friends, a great experience and, of course, the promise of many a delicious salad dinner

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Photo: Hidde de Vries

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Music for the soul John Crow’s round-up of recent gigs and upcoming shows you shouldn’t misss

Recently in Fukuoka Crazy Ken Band Impossible to classify, this twelve-member band has taken inspiration from nearly every musical genre. Funk, rock, reggae and even enka aren’t off-limits. Their classy image and lyrical content often allude (in a tongue-in-cheek fashion) to a bygone era filled with muscle cars, rich playboys and leggy women. With over ten studio albums, there’s always a favorite song you don’t get to hear - but don’t worry, they take requests at every show.

Kimaguren Even in winter, this duo’s heart and soul remain firmly in the summer. Kurei’s flawless English raps, influenced by Jason Mraz and Sugar Ray, are perfectly complemented by his partner Iseki’s passionate singing. They regularly travel with a large backup band to create their Latin-infused beach music from scratch, and guests will find the positive energy and infectious beats impossible to resist.

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The Telephones This experimental alternative rock band is best described as controlled chaos. With their high-pitched, Freddie Mercury inspired vocals set to electronic effects and changing rhythms, The Telephones always manage to drive their fans into a frenzy of cheering and moshing. Though their English is sometimes incomprehensible, you’ll definitely understand their frequent shouting of “Disco!” Mihimaru GT (pictured) Infectious and addictive, this duo’s self-described “hip-pop” style has been the source of several hit singles and songs used for movies, television and video games. Their partnership, formed after each led small solo careers, combines Miyake’s compositions and rhymes with Hiroko’s cute yet amazingly powerful voice. Adept at both fast raps and slow ballads, their high-energy concerts leave everyone breathless from constant standing and cheering. December 2010 / January 2011 │

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Upcoming shows Tokyo Ska Paradise Orchestra Fukuoka Shimin Kaikan (福岡市民会館), January 10, 6 pm All reserved seating ¥5,500 Combini direct sales: Lawson <Lコード:82180> Family Mart <Pコード:111-547> If you’re interested in ska and jazz, look no further: Over their 21 years together, this band has been one of the most influential within Japan and overseas. Though several members have joined and left over the years, the current nineman lineup is stronger than ever. They’ve produced a mix of instrumental and sung tracks, though recent albums have included collaborations with notable solo artists including Saito Kazuyoshi and Crystal Kay. The Bawdies DRUM LOGOS, January 27, 8 pm Sold out (try Yahoo Auctions or scalpers)

For those wanting to see the Beatles, Rolling Stones and rockabilly reborn, you’re in luck. When this band takes the stage in their trademark dark suits and explode in a frenzy of classic rhythm and blues, you’ll wonder if you’re still in Japan. Lead singer Roy’s boyish good looks are misleading, and until you see him in person effortlessly emulating Little Richard you’ll never quite believe it.

Orange Range Fukuoka Sun Palace (福岡サンパレス), January 29, 6 pm Reserved seating ¥5,500 / Standing ¥5250 Combini direct sales: Lawson <Lコード:84414> Family Mart <Pコード:121-789> Combining their Okinawan heritage with American influences, this alternative rock and hip-hop band has achieved tremendous success with eight consecutive number 1 singles while defying genre conventions. In recent years they’ve moved in a more hip-hop direction, but every concert continues to provide a mix of rock, rap and pop tracks to satisfy both diehard fans and newcomers. Straightener Zepp Fukuoka, February 20, 6 pm Standing ¥4000 / Seating ¥4000 Combini direct sales: Lawson <Lコード:84656> Family Mart <Pコード:122-760>

With over 10 years experience, this mainstay of Japanese alternative rock and punk continues to play amazing shows at live houses across the nation. Due to the close-knit nature of the alternative scene, their members have played with musicians from Ellegarden, Glay, The Pillows, Zazen Boys and many other successful bands. With similarities to Jimmy Eat World and Coldplay, these veterans produce some of the best rock Japan has to offer.

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Travel

European

magic

After a crazy, whistlestop tour of Europe, Barrett Ishida can’t wait to get back

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o we woke up in London, went through France and Belgium, and now we’re partying on a boat in Amsterdam? That’s [expletive] crazy!” I’m not sure if it was the journey, the Flügel shots or the keg of the freshest Heineken I’ve ever had that makes me unsure, but I think we all agreed: Day one of our European tour was intense and it wasn’t even finished.

With a few friends from the States, 2nd-year ALT Tammy Burgett and I embarked to Europe with Contiki, a group that specializes in tours for 18-to-35 year olds. As we stumbled along the canals of Amsterdam that first night, we passed store windows with what seemed like moving mannequins in lingerie. Before we sobered up and realized we were walking through the infamous Red Light District, we found ourselves headed into a theater where the acts on stage might as well have been ice water thrown in our faces. One of us walked out with a big “Bad Boy” Sharpie’d onto his stomach that night. Exactly how that got there, I’ll leave up to your wild imagination. Day one was in the books. After exploring the city for much of the second day, we headed to St. Goar, a quaint town in the Rhine Valley of Germany. After some wine-tasting in a 12th-century Medieval cellar and picking up some beer steins, we headed out to the third day’s destination: Munich.

Munich’s main attraction: the 200th anniversary Oktoberfest in its birthplace. With zero understanding of German, we followed the crowd, many wearing traditional lederhosen and dirndl outfits, to what appeared to be a carnival of epic proportions. Passing by the many rides and booths, we hopelessly searched for a spot to grab a drink until a Hofbräuhaus beer maid was nice enough to help us out. Picture numerous warehouses full of several thousand people, getting drunk and having the grandest time of their lives together. No drunken brawls, just everyone singing with the band, making new friends and redefining what a good night should be like. Top it all off with a bratwurst at the end and that is Oktoberfest.

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“Who had a good night last night?” the tour guide asked on the bus the next morning. After some brief enthusiasm, we all passed out and woke up next to the icy blue rivers of Innsbruck, Austria. In typical fashion, we were off again in a blink. This time we had to battle other tourists in the claustrophobic, narrow streets of Venice, Italy, in a scene that embodied the chaotic madness of Italian culture. You quickly learn that the lifestyle you witness in the likes of Armani is not so typical. After some wine drinking on a gondola, a Murano glass-blowing demonstration and other Venetian sights, it was time to leave the floating city, and as quickly as its boats would come and go, Venice came and went. It wasn’t until the rain came down on me in Lucerne, Switzerland, that I thought, “We really have seen and done a lot.” Sure, my memory was as clouded over as the Alps were, but the pictures on my camera were telling me this was the eighth country in just a week. It wasn’t until the Eiffel Tower came over the horizon that I was sure about exactly where I was.

