Fukuoka JET newsletter
Issue #6
Teaching blind students │ Travel: Hanoi │ Recipes │ Events the refill | September/October 2011 1
Editor’s note
W
elcome to Issue 6 of The Refill, the first of the 2011-2012 JET year!
In this issue, you’ll find articles covering a range of topics, such as mountain biking through the country side, the top 5 summer vending machine drinks to look for (or watch out for), a mouth-watering recipe for rice-cooker banana bread and to-die-for honey-glazed tofu, thoughts on foreign loan words used in Japanese, advice for travel within Japan and abroad, and a guide to local autumn events.
In addition, check out our new section, Ask Professor Sempai! While being neither a real professor nor a real sempai, if you have any questions you’d like answered, send them our way and we’ll make sure they end up in the right hands.
We hope you enjoy this issue of The Refill and don’t hesitate to write us at the.refill.fukuoka@gmail.com if you have any comments, suggestions or ideas for future articles. Thanks, and see you in November!
Rebekah Randle Editor-in-chief
the refill #6 ǀ Sep/Oct 2011
Editor-in-chief Rebekah Randle
Content Editors Keliko Adams Lauren Every-Wortman
Layout and Design Hugh McCafferty
Copy Editor Eryk Salvaggio
Contributors Greg Addenbrooke Michael Allan Anthony Tanya Bogaty Tammy Burgett Eliza Han Emma Ichikawa
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Cassie Lealamanua Talia Nagatoshi Emily Rosenberg Fay Sandford Alanna Schubach Wenson Tsai
Cover photo: Wenson Tsai
Inside Photo: Greg Addenbrooke
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4 Short shorts
Lesser-seen Fukuoka: Mountain biking Top 5: Vending machine treats
8 In Fukuoka
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Art in Fukuoka: Kitakyushu
10 Travel
Hanoi Iki island Trekking in Fukuoka
18 Living
Japanese tips: Loan words Paradigm shift Recipes
Photo: Cassie Lealamanua
24 Opinion
Teaching at a school for the blind How far I will walk for nenkyuu
28 Entertainment
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Events Review: Ironhand’s Daughter Ask Professor Sempai Photo: Rebekah Randle
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Short shorts: Lesser-seen Fukuoka Greg Addenbrooke recommends another way to appreciate life in Japan
MO U NT A I NB I K I NG
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in the inaka September/October 2011 │
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he best thing is the sound. You can hear it when you are concentrating on tearing around a tight corner at the bottom of the bend and on to the next. You only have seconds to make up your mind as to how to throw your weight and bike in unison and pick a line as you make a complex and lightning-fast turn to face the next obstacle, which so readily presents itself as you skid around a bend. As you go, your speed increasing, blurs of color indistinct of form enough to be soothing fly by while you carve your way down a mountain and along a country road.
The inaka is a beautiful place to live. The opportunities and possibilities are endless if you open yourself to them. One of the opportunities I’ve invested myself in is mountain biking. If you look out your window, you will notice that Japan has no shortage of mountains. There is a lot of tar and asphalt too, so you may have to travel before you find a suitable place to mountain bike. Japan isn’t very big, so this shouldn’t pose too much of a problem. If
you go for long enough in any direction, I guarantee you will find something that suits you.
To be honest, there are many different categories in mountain biking – down hill; single track and cross country, to name a few. It’s best that one does a bit of research to pinpoint what style is best suited to you and your body type, experience level, thrill threshold, etc.
Biking is a great way to get to know your area and discover picturesque hidden spots in the mountains that don’t feature in tourist guidebooks. As mountain bikes are durable and can cover almost any terrain, it works out as a convenient and eco-friendly way to get to work. Additionally it’s a great way to sightsee and workout at the same time! And because Japan is particularly seasonal, the riding conditions are constantly changing and offering new challenges. Greg Addenbrooke is a fourth-year ALT in Nogata.
Photos: Greg Addenbrooke
Useful mountain biking links www.everytrail.com www.fukuoka-now.com Fukuoka Mountain Biking Community
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Short shorts: Top five
Filthiest vending machine treats of summer 2011 Photos: Wenson Tsai
Wenson Tsai gives us a sample of the vending machine oddities found in Fukuoka
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V
ending machines in Japan are as ever-present as the ever-present Big Brother in a not-so-distantdystopia. Except in Japan, these Big Brothers are more like Soft Mothers, nursing you back to hydration, open 24 hours a day. Usually, vending machines are imagined to serve a utilitarian function of last resort, but in Japan, companies put out versions with drinks that are not sold in stores, making them treasure chests of rare experiences just waiting to be discovered.
Over the course of a few days, I set out on my folding clown bike to find the cream of the crop in odd and rare treats sold in the vending machines dotting Fukuoka City, trying many on the spot but also pocketing some for later.
and realize the irony that I might not make the drinking party later tonight.
4. Kurosu Dorinku (Black Vinegar Drink) You know that feeling you get when you dive into a swimming pool nostril first? Your brain becomes a river of acid in your throat and coughing is the new breathing? Yeah. This little drink box is exactly like that, while gumming pickles in your mouth. If you ever need to test your tear ducts, this is a good option.
