THE
REVIEW ‘LIFE. STYLE.’
Alpine
THE
EDITION
SLOPE STYLE THE ESSENTIALS
SKI FIT
SLOPE SUPERSET
NEW ZEALAND
Story by Naomi Lake
Story by David Birtwistle
Story by Peter J Robinson
MILITEM FEROX-T ITALIAN INCLINE
Story by Aaron Edgeworth
TIME OF THE SEASONZ
MARKUS EDER
ROBERT BOSCH
Story by Jesse van Rheenen
Story by Angelika Affentranger
FREESTYLE
APERTURE AT ALTITUDE
W21/22
the alpine agenda
INTERVIEW
TRAVEL
CULTURE
P-6
P-16
P-22 P-3
MARKUS EDER
JAPAN
ROBERT BÖSCH
TRAVE
NEW ZEA
TRAVEL
EL
FITNESS
36
P-44 P-48 P-62
ALAND
ENDEAVOUR
THE USA
FITNESS
WORKOUT GEAR
TRAVEL EUROPE
AUTOMOTIVE
MILITEM FEROX T
P-68 P-78
STYLE
SKI GEAR
P-86
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ALPINER Words: Jesse van Rheenen & Peter J Robinson
Freeride World Tour champion, podium taker at Nine Knights and title holder of the European Skier of the Year, Markus Eder is without doubt, one of the worlds most versatile freeskiers. Parks, streets, mountains and backcountry Eder has proven time and time again that he is a well armed cross-discipline disciple.
MARKUS EDER SKIING THE PICTURESQUE GLACIERS AROUND THE HIGH PEAKS OF ZERMATT SHOT BY: LEGS OF STEEL AND RED BULL CONTENT POOL
I N T E RV I E W: M A R K U S E D E R
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RICHARD PERMIN, MARKUS EDER AND CODY TOWNSEND ARE DROPPED OFF BY A HELI DURING THE FILMING OF DAYS OF OUR YOUTH, IN THE TORDRILLO MOUNTAINS IN ALASKA
What was it about this sport that captivated you when you started? How do you feel about it now? The thing that got me hooked was the sense of freedom! Coming from alpine skiing where the path is truly beaten and you don’t dare get off it, all of a sudden I found myself in a world with basically no rules. It was all on us and we loved it. No coaches to tell us what to do or what not to do. This sparked an immense fire in me. Now the sport has grown and changed compared to the early days when I started. Still, there’s a profound freedom to my sport. You get incentivised to get off the beaten path to do your own thing. Our sport is incredibly versatile and creativity is a must.
“the Freeride World Tour BRINGS out the best and the most fanatic side of me”
Tell us about your collaboration with Alpina. How do you use this watch whilst on the slopes? I might not be like most other athletes. I mostly use the AlpinerX Alive which is an amazing smartwatch with all important functions but I’m not the guy constantly checking my heart rate and regulating my pace depending on that. I like to train by feeling. Feeling myself and my body and concentrating on that. I monitor most of my days in the mountains and see afterwards if the data matches the feeling that I had during the day. And besides all of that, the AlpinerX Alive is a unique and stylish looking watch to have on my wrist!
SHOT: BLAKE JORGENSON
You’ve competed in X Games, won the FWT and even competed in the first Olympic Slopestyle in 2014. What goes through your mind when you’re competing, are you focused on the line or do you let go?
SHOT: DANIELE MOLINERIS
MARKUS EDER PRFORMS A SWITCH RIGHT CORK 5 SAFETY IN ALAGNA
I’m super focused on my skiing. Especially the Freeride World Tour brings out the best and the most fanatic side of me. I’d hide myself in my hotel room for days, escaping from the outside world and even sponsor obligations to be able to fully focus and study my line. Most people simply see a rocky mountain covered in snow, to me there’s 1000 possibilities to ride it. I’m always trying to find something creative and unique. I wouldn’t be fully satisfied to ski and even win with the most obvious line. It has to be special. Something that nobody else sees. And when I finally do find it, it gets me even more fired up about studying each turn and hit and then finally ski it. I think that’s also the secret to my skiing. You’re highly accomplished but is there anything you still want to achieve from your career or have you moved forward
I definitely wanted to win that title, it was on my list for years. I didn’t just want to win, but leave a mark. One big part of the motivation going for the FWT Champion title was to know that I’d have all the support I’d need from my sponsors to pull off “The Ultimate Run”, a film project that I’ve been dreaming about for years. Two years, a lot of work and big mental challenges later, fortunately it ended up having quite an impact on the ski world. Before releasing it I was dubious, even afraid, of how to move on. Do I even want to go on with skiing? How could I possibly level up myself again? Do I want to take a year off and see? But now the season has kicked off again and I’ve had the time to ski a lot, I fell in love with it again. There are so many great experiences still to be made and it was clear to me that it’ll still take a while for me to be fed up with it.
EDER CROWNED WORLD CHAMPION AT FREERIDE WORLD TOUR FINALS IN VERBIER
SHOT: DANIELE MOLINERIS
with more lifelong endeavours since becoming Freeride World Tour Champion at the Xtreme Verbier?
MUTE GRAB AT TAUFERS CASTLE
When did pre-production start for the epic The Ultimate Run and how long did it take you to plot the full run itself ? Pre-production actually started off 7 years ago. That’s when I started to put the first ideas on paper. Don’t worry, I haven’t been thinking that far ahead, but we actually tried to film it all that time ago. On the first shooting day in December 2014, I ended up dislocating my shoulder and that was it. If I think about it right now, I’m actually quite happy that happened. I had much more time to think it through and give the ideas the needed time to grow, gain much more experience and skiing skills to then pull it off in the best way we could. Had you worked with Christoph Thoresen on other projects before?
What did you take from the experience of shooting The Ultimate Run and has it made you want to push more into production? Or did the passion kick in earlier, perhaps when shooting Fade To Winter? I think the passion kicked in long before all of that. Starting freestyle skiing when I was 14,
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SHOT: HARALD WISTHALER
Yes, we’ve filmed together for a couple of ski films and we’ve always had a good time together. Until then I only knew Christoph for being a great drone pilot. Sitting down with Tobi and Dani from LEGS OF STEEL production, they proposed him as director for the project, pointing out his broader skills. It was clear to me that he was the right man.
“the Alpiner X Alive is a unique and stylish looking watch to have on my wrist”
LIMITED EDITION ALPINERX ALIVE DESIGNED BY FREERIDE CHAMPION MARKUS EDER
TO CELEBRATE THEIR COLLABORATION ALPINA AND MARKUS EDER HAVE DESIGNED AN EXCLUSIVE 100-PIECE ALPINERX ALIVE LIMITED EDITION
ski and snowboard movies were our window to what was happening in the world. There are some movies that I watched literally thousands of times, a couple of times a day over and over again. We always wanted to do the same, and actually, made our own feature length movies. Everyone was a rider and filmer at the same time. Filming was always as important to me as competing. When my skiing got at a more national level we’d do a film with all the best Italian skiers. And slowly but surely I got into bigger film projects. Being able to film with the US based company called Matchstick Productions in 2013 was kind of a breakthrough moment for me where I’ve had the chance to be part of five of their movies. Tell us about shooting the glacier scenes in Zermatt, it’s an incredible location for sure? The mountains and their glaciers surrounding
Zermatt are truly breathtaking! While it was really important and personal for me to shoot everything else at home in South Tyrol in Northern Italy, it was clear to me that the glacier and high alpine skiing would happen in Zermatt. The glaciers at an elevation of 4000 metres are just something else. Its huge square blocks allowed for the sort of skiing that I hadn’t really seen before, and which I wanted to do. At the same time it’s also incredibly scary places to be at. As soon as you step out of the helicopter you’re at risk. And not just you but the whole crew. Many times you’re moving on torn up glaciers with endless deep crevasses lingering underneath you or potential avalanches above you. It’s all about experience and knowing how the glacier flows to be able to navigate through it. Luckily Sam Anthamatten and the local guides helped us be as safe as possible even if there is no “safe” up there. In the film it looks quite straight forward but there has been a lot of thought and precaution going into every single shot.
Specification COUNT - LIMITED TO 100 PIECES DIAMETER - 45 MM HEIGHT - 16,30 MM CASE - STAINLESS STEEL 2-PART CASE, 360° BI-DIRECTIONAL TURNING BEZEL. STRAP - BLACK RECYCLED APPEL LEATHER STRAP WATER RESISTANCE - UP TO 10 ATM/100M/330FT CALIBER - AL-284 CONNECTED FUNCTIONS - HEART RATE SENSOR, GPS, PERPETUAL CALENDAR, SLEEP TRACKER AND ACTIVITY MONITOR DIAL - DARK GREY (SEA) AND RED (LAND) DIAL WITH MAT FINISHING ride the untracked mountains. Can you tell us one of your most memorable life-affirming moments in and out of the mountains? The Red Bull Linecatcher in Vars in 2011 was definitely one of those moments. It was my first freeride / backcountry competition and all my ski heroes were there. I didn’t expect anything of myself. What could I potentially do there? Do well? I didn’t think so and actually didn’t really want to go, I told my manager. A month before that I got my first freeride skis and tried to prepare the best I could. I ended up in second place behind Sean Pettit and in front of Tim Durtschi. I remember how I cried with joy and how the door into a complete new world opened to me. As of that moment on, I wasn’t just a freestyle skier anymore but I knew I wanted to
I experienced plenty life affirming moments in skiing but definitely much less off mountain. It’s actually kind of upsetting sometimes. Maybe it’s simply because I’m much more in the mountains than elsewhere. Can we talk about your first line in Alaska, you hit that 20m cliff and sent a powder cloud down the mountain. What were you feeling before, during and after that epic run? Well, first off, it was much bigger than I expected. That’s what Cody Townsend told me when I picked out that line and asked him for advice. I didn’t believe it. It looked big but totally manageable to me. You must know that
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TBC
“I LIKE TO TRAIN BY FEELING. FEELING MYSELF AND MY BODY AND CONCENTRATE ON THAT. I MONITOR MOST OF MY DAYS IN THE MOUNTAINS AND SEE AFTERWARDS IF THE DATA MATCHES THE FEELING THAT I HAD DURING THE DAY.”
MARKUS EDER STANDING ON MANHATTAN GLACIER ZONE READY TO SEND IT IN ZERMATT SHOT BY: LEGS OF STEEL AND RED BULL CONTENT POOL
FIRM FAVOURITES
TUNE: SUPERNOVA GENETIKK SKI TRIP: EXPLORING MY HOME MOUNTAINS TRICK: A SIMPLE AND BIG 360 INTO DEEP POWDER STACK: NOT SURE WHAT’S MEANT BY THAT? MARKUS EDER
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over here in Europe, with the snow layer being much thinner, you get a different sense for the size. I had no experience in riding in AK yet but definitely learned my lesson quickly. While I was riding down the face on this big rollover towards the cliff, I had to keep a certain speed to not blind myself in the super deep snow on every turn. When I actually got to the cliff and first realised how big it actually was, there was no stopping anymore. If I had stopped, the plough I released on the earlier turns would have washed me off the cliff. I rather prefer to control the sail. Of course this decision happened unconsciously.
