The Review - Alpine Edition 22-23

Story by Florean Smout

Story by Peter J Robinson

Story by Naomi Lake

Story by Barney Oates

Story by John Sterling

Story by Peter J Robinson

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the alpine agenda

INTERVIEW GEROLD BINER

TRAVEL THE ALPINA GSTAAD P-12

TRAVEL VERBIER P-38 P-32 P-22

TRAVEL THE GLACIER EXPRESS

Yasmin and Amber Le Bon wear ASHOKA

CALL

CALL SIGN:AIR ZERMATT

Words: Peter J Robinson

Founded in 1968 with an Agusta-Bell 206A Jet Ranger as their steed, Air Zermatt was one of the first rescue companies in Switzerland. Throughout their 54 year history, they’ve completed daring rescues on the North Face of the Eiger, tackled raging forest fires and developed equipment that was not only a quantum leap forward but set the international standard. They are, simply put, the epitome of Alpine mountain rescue. As the ski season starts with aplomb, Peter Robinson returns to Zermatt to meet Air Zermatt CEO and decorated Mountain Rescuer, Gerold Biner. With more than 15,000 flying hours and 5000 flights under his belt, Gerold truly is King of the Skies.

espite visiting Zermatt on numerous occasions over the last two decades, I have never flown over the town and into the mountain range to witness the majesty of the region from the air.

I have, however, seen countless sorties flying over the mountain village and onto the slopes to rescue those in the greatest of need over the years. With thirteen pilots across three air bases piloting 11 helicopters, and an army of mechanics, paramedics and flight personnel, Air Zermatt has come a long way since 1968. I joined the team for a flight around the Matterhorn to see just how the Air Zermatt pilots tackle high altitude, extreme temperatures and incredibly unpredictable weather in the harshest of conditions.

I didn’t realise we were going to fly up and over the Matterhorn, Gerold.

Did you see the tracks?

We did see some lines.

Well, they’re on the east face of the Hörnli Ridge. There are a few tracks - at this time of year, we call them potential clients.

I wasn’t expecting to see the refuges and huts so close up, either.

There is a big debate about the huts on the ridge - should they be there or not? So many climbers don’t have the skills needed and aren’t physically strong enough to do it the way you should. Up in three hours, back in maximum four hours, ideally.

I wonder how Ulrich Inderbinen would have felt about the way the Matterhorn is climbed today. Given that he preferred to take bookings face to face, and would sit in the town square offering his guiding skills in person only.

Sure. Whilst I was a completely different generation, I knew Ulrich quite well. I have quite a few funny stories about him. You know - once he was in the Monte Rosa hut, they were desperately looking for a mountain guide but they could not find anyone. So, the warden called the office and said maybe I can ask Ulrich, but he was already 85 or something. He said “hey I can do Monte Rosa,

Dit’s the highest peak”. His guests arrived at the hut and, historically, you had a big list of all the mountain guides. This German client shows up and he’s asking “what’s the name of my mountain guide?”. The warden said “Ahh, well you’re very lucky, it’s going to be Ulrich Inderbinen”. The German client looks at the list and see’s Ulrich’s name and next to it, 1900. He says “that must be a mistake, he’s going to die, no? Will I even be back by 9pm?”.

So Ulrich shows up, and, you know, he goes into the kitchen, says hello and starts prepping the climb. The next morning the guest has no choice but to go with him. They went on, got to the top and the guest was totally exhausted. He then starts to complain that the guide is going too fast. Ulrich says: next time, if you want to go a little bit slower, you might want to look for an older guide.

You grew up here, and I am sure you have endless stories about Zermatt when it was a very different time back when the village was a lot smaller.

Actually yes, it was. You see that yellow crane, on the left hand side there is a small hotel? That’s where my mum grew up. When they were building this hotel all the other ones from the village said “you are crazy to go so far out of the village!” because the village was on the riverside, on the right. When my mum went to school she had to walk for five minutes to reach the first house. And this is where my father grew up. So whenever my mother was complaining about my father, I said

“Every morning when I can cycle down to the base, I am happy. I just told that to my student today. He is 80. I’m teaching him to fly in the mountains.”

PHOTO: MARCO PROSCH

“why did you marry the first guy you saw in the village?”. But yes, it has changed a lot, especially here. Of course, all the buildings came closer to the helipad over time.

How long has the helipad been here and operational?

Since, ‘71.

So you came here right after your military apprenticeship to work maintenance, didn’t you?

Yes exactly. ‘Gerold Biner the Window Cleaner’that’s what they called me here.

Still?

Yeah, I’m still cleaning the windows if needed. Today I’m in the kitchen and on duty.

It must be a culture shock to have worked here for so long, and to have seen the town expand to this level. You’re also flying more sorties than ever before.

You know, I spent 16 years in the community council and we all think it’s getting crowded. However, the construction area is just one percent of the whole territory. It’s 240km wide, and only perhaps 1 square km is used for construction. So there are still spots left. I guess the secret is that we could keep everything between the families. We don’t have big investors or big hotel chains, and in fact, we have 128 hotels but everything is owned by locals. Now the problem is that the first generation was building it up, the second generation used it, and now the third generation are moving far away, taking studies in Zurich and Bern. They do not want to come back to work day and night, and as such it starts to get a little bit tricky, because quite a few hotels will be sold in the future.

You’re still living in the village, aren’t you? Can we see your place from the helipad with binoculars?

See this crane? On the right-hand side of that building - close to the forest - that’s mine. Actually it’s the bank’s, and not mine.

What’s not the banks, right? You’ve been here for 30-40 years, do you still enjoy it every day? You still wake up with the same zest, the same passion for it?

Every morning when I can cycle down to the base, I am happy. I just told that to my student today. He is 80. I’m teaching him to fly in the mountains.

You’re going from maintenance to pilot to CEO. Then book releases, TV, politics… So what do you do after that?

Honestly, I have no idea. I don’t think it’s going to be boring. I have so many projects and so many things I could be involved in. Our newest developments are virtual reality simulators for flight training - we’re building one now. There are also a few projects and pilots we’re working with.

Fred North is one that does a lot of Hollywood filming. He had some ideas on how to train young guys on specific turns; how to fly for aerial cinematography, in the mountains.

I’m also quite involved in a project in Nepal. We have an association there and we’re building a hospital. I will head back next year and try to go for three or four weeks. I mostly go to India, that’s my second home.

How did India become a second home?

I just fly helicopters there. In the northern part, very close to Ladakh. It’s a very narrow part of India. We’ve got a helicopter base there and we’ve been doing heliskiing for over twenty years. It’s mind-blowing.

the whole CO2. The helicopters are down to about 2%.

Because it’s noisy and it’s not cheap you get into this cliche where people say “only rich people take pleasure flights, and isn’t it useless?”. However, heliskiing and sightseeing flights are so important for us for basic training, otherwise we would have to burn kerosene to complete each training with zero turnover. This is also why we go to Turkey and to the Himalayas to do heliskiing. We do lots of take off and landing drills to really fine tune the pilots, enabling them to do very difficult rescue missions here. That’s really important for us.

The pilot that took us up was telling us that someone recently fell into a crevasse on the glacier, and was there for 48hrs?

That was a 19 year old girl actually, wearing only hot pants and sneakers. She was so lucky; some other people heard her screaming and raised the alarm, so we could go and get her.

That could have been it for her, right? To my mind, if you fall down a crevasse, then no one’s finding you on a glacier.

Gerold is, of course, rather modest in regards to the company’s efforts in the region. In 2009, a specialist team from Zermatt was sent into the Nepalese Langtang Lirung massif at 6000 metres above sea level to rescue an extreme climber. After the rescue, the Nepalese authorities, helicopter companies, expedition leaders and trekking guides all agreed that a local team needed to be put on standby. With support from the Zermatt Emergency Medical Center, the local community and Hamilton - Air Zermatt’s sponsor - they were able to train the Simrik Air rescue crew in Nepal. Since 2011, they have been the fully independent and operational rescue team serving the region.

We’ve been talking a lot the past few days about sustainability, given Zermatt’s location, and maintaining the hydrological cycle and balance that’s key to the region.

It’s something that we’ve talked about a lot on the council, and we’ve found out some interesting facts. We’re part of a club called Clean Cities. You have to reduce your amount of CO2 of course. When we were doing our research and putting the figures together, I thought: kerosene, helicopters… this isn’t going to be good. But we checked in detail. In Zermatt, we’re producing half the national carbon footprint average of Switzerland per inhabitant. And more than 60% of our CO2 emissions are from the heating systems like oil. We have more than one million litres of diesel used for the groomers and that makes maybe 10% of

On Saturday, up on the Klein Matterhorn, a couple were walking. They went maybe fifteen metres off the slopes, and bang! The husband goes down, maybe twenty metres. It was a narrow crevasse, and then the rest of the snow fell on him. Sadly, we had no more than an hour to get the body out.

It’s very serious work. How do you and the team deal with that, because emotionally it must be really taxing?

Yes. From the outside, it’s difficult to see. You think these pilots are machines, but they’re not different from anybody else, you know. We are dealing with over 2000 rescue missions a year, and we have 5060 casualties a year. As we don’t have enough snow on the glacier we know we will have a big problem with crevasse intervention. So how do we deal with it? It’s quite difficult.

Everyone’s a little bit different. I know quite a few pilot colleagues that quit the job because they could not handle it - they had trouble sleeping, and things like that. But I think you have to learn and you have to accept that you can give your best but sometimes… We talk a lot amongst ourselves, the whole crew, even when you’re on the mission or when you are back having a coffee, you just have to talk. It’s like a debriefing. However, the tough part is to learn to put that away, to forget it. I say to our young pilots: every rescue mission has a file, you have to put it somewhere and store it. You might call on it again when you want to talk about it, but you need to file it away.

After many years I have completed maybe 5000 rescue missions, but you always remember the last one. You have to pack it away at some point, it’s the only way to survive.

It’s got to be so tough in practice.

“Our newest developments are virtual reality simulators for flight training so we’re building one now.”

PHOTO: THOMAS BAUMANN

PHOTO: CHRISTIAN PFAMMATTER

It is tough. Especially for the younger guys. We have a young guy who’s on dispatch, this is the first time he has had to confront death. So we need to be careful. But that’s part of life.

I imagine there was a time when confronting death wasn’t so commonplace: you learnt to pilot in Canada. How did you get from (what I hope was the charming sleepy mountain village) Zermatt, to - was it East or West Coast?

East Coast, Nova Scotia. We had a pilot here who had a good friend in Canada who used to have a flight school. I was keen to go, and here in Switzerland it was very expensive to learn at that time. So most of the young pilots went to Canada or the US to just get a basic commercial pilot’s licence. That’s how I got to Nova Scotia.

There was a time when you were thinking of going on to be a professional athlete at one point, right? Before you decided to be a pilot, of course.

You’ve read my book haven’t you?

Not yet I’m afraid. I did watch the Netflix documentary on you and the operation. But I understand the road less travelled. At some point you saw a helicopter taking off and landing, and instantly you know that’s what you wanted to do.

You know, as a young boy that was my dream. It was difficult, because my dad was a super sporty guy - he was a very good skier. He could have joined the national team but my grandfather, his father, insisted he worked in the bakery. Then he became a very good ice hockey player, and once again my grandfather said the same: you have to stay and work in the bakery. Of course, he did some competitions and other sports but he didn’t really get to fulfil his talent. I had the prospect to go and have a career as a professional ice hockey player and then later on to play tennis, but I said no. At 16 I was supposed to go to a national tennis centre but I decided instead to become

an engineer. Everyone said I was crazy, as not everyone gets this chance. It was hard for me to make that decision, but I played second league here and hurt my knee… and then my career was over. So I was so lucky to choose this career and to have listened to my heart, so that I could still work.

It’s at this point that Gerold is called back into the sky once again for his final sortie of the day. Luckily, this time it’s moving construction cargo into the mountains: a far less grizzly task than the men and women of Air Zermatt are too often faced with. I ask him if he has time later to meet for a drink, in order to tell me more stories of derring-do.

“We have beer on draught here in the hangar - let me get you one, and I will join you when I get back”.

Of course there’s beer on draught in the hangar. I would, after all, expect no less from Gerold and the team at Air Zermatt.

For further details please visit: www.air-zermatt.ch

TR

PHOTO: CHRISTIAN PFAMMATTER

The AlpinaGstaad

Words: Peter J Robinson

s we flew east over Montreux, I gazed out across the Alps as they rippled into the horizon, gently reflecting across the jet black wing of the PC12. In one hand, I held a fresh croissant, destined to explode across the cabin and dust my grey overcoat with delicate pastry in abundance. In the other, a hot black coffee I had been nursing to a drinkable temperature since we banked over Lake Geneva. I pressed my Cubitts sunglasses up the bridge of my nose and bit down. I was returning to the mountains for the first time in what felt like two long winters apart. I felt, at least by my standard, some degree of serenity.

“We’re landing in about five minutes, guys”, Captain Martin from the Haute Aviation team called from the cockpit. “Are we looping around Gstaad South East Martin?”, “Yes indeed, it’s going to be a beautiful view out over the crest on the right side”. I watched as skiers crisscrossed the piste down Mount Eggli in the warm midday sun beneath azure bluebird skies. I also clocked our final destination below, The Alpina Gstaad, perched on a picturesque hilltop area called Oberbort. As the wheels of the PC12 touched down, I took my final sip of coffee and stepped out into the mountain air, ready for what I was already calling in my head The Holy Trinity: Blessed be the Peter, the Plane and the Powder.

Let’s set the scene.

Gstaad. Kelly, Bardot, Burton, Sellers and lest we forget the founder of The Eagle Ski Club, the 7th Earl of Warwick. Understandably, Gstaad is an established location for those looking for a secluded sojourn or matriculating to Rosey. It also plays host to the Swiss Open, Hublot Polo Gold Cup and boasts 200 kilometres of slopes at 1000-3000 metres. I wasn’t here to covet those amongst us with a blue tick or join the masses at an open-air arena, however. I was bound for The Alpina Gstaad and well-prepared to press pause for as long as I possibly could.