5. Ripobitan D (?) My friend and I were falling asleep on a long drive, so I took a sip and passed it over. It has 1000 mg of taurine (the stuff in Red Bull), but more concentrated, and 20mg of Here are the top 5 filthiest vending machine taste nicotine for good measure. It tasted like a pachinko parlor sensations for the summer in no particular covered in highlighter ink. When my face finally order. unfolded from the flavor, I opened my eyes to a brand new world. I was a jungle jaguar 1. Asa Meshi Zerii (Breakfast Jelly) perched on the tallest branch searching Breakfast in jelly form with all your for the tastiest tree sloth. I could see vitamins and amino acids? I’ve miles into the canopy. I could see into been wasting my life eating solid our collective future! The car was breakfasts where my body had to speeding up but remained within work so hard to extract the value, the mountain lanes, flexible and on drink names to like some kind of second-rate strong, like a pencil when you move find their prospector sifting for gold dust it up and down becoming a noodle downstream. I shook it ten times, of fortitude. My friend finished the vending like the label said, and swallowed last drop. Oh, the colors are so vivid! machines the glowing yellow slime. My real The corners so sharp! My tongue was breakfast that morning? Remorse. an ashtray in a bar I could no longer find. Why does he keep laughing? He just 2. Hotto Keeki Miruku Seeki (Pancake keeps laughing like a maniac! Keep your eyes on Milkshake) the road, friend! When I regained consciousness, Imagine if they took a 12 stacker of fluffy warm pancakes, I was home in my bed and it was night. My wallet and melted two sticks of butter on top, drowned it in maple iPhone were with me, as were my shoes and pants. My shirt syrup then soaked it in milk for half a day. Then, a stout remained tucked in, but my underwear was long gone. lady of the lunch-ian arts wearing a double hairnet comes by, grabs this pillow of flavor with her fibrous hands and Wenson Tsai wanders the streets like the homeless wrings it out through a strainer of ice directly into your man you’ve always wanted to know, and wanders mouth. Such is this sort of heaven. the world for the finest in potentially bubonicallyplagued hot-stone-cooked marmot cuisine. Presently, 3. Ukon No Kiwami (The Apex of Tumeric) he is dealing with his own aging, and pondering the The taste is sweet, syrupy, casually herby and slightly irony of how aware he is that one day he will get hit “ethnic.” I’m guessing this is in the same realm as the by a car because he’s too busy checking out beautiful Ukon No Chikara (Power of Tumeric) drink that many women, all while he continues on blindly almost claim prevents hangovers if drank before drinking. I don’t getting hit by cars checking out beautiful women. It’s understand the chemistry, but this liquid actually gives me very existential. Here are some pictures he’s taken: a hangover. Drinking this at my desk, I put my head down www.flickr.com/itswenson
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In Fukuoka
part three Kitakyushu 8
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in Fukuoka
ART
In the third of a four-part series, Lauren Every Wortman shares some of the best places to see art in Kitakyushu
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itakyushu has a reputation as a steel town, and for being the home of toilet manufacturing giant, Toto. That might be enough to interest you in a visit, but if not, let me assure you that it does have more to offer.
The art scene here is even more obscure than Fukuoka city’s, but Kitakyushu’s sprawling urban labyrinth is home to a handful of thoughtful art spaces. Whether you want to enjoy a peaceful view of Dokai Bay from the stairs of a museum, or go to a Sunday night video installation screening in “downtown” Kokura, don’t overlook the city of the north! There’s more here than meets the eye.
Kitakyushu Municipal Museum of Art (Tobata) With an awesome view of Dokai Bay, this space is worth the visit if only to tramp around the sculpturestrewn mountain paths and to grab a bite to eat in the pleasant café. This museum shows regular traveling exhibitions and boasts an impressive permanent collection, which is rotated through the gallery. It’s sure to have something new every time you visit.
KMMA Riverwalk Art Gallery (Kokura) Located on the fifth floor of Riverwalk, this gallery features some smaller traveling exhibitions in connection with the Kitakyushu Municipal Museum of Art. Check out the Hashiguchi Goyo’s woodblock prints until Sept. 25.
The Kitakyushu Municipal Museum of Art in Tobata. Photo: Lauren Every-Wortman
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Center for Contemporary Art (Yahata) This internationally known space hosts a variety of free lectures (sometimes in English) and events. Established as a global center for the research and study of contemporary art, the CCA
organizes collaborative projects with international artists. The space is small, but the artists exhibited are known around the world. Check their website for updates. Gallery Soap (Kokura) Grab a beer, go to a show, watch an art film – there’s not much you can’t do at Gallery Soap, if you show up on the right night. It’s hidden on the second floor, so look for the floor mat or you might miss it. **Warning: the English website is not up to date. Please put the Japanese website through Google translate for an updated schedule in English** D-3 Art Studio (Kokura) This is technically an art school providing after-school classes for students and their parents. They have a gallery that can be rented, so occasionally there’s a show worth visiting. You can even show your own work if you like! Gallery 130 (Yahata) Located in a refurbished bank building, this space is up for rent and has a wide range of shows. Give them a call to find out what’s happening, or just show up and hope for a pleasant surprise! 093-661-9130, Yahatahigashi-ku, Nishihon-machi 1-20-2, no website.
Idemitsu Museum of Art (Mojiko) This converted warehouse was built to house the famous Idemitsu Collection of Japanese painting and calligraphy, and East Asian ceramics. Exhibitions curated from the collection are held about 5 times a year. Check out their website for the updated exhibition schedule. Lauren Every-Wortman is a second-year ALT in Kitakyushu. She loves contemporary art, city parks, vintage clothes and mac & cheese.
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3 Travel
Hanoi
Cassie Lealamanua gives us a quick glimpse of life in the Vietnamese capital
Day 1:
The streets
It was a funeral. That awful, squeaky trumpet-like instrument that woke us at the crack of dawn was for a funeral.
Our eyes opened simultaneously followed by a groan-laced laugh. I stumbled to the window to find the perpetrator, knocking the air-conditioner remote from the nightstand along the way. From our second-floor guestroom, I had to peer hard to see him between a tangle of laundry lines, power cords and hostel signs but there he was, fiercely blowing into a cross between a clarinet and a vuvuzela. It sounded like a rubber chicken that had been fished out of a stream. Among the little men were at least two dozen smiling friends and family members dressed in white and piling three long tables in the alley with mountains of food. How they managed to fit all of those people, tables, dishes
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and a squeaky horn into that splinter of an alleyway I will never know. I run a hand through my hair and throw a remorsefully amused look to my travel companion. “So we’re getting an early start on the day?” “…Looks like it.”
‘Resting in peace’ is obviously not an international concept. The upside is that our inn provided us with free breakfast and we can’t believe what a deal it was. A private room with a private bathroom in a fantastic location with free breakfast, fruit, tea and Internet only cost about 300,000 Vietnamese Dong (under $15 US) a night. We left with stuffed bellies and a laundry list of places to see as we headed into the Old Quarter. The smell of spices and old lettuce wafted by as we passed the funeral party, but when September/October 2011 │
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Photo: Cassie Lealamanua
we reached the street we were greeted by a never-ending wall of motorbikes. Millions of them. Quite literally millions of motorbikes flood the streets of Hanoi. The roads are too narrow for most cars, and big automobiles are too expensive to maintain. Our jaws dropped in awe as we watched six-person families pile onto a single bike – kids balanced on handlebars or standing between the saddle and the foot pegs, mothers holding on to their husbands with one arm and an infant in the other. Crossing the streets is an adventure all its own, as the entire city seems to be devoid of traffic laws. No one stops for anyone. We watched in fear and envy as locals walked casually out into the sea of motorbikes, as if the machines hurtling toward them weren’t there. We found a little old granny in a straw hat and decided to follow her across the street – our logic being that a motorbike driver would be
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less likely to hit an old woman. She is carrying a long pole with two baskets of fruit tied to either end, which doubled as our force field. This is like a real-life Frogger game, I mused to myself. Brakes screech and I was pulled from my reverie.