The snow was incredibly deep which saved my landing. And after a big backslap I rode out of it. Only after looking at the shot, I realised that I was chased by a huge cloud of snow. What are some of your earliest memories of skiing as a boy? My memories are quite bad when it comes to my childhood. But I vividly remember one moment of a training day in ski racing. Not necessarily a nice one. We were doing just single turns, super slow and boring. The coach would analyse our
technique and give us feedback. Then we’d hike up 30 meters and do that incredibly boring single turn again. I remember how I just wouldn’t understand the mistakes that the coach pointed out. I thought that it didn’t change anything on how fast I was anyway so maybe I just didn’t want to understand. Because of these mistakes, I had to do push-ups and I ended up doing quite a few that day. I remember how my coach and I didn‘t always see eye-to-eye! You’ve said that you pestered your mother to let you ski when you were three and she put you on a pair of your older sister’s plastic skis. Do you still have them or any of your early gear? No, unfortunately I don’t have them anymore. I wish. They probably went to the bin. What made you switch from racing to big mountain and park skiing? I loved to ski race! Going fast and competing against others was great. But seeing the local snowboard crew doing their thing while we were standing in line and training was something else. A bunch of friends having the time of their lives was what I saw. I had no desire to snowboard but it got more and more clear to me that I’d quit racing. I didn’t even know that freestyle skiing existed at the time. Did you have any other possible career paths in front of you or were you resolute to be in the mountains cutting it up all day? I most definitely never expected to become somewhat professional or even turn it into my job. But unconsciously I laid out my life so I could ski more. I chose to study as an electrician where I had weekends off and could skip school once in a while. After that, I searched for a job where I wouldn’t have to work during wintertime. I remember my dad getting concerned when he saw the curriculum vitae I sent to different companies, asking for a couple of months off. Nobody would take me, he said. In the end, I got a job, and as soon as skiing paid off enough I’d quit the job for good and ski all year round.
SHOT: DANIELE MOLINERIS
Did you have a rigorous training program to get competition ready? Or did you take a more relaxed approach each season? I definitely always wanted to do the best I could and skied every day. Not for the competition but for the sake of it. In the beginning, everything was much more unorganised. I’d find myself once again sleeping on somebody‘s floor,
AT TAUFERS CASTLE, MARKUS AND DIRECTOR CHRISTOPH THORESEN DISCUSS THE RESULTS OF A SHOT
using all my clothes as a mattress and blanket, self-medicating my injuries with painkillers before the competition but I knew I had to show my best during competition. No doubt, I messed up many times as well. The more my career advanced, the more fanatic I got about being the most prepared I could be. Especially in freeriding, I fall into an almost unhealthy fanaticism when it comes to finding and studying my lines.
I think I’m quite unusual when it comes to preparation. I usually don’t go to the gym or do pre skiing workouts. But what I do is turn my hobbies, like climbing, biking, hiking, skateboarding, slacklining and so on, into training. I’m obsessed with sport in general so If I’m just focusing on my hobbies I’m working out way more than doing it the traditional way. Of course, bouncing on the trampoline and training, I used to do it a lot. I still do that but much less nowadays. The best preparation for skiing is still and will always be skiing for me. When I start off the season I’m mostly just getting my legs burning carving on the slopes and skiing off-piste with basically no jumping at all. Reminding the muscles how it works. Interval training on skis. And slowly I step it up. What has been the most challenging mountain of your career to date and what is still up there on your bucket list? The Mount Ushba expedition with Sam Anthamatten and Leo Slemett in the Caucasian mountains was for sure my biggest challenge. It required mountaineering skills, which I didn’t have, as well as a good endurance, which I was lacking as well. Sam didn’t want me to come with but I couldn’t let go. So I started training as hard as I could to show him that I was worth it. I might have never trained as much in my life as for that mountain. One winter and one summer I was hiking, ski touring and mountaineering as much as I could. Making the most experiences possible and learning as much as I could about ropes and everything that comes with. For the training I ended up on the Matterhorn, MontBlanc and got to climb a few amazing faces and mountains at home with good friends. Even if we didn’t make the first ascent of Ushba, it was all worth it. Right now there’s no mountain in sight, or at least not a physical mountain. I will see what the future brings.
SHOT: HARALD WISTHALER
What’s your summer training like? Do you have any tips on preparing for the ski season?
Growing up you were a racer, how did the park or big mountain start to appeal more to you? Besides seeing the local snowboard crew, my now best friends, having such a great time, together with not wanting to obey the coach anymore, had me quit ski racing. At the time I had no idea what I wanted to do but every possible day I was up there with a friend, both on snowblades, jumping on every corner we found. Slowly we connected with the snowboard crew which provided us with ski and snowboard movies. I couldn’t believe what I saw on the screen. The tricks they did. The way they moved. Being laid back and super stylish. And that was the eyeopener. The big mountain came in quite a bit later as I mentioned earlier. Talk to us about your standard and extreme kit setup for a day in the mountains? My standard and extreme kit is pretty much always the same. Of course I always bring the Beacon, a probe and a shovel with me. Unless I know the avalanche danger is close to zero, I always choose my bigger shovel. The one you can use as a hook. It makes you so much faster on the digging side in case things go wrong. Most of the time I bring a saw with me as well, mostly
at home to clean some home runs from branches or fallen trees. Usually I also bring an extra lens, something to drink, food and candy. I also take some cameras with me. My first aid kit is quite small and could definitely be a bit more thought through. Generally speaking, my backpack is always different depending on what I’m going to do. Sometimes crampons, ice axes and harnesses are required and if I’m riding the park it’s basically empty. Freeriding isn’t just about being physically fit and having incredible stamina. How important is it to have the right equipment? I actually think it’s most about stamina and physical fitness. The equipment is no doubt important as well. It makes you feel good and strong, you last longer since you can carry through the day saving more energy. Riding is also more enjoyable of course and that makes you want to be out there longer as well. The biggest upgrade and change in my skiing came from the Völkl Revolt 121, a ski we developed with the team over a period of one and a half years. I was used to a ski that was developed a while ago by somebody not that passionate about freeriding, and all of a sudden, I had the best and most thought through ski in the game. However, the best equipment doesn’t automatically make you a good skier. You’ve got to have the inner will as well. TR
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JAPAN Words: Peter J Robinson
For many of us, stepping into the unknown off-piste from the safety of your chopper is about as surreal as a trip into the mountains can get. For the real mountain mavericks, road tripping around the alps and onto North America, Canada, Chile, Argentina and New Zealand are part of an annual pilgrimage chasing winter. If you crave the deepest powder and want a genuine cultural switch up, Japan has over 600 resorts and boasts over 600 inches of super light and extraordinarily dry pow every season.
T R AV E L : J A PA N
HBC GUIDE PETER LEH AT RUSUTSU SHOT BY: BLACK DIAMOND TOURS
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Niseko Village
LONG STORY SHORT, PACK YOUR SNORKEL SHOT BY: MATT WISEMAN NISEKO PHOTOGRAPHY & GUIDING
HIGASHIYAMA NISEKO VILLAGE
W
HILTON NISEKO VILLAGE
HIGASHIYAMA NISEKO VILLAGE
e recommend the first quarter of the year with “Japanuaray” in full swing for seasonaires. Though between March and April you’ll find similar conditions to that of North America. You’re not going to find as frequent dumps of fresh snow but you’re more likely to get bluebird skies and warmer conditions. Push that departure to April and you’ll land in time for the cherry blossoms which bloom island-wide. On Hokkaido, the mountain ranges are well known for their frequent dumps of fresh snow. This consistent onslaught of fine powder comes from the cold winds of Siberia that build moisture as they cross the Sea of Japan before blanketing the Japanese Islands. Japan’s northernmost island plays host to Higashiyama, Niseko Village at the base of Mount Yotei. This Ritz-Carlton Reserve property opened in December 2020 and is YTL’s first opening in Japan. It’s a smart location for the brand given the 2191 acres of skiable terrain, variety of Michelin starred restaurants and the fact that it will host some
of the 2030 Winter Olympics most iconic events. The property has 50 rooms, all designed with swathes of latticed dark wood elements and floor-to-ceiling windows to enjoy the captivating views of snow-capped Mount
“This consistent onslaught of fine powder comes from the cold winds of Siberia that build moisture as they cross the Sea of Japan before blanketing the Japanese Islands.” Yotei. Kachou Fuugetsu, the philosophy of discovering oneself through nature, is at the
core of the resort experience. Two restaurants Yukibana and Sushi Nagi offer seasonally inspired menus based on the Japanese culinary practice of shun. You’ll also find a traditional Japanese onsen on site to take in Niseko’s natural underground hot springs. If this is your first time visiting the region or resort, we recommend taking a backcountry guided tour to get your bearings. Hokkaido Powder Guides have been working in the region for fourteen seasons and will happily lead a group of advanced skiers out into fields of endless powder. Stamina should be secured in advance of course. If you’re looking for something more serene, you can take a snowcat up the mountain before the lifts open for breakfast followed by clear runs down the mountain. Regardless, if this is your first time skiing in Japan, take a guide. When you’ve travelled that far, every run counts and you don’t want to be saddled with a piste map for a week trying to memorise the home run. If you’re looking for apres the Higashiyama is designed to cater to all your needs but if you are fresh off the slopes in Grand Hirafu, generally considered the main area for nightlife and dining, try Wagyu BBQ.
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I
f you’re looking to arrive in Tokyo and not take a connecting flight to Sapporo, you’ll find Hakuba in the Japanese Alps a short Bullet train ride away. It might be terribly cliche but the thought of landing in Tokyo and taking the bullet train at over 200mph to Nagano is about our speed. The car journey will take you three hours, the train one hour and fifteen minutes so it’s a relative no brainer. Once at Nagano, the home of the 1998 winter Olympics, you can take a transfer the last hour west to Hakuba. Though the smart money takes a helicopter transfer the last 80 minutes from Tokyo at a rather reasonable rate arranged through The Hakuba Company.
lifts accessing 200+ runs. There is a reason it’s played host to the Free Ride World Tour. Ever since British mountaineer Walter Weston visited Hakuba in 1894, It became an essential location for any alpinist. The region’s ski scene became popular in the Hakuba Mountain during the Taisho era (1912–1926), with the first lift system setup in 1952.
One. Follow the route up the Skyline 2 lift and then the Kurobishi 3 lift to the top of the off-piste zone. Avalanche control is no joke with the sheer amount of powder the region gets so take a guide, take avalanche gear and, at the very least, go with an experienced group.
One element missed in Europe that Japan really embraces is night skiing. The Nakiyama 2 remains open after dark for those wanting If you’re a beginner, you’ll want to head to to get in some more practice. It’s a short run the Sakka ski area where the runs are gentle and, of course, the temperature plummets. But and the slopes wide. Should you have already for those who want to cruise down the slopes established your on-piste pedigree, you might alone with the towns and villages lit up across want to try the more challenging terrain at the the valley before them, it’s a great way to spend Kokusai 3 and Panorama lifts higher up the an evening. Not to mention the famous snow mountain. You’ll find a vast network of red runs monkey park. that combine gradual slopes and steep sections. In the Nagano prefecture, Hakuba is one of Japan’s top winter resorts stretching over the If you’re already online looking for a flight If you’re seasoned and have greased yourself three municipalities of Omachi city, Hakuba broker, you’ll need suitable digs for the Village and Otari village. With Olympic hosting into your racing gear, the Riesen Grat Course occasion. The Hakuba Company has Mountain and the Riesen Slalom Course offer a nonheritage comes investment and footfall and so Side Hakuba, a range of three bedroom Hakuba comprises 10 ski resorts that run north stop top to bottom route to the base area of spacious apartments in front of the Happo to south entrenched in the foothills of the Hida Nakiyama. Olympic Course 1 and 2 are also a Kokusai ski lift. Looking to bring a larger Mountains. Whilst the valley is considered to be must-hit for anyone looking to test their metal group, Nivia is a three-bedroom chalet that can the largest ski area, only a handful of its resorts but perhaps build-up to these runs. It’s a long host up to ten guests in the Wadano district. are connected. Much like Chamonix, they are a way to travel to be medevaced off the mountain. Hachi, a new property at the Hakuba Happo short 5-20 minute drive away though, meaning Sakki ski slope, accommodates 14, and has both In terms of off-piste and backcountry, you can you can still explore multiple mountain a Yamaha grand piano and traditional Japanese find powder bliss within the ski area of Happo ranges. It’s worth making the trip to the 100+ tatami room. TR
HACHI BY THEHAKUBA COMPANY
Hakuba “If you’re seasoned and have greased yourself into your racing gear, the Riesen Grat Course and the Riesen Slalom Course offer a non-stop top to bottom route to the base area of Nakiyama”.