Occupying a five-acre hilltop area in Oberbort, The Alpina Gstaad is the first new 5* hotel in Gstaad for a century, and with that comes a certain level of responsibility.

Gstaad is a very private town. As such, the sweeping driveway and subterranean entrance is suitably concealed deep beneath its landscaped gardens. It’s discreet and if you have an entourage or sizable family on your coattails, it’s ideal for quiet arrivals… not that you won’t see a DB9, or Mulsanne parked neatly in the porte cochère. The natural stone and domed skylight to the gardens

Aabove do make for a very tranquil first impression. Did I mention the underground waterfall?

Stepping over the threshold, you’re met by a grand staircase, flanked by bountiful springtime floral displays. The sustainable pop up is a collaboration with the hotel and Pangaia, an innovative materials science company whose range includes puffer jackets made with bio-based, animal-free FLWRDWN™. In short, wildflowers. It’s the CO2Made® polycarbonate lenses in their sunglasses that piqued my interest, ‘Carbon reincarnated is catchy by anyone’s definition .

Suspended high above the reception area and staircase is a soaring ornate baroque ceiling that dates back to the 17th century. It was installed in 32 pieces using joists and hangers, and like so much of the hotel, this trompe l’oeil ceiling was salvaged. It’s a town planning prerequisite if you want to build a six-story property with 56 balconied rooms and suites. Despite this, the Alpina Gstaad knows what

it owes when it stands on the carbon offset scales. After all, they’re gold certified by EarthCheck, which certainly cannot have been a quick win. This drive for sustainability permeates everything they do, from the beehives manned by beekeeper Stefan Neuhaus to Executive Chef Martin Göschel’s zero-waste philosophy. Note Elizabeth Wampfler, of Jaggi & Partner’s, beautiful 10-foot reception desk, which I am told was salvaged due to a tip from a local farmer, who mentioned spotting a fallen ash a few valleys over.

Despite the best-laid plans of mice and men, it was highly unlikely I was going to make it onto the piste before the lifts closed that afternoon. So after a wellpolished check-in, we made for our grand luxe suite on the hotel’s 4th floor.

Whilst all 56 rooms and suites are spacious affairs boasting floor to ceiling windows and terraces, the grand luxe suite is more akin to a luxury apartment. The suite’s walls are clad with warm, rough fir wood installed by Chaletbau Matti and furnished with a period hand-painted cocktail cabinet and trunks. The open plan 98 square metre suite has an alpine stone fireplace and obligatory wingbacks,

The days of this society is numbered. The words stood tall, stencilled into a lofty floor to ceiling mirror.”

LEFT: THE OUTDOOR POOL AT THE ALPINA GSTAAD AFFORDS QUITE THE VIEW

a large walk-in wardrobe, chaise and corner sofa, and a dining table, king-size bed and south-facing balcony. The style is contemporary and refined with flourishes of traditional embellishment, such as stitching to key upholstery and embroidery that provides subtle contrasting points throughout. I thought I ought to find a comparative note at this point, that I should try and conceive of a region or property I had visited that would serve as a benchmark for how strong The Alpina Gstaad really is. I tend to spend several weeks in the mountains each year filming with my Producer hat on, and we usually opt for chalet accommodation given the team size we travel with. Simply put, the suites at The Alpina Gstaad are as authentic and well-appointed as any of the chalets I have visited in Zermatt and Verbier. Let me put it in terms hedgies can understand. When the hotel opened in 2012, the budget was $336 million - which, in terms of cost-per-room, works out to $5 million. The detail is in the Contardi Italia re-fashioned leather straps for the cowbell bedside lamps. It’s in the oversized headboard in the duplex suite that had to be helilifted onto the hotel balcony. As I said, The Alpina Gstaad has a responsibility to itself and the region, and it’s clearly one they’re taking on with aplomb.

With the prospect of making it up to altitude a distant memory, I made for the cigar room. “The days of this society is numbered”. The words stood tall, stencilled into a lofty floor to ceiling mirror. Created by Rirkrit Tiravanija, a Thai conceptual and installation artist, the piece is a commentary on commodity fetishism and contemporary consumer culture. Guy Debord’s 1967 work of philosophy and Marxist critical theory; The Society of the Spectacle declared: “The days of this society are numbered; its reasons and its merits have been weighed in the balance and have been found wanting; its inhabitants are divided into two sides, one of which wants this society to disappear.” Works of note frequently appear throughout the hotel with pieces rotated monthly from the private collections of Nachson Mimran and Marcel Bach. You’ll pass Tracey Emin’s “And I Said I Love You!” and John M Armleder’s Zakk Wylde II on your way through the bar to the hotel’s cigar lounge. The walk-in humidor has a strong selection of over 35 different cigars, but it’s the pre-Castro Havana mahogany panelling and general 1930’s chic decor with fabrics from De La Cuona and Loro Piana that really stay with you. The pattern on the mahogany panelling is actually modelled on Bach’s favoured salón in Havana. Despite the inviting surroundings, I decided to step outside to tour the Jean Mus designed gardens with a cigar in hand.

I usually find the best way to get the general cut and thrust of the clientele at any property is to take a seat at the bar. This altar to imbibement is made of hammered bronze and offers a commanding view over the lounge area, and across the terrace to the mountains beyond. Dinner that evening was a relaxed affair, as guests started to return from

the slopes and locals arrived for drinks clutching reservations. The Alpina Gstaad’s culinary offering includes Megu’s first European outpost, which Gault Millau named ‘Switzerland’s top Asian restaurant’. Sommet by Martin Göschel is their fine dining restaurant, which in addition to all-day dining and a Michelin star, offers a gourmet tasting menu. You’ll also find a classic Swiss Stübli on-site, complete with traditional découpage by Anne Rosat adorning the walls. However, having spent most of the day travelling, I opted for a rather over-eager order of steak tartare, pastrami sandwich, oysters and an overnight slow-cooked veal spare rib. Lounge-style dining brings out the gourmand in us all.

The following morning I was filled with zeal for my first day on the slopes. I forwent the usual glee with

which I can encircle a breakfast buffet and opted instead for room service. Miniature hash browns were my only real guilty pleasure amongst the fresh fruit and granola.

You’ll find Silver Sport - the hotel’s in-house ski boutique - stocked to the gills with all manner of alpine accoutrements, not to mention, Zai skis. I met Benoit, my instructor from the Altitude Ski and Snowboard School outside, and after a brief discussion about taking the hotel’s Tesla or transporter, we decided to make haste. I suspect Benoit was a little worried that his Renault Clio wouldn’t cut it for me, but little did I care. To get to the slopes that morning I would have dragged myself across concrete.

After two years off the mountain, I suspected that

CLOCKWISE FROM RIGHT: THE LOBBY AND ALPINA LOUNGE BAR; THE CIGAR LOUNGE; THE VINOTHEQUE

bringing a guide to iron out any kinks in my form was a necessity. That being said, if you’re skiing new terrain for the first time, it pays to bring a seasoned pro regardless. I wouldn’t have found the 1150m vertical descent into the town of Rougemont from the summit at La Videmanette without Benoit. I also highly recommend downloading Fat Map. It’s an essential for me and if I am headed off the groomers and into the unknown, it’s nothing short of mandatory. The Eggli ski area covers 58 km of mainly blue slopes, but linking together runs to Saanen and Rougemont kept me more than occupied all morning. I capped off the day with après at a little pop-up bar below the Schopfen drag lift. Obligatory aperol and house music tend to be the soundtrack to most days on piste, and Gstaad isn’t exactly renowned for non-stop nightlife but still benefits from several apres-ski bars and more

sophisticated nightspots in the town.

If you are looking for a bigger finish to your first day, Paragliding from the top of the Luftseilbahn with Fabrice Bielmann from Paragliding Gstaad is the way to go. Fabrice has been flying for over 34 years and runs a team of more than 15 professional pilots in Gstaad. Ask the concierge team and they’ll be happy to arrange a flight for you to soar high above the Saanenland with him.

With some time on my hands before dinner, a more expansive tour was in order. Having spent many hours in screening rooms I can confidently say the spacious private cinema is no afterthought. Kitted for a large family evening in, corporate launch or pop up, I have no doubt the hotel’s meeting and events team could take any request in their stride.

“

I wouldn’t have found the 1150m vertical descent into the town of Rougemont from the summit at La Videmanette without Benoit. ”

Spending time in the mountains should ideally be restorative for mind and body, and accordingly, The Alpina Gstaad has the first alpine Six Senses spa in residence. The subterranean space houses a 20,000-square-foot retreat offering a host of thermal experiences, a flotation room, 85-footlong lap pool and offers Asian wellness traditions alongside locally inspired Swiss Alpine treatments. Their philosophy is that of ‘Balancing Senses’. There is also a wealth of daily Yoga practices and wellness experiences available to guests. Personally, I would head for the spas’ Himalayan Salt Grotto where I took to indulging in a rejuvenating daily power nap after returning from the mountains. For an in-depth guide, read Florean Smout’s review of the Six Senses Tibetan Healing retreat on page 00.

During our three-night stay at The Alpina Gstaad, we made reservations at Megu and Sommet by Martin Göschel. Head Chef Tsutomu Kugota lead the service at Megu, having trained at the restaurant’s flagship in New York. Megu’s bold yet elegant interior was created by French-born designer Noé Duchaufour-Lawrance, who is also renowned for his work with Hermès and the BSL gallery in Paris. The interior was inspired by the temples of Kyoto and incorporates antique kimonos and blonde alpine wood. Try the tempura of seasonal vegetables and shrimp followed by the carpaccio of yellowtail with Kanzuri dressing. It’s sublime. The namban chicken and crispy Kanzuri shrimps are both dishes worth adding to your order. Despite ordering a wildly extravagant selection, we followed up with not only the chef’s sushi selection but the silver Cod marinated in Saikyo miso with

lotus root. If you aren’t an established fan of saké, you haven’t been properly initiated - I assure you. Megu’s saké list includes some rarities imported exclusively for The Alpina Gstaad. If you’ve any room left, try the crispy green asparagus crumbed with piquant Japanese rice crackers and lemon. Delicious. Ultimately, the decor, the dining and the service are a tour de force.

Despite an array of culinary options, the flagship, at least as far as Michelin are concerned, is Sommet by Martin Göschel. Göschel started out at two-star Michelin Restaurant Bareiss in 1993 before moving to Tigerpalast Varieté Theater in Frankfurt. He joined the establishment in 2017 with a focus on cultivating local farmers, artisanal cheesemakers and ultimately ushered in a zero-waste approach by championing seasonal ingredients and supporting

local and regional producers. The menu has many well-rehearsed and interesting dishes, but with a Michelin star comes a tasting menu for the ages. Carpaccio of langoustine with Imperial caviar certainly set the tone for the evening. Given a newfound appreciation for Swiss wines, we ensured our entire flight was peppered with cantonal favourites from the sommelier.

In keeping with its sustainability credentials, The Alpina Gstaad maintains a bee colony of seven beehives with 50,000 bees in each. Once you’ve made your fifth batch of artisan honey and ensured biodiversity and cross-pollination, what is a chef to do? It seems the answer to this question is to cook your fresh sole in beeswax at the table. Far from a party piece, the resultant honey glazed dish takes

on a richness from the process, the likes of which this journalist has never encountered. To follow, it’s Martin Göschel’s langoustine ravioli served on dappled copper-effect tableware. Evidently so good they decided to make it a signature, and rightly so. Somewhere in between the ravioli and the Étouffée pigeon breast, I noticed the Ann Carrington sculptures in the restaurant. Specially commissioned for The Alpina Gstaad the series of Swiss cow and mountain goat horns are forged from hundreds of old bone and horn-handled knives and forks. The decor and atmosphere is contemporary yet informal, resplendent in my particular preferred brand of low lighting. It’s extraordinarily tough to choose a standout dish from a tasting menu, yet the sole cooked in Beeswax is still a dish I rave about to other chefs. However, for pomp and ceremony,

try pastry chef Khoris Othmane’s coconut and chocolate dessert; it explodes across the plate but I shan’t spoil it for you. The whole service is indeed something very special, with a sophisticated seasonal menu and distinctive decor it’s firmly penned into my ‘must return list’.

The Alpina Gstaad certainly sets the bar high, ushering in a new age of artisanal approach, culinary exploration and a world-class art collection while inspiring its guests to live a little more sustainably. It ticks off all the luxury pre-requisites whilst also priding itself on unsurmounted levels of discretion and privacy. If you’ve yet to touchdown in Gstaad this season, I advise a hasty call to your travel agent. See you on the mountain.

TR

FOR MORE INFORMATION VISITWWW.THEALPINAGSTAAD.CH

Born in the alps, bound for the world.

Ideally, you would be sitting in an Eames lounger for this with a set of SR-Lambda headphones clapped to your head, smoking a Sobranie and listening to Aline by Christophe. The smoke would billow around the room as an old Bolex projector played back-to-back Wes Anderson films. Surreal as it may sound, it’s akin to how I feel when I recline into a long train ride. For those of us that know, the Glacier Express Train takes one of the world’s most scenic journeys. Immortalised in cinema and literature since it first left the station in Zermatt on June 30th 1930, this historic train makes the stretch to St Moritz in eight hours. Having travelled by PC12 to Gstaad and then by road to Zermatt earlier that week, I was all too ready for the Golden Age of train travel again.

Over the last twenty years, I have crisscrossed Switzerland from the beautiful banks of Montreux and Neuchâtel to the snow-packed pistes of Verbier and Andermatt. Luckily, many of those trips have been by track, and they have afforded me the opportunity to see the country from a uniquely memorable perspective. One of the most fabled routes, without a shadow of a doubt, is that of The Glacier Express. As it exists today, the train is operated through the Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn (MGB) and Rhaetian Railway (RhB) cooperation. It passes through world heritage regions, travels over viaducts, and traverses the nation via charming valley towns and - of course - some of the most majestic glaciers which carve their way through the Swiss landscape. When the three train companies formed the Glacier Express, each put its best carriages forward to service the route. Notions surrounding luxury rail travel began in earnest in the mid-1880s towards the end of Queen Victoria’s

“

Having travelled by PC12 to Gstaad and then by road to Zermatt earlier that week, I was all too ready for the Golden Age of train travel again..”

reign; the Old World was beginning to attract thousands upon thousands of international visitors from the New, and deluxe railway travel was clearly on show. I’m not sure exactly when my preference for train travel was sparked, but the Glacier Express has been on my Wanderlust list for as long as I can remember. For me, it’s very much a family affair.