At the beginning of the journey, our guide had warned us to take our expectations of Europe and throw them away. It was good advice, but Paris probably comes closest to meeting expectations, positive or negative. From the Arc de Triomphe to the designer shopping, from the beautiful lights to the teens making obscene gestures in the air at us from the riverside, you become immersed in the culture. As I sat there with women you’d hide from a child’s eyes and sailor men singing and dancing twenty feet away from me at Moulin Rouge, I ate my French steak and thought, “This really sums it up, doesn’t it?” The next day, with spirits high and tired eyes, we made our way back to London to end the trip. While I wish I had more time in certain cities, it would be impossible to experience all that I had in such a short time if I had done it myself. Feeling satisfied but reluctant to leave, we boarded our flight. Until next time, Europe. Barrett Ishida is a second-year ALT in Yukuhashi.

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“

It was time to leave the floating city and as quickly as its boats would come and go, Venice itself came and went

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Photo: Barrett Ishida

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Hitching henro

Chris Harber took on Shikoku’s epic 88 Temples Pilgrimage and, despite a spot of hardship here and there, found it to be one of the most enjoyable experiences he’s had in Japan December 2010 / January 2011 │ the refill 20


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o dude, I’m thinking of hitchhiking around the 88 Temples in Shikoku. You interested?” I never thought that sitting in Nogata station would lead to one of my greatest memories in Japan.

the refill | December 2010 / January 2011

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I had heard about the pilgrimage once before from a friend who had cycled it in 2009. It is based on the belief that Kôbô Daishi, a Buddhist monk and founder of the Shingon sect of Buddhism, visited all 88 temples at some point in his life. The traditional method is to walk, and takes over a month, however nowadays you often see people driving or taking organized bus tours. We were going to hitchhike it.

It took my friend Doug, an ALT from Fukushima, and me approximately two weeks to complete our journey around Shikoku’s coastline. Most henro (pilgrims) start in Tokushima prefecture and go clockwise round to Temple 88 in Kagawa before returning back to the beginning, but this is not a requirement. At each temple you can present your stamp book (nôkyocho) and the monk will inscribe a record of your journey. This was an important process for us as every page filled represented a milestone we had crossed. Someone once said to me “once you’ve seen one temple you’ve seen them all.” This person has obviously never been to Shikoku. Whilst all the temples on the pilgrimage feature the same buildings, each temple had its own personal style. Even now, I can vividly remember many of the temples, whether it is Tairyuji (#21) nestled deep in the mountains of Tokushima or Kouonji (#61) in Ehime, a modern temple that looks like something out of a sci-fi movie.

Someone once said to me ‘once you’ve seen one temple you’ve seen them all.’ This person has obviously never travelled to Shikoku

Whilst on our journey we found ourselves becoming a part of the henro culture. Conversation would revolve around where walkers started that day and how far they wanted to get before nightfall. I was wary that the traditional walkers would not approve of our hitchhiking, but I couldn’t have been more wrong: “It’s not how you do it, it’s what you learn” one man told us, now on his 5th circuit. The tour groups would sometimes chuckle at our expense whilst we waited, only to be shocked to see we managed to catch up with them. The pilgrimage has a strong tradition of osettai (gift giving). Local people believe that by helping the henro in some way they will be in turn be rewarded. One rainsoaked day when walking to the next temple an old lady stopped us in the street and gave us 1000 yen towards our journey. One cannot stress enough the kindness of the locals. Neither of us had ever hitchhiked before and I can still remember our first ride. We got whiteboards from Daiso and wrote, in Japanese, our destination and “日本語 OK!” (Japanese OK!) to let them know that we can speak Japanese. I expected we would sit around for a while, but 3 minutes later we were on our way. Even though we were not Buddhist, a salesperson from Okayama took the time to show us how to pray properly. A family from Tokushima “adopted” us for the evening, and Doug and I spent the journey translating the lyrics of “Puff, The Magic Dragon” for their son who enjoyed studying English, a surreal experience to say the least.

Each ride we secured meant meeting people from all walks of life: the local gardener who helps henro by transporting

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their backpacks to the temple at the top of the mountain, a couple from Hiroshima who were expecting their firstborn within the month - we travelled with for two days, finishing our pilgrimage with them - and two Americans who quit their jobs to walk the pilgrimage. Of course we had rough times too. Our three days in Kochi prefecture were met with constant rain and very few rides December 2010 / January 2011 │

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Photos: Chris Harber

but we managed to make light of bad situations, such as a dinner of two oranges, a KitKat and a SoyJoy bar, or Doug having to dry his rain-soaked shoes with a hotel hairdryer. However, even these times were enjoyable; at the very least it made for a talking point with fellow travelers. As cliche as it sounds, the people we met really did make our trip a once-in-a-lifetime experience. To this day Doug

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and I keep in contact with the couple from Hiroshima, who have since given birth to their son (though they didn’t name him Chris, as I suggested). Head to Shikoku, meet some of the people and visit a few temples. I don’t think you’ll have a disappointing experience. Chris Harber is a third-year ALT in Fukuoka. More of his photos can be seen at www.flickr.com/britishchris

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Living

日本語

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study tips

tarting on the path towards language proficiency is a long (and often difficult) endeavor—and few languages represent this challenge as adeptly as Japanese.

Before your language study begins, reflect on just why you want to learn. This will be essential for getting the most out of your studies. Your reasons can help to guide the course and method of study over the months to come. This is because conversational and written Japanese, while similar, are different beasts. In fact, Japanese — designated at the maximum Category III difficulty for languages by the Foreign Service Institute of the U.S. Department of State — is a unique challenge for native English speakers, who are usually only familiar with the spoken and written word via the Romance languages. Japanese’s primarily subjectpredicate/subject-object-verb structure, its strict differentiation between ‘honorific’ and ‘humble’ forms, and its reliance on a highly complex series of ideographic symbols (Kanji) as well as the simpler hiragana and katakana are all hurdles. The Foreign Service Institute expects students to dedicate a minimum of 2200 hours to the language to attain a passable level of proficiency.

with Donte Frazier the simpler hiragana and katakana characters. The key to Japanese language study lies in assessing your needs and your intentions, and starting out from there.

If your goal is to speak Japanese, make a friend. It’s the simplest and cheapest way to study. If you have one, ask a Japanese significant other for help — but always be careful when studying from someone of a different gender. Japanese is unusual in that there is a degree of difference in the speech patterns of men and women. A man caught using feminine Japanese might have his sexuality questioned, and vice-versa. So, always be careful when learning how to speak. In these cases, paying for a professional tutor may be more valuable.

If your goal is to write, then try taking up a calligraphy class. In calligraphy, the teacher will go to great pains to demonstrate stroke order, which is the key to writing kanji correctly. Also, if you own a Nintendo DS, pick up a copy of Kanji Sono Mama to practice your stroke order and Kanji writing. If you have an iPhone, pick up the ShinKanji and Kotoba applications. All three of these programs are the perfect tools for anyone studying Japanese.