POUNDER HOUND UNKOWN SHOT BY: HOKKAIDO CORE
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PIZ LAGREV
C U LT U R E : R O B E R T B O S C H
Robert Bösch
Engiadina Words: Robert Bösch and Angelika Affentranger-Kirchrath Photography: Robert Bösch Robert Bösch creates magical images of a soberly seen reality – his motifs are shown in their very existence, without photo-technical manipulation or post-processing; without emphasis or pathos. Essential to the creation of his pictures is the choice of detail, such as the flank of a mountain or the incidence of light on a forest slope. The mountaineer and documentary photographer Robert Bösch certainly has this other side, which manifests itself even more clearly in the publication “Engiadina” than in all his previous art books.
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PIZ PALÜ MIT DEN DREI NORDWANDPFEILERN
Photographer and mountain guide Robert Bösch has been a freelance photographer in the mountains for over 40 years. Having shot for Stern, Geo and NatGeo, his travels and expeditions have crossed seven continents, including an assignment up Everest. An Ambassador for Nikon, Bösch’s work has been shown in galleries and museums but recently his focus has been publishing his art photography. His last published books – ‘Mountains’, ‘No Man’s Land’, and ‘Engiadina – are devoted to classic photography, which he feels connected to and which shapes his work.
Where the gods rotate valleys by Robert Bösch “Down with the Alps, clear view of the Mediterranean!” – this ultimate demand of the politically turbulent 1980s was certainly not created in the Engadin. The mountains don’t get in the way “up there;” they neither obstruct the view into the distance nor do they block the sight of anything else. On the contrary: they guide your gaze across an open, serene lake landscape to the horizon at the end of this beautiful world, where the gently sloping mountainsides from the left and from the right meet in the wide valley area of Maloja. Exactly where the sun sets on the shortest days of the year, as if the good Lord had rotated the valley until it was just right.
ROBERT BÖSCH
coming home when, after the Julier Pass, at the end of the long straight, the Piz Bernina with the Bianco ridge appears on the southern horizon.
In this high valley, everything is a little lovelier than elsewhere – nature that can be enjoyed, sensed and felt. Skiing, golfing, kiting, surfing, cross-country skiing, mountaineering, biking, hiking, yoga, readings and concerts in the light mountain forest: nature is the visitor’s friend in the Engadin. Here, you won’t find deep valleys with raging mountain streams, wedged between steep and high mountainsides, or cold and barren high plateaus battered by the wind, demanding everything from man and beast in order to survive. Here, no masses of ice and rock clinging high up on the steep flanks threaten life on the small alpine meadows on terraced slopes or at the bottom of the valley. No – instead, it is simply the most beautiful and lovely thing that a mountain range can offer to people accustomed to civilisation. Here, you can feel the power of the mountains in the most pleasant way – without risk or danger. When you hike into the Val Roseg or get off the cable car on the Diavolezza, you are on the threshold, so to speak, of the high mountains – where, according to Peter Handke, the pupils dilate – not because you’re confronted with an overpowering and oppressive mountain world, but
“It always feels like
on the contrary: sitting on the terrace of the Tschierva Hut, seemingly in the middle of the high mountains, surrounded by the glaciers of the Tschierva basin with the high alpine skyline from Piz Bernina to Piz Scerscen to Piz Roseg, one is at the same time an appreciative and distanced observer. This triumvirate of peaks forms a horseshoe, but how far away it is from the other, the world-famous ‘horseshoe’ of the three Himalayan giants Everest – Lhotse – Nuptse! There, at Camp II, in the Valley of Silence, above the Khumbu Icefall at 6,400 metres, you don’t sit on the stands and admire what is being offered at a safe distance on the alpine stage. Surrounded by the highest mountains in the world, which almost crush you with their 2,000-metre- high walls rising steeply into the infinity of the sky, you find yourself in the middle of it all, small, tiny and defenceless. How much more relaxed it feels here, on the sun terrace of the SAC hut with coffee, cake and beer. The Engadin is not the Himalayas – and not Patagonia and not Antarctica – but it has picked out the most beautiful and pleasant of all these landscapes for itself, so to speak.
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I have known the Engadin for a long time. Already as a young mountaineer – before I got to know other, bigger and wilder mountains of the world – I travelled countless times in the Bernina area and in the Bergell. I have climbed most of the mountains depicted in this book. On the most diverse routes, in winter, in summer, in the most diverse conditions, deep snow in stormy weather or glorious sunshine. It always feels like coming home when, after the Julier Pass, at the end of the long straight, the Piz Bernina with the Bianco ridge appears on the southern horizon. The bluish shimmering ice on the west face betrays high winter conditions: cold, brittle ice that splinters like glass when you try to hammer the ice axe into it. It will be cold up there, the snow plume at the summit betrays the icy storm. I reflexively look at mountains through the eyes of a mountaineer: ice and snow conditions, avalanche cracks, biting wind or warming rays of sun. But the same eyes also see the beauty of the mountains, the deep blue of Lake Sils, the golden larches and above them the broad, freshly snowed peak of the Margna shining in the purest white. But I also see the world differently, with other eyes, with the eyes of the photographer. That is a very different view. I have tried to approach the Engadin with this other view. I’m glad I didn’t tackle this book project earlier, because I had been carrying the idea around with me for years. But only in the last few years have I understood that the project
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ANRAUM AN DEN GIPFELFELSEN DES PIZ D‘EMMAT DADAINT
“Even in
their inexorable disappearance, these ice monsters are beautiful elements of the high mountain landscape.
”
has a big problem: the Engadin is actually too beautiful to be photographed. The Engadin is an alpine-landscape cliché, formed over thousands of years from stone, air, water, ice and light. And that’s not what I wanted to show with my pictures. For me, photography has to go beyond what I see, what is simply beautiful, what I can also capture with my mobile phone. For me, photography means creating images that only come into being through me, through my camera, through the detail and moment
I have determined. Images that you don’t usually see when you look at the world. Like a painting: Segantini looked over the easel with its empty canvas into a landscape where everything could be seen, he looked into the everything of the Engadin mountains. What he saw was not yet a picture. Only when he forced his gaze, his decision to crop, into a square with brush and paint – forever, so to speak – only then did everything become a picture. In my search for something new, I discovered something that I had known for a long time but had not perceived as new. The larches, for example. Not the autumnal golden ones – no – the naked, wintry larches. Sometimes perfectly symmetrical, sometimes wonderfully abstract skeletons, graphics like Giacometti sculptures sketched with a pencil. Or the late summer glaciers, the dying ones. Even in their inexorable disappearance, these ice monsters are beautiful elements of the high mountain landscape. Naked, stripped of the last old snow, washed away by heavy rain, ogives and medial moraines tell of the constant flow of ice, a movement imperceptible to the human
eye. Dead, cold material that is seemingly alive, that is always in motion within itself and that, as a total mass, advances further into the valley over longer climatic periods or retreats to higher, colder elevations, or dissolves completely. One would not like to imagine the Bernina mountains in summer without glaciers. But it will probably become reality: not even the eternal ice is forever. At some point, the glaciers will return and fill the wide high valley and its lovely lakes with their icy masses again. We will not live to see it. My last book, “No Man’s Land”, contained pictures I saw while travelling on this planet, but this book shows pictures that were taken while travelling in the Engadin. I didn’t aim to show what the Engadin looks like. I never thought about which views I absolutely had to capture – the sunset from Muottas Muragl, the first rays of sun on Piz Palü, the blue hours on the Tschierva glacier or the golden larches of autumn. That didn’t interest me. I wanted to show pictures that I had discovered, and which only came into existence through my camera. Pictures that – at least I hope – reflect as a whole the atmosphere of this unique LÄRCHENGRUPPE IM SCHNEEFALL
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PIZ CORVATSCH MIT MOND
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VEDRETTA DI FELLARIA ORIENTALE, ITALIEN
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mountain landscape.
BIANCOGRAT
The glaciers are retreating, the handholds are getting smaller, the mountains higher – everything is in flux, nothing stays as it is. I know that at some point even the not-sohigh peaks of the Bernina will be too high for me. What remains are the memories of experiences and the joy of looking and searching for pictures.
Engiadina – the Valley of the Larches. By Angelika Affentranger-Kirchrath Doctor of Philosophy and art historian Angelika Affentranger-Kirchrath has worked as an art critic and curator, in particular for the Neue Zürcher Zeitung. She has published numerous articles in specialized journals as well as monographs of artists of the 20th and 21st centuries. What a blue! A sky blue? An azure blue? Certainly, but much more and quite different. It is a loud, piercing blue, a fanfare of blue. A blue that stores the southern light, is dazzlingly full of it, but which also contains a touch of the coolness of the northern light. It is a light blue, and yet not permeable to the gaze. It is the blue of the Engadin sky. Only in the Engadin does the sky have this beguiling colour. Since time immemorial, thinkers, poets and artists have gathered beneath this blue canopy. It has stimulated them and, like Friedrich Nietzsche, inspired them to intellectual and poetic excellence. Only here did he feel completely healthy. Freed from the burden of everyday life and his migraines, he could work undisturbed in Sils in his sparsely furnished house not far from the lake. Thomas Mann also experienced rare moments of happiness in the Upper Engadin. Artists such as Ferdinand Hodler, Giovanni Segantini and Giovanni Giacometti, and the much younger Gerhard Richter, went in search of light and inspiration for their paintings in this region. Rainer Maria Rilke, on the other hand, could not stand the abundance of brightness and the proximity of the mountains in the Upper Engadin. He fled to Soglio in the Bergell with its somewhat milder light. Robert Bösch is not afraid of the intensity of the Engadin light and the grandiosity of the nearby mountains. Even as a young mountaineer, he was often in the Engadin and for years now has been spending a lot of time at his home in Maloja, from where he has roamed the area and climbed many mountain peaks. Now, having travelled all over the world and collected
PIZ TREMOGGIA
LÄRCHE MIT BLAUEM HIMMEL
images everywhere, he is dedicating a book to the Engadin with haunting photographic images that bear witness to his sensitive and personal dialogue with the valley. The art photographer acts like a director who allows his protagonists to make their appearance: at times they take up the foreground as the main actors, at others they assume a supporting role in the background. Together they play out the drama of nature. At the beginning of the book, the Engadin blue stretches out as if a curtain were being raised. It forms the backdrop for a larch that stands out, glowing orange-yellow against the monochrome background of the sky. The larch is the protagonist in this book. For Robert Bösch, the Engadin is less the “valley of the Inn” than the “valley of the larch”. He has discovered it as his changeable model. When it first appears, it has been moved to the left edge of the picture and cropped, thus depriving it of its radiance. It is as if the photographer wants to tell us with this compositional decision: nothing that follows is as beautiful or strongly coloured as this shot. Robert Bösch is not looking for the perfect and interchangeable beauty of calendar pictures. He is not attracted by that which is eye-catching, but by what emerges when we do not look for it, by what reveals itself to the alert eye as an image in passing, something that we glance only once in this way. Moments of pause. “Moments” 1.