When my Grandfather was a young man and had served his time in the Merchant Navy and 51MT squadron, he opted to be demobbed in Egypt. His plan was to travel to Canada to work on the Canadian Pacific Railway. Lesley Robinson first took a job onboard as a fireman and would shovel coal into the engine’s furnace. The work was dangerous, the hours were long, but it was a far cry from ferrying weapons onto the beaches during Operation Overlord, he assured me. This love of all things ‘mech’ has bled into my family across four generations. My family has been Planes, Trains and

Automobiles crazy since I could crawl. Summers were spent at Fairford or Wroughton air base, going to car shows, or walking out to the nearest bridge to see a steam engine engulf onlookers in a plume of smoke. Yes, if it’s aspirated naturally or otherwise and can be driven, my family will inevitably set it down and worship it. It all stems from my greatgreat Grandfather, who worked as a Driver and Assistant Foreman on the Bengal Nagpur Railway from the 1920s for over 30 years. Suffice it to say, it’s in the blood.

Having packed down significantly more luggage than intended and with a departure time of 0851 hrs, I hastily loaded our electric taxi and made for Zermatt’s train station. In addition to 1st and 2nd class, in 2019 the Glacier Express introduced Excellence class on trains 902 & 903/923. For the uninitiated, this particular carriage allows everyone a window seat in the special deluxe panoramic

car. Not to mention a cocktail bar. You’ll find the carriage by spotting the red carpet at the end of the platform nearest the locomotive, that is, if you’re taking the eastbound route. You can expect to be warmly greeted by the train’s concierge on the platform, and provided you haven’t packed your entire snowsports wardrobe into suitcases, they’ll be happy to whisk all your luggage onto the train for you.

Now, Laurent Perrier at 0850 hrs might sound like an early start for some, but you’ve got no responsibilities for at least eight hours. As such, ‘when in Valais, Uri and Graubünden…’ you get the picture. Indeed, it’s a worthy time to toast your departure as you leave the valley at the foot of the stunning 4477m Matterhorn, and locomote your merry way along the Mattervispa River. As you pass through the Mattertal valley from Zermatt at 1804 m above sea level, headed for Visp at a mere 650 metres, the train engages a cogwheel and toothed rack placed between the rails to maintain its grip. With an array of silverware in front of you glinting in the sun, you’re not likely to notice the subtleties of this engineering marvel at work.

As part of the Excellence Class fare, the onboard chef prepares a seven-course regional menu complete with wine pairing, aperitif and anything else you might care to try from the bar. I highly recommend skipping breakfast at your hotel in its entirety. You will not need it.

Smoked Trout with oven-roasted beetroot, paired with Heida Blanc de Noir, Chasselas is first up best dressed. This is followed by a pea and mint soup with Alpine blossoms as we take the Furka Tunnel toward Andermatt. Prior to the opening of the 15.4 km-long Furka base tunnel in the early 1980s, locomotives had to climb over the top of the pass, which was almost impossible to keep open during the winter season. The last time I had been in the region, I had been filming the train as it travelled into Andermatt and out to the Oberalp Pass. We had stationed our camera crew to the east of the town to capture the Glacier Express as it traversed its highest point, even going so far as to film it in several snow drifts.

The main course of Swiss fillet of beef, truffle and mountain herb jus arrives as we cross the highest point of the line at 2033m above sea level. Given the incredibly dramatic scenery, this could well be the best view from any restaurant in Switzerland. Provided you have good weather on your side, you should have clear views of gorges, numerous summits and UNESCO World Heritage sites “Swiss Alps Jungfrau-Aletsch” and “Rhaetian Railway in the Albula/ Bernina Landscapes”.

I sit back with a glass of Assemblage Rouge 2015 and plug into the train’s infotainment system, which provides an audio commentary throughout the journey, pointing out key historic sites via individual

The vistas are nothing short of life-affirming as we made our way through Sedrun and into Disentis. If you’re not already entirely awestruck, you might consider checking your serotonin levels at this stage.

tablets. The vistas are nothing short of life-affirming as we made our way through Sedrun and into Disentis. If you’re not already entirely awestruck, you might consider checking your serotonin levels at this stage.

I only realise how close we are to Flims when I start scanning through my photo library geographically. The dots start to connect, and I begin to recognise quite how much of Switzerland I can pin together by ski resorts alone. Shortly after Disentis, we reach the Rhine Gorge, Switzerland’s Grand Canyon. With its wild gorges and rugged cliffs, the Anterior Rhine Valley between Reichenau and Illanz is one of the most arresting natural landscapes of the Grisons. Over 10000 years ago, around 100000 million cubic metres of bedrock surged forward and plunged into the river. The Anterior Rhine was buried under several metres of rock debris, forming a 25-kilometre-long lake. Naturally, the river cut its way through the barrier and the Illanz Lake drained, leaving the gorge in its place. That same landslide at Flims also gave birth to three crystal blue mountain lakes, the Cresta Lake at Trin Mulin, the Laax Lake and the Cauma Lake at Flims.

tea. By this point, I couldn’t tell you where exactly we were. I had firmly affixed a classic playlist into my ears, and I was simply along for the majestic ride. After a steady climb on the final leg, the train reaches St Moritz at 1775 metres above sea level. It’s worth noting that you can of course take the Glacier Express from St Moritz to Zermatt or anywhere in between, should you feel a shorter jaunt is more appropriate.

There is a clear reason why Excellence Class is known for providing the most sought-after seats in Switzerland. Whether you’re a seasoned train enthusiast or not, there is no better way to experience the majesty of Switzerland than on the Glacier Express. Not to mention, it’s the only way. My advice? Book out the entire carriage and make it a day for good friends and family to experience one of the greatest railway journeys the world has ever known.

By this point, a cheese plate comprising - amongst others - Graubünden mountain, sliced Aletsch and organic Langwieser ewe’s milk cheese, has been and gone. You’ll rarely be left with an empty table at The Glacier Express.

The final leg from Chur to St Moritz follows the Albula Valley. Just before you reach Filisur, you’ll cross the spectacular Landwasser Viaduct, a 213-foot-high wonder of arched stone. The route runs along a cliff edge on one mountain, crosses the viaduct and heads straight into a tunnel through another mountain. You’ll take in the famously scenic Engadin valley as small towns and picturesque castles reveal themselves whilst the train snakes over, under and through the landscape. A word to the wise: bring a camera, but be well prepared to step out to the gangway to get a shot without the glass refracting. As the carriage only seats 20 passengers, you can be confident of an unobstructed view.

I believe the sixth course of chocolate cake with vanilla sauce and roasted almonds melded into the selection of small pastries and Graubünden herb

“

Just before you reach Filisur, you’ll cross the spectacular Landwasser Viaduct.”

It’s been six long endless hairpins, regarded Valais kind of companions abandonment. colleagues, alpine architecture, local in

the age of

VERBIER V

long years since I drove up the Route de Verbier, tyres squealing around hairpins, bound for the mountains. Of the times I’ve visited this widely Valais town, I’ve always been in the company of great characters; the companions that will approach travel with a certain amount of reckless abandonment. Over the years that I’ve made it to the Mont Fort with friends and colleagues, grand memories have always been forged. Epic skiing, exquisite architecture, fine dining establishments for miles and simply beautiful local people. The goal this season: to be on-piste, ideally with a drink our hands, the same day we arrive. So on a bleary-eyed Monday morning, off we set for the mountains.

Words: Peter J Robinson Photography: Barney Oates

TAKE A TOUR BY DOGSLED FROM LES RUINETTES TO LA CHAUX WITH TAKITREK

After a wrong turn by my taxi driver and a “shortcut” that was the A3044, I finally arrived at Terminal 2 and into the warm embrace of Swiss Air’s cabin crew. If you weren’t aware, skis travel free with Swiss Air. Their crowning glory by far is that they are fervently the Skier’s airline. Boots, Poles, Skis or Board and Helmet travel gratuit.

By 10:15, we had boarded the double-decker SBB train to Martigny via Lausanne. Armed with an assortment of Franco-Swiss provisions, we set ourselves up in first class with views out to the mountains above. Travelling by train is perhaps the most civilised form of transportation. We’ve had well over 200 years to perfect the steam engine, the carriage comfort level, and both ride quality and service. As we pulled into Le Châble, we were greeted on the platform by Graham from Tesla Transfers. They’re a smart outfit that will power you up the mountain to your resort, or indeed from your arrival lounge in the lowest-carbon-footprint form of comfort. If you’re feeling active and fancy the hike, it will take you about two hours and twenty minutes to cover the 8.3k up 773 metres. Certainly not with a Rimowa suitcase in tow I should imagine.

The roads through Verbier are narrow and winding. Many more people are now visiting Verbier and have purchased property. It had been six years, after all, but it seemed to have developed both in the number of boutiques and properties emanating from the south near the Medran lift station. Verbier always strikes me as a very respectable mountain enclave to consider as a second home, should one have to, I don’t know, spend two years locked in your home. Oh, to have been hiding in the mountains during a lockdown on a powder day.

Despite knowing the south of the town rather well, we were headed to a chalet I had dined at once before with friends, a ten-minute walk up the Route des Creux. My last visit was on a cold January in 2016, and after a rather sumptuous Sunday lunch, my friend Peter promptly passed out in a wingback by the fire. The staff rapidly covered him in a blanket and I was left to enjoy my glass of chablis in peace, looking out to the mountains beyond. Le Chalet d’Adrien had remained on my alpine hit-list ever since.

The first thing that strikes you at Chalet d’Adrien is the sizeable terrace. We arrived around lunchtime, so there were many patrons from the mountain and town in attendance, all perched at 2,600 metres, and all dining with head chef Sebastiano Lombardi, who led La Table d’Adrien to a Michelin star in 2021. The enviable south-facing views over Verbier and the mountain ranges beyond are incomparable.

The property has 30 rooms and suites, each named

after mountain flora and fauna, a tribute to the herbarium of Adrian. As you might expect from an established chalet, it’s a very traditional affair with open fires, a humidor, and carefully matched fabrics alongside antique furniture. Having checked in and stowed our gear, save for a quick outfit change, we were out again within 15 minutes.

Next door to Chalet d’Adrien, you’ll find the Savoleyres ski lift operating old school style gondolas. Adjacent to that is Evasion Sports, a friendly ski and touring hire outfit stocking everything from MoonBoots to Zai skis. Despite having skied for years, my ski boot game is still lacking. My old Rossignols have seen better days and are in desperate need of a new moulded liner. The look on people’s faces when I hire ski boots, whilst carrying Zai skis, is a constant reminder that I am in need of a substantial switch up in the boot department. The Evasion range of skis and boots

across the valley below, all was right with the world.

Having secured dinner reservations for 8pm at La Channe By Marco Bassi, we returned to our rooms to change for supper. An array of petit fours had of course been laid out by housekeeping, so I brewed myself a decent coffee and sat down at the ornate antique desk. As I sat and pondered the emerging inbox, the aroma of the Nuxe Rêve de Miel range permeated every corner of the room. A honeyed scent so delicious that I actually made the effort to take some home.

A short ten-minute walk from the chalet, you’ll pass the imposing Église de Verbier Station, a church built between 1959 and 1961 and designed by Jean Ellenberger. Its impressive white bell tower strikes out, high above the town for all to see.

was strong, so we were outfitted in no time, thanks to the helpful team. We briefly pondered buying new gloves, having both forgotten our own, though with several pairs at home in the attic, we agreed that our coincidentally-matching sheepskin gloves in black and tan would do just fine.

It had taken us thirty minutes to check in, collect lift passes, change and make our way to the lift. With a few glorious runs under our belts from the top of Savoleyres and down to Bar d’Etablons, there was just enough time to squeeze in a drink before the lifts closed. Whilst Verbier is part of the 4 Vallés ski area and offers over 410km of runs, this was the first time I had skied from Savoleyres. Its relatively unspoilt runs and quiet slopes were a perfect opener to what was set to be an adrenaline-fuelled week.

As the sun set over the mountains and the temperature started to drop, the once revelling parties on the terrace at Chalet d’Adrien had moved inside by the fire. Despite the cold, Barney, our photographer, and I agreed that at least one toast should be made on the terrace after such a dash to the slopes. With a glass of Pommery Blanc de Blanc in hand and the lights starting to come on

As we had covered almost 1,000km by plane, train and automobile in less than 24 hours, to say we were in need of a hearty meal was an understatement. La Channe is a traditional yet contemporary setting, with many local fine wines on display and an impressive open kitchen. Guests can also book the chef’s table with a direct view of Bassi and his team as they cook up a culinary masterpiece. Despite my lack of French-speaking over the last two years, Barney was relatively fluent and became my translator-in-chief when needed. I tactically palmed off the wine selection in favour of perusing the menu in more detail. Pointes d’asperges vertes en vinaigrette à la moutarde, œuf du Valais poché, coppa maison croquante et espuma de sauce hollandaise au citron. Or Le pavé de cabillaud mijoté et gratiné au parmesan, pappa al pomodoro comme en Toscane, puntarelle al peperoncino and olio rosso. With a ‘menu of the moment’, you’ll find La Channe heavily inspired by Bassi’s home turf of Friuli in Italy. It becomes eminently clear rather quickly why Bassi’s was awarded a Michelin star in 2009.

Despite the concern that I was ordering something atypical, I bounded right towards the arancino. If you want to step into the great arancino-arancina debate, know that many passionate cooks, linguists and gourmands have argued over it for centuries. It’s a great classic of traditional gastronomy – and who am I to argue. I cannot really do the level of pleasure I took from cutting into its crispy exterior justice. It arrived at the table, a miniature sculpture crowned with a coral tuile garnish in a sea of rich Mediterranean tomatoes. It was simply spectacular. As was le bœuf suisse rassis sur l’os 6 semaines grillé, gâteaux d’aubergines alla parmigiana, crème de roquette et amandes.