Day 2:
Street food
She shoved the bowl of scalding mystery goop into our hands. I raised my eyebrow in skepticism. It is hot yearround in Hanoi, but that hasn’t stopped her from wanting to feed us boiling gruel from a nearby street vendor. The beads of sweat on the back of my neck gather in protest. “…what did you say this was again?” my travel companion asked, looking seasick but trying to hide it. I bring a spoonful of the steaming white substance to eye level and
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watch it drip in slimy tendrils back into the chipped little dish. “I said it was good,” she smirked, pulling over three miniature stools for us to sit on, plastic legs dragging against a warbled sidewalk. “I don’t know what it is in English.”
Day 3:
Ha Long Bay
It looked like a movie set – an eerie suspense scene for a fantasy flick involving sirens and pirates and a quest through narrow waterways. Around the next corner would surely be an enemy ship waiting in ambush. Or a CG waterfall.
Ha Long Bay is probably gorgeous in the sunlight. When those peaks slowly come into view through the fog, however, it is hard to imagine anything more exquisite. The dark shadows slowly appear behind a hazy curtain before taking form, their craggy edges only focusing once the ships are close enough for passengers to smell the limestone. The spectrum of greens in the moss would make a paint shop jealous, and they provide a striking backdrop for the deep red sails of traditional ships and the blues and yellows of floating ramshackle houses nestled between the cliffs. It did not take much to convince my travel companion that we needed to include this part of the country on our visit.
“Go to Google Images and type in ‘Ha Long Bay.’ …Whaddya think?” I did not have to mention that it was a World Heritage Site. When I first saw a picture of this place, it was in a Japanese travel brochure. I thought it was an advertisement for Avatar – and it may as well have been. The place does not seem of this world.
A little woman in a rough purple tunic and a straw hat maneuvered her fruit canoe alongside our vessel. She was selling something sour wrapped in banana leaves to one of the crew members and then Coca Cola to a tourist. The little girl with her was probably about three years old. She watched the surface of the water when her mother leaned over the edge of the boat to give back a handful of change. The little girl was clothed from the waist down in faded pink bloomers, her black hair falling gently along her shoulders. She seemed completely at ease in the rickety boat, despite how close it was to capsizing. She abandoned her reflection to play with one of the oranges but it was too big for her to lift with one hand. The tourist next to me snaps another picture.
Cassie Lealamanua is a third-year ALT who lives in Kitakyushu. She loves Lipton’s new “Honey Lychee Tea,” and is totally going to the ARASHI concert in January.
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The little girl was clothed from the waist down in faded pink bloomers, her black hair falling gently along her shoulders. She seemed completely at ease in the rickety boat, despite how close it was to capsizing.
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Iki
Monkey Rock: Genuinely does look quite like a monkey. Photo: Audrey Akcasu.
mashou
Tanya Bogaty goes on a weekend island retreat to beautiful Iki island 14
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here are many reasons to visit Iki island, such as sunbathing at a sparkly beach, eating the best sea urchin egg sacs around or seeing a rock shaped like a monkey. But I have one more reason: Puns! Iki-tai! Iki-mashou! Iki-mashita! The watercooler giggles this trip will inspire make it worth it.
Iki remains relatively undeveloped. I saw sun, sand and dazzling turquoise water, but I didn’t spot a single 7-11, Family Mart, Mini Stop, Lawson or Daily Yamazaki. We went on a three-day weekend, but it can be done in two if you plan the ferries carefully. Getting There The journey to the island was pleasant and relatively short. Iki is a short distance off Kyushu’s northern coast, between Fukuoka and Nagasaki.
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Ferries leave for Iki from Bayside Place in
Next up, a penis shrine: Have you ever seen a wooden carving that so closely resembles a penis? I bet not!
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Hakata, a short bus ride from Hakata or Tenjin stations. There is a Family Mart here, so you have one last chance to stock up on conbini goods.
Normal ferries cost 2,000 yen and take around two hours, while the Jetfoil takes 70 minutes, but costs 5,000 yen. I would have taken the cheaper and slower options both ways had it not been for some timetable misreading (oops!), but I liked having both experiences.
On the normal ferry, I enjoyed leaning over the railings of the boat, feeling the ocean breeze in my hair and scanning the ocean for wildlife. I didn’t spot much other than flying fish, but those little guys are fun to watch. I was a bit disappointed to be stuck inside the Jetfoil’s sterile airport-style interior on the way back, but I was happy to have a quiet place to sleep after a fun but tiring trip. Getting Around We considered renting bikes to get around the island, but rented cars instead. Thank
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god. The island is bigger than we thought, not quite flat and well…it was hot. There are some buses on the island, but cars are the most convenient option. Most car rental places will pick you up at the ferry terminal.
What to Eat Iki island is known for uni (sea urchin) and many restaurants offer uni donburi. We had some trouble finding restaurants – the town is not what you’d call lively – so our best meal turned out to be a barbecue we made for ourselves at our campsite. Still, many Japanese coworkers told me that the seafood in Iki is great, so there’s probably some delicious hole-in-the-wall lurking around some unexplored corner. If you find it, tell me! Where to Stay From our experience, campsites book early. There are plenty of minshuku (budget inn) on the island, but tents are more fun. Having a Japanese speaker among us really helped with the planning, but you could contact Iki’s tourist information center and work something out by yourself, whether it be a small hotel or campsite you are after.
What To Do What more can I say? Go to the beach! My favorite beach was another short boat ride from Iki. Just 10 minutes and we were in a more remote location with the opportunity to explore the gorgeous island of Tatsunoshima. If you’ve had enough of the beach, or are nursing some serious sunburn, there are some other interesting attractions.