FRÜHSOMMER IM ALBULAGEBIET
And so the strong Engadin blue soon recedes. It gives way to a sky in subtle shades of grey, a kind of vibrating veil, a membrane. And once again larches push their way into the picture. This time it is two trees standing close together on the right of the picture. The golden yellow of their autumnal needles has given way to the dark structure of their winter-bare branches. They no longer paint the background, they draw it with their black trunks and branches like bars and lines against a light background. We encounter the larch like a refrain in this book. Only rarely does it appear alone, as an individual. Mostly it stands together with many others, as part of a forest. Seen from above from a helicopter, the trees now seem small and fragile like matches. Explored from inside the forest, the individual tree loses its contours, the snow-covered forest becomes impenetrable to the eye. And again and again, it is the larch that connects below and above in this book and brings together what is known, tangible and experiential on Earth with that which can only be imagined: the shimmer on a glacier ridge and the impenetrable blue of the Engadin sky.
TR
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“ When you hike into the Val Roseg or get off the cable car on the Diavolezza, you are on the threshold, so to speak, of the high mountains – where, according to Peter Handke, the pupils dilate – and it is not because you are confronted with an overpowering and oppressive mountain world.
”
SILVAPLANERSEE IM LETZTEN TAGESLICHT
PIZ BERNINA, PIZ SCERSCEN, PIZ ROSEG
SOUTH ISLAND, MINARET STATION
T R AV E L : N E W Z E A L A N D
NEW Zealand Words: Peter J Robinson Well known for its majestic mountains, jaw-dropping landscapes and stunning lakes, New Zealand has endless wilderness to explore. If the untouched natural beauty of the islands is still on your wanderlist, 2022 might just be the time to visit Minaret Station, Matakauri Lodge and Blanket Bay Lodge. Did we mention the season runs from mid to late June and finishes in October? Time to top up that winter tan.
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Minaret Station -44.411505, 168.993693
D
avos, Abetone and Chamonix are all arguably beautiful sister cities of Aspen, but it’s the Switzerland of the South, New Zealand’s Queenstown, where a dynamic alpine resort and tourist region offers exceptional skiing from July through September. Although boasting a wide range of activities all year round, it’s the lure of the snow which puts Queenstown firmly on the map. The aptly-named Coronet Peak towers above this lakeside resort town. And are there any bragging rights better than hitting the slopes at a resort called the Remarkables? With two additional ski areas just a short drive away, this region truly is the birthplace of New Zealand’s commercial slopes. Just 40 minutes’ drive west of Mount Crichton from Queenstown sits Blanket Bay, a rustically elegant retreat at the edge of beautiful Lake Wakatipu. Grand stone-and-timber architecture with beamed ceilings, large open log fireplaces and floor-to-ceiling windows provide a true lodge experience. Built to showcase the best features of the world’s finest alpine lodges, the property lies on the edge of one of the greatest alpine wilderness regions in the Southern Hemisphere. It’s a brief helicopter ride to the stunning Milford Sound and the snow-capped Mount Earnslaw Glacier,
the beautiful quiet trout-filled rivers of the Greenstone Valley, and the dense prehistoric rainforests of World Heritage Fiordland National Park.
where you’ll be warmed by a huge outdoor fireplace. As you might expect, the Pacific Rim cuisine is perfectly complemented by an impressive list of award-winning wines.
Guests can enjoy an intimate den, games
Of all the activities offered at Blanket Bay, it’s the location that sets it apart. Although the property encompasses in excess of ten thousand acres, this pales in comparison to the heli-ski terrain immediately surrounding the property. Daily fresh tracks or snowshoe hiking in untouched winter landscapes is moments away from the lodge’s private onsite helipad.
“Minaret Station and Southern Lakes Heliski provide guests with access to over 800 runs spanning 17 different mountain ranges.” room, spa, gym, jacuzzi, steam rooms and therapy suite. Dinner, selected from a carefully curated a la carte menu, is served at your own table in the dining room, the privacy of the wine cave or on the terrace,
Thinking of taking lunch from a higher altitude, Blanket Bay offers an a la carte heli-skiing menu to suit a wide range of skiing and snowboarding abilities. Each heli-ski program has been carefully designed to offer a great degree of flexibility, allowing everyone to experience the tranquillity, freedom and exhilaration of heli-skiing. A short 10 minute drive west of Queenstown is Matakauri Lodge. Located on the banks of Lake Wakatipu, it’s the perfect hideaway retreat, offering panoramic views of Lake Wakatipu, the Remarkables and surrounding mountains.
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The property has just 12 luxury suites and a stunning four-bedroom Owner’s Cottage, making it a perfect location for a full buyout. Close enough to enjoy the bars and shops of Queenstown, but just far enough out to ensure serenity this Relais & Chateaux lodge was named the # 1 Resort Hotel in Australia and New Zealand in 2021 Travel and Leisure World’s Best Awards. Judging by the panoramic mountain views, you’ll want to settle in for dinner. Chef Jonathan Rogers showcases the very best of the region’s bounty in seasonal, daily changing menus, paired to the local central Otago wines. Matakauri Lodge also has its own in-house ski
The property “has just 12
luxury suites and a stunning fourbedroom Owner’s Cottage, making it a perfect location for a full buyout.
”
concierge to help you with everything from fitting ski equipment to organizing guides for heli-skiing. Queenstown is renowned as a winter playground, with a choice of mountains for skiing, snowboarding and alpine activities. Part of the Robertson Lodges group, Matakauri Lodge is the sister property to North Island New Zealand lodges, Kauri Cliffs and The Farm at Cape Kidnappers. Looking for something firmly off-grid? On the rugged South Island, Minaret Station provides guests with a taste of New Zealand’s great outdoors. Without road access, getting to Minaret Station’s Alpine Lodge is all part of the experience. Flying through spectacular
MATAKAURI LODGE -45.059269, 168.587423
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Blanket Bay -44.411505, 168.993693
mountain valleys, over snow-capped peaks and across braided alpine rivers, the journey into Minaret Station is up there amongst some of the world’s finest scenic flights. Out of Queenstown, the transfer is around 30 minutes, out of Wanaka up to 20 minutes. Minaret Station Alpine Lodge has just four chalets, providing the opportunity to enjoy some of life’s most precious elements: time, fresh air, open space and almost no other people. Surrounded by wilderness, time seems to stand still in the remote glacial valley. The sweet scent of the burning fire warms the Alpine Lodge, as the stars spark to life in the sky, making for the perfect backdrop to unwind. Each of the four chalets feature a king-sized (or twin) bed, ensuite bathroom, hot tub, and private deck where guests can relax and unwind beneath the stars. A range of remarkable, privately-guided day experiences are available from the guides and pilots, as they seek to take you beyond the beaten path to Fiordland, Milford Sound, Dusky Sound, Aoraki Mt Cook and the many
National Parks. If you’re looking for something more active, the guides will be happy to arrange backcountry fly fishing, heli-skiing, hiking, mountain biking and guided hunting. If you’ve come to ski or board, then you are more than set. Minaret Station and Southern Lakes heliski provide guests with access to over 800 runs spanning 17 different mountain
“It’s a brief
helicopter ride to the stunning Milford Sound and the snow-capped Mt Earnslaw Glacier.
”
ranges. This terrain encompasses ranges above the southernmost point of Lake Wakatipu outside of Queenstown, all the way to Mt. Cook National Park. Fly directly from your chalet at the Alpine Lodge to the jaw-dropping ski terrain for which New Zealand is renowned. Whether you’re a powderhound that wants to ski non-stop from dusk to dawn or a fairweather skier who wants to cruise the bluebird days, the private charters provide the ultimate freedom and flexibility. So, you’ve hunted down the powder fields, spent the day in the backcountry, and now you want nothing more than to kick off your boots. Once you’ve landed back at base, leaving a trail of boots and gear in your wake, grab an après drink from the bar and take a soak in your private spa pool under a canopy of southern stars. Appetite in full swing? The station’s team of professional chefs forge a food journey from Central Otago’s basin. Free-range venison, te mana lamb, and angus beef are all sourced from Minaret Station’s own 50,000-acre working farm. With seafood freshly caught from Stewart Island, the West Coast, and Fiordland, we’re packed and ready to fly.
For further details on all detinations visit: www.seasonz.co.nz or call +64 9 360 8461
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MARKUS EDER PERFORMS A SWITCH RIGHT CORK 5 SAFETY IN ALAGNA, ITALY SHOT BY: DANIELE MOLINERIS
F I T N E S S : E N D E AV O U R
ENDEAVOUR LIFE Words: David Birtwistle
For lots of us, the past year or so has been a real struggle for so many valid reasons. As a result of the multiple lockdowns and reduced ability to travel, this winter may be the first time you’re able to hit the slopes after a long period of inactivity. For some, skiing or snowboarding will be the most intense physical activity you’ve undergone in almost two years.
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F
or lots of us, the past year or so has been a real struggle for so many valid reasons. As a result of the multiple lockdowns and reduced ability to travel, this winter may be the first time you’re able to hit the slopes after a long period of inactivity. For some, skiing or snowboarding will be the most intense physical activity you’ve undergone in almost two years. There is no hiding that reduction in mobility, even when you’re taking it easy, getting down the side of a mountain is a difficult and often treacherous activity that requires strength, stability, control, and endurance. It is not uncommon for people to experience pain or injuries to the knees, hips and lower back while skiing, but with the right preparation, you can certainly decrease your risk of injury and increase your skiing ability.
head, only to see their faces when you speed past them? Now, more than ever, you can increase the quality of your life and delay the onset of age-related physical adaptations, with a structured and consistent training program. We know the risks of sports and the limits of the body – and we understand what to do to reduce those risks and raise those limits. Yes, speeding down the slopes and carving graciously from side to side is a fun and familyfriendly activity that will create lasting memories for everyone. However, the last thing you want is to be stuck in a knee brace for three months doing physiotherapy and hobbling around the boardroom.
Is there anything better than racing down the side of a mountain watching family and friends as you fly past them? Or racing your son and daughter who think you’re “too old” to beat them head-to-
To reduce your injury risk and improve your ski performance, you need to do a few fundamental things. Increase your single-leg knee stability; your core stability and resilience; and the strength and
ACTIVATION MOVEMENTS (2 ROUNDS NO REST)
STRENGTH
A1) BIRD DOG 20S PER SIDE 2X EACH SIDE A2) CLOCK TAPS 3X PER SIDE A3) BEAST DRAG 8 PER SIDE *PERFORM THIS AS A CIRCUIT, MOVE FROM ONE MOVEMENT INTO THE NEXT WITH ALMOST ZERO REST
B1) RFE (REAR FOOT ELEVATED) SPLIT SQUAT 3 SETS 12-15 REPS PER SIDE PER SET 90 SECONDS REST BETWEEN SETS LOAD WITH DUMBBELLS AS THE PROGRESSION
endurance in your legs. By focusing on these three elements, you can transform into a powerful and elegant skiing machine, dominate the slopes and return home from the trip for tea and medals. In the four weeks leading up to your trip, perform this workout two times per week, alongside your other training, ideally consisting of one upper body resistance workout and one-two cardiovascular workouts, such as cycling or running. On your first session, start by performing all these movements with only body weight, focus on control and technique as a primary goal. Once you’re more confident in the exercise, you’ve got the control and it starts getting easier, add some load or time if it’s an endurance exercise. Ideally, you will be working at a(perceived rate of exertion (PRE) around 8/10. In layman’s terms, work at about 80% of your total capacity, but with the caveat that your technique doesn’t change. It’s very important
*SPINE STRAIGHT, KEEP NON STANDING LEG OFF THE FLOOR THROUGHOUT THE REPS, PRESSURE IN MID TO REAR FOOT, KEEP HIPS SQUARE AND REACH BACK WITH NON-STANDING FOOT COMPLETE 3 ROUNDS OF THIS SUPERSET WITH NO REST BETWEEN EXERCISES BUT 90 SECONDS REST AFTER EACH SUPERSET D1) BANDED HEELS ELEVATED CYCLIST SQUATS 3 SETS
*THE FOCUS IS ON CORE CONTROL AND STABILITY
*KEEP CHEST UP, SPINE STRAIGHT, WEIGHT ON FRONT FOOT, PRESSURE MID TO REAR FOOT
15 REPS PER SET
*KEEP THE MOVEMENTS SLOW AND BE PARTICULAR WITH YOUR MOVEMENT CONTROL
C1) COSSACK SQUATS
LOAD WITH A DUMBBELL OR KETTLEBELL IN A GOBLET POSITION AS THE PROGRESSION
12-15 REPS PER SIDE PER SET LOAD WITH A DUMBBELL OR KETTLEBELL IN A GOBLET POSITION AS THE PROGRESSION C2) SL RDL 12-15 REPS PER SIDE PER SET LOAD WITH A DUMBBELL IN THE OPPOSITE HAND TO THE STANDING LEG AS THE PROGRESSION
*PLACE A BAND AROUND THE KNEES BEFORE STARTING *PREVENT KNEES COLLAPSING TOGETHER BY DRIVING OUT AGAINST THE BAND THROUGHOUT THE SET *EACH REP IS 1 & ¼ REPS. STARTING AT THE TOP, WITH HEELS ELEVATED ABOUT 1”, DROP INTO A DEEP SQUAT POSITION, RAISE UP ABOUT HALFWAY, THEN BACK DOWN TO THE BOTTOM, THEN RAISE ALL THE WAY TO THE TOP, THIS IS ONE REP. *KEEP CHEST UP, SPINE STRAIGHT, WEIGHT ON BOTH FEET, PRESSURE MID TO REAR FOOT *KNEES CAN TRAVEL OVER THE FEET, SO LET THE KNEES COME FORWARD DURING THE MOVEMENT
that as you add load and stress the body more, we don’t compensate. The caveat to all the movements in this routine is that you have no injuries or pre-existing movement imbalances and compensations, that you have a basic understanding of how your body moves and access to a location that enables you to perform them safely. If you are unsure or would simply like a more personalised approach, then my team and I at Endeavour would be happy to help.