As I sipped Barney’s fine choice of red and took my second-to-last bite, I could see chef Marco out of the corner of my eye. I turned, smiled and made the most Italian hand gesture I could muster to convey the enormity of my enjoyment. He smiled and, of course, gesticulated to say ‘prego’.

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It becomes eminently clear rather quickly why Bassi’s was awarded a Michelin star in 2009.”

La Channe is undeniably worth visiting when you land in town. The service was an incredible ballet of rustic charm and attentiveness without feeling even the slightest bit obsequious. Perhaps the most rarefied of skills when it comes to hospitality.

The next morning, having taken my glut of gault millau, I smugly ate my fruit and yoghurt, convinced I was now an athlete by proxy. I passed by the rows of fresh pastries at breakfast, stopping only to take a glass of fresh orange juice. What a wasted opportunity, I thought. Though in hindsight, the day had far too much adrenalin for the kind of smorgasbord Barney stacked for himself that morning.

We kicked off the day with a relatively relaxed sightseeing tour by dogsled from Les Ruinettes to La Chaux. TakiTrek dog sledding operates a variety of tours in summer and winter with a full pack. The journey took us through the Verbier 3-D Sculpture Park where every two years a group of international artists are invited to visit and install their work. Ultimately, the Verbier 3D Foundation creates a space for art and ecology to meet on the mountain. You can also stroll the gentle 3km walk, but I assure you, it’s that much more impressive by dogsled.

Once into La Chaux, we took the opportunity to turn the dogs around, give them a well-earned rest and, yes, make a considerable ‘fuss’. For a dog lover, a pack of nine was almost too much to take. The journey takes about 40 minutes, depending how quickly you can prise yourself away from the dogs at the stop off. Though if you’re visiting as a group or on a corporate shindig, they’ll be all too happy to arrange a bespoke tour.

We spent the next few hours in bluebird conditions taking vast sweeping reds down from Attelas. The strength and force transmission of the Zai Stone skis I was riding was starting to become ever more apparent as the piste got steeper and I leaned into the mountain. That’s right: stone skis. Zai have been making skis out of stone since 2007, but this is the only ski in the world with a stone top chord. So chameleon-like are they, that I almost lost them outside the granite covered chalet in Zermatt a few months ago. If you haven’t been recommended to seek out the brand by someone already in the know, you might have seen their collaborations with Bentley, Zegna and, dare I utter, Yves Saint Laurent.

With a lunch reservation pending, my most immediate concern was where should one leave these highly prized skis. Strolling across the terrace of Le Mouton Noir with them over my shoulder wasn’t going to work. So I decided to cut the cord and place them inside – yes, inside – the stairwell.

The top deck at the restaurant was pretty scarcely populated at noon, though that did mean taking our pick of the tables. The terrace at Le Mouton

Noir is a giant suntrap, with a strong stock of champagne available. Factor 15. For the Swiss Alps, its magnums were also pretty reasonable. Despite a good looking entrecôte and a turbot with langoustine ravioli, I returned to my baser instincts and joined Barney in ordering the Mounton Noir burger. I’m sure I’ve encountered Vacherin Fribourgeois sauce before, possibly with fondue, but not Mont d’Or on a burger. I think I was so concerned with ordering like a luddite that I entirely missed the cheese bath element on the menu. It was the sort of meal you needed to eat under a cloak. Was it pretty? No, certainly not, but I ploughed in with joie de vivre. I still wasn’t ready to embrace anything gourmet after the previous night’s fine dining. A great burger is certainly a reason to return to an eatery and La Mouton Noir’s is top shelf. Having gesticulated to my polite limit,

Barney casually ordered me another glass of rosé and a beer for himself. Had I managed to catch the waitress’s eyeline a little more often, I could by that point have been a magnum deep. We’ll never know.

Though we wouldn’t be spending the afternoon imbibing, a valued mountain pass time nonetheless. We met up with Cynthia, our guide from European Snowsport, to start covering some miles. Not before a quick pit-stop at the Black Tap at Col des Gentianes. I expect that most of you heading out by chopper will have guides in tow. Don’t forget how crucial it is to get the lay of the land. Spending a few days with a guide ironing out any kinks in form and really getting to grips with the lift setup is invaluable. Cynthia was a mountain maven and put us through our paces across the four valleys for most of the afternoon. Our pit-stops involved obligatory

photo opportunities, as well as picking myself up after pushing my dexterity too far.

We finished off the afternoon with drinks at Le Rouge, which I suspect is Cynthia’s usual haunt. The service was rapid, the drinks were on the money, and the crowd were buying what the DJ was selling. All the key ingredients were there, but I was sadly pulled away to a conference call about a shoot. A call that continued through the après, into the hotel transfer and back to the terrace of Chalet d’Adrien. Was it worth taking it? We shall see.

The short break in wining and dining was only temporary, however, as supper that evening was at 67 Pall Mall, Verbier’s darling of the season. And for very good reason. Having opened in December 2021 with the encyclopaedic head sommelier Lucy

Meza Ortega at the helm, 67 Pall Mall really is a well-curated success. I unashamedly enquired into membership shortly after arriving. The founding club in London opened in 2015 and is a city staple. CEO Grant Ashton was exfilling from City life, having spent 30 years running trade floors and working as a partner at a hedge fund. Having realised his wine collection was starting to get rather out of hand, he needed a place to house his inventory. The rest is an interesting history I welcome you to seek out in Verbier, Singapore and, soon enough, Beaune.

microbrewery in its sultry wood-panelled walls. Small enough to hold a decent crowd, but intimate enough to be able to actually hear each other. Up the exposed staircase and past the weighty alpine tomes bookended with wine bottles, emerges a sizeable marble bar and Lucy Meza Ortega. Having sat at the bar to peruse the 3000 wines on offer via iPad, we started with a rosé from Jean-René Germanier. It worked as a suitable palate cleanser after an afternoon of mild indulgence.

In addition to their 500-strong list of mature vintages by the glass (available thanks to Coravin, of course), the dining menu devised by chef Jérome

The ground floor houses a bar à vin and CLOCKWISE FROM BELOW: CYNTHIA COURARD FROM THE EUROPEAN SNOWSPORT SKI AND SNOWBOARD SCHOOL; HEADED INTO THE CLOUDS WITH FLYVERBIER; A SET OF ZAI SKIS WAITING OUTSIDE CABANE MONT FORT AT 2457M; SUNRISE YOGA WITH SVETLANA FROM VERBIER’S INSPIRE HEALTH AND FITNESS STUDIO; PHOTOGRAPHER BARNEY OATES BECKONING THE RAPTURE; TAKE A TOUR BY DOGSLED FROM LES RUINETTES TO LA CHAUX WITH TAKITREK

Henry is worth the trip alone. Whilst the interior was incredibly tasteful with warm subtle lighting and wing back chairs aplenty, we opted to move to the terrace to watch the sunset.

Next up, best dressed was a 2019 Mondò Sementina Bondola del Nonu Mario Rosato di Bondola and a 2018 Teroldego Rotaliano from Fedrizzi Cipriano, accompanied by a black pudding scotch egg with piccalilli. Was it fantastic? Of course. So were the olives and guindillas peppers, the beef tartare and the feuilleté à la saucisse de porc, moutarde. The very zenith of hearty comfort food. Lucy kept us enthralled all evening and, had we not needed to get some form of rest before our final day, I imagine we would still be there. I suggest that if you haven’t visited any of 67 Pall Mall’s redoubtable clubs, you do so. Or perhaps watch a little 67TV from the club’s studio in St James.

That’s a different story though; one for another issue.

We spent the last few hours of the evening at Le Chalet d’Adrien, cocktail in hand by the fire, under a portrait of Baron Adrien de Turckheim. The Baron had been a designer for Dietrich Bollée cars with his partners Mathis and Bugatti. He had visited Verbier in 1903 on a regular car rally and was rather taken by its splendour. In 2001 Brigitte de Turckheim-Cachart, the Baron’s granddaughter, founded the hotel, with her partner, in his memory. All rather fitting.

Our final days on the slopes were set to be the most intense. The morning lift up to Les Gentianes was peaceful whilst the final lift up to the top of the Mont-Fort, in full zipline harness, was testing. The glut of wine from 67 Pall Mall was behaving,

but perhaps it was time for a morning libation to take the edge off. That came in the form of a 1.4 kilometre descent at 100km an hour above the Tortin glacier. Every morning should start with a zipline across the mountains; the sheer concoction of adrenaline and dopamine is enough to shake any addled brain loose.

Of course, no day on the slopes is complete without finding somewhere idyllic for lunch. This time we were bound for Le Carrefour, an alpine institution at 1750m that claims to be the oldest dining establishment in the resort. The restaurant serves locally sourced mountain cheeses, homemade rostis and an array of fabulous cuts of meat, hunted locally in season. We arrived in earnest before the tables started to fill. I sometimes forget I’m wearing a mirrored ski helmet, so it’s helpful when the restaurant staff sing Daft Punk to remind me.

I am very used to it, and it serves as an indication that I’m on the right terrace. Rosti ‘Greblet’ was an instant winner, deer medallions with a homemade Café de Paris sauce.

Cynthia was now assimilating to our speed and culinary appetite. So, she decided that, after lunch, we would need to ski down to Siviez above Nendaz and back to really work up an appetite for après and supper. Heading home we managed to sup down a quick beer in bar 1936 where the Freeride

and local crews were in full effect. With another conference call at my ornate desk in the diary, après ski festivities were short-lived, but it was probably worth saving ourselves for supper.

Usually served in a separate dining area, La Table d’Adrien is the Chalet’s gastronomic restaurant run by Chef Sebastiano Lombardi. Their culinary focus is a 4 to 8-plate tasting menu, expertly curated alongside an accompanying wine flight. Originally from Puglia and having won the restaurant a

Michelin star in 2021, it was safe to say that Barney and I were settling in for a strong night.

We began with an amuse bouche of individually plated satay, truffle and crayfish canapés. One delicately placed on soft white stones, one atop an ornate upended red vase, and one in a neat wooden box laid atop a sea of kernels. Everything had to have been arranged using surgical tweezers. The level of precision to cut eleven tiny sprigs of rocket to serve as a bed for the perfect penny-sized truffle

67 PALL MALL VERBIER

rondel left me rather enamoured.

Next up, best dressed alongside a glass of the 2019 Simon Maye & Fils Pinot Noir was a chou-fleur, amande et sauce persil arrangement. Cauliflower is one of those wonderfully earthy and delicate vegetables gaining ground in the modern cuisine stakes, and I for one am pushing a cart of them up the hill. Delicate, but with enough mouth texture to make it a ‘playful little dish’.

As a mild din began to emanate from the bar, I realised that we would soon be joined by a group of, say, 30 banking bros. It happens, having money ‘parked’ in the Swiss franc, not to mention the low transaction fees, taxes and borrowing costs makes it an astute property investment.

Before we could debate the group’s origins further, our waiter, Tissiano, appeared with two black ceramic, sea urchin-shaped bowls. I suspect they were both crafted by Arianna Leoni, a young ceramist from Sardinia. Their contents, natural sea urchin comprised of mushroom cream and coffee emulsion. What initially struck me, aside from the beautiful tableware, was the ornately-carved mushroom sitting atop like shimmering carved mother of pearl. Even without the ricci di mare, its umami-salty-sweetness still burst through. A triumph.

Dinner was turning out to be a deep exploration of the culinary mind of chef Sebastiano Lombardi. This was cemented as the next dish made its way to the table. Saint Jacques dans tous ses états, carpaccio, carotte et kalamansi, tartare, kimchi et tapioca. Once again plated with the precision of a cardiothoracic surgeon.

This was shortly followed by fillet of red mullet with fennel chorizo and taggiasche olives, then fresh ravioli with snails, morel, tarragon, bagnetto verde. To say it was a tour de force is entirely justified. Plate after plate of perfectly-curated culinary conquest continued to arrive well into the night. Chef Lombardi and his team are an absolute mustvisit at Chalet d’Adrien on your travels.

“Well, I am done, sir,” Barney said whilst clearly throwing in the towel. “Meet you at 0800 hours for yoga on the terrace?” Sure, I replied. With a hasty accord in place, I headed into the bar to find a Partagas Serie D No. 6 to smoke on the balcony with a brandy. A little indulgence never killed anyone.

As I awoke to open the curtains and welcome in the morning mountain air, I found myself somewhat doubled over. A week of proverbial candle burning might have started to take a physical toll. Thankfully we would spend an early morning with Svetlana from Verbier’s Inspire health and fitness studio. It’s been years since I took an actual instructor-led yoga class. I practise at home, but in

the last few years, more as a crutch for when I can feel a physical or mental freight train headed in my direction. Usually self-inflicted. ‘Coffee?’ I asked Svetlana as we all realised more clothes might be in order for an 8am start. “I don’t drink coffee,” she replied with a smile. Then green tea, perhaps? “Sure, perfect”.

At this point, Barney was resolute to take pictures rather than practise, but with a little coercion from Svetlana, he fell into line. “I was told by the last instructor I visited that I was the least flexible person they had ever met,” said Barney from the mat. With careful instruction and a sympathetic approach, Barney was pushing for vrikshasana, even with his bad hips from ‘footie’. After an hour of practice with an Alpine backdrop and restful shavasana, I felt at peace. All the synapsis were

firing and my muscles were warmed and ready for the final furlong.

A hatha yoga practice session with meditation from Svetlana is something that I think we could all benefit from. Our travels are ultimately supposed to enrich us mentally and emotionally, and hopefully you’ll find the time to take a moment of respite amongst the hedonism in Verbier.