For example, Monkey Rock. Have you ever seen a rock that so closely resembles a monkey? I bet you haven’t! Next up, a penis shrine. Have you ever seen a wooden carved penis that so closely resembles a penis? I bet you haven’t!
The non-beach activities on Iki island were humorous and plentiful enough to distract a gaggle of gaijin from the blazing sun for a few hours, but nothing to write home about…which actually makes this an even better weekend destination, because there is nothing you can’t miss. Instead, you can kick back, relax and enjoy island life. What could be better?
Tanya Bogaty is a second-year ALT in Chikugo. She erratically posts photos of her life in Japan (but mostly of plants) at tbog.tumblr.com.
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s I stumble to piece together this article, I find myself tripping over the same words over and over again. Trees. Heat. Nature. Beauty. The irony of having me write an article on hiking is that I don’t consider myself an experienced hiker. Prior to moving to Japan, I had only hiked a handful of times. It wasn’t until earlier this year, when a couple of friends asked me to conquer Mt. Fuji with them, that it hit me: you can hike in Japan. I can hike in Japan. To prepare myself for the epic climb, I trained by climbing locally in Fukuoka.
Tammy Burgett and Emily Rosenberg explore mountain trails in Fukuoka
These descriptions on hiking trails, while not completely informative, were made to inspire you to get outdoorsy. Hiking can seem daunting at first and this heat definitely doesn’t help the situation, but pack a lunch, round up a group of friends, bring your camera and you’re bound to have a great afternoon.
Gear Hiking during this time of year means sun and bugs. Since the heat and humidity get pretty bad during the day, most hikers set out in the early morning and aim to finish their hike before noon. When it comes to gear, most people hiking in Japan look as though they’re ready to take on Everest with their overnight packs, walking sticks, Gore-Tex boots and head-to-toe rain-resistant clothing. I’ve found that all you really need are comfortable hiking shoes, breathable clothing and the summer essentials: sunscreen, bug spray, sunglasses and a hat. Homanzan If you’re looking for a popular trail that’s easily accessible, this is it. Just hop on the Nishitetsu train line to Dazaifu (transfer at Futsukaichi). There are several starting points, but the main one is located next to the Dazaifu Shrine. The mountain is frequented by visitors of all ages and isn’t only known for hiking. There are a couple of rock-climbing zones and a camping site near the top, if you’re interested. On the day we went, we were surprised to encounter a few traffic jams on the trail, considering it was pretty late on a Sunday afternoon. But our attention quickly diverted to other things like having a snack break, examining the different types of walking sticks people were using and looking at the waterfall, so the crowds didn’t bother us. I’d allow at least four hours to complete the hike and maybe even throw in an extra 30 minutes to soak in the gorgeous views of Fukuoka at the top. There’s a shrine and more than enough space to stretch out, eat lunch and take a catnap.
Sasaguri 夫婦杉 (meotosugi) Challenge Course Don’t let the name of this trail put you off. While it does boast a steep incline, as long as you take breaks, this trail is doable for all hiking levels. If you’re feeling too winded, stop at one of the many shrines along the way. There is also a little shop owned by the cutest old ladies in Sasaguri near the top of the trail. They welcome foreigners and might even win you over with their homemade tsukemono (pickled vegetables). The trail starts at the Chikuzen-Yamate JR station and goes
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Photo: Eryk Salvaggio
for 6.36 km. But be sure to follow the correct signs; there are a handful of trails that start from this station. The online map estimates the hike to take 2 hours one way. When I went, I packed a bento and stopped at just about every lookout on the mountain, so the hike took me 6 hours round-trip.
At the beginning of the trail you’ll find yourself walking through a rather residential area, but keep trekking and you’ll be transported to the middle of a Ghibli film; trees are sky-high and lush, leafy greens engulf your every move, and enchanting walking trails lined with fallen branches and perfectly rounded stones guide your way. www.sasaguri-therapy.jp
Sarakura Mount Sarakura, in the heart of Kitakyushu City, is a great September/October 2011 │
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in Fukuoka hiking option. It offers eight different courses that range from beginner to advanced. My fellow hikers and I went on a sunny, warm day in October of 2010. Upon arriving at Yahata Station, we walked about twenty minutes to the base of the mountain. At the time, we were unaware that one of the trails begins there, so we bought round-trip tickets on the cable car and rode to Sarakuradaira at the 8th station. The other courses have trailheads here, but one thing to remember (another thing we learned the hard way) is that all the Mount Sarakura courses are one-way. No loop trails here! You can either hike from Sarakuradaira trailhead to the bottom, or turn around at either end and head back the way you came. We chose the Hanao-Hobashira Course, which is 4-6 hours round trip. This trail took us through quiet, spacious woodland and to open fields where we could watch paragliders taking off from the top of the mountain. The course was strenuous, but can certainly be conquered if you have even a bit of hiking experience. Now, only seven
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more courses to tackle…
Before you head to Mount Sarakura, we recommend you check out the website for course info. It’s in Japanese, but the course maps are pretty easy to understand. Good luck and enjoy, adventurers!
Tammy Burgett is a third-year ALT in Fukuoka City. As much as she enjoys being outdoors, she prefers eating cheese and drinking wine in front of her computer while watching K-pop music videos. Emily Rosenberg is a third-year CIR in Fukuoka City. She enjoys and respects nature, except for the pigeons that poo all over her veranda. Climbing Mount Fuji was the hardest thing she’s ever done in her LIFE, but she might be the proverbial fool and climb it again someday.
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Living: Japanese tips
NihonG Eliza Han explains some common loan words used in Japanese
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本へようこそ！(nihon e yōkoso) or welcome to Japan, to all new Fukuoka JETs! Now that you have been in the land of the humidity monster for a few weeks, I trust that you have managed to learn the names of some household items in Japanese? テーブル (tēburu) means table, テレビ (terebi) is the TV, and トイレ (toire) is the toilet, things that one cannot live without.
Such words are known as 外来語 (gairaigo), or words originally borrowed from foreign languages. In the Japanese language, there are three writing systems: hiragana, katakana and kanji. Japanese words with Chinese roots are often expressed in kanji, while those created under the influence of Western culture are written in katakana. Funnily enough, those of Chinese origin are generally not included in the category of gairaigo.