Endeavour provides personalised online coaching with the sole aim of keeping you pain-free, fit, lean, and healthy for as long as possible. After completing a free consultation, depending on your unique situation, you will be matched with the perfect online coach for you. Who knows, it could be me. Following an online movement analysis, food diary assessment, and considering all your history, we can construct your bespoke training program and
nutrition strategy. During your weekly check-in call, your coach will discuss your training, nutrition, sleep, lifestyle, and goals to ensure that everything you do is aligned to them and working for you. The beauty of this method is that no matter where you’re based or where you go, your coach is with you. As your goals, lifestyle or focus shifts, your fitness program will shift in line with it, and your coach will support and keep you accountable throughout the process. TR
THE REVIEW 2021 47
THE USA Words: Peter J Robinson
If you’ve ever skied in North America, you’ll know your choice of resort, accommodation, and go-to apres choices are incredibly nuanced. You’ll need years to really scratch the true width and breadth of resorts that the US has to offer. Vail, Deer Valley, Park City, Jackson Hole, Snowbird, Whistler, Kirkwood and, of course, Buttermilk Ski Resort, Colorado. The Americans are very spoilt for terrain. But you aren’t there for the mountain alone. No – you came for the après, the atmosphere and the ‘eating out’. We’re putting Aspen, Killington and Sugarbush first up for the 21/22 season. Happy powder hunting.
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A
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KILLINGTON
Y
r ou might know Killington as ‘the Beast” of the East’. You might know it’s 1,509-acres of pistes. And you might know it as being down to fight for its right to party. Given its proximity to New York and Boston, Killington once boasted and took a beating looking after over a million skiers a year. As always, times change, and whilst the Beast is still one of the East Coast’s best ski resorts, they now manage a much more reasonable footfall of seasoned skiers. The resort’s summit sits at 4,241 feet. It’s proud of having one of the largest vertical drops in New England and the state’s oldest and largest snowmobile tour company. It doesn’t get much more American than that. Killington is home to a sizable trail system that covers six mountains ranging from gentle groomers and school areas to decent mogul runs and well-gladed trails, as well as one of the best park set-ups in the state. If you’re not headed up the mountain, you can always
take a sleigh ride, rent a bike, snowshoe, take a gondola ride, or get the drinks in for when the skiers come thrashing down the home run. Our vote goes for riding the Beast Mountain Coaster, a 4,800-foot long alpine coaster open Saturdays and Sundays in the winter.
“Killington is home to a sizable trail system that covers six mountains ranging from gentle groomers and school areas to decent mogul runs and well-gladed trails.” The resort’s 40 miles of runs across 600 acres benefit from a well-engineered snowmaking
system backing up an average of 250 inches of the good stuff a year. The main mountain has five key base areas to take note of. Bear Mountain has arguably the most varied terrain of the base areas and is the furthest south. It’s also likely to be less crowded if you’re headed out for the first lift. W and Ramshead Lodge are on the north side of the ski area and are fairly close. Head here for the snowshed express that will take you to the longest set of runs for beginners. Because the terrain is kind, you’ll also find the resort’s main ski schools. If you’re looking for the park, this is also your stop. Ramshead is home to the Woodward Mountain Park. If you’re really eager but not considering camping out on the hill, Skyeship Lodge is for you. As it’s on Route 4, it’s relatively undersubscribed. You’ll need to be ready to go: there are no rentals here, just a food court and a ticket to a 3-mile ride on the Skyeship Express Gondola Stage I. From there, take Stage II, Northbrook Quad or Needles to the first runs. If you’re coming in hot and looking for black diamond runs, head straight to the summit at K-1 Lodge. The K-1 express
SHOT: PAUL HOLMES
MIKAELA SHIFFRIN STANDS ATOP THE PODIUM (CENTER).
MOUNTAINSIDE LODGE
WORLD CUP 2021
THE REVIEW 2021 51
Your must-hit run is into the trees between the Devil’s Fiddle and Outer Limits on Bear Mountain. There are some great lines to be had Once you’re off the slopes, the Beast ranks and on power days, it’s your spot. If you have widely as one of the top locations for its après scene. The locals and seasonaires are down for to get one drink head to the Wobbly Barn – it’s a good time. Wobbly Barn, Umbrella Bar, or the been around for about 57 years and still serves The Wobbly Barn – you’ll find everyone there. up a great steak. gondola takes you straight to Killington Peak.
SHOT: CHANDLER BURGESS
If you’re out for dinner, try the Garlic or Casey’s Caboose. Or if you’re on the mountain, the Killington Peak Lodge has fresh farm food.
Founded in 1958 and with 190 trails, most of which are reached by the resort’s snowmaking system, Killington is a must-visit. Keen
intermediate skiers and boarders will be comfortably able to ski the whole area and, at Bear Mountain, it’s six terrain parks are home to 150 features. If groomed runs are your wheelhouse, keep to the long black runs below the K1 Gondola leading to the Superstar trail below the chairs. You’re not going to find a lot of off-piste unless you head into the backcountry, but after a fresh drop of powder the gladed runs and thickets are a dream. TR
S
ugarbush is certainly one of the great Vermont ski resorts in the Mad River Valley. It covers over 200 hectares across two mountains with its summit at 1,244 meters. This snow sure altitude is also backed up by a snowmaking system that covers about 70% of the 111 trail area.
to head to, in terms of both accommodation and daily powder. Mt.Ellen rises to 2,600 feet and is the go-to for a low-key, rough-and-ready run down the mountain. It’s got the rustic lodge and the Green Mountain Lounge and is understated in a welcoming way. Whereas Lincoln Peak is a little more Aperol-and-fur on occasion.
Sugarbush’s early nickname was ‘Mascara Mountain’ because it attracted the Northeast’s social elite, movie stars, foreign jet setters and politicians. The Kennedy’s are arguably a seal of approval whichever side of the aisle you sit on. They even went so far as to hire Olympic Gold medalist Stein Erickson as the founder of their ski school.
On either mountain, though, you’ll find one of the 28 wooded areas that are perfect for beginners and seasoned mountain mavericks alike. If you’ve got the time, head to the 2,000acre Slide Brook Basin for some backcountry.
the top of Lincoln Peak. There you can take the full vertical from the top of each mountain. It’s certainly worth it for the views alone. If you’re a solid blue skier, take the Birch Run off the Lynx at Lincoln Peak. It’s a groomed slope that has a great number of high speed turns and hairpins. If you’re headed off the mountain, try the Green Mountain Lodge at Mount Ellen base or the off-site options like the Hide-Away and Pitcher Inn in Warren.
Family-friendly and still offering challenges for the technical skier, Sugarbush strikes a strong balance. You’ll find lots of old school winding One area you have to head to is Castlerock, with New England trails in addition to the tree skiing no snowmaking or grooming. It’s old school and bumps. skiing at its most natural. Of course there’s a Mt. Ellen and Lincoln Peak also have over 2,000 double-chair lift so you can still get a toasted If you’re done with aprés and searching for cheese sandwich back in rarified civilization. acres of proper backcountry skiing around the the nearest carbohydrate, we recommend Slide Brook Wilderness. The former is the thirdthe Wünderbar on the top floor of the Valley The intermediate skiers amongst you will find highest peak in Vermont and has wide open House. It’s retro and almost anything goes. It a great selection of terrain on both Mount cruisers and steep slopes and the Riemergasse was also the first bar to open at a ski resort. Ellen and Lincoln Peak. If you’re up on your Terrain Park. Right. The resort daily is the Castlerock Pub mountain game, head to the Rim Run trail from where you can get a cold pint of local favourites One of your main questions is which mountain the top of Mountain Ellen or the Jester trail to like Lawson’s, Hill Farmstead and Frost. TR
SHOT: SANDY MACYS
MAD RIVER LODGE
SHOT: JOHN ATKINSON
THE WONDERFUL WÜNDERBAR
SUGARBUSH
THE REVIEW 2021 55
ASPEN
SHOT: TAMARA SUSA
The resort has had ski lifts working on the mountains since just after the end of World War Two, so they’ve been at this for a while. Year on year, the resort continues to attract more people but manages to maintain a distinct lack of crowds. You’ll find gentle beginner slopes at Buttermilk, large endless swaths of off-piste options in the highlands and terrain you can cruise all day long at Snowmass. Aspen itself boasts the World Cup run, which is understandably tough to market against. Aspen’s total elevation is 11,212 feet and has
SHOT: HAL WILLIAMS
SHOT: JEREMY SWANSON
I
t’s likely you’ve been to Aspen, we know that. Far be it from us to push you too far from convention; we’re preaching to the uninitiated. The White River National Forest in Colorado’s Rocky Mountains is home to the four mountain ski resort area made up of Buttermilk, Snowmass, Highland and of course Aspen. Of course, the resort’s nightlife, shopping scene and general vibrant base is as relevant as the on-mountain antics, but we’ll start on-piste nonetheless.
a vertical drop of 3,267 feet. You’ve got 76 runs including Silver Queen, a steep run at an angle of 42 degrees. Each to their own. Arguably Aspen mountain isn’t particularly forgiving for beginners but the ski schools will be happy to show you pockets of the mountain that avoid Spar Gulch and Copper Bowl.