One last item remained on our list for the week: paragliding from the Croix des Ruinettes. I was adamant there was time for a few last runs. Barney, however, was not so convinced. You’ll find the Flyverbier office at the Rue de Médran with the actual take-off point just below Les Ruinettes. From here, paragliders take off all day with the thermals carrying them down to Le Châble. Armed

THE VIEW FROM CHALET ADRIEN

LA TABLE D’ADRIEN

with Canon lenses, we soared into the sky. “Have you done this much before?” my instructor asked as we banked northwest. “A few times, yes, but my god it never gets old does it?” I replied as my endorphin levels spiked. As my instructor began to prep his GoPro, Barney sailed in from the south to fly tandem. This lasted long enough for a brief conversation and some pictures before the guides decided it was perhaps trop près. “Do you want to take the lines, Peter?” “For, sure”. I honestly didn’t imagine I would be spending my last few hours in

Verbier ‘piloting’ down the mountain and into Le Châble. Was it enough to pique my interest and book into a solo course? I’m afraid it was. God help me.

With the stark reality that we had yet to pack our ski gear, we returned on the lift to Les Ruinettes to collect our kit and ski the run down to the pickup point. There was just enough time to wrestle my Rimowa into a closed position and take lunch on the sun-drenched terrace at Chalet d’Adrien for

the last time. Burrata, artichokes, pesto and twenty four-month-old parma ham.

As Barney stood to check our transfer, I was left momentarily alone on the terrace, surrounded by locals and guests revelling in the midday sun. I was starting to think about what a season in the mountains for a producer and managing editor might look like. Morning coffee with these views, yoga with Svetlana, a refreshing morning dip, perhaps even a quick paraglide down the mountain.

FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT VERBIER TOURISM VISIT WWW.VERBIER.CH

FLIGHTS

RETURN FLIGHTS FROM LONDON HEATHROW TO GENEVA COST FROM £82 WITH SWISS

TRANSFERS

TRAIN FROM GENEVA AIRPORT TO LE CHÂBLE VIA MARTIGNY COSTS FROM £46/57CHF FOR A RETURN SECOND CLASS TICKET

ACCOMMODATION

THREE-NIGHT STAY AT CHALET D’ADRIEN IS PRICED FROM £438/540CHFPP WITH BREAKFAST, BASED ON TWO SHARING

PARAGLIDING, FROM £130/160CHF FOR A TANDEM PARAGLIDING FLIGHT

PANORAMIC DOG SLEDDING TOUR, FROM £130/160CHF FOR A 5KM TRIP

SKI HIRE WITH 3VASION: FROM £55/67CHF PER DAY FOR BOOTS, SKIS AND HELMET

LIFT PASSES: START FROM £61/74CHFPP PER DAY FOR THE FOUR VALLEYS AREA

SKI INSTRUCTOR: ALL DAY PRIVATE SKI INSTRUCTOR FROM £445/550CHF

SUNRISE YOGA: FROM £72/89CHFPP, INCLUDES CONTINENTAL BREAKFAST AND USE OF LIFTS

LA CHANNE

CHEF MARCO BASSI

The The

The Sirreti List

First Sirreti List Awards for Private Luxury Accommodation Par Excellence

Words: John Sterling

Sirreti List Gold Award

“Amongst the worlds best”.

Ever exploring the echelons of taste and sophistication, the inaugural independent Sirreti List Awards results have now been revealed. These awards - based upon in-depth inspections covering the utmost in opulent hospitality across the globe - celebrate properties which attain new heights of luxury, offer truly remarkable opportunities for escapism, and champion architectural finesse amid some of the world’s most enviable locations.

Spread across the Top Property, Market Leader

and Amongst The World’s Best categories, the first winners of The Sirreti List Awards represent the driving ambition that forms the heart of the private luxury accommodation and hospitality sectors. Representing bold new visions and timeless elegance alike, each and every one of these properties defines excellence in a sector where perfection is the only acceptable standard.

The Sirreti List: Think the Michelin Guide for ‘Nothing Less than the Best’ in the top luxury and ultra luxury categories. The Sirreti List

rates and awards the crème de la crème of private luxury accommodation.

The board of inspectors, jury and advisory members are made up of veterans of the sector who are driven by a pure passion to continue working, developing and carving out a path for the future of unbiased ultra luxury hospitality.

Operated as a non-profit enterprise, Sirreti does not accept travel expenses, fees or any other kind of payment from nominated or awarded properties.

Chalet Zermatt Peak - Switzerland

Perched above the enchanting village of Zermatt and with breathtaking views of the Matterhorn, Chalet Zermatt Peak is a bastion of architectural magnificence and luxurious design.

The privately-run chalet is laid out over six opulent floors and boasts five individually designed suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, affording guests the most awe-inspiring views Zermatt has to offer.

No small feat, Chalet Zermatt Peak is the current holder of the World’s Best Ski Chalet title at the World Ski Awards. The addition of a Siretti Golf Award is further acknowledgement that this chalet is in a league of its own.

International business development manager

Matthew Klaiber stated “We are delighted to be recognised as ‘Amongst the World’s Best’ by The Sirreti List. Our team acknowledges there are many exceptional properties around the world, so to be part of the inaugural list is a great honour.”

The contemporary interiors of Chalet Zermatt Peak are enhanced by a carefully curated art collection. The large underground wine cellar contains one of the area’s finest private wine collections, and the open-plan living area features floor-to-ceiling windows and a glass roof with unobstructed views of the village and the Matterhorn.

The Wellness Centre offers complete relaxation to restore guests’ inner balance and peace of mind, and provides access to a dry Finnish or a wet Swedish sauna, a bio steam in the hammam or time well spent in the bubbles and jets of the large indoor and outdoor whirlpool baths.

The gym area boasts state of the art TechnoGym equipment, and a full treatment spa and in-house wellness therapist is on hand. Each guest receives a personalised activity and wellness program, plus complimentary daily massages.

AT A GLANCE

• FIVE SUITES WITH FLOOR-TO-CEILING WINDOWS

• UNINTERRUPTED VIEWS OF ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN

• IN-HOUSE GOURMET CHEF

• WELLNESS CENTRE

Sirreti List Gold Award

“Amongst the worlds best”.

The Beach House - Anguilla

The Beach House is an extraordinary home set in exquisite landscaped gardens on the hidden Caribbean island of Anguilla.

Not only is the home one of the most exceptional we have visited, its position is matchless, boasting a prime beachfront location on one of the best beaches in the world: Meads Bay. Soft white sands gently shelve down to the crystal turquoise waters of the Caribbean Sea, promising no shortage of blissful escapism for those indulging in its various charms.

Favoured by celebrities and business magnates, a stay at The Beach House is an incomparable experience and has been awarded the coveted Sirreti List Gold award, acknowledging its place amongst the world’s best private luxury accommodations.

The contemporary design of this eight bedroom villa is architecturally stunning. Created with the highest level of detail and sophistication and with an amenity list which is bound to impress even the most discerning UHNW guest. Indeed, the property includes a 44-ft Infinity Edge Pool, 18-seat cinema and bar, tennis court, gymnasium, basketball nets, and beach volleyball court.

Coupled with these amenities, The Beach House also comes with full on-site staff of butler, concierge, and housekeeper. A babysitting service and spa treatments can be booked on-demand.

AT A GLANCE

• WORLD-CLASS BEACHFRONT LOCATION

• 44-FT INFINITY EDGE POOL

• 18-SEAT CINEMA AND BAR

• TENNIS, GYM, BASKETBALL & VOLLEYBALL

• ON-SITE BUTLER, CONCIERGE & CHEF

Sirreti List Gold Award

Casa Tres Soles doesn’t just enjoy a prime beachfront location; it occupies a secluded and elevated position overlooking the Bahia (Bay) de Banderas within Punta de Mita’s most exclusive community.

The spectacular location and views, together with the exquisite design of the property, make Casa Tres Soles a one-of-a-kind experience. The private peninsula is a golden retreat and has proved a firm favourite with the world’s elite travellers. Legendary golfer, Jack Nicklaus claimed it to be nothing less than “Heaven on Earth”.

The nine bedroom, 18,000 square foot estate was built and artistically designed by Juan Collignon Hoff and Manolo Mestre, renowned as Mexico’s most notable architects. Their iconic design focuses on a fluid indoor outdoor living concept and the joyful interiors are a celebration of the eclectic nature of Mexico’s culture.

The wide open-plan luxurious living and dining space sits under the villa’s open-air palapa, and leads out to the exceptionally manicured landscaped gardens with open views to the majestic Pacific ocean. For those seeking the utmost in bliss away from the waves, a sublime circular swimming pool and terrace area allow guests to make the most of the outdoors.

Guests need not lift a finger during their stay at Casa Tres Soles. The full on-site staff includes a house manager, butler team, head and sous chef, kitchen team, mixologist, full-service concierge, and a housekeeping team.

AT A GLANCE

• WORLD-CLASS BEACHFRONT LOCATION

• PRIME HEADLAND POSITION WITH VIEWS TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN

• NINE BEDROOM SUITES

• EXQUISITE OPEN-AIR PALAPA LIVING SPACE

• FULL ON-SITE STAFF

• DIRECT BEACH ACCESS

• IN-HOUSE SPA FOR MORE INFORMATION

“Amongst the worlds best”.

Casa Tres Soles - Punta de Mita, Mexico

Sirreti List Silver Award “Top

When he first laid eyes on Lanikai on the windward coast of Oahu, internationally-renowned hair stylist Paul Mitchell knew he had arrived in paradise. Sparing no expense, he built the house of his dreams in the late 1980s.

However, it was Paul’s son Angus Mitchell who completed his father’s dream. He created the idyllic sanctuary that welcomes guests today, and which has now been awarded a Sirreti Silver Award in recognition of its beauty and ability to deliver an unforgettable stay.

The estate exudes a powerful sense of what is timeless, exquisite, and nurturing to body and soul. The design and architecture reflects the welcoming Polynesian lifestyle; a bonafide tribute to the culture’s ingenuity and vibrancy.

The landmark estate is set within one and half acres of prime beachfront location ensconced in lush and peaceful gardens. Set on a powder-white strand at the edge of a turquoise sea, and with the Mokulua Islands as a truly spectacular backdrop, it possesses an unspeakable beauty that never fails to make an impact.

The seven suites are split between the main house with its soaring 25-foot-high ceilings and five luxury cabana-style suites nestled within the grounds.

Amenities include a lagoon-style saltwater swimming pool, spa, a stone fire pit surrounded by lava benches overlooking the ocean, and a Japanese Bath House with sauna and meditation pond.

The Estate’s James Tanuka said: “On behalf of the Paul Mitchell Estate and the Angus Mitchell Family, we are truly honoured to be recognised as a Sirreti luxury vacation property, and to be a member of this very special community. We will forever strive to be the best of the best.”

AT A GLANCE

• PRIME HEADLAND POSITION WITH VIEWS TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN

• NINE BEDROOM SUITES

• EXQUISITE OPEN-AIR PALAPA LIVING SPACE

• FULL ON-SITE STAFF

• DIRECT BEACH ACCESS

• IN-HOUSE SPA

Property”.

The Paul Mitchell Estate - Oahu, Hawaii.

Sirreti List Black Award

“Market Leader”.

Akasha - Whistler, Canada

Breathtaking Akasha is sheltered within a perfect powder white and evergreen landscape atop Sunridge Plateau: the most exclusive, ski-in/ski-out neighbourhood of the iconic Whistler resort.

Exceptionally designed and built by award winning Munster & Sons with absolutely no detail overlooked, the exquisite and gothic-inflected chalet commands views to the entire valley from its elevated position.

The name Akasha is taken from the Sanskrit word which means “primary substance” and throughout the accommodation, you find natural and locallysourced elements which reference the history and spirituality of the region.

The 6,345 sq.ft. of interior living space comprises 5.5 bedroom suites and features the ultimate in luxury amenities, including an indoor pool, indoor and outdoor spa area, a cinema room, wine cellar, beautiful open living/dining area and a gourmet kitchen.

Perhaps the pièce de résistance of Akasha is the magnificent 480 year old, 49 foot tall log from Gold River on Vancouver Island, which has been sculpted to form the centrepiece to the incredible spiral staircase that wraps around it.

AT A GLANCE

• SKI-IN/SKI-OUT ACCOMMODATION

• INDOOR POOL AND GYM

• INDOOR AND OUTDOOR SPA AREAS

• WINE CELLAR

• CINEMA ROOM

Sirreti List Black Award

Sirreti List Black Award

Villa Sirius - Marbella, Spain

The epitome of luxury and refinement, Sensational Villa Sirius is located in the prestigious location of Golf Valley in Marbella, with both Royal Las Brisas and Aloha Golf Club just a stone’s throw away.

The sleek cubic facade envelopes an interior that has been designed with luxurious good taste, featuring every modern amenity one could dream of for a truly idyllic stay. An impressive double height entrance sets the tone for the sleek lines and contemporary design flourishes that flow through the interior of this five bedroom villa.

The open-plan living and dining space extend seamlessly out to the immaculately manicured lawn and terraces, with the star of the show here being an immaculate swimming pool.

Villa Sirius provides an a-la-carte menu of five-star amenities, including a wine cellar, cinema and games room, relaxation room, and private sauna.

AT A GLANCE

• PRIME GOLF LOCATION

• CINEMA ROOM

• GAMES ROOM

• WINE CELLAR

• RELAXATION ROOM AND SAUNA

FOR MORE INFORMATION TAP HERE

“Market Leader”.

Alps Privé

Words: Peter J Robinson

As the winter ski season arrives in all its powder-laden glory, and legions of tourist boards around the world brace to see where the modern jet set will land, the Tschuggen Grand Hotel in Arosa wants you to know that their season kicks off with a rare privilege. A Private Mountain, no less.

It’s been a long eight months since I was last fervently flying down an Alp, red-cheeked, poles tucked and flying headfirst toward a boujee lunch. I usually carve out a blissful final long weekend in March amongst the melting snow, beneath pristine bluebird skies. Not this year, sadly.