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of Japanese appreciate the existence of these gairaigo. For example, for a sports fan who speaks absolutely no Japanese, it does not take long to figure out what the sports commentator means by ワンダフルなプレー (wandafuru na purē / wonderful play). It always makes me wonder why gairaigo is used in such instances when purely madein-Japanese phrases are readily available and presumably more appropriate for the majority of the audience.
One of my friends from Japanese class back in university considered gairaigo as a way of compensating for insufficient knowledge of the Japanese language, and is very creative in incorporating its usage into, well, standard Japanese. Sandoicchi ni nani wo ireru? Mīto? Bejitaburu? Karoto? Kyukanba? Tōsto! Get rid of the Japanese accent, and you’ll realise that what my dear friend is trying ask is “What do you put in (your) sandwich? Meat? Vegetable? Carrot? Cucumber? Toast!” Despite the fact that not all of the above words are recognised gairaigo, our mutual Japanese friend had no problem deciphering the question.
Next time you are stuck for words in Japanese, perhaps you could try taking the English, slap on some Japanese-ness, and gairaigo-ise it
While you may think that knowing English would prove to be a huge advantage, there are times when that is not the case at all. I, personally, have difficulty pronouncing Fukuoka’s famous shopping complex, Kyanaru Shiti. Unfortunately, I am usually presented with puzzled looks when I give up coating the term in its Japanese glory and simply refer to it as Canal City. Another one of the many tongue twisters for me is ミネラルウォー ター (mineraru wōtā) which vaguely resembles its English equivalent, mineral water. If knowing English impairs one’s ability to articulate ‘Japanese’ words correctly, no wonder some Japanese people struggle with pronunciation when it comes to English acquisition. On the bright side, there are indeed times when learners
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Next time you are stuck for words in Japanese, perhaps you could try taking the English word for it, slap on some Japanese-ness, and gairaigo-ise it. If you’re in luck, you just might be understood.
Eliza Han is a third-year CIR and first-year PA in Fukuoka Prefecture who has failed to adapt to summer in Japan over the past two years, and sees the humidity monster as her nemesis. September/October 2011 │
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Match the pictures and the words
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l l
Activity
Sandoichi
Karoto
Mito
Kyukanba
Photos (from top): Arnaud Frauoli, Arnold Gatilao, Stuart Webster, Andrew Magill
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T
hings change. Pre-JET, I emerged from Middle Tennessee State University with a Spanish Language and Linguistics degree. Paying for it wasn’t easy and I’m allergic to debt. So, like many Tennesseans, I worked a variety of blue-collar jobs. The hours were flexible and I was often able to practice my Spanish.
Tennesseans (and Southern United States natives generally) are sometimes known for an informal, lackadaisical parlance – one part folksy wisdom for every two parts intractable honesty.
I’d grown accustomed to the reverberating sounds a semi makes as it leaves a warehouse: two aluminum doors slamming, metal clacking and locking into place, and a diesel engine growling like a tired old vacuum cleaner. My co-worker was an older, balding, white-bearded and weary brown-eyed man in a polyester shirt, blue jeans from two presidents ago, disintegrating leather work gloves and work boots covered in black packing detritus and a lit Marlboro Light cigarette clinging to his lips. He’d slouch with his arms limp to the side, exhale as though the smoke was the lifegiving breath of the Lord almighty himself, and then look at me with an obstinate smile: “God damn. We done?” “Yep, I think we’re done.” “Good. Let’s go home.”
It makes me consider the way I leave work today. Standing outside the sliding fusuma door in a formal suit and tie, stiff-backed, bowing slightly, then gazing into a near-sterile staff room filled with a diverse group of driven, intellectual, clean-shaven education professionals living in a culture where sometimes only merely using the world “please” (as opposed to something more polite) in a sentence is interpreted as being “too forceful:” 皆さん、お疲れ様でした。 [Everyone, thanks for the hard work.] もう終りますか？そうですか。お疲れ様でした。 [You’re already finished? I see. Thanks for the hard work.] はい。お先に失礼します。 [Yes. Excuse me for leaving before you.] 分かりました。気をつけてお願いします。 [I understand. Take care of yourself.]
Thinking about it now, if I’m comparing the two, “paradigm shift” is still a bit of an understatement. Unfortunately, English has no better phrasing, as far as I’m aware. So, it’ll have to do for now.
After 2 years, when I speak to my friends and family, they clearly notice – with warm, supportive tones in their voices – that I’ve changed. I’ll even make an assumptive leap and say we’ve all changed – and I dare say we’re all the better for it.
Michael Alan Anthony is a third-year ALT in Chikugo. He likes Supreme pizzas smothered in Ranch dressing, stand-up comedy, perusing Wikipedia, good books, Jenga, and admiring his students’ daily English growth.
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the refill | September/October 2011
M co icha ch nsid el an er Al ge s h lan d h ow A n is life lang tho in uag ny Ja e pa ha n s
m
ig
pa ra d
Photo: Wee Keat Chin
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Recipes Honey-glazed tofu strips Ingredients • 1 package firm (もめん) tofu • 2 tbsp honey, warmed gently • 2 tbsp soy sauce • 2 tbsp Dijon • 1 tsp fresh garlic, minced • 1 tsp chili sauce or 1 tsp chili pepper flakes • 1⁄4–1⁄2 cup sesame seeds, preferably toasted
Directions Step 1: Drain tofu. Wrap in kitchen towel to remove excess moisture. Cut block into 6 strips.
Step 2: If you have time and want the tofu to soak up more of the marinade you can freeze it and defrost it the day you make the recipe. To freeze tofu, place it in a freezer bag after step 1 and throw it in the freezer until you’re ready to use it. The tofu will naturally change to a light yellow color. Don’t be alarmed! It’s best to defrost it slowly in the fridge, but you can also use the defrost setting on your microwave. Gently squeeze out excess liquid after defrosting. Step 3: Combine all the sauce ingredients, leaving sesame seeds aside. Toss tofu in marinade. Cover and chill for 1- 24 hours.
Step 4: When ready to cook, dredge each cube with the sesame seeds. Grilling is the best option—just skewer the tofu and place it on the grill until the sauce begins turning a darker shade of brown (about 10 minutes). You can also bake for about 20 minutes at 170 C until bronzed and firm, or broil for 10 minutes, turning it every few minutes. Step 5: Eat over rice, on a salad, or with stir-fried veggies for some added protein! Great for summer BBQs!