“If you’re carrying your card from the Garrick Club or Ten Trinity, head for Club Chelsea or the Caribou Club – but best check the reciprocal membership first.” Snowmass is the larger of the group of mountains and features 3,132 acres of skiable terrain serviced by 21 lifts on its 4406 feet of vertical. It’s certainly your go-to for the absolute beginner and is only nine miles
outside of downtown Aspen. So ultimately, the wider area is a variety bag, each with its own appeal with terrain ranging from hardened mogul runs to powder bowls, chutes and long groomed trails. Each of the four mountain areas has its own unique feel and appeal; terrain ranges from steep fast mogul runs, open deep powder bowls and chutes, long groomed trails and gentle beginner areas. As you would expect, Aspen’s apres ski scene is well organised, lively and unadulterated. Iguana sits right at the base of Highlands and is a popular afternoon spot. In town, the Ajax Tavern is the place to be seen – and whilst that would usually make it a no-go, this is a ski resort after all, everyone should be equally tired and in need of a shower. The Greenhouse bar at the Little Nell hotel is a go-to for good scotch and a well-leathered armchair. If you’re following the crowd, 39 degrees at the sky hotel has a decent DJ and is the ‘current’ place to be. Bars and most restaurants are interchangeable in Aspen, so unless it’s clearly a fine dining establishment, your aprés tokens are just as worthy in most eateries. For high-grade tequila, then make sure you find Jimmy’s.
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If you’re looking at hotel options, you have a relatively new W, the Little Nell, which is a go-to five-star property within the Relais & Chateaux portfolio. For boutique properties,
try the Hotel Jerome, which opened its doors in 1889 at the height of the silver rush in the town. You’ll find the St Regis or Hyatt equally accommodating, and of course able to handle larger parties. Though if you are arriving in town en masse, we recommend speaking to Aspen Signature Properties who have a selection of lux condominiums, lavish townhomes and private estate homes. All of
which are located in Aspen’s downtown core, on Red Mountain – ski in, ski out in Snowmass Village and riverside enclaves along the Roaring Fork River. The resort is a four-hour drive from Denver if you’re flying commercial. Aspen/Pitkin County Airport is three miles from downtown Aspen and takes most heavy jets.
SHOT: MATT POWER
If you’re carrying your card from the Garrick Club or Ten Trinity, head for Club Chelsea or the Caribou Club – but best check the reciprocal membership first.
FIT
FITNESS : FIT FOR THE SLOPES
FOR THE
SLOPES Words: Naomi Lake
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I
had a Facebook notification this morning. It’s been a whole year since I ran a half marathon. And in good time too, I might add: two hours and six minutes. I would like to say this has led to great strides in my form in the months since. However, I can safely say that across the whole of 2021, I have not clocked enough miles to even make up a half marathon in piecemeal. Not even close. Busy schedules, long days, regular travel and long-Covid symptoms have all taken their toll. Such a difference to my long, summer-day runs of 2020. Where does this leave me now? Well, wildly speculating and mildly panicking about my fitness levels for an upcoming skiing trip, to be blunt. Whilst it doesn’t take too much to sit back and enjoy the view with something warming, tangy and alcoholic, I do want to make the most of what the slopes have to offer when I’m there. Trying to build your fitness is grotesque in comparison to simply maintaining it, much akin to looking up at the mountain to climb whilst next to an out-of-service chairlift, rather than cruising back down the gentler runs on the home straight. But all hope is not lost, and if the fitness hype of the last 18 months has waned a little for you, too, I am here to share some redemption as we chip away at the mental and physical blocks. For an out-of-gym workout, the Home 2 by TRX offers the support for a plethora of workout options from the comfort of home or hotel room. The suspension system created for working out without any equipment at all, as developed by a soldier whilst out on tour, makes your own body weight the catalyst. You tailor your workout to your goals and your ability, with
subtle changes to your posture or distance from the anchor increasing or decreasing resistance. Push or pull, rotation or hinging, all the pillars of strength and mobility can all be achieved, with one uncluttered system. Even simple movements will surprise you at how they catch every muscle. My first workout left me with that satisfying yet all-consuming full-body ache, even in muscle groups I had forgotten existed. It’s fun too. When was the last time you took a good look at your form or balance whilst planking with your feet suspended a few inches above the ground? Setting up your system near a mirror garners extra results, for sure. Like first learning to swim, the TRX system will have you retracing your steps and learning how to control your movement and best serve your body, but in a safe environment that you fully command. The TRX Training Club exists to further fuel the fire, with a schedule of live and on-demand classes. It’s quick to set up at home – fasten to a door of your choice (I particularly enjoyed lengthening the anchor with the extender, and taking my straps to the patio in the summer) without any permanent fixing, using the anchor attachment. Carabiner the suspenders and you’re ready to go, with unique locking loops to limit slip whilst you move and precisely padded handles balancing comfort with a safe grip. It’s no secret: good rest and recovery support a fresh morning and a productive day, be that the day of or after a hearty workout. For aching muscles or just a moment of calm, slip into a steamy bath, but not before adding a big handful of musclesoothing salts. The Bath Collection from Made By Coopers has something for every
need, combining Dead Sea, Himalayan and Magnesium-rich Epsom salts, with individual blends of essential oils and herbs. For aches that make you groan to move, try eucalyptus rosemary, and settle yourself into the steamy vapours to relax your muscles and mind. For ease of throwing in a carry-on, be sure to grab their travel size, too. If it’s almost time to hit the hay, reach for Sleepy Head, and unwind with the frankincense and organic lavender, as lavender buds surround you in the water. And my favourite, vanilla rose, with its warming notes of vanilla, ylangylang, rosebuds and petals, you might even be tempted to share the tub. For extra help with any tweaky muscles after a day on the slopes, you’ll want to make sure Therabody’s Wave Duo is in your suitcase. Even after your flight, it’s a saviour. Its double-curved contours fit the neck and spine, applying light pressure and adjustable vibration comfortably and safely to a stiff neck or aching lower back. Gently roll out tight calves or soothe shin splints by placing the Wave Duo between your
leg and a yoga mat. You control the weight you leave, but the device makes sure pressure is distributed evenly across any area, whilst the vibration releases tension, relieves aches and improves blood circulation to any tender spots. It definitely encompasses a different technique, delivering complementary yet contrary results to the Theragun range, which offers targetted muscle release with
“For extra help with
any tweaky muscles after a day on the slopes, you’ll want to make sure Therabody’s Wave Duo is in your
spot and soothes it, with the Theragun Pro to keep at home for long term training, and the Mini for travel, saving space in the fortnighter. I have recently discovered the art of acupuncture – or I should say, the facility, seeing as I am old enough to remember the warnings administered before any episode of ‘Don’t Try This At Home’. Applying gentle pressure from your body weight atop plastic nibs, the Yogi Bear Acupressure Set opens the same meridians as the ancient art of acupuncture, to align and settle the flow of energy across the body.
It’s an at-home alternative, opening a tingly endorphin release that allows for deep relaxation. Lying on your mat with the rounded pillow behind your neck, your muscles will melt into an acceptance of stillness and release, perfect post-workout for the wind-down after stretching. Also, divine used under the calves for calming twitchy muscles or restless legs. If this wasn’t percussive therapy. If you’re sure to be sore relaxing enough, spritz a little of Made by the Power and Portability Bundle hits the Coopers Zen Room and Pillow Spray on your
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mat before you recline.
of my home.
For every action, there is an equal, opposite reaction. For me, with cardio, it’s yoga. Stretching out the tightness of a hill-sprint calf. Finding balance and comfort stillness after cyclical motion. With the change in scenery of the studio workout over the last 18 months, online classes are still the easiest way to access classes when it suits you, where it suits you. My favourite thing? I can now access classes from different tutors, different cities, and even different countries from the comfort
From their calming west-London studio, Indaba On-Demand is the go-to access to yoga for all levels. From 10-minute-or-less tutorials on a specific pose from cat-cow to forearm stand to full flows to guide the young yogi or inspire the more advanced practice across all yoga styles, it’s the most comprehensive online collection. Keep an eye out for special edition classes from guest tutors, keeping the schedule fresh, your
practice diverse and your body and soul intune all the while. The best time to add yoga to your life was yesterday – but failing that, there’s always today. Just remember, whatever your workout, whatever your starting point or goals, there’s always something out there to help you reach that next level. The body will always last longer than the resolution of the mind, so employ yourself a little helper to keep going that extra half-mile. TR
ALPS
THE
Words: Peter J Robinson
We’re never going to be able to recommend all our favourite European resorts. After all, the Alps stretch through France, Switzerland, Monaco, Italy, Liechtenstein, Austria, Germany, and Slovenia. So, facing that level of analysis paralysis, we’re picking three resorts we’d love to travel to again for the 21/22 season.
T R AV E L : E U R O P E
NORDEND FROM THE DUFOURSPITZE SHOT BY: ROBERT GARNEAU
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LECH HELISKIING IN LECH ZÜRS SHOT BY: SEPP MALLAUN
Generally, you’ll find more reliable snow in the higher resorts and the deep valleys to the west of Innsbruck, but a considerable investment in state-of-the-art snow-making facilities means there are just as many snowsure destinations to the east too. We’re headed to Lech, a luxury resort at the heart of the Austrian Vorarlberg region. Lech has had a remarkable snow record over the years and is now part of Austria’s largest skiable area thanks to the Flexenbahn gondola. The resort offers access to 303km of pistes and 200km of ungroomed runs in
the Arlberg area. But the local slopes are expansive without having to consider going further afield. You’ll find steeps in Valluga above St Anton and relaxing blues above Oberlech.
“Hoping to get even further from the crowds? Lech-Zürs is the only region in Austria that offers heliskiing for groups and solo riders alike.” The greenhorns amongst you will find some really helpful learning slopes and areas on
the far edge of Lech and Oberlech, above the main village. If you consider yourself an intermediate, you’re pretty spoilt for choice in the region. There are 255km of well-groomed reds and blues in the Ski Arlberg area. Hoping to get even further from the crowds? Lech-Zürs is the only region in Austria that offers heliskiing for groups and solo riders alike. The Mehlsack summit is the go-to for the season’s black-and-diamond-run skier, whereas the Schneetäli-Orgelscharte is the better choice for intermediates. If you’re looking for a challenge, come during the winter, when the annual White Ring Ski Circuit race takes place. If you’re not making your way up a mountain at all, there’s still a range of activities for ground-dwellers. The town has curling, ice-skating, a vast network of alpine walks, boutiques, cafes and luxury spas aplenty. Once you’re off the mountain, try the ice bar down at the Hotel Krone which also hosts the K Club or visit the Archiv bar and the Fux Jazzbar. You will also want to make your way to the champagne bar at the Hotel Montana.
BOUTIQUE CHALET ALMRAUSCH
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SHOT: DANIEL ZANGERL
A
ustria has 400 ski resorts that cover about 7,000km of slopes and maintains its position as being one of the most popular ski regions in Europe. Especially for the Brits who descend on the region en masse each season. You’ve got two main choices when considering the Austrian ski region: the highaltitude resorts to the west of Innsbruck, such as St Anton, Sölden, St Anton and Obergurg; or head out east to the likes of Mayrhofen, Kitzbühel, Zell am See and Saalbach.
If you’re looking for lodgings, try the Schneider family-run Almhof Schneider. The property has been going since the 20s and the family can easily trace their origins back to the Lech valley as far as 1451. The hotel has 35 suites all tastefully decorated in individual alpine themes. The Hotel Almhof Schneider is situated in a strong location, not far from the main town centre at the foot of Sclegelkopf. The hotel specialises in traditional Austrian cuisine in its gastronomic restaurant. Finish up your day with a drink on the terrace bathed in sunshine or meet friends for drinks at the hotel’s AmericanHOTEL ALMHOF SCHNEIDER HOTEL
THE JAGDHOF SUITE AT THE ARLBERG HOTEL
style bar. If you’re looking for that chalet chic ambience with traditional touches, Hotel Arlberg is next door, also managed under the Schneider family. Opened in the 1950s under the gables, this rather switch members club style property has depth of character and comfort. It’s interiors are designed to create a warm and elegant feel with a selection of alpine ephemera, from antlers to frescos. Whilst keeping a modern edge, the tasteful interior is sympathetic to its heritage.