You can imagine, therefore, my immediate intrigue at the idea of a fully-fledged Private Mountain. “Private Private?” I asked, with all the deft diplomacy of an errant debutant. “Yes, I believe it’s exclusively for the guests of the Tschuggen Grand Hotel in the canton of Graubünden”, our Travel Editor replied. “How are they managing that, exactly?”. The answer

prompted some intrigue: “I believe they’ve been organising it for over a decade”. At first, I couldn’t fathom how this particular event had managed to escape my alpine radar. Many resorts offer the opportunity for guests to get the ‘first track’ on the slopes, provided you can rise early enough. A Private Mountain is an altogether grander affair.

The short train ride from Zurich to Arosa is comparable on the clock to a road transfer, and it really is the best way to witness Switzerland in all her iconic grandeur. The Arosa line climbs 1000m in the space of 26 kilometres as it winds its way through tunnels on the mountain track. The little red locomotive rolls through the mountainous landscape of Schanfigg,

crossing the 203 ft high Langwieser Viaduct that traverses the Plessur river. It’s not a view you’ll want to miss, not least if you have a penchant for the spectacular. Honestly, I know of no more restorative way to travel than by train. In fact, I have always been tempted to do the LondonLausanne leg, given it takes as little as seven and a half hours on the rails. When you consider the airport travel time, passive-aggressive queueing, whittling down your favourite aftershave to 100ml and the now commonplace game of ‘Rimowa luggage roulette’, it’s a challenge not to long for the golden age of rail travel. For me, the cliché stands: it’s as much about the journey as it is about the destination.

The Tschuggen Grand Hotel’s history stretches

back to 1883 when Otto Herwig came to Arosa, convinced of the therapeutic effects of the village’s mountain air. A rebrand, a sizeable fire, a high-profile sale and numerous renovations have taken place over the last century and a half, heralding the addition of the 5,000sm Tschuggen Bergoase Spa, designed by star architect Mario Botta. Yet it’s the hotel’s very own mountain railway, the Tschuggen Express, that really stopped me in my tracks. Yes, ski inski out properties on-piste aren’t hard to come by, but a private single-track funicular railway is the stuff of legend. The mind boggles at the planning permission alone. Only the Swiss.

The Tschuggen Grand Hotel, in its current guise, is a traditional affair on the inside, with

interiors designed across its 98 rooms and 32 suites by Carlo Rampazzi from design firm Selvaggio. You’ve only to sit in one of the Malachite-Art club chairs with their “CrazyGlass” finishing and lacquered legs to get a feel for the creator’s opulent and maximalist design whims. I was particularly taken by the softly textured gold handles that adorned my room’s ‘peach’ wardrobe doors. The rooms are more than amply sized with tasteful wingback chairs, large beds, desk areas and plentiful storage, all styled with a sense of contemporary alpine chic. Not to mention that view.

The hotel certainly showcases its finesse when it comes to culinary exploits. ‘The Basement’ on the ground floor offers a take on fine fast food.

CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM LEFT: THE BERGOASE SPA; THE PRIVATE TSCHUGGEN EXPRESS; ROBINSON ON PISTE; A JUNIOR SUITE; THE GRAND SALON.

“ The short train ride from Zurich to Arosa is comparable on the clock to a road transfer, and it really is the best way to witness Switzerland in all her iconic grandeur.”

Nutrient-dense salads contrast with the more traditional brisket burgers and steaks available. It’s a particular grilled carrot tartare with orange and tarragon, however, that surprisingly stood out for me, which, given my propensity for the carnivorous, was somewhat unexpected. It’s all part of the hotel’s ‘Moving Mountains’ philosophy, designed to help restore vitality, connect with nature and celebrate joy. I can attest to feeling particularly joyous at the realisation that The Basement also features a traditional bowling alley at its centre. After several libations, all rules are flouted in favour of a simple ‘strike the most pins’ affair. I was doing rather well on seven until someone decided to take out the entire set of nine. Bravo.

If you’re looking for something likely to cause less of a bowling-based din, the Grand Restaurant - with its newly-redesigned interior by the aforementioned Carlo Rampazzi - offers an array of delights. I highly recommend choosing from the Moving Mountains Signature menu, especially if you’ve already frequented The Basement. Renowned nutritionist Rhaya Jordan has worked with the hotel chefs to create a balanced menu, free from processed flours and sugars, curated to offer an array of intrinsic health benefits. The delicate celery soup with sesame and pear can be combined with dishes from the traditional menu, including saddle of roe deer, ensuring all palates will be satisfied. If you’re adamant that your meal should come with silverware, Chef Marco Campanella has 17 GaultMillau points and two Michelin stars at La Brezza, ensuring fine dining flights of fancy are never beyond reach.

Suffice to say, the Tschuggen Grand Hotel’s bonafides are established on the gastronomy

front. I was still intrigued to see how they would maintain this savoir-faire at altitude. So, after breakfast the following morning, we collected our kit from the onsite ski shop and headed to the base station of the Gondelbahn Hörnliexpress. It’s a short seven-minute journey to the peak of Mount Hörnli, and when we arrive there’s a small but spirited flurry of snowfall to add to that which has settled overnight. The alpine party is already in full swing, and it’s clearly a family affair. The resident DJ is working his way into an all-day set with a glorious remix of Robert Miles’ Children pumping out across the slopes. I shazam as fast as I can get my gloves off. The team from the Carlton St Moritz, part of the wider Tschuggen Collection, are eagerly inviting guests to try their hand at swinging a polo mallet from a scandi-style hobby horse. I wonder how many chukkers it will take before the guests send all the balls down the mountain. Several fire pits are glowing, with furs liberally spread around for guests to sit on whilst they partake in a made-to-order grilled cheese. I thought I knew all the myriad ways the Swiss liked to enjoy gruyère and gouda. It turns out a toasted cheese sandwich cooked on an open fire in the Alps might well be my favourite. “Can we interest you in a bite to eat?” the team from the Valsana Hotel asked with bated breath. “I think we both know that you certainly can, guys,” I replied. “What would you like on it?”. “What would you recommend?”. “Everything”. “Sold”. Of course, I now find myself eagerly online shopping for a toasting iron, in full knowledge that I won’t be able to recreate the setting in the slightest. The Valsana Hotel is another string to the Tschuggen Collection bow, of course, with a 40-room hotel and nine tastefully appointed family apartments.

I decide it’s probably time to put my Zai Stone skis through their paces and clip in. I count fewer than 10 people on the actual slopes as the cloud cover starts to break and I drop into my first run. This is truly as private as private gets without choppering into a powder field in the actual middle of nowhere. As I reach the chair lift, eager for another run, a pop-up bar is serving rum punch and hot chocolate for the return journey. Inspired.

As the mountain is open only for the event, the pistes available are - of course - limited for safety. Despite this, those that were open still allowed me to clock in at 47 mph. The Arosa Lenzerheide resort has a very decent total of 225 km of slopes between 2865m and 1229m. It’s one of the largest ski areas in the Grisons region, with reliable snow cover and modern lifts to switch from one side of the valley to the other in little time. On this particular afternoon, though, the goliath Urdenbahn cable car had been repurposed into a sky spa, 2500m above sea level. Samuel and Stephanie, both therapists from the Tschuggen Bergoase Spa, were on hand to offer guests a welcome shoulder or foot massage. Having discussed my various aches, Samuel was all too pleased to break out the mallets for a Tok Sen massage. With the gondola halted in the middle of the valley, thousands of metres above the world below, I reached peak calm.

No day on the slopes is complete without a gourmet lunch stop. Ours came courtesy of chef Caterina Vosti from the Hotel Eden Roc in Ascona. As I said, It’s a family affair. Chef Caterina had taken over at the Hörnlihütte and was busy prepping vast dishes of mushroom risotto. I’m intrigued to see what she can do at sea level on the shores of Lago Maggiore.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: DANIEL MAHRER SWISS WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP SKIIER; SAMUEL FROM THE TSCHUGGEN GRAND HOTEL SPA, HIGH OVER THE VALLEY; THE 5000-SQUARE FOOT SPA, DESIGNED BY SWISS ARCHITECT MARIO BOTTA.

After lunch, I managed to briefly spend some time with former Bronze downhill medal winner and HEAD ski ambassador Daniel Mahrer. After exchanging anecdotes about the ‘72 Winter Games, Mahrer confirmed what I already knew: I was probably going too fast, or at least too fast to warrant sensible Olympic advice. With an array of Head skis available to test, I strongly advise you to find your pro early in the day and bleed them dry of all the advice you can. With so few people on the piste, style points are doubled.

As the mountain wouldn’t fully open to the public until the following day, I wondered where exactly one might secure a solid après-ski to top off the day. As expected, Swiss efficiency prevails. Having stowed our skis in the hotel’s smart boot room, we were whisked off en masse to an après ski Champagne party on the outdoor ice rink, complete with a live band, crêpes, enough Louis Roederer to sink an icebreaker and a particularly poignant solo figure skating performance that may

have resulted in a single solitary tear. It’s the Champagne talking.

In addition to a restorative drop (or ten) of Champagne, the first day of the season should always be followed by a salubrious soak. The majority of us are not athletes but mere weekend warriors, and if the Moving Mountains program teaches us anything, it’s to listen to our bodies to restore vitality. The hotel’s jewel is its gargantuan 5000-square foot spa, designed once again by Swiss architect Mario Botta. Built deep into the mountain, the spa is a starkly clear visual departure from the hotel’s architecture. Striking upright metal-and-glass ‘sails’ or ‘leaves’ shoot upwards from the mountainside. During the day, these skylights flood the space below with light, but by night they come alive with coloured hues that can be seen from across the local village. The spa houses a series of swimming pools that extend out into the open air, a floor dedicated to steam rooms and saunas, two private couples’ treatment rooms and an array of holistic massages and detox

body and skin rejuvenation treatments. I opted for the Signature massage, which begins with a foot soak in salt, thyme, rosemary and lavender. This is followed by a deep tissue massage which includes hot and cold stone therapy to relax tired muscles and joints. You’ll have no trouble gearing up for another day on the slopes with this wellness retreat in your corner.

Being entirely climate-neutral since 2019, the hotel received the Green Globe certification; a testament to the way the property and the group prioritise their efforts to maintain the mountain way of life. I can understand how guests would easily fall in love with the Tschuggen Grand Hotel. Many make it a firm fixture on the winter calendar, returning year after year for the Private Mountain event. It’s that feeling of informal luxury, familiar faces and world-class culinary expertise that keeps their clientele loyal. Given their Mountain Lofts are available to book from this December, you might well find me returning for another dose of Private Mountain peace very soon indeed.

ESCAPISM

Words: Naomi Lake

Escapism. Goodness knows we all need some after the last couple of years. Crossing the Masai Mara at sunrise by hot air balloon to watch the migration or boarding the Glacier Express across the alps is arguably bucket list-worthy. However, for me, the instant gratification of short-haul travel is equally satisfying, waking up to the mundane breakfast at home, yet taking lunch somewhere completely out of the ordinary. With French Alpine resorts open, this can only mean taking that midday intermission mountainside.

LES AIRELLES FROM LE JARDIN ALPIN

Just two short hours by road from Geneva airport is the world-renowned Les Trois Vallées, with its 600 kilometres of runs spread between the three main resorts of Courchevel, Meribel and Val Thorens. As you approach the Tarentaise Valley, the meandering river at the valley floor slices through a thick pine forest. Ever-twisting hairpin roads wind their way through the snowy treetops, leaving behind short glances of each village you pass. If time isn’t on your side, or simply to enjoy the evolving landscape from above, a transfer across the Alps from Geneva with the Alpine Airline is a must. The definition of a scenic route, our destination is at the highest point of the mountain’s residence, with unspoilt views across to Italy’s Mont Blanc peaks.

Courchevel 1850 gives you the finest in alpine style. Speckled across the mountainside are its famous resorts and opulent retreats, laced together by an enticing network of slopes. Where better to head for a mix of divine relaxation and hedonistic luxury we all crave. Our journey’s end, Le Palace des Les Airelles Courchevel, is no exception.

Its Austro-Hungarian style is eye-catching, with its colourful frescos, decorative balconies and stained glass windows, but melds seamlessly to the snowy setting. They call it the Palace, as if in a fairytale. It’s often said in editorial meetings that the rather cliched use of the word ‘magical’ is a sure-fire way to a redraft. In this case, I will make an exception. After more years away from the mountains than I care to specify, I have to call it as I see it.

On your arrival, staff in traditional Savoyard dress step forward to greet you. As you soak in your surroundings, it’s true ski lodge style, warm and welcoming, but with a subtle scale of grandeur that unfolds before you with every step. The magnificent roaring fire of the lounge lures you in with its soothing woodsmoke scent and homely crackle, I make a mental note to unwind before it with a Negroni at some point very soon. The staff ready my room and deliver my luggage, with the gladly met offer to unpack on my behalf. Ski room appointments, our personal ski instructor and tomorrow’s spa visit are arranged in but a moment. Service here is understated, yet countless; before you can think it, it’s done. After our morning of travel, much-needed refreshment is in order, and without a second thought, we are welcomed straight to our waiting table.

La Table Des Airelles is the most fitting introduction to the beautiful dining offered at the Palace. Their ever-changing lunchtime banquet is, quite simply, imperial. As I ponder over a reception of local cheeses and charcuterie, I make a mental note that I will be burning quite a few calories on the slopes, as I tuck into

a bakery’s-worth of homemade bread whilst readying myself for further culinary decisions.

A light lunch of oysters, langoustine and lobster? Take a salad to pair it, and a bottle of house white to savour beside it. This isn’t any house wine, of course, it’s the wine of the Airelles house, Château d’Estoublon. You’ll want to ensure you send some home ahead of your departure, to revisit its tangy yet floral notes and crisp finish which pairs with fish so exquisitely.

It goes without saying that in a spread this decadent, the dessert section is going to be more than captivating. Rich chocolate mousse, devilishly enticing cheesecakes, and glossy ganache-covered sponges. Cream chouxpastries and mille-feuille, traditional Tarte Normande and creme brulee. Even tremendous slabs of La Maison Fouquet chocolate to nibble with coffee. Unleash your inner child, let your eyes widen, and indulge.