If your goal is to read, I recommend the excellent Kanzen Master series of Japanese language Kanji Sono Mama on the DS is great for mastering kanji study books. These books teach everything from grammar to reading comprehension and kanji recognition. After using these, you might want to try taking the Japanese Proficiency Exam, a twice-yearly test that can be used as Why study Japanese? Is it so that you may better both a professional and personal gauge of one’s Japanese communicate with a significant other? With friends? Do language ability. you aspire to be a translator, or hold a similar job where proficiency in the language would be essential? Do you As with anything in life, determination is essential, and all want to work in International relations? Or do you just want may not be as difficult as this article may make it seem. to be able to watch your favorite shows without the burden Practice every day, whether via the methods above or of having to read subtitles (and finally know what they’re others, and you will find yourself learning more than you really saying?) Depending on your answer, there will be may have ever expected. Good luck with your Japanese different paths in language study available to you. studies! However, as Japanese is both structurally and grammatically similar to Korean and Chinese, students with previous experience with one or both of these languages will already have an adequate foundation.

Developing a passable speaking ability in Japanese is a far easier task than learning the written form, and many foreigners can make do in daily life after learning only

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Donte Frazier is a fifth-year ALT in Fukuoka. He enjoys long walks on the beach and big bowls of tonkotsu ramen. December 2010 / January 2011 │

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Preparing for the New Year

Japanese-style Celebrating the New Year in Japan this year? Keliko Adams has a few tips for you

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fter a year and a half of living in Japan, I’ve found that there are two things that seem to be above all else, very important to Japanese people: food and family. New Years (o-shogatsu お正月) is no exception. Preparations start weeks and even months in advance to thoroughly celebrate this event and food and family play key roles in these celebrations.

The first three days of the New Year are usually spent at home and visiting family nearby, which also means that most Japanese businesses will shut down, including banks - so be sure to take out money well in advance. In order to keep in touch with family and friends who live far away, people send out nengajo, (this is comparable to the practice of sending out Christmas cards in the States.) Nengajo is a postcard that usually depicts the next years’ Chinese zodiac animal on it with a short greeting. 2011 will be the year of the rabbit, so keep your eye out in stationary shops for postcards with rabbits on them to send out or make your own! (Read more about the Chinese zodiac on p 39. Greetings like akemashite omedetou gozaimasu! (あけま しておめでとうございま す, happiness to you in the New Year!) or kotoshi mo yoroshiku onegaishimasu! ( 今年もよろしくお願いし ます, I hope for your favor in the next year!) can be written on nengajo along with a personal message written on the back. It is also important that these cards arrive on New Year’s day, and post offices will ensure this arrival date if you mark them with the word nengajo (年賀 状) in red and bring them at least a week before then. Wikipedia claims that because there are so many cards sent out, post offices hire extra students part-time to bike around and deliver nengajo on New Years, so see if some of your students made a little extra cash over the holidays.

osechi-ryori (お節料 理), though osechi can also be bought, and you can see boxes of it at stores before New Years.

Here are some common foods found in osechi and their meanings: Konbu (昆布) is a type of seaweed Photo: Matt Reinbold and is associated with the word yorokobu (喜ぶ) meaning joy. Kuromame (黒豆) which are stewed black beans. Mame also means “health,” symbolizing good health in the New Year. Tazukuri (田作り) is dried sardines cooked in soy sauce. The kanji in this word translates literally to “rice paddy maker” and symbolizes an abundant harvest. Datemaki (伊達巻き) is a sweet rolled omelette and is said to look like a rolled scroll. It represents gaining wisdom. Kazunoko (数の子) is herring roe and is meant to bring many children. Toshi koshi soba (年越し蕎麦) means “year-crossing soba” and is eaten on New Year’s Eve to represent ringing in the New Year, but Wikipedia thinks that it’s also eaten because it’s easy to make and most people are tired after making tons of osechi.

Businesses, including banks, will shut down - so be sure to take out money in advance

Food eaten during the New Year’s holidays is chosen specifically because each kind has a symbolic meaning. The days before Jan. 1 are typically spent cleaning the entire house and cooking lots of food called osechi or

the refill | December 2010 / January 2011

People often ring in the New Year by visiting a nearby temple or shrine, sometimes wearing kimono. It is also a tradition to stay up all night to watch the first sunrise and the first dream (hatsuyume 初夢) can tell what kind of luck to expect in the New Year. Images like Mt. Fuji, hawks, eggplants and Jimmy Wales’s profile all signify good things. So please, use your good fortune and donate to Wikipedia, which consistently provides you with priceless information, including everything in this article. Keliko Adams is a second-year ALT living in Yukuhashi and working in Miyako. She makes contributions to Wikipedia (and hopes you will too!)

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Recipes Pumpkin bread (recipe from allrecipes.com)

Caitlyn Tateishi gets all sentimental with this delicious seasonal recipe for pumpkin bread

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hen I think back to my university years in Oregon during the autumn and winter, I think of pumpkin bread. Nothing beat a slice of pumpkin bread with a cup of coffee or tea for breakfast on a chilly morning or, more likely, stuffing it in my mouth as I furiously biked to campus for an early class. In Japan, one may be discouraged because canned pumpkin doesn’t exist, and pumpkin bread recipes must be totally from scratch (gasp!) starting with the raw pumpkin. Not to fear! Kabocha makes for a perfect and more healthy substitute for canned pumpkin and it’s just an extra 15-minute step! I guarantee you that the warm smell of cinnamon, nutmeg and allspice will make your home feel extra cozy during those cold December and January days.

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Prep time: 15 minutes to prepare the pumpkin puree.

Ingredients: • 1 1/2cups flour • 1/2 tsp salt • 1 cup sugar • 1 tsp baking soda • 1/2 cup olive oil (or butter)* • 2 eggs* • 1/4 cup water* • 1/2 tsp nutmeg* • 1/2 tsp cinnamon* • 1/2 tsp allspice* • 1 cup pumpkin puree* (you only need a portion of the raw kabocha; it is saran-wrapped and is available at supermarkets)

Directions: Step 1: Preheat your oven to 180 degrees celsius. Step 2: Remove the seeds of the kabocha and cut it into 1-inch squares. I keep the outside of the pumpkin on; if you would like to remove it you can. Steam for about 15 minutes. Place in a bowl and smash the kabocha, adding a small amount of the water that you steamed it with until it looks “pureed”. Step 3: Mix all the asterisk ingredients together with your handy electric mixer, or you can just mix furiously by hand. Step 4: Add the rest of the ingredients. Step 5: Put mixture in a greased bread pan (9x5x3 inch pan) and bake for 50-60 minutes. Step 6: Let it cool. Supposedly this bread tastes better a day after its baked. I think it’s awesome the day of, the day after and the day after that!