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Photo: Lauren Every-Wortman
In an effort to spice things up a bit, Lauren Every-Wortman puts a new twist on tofu
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here‘s no better place than Japan to try your hand at the art of tofu experimentation. Maybe you eat tofu every day and just need a new recipe, or maybe this is the first recipe you’ve tried. Either way, this BBQ’d tofu is sure to tantalize the taste buds. Throw it on the grill with some veggies and you have yourself a healthy summer meal! Lauren Every-Wortman is a second-year ALT in Kitakyushu. A lifelong vegetarian, she’s been reinforcing her skills as a tofu-connoisseur since her arrival in Japan. Sometimes you just want some tofu that doesn’t actually taste like tofu, you know? September/October 2011 │
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Rice cooker banana loaf
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y rice cooker is a wondrous thing. I love it. Not only can you use it for rice, but it can make yogurt, steamed chicken or even pasta. Because I lack an oven, I like to bake with my rice cooker. This banana loaf is a definite crowd-pleaser and friend-winner. I stole the basic recipe from the internet and adapted it for my own preferences. It’s incredibly easy, please try it! Fay Sandford, inspired by the summer, wants to be a cockroach for Halloween. Aspiring mukade, get in touch.
Fay Sandford shares a new way of using your rice cooker to make a summer treat Ingredients • 1 1/2 cups white flour • 3/4 cup white sugar • 2 tsp baking powder • 1/2 tsp baking soda • 5 wee Asian bananas (or 2 big ones) (mashed) • 1 massive egg • 1/2 tsp vanilla essence • 1/4 cup milk • 1/3 cup sunflower oil • Handful of chocolate chips and/or chopped-up strawberries (optional) Directions Step 1: Combine dry ingredients and mix well.
Step 2: Dump the wet materials from the recipe on top of the dry mixture and mix until lumpy smooth. Step 3: Lightly oil or spray the inside of the cooker bowl with oil. Step 4: Pour batter into cooker bowl.
Step 5: Set cooker for slow (if it allows it) and start.
Step 6: Cooker may shut off after a few minutes. If this happens, just wait 5 minutes and restart it. Step 7: Cook for about 90 minutes (this could be anywhere between 2-5 cycles depending on your rice cooker). Step 8: Check loaf after about 60 minutes to see how it’s coming along.
Step 9: Loaf is finished when a toothpick/skewer comes out clean from center of loaf. Photos: Rebekah Randle
Step 10: Take out of pan and let cool for 20 minutes.
Step 11: Enjoy with a dollop of vanilla ice cream.
the refill | September/October 2011
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Opinion
Alanna Schubach learns to communicate beyond linguistic and visual barriers
Teaching at the Fukuoka School for the Blind
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hen I received my placement in Fukuoka two years ago, my predecessor told me that once a week I’d be “loaned out” to a school for the blind. Speaking no Japanese at the time, I was concerned about how I’d communicate with the students — at my base school, visual cues, gestures and body language seemed to go a long way toward making myself understood. I’d never worked with physically or intellectually disabled children before, so I tried to educate myself. There are some 100 schools for the blind in Japan; the Fukuoka Special School for the Visually Impaired, where I teach, is one of three in the prefecture. Many children who are born blind are born with some other disability, such as
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autism, which is evident at my school. I read such tips as, “Don’t speak too loudly—the students are blind, not deaf,” which sounded strange but turned out to be good advice. Perhaps in people’s anxiety to be understood by someone with an impairment, they’re tempted to yell. The idea that blind people develop enhancements in their other senses was a myth; probably, they just rely on these senses more than we do. I’ve noticed students who sniff pretty much every object given to them. I still didn’t feel prepared, so on my first day I was hypervigilant. My supervisor, who was also blind, met me at the bus stop to show me the way to the school. He had a gorgeous seeing-eye dog named Taft - after the American September/October 2011 │
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president, of all things - though the students used canes when walking. I noticed that when other teachers greeted him, they said their names (“Good morning! It’s me, Tanaka”) so he’d know with whom he was speaking (I don’t need to do this. My horrible Japanese gives me away.) In the hallways, everyone called out greetings to the students to avoid collisions, since the kids tore around the building like any other manic junior high student. When I was introduced to the students, a teacher described my appearance for them: kawaii. As with everything else in Japan, I had to learn as I went along. Some discoveries: Visually impaired children, at least in Japan, can play ping-pong. It’s called “Sound Table Tennis” and uses a modified ball with a bell inside it. I’ve been handily beaten by a 10-year-old. These students read and write Japanese and English Braille, swim, run races and in some cases pop out glass eyes and show them to me. There’s one student who enjoys doing this to startle me. The school is a combined elementary and junior high, and classes are tiny, with two or three students each. During lessons, listening and speaking go a long way. Students like to stretch the small talk at the beginning of class for as long as possible so that they don’t have to turn to the textbook (we use good old New Horizons, Braille and large print editions). Teachers are inventive in adapting activities for the students, making raised maps for them to touch for a directions lesson, for instance, or hiding an object somewhere in the classroom for the students to find and demonstrate they understand location words. There are special classes, such as “Life Skills,” in which a sample assignment is navigating to school without the aid of a parent. At the high school level, they can learn tactile skills like shiatsu massage therapy. About 40 percent of Japan’s acupuncturists are blind. One of my favorite aspects of the school is its familial feeling — a refreshing break from the formality of the academic high school where I spend the rest of my week. Because of the small population, everyone knows each other, and there are too few people to form cliques or indulge in bullying. I’ve seen touching moments of generosity — a student calming one of the intellectually disabled children during a graduation ceremony; the kids with low vision assisting those who are completely blind to their seats. Teachers are as dedicated as they are uncomplaining. In fact, it’s such a warm environment I worry a bit about what will happen to the students once they finish their education. But Japan seems to be making an effort to accommodate the disabled, something I’ve become more aware of since I began teaching here. For instance, most ALTs have probably noticed the tactile paving—the raised yellow bumps— on nearly every sidewalk, and the musical walk signals, meant to safely guide the visually impaired through towns and cities. For a country where difference attracts a lot of curiosity, it’s encouraging to see designs that include individuals with diverse needs. Hopefully this can lead to more interaction between disabled and non-disabled
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Photos: Alanna Schubach
Japanese, and the realization of a common humanity — something I’ve certainly experienced since working at the school.