After lunch, I was eager to get outside to explore. Swiftly heading to my room to wrap up a little warmer, I found a Les Airelles Fusalp jacket laid out waiting for me, the perfect addition to my wardrobe. Perfectly cut and wonderfully warm, just the ticket for a little stroll. The mountain road past the Palace follows the array of slopes that run to the centre of Courchevel, with some gentle walkable routes too. Catch the last of the suns’ warmth before it dips below the peaks, and wonder at the view of the valley from above.

I returned to my room, pink-of-cheek from my walk and the lunchtime wine, replete from the afternoon. The Edelweiss suite is where I rested my head each evening, a generous 70m² in which to spread out as you ready yourself for the day before you, or relax after the evening behind you. After my fleeting visit after lunch, this time, I was ready to marvel at it.

Stepping into the room, you encounter the traditional alpine lodge aesthetic, with the decadence of chateau living. Deep mahogany detailing, rich fabrics in gold, emerald greens and ruby reds, hand-painted detailing and marble bathrooms. A handsome lounge was laden with Veuve Clicquot waiting on ice, a sweet treat from the patisserie and local magazines to peruse. La Maison Fouquet chocolates accompany candied and savoury gourmet snacks handmade in Marseille, artisanal sodas and fresh fruit juices.

Beyond this, the eye is drawn to the glittering snow dusting the balcony. From there, an enchanting view of Le Jardin Alpin shows where you might ski out the next day, directly onto the slopes. It’s 5pm as I breathe a deep sigh of

bliss, arrived through my surroundings, and a sip of crisp champagne. The hum of the Guccisponsored gondola may have ceased for the evening, but the chilled air still carries a gentle buzz of excitement from the terrace below and the resort around us.

Readying for the skiing ahead means a trip to the boot room, where the Bernard Orcell ski valets tend to every related need. If, like me, you pack light, the valet will expertly fit and advise you on kit. A spot of shopping will more than likely take your fancy too, as the ski boutique offers plenty of temptation to add to your ensemble for the slopes, from the new

Fendi alpine capsule or La DoubleJ Ski Kit readyto-wear collections. Maybe something from the new range of Tom Ford shades (always a weakness of mine) or the Bogner La Plagne 2 snow boots.

With a busy day behind us, and everything prepared for the next, it was again time to dine. My day revolves around the excitement of three wonderful meals, with fabulous activities in between, after all. We were headed to one of the three restaurants of The Palace, Piero. We were more than well looked after by Marco Garfagnini, who graciously oversees this winter season. Treated to the chef’s selection, dish after dish arrived before us, a heady mix of raw and

marinated fish, coupled with rustic salads, followed by authentic pasta dishes. Each element of the menu takes inspiration from Marco’s Tuscan roots, with a fitting French twist and, of course, beautiful ingredients like the Albacore tuna with truffle and sesame.

Through each course, you are guided expertly through the sommelier’s striking wine list, including the aromatic Gewurztraminer, Cuvée Laurence, 2018, its subtly-spiced notes working in harmony with the fusion menu. To finish, be sure to try their lavish dessert, Au Mortier. Pistachio, caramelised hazelnuts, amaretti with mascarpone and amaretto, prepared before

you, and served with an illustrious iced Negroni gratin.

The next morning, I woke with the sunrise stretching through the satin drapes, bounding off the snowy balcony, gently waking me from my Egyptian cotton slumber. Revitalised, I was looking forward to a hearty breakfast and excited to get out to explore. The draw of Les Trois Vallées is no mystery when you consider its

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: A PRIVATE BALCONY; LA TABLE DES AIRELLES; LE COIN SAVOYARD

available runs. With 600km of slopes in the area and 339 interconnecting runs, it’s the world’s most comprehensive skiing experience. Within minutes you can be on the Les Marmottes lift and open the day at the top of La Saulire, the highest point in Courchevel. At an altitude of 2,740 metres, the full mountainscape unfolds at your feet, where better to feel the exhilaration of the wind whipping past you and fresh powder smooth as butter beneath you as you make your way back down.

From lessons for beginners to local guides for the more adventurous, the Ecole du Ski Francais Courchevel are always on hand and can be swiftly organised by request of the concierge. If, like me, you’re a tad nervous and a fan of a little sit down from time to time to ‘enjoy the scenery’, the tentative skier will find their feet on a mix of 17% green and 39% blue runs. And with every peak accessible by lift, you can still enjoy the best views without the worry of a tough journey back down as penance.

For those on the other level of the scale, a generous mix of 33% red and 11% black runs interweave across the mountainside, with an equally formidable off-piste area. Legendary runs test and thrill, such as “Jean Blanc”, a technical run with a gradient of over 40%, named after one of the resort’s founding fathers, hosting a covetable view at its conclusion.

For a relaxing break from whatever you take from the piste, The Chalet de Pierres awaits you for lunch. People-watch in style with a glass of wine, maybe alongside something cheese-driven, truffle-related and traditionally French from their Savoyard menu, and take in the landscape as you plan the afternoon’s routes across the mountain. Deliciously satisfying on all accounts.

If enjoying a family break, the Ecole du Ski can of course impart the wisdom of the mountains to have the tiniest in your group confidently whizzing past you in no time. Back at the Palace, their Winter Camp offers childcare off the slopes with an immersive range of entertainment on site. With lots of activities, like dog-sledging, available for the whole family, no one is left out; even the spa has a range of child-friendly treatments.

To enjoy the snow from other velocities or angles, ask your concierge as there are a host of adventures included with any suite or chalet stay. After a fresh snowfall, let them arrange first track access to the slopes before they open to the public, or for the truly intrepid, take a heli-skiing

trip to the highest peaks. Snowshoeing with a guide takes the mountain at a leisurely pace for those wanting to explore off-piste. For a romantic foray, take a scenic picnic of different courses just off the slopes, a quaint horsedrawn carriage ride, or the truly unforgettable experience of sledging by night. Away from the slopes, you might take a chauffeured trip into Courchevel village to peruse the shops, from the comfort of the resplendent Les Airelles Rolls Royce Cullinan.

Between speculating over the bruises you’ve earned on the slopes and aching muscles in general, or simply for another opportunity to relax – you are on holiday after all – a trip to the spa is always in order. From fitness to wellness, take your pick from the indoor pool, jacuzzi, sauna, hammam or snow cave, or a tailored treatment from the La Mer treatment rooms. Of their inclusive range of massages, from those to relax or heal postsport, I particularly recommend The Body Ritual. With a blissful hour employing a mix of stretching, acupressure, shiatsu and Swedish techniques to knead any twinging muscles with the accompaniment of La Mer products, it’s a sublime way to refresh and relax.

The wellness continues in your suite, with a personal hammam. Showers fitted with Skinjay essential oil diffusers are my new bathroom obsession, turning your usual steamy relaxation mode into a full aromatherapy sensory experience. Or maybe a hot salt bath is in order, just get the champagne on ice so your companion can pass you a glass as you recline and get ready for the evening’s events. You can pack that little bit lighter too, knowing that each room comes with a Dyson Supersonic hairdryer in a Les Airelles branded leather case, no less.

Entering the Palace is like stepping into the fold of the beau monde. You’ll come to realise it’s a whole new level of luxury, yet without pretensions, offering the warmth that comes from a place that feels like home or the comforting embrace of an old friend. There is no worry about accidentally creasing a cushion, feeling out of place, or meeting the lofty chill of somewhere that tries too hard.

Their generous lounge, with enveloping velvet sofas and low tables waiting to be filled with refreshments, is a communal spot by a vast roaring fire. Each evening it transforms into a spirited saloon, with live music accompanying your conversation about the day’s exploits. If you enjoy the art of mixology, their cocktail menu is a pleasure. The Gentleman was one savoured choice: Sexton single malt whiskey, with vineyard peach liqueur, juiced citrus and basil syrup, served in a smoke-filled bell jar and served with a spritz of Lagavulin 16. Its clever

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: THE CHALET DE PIERRES; ON THE SLOPES; A SNOWY CARRIAGE RIDE; LA MER SPA.

combinations and experimental presentation are reminiscent of a trip to Paris’ Little Red Door or London’s Artiesan. Later, taking dinner at Le Coin Savoyard is a must. It’s an altogether traditional affair that covers the fine art of fondue, raclette, soufflé and the oh so ever indulgent and rich tartiflette, as always, with beautiful wines to complement.

During our stay, we were bestowed the opportunity to take a peek at the new Les Airelles private chalets, launching for the 2022–23 season. Diverse living areas with decadent decor and vast stone fireplaces stretch across multiple floors, offering endless space to relax. A personal cinema, bar, games room and lounges afford

ample exclusive options to enjoy the company. And with all en-suite rooms, a dedicated wellness space with a swimming pool, fitness suite and spa treatment rooms, your privacy is guaranteed.

The three chalets even offer direct access to Les Airelles’ new dining concept, La Cave Des Grands Crus, a chef’s table experience, with tailor-made menus from the open kitchen. Dine privately surrounded by the hotel’s exquisitely curated vintage wine collection in a private group of up to 16 guests.

When it comes time to leave, a last fleeting glimpse of pine trees and mountainsides

crisscrossed with slopes, freckled with antlike skiers recedes behind you. The only way to soothe the heavy heart at the end of your getaway is, of course, to have the next trip lined up. Maybe next time it should be the same location, just all the more opulent? Just to be sure, get your chalet lined up. Next time, on that first dawn where the sun stretches through the drapes, you rouse knowing your chef is already arranging breakfast in your private lounge. A private morning swim and a daily massage after skiing await you, from the comfort of your residence. Next time, the mountain is truly yours.

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The Return to Cervo

Words: Peter J Robinson

It’s been a decade since I last visited Cervo in Zermatt. A decade. I cannot paraphrase the total tonnage of cultural change the world has experienced in the last decade, but let’s try anyway. The passing of Bowie, the start of the Egyptian revolution, confirmation of the same-sex marriage law and the triggering of article 50. How’s that for a start? Back in the winter of 2012, I was writing for another title, and while pausing at the eminent Heinz Julen Loft, was invited across to Cervo for supper. It was, as expected, a strong service but with more zeal than I had seen from some of the more traditional Zermatt institutions. Indeed, it was intriguing enough to commit to memory ten years ago. So, in 2022 I returned, curious to see how the decade had treated Cervo.

The hotel had been open only a few years when I met owner Daniel Lauber. In 2012 he first explained that the Cervo resort was a reclaimed contemporary hunting lodge and was formerly a Lauber family retreat. “When I was about six or seven years old, someone asked me what I wanted to do. I remember it clearly: I said I wanted to own a hotel.” says Daniel. “Maybe it was in my bones and not my family’s, who are in a different trade altogether. However, my being

in a hotel feels right somehow. Like home, I suppose. People of the Upper Valais have a tendency to rebel. We consider ourselves the Scots of Switzerland. We can be a little bit edgier than the rest of the country.” I can certainly attest that they’ve gotten punchier over time.

I arrived in town a little after one o’clock via an early road transfer from Gstaad. If it was 2012 me, I would have changed in the car, sent the luggage to the hotel and taken the Sunnegga funicular straight to the piste - message the concierge before you arrive, and they’ll gladly send an electric taxi. It’s a short walk through

town from the train station and has a lift up to the property, but not with skis and luggage. Post dinner, sure.

My last arrival at Cervo was at night and in October, if memory serves, so it was great to see a fully decent après scene in effect. It was early March and the home run snow ran right to the hotel door. We checked in under bluebird skies whilst their terrace was hosting a very content group of revellers.

Initially, I recognised very little of the Cervo interior. A renovation in 2020 shifted their visual to a modern alpine style, with a refocus

CERVO’S EXPANSIVE TERRACE AND BAZAAR

of philosophy toward a more ecological and sustainable model. I’m so confident in their stylistics that I would wager I could bring any of my circle of friends here, and each and every one would consistently award top marks. Since my last visit, they’ve expanded substantially but sympathetically, with the resort now featuring 54 rooms and suites all split between seven separate chalets. Every room either features a terrace or balcony and comes under four types; alpinist, nomad, huntsman and overlook lodge.

After check-in at the all-day lounge bazaar and following a few rounds of welcome cocktails, I headed down to the boot room to stow my Zai

Stone skis. Note; they blend in too well to the Cervo natural stone after a couple of drinks. On my way through Cervo’s Alpinists reprise I passed vintage climbing gear, neatly framed wooden ice skate blades and set design worthy of a distinction. The ‘huntsman ashram’ feel is cleverly done and with no shortage of deftness. I was impressed, and whilst saying ‘I’m not easily impressed’ earns me no points publicly, it’s nonetheless a valid proclamation.

Lauber calls the 2020’s a ‘formative decade’ that began with modest additions to the ‘contemporary hunters’ hotel. “The foundation of CERVO is and remains Zermatt,

with its close ties to nature, and the spirit of discovery to roam freely within it”. We decide to roam freely to our room: an Alpinist M set slightly away from the main building with commanding views of the Matterhorn. You’ll find Marshall speakers, bakelite phones and a sense of alpine tranquillity with an earthy aesthetic. If you’ve got more than two cases, better to step into an Alpinist L. The bathrooms were stocked with Soeder natural toiletries and our addition to the decor this season was the Rimowa in the bathtub. The balcony provides the perfect place to perch on a deck chair and soak in the view. The tasteful in-room pop out bar also

ALPINIST M ROOM

THE VIEW FROM THE BAZAAR

featured a host of kitsch produce from sherpa wine to Pollastrini Sardines.

Below the terrace, the Mountain Ashram Spa looked well subscribed, and is inspired by Japanese onsen. It includes traditional European saunas and Bhutanese hot stone baths.

After a full unpack, we returned to the terrace with its vintage gondola bars and lively crowd for a Cervo spritz. As the sun set and the chill started to bite, the view of the Matterhorn from the terrace telescope was all the more bewitching at golden hour.

Supper that evening was at Ferdinand, Cervo’s locally sourced Valais restaurant. Spend an evening in the company of great fondue and raclette with an enviable view over the village and some very good Swiss wines indeed - it’s a rite of passage, really. Try the 60% Vacherin Fribourgeois and 40% Gruyère mix with the Natura Beef Cut in Rosemary-Lemon-PepperMustard-Marinade.