Photo: Caitlyn Tateishi

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Nabe Julia Johnston shares a few tips on making this classic Japanese winter dish

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ince the Japanese don’t insulate their homes, they tend to insulate their bodies. Nabe is one of the ways they do it. Nabe is a Japanese hot pot made from soup stock, vegetables, meat and fish that is eaten during winter. There is no ‘right way’ to make nabe. Most regions in Japan have their own versions and it’s okay to be creative and try out your own flavorful variations. Follow this easy guide to master nabe and help yourself get through winter. If you have a portable stove you can sit around a table or kotatsu with friends and cook and eat the nabe simultaneously. Mmmmm. Ingredients:

• Nabe base. The Kyushu region is famous for

• •

mizutaki 水炊き, which is pictured here, but there are a variety of flavors available at all supermarkets. Try the kimchi nabe for spice or Fukuoka’s popular motsu nabe for those who can stomach... stomach. If you’re feeling adventurous and have time to kill, you can also try making your own broth. Meat and vegetables. This can really be anything you like but for guidance, copy the meat and vegetable choices pictured on your nabe broth packet. Some supermarkets place stickers on certain cuts of meats or vegetables to indicate that those ingredients go well in nabe. Rice or noodles. After you’ve eaten most of the filling in your nabe add rice or some noodles to your leftover broth for a tasty finisher. A nabe or pot. The two most popular types of pots are clay donabe or cast iron testunabe. However, any deep pot you have will work.

Directions: Step 1: Heat your broth in your nabe pot. Once it starts to boil, add pieces of meat. Step 2: Once the meat has cooked, add your vegetables. Add firm vegetables like carrots, mushrooms and spring onion first then arrange your leafy vegetables like cabbage over the top. This will allow the cabbage to steam and wilt without overcooking. If you’re using very thin slices of meat, you can add them at the vegetable stage. Step 3: Place the lid on your nabe pot and let it simmer on medium heat for about 10 minutes. Step 4: Take off the lid, check that your vegetables are cooked to your liking and it’s ready to go!

How to eat nabe: Step 1: Spoon a little of all ingredients into individual bowls and eat immediately. For extra flavor you can use a dipping sauce such as ponzu or add a spice to your soup such as yuzu gosho. Step 2: Once you’ve finished the meat and vegetables, reheat the remaining soup and add cooked rice or noodles then a beaten egg on top. Let this absorb some of the broth for a flavorful filling.

the refill | December 2010 / January 2011 Photos: Julia Johnston

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Opinion

Embracing

CULTURE Nobu Tanaka ponders some of the differences between Japanese and Western culture

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eing away from Japan is not a hard thing to do. I went to Taiwan for a home-stay for two weeks without my family when I was a junior high school student. It was a big decision for a little boy. I couldn’t talk with my host family because they only spoke Mandarin and English, and I only spoke Japanese. We communicated with gestures, which was frustrating. It was my first exposure to a community that did not speak the same language as me. I had studied English for two years before that, with a Japanese English teacher. I knew some vocabulary, but communicating with someone was a totally different world. I think everybody in Japan should experience that feeling, so that Japanese people can understand the feelings of foreigners living in Japan. Some people said to me, “if foreigners come to Japan, they should speak Japanese.” I think foreigners in Japan try to study Japanese, but it is hard to learn a second language. Well, unfortunately, I heard the same sentiment in the United States regarding non-English speakers.

and Eastern culture is personal space. When I arrived in Boone, North Carolina, I was a little bit intimidated about hugging people because when I hugged someone, I had to get so much closer than I’m used to. Although there are so many people in a train at rush hour in Japan and people are so close to each other, we still keep our personal space. I lived in the United States for four years, and I love to hug people now because I feel so warm and at peace. I wish everyone all over the world would start hugging each other so we don’t have to fight each other. I saw MasterCard’s TV commercial and a couple consisting of an Asian lady and a western guy appeared and her parents came to see them at an airport. The western guy hugged her father who looked awkward a little bit, and I thought “it is so true.” I have never hugged my parents. Each time when someone asks me about this topic, they say it is so sad. When I was writing this paper I mistyped “embrace” instead of “embarrass.” I wrote the sentences “My grandfather was mayor of my town, and I couldn’t embrace him.” And “It is also because people don’t want to be embrace their family.” My friend told me this is funny because the mistake was kind of related to my topic.

99.8 percent of the population is Japanese in Japan. Everybody thinks the same way and acts the same way. If a person acts differently, the person A lot of Japanese would be disrespected. people go traveling An interesting thing is internationally as little that foreigners seem to as two or three days, be a bit of an exception. because they can’t get Unfortunately, a lot of time off from work. people think they are the They really enjoy going Scenes from Saigawa, Fukuoka (this page) and Boone, North Carolina (opposite). Photos: Nobu Tanaka guests and don’t have to to foreign countries to follow Japanese rules - and sight-see and spend a lot Japanese people are OK of money, and then the with that. I wish Japanese next day they go back to people would think all nationalities are the same people. work. They work for a long time, which is often inefficient, Thinking the same way is sometimes good. For instance, because they don’t have time to think and therefore can’t Japan has a lower crime rate, compared to the rest of world. make improvements, such as working at home or having It is because people don’t want to embarrass their family. less unnecessary meetings. This is the tradition of working We put a priority on the community rather than individuals. in Japanese society. If people can take more time off to explore other cultures, they would have an increased I choose to be outside of the circle because I don’t want to respect for other cultures, and can bring back a broader be Tanaka. I want to be Nobu. I love my family, but I wanted perspective to their society. people to recognize me rather than my family name. When I was little, I pretended to be a good student. My grandfather Going away from Japan can be so easy, if the society will was the mayor of my town, and I couldn’t embarrass him. change a bit. So, get a passport, grab some of the cash you I didn’t dye my hair, modify my uniform, smoke or drink have saved for so long, get a ticket and let’s go! alcohol. But inside, I was totally against the restrictions placed upon me. Nobu Tanaka is a photographer and does tech support in Boone, NC, USA. His artwork can be found From my experience, a difference between Western culture at www.nobutanakaphoto.com.

the refill | December 2010 / January 2011

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Photo: Horia Vorlan

What is our

purpose here as JETs? Holly Parker discusses internationalization and globalisation and how these concepts relate to us as JETs

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urpose is a powerful thing. Few things are accomplished without a sense of purpose. Over my first four months in Japan, I have been asking myself, other JETs, friends in New Zealand, some Japanese people, what our purpose is as JETs.

