1. Introduction • Orientation Notes • Puppy School Mission 2.
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Nutrition and diet • Hill’s Pet Nutrition • Hill’s Science Diet Small Breed Puppy Food • Hill’s Science Diet Original Puppy Food • FAQ About Puppy Nutrition • Danger Foods • Greenies Dental Chews
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Gastrointestinal Worms Parasite Prevention Program Pet Insurance First Aid & Veterinary Attention
Training and behaviour • Dog Training • Mat Training • House Training • Dog Obedience Clubs • Delta Society • Life Skills Dog Training • Help! My Puppy Bites • Help! My Puppy Needs Life Experiences Exercise and play • Off Leash Areas • Backyard Fun for Your Dog
Contents
De-sexing • De-sexing of the Male Dog 6. • De-sexing of the Female Dog • Breeding Dogs • Preanaesthetic Blood Testing • Intravenous Fluids during General Anasaesthesia • Canine Hip Dysplasia & Juvenile Hip Screening 3. Microchipping • Microchips • Council Registration 7.
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8. Grooming • Grooming Your Dog • Washing Your Dog 9. Travelling with your puppy
Looking after your puppy’s health • Vaccinations • Fleas • Heartworm
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What are the disadvantages of de-sexing? Despite the numerous advantages for de-sexing your bitch there are also a few reasons why you wouldn’t have the procedure performed. De-sexing is a permanent procedure. Once a bitch is spayed she is rendered infertile for the remainder of her life and she will never be able to have puppies. If you are considering breeding with your bitch then please discuss this with your Veterinarian. We can answers any questions you may have, give up-to-date and accurate advice and help you with anything that will make this a safe and rewarding experience. Urinary incontinence. Some spayed bitches may develop urinary incontinence as they age. This condition can be easily treated with hormone replacements and happens only occasionally.
Will de-sexing affect my dog’s temperament? Spaying a female dog DOES NOT affect her temperament.
Should I allow my dog to a have one litter?
De-sexing
The temperament of a bitch DOES NOT change after having a litter and so it is not necessary to allow her to have a litter.
Will my dog put on weight after she is de-sexed? It is a common comment by owner’s of de-sexed female dogs that “my dog put on weight after she was spayed”. After the ovaries of a dog are removed her metabolic rate will decrease slightly. This is due the absence of the hormone, oestrogen. This reduction in metabolic rate means that the dog does not need to consume as much food as before the surgery to provide adequate amounts of energy. To avoid weight gain after spaying, the amount fed to the dog should be reduced. If you are at all concerned about your dog’s weight then please consult one of the staff for advice.
At what age should I have my bitch de-sexed? At Karingal Veterinary Hospital we recommend that most bitches that are not going to be used for breeding should be de-sexed by 6 months of age. The exception to this is in large and giant breed dogs. These breeds can be prone to a genetic condition called hip dysplasia resulting in their hip joints not forming properly. We recommend that bitches of predisposed breeds be de-sexed at 4 - 5 months of age because we can screen their hips for hip dysplasia and perform a surgical procedure to correct the problem. Once these puppies are 5 months or older the procedure cannot be performed and the puppy will likely go on to develop hip dysplasia. Please speak to a Veterinarian for more information about de-sexing your large or giant breed dog or hip dysplasia.
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Microchips Microchipping your puppy is the single most important thing you can do to ensure its returned to you should it get lost. By law puppies now sold by pet shops and animal shelters must be implanted with a microchip prior to sale, registered breeders. It is also important to know that is also a legal requirement that all new dogs registered with the local council MUST be microchipped.
What is a Microchip? A microchip is an electronic device that is implanted under the skin in between the shoulder blades. It provides permanent identification of an animal and its owner for the purposes of animal recovery.
Microchips measure 12mm in length and 2 mm in diameter. This makes them not much bigger than a grain of rice.
How Do Microchips Work? Microchips consist of a copper wire antenna bonded onto a tiny computer microchip. All this is encased in an inert glass capsule. The microchip itself does not possess any power source. When a scanning device is passed over the microchip the electromagnetic field produced by the scanner causes a small electrical current to be created in the microchip’s antenna. This electrical current in turn powers up the computer chip and it transmits a 15 digit identification number back to the scanner via the microchip’s antenna.
Microchipping
The microchips used in dogs and cats belong to a group of technologies collectively known as Radio Frequency Identification (RFID). Companies such as Coco Cola, Mercedes Benz and Samsung all use RFID devices to identify and track their products and parts.