The Hotel Arlberg has 51 deluxe rooms split between the Jagdhof, which holds its signature suites and the original Residence. There is no shortage of fine dining and local rustic fare at the Italian fine dining restaurant La Fenice, the traditional Austrian Stube or, of course, a relaxed lunch on the terrace. Chef Patrick Tober covers all three of the hotel’s restaurants and, as a homegrown talent, is keen to make his mark on the local dining scene.
W
e’re certainly no strangers to the alpine delights of Verbier, which boasts world class skiing across 410km of slopes. We’ve visited the region several times covering both chalet and hotel accommodation in the region which continues to go from strength to strength. Given it’s just over 90 minutes drive from Geneva airport, Verbier is the go-to weekend skiing destination. Perched high on a sun-drenched plateau in the centre of the 4 Valleys, Verbier town is a combination of hundreds of wooden chalets, apartment blocks and well-known aprés scene that draws patrons from all over the world. Since the merger of Bagnes and Vollèges, the newly-minted ski area of Verbier – Val de Bagnes – La Tzoumaz offers a total of 300 square-km of freeride, touring and alpine skiing and boarding across six varied locations. Verbier is certainly vast and offers a range of options for experts and the beginner alike. The PETER LLOYD AT THE W HOTEL, VERBIER
resort’s itinerary runs offer some great ‘marked’ off-piste territory, including the Mont Gele and Col des Gentianes Tortin. From the Medran lift station you can find everything from cruiseable reds to technical terrain such as La Chaux and Lac des Vaux. If you’re headed for the nursery runs at Les Esserts, you can call on a host of ski schools from Oxygène to Altitude. The resort is also incredibly snowboarder friendly with a decent terrain park accessed from the La Chaux chairlift. You’ll also find the Thyon park worth a visit with its jumps, rails and formidable airbag. If getting air isn’t your thing, pull up, order a drink and watch a host of beginners and intermediates hit the bag. You’ll also find fantastic powder days in Bruson, accessible with the 4 Valleys lift pass. Now, if you’ve missed the last few ski seasons for obvious reasons, you’ll certainly want to consider investing in some new alpine hardware. The team at First Track Lab are renowned for creating prototype snowboards, skis, wakeboards and kitesurfs with over a decade of R&D taking place at their workshop in Le Châble. From December 2021, they’re opening their first DIY ski shop. Who could pass up the opportunity to work with the team over 2 half-days to design, test and build your own skis for the season. Another must is the big jump. It’s one thing to throw yourself down a well-pisted run, but to throw yourself out of a chopper at 4,000m isn’t for the faint of heart. After a short 15-minute flight in the Écureuil B3 light helicopter, you’ll experience a 40-second rapid transfer to the ground at nearly 200 km an hour. Of course, you’ll be securely strapped to a professional tandem pilot, but if you’ve got over 100 jumps under your belt you could consider taking a wingsuit lesson.
scene is on another level. You’ll be spoilt for choice with the region’s huge range of bars, restaurants and clubs. Many of the resort’s bars and clubs only come into their own after 11pm – so if you’ve got an early lift plan, be prepared. You’ll want to visit Le Rouge, Mont Fort Pub and, after hours, the Farm Club. Verbier has a huge selection of high-spec chalets and hotels to suit all group sizes. Try Le Chalet d’Adrien for postcard-perfect views overlooking the town. Style-wise this is a traditional outfit with wood panelling and antique furniture throughout. The hotel’s south-facing sun terrace is a very popular spot to take a knee and enjoy a variety of culinary flavours from nearby Italy. La Table d’Adrien has one Michelin star and 16 Gault Millau points, and offers Mediterranean dishes created with local artisan ingredients. We visited the hotel’s restaurant for Sunday lunch and can’t recommend it enough. Curl up afterwards by the fireplace with a drink in hand and a mountain view. If you’re looking to get completely amongst it, the W Verbier caters to a well-heeled international clientele who appreciate the 60-second walk to the Medran ski lift. Located at the bottom of the home run, the W quickly made a name for itself in the town with a strong aprés program each season. The W has six restaurants, bars and cafes, alongside a cigar room that’s part of the popular Living Room bar. The hotel’s rooms are a mixture of the traditional and contemporary, and pay homage to typical Swiss design. Laidback luxury is heavily cultivated here across 123 rooms and a penthouse with jacuzzi.
Given the piste has been extended and now ends at the front of the hotel, the W was Verbier’s first ski in/out hotel. That said, if you’re all mountain, then everywhere can be a Whilst Verbier is an alpinist’s paradise, it’s aprés home run.
SHOTS: PETER J ROBINSON
VERBIER SUMMITS PARAGLIDING SCHOOL
VERBIER TANDEM FLIGHTS DOWN THE HOME RUN SHOT BY: VERBIER SUMMITS
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COURCHEVEL
ULTIMA COURCHEVEL BELVÉDÈRE BETWEEN COURCHEVEL 1850 AND LA ROSIÈRE FOREST
THE SUMMIT OF THE SAULIRE
SHOT: STATHIS BOUZOUKAS
NAMMOS
T
he Trois Vallées has 600km of pistes accessible via 166 lifts. Courchevel sits at the end of the network, offering some of the best snow on its many north-facing slopes. The local slopes are made up of 150km of great runs: 10 black, 35 blue, 23 green and 32 red. The resort is made up of the relaxed Courchevel Village (1550), picturesque Le Praz (1300), the rather lively Courchevel Moriond (1650) and distinctly upmarket Courchevel (1850). You aren’t far from a beginner zone with ski schools across all four village bases. The most extensive are in the Pralong area and Courchevel Moriond. It’s worth taking the tidy selection of long blues and wide reds in the upper areas of the Chanrossa and Saulire-Creux sectors and, if the conditions are good, the lengthy reds
down the wooded slopes to La Tania and Le Praz. If you’ve packed your mountaineering gear or your Av pack, there are plenty of mid-piste, powder-heavy slopes and brutal, mogulled black pistes. If you’re looking for a challenge, try the steep couloirs in the flank of La Croiz des Verdons. Courchevel currently has one snowpark in the Verdons area just above the centre. For more freestyle, try Le Park and Moon Park on the furthest side of the next valley. You’ll find twelve Michelin starred restaurants between the villages, so come with an appetite for the top-notch food scene and you might be able to stage 12 reservations across the week. The first gastro restaurant in the area was Le Chabichou: go for the gourmet and remember its generally understood that the higher the altitude the more zeros on the bill. La Cave des Lys is a great option for fine wine lovers, with tapas-style dining and an array of local cheese, many of which are made and matured in house.
“If you are looking for a challenge, try the steep couloirs in the flank of La Croiz des Verdons.” The main resort village has an array of boutiques, art galleries and jewellers along its alpine streets. After all, this is Courchevel where you’ll have just as much fun peoplewatching as you will tearing up the slopes. It’s also home to its very own altiport, which is suitable for jet and helicopter arrival, taking a mere 30 minutes from Geneva.
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FERVENT
FEROXT Words: Aaron Edgeworth
AU T O M O T I V E : M I L I T E M F E R OX T
T
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T
uscany. Up until last month, I’d never been. I envisaged rolling countryside, historical villages with winding cobbled streets, Cypress trees lining driveways up to majestical estates. I was not disappointed. I saw more than my fair share, and probably a large proportion of the world’s stock, of the Fiat Panda 4x4. These were heady days. What car would you envisage as my steed for said days? Something classic perhaps? A 1960’s convertible. Italian, natch. Maybe a follow on from my piece on the Ferrari F8 Spider? A modern tourer, The Roma perhaps. Or maybe, just maybe, I could actually be found behind the wheel of a car whose rarity would have most
other metal beat. The Militem Ferox -T.
the Land Rover Defender 130? Have you seen ‘Queer As Folk’? So, Militem is an Italian company fusing Italian luxury with the rugged aggression of American off-road vehicles. Right. According to the brochure, ‘We are the brand of choice for today’s leaders; figures who desire only excellence both in life and at the wheel of a luxury car.’
Sorry? What was that you said? ‘What is it?’ People, people. What’s going on? Finger not on the automotive pulse? Or there is a chance that particular marketing missive passed you by? In fairness, it had me. However, Google remains the absolute treasure trove of all, well, of all things, and I now know that it is a… Jeep Wrangler? No, the other one. A Rubicon? The mind boggles. A Gladiator? How Italian. But it’s not. It’s I’ll forgive you, should you not be able to something rather inexplicable. picture it, but it is basically a lifted, wide I’m not sure whether you have seen the bodied, pick-up truck bodied Jeep Rubicon. Mercedes Benz G500 4x42? Have you seen The Rubicon being the longer wheelbase
5 door version of the iconic Wrangler. It genuinely is unlike anything else being made, coachbuilder or otherwise. The pick-up version does hit European shores, but usually, like the aforementioned Defender 130, in commercial form. It’s a curious formula. I am not Italian, I’m sure we’ve all gathered that. Maybe I am unaware of an Italian penchant towards American cars, but it just seems a curious melange of styles. The adventure starts with a birthday. If accurate, it actually starts with a missed birthday. Missed, but not forgotten. With my long-suffering partner in tow, we headed to Tuscany to celebrate my venerable editors’ birthday in the comfort of a
Tuscan villa, awash with the local Brunello and the ubiquitous truffles. ‘Twas the season after all. Mr Robinson had secured a commercialspec Land Rover Defender 90, and due to a combination of flights, timings and previous night’s celebrations, transport from Pisa to the Villa would be on me. Emails flew to the darkest corners of the web, and as, almost like that star leading the three kings to Bethlehem. Militem came to the fore. Fly to Pisa, train to Florence, and then a cab ride to a Volvo dealership. Not quite what I was expecting; and then I saw her. In fairness, I couldn’t miss her. This is a car of quite mammoth proportions. Nigh on two metres high, employing a two inch lift kit, and
adorned with wide track and the fenders to match, stance is something it certainly has. At over 5.5 metres in length, it looks like it will be unwieldy in the extreme, but I guess we can only wait and see. As can sometimes be the case with these things, no one was expecting my arrival. My lack of even passable Italian meant that much gesticulation and gesturing flew back and forth, and in a blink of an eye, or a reasonable nap, I was handed the keys and wished on my way. Finished in a hue not dissimilar to Audi’s Nardo Grey, the Ferox-T cuts a mean silhouette. Inside, one is introduced to the Italian side of this
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curious combo, but an interior that is certainly one that could be classed as luxury. Through the use of high-grade materials and the liberal application of them; the cabin feels as special inside as the outside does rugged. The leather is of an obviously high grade, and paired with the utilitarian tactility of Alcantara, it is an interior reminiscent of something you would find in a Porsche or a Range Rover, say. Switchgear is similar to the factory spec, bar the addition of switches for the four-wheel drive system and for the roof-mounted LED strip light. Modern essentials such as Apple Carplay, heated seats et al are all present and the interior is a curious contrast to the exterior. Each model in the Militem line-up has over 1000 preproduction hours and over 200 hours go into each individual build. The team are eager to stress that these are bespoke builds and nothing is, in theory, an impossibility. Deployable side steps activate with a Verhoeven-esque mechanical whir, they are a necessity on the Ferox-T rather than purely for style. A high driving position
“already Next to a car that is rather large, the
Ferox-T is another level, or seven above even that. Longer, wider and taller, it made a mockery of Italian parking spaces, nose proudly a metre past the line.