Is it to provide novelty value in classrooms? To play games? To internationalize? What does internationalization even mean? Is it simply to show the differences in cultural protocol? Internationalization is, after all, what the Japanese government gathered us here for. But it is more than that. Focusing on differences is damaging to internationalization. A more productive method is to focus on the ‘same’, on creating a sense of global oneness, of interconnection, of being part of the same whole, both in terms of the ecosystem and the human family. To achieve this, we must go beyond the shallow definitions of internationalization and move towards a new purpose for the JET program. Teaching in the context of globalization rather than internationalization allows a far more realistic representation of the global system’s complexities, and will enable us to better meet the expectations placed on us in our role as ALTs. Globalization is an incredibly complex phenomenon, encompassing social, cultural, political, economic and

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historic processes. It is the growing interconnectivity of our world, and is without a doubt the most important ‘thing’ happening on earth. Given our ever-increasing connectivity, and the many problems and responsibilities that come with it, we need to work together to fully cope with the global scope of issues such as climate change, food crises, ecological degradation, deforestation, etc.

Myths of cultural separatism and superiority must go. They are counter-productive to what must be an overarching goal of survival for our species. I am not talking exclusively about Japan here, but the world at large. I absolutely see that this assertion coming from the ‘Western’ English-speaking world is hypocritical, as it is by and large our politicians and our practices (Japan included) which have led to the global circumstances we ALL find ourselves in. But that’s just the way it goes, I guess. So, how does JET fit in? From what I can gather from the English-language media in Japan, traditionally the discipline of Japanology has focused on Japanese culture as ‘homogenous’ and ‘unique’, which is true, but as Debito Arudou pointed out in his Nov. 2 article, “‘Homogenous’, ‘unique’ myths stunt discourse” in the Japan Times (online), no culture can be ‘uniquely unique’. Along with many countries in the world, Japan (with the assistance of foreign visitors like JETs) seems to have carefully cultivated the myths of cultural separatism mentioned above, finally coming to fruition in the form of Japanese inward looking-ness. Assumedly, this has been the catalyst for the Japanese government to bring us all here for ‘internationalization’ purposes.

through which Japan’s influence on the world, and the world’s influence on Japan, can be seen.

I have been facilitating globalization lessons for a few weeks now, and am fortunate to have the support of extremely flexible and talented JTEs to help translate the more complex concepts. Incorporating both requisites (English usage/teaching and ‘internationalization’, although I have interpreted this to be more like globalization) of the JET program, the class, JTE and I read a (long-ish) piece of writing about what globalization is, taking the time to define words such as ‘colonization’ and ‘Westernization’ along the way; words of global importance. The point is to deliver real English, real world issues, and illustrate how they affect the students’ real lives on every level. We must all take an interest in globalization and global events, because our fates are all now inextricably interconnected. This is the sort of internationalization the Japanese government had in mind when it cooked up the JET program 23 years ago.

So the point? In a nutshell, our purpose here is primarily to internationalize, using English as the tool for achieving this. Globalization provides the most valuable and relevant framework through which to do this, and is consistent with the values and objectives of the JET program. As JETs we must undertake a real analysis of what internationalization means to the Japanese government, to JETs as a group and to each of us personally. The way to do this is to emphasize sameness, not difference, in a context of interconnectedness.

Focusing on differences is damaging to internationalization

So, what does the Japanese government define as internationalization? Is it different from what JETs are delivering in class? By and large we as JETs have been left to define internationalization for ourselves, and this lack of clarification has lead to criticisms of the JET program in the media. What we need is some consensus on what our role is here. What our purpose is.

How do JETs deliver internationalization? How. To. Do. This. ?. Each of us is in a different situation. We are geographically separated, which makes developing anything consistent extremely difficult . Also, each JET has different expectations and freedoms at the specific schools we are placed at. All I can offer is my own experience. Globalization is my tool of choice. It is a powerful way of seeing the world through the interconnectivity of global issues. Because English is such a key factor in globalization, it is easy to integrate English practice and teaching with internationalization. Which language was being spoken at the recent Convention on Biological Diversity conference in Nagoya? At APEC (Asia-Pacfic Economic Cooperation) in Yokohama? English, most likely. Globalization is a context

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If we fail to develop a working definition of internationalization, and a coherent method for communicating this, we will become nothing more than novelties in the classroom. We will be reinforcing the cultural separatism we have been brought here to diffuse. Our role here is to challenge the idea that the Japanese, or indeed any people, are profoundly different from the rest of the world. Our global fates are, after all, shared. In the words of a friend, “Maybe it boils down to this; the idea of internationalization is to expand perception and celebrate interconnectedness. But unless JETs are aware of their actions, approach and interpretations of internationalization, they are less like international ambassadors that expand connections, and more like sideshow attractions that reinforce the dominant paradigm of Japanese separatism.” Phewf. Let’s find a common purpose!

Holly Parker is a first-year ALT in Kitakyushu-shi. Please e-mail hollahback.holly@gmail.com to discuss your ideas.

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Should I stay or should I go

As the JET reappointment deadline approaches, Eryk Salvaggio weighs up the pros and cons of life in Japan

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home.

ome February, I will seal my future in envelope. For some, the reappointment decision will be simple: If you’re happy, sign up for another year in Japan. If you’re miserable, scribble “Sayonara!” and go

What about those who are in between, having fallen out of that jaw-dropping “sparkling Japan” phase but never experienced total cultural exhaustion? As a first-year ALT, how can I be confident in a decision made amongst traveling, home-sick mood swings and new-job jitters?

I talked to Mike Seidman, Prefecutural Advisor at the Fukuoka Prefectural Senior High School Board of Education, who is partly responsible for addressing questions and concerns of JET ALTs, and asked him what advice he’d give to people about reappointment. “The most important things to ask yourself are, ‘What do I stand to gain by staying in Japan’ and ‘What do I stand to gain by returning home’,” Seidman said. “Then you take a good, long look at the things on both sides and ask yourself the most important thing of all: “How do these things help me become the person I want to be?”

Feelings of frustration and loneliness - feelings bound to swell as the daylight wanes and the air gets colder - can cloud anyone’s judgement about these questions. The warm lure of nostalgia can make everything here seem cold. Managing your expectations is crucial. I applied to JET with top-heavy ambitions that, in retrospect, were destined to collapse when I arrived. And evaluating my life here from those expectations can make me feel like a failure: “You mean I’m not the best ALT in Kyushu?” “Wait, why haven’t I totally revised Japan’s English-language curriculum?” Ambition, meet humility.

Once I got rid of my blind enthusiasm for the impossible, I was left with lingering disappointment. Realizing my own inadequacies made me think back to my jobs at home - jobs

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I was good at and loved. I longed for a place where I felt confident again. But I could also see patterns emerging. I’ve had feelings of frustration at every job I’ve ever had, including those I eventually grew to love. Remembering that helps me through my bad days here. I’ll get better with time. I’m not quite ready to give up. Some expectations are worth remembering. Places to go, instruments to learn, language classes to take, projects to start. If you’re like me, you have a long list reminding you of what you’ve failed to do, swallowed by the process of adjustment and settling in. “Many say that they find the second year living abroad proves much more rewarding than the first,” said Seidman. “[As] everyday tasks and basic communications become less burdensome, it becomes easier to focus on life, create deeper ties and pursue personal goals.”