Each microchip has its own unique identification number. There are in total approximately 550 billion possible code numbers. If one was to assign every possible number to microchips used in dogs and cats (i.e. 12mm long microchips) and lay them end to end, the resulting string would be 6.5 million kilometres in length. This is about 160 times the circumference of the Earth!
How Are Microchips Implanted? Microchips come individually packaged within a needle and plastic implanter device. They are sterilised ready for implantation. They are implanted under the skin between the shoulder blades. The procedure is performed as quickly and painlessly as possible. The whole procedure of implanting a microchip takes no longer than giving a routine injection such as a vaccination. It is our policy, as directed and recommended by the Australian Veterinary Association, that
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Hill’s Science Diet Puppy Dry Food (all sizes) Hill’s Science Diet Puppy pet food has a number of key benefits. These are: Increased amounts of Omega-3 fatty acid DHA. DHA (Docosahexaenoic Acid) is natural Omega-3 fatty acid essential in the development of the brain and nervous system in young mammals. DHA is a major building block of the brain and is a critical element in the development of vision and the central nervous system. • The primary source of DHA is milk from your puppy’s mother. Hill’s Science Diet Puppy pet foods keep supplying this brain building element long after weaning. It is also available in foods such as certain fish, eggs and organ meat. Hill’s Science Diet gets its natural DHA from easy-to-digest fish oils. Studies in many mammals, including puppies and kittens, have shown that enhanced levels of DHA help with brain and vision development. Science Diet Puppy dry pet food has an enhanced level of DHA. In fact, no other brand has better dry puppy foods with DHA than Science Diet. The inclusion of DHA into all Science Diet Puppy dry formulas is just another indication of Hill’s commitment to enhancing and enriching your pet’s life.
• Increased levels of high quality protein supports healthy growth and strong muscles. • Increased but controlled levels of vitamins and minerals such as calcium. This provides optimal balance for growth and development as well as promoting strong teeth and bones. The levels of calcium (and phosphorous for calcium absorbsion) differ depending on the type of food, ie. ‘Small Bites’ vs. ‘Large Breed’ , making it more specific to your puppies growing needs. • Natural fibre that promotes firm stools. • Essential fatty acids that support healthy skin and coat. • Appropriate kibble size specific to the size of your puppy to ensure no matter what breed, they will find it easy to chew. ie. ‘Small bites’ is a smaller kibble for small breed puppies.
Nutrition and diet
• High energy and digestibility. This meets your puppy’s energy requirements without the need for large meals.
• High palatability for increased acceptance. • Superior antioxidant formula that reduces oxidative cell damage, aids growth and boosts the immune system.
Precise Nutrition for Every Life Stage Whether you have a new puppy or the dog you’ve loved for years, caring for your pet properly ensures many happy years together. As you care for your dog, even the little things - perfectly selected food, exercise and love - can make a big difference. We want to be a part of your dog’s happy, healthy life, so we’re here to share information on proper nutrition, fitness and special needs. As you care for your dog, it’s important to remember that their needs change as they grow. Caring for your dog according to their life stage means you’re giving them the best care.
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Flea larvae are slender and about 2-5 mm. They feed on organic debris found in their environment and on adult flea faeces (also known as “flea dirt”), which is essential for successful development. They avoid direct sunlight and actively move deep into carpet fibres or under organic debris (grass, branches, leaves, or soil). They live for 5 to 11 days and then pupate. Moisture is essential for the survival of these immature stages of the flea; larvae are killed by drying.
Pre-emerged adult fleas can survive up to 140 days within the cocoon. During this time, they are resistant to insecticides applied to their environment. Because of this, adult fleas may continue to emerge into the environment for up to 3 months following insecticide application. When the adult flea emerges from its cocoon it immediately seeks a host because it must have a blood meal within a few days to survive. It is attracted to people and pets by body heat, movement, and exhaled carbon dioxide. It seeks light, which means that it migrates to the surface of the carpet so that it can encounter a passing host. Following the first blood meal, female fleas begin egg production within 36 to 48 hours. Egg production can continue for as long as 100 days, which means that a single flea can produce thousands of eggs. This entire life cycle (adult flea --> egg --> larva--> pupa --> adult) can be completed in 7 - 21 days with the proper temperature and humidity conditions. This adds to the problem of flea control.