Alanna Schubach is a third-year ALT in Chikushino. She is very proud of having used her free time in Japan to read War and Peace.
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How far I will walk for nenkyuu
Em m a th a Ich i i regi ng or t kawa l o w her n, her o abo earns s pers elf on a studen ut her ts ona n l jou unexp and rne ecte y d
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hy did I walk 35 km (22 miles) with my school on a Saturday during the hottest time of the year? Rather than “exercise,” “experience,” or “for the hell of it,” my reason was daikyuu (代休), a compensatory holiday on the following Monday for participating in the walk. It is summer holiday season and I spend most days sitting in the office with little-to-no work, so I figured a Saturday of physical activity beats a Monday of nothing. That, pathetically, was pretty much my entire decision-making process. Why would I walk 35 km with my school on a Saturday in July again?
I didn’t think to ask why my school did this walk, since I don’t understand why my school (and Japan in general) does many of the things it does. I finally posed the question during the walk to my coworker and friend Ryoko. She said it was about challenging one’s self and overcoming obstacles, both physical and mental. Basically, it was one of those very Japanese gaman activities: doing something not in spite of the difficulties, but because of them. Gaman (我慢), a very useful word, can mean patience, endurance, perseverance, tolerance, self-control and self-denial. It explains a lot about Japan.
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participating in school activities will help us become closer to coworkers and students and how gratifying it will be, but until this walk, my extracurricular interactions hadn’t been all that meaningful, with the recent exception of my brief but intense participation with the chorus club, a story for another time. My participation may have changed some perceptions, if only to a small degree. I didn’t complain or injure myself and, along with my abundant stamina, that seemed to surprise a lot of teachers. Maybe I should have been offended. They kept asking if I was OK, warning me how difficult the walk was (which would have been more useful a day earlier) and trying to gauge my energy levels, which remained high. One teacher tried to find explanations for why I was feeling so strong. “Do you play any sports?” No, I haven’t participated in regular sports since elementary school. “You must exercise a lot!” I walk a lot in my daily life and jog infrequently but that’s it. “Really? Well, you are very strong!”
I was strong that day. I am pleased about how well I did - my energy didn’t flag and I didn’t succumb to heat exhaustion, though I combated the heat with a wet towel around my neck and a plastic bag full of ice balanced on my head. A 35 km walk is no time for vanity. I didn’t even hurt myself after slipping on a rock.
When you are walking long and far, the last thing you want to do is slow down for a group of whiny 15-year-olds
It was technically a voluntary activity for first- and secondyear students and teachers. However, students in sports clubs were, let’s say, strongly encouraged to participate. There were about 200 students on the walk and around ten teachers, including our principal. More teachers provided assistance, such as preparing refreshments with the PTA, traffic control or acting as potential emergency vehicles. There was a girls’ course and a boys’ course, 35 km versus 36 km, through Soeda town and Aka village, which included a hike up and down a mountain partway for the girls but to the top and back for the boys.
I walked with the girls, along with the only other female adults who volunteered: the lone female gym teacher, an English teacher, a mother from the PTA and Ryoko. Two male teachers and the principal were also part of our group. Despite having to wake up at 4:30 a.m., missing a night out in Tenjin, and the resulting blisters and sore muscles, the walk was incredibly satisfying. For one thing, I got to see a part of my region I would never see otherwise, in a way I definitely would never choose to see it. My area’s pretty rural, but walking through the countryside on a beautiful day was wonderful. My local-born students made fun of me for taking so many photos, but I’m from a big city in a flat area, so the farmland, forests and mountains – the sheer greenness of it all – was spectacular. Then there was the bonding. We’re constantly told how
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I was at the end of the line with Ryoko. Our job was to keep lagging students on pace. It was frustrating: When you are walking long and far, the last thing you want to do is slow down for some whiny 15-year-olds. But the slowpokes and teachers became a little group, and we crossed the finish line together after much cajoling from Ryoko and myself. Some of the girls decided to try out their English without any prompting, showing they may be a little bit interested in me. At the end of the day, students asked me if I had walked the whole course and were impressed with the answer. Again, both gratifying and insulting.
I didn’t start the day intending to challenge myself or hoping to gain clarity about something or another, but I think the overall goal of the walk was achieved. I learned new things about myself, particularly that I can walk 35 km without too much damage. In the end, I had an astonishingly good time. Though days later I still have muscle pain and I can’t imagine my pinky toes ever not hurting, I know I’m going to do the walk next year, and even look forward to it. On the condition that I still receive daikyuu, of course.
Emma Ichikawa is a second-year ALT in Tagawa. She enjoys living in the countryside in Japan (surprisingly) and taking photos of all the soft cream she eats.
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Entertainment
Event guide compiled by Keliko Adams
Photo: Keliko Adams
Do not miss
Autumn leaves changing color Mid-October to December
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T
he custom of watching the leaves change color (momijigari, 紅葉狩) takes place in Kyushu and most of Japan at this time of the year. Like cherry blossom viewing (hanami, 花見) in the spring, these events illustrate the Japanese custom of appreciating short-lived natural beauty. Kyoto is one of the most popular places to go in the fall, as temples and shrines are lined with these trees. Closer to Fukuoka, Yabakei in Oita prefecture is another famous spot for momijigari. September/October 2011 │
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September Hojoya Hakozaki, Fukuoka City, September 12 – 18 Taking place at Hakozaki shrine, this festival began in 919 AD and is one of the three biggest festivals in Fukuoka. Events include a procession of mikoshi (神輿, portable shrine) on September 12. On September 18, doves, carp and other animals are released into lakes, rivers, mountains and forests to celebrate living creatures.
Shobun no hi (autumnal equinox) Nationwide, September 23 Not only is this a national holiday in Japan, but is also a time to visit ancestors’ graves and pay respect to the dead. This is also a time to celebrate the full moon by eating round foods like dango (団子) a kind of mochi snack, and attending full moon viewing (tsukimi, 月見) parties.
October
Saijo Sake Festival Hiroshima, October 8 – 9 This festival allows participants to taste over 700 samples of sake from all over Japan. Some breweries also host events, such as brewery tours and live music.