So, maybe next year I’ll get to some of those arbitrary goals: I want to photograph every train station in Fukuoka City. I want to learn the shamisen, hang photos up in Daimyo and speak enough Japanese to refuse the conbini clerk’s daily offer of a plastic bag for my coffee. The work can be hard sometimes, the environment frustrating. But there’s a lot of rewards - I love my students. I love the community that has welcomed me with extraordinary generosity and a patience I don’t always return. There is simply no excuse for me to be bored in this country. There are too many surprises. Enormous shrines tucked into the city’s tight corners. Amazing restaurants surrounded by rice paddies. A constant stream of new things to see and learn and study.

And so my work will become my home base. I want to challenge myself out of the drudgery that comes, I know, with any full-time job. I need to challenge myself not to end my day at the end of my work day. I realize I’m not tired of my life here - I’m just bored by my habits. Eryk Salvaggio is a first-year ALT in Fukuoka. He writes about life in Japan at http://www.thisjapaneselife.org. December 2010 / January 2011 │

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? “

Before going home Make a job description If you have ideas you feel you can’t contribute, or if you think certain demands are unreasonable, address these issues far in advance of the reappointment decision. Japan is vague, and we might assume responsibilities we don’t have. Work with a supervisor to make a list of your actual duties. Talk to your supervisor If you are unhappy enough with the job that you want to resign, ask yourself why. Make a list of issues. Look at each issue objectively and see which ones you can control. Raise the rest with your supervisor. You may find that things will improve. Find out what’s changing ALTs should also keep in mind that, in the spring, “Schools and offices will also undergo staff changes, which can completely change the dynamic at work,” according to Seidman. “Teachers will be transferred in and out of schools, and many of those that stay will be appointed to different grade levels. These changes can be unpredictable, but a new academic year, along with a new set of students and co-teachers, offers many ALTs a fresh start and an opportunity to try new ideas which may not have been possible to implement halfway through the year.”

The work can be hard, the environment frustrating – but there’s a lot of rewards, too

Evaluate your other opportunities The lure of graduate school and my career were both powerful incentives to leave JET. I’m anxious for my life to “start” and for my future to arrive, and sometimes Japan feels like treading water. But looking over the ocean gave me reason to relax. Money is not a good reason to stay with JET, but it certainly scrapes some lustre off of going home. Maybe you have opportunities that won’t wait. If you feel the need to jump, jump. Go home According to Seidman, “A trip home, abroad, or even just some time away from work is often just what it takes to clarify how your existence in Japan fits into the grander scheme of things. A lot of people find themselves noticing just how far they have come only after visiting home for the first time. For others, it helps them make up their minds that it’s time to return.”

Photo: Jean-Etienne Poirrier

the refill | December 2010 / January 2011

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Les adventures de

GAIJIN

#2: A sting in the tale by Big Silly Gaijin

Photo: Joren De Groof

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December 2010 / January 2011 │

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M

r. Gaijin felt he was acclimatising. He could walk into a cozy local eatery, greet the staff and choose his favorite cuisine in Japanese, all without issue. From his table Mr. Gaijin smiled and looked proudly out of the window, pondering his progression, both linguistically and culturally. Gazing misty-eyed at the changing autumn leaves he thought, “Wow. How far I’ve come since that first day.” Mr. Gaijin’s moment of reflection was soon interrupted as the Joyfull waitress arrived with his hanbaga, potato, and kola. Back at the flat, Mr. Gaijin heard a rattling coming from inside his balcony door. He tried to ignore the noise and carry on with his jigsaw, but despite his stereo blaring out Benny and the Jets, he still heard a buzzing sound: Wasps. After initially cowering under his kotatsu, he tied up his long shoelaces, strapped his satchel to his back and ran to the supermarket. Mr. Gaijin was unfamiliar with the supermarket. Since arriving in Japan there wasn’t a bento box from the neighborhood conbini that he hadn’t eaten. He soughtout the pest-killer he so badly needed and found a bottle with what looked like bees and wasps on it. ‘I hope this isn’t honey’, he thought to himself.

Mr. Gaijin decided to buy some groceries. He floated down each aisle, waiting to see something he recognized as food. He passed down aisle after aisle, his basket empty. ‘Yes!’ he exclaimed, ‘Tabasco sauce!’ More aisles passed until he screamed ‘Coco Pops!’ Frustratingly, that completed his tour de supermarket, and as the check-out girl passed honey, Tabasco sauce and Coco Pops through the till, a dejected Mr. Gaijin realised he couldn’t live like this. Once he got home, he Googled ‘Japanese cookery.’An hour later he had ordered a crate of baked beans. Meanwhile, the wasps were still gnawing their way through Mr. Gaijin’s door. He decided to visit his friend, Tanaka-san, whom he knew would be brave enough to eradicate his unwelcomed guests. ‘We’re going to break up your little love nest’, said Mr. Gaijin tauntingly in the direction of the door. He still loved his own jokes.

Mr. Gaijin arrived at Tanaka-san’s house, armed with a pencil, paper and the bottle of honey. Diagrams were drawn and honey was spooned out as Mr. Gaijin tried in vain to convey the situation to Tanaka-san, who looked perplexed. “There is a wasp at your door?” he asked, “A wasp? You want me to kill a wasp?” “Yes,” confirmed Mr. Gaijin, “Please, I’m going crazy.” “There is a wasp at your door that you want me to kill? I don’t understand,” continued Tanaka with a troubled expression.“A White Anglo Saxon Protestant is at your door and you want me to kill him!?”

Mr. Gaijin retreated towards the genkan, picked up the honey and headed home to exchange it for a dictionary... “Wasp, (insect). hachi.”

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Entertainment

Event guide compiled by Keliko Adams

Photo: Masayoshi Sekimura

Do not miss New Year’s Day January 1

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N

ew Year’s Day (oshougatsu お正月) is the most important day of the year in Japanese tradition. Most Japanese visit a shrine or three (never two!) and pray for the New Year. New Year’s Eve (oomisoka 大晦日) is the second-most important day because it is the final day of the old year. Many do a thorough house cleaning before New Year’s Eve, called ousouji (大掃除). The purpose of all this is to get ready to welcome in the new year with everything — including people’s minds and bodies — in a fresh, clean state, making everything ready for the new beginning that New Year’s Day. A regu¬lar feature of New Year’s Eve starts at 19:30 when public broadcaster NHK airs Kouhaku Uta Gassen (“Red vs. White Singing Contest”), one of the country’s most-watched television programs. For more information on New Year’s in Japan, read the article on p. 25! December October/November 2010 / January 2011 2010 │

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December Marine Christmas at Marine World Higashi-ku, Fukuoka City, December 1 – 25 Divers in Santa suits will be bringing presents to all the fish who have been good this year. Other events include a romantic night-time dolphin show and candle-making.