What can these fleas do to my dog? If untreated, the female flea will continue to take blood for several weeks. During that time, she will consume about 15 times her body weight in blood. Although the male fleas do not take as much blood, they too contribute to significant blood loss from the host animal. This can lead to the dog having an insufficient number of red blood cells or anaemia. In young or debilitated dogs, the anaemia may be severe enough to cause problems.
Looking after your puppy’s health
Therefore, it is unlikely that they survive outdoors in shade-free areas. Outdoor larval development occurs only where the ground is shaded and moist and where flea-infested pets spend a significant amount of time. This allows flea faeces to be deposited in the environment. In an indoor environment, larvae survive best in the protected environment of carpet or in cracks between hardwood floors. They thrive in warm conditions such as occurs in summer. Following complete development, the mature larvae produce a silk-like cocoon in which the next step of development, the pupa, resides. The cocoon is sticky, so it quickly becomes coated with debris from the environment. This serves to camouflage it. In warm, humid conditions, pupae become adult fleas in 5-10 days. However, the adults do not emerge from the cocoon unless stimulated by physical pressure, carbon dioxide, or heat.
Contrary to popular belief, most dogs do not itch too much due to fleas. However, many dogs become
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Looking after your puppy’s health
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squatting, sneaking-off, heading to the door) occur, immediately take the dog to its elimination site, give the cue words, and reward the puppy for elimination. If the puppy begins to eliminate indoors, use a verbal reprimand or shake can, and immediately take the puppy outdoors to its proper site, so that it can complete the act. Rather than using punishment, it is best to always supervise your puppy. One of the best techniques is to leave a remote lead attached.
Training and behaviour De-sexing
When you are not available to supervise, the puppy should be confined to its confinement area. Be certain that your puppy has had a chance to eliminate, and has had sufficient play and exercise before any lengthy confinement. If the area is small enough, such as a pen or crate, many puppies will have sufficient control to keep this area clean. This means that when you come to release the puppy from confinement, it must be taken directly to its elimination area. If the area is too large for the puppy to keep clean, or the puppy is left alone too long for it to control itself, the entire area, except for the puppies bed and feeding spot, should be covered with paper for elimination. Once the puppy starts to limit its elimination to some selected areas, unused areas of the paper can be taken up. For owners that intend to continue to use paper for training, even when home, the puppy should be supervised when released from confinement, and then returned to this area when pre-elimination signs are seen.
Bashful Puppies Puppies that are not supervised and rewarded for outdoor elimination, but are constantly being disciplined and punished for indoor elimination, may soon begin to fear to eliminate in all locations in your presence. These puppies do not associate the punishment with indoor elimination; they associate the punishment with the presence of the owners.
Found an Accident? There is no point in punishing or even pointing out the problem to the puppy. Only if the puppy is in the act of elimination will it understand the consequences (rewards or punishment). In fact, it is not the puppy who has erred, it is the owner who has erred by not properly supervising.
I Really Need to Go! By regularly taking the dog outdoors, through the same door, to the same site, and providing rewards for proper elimination, the puppy should soon learn to head for the door each time it has to eliminate. If you recognise the signs of impending elimination and praise the puppy whenever it heads for the doorway, the behaviour can be further encouraged. Puppies that have been interrupted or reprimanded on one or more occasions as they begin to eliminate indoors, may begin to try to sneak away, whine or show some form of anxiety, when they feel the urge to eliminate, but cannot escape from the owner’s sight. If you can pick up on these cues, and take the puppy directly to the outdoors for elimination and reward, the puppy may consistently begin to show these signals when he or she needs to eliminate, and may even begin to take you to the exit door.
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• Puppy Friends. Maybe your puppy has some friends they could visit once a week, or who could come to visit them. Spending a day with a compatible friend is a great way to enrich your puppy’s life and provide some valuable socialisation. • Doggy Door. Dogs that have access to inside the house often spend much of their day inside feeling safe and secure and SNOOZING!
1. Training session - trick, agility, obedience 2. Dog sports eg. Agility, Flyball, Tracking, Sledding (Husky Club, Malamute Club, All breeds)
Exercise and Play
More Ideas For Environmental Enrichment
3. Doggy visitors 4. Doggy day care 5. Old balls eg. football, soccer 6. Rope toys 7. Cat food 8. Frisbee 9. Tunnel 10. Hanging toys 11. Pig ear 12. TV or radio on a timer 13. Treats in ice-cubes floated in large water container
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