Asian Pacific Festival Around Fukuoka City, October 8 – 10 Celebrate the diverse Asian cultures around the Pacific Ocean with dance performances and world foods. Info can be found at www.asianmonth.com/festival.
Photo: Josh Berglund
Block 10 Fukuoka Day Out Fukuoka City, October 15 National AJET-hosted event that includes Softbank Hawks baseball, Asahi beer garden and clubbing in Tenjin. RSVP’s for the Hawks game have closed, but you can email fukuokaajet@gmail.com to RSVP for the beer garden!
November
Saga International Balloon Fiesta Saga, November 1 – 6 Days begin with launching of the balloons into the air in the early morning and end with lighting up the balloons on the field at night. Other events occur throughout the day. Fire of the Gods Festival Kagoshima, November 11 At Kirishima Shrine in Takachiho-gawara, this festival commemorates the descent of Niniginomikoto (瓊瓊杵尊). Events include kagura performances, taiko and bonfires. Photo: David Steadman
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Grand Sumo Tournament Fukuoka International Center, November 13 – 27 Ticket info can be found at www.sumo.or.jp. Fukuoka AJET also hosts this as an AJET event.
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Reviews
Author David Gemmell. Photo: Random House, Inc.
Ironhand’s Daughter David Gemmell Random House, Inc.
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hen I found one of David Gemmell’s books, Ironhand’s Daughter, for a dollar at Book-Off in Hawaii, I picked it up and brought it back to Japan for an easy read. I didn’t expect much because I had never come across any his work before. The summary on the back was simple enough: It was prophesied that the child of a great king would be the savior of the last of their people, but the only child left was a girl who had little interest in leading her overthrown people to glory. Boy was I surprised. Gemmell’s writing style lets the words melt right off the pages. You can turn off your brain and get sucked into the world he creates. His characters aren’t the typical kinds of people that populate an epic fantasy. The heroes aren’t perfect and angelic, but instead have their own insecurities and hang-ups. Only through the trials and tragedies of the story do they grow and become the kind of heroes that everyone is taught to look up to. The story covers the Highlanders, who were conquered by the Outlanders and are now ruled by the oppressive Barron Gottasson. To raise his favor in the eyes of the King, the Barron plans a war against the remaining “rebel”
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Highlanders. Sigarni, the Highlander heroine, is extremely independent and cares little for anything but her own pleasures. Her pride causes her to lose almost everything, but leads her to her destined path of becoming the Warlord Queen her people need. For revenge and freedom, she must fight her own darkness and rally her people against the Outlanders and unbelievable odds or die trying.
The beginning of this book had some wonderful character development. Gemmell’s many secondary characters are diverse, but relatable, and you can sympathize with many of them. I felt the ending was a bit rushed and that some aspects of the world he created, and reasons behind some things, were a little far-fetched, but I was definitely left wanting more. If you have already read Gemmell’s earlier work you might find this book disappointing, because it doesn’t follow the format of his other works. This book contains many side plots and the final battle isn’t as detailed as his others. I was heartbroken to find that Gemmell has passed away, and more dumbfounded that I had never read any of his works. I’ve started making up for lost time and have finished his first two books. I would highly recommend his first book, Legend, to anyone and everyone. If you want an easy read that sweeps you away, Gemmell is your man! I’m on a mission to read all his books, and the only thing preventing me is the amount of money left in my wallet. Talia Nagatoshi is a fourth-year ALT in Buzen. She actively needs to read books to maintain her English, otherwise her mother doesn’t understand her and calls her an FOB. Any fantasy and sci-fi book recommendations are always welcome. September/October 2011 │
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Ask
Professor Sempai
DEAR CONCERNED, I had a similar problem when I returned from Thailand after accidentally purchasing a cursed artifact from a street vendor. Look around your apartment: Anything resembling a monkey skeleton, or possibly containing monkey skeleton parts, is probably trying to get its revenge by dispersing a small army of mukade. You can throw the monkey skeleton away on Thursdays in a special “cursed monkey skeleton” trash bag.
Otherwise, the centipedes are likely breeding in moist Earth near your home and coming in through the doorway (Try removing the “welcome” mat, as mukade can be annoyingly literal), or through holes between your home and the outside world, aka “centipede world.” You may also have cracked drainage pipes, but we all know you aren’t going to look. Check for holes in patio screens, and seal windows and doors during rainy season. Sprinkle laundry detergent (Borax) around the corners and cracks of your rooms. If that fails, burn your apartment to the ground.
Once they are inside the house, the centipede is likely to challenge you to a duel. You must kill it before it kills you. Luckily, it can’t kill you. Nonetheless, there are no holds
Dear Professor Sempai, Where are all of these centipedes coming from? How do I kill them? - Concerned barred in these contests and you have the advantage of size. The centipede’s got its own bag of tricks, however, such as making you vomit when you look at it. Some people swear that you must cut the centipede in half to kill it. This means running with scissors, which is more dangerous than the centipede. Also, you have 2 legs, it has 100. Do the math: It can run 50 times faster than a human being. That’s right, centipedes can run 1,400 mph. The method of choice for centipede murder is to obtain a scientifically advanced chemical formula in a spray tin or beat it with a shoe. The advantage of the spray is that you can hold the nozzle down while standing on top of a chair and crying. You should resist the temptation to throw the can at the centipede.
There is rampant speculation that dead centipedes release a gas that attracts other centipedes to its defense. That’s just silly. If you see a centipede after having killed one, it is in fact a time-traveling version of the same centipede, coming to warn itself but arriving too late. As usual, the best defense is prevention: Before you pick up souvenirs abroad, ask the merchant if it is made from a cursed monkey skeleton. If yes, think twice.
Professor Sempai is neither a real professor nor a real sempai.
Photo: Maximilian Paradiz
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Based on Fukuoka’s tradition of kaedama, in which a refill of ramen noodles is served for leftover broth, the refill serves up additional information about life in Japan for Fukuoka’s JET community.
contact us at
the.refill.fukuoka@gmail.com The contents of this newsletter are strictly for entertainment purposes. The magazine cannot be held responsible for actions taken as a result of its content. The viewpoints published herein are those of the authors and do not reflect the philosophy or viewpoints of the Fukuoka Board of Education, the JET Programme or CLAIR.
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Photo: Lauren Every-Wortman
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