Tao Fukuoka Sun Palace, December 20 Since forming 17 years ago, TAO’s modern take on traditional Japanese drumming has won plaudits worldwide, and they have performed to a total of 4 million people in 400 cities in 17 countries.

January

Tamaseseri (玉せせり) Hakozaki Shrine, Fukuoka City, January 3 Several hundred men wearing loin cloths compete on piggyback in two teams, the “sea” team and the “land” team for possession of a wooden ball. If the sea team wins, a bountiful fishing catch is predicted for the year; if the land team wins a rich harvest is predicted. Daizenji Tamataregu (大善寺) Kurume City, January 7 The ‘Demon Night’ is one of Japan’s three major bonfire festivals. When a bell rings at 21:00 the fire is lit with a 13-meter (40 foot) long torch as men in traditional garb circle the grounds.

Tenmangu Kowakamai Setaka, Fukuoka Prefecture, January 20 Performances of the oldest style of bugaku in Japan. The dances performed here are said to be the forerunners of later styles.

February

Nagasaki Lantern Festival Nagasaki City, Nagasaki Prefecture, January 3 – 17 About 15,000 colorful lanterns and objects decorate the excity of Nagasaki during the festival, and traditional Chinese performances take place in various locations. The 8m high main object placed at Minato Park depicts rabbits this year. Sapporo Yuki Matsuri Sapporo City, Hokkaido Prefecture, January 7 – 11 The Sapporo Snow Festival is one of Japan’s largest and most distinctive winter events, featuring spectacular snow and ice sculptures and attracting more than two million visitors from Japan and across the world.

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Shinwa no Takachiho Kenkoku Matsuri Takachiho, Miyazaki Prefecture, February 11 Celebrates the mythical ‘founding of the nation’ day with a ‘goddess’ contest and a beard contest.

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Confessions of a drama queen

Sarah Davis’s user-friendly guide to Japanese dramas

A

s lights are taken from the Christmas trees and the last bits of tinsel and glitter from New Year’s parties are swept away, one questions how to fill the cold, empty gap between the holidays’ end and the gleaming beacon that is spring. But FEAR NOT! For just around the corner, TV will fill up with specials to promote the latest batch of dramas.

Drama (ドラマ) is a staple of Japanese TV, and each of the major broadcasting networks feature a nightly schedule full of them. Japanese dramas are shorter than their Western counterparts. A season, around 10 to 15 episodes, contains one complete story arc. It is rare for a series to have a second season, although the network will try if a drama is obscenely popular. Unlike Western (or American) TV there are no re-runs to fill time for an entire summer. Most networks follow the seasonal rule with winter dramas airing from January to March, spring dramas April through June, summer dramas July through September and fall ends the year from October to December. Rarely starting on the hour mark, dramas air in the 9, 10 and 11 p.m. slots.

All of this excludes NHK’s yearlong historical Sunday dramas, aka taiga dramas. (Taiga means “big river.” This has no relation to drama, but gives the impression of something big to the native Japanese speaker.) NHK runs a yearlong drama in 45-minute installments every Sunday, and repeat on the following Saturday. So, if you missed an episode, you can catch up the day before the new installment. All of these dramas are based on Japanese history before Westernization, modernization and Matthew Perry. To be chosen as a lead in these taiga dramas often means you are viewed as a truly talented actor compared to the many talents/idols/etc that fill the market for most dramas. It marks you as a rising star, someone that people should pay attention to.

Sarah’s recommendations Hana Yori Dango Ryoma-Den (pictured) Ryusei no Kizuna Tokyo Love Story Wataru Seiken Oni Bakari GTO Gokusen Love Generation Hero Hitotsu Yane no Shita Ai to Iu Nano Moto ni Kinpachi Sensei 8 Aibou Hyaku Ikkai-me No Propose

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Most dramas aren’t picked up and dubbed or subtitled (i.e. subbed) into English, but loads of fans distribute subbed English downloads on the Internet. They often don’t charge for the service but prefer that you download episodes from their sites or link to their files, as opposed to streaming them through mirror sites. So curl up with your computer or TV and kotatsu (and maybe a beer) to enjoy this season’s and previous seasons batch of dramas. USEFUL RESOURCES: wiki.d-addicts.com www.d-addicts.com community.livejournal.com/jdramas

Sarah is an elementary school ALT going on her third year in Japan. When she’s not answering questions about alien encounters and other American customs, she enjoys sleeping, dancing, baking, writing and drawing. She is currently on a quest to find cream of tartar and a good new drama. Suggestions? December 2010 / January 2011 │

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Confused? Read on... Photo: Anthony Crider

The Chinese

zodiac P

eople in the west are familiar with astrological signs. Most of them are probably nothing like me, whose decisions in life are either rationalized by the astrological wheel or decided by it. So you probably can’t imagine my delight to find that junishi (十 二支), or a Chinese animal astrology, is as widespread and vague in Japan as the Western astrology I live by.

The Chinese zodiacal calendar, or eto (干支), began as a way to mark time. Chinese astronomers followed Jupiter’s orbit and divided this celestial cycle into 12 sections, and each section received an animal name. For reference, each section lasts about one year on the Gregorian calendar. The 12-year cycle begins with the rat and finishes with the pig. Because this Chinese calendar follows a lunar cycle, unlike the Gregorian calendar which follows a solar cycle, the Chinese New Year is on a different day every year, usually somewhere between mid January and late February on the Gregorian calendar. People came to relate their birth years to animals on this cycle, so a person born in 1983 would say she was born in the year of the pig.

Similar to western astrology, Chinese astrology believes that

the refill | December 2010 / January 2011

Lindsay Pyle explains why calling your friend a pig really isn’t such a big deal

one’s disposition can be determined by the positions of the major planets (Venus, Jupiter, Mercury, Mars, and Saturn) at the time of birth. In short, it is said that you will have certain characteristics depending on the animal year you were born in. Because the full Chinese astrology is extensive and would require charts upon charts, I will quickly mention that every year also has a yin or yang polarity and an element (wood, fire, earth, metal, water). 1983, for example, is not only the year of the pig, it is the year of the yin water pig. This results in a 60-year astrological cycle. China eventually adopted the Gregorian calendar, but most people in China and Japan can still refer to years by their animal counterparts. February 3, 2011 will bring the year of the yin metal rabbit which will last until January 22, 2012. Your Chinese animal zodiac is usually determined by the Gregorian year in which you were born, but if you were born in January or February, it can shift a little bit. For more info, birth charts and history, check out: www.onmarkproductions.com/html/zodiac.shtml en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chinese_Astrology

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Chinese zodiac listings

Rat people are charming and attractive, and often have a wide circle of friends. They work hard to achieve their goals, are primarily driven by money, and are usually penny pinchers. Family always comes first for rats, and they are generally good with words (spoken and written). They are easily angered, ambitious gossip-mongers, and usually very successful if even given the smallest chance. Compatible with Dragon, Monkey, and Ox people.