”
aids manoeuvrability, but only in so much that it can do with a car of this size. The Ferox T is powered by a Pentastar 3.5 litre V6 engine mated to an 8-speed gearbox. Progress could never be described as brisk; I am pretty convinced that’s not the point. The gearing as well is curious. A super long first gear can have one screaming down the road somewhat, but city and urban traffic is easy enough to get through; I’m sure over would probably be an option as well. The drive to the villa was a fairly uneventful two-hour jaunt mostly spent on the motorway system. The Ferox-T performed well, a comfortable, if slightly bouncy ride at motorway speeds; but having Waze and my podcast choices displayed on the infotainment screen made it a simple enough task. We met our companions in a lovely little town and parked next to the Defender, partly as it signalled a point where should all else fail, we could meet. It was then that the true size really hits home. Next to a car that is already rather large, the Ferox-T is another level, or
seven above even that. Longer, wider and taller, it made a mockery of Italian parking spaces, nose proudly a metre past the line. It was at this juncture; things became even more interesting when I noticed some latches to the front cabin roof. What have we here? It turns out, in an almost sedanca style, the front cabin roof is removable. So, it’s basically a lifted, pick up Jeep Gladiator Rubicon. Targa. How brilliant is that? Sorry, I mean bonkers, how bonkers is that? The drive back to the villa, roof attached, posed a little more of an issue. With the raised ride height and a concentration towards off road prowess, the Ferox-T can be decidedly wallowy on the off-camber peaks and troughs of the Tuscan countryside. The ratio of the gearbox means additionally it is searching around somewhat for the appropriate gear, but in fairness, its road manners are no worse than say a pre-facelift Mercedes G Wagon. One just needs to be mindful of what is under you and try not to daydream into thinking you’re in that 1960’s convertible. Roof off or otherwise. What one certainly gets in the Ferox-T, is attention. A group of elderly Italian men and I spent a good half hour discussing the car, neither of us versed in the others language. We got by. Randomly it helped that the village housed a Rubicon already. A daytrip to the simply spectacular medieval town of Siena was also taken in. Should any of the readers be acquainted to Siena, you will be aware as to how amusing a prospect that is. Twenty minutes adjusting the car into a space. Back and forth. Adjusting and readjusting space to proximate cars. It turns out, as evidenced from my recent email and fine, it wasn’t even a parking space. What it was, was just far enough into the city walls to make the sights accessible, but not so deep as to make leaving an impossibility. Having said that, given the quality of the porchetta and truffle cream focaccia on offer, there are worse places to be stranded. Even outside of the city’s walls, the Ferox-T is a large thing to get around. But despite its girth, with the usual care and attention, it was easy enough to keep it within the white lines demarking lanes; something the Italian drivers in vehicles far smaller than mine seem unable to accomplish. Once moving, it’s simple enough to put where you want it, and even if it were to go wrong, you’re either going to be safe and well inside the shell or the other person is coming off worse. There are of course real-world drawbacks. As I said, with the lift kit and fancy suspension modifications, its ride isn’t exactly refined for the road let’s say. The huge knobbly tyres cut some fearsome noise at motorway speeds, and it isn’t exactly frugal. The flatbed becomes your only real luggage space, and whilst that aided a wood collection for the fireplace, it
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doesn’t make for the best storage for a couple of Tumi cases for a three-day jaunt. But there is a charm about it partly due to all those things. Take those funny hinges. Remove the top, and yes, its noisy, and there is no discernible use, but my god, what fun. Simple pleasures and all that. It’s a shame that we didn’t venture into some wild locations. The extensive suspension and four-wheel drive system are probably the piece of the puzzle that would elevate it into more than simply a toy. It probably needs a run through an off-road course with some instruction to really showcase its skills, which I can genuinely imagine to be pretty formidable. For me, it was restricted to the kilometre of dirt track leading to the villa, which when returning at night, with the light
bar casting quite alarming wattage on the situation, the Ferox-T could be manhandled at a fair old lick. It could be argued that the Militem Ferox-T may be one of the most ostentatious and phallic symbols available in the car market today, but that is categorically doing it, and them, a disservice. The car is superbly put together. The use of materials is well thought out and however strangely, suits the car wonderfully well. Everything works, from the light bar and side steps to the infotainment systems and parking sensors. No rattles, knocks or drips. Panel gaps are good. It may not fit into a standard parking space, and yes, for day-to-day use, it isn’t by any means
optimally set up. But as a weekend toy, which quite frankly is what I envisage the majority of drives will be, I can’t think of many other cars that can decimate terrain, with a bed full of wood, or people I guess, whilst the front passengers bask in the open air and everyone is draped in high-quality Italian leather. I can’t think of any. For that I applaud them. TR
Specifications PRICE AS TESTED: £82,845 ENGINE: 3.6 L V6 Pentastar HP: 385 L/W/H: 5520, 2030, 1950 WEIGHT: 2460 kg TOW CAPACITY: 3,500 kg
ALPINE ESSENTIALS Words: Naomi Lake and Peter J Robinson It’s an outdoor, adventure kind of getaway. You’re wild swimming in Norway, enjoying hot springs in Iceland, or the steaming jacuzzi of your private chalet, tucked high in the hills of Mount Yotei. Maybe you’re running out from your glass igloo to your sauna in Rovaniemi, Lapland as the snow falls around you. Regardless of your expedition, we’ve got you covered.
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THERM-IC POWERSOCK www.therm-ic.com
Many moons ago, when learning to ski in Zermatt, I purchased a fine pair of ski socks from Stoked, who were pleased to charge me the same amount as a decent mountain meal for two. Socks and boots might well be the two most important elements to get right for a season in the mountains. Therm-ic men’s socks are designed for intensive skiing as well as outdoor sports. Thanks to high-tech materials and maximum functionality guaranteed by X-socks technology, Therm-ic heated socks circulate heat throughout the entire foot.
OLANG PIAVE www.olang.co.uk
Not all alpine wear needs to look like you’ve just finished a Mad Max sledge down the mountain adorned in Cruella de Vil’s collection of fur. The Piave Tex in Black from Olang has a Goodyear rubber-soled boot, thermal thinsulate lining Isowarm -30 rated insole and advanced Breathetex membrane. Not to mention how handsome they are.
OLANG MERIBEL www.olang.co.uk
Less rugged-looking than the Piave, the Meribel still benefits from the Breathe.Tex waterproof membrane. It has both a hydro suede upper and virgin wool lining alongside a shearling cuff. Very fetching indeed.
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SALICE CENTURY
SALICE CENTURY
Aptly called ‘Century’, this goggle marks 100 years of Salice developing their frames and lenses to ensure the best possible vision for the slopes.
The Century comes with Zeiss lenses that are cylindrical and frames available in a wide range of colours to match every on-piste ensemble.
www.salice.co.uk
SALICE 3047
www.salice.co.uk
www.olang.co.uk
Any mountain dweller worth their salt will have far too many pairs of shades to actually choose from. The largest collection we’ve ever seen was that of Marco Furger, Andermatt Mountain Guide and all-round hero. The Salice 3047 has a UV400 lens rating ensuring protection against 100% of UVA, B and C rays.
DALEBOOT VFF www.daleboot.com
Daleboot is widely regarded as a leader in the field when it comes to boot fitting technology. Ever heard of or skied in a foaminjected liner? You knew you were skiing in a DaleBoot patent, right? That’s right, patent number 3,581,412 - covering both twopart non-expanding urethane elastomer and gas expanding urethane foam - was issued to DaleBoot back on June 1st 1971. Whilst we’ve not gone through the process, the VFF is designed for skiers who require greater levels of forward flex while pounding bumps, skiing powder, freeriding, touring or just cruising in comfort.
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RG1-DX PRIME www.ruroc.com
Try on a Ruroc helmet and we’re pretty sure you’ll see the light instantly. The RG1 DX is the brand’s best-selling helmet to date. It features audio compatibility, magnetic Fidlock chin-strap, RAID ventilation system, fog-free magnetic lenses and goggles, Recco avalanche rescue protection and rheon impact absorption liner. All RG1-DX Magloc goggles ship with a dark lens. We’ve not tested the RG1 Shockpods, so watch this space.
RG1-
RG1-DX C www.ruroc.com
The RG1-DX faceultimate protection impacts and eleme safety tested to -20 it will hold its own extreme blizzards.
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CORE
-mask is the n against the ents. Tried-and0 degrees celsius, n in the most .
RG1-DX PRIME www.ruroc.com
The RG1-DX Prime comes with our Magloc goggles included, but you can further customise the look of your helmet with a choice of 16 different lenses to cater to all tastes and conditions. With seamless helmet integration to optimise airflow eliminates fogging, while the patented RAID ventilation system channels air up and through the helmet, dumping it out the back to keep your temperature regulated.
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STEINER THERMAL TOP www.peeqsports.co.uk
Soft Tec is a blend of fabrics offering comfort and durability for a variety of activities. Thermals are essential in the mountain so choose yours wisely. This longsleeve thermal vest has flatlock seams for no chaffing or irritation, extensive moisture wicking for the active user and low air permeability.
COLMAR SALOPETTES
www.colmar.it
These Colmar salopettes are made of 100% recycled polyester mechanical laminated stretch fabric, waterproof and breathable and padded with Clomax Movefree stretch wadding. Partially heat-sealed. The soft stretch lining is a guarantee of technicality and comfort. The use of recycled fabric and the eco-sustainable water repellent Teflon EcoElite treatment are part of the Colmar Green Path project, aiming to respect the environment as much as possible
SEALSKINZ www.ellis-brigham.com
This versatile, water-repellent all-weather glove is lightweight and fleece, ideal for everyday use in cool to cold conditions. Featuring nanotechnology, they’re breathable, fast drying and offer permanent water repellency.
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PLANKS ANORAK www.planksclothing.com
Warm and breathable, keeping you comfortable for any amount of activity, Planks RideDRY10 fabric blends over 50% recycled yarn, made from post-consumer plastic bottles. They are going a run further too, with the whole No Skiing On Mars capsule collection, supporting Protect Our Winters carbon literacy campaign, educating businesses on their carbon footprint and most importantly, how to reduce it.
PLANKS FUN-GAREES
www.planksclothing.com
The Women’s Fun-Garees are lightweight, perfectly contoured for easy movement, and keep you warm without any added dimension in places you’d rather slim down. When you finally want to get out of them, zips at the hips make for an easy out, balancing the svelte cut with the ease of exit. Same for the Women’s No Skiing On Mars Overstoke Anorak, a handy under-arm zip means you can whip it off effortlessly as soon as you step in for Aprés. Trying to find vegan-friendly gear for the slopes has been an interesting task over the years, especially when you want something made to last and stylish, too. Well, Planks are here and they are nailing the brief.
HOLLAND COOPER www.hollandcooper.com
Inspired by all things Equestrian, this HC base layer uses a heavy brushed polyamide fabric with added Teflon coating for water and snow resistance. It’s designed with a body-contouring fit and high neckline.
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DRYROBE LONG SLEEVE www. dryrobe.com
Whatever the activity, Dry Robe advance long-sleeve robe will keep you cosy with its wind and waterproof outer lining, and quick-drying synthetic sheepskin inner lining. Designed to be worn over wet gear, and with enough space to change inside too, it’s all you need to make the transition from water to the hotel room as comfortable as can be. I’ll take mine in black camo pink, because, as the most cheeky of combinations, why not?
CARV
www.getcarv.com Full disclosure: we’ve not tried Carv in the flesh, but the feedback from those in the know is strong. 36 pressure sensors in your boot insert and a motion sensor form a digital instructor in your pocket. Are you engaging your edge? Turning smoothly? Leaning back too far? Carv will become your alpine oracle no doubt.
WEEDO PANDA www.weedofunwear.co.uk
Allow your kids to run wild and free this winter without fear as the WeeDo Suit is waterproof and breathable with a tough outer to stop wear and tear. Including impact resistant zones around the knees and elbows and also grow zones where you can alter the fit to grow with your child. WeeDo also makes sure they only use eco-friendly fabric
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REACH YOUR SUMMIT CONNECTED
ALPINERX SMART OUTDOORS
No Charging Required: 2+ Years Battery Power Temperature + UV Indicator + Barometer + Altitude Connected GPS + Compass + Heart Rate Monitoring 100M/300FT Water-Resistant