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Ox people are patient and speak little, although eloquent when they speak, and thus, inspire confidence in others. They are mentally and physically alert, and typically easy-going, but can be real stubborn. They do well with routine and will work slowly and patiently towards a goal until the job is finished. They tend to be eccentric, bigoted, angered easily and hate failure. Compatible with Snake, Rooster, and Rat people.

Tiger people are sensitive, deep thinkers, capable of great sympathy. They can be extremely short tempered and tend to fight authority. They can be suspicious of others, but are often courageous and make great leaders. They are terribly indecisive: They either take too long to decide and miss the boat, or they make a poor, hasty choice. Compatible with Horse, Dragon and Dog people. Rabbits are articulate, talented, and ambitious. They are virtuous, reserved and have excellent taste. They like gossip, but are tactful and kind. They are admired, trusted, are clever at business and never back out of a contract. They are also financially lucky. They would make good gamblers if they weren’t so conservative with their money. Compatible with Sheep, Pig, and Dog people.

Dragon people are healthy, energetic, and excitable. They are the most eccentric of the eastern zodiac. They are honest, sensitive and brave, and for this they inspire confidence in others. They can be very stubborn and shorttempered, but they tell it like it is and don’t bother with flowery speeches. Compatible with Rat, Snake, Monkey and Rooster people. Snake people are deep, intense and wise. They tend to be good looking and a little vain. They have tremendous sympathy for others, and always try to help those less fortunate. They overdo because they have doubts about the judgment of others and prefer to rely on themselves. Compatible with Ox and Rooster people. Horse people are popular, cheerful and good

with money. They are perceptive, wise and talented, but they tend to talk too much. They love entertainment and large crowds. They can be hot-blooded and impatient, and they don’t often listen to others’ advice. Compatible with Tiger, Dog and Sheep people. Sheep people are elegant, gentle and compassionate. They enjoy creature comforts. They are usually highly accomplished in the arts, and at first glance, may seem better off than most. But inwardly, they are shy, pessimistic and puzzled about life. Fiercely passionate about what they believe, sheep people may be deeply religious as well. Compatible with Rabbit, Pig and Horse people. Monkey people are the erratic geniuses of the eastern zodiac. They are clever, skillful and flexible, with a strong will. They have a good memory and are thirsty for knowledge. They are inventive, original and can typically solve the most difficult problems easily. They tend to start too many projects and often leave them unfinished, and can look down on others. Compatible with Dragon and Rat people.

Rooster people are capable and talented deep thinkers. They like to be busy and are usually devoted beyond their capabilities, which is bad because they are deeply disappointed if they fail. Roosters are a bit selfish and outspoken, and they always think they are right (and they usually are), but tend to have difficult relationships with others and can be loners. Compatible with Ox, Snake, and Dragon people.

Dog people possess the best traits in human nature. They are loyal, honest and friendly. True humanitarians, dog people will do anything to help others, and they are very trustworthy. They inspire confidence because they keep secrets and they make good leaders. They care little for wealth, but seem to always have money. They can be selfish and stubborn and sometimes distant in large social situations, though. Compatible with Horse, Tiger and Rabbit people. Pig people are chivalrous, gallant and fully apply themselves to whatever they do. They strive to solve problems mainly because they hate conflict. They are honest, consistent and incredibly loyal. Pig people don’t make many friends, but they make lifelong friends, and anyone with a pig friend is very lucky. Pig people do not talk a great deal, but they have a great thirst for knowledge. Compatible with Rabbit and Sheep people. December 2010 / January 2011 │

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Reviews

Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows (Part 1) Cinemas nationwide



S

eries author J.K. Rowling said that the newly released “Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows (part 1)” was “her favorite yet.” Hang on, doesn`t she always say this? As a member of the generation that grew up with Harry Potter and seven books that guided me through my adolescent life, I always approach the movies with some trepidation. Surely no one can create the wizarding world better than I do in my own imagination? In this instance, I approached it with Japanese subtitles, a Japanese audience, soy sauce flavored popcorn (!) and an Imax experience to boot. I admit: My cynical mind was very impressed. I was blown away. The Imax may have had something to do with the latter, but the film echoed the dark and desperate atmosphere of the book, as the trio battle it alone against Voldemort and his growing army of Death Eaters. Daniel Radcliffe, Rupert Grint and Emma Watson are now accomplished actors, taking moving, poignant, terrifying and funny scenes in their stride. It is the scariest yet; if

the refill | December 2010 / January 2011

you have a fear of snakes stay well away (and even further away from Imax) and don`t ever again be fooled by silent old ladies who shuffle in snow. It`s dark. No Quidditch, no Hogwarts, no invisibility cloak, no English boarding school antics. It isn’t supposed to have any of this – true to the book, the movie demonstrates the desperation of the trio’s futile search for the Deathly Hallows.

One side note: If you haven’t read the book but you understand the film, my congratulations! With lines that feel like “Harry, doesn’t this symbol look like the one that I saw on that gravestone, which incidentally was the only one I swept the snow off and probably has something to do with that Gregorovitch that you keep dreaming about?”, I feel you need the depth of the book to fill in the gaping holes. The smaller magical detail placed in the film - selffilling champagne cups, bottomless bags and magically flushing toilets (albeit fabulous) are only a tiny fraction of the inventiveness and magic in the book. OK, OK, book plug over….

Sitting in the cinema, I could have been back in England. More British accents than I have heard in 4 months, stunning panoramic shots of Scotland and wonderfully British awkwardness (the dance scene anyone?!). The only thing that gave Japan away was the subtitles and the silent audience whilst we all screamed or laughed. Even the cinema is a cultural experience in Japan. I loved it; go and see it, but you might want to give the soy sauce popcorn a miss. Rachel Dunn

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Lauren Every-Wortman Mike Seidman Chris Harber Rebekah Randle Kacie Chan

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the refill?

Based on Fukuoka’s tradition of kaedama, in which a refill of ramen noodles is served for leftover broth, the refill serves up additional information about life in Japan for Fukuoka’s JET community.

contact us at

the.refill.fukuoka@gmail.com

The contents of this newsletter are strictly for entertainment purposes. The magazine cannot be held responsible for actions taken as a result of its content. The viewpoints published herein are those of the authors and do not reflect the philosophy or viewpoints of the Fukuoka Board of Education, the JET Programme or CLAIR.

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