For me, however, it was returning to Cervo’s main restaurant that held the most intrigue. Now called Madre Nostra and clearly on the Michelin track, it celebrates Italy’s culinary greats with modern creations and

sympathetically refined classics. Everything is sourced from local farms and fishermen, which is clearly a big sustainability driver for the operation. The menu, whilst well formed, did generate some palpable fear of missing an essential dish. Fomo, if you will. Forgive me the dialectic departure. I eventually opt for the fried Artichokes, Salsa Verde and Mint followed by the fish of the day. Both were divine, but it’s my fellow diners’ dish that clearly got away. Sensing our total analysis paralysis, the gentleman sitting on the next table says, “try the carbonara, I have it every time I come.” We scan the menu, and return puzzled gazes. “It’s not on the menu. Just ask for it; they serve it with the most delicate truffles”. My guest obliges, orders and takes shelter as the truffle shower begins over the plate in earnest. We share a glance. She knows she’s got a triumphant dish, and so to the victor go the spoils.

Despite spending two nights at Cervo and thoroughly enjoying my return, I don’t think I managed to really scratch the surface. The home run down to the bar was a stand out, sweeping turns through forest clearings and out onto the mountain roads now covered

entirely with powder. Breakfast was missed in its entirety, and I know that would have been a well-thought-out service for sure. In a total turn of travesty, the mountain spa was also sadly missed due to an already busy schedule and early departure. I have already personally checked availability at Cervo for the next few months and not surprisingly, I cannot find a single window. If, however, you are planning on a full property buyout, I am sure the Lauber’s would entertain your call.

Cervo has come into its own in the last decade, reflecting a significant change in times and attitude. We applaud the sustainable approaches, the removal of plastic in rooms and efforts aimed at carbon footprint reduction and societal awareness. As founding members of the Responsible Hotels of Switzerland, their bonafides are in order. I also appreciate a well-cultivated après scene and Cervo has me wanting to return for a further baptism this season. Let’s not leave it another decade, though.

Finding Balance

Words: Florean

Balance

Florean Smout

ith the season’s first snowfall, it’s time to reflect, take stock, and consider the year ahead. Many of us are seeking new ways to restore some sense of inner balance, further boost energy levels and find ways to create even more happiness in our lives. Personally, I take a lot from visiting the mountains; whether that’s at altitude or in the valleys below. Being amongst 4000m high peaks truthfully reaffirms my understanding of our place in this world.

As such, when the invite arrived from The Alpina Gstaad to join a Tibetan Wellness Retreat with Head Therapist Antonis Sarris, I felt great gratitude. Having not set eyes on the Alps since 2020, it was the perfect opportunity to embrace those iconic mountains’ invigorating fresh air and overwhelming peacefulness.

Set in the Bernese Oberland, The Alpina Gstaad is the newest arrival to the rarefied atmosphere of this long-fabled Swiss enclave. Having landed at Saanen airfield earlier in the day and still reeling from the game of Rimowa Roulette played in the

Wbaggage hall at Geneva, I can safely say some respite was sorely required. What better way to shake off the journey than with a visit to the Six Senses Spa at The Alpina Gstaad?

Switzerland is arguably one of the most progressive when it comes to world-class spa and wellness retreats. Having opened in 2012, the 2,000 sqm Six Senses Spa at The Alpina Gstaad was the first to open in Switzerland. The spa offers not only a wide variety of beauty, rejuvenation and holistic treatments (from deep tissue massages to Swiss salt scrubs), but also a number of holistic wellness programs.

My spa journey starts with a Sound Healing session by the wonderful Verena. Upon arrival at the spa, and after the usual paperwork, I was led through the facilities’ calming stone-clad walkways, which boast organically shaped wooden swirls on its ceilings and walls. The circular-shaped treatment room was subtly lit, with a small set of steps leading to a cosy treatment deck.

Sound healing therapy is an ancient practice originating in Tibetan and Himalayan culture, mainly making use of Tibetan singing bowls. It is believed that using sound frequencies promotes a state of harmony and health in minds and bodies, activating the body’s system of self-healing.

I spent an hour being bathed in soothing sounds and vibrations created by singing bowls, a gong, tuning forks and other musical instruments. It’s a truly meditative acoustic sound concert, which Verena performs with pitch-perfect style and grace. Leaving the cocoon of sound, safety and connectedness behind, I felt adjusted and at peace. With one of my senses heightened, I finally noticed the babbling sound of the spa’s water features on my way back to my room. I positioned myself on the terrace to soak in the sun and allowed myself time to process the experience further, letting it all sink in against the striking natural backdrop.

My previous experience with sound healing was at the Six Senses spa in Koh Samui. I shared a moving sound experience with a small group of friends (one’s snoring did add a sense of calm), ending in a silent stream of happy tears and a feeling of deep connectedness to my late grandmother, Reiki master and yogi. It was on that basis that I was eager to attend the Tibetan Retreat in Gstaad.

After a few hours on the terrace, I was feeling a renewed inner zenness having had all my chakras realigned, and decided the best move is to take it easy with a laid-back dinner at the Alpina Bar. In between courses, I lean back and disappear into my club chair, mesmerised by the period

hand-painted wooden ceiling. It’s here I meet Tim Weiland, The Alpina Gstaad’s General Manager. We chat about the Tibetan Wellness retreat over drinks and Tim advises me to try to turn up sober for tomorrow’s Wellness Screening & Tibetan stress consultation. Duly noted.

Waking up the following morning after a good night’s sleep, I feel wonderfully balanced and wellrested. I step out onto the balcony overlooking the hotel’s terrace, outdoor pool and, most importantly, its snowy peaks Eggli & Wispile. I ponder the upcoming treatment, all too aware that I have lived life a little too well recently; a thought that makes me unable not to be slightly nervous. I head down to the spa for the Wellness Screening, where I meet Antonis Sarris, Head Therapist and super guru extraordinaire. He is quite the personification of Zen. Antonis immediately makes me feel at ease, of course, with his astute bedside manner. After putting my hands and feet on metal plates, he places electrodes on my forehead to measure key physiological biomarkers such as metabolism, circulation and oxygen distribution.

This is followed by a lifestyle checkup based on the Tibetan humours of wind, bile and phlegm. The goal is to allow me to create a better understanding of what my mind and body need, forging a plan of attack and begin applying future improvements.

Antonis suggests a gut detox - by means of a juice cleanse - would be sensible, as this might allow me to identify sensitivities to certain food groups. He also advises engaging in slow-paced exercises such as yoga and going for longer walks.

and mental performance, while detoxifying and strengthening the immune system. AFA Klamath is a freshwater microalgae that appeared on Earth approximately 3.5 billion years ago. With more than 115 nutrients, it’s considered to be the most complete and balanced food on the planet. This is paired with an Organic pomegranate supplement, which is a hydration booster and collagen activator.

Having introduced a semi-regular juice cleanse, two - three yoga sessions a week and routinely taking the supplements, my body feels calmer, my skin is clearer and my sleep has improved. What’s more, I’m finding I have far fewer cravings for sugar and fats.

If you are in need of some well-deserved multi level R&R, the Tibetan Healing Retreat runs from 9th December 2022 - 12th March 2023. This three-day and four-night treatment-filled experience will leave you feeling rejuvenated, energised and balanced.

After the consultation, Antonis recommends some Green Ethnies supplements, including the Organic AFA Klamath which stimulates cell regeneration

“

The goal is to allow me to create a better understanding of what my mind and body need, forging a plan of attack and begin applying future improvements”

Wanderlust

Words:

It’s been a joyous year to lament how I never managed beautiful Burgundy permit. move, to let my feet lead lead me to parts unknown

BURGENSTOCK HOTEL, LAKE LUCERNE

Wanderlust

to once again travel freely, but I do managed to savour the last use of that permit. For now, I crave to be on the lead me onto a plane and my passport unknown or a home away from home.

Words: Naomi Lake

Forestis, Italian Dolomites

Dense forest and mountain peaks make up the painterly views of the UNESCO world heritage site, perfectly framed by every window of the Forestis luxury hideaway. It’s quite literally, art.

Unwind within the extensive range of year-round wellness retreats. Their Peace of Mind package calls to me. Daily Wyda Celtic yoga is interspersed with curated experiences like restorative massage at their exquisite spa, as well as a hiking tour. Perhaps I would add on a hot air balloon ride to see the view from the top. Dining is ‘Forest Cuisine’ combining variety, naturalness and authenticity, and drinks are served at the world’s highest rooftop bar. All this across three nights in the Tower Suite.

In 2023 I want to make my travel eco-minded. Forestis is a CO2-neutral construction, within a natural atmosphere and 100% renewably sourced energy. I’m mentally packing my bag now.

Burgenstock Hotel, Switzerland

For more ways to connect with the outdoors, try floating above it at Burgenstock Hotel. Waterside views are always magnetic for me – maybe it comes with my name? I long to wake and be greeted with the panoramic floor-to-ceiling aqua vista, my room seemingly suspended over the shimmering water.

The need I feel to experience their infinityedge outdoor pool is overwhelming. The longing I feel to pore over the menu in their 10,000 square foot Alpine Spa is enduring. Standing as one of the largest spas in Europe, guests will indulge in rebalancing hot and cold Kneipp baths, infrared cabins, salt-water baths, saunas, a vast menu of treatments, from the modern Swiss line oxygen rescue facial and Susanne Kaufmann massages, to traditional herbal baths. You couldn’t leave in any other way than sublimely relaxed, yet simultaneously not ready to leave.

Tschuggen Grand Hotel, Switzerland

Surrounded by high peaks enveloped in snow, Tschuggen Grand Hotel connects you to the peaks with ski-in ski-out access with the hotel’s own unique mountain railway taking you straight to 220km of slopes to explore.

To invigorate the tired mind, or soothe aching muscles, step into Tschuggen Bergoase Spa, with four leisurely floors of luxury carved into the mountainside with cathedralesque, edificial, windows illuminating the space.

The therapy of the outdoors is examined by their new ‘Moving Mountain’ concept retreat. From ice bathing to light painting, silent hikes or sunrise skiing, explore yourself as you enjoy the mountains. Return each evening to the Dream Butler Experience, which includes a footbath and turndown service to prepare you for melting into a perfect night’s sleep.

Hotel Le Coucou, France

High in the hills of Méribel, Hotel Le Coucou offers fresh, contemporary, alpine luxury with views that will engulf you for hours if you let them. And let them, I will.

Whilst technically two pools, both indoor and outdoor, separated just by a window, the infinity pool stretches lazily into those soothing mountain views for long, leisurely swims. If treatments are more your thing, enjoy a private cabin for massage, facials, body wraps using organic Tata Harper products.

Level up your stay by taking a private chalet. With 590 square metres, room for 12, four floors, and the services of a dedicated butler. These numbers will deliver a time away you won’t be able to forget quickly.

Refuge de la Traye, France

For a vista of the same range, but from a getaway that is as much about the spa as anything else, the eco-friendly luxury refuge Refuge de la Traye is a must. Indulge in unique traditional treatments such as their milk bath, or hay bed, the ancestral practice of Tyrolean farmers. Or if you fancy high-tech, try their LED therapy room, Wellsystem ‘dry-water’ massage, or Iyashi Dôme infrared sauna.

If you ever manage to tear yourself away to work up an appetite on the slopes, La Table de la Traye is the perfect place to survey the slopes you have just descended. Created in partnership with Michelin-starred chef Akrame Benallal, the menu is sure to be as alluring as the view.

Hotel Les Barmes de l’Ours, France

When it comes to a break, I want delectable spa treatments (always with a breathtaking pool), beautiful dishes and imbibements and ample opportunity to get outside and explore the beautiful scenery. Change linker*

Even enjoying an evening swim means you will be under the stars, with their glass ceiling pool at Les Spa Des Barmes. The 5-star-hotel spa hosts Sisley for wellness rituals and massages from around the world, within private treatment cabins. Perhaps their Yin yoga retreat will be your zen.

Possibly later that evening, you’ll admire the same stars above Val d’Isère through the panoramic windows of La Table de l’Ours, their Michelin Starred restaurant.

I don’t ask for much. But Les Barmes de l’Ours delivers on all counts.

Bohinj Sunrose 7, Slovenia

In 2020 a friend was stranded in the UK for six months after having intended just a weekend visit in March. Fast forward to 2021, and they were moving back from Slovenia as my partner. In place of the trip I never managed to make, I welcome Sunrose 7 on Lake Bohinj to this list of places I yearn for.

I want to lounge at their private spa, starting with a carbonised Finnish sauna, then an ice waterfall for a Kneipp treatment, and later, a relaxing hot tub. To explore the outdoors, I will take a wild swim or outdoor yoga session, all while looking out at the snow-covered mountains of the Julian Alps.

Words: The Review Team Photography: Christophe Hassle

Thank your god it’s that time of year again. The mountains have rigged up a powder-coated Roland amp, plugged in, and they’re calling out to the great beyond loud and clear. It’s time. Time to return to that vast wilderness of an escape that we can feel in our bones. In every fibre of our being. Dust off that ‘noughties’ DC board bag and get packed already. Feeling like you might be a season out of date due to a mandatory lockdown? We wouldn’t sweat it at all but look no further if you need it, powder fiends.

UNISEX PEACEMAKER INSULATED GLOVE

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A fuss-free, insulated glove that’ll keep your hands warm and dry from November to April. Planks’ Peacemaker pleather palms provide proper pole purchase –put that in your pipe and smoke it!

FUN-GAREES

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Planks’ version of your favourite dungarees, but designed snowready with recycled RIDEdry10 fabric. A slim fit bib pant loaded with style and functionality, you won’t want to take these off. The “Escape Hatch” design saves you from taking off all your layers to use the toilet, a real perk. Targeted insulation means there’s warmth in all the right places without unflattering bulk. The quickrelease buckles, adjustable straps and elasticated back panel help you to find your perfect fit. Bib up and go buckle yourself.

BRO-DOWN INSULATED MITT

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These Bro-Down mittens are heaters for your hands. Individual inner fingers keep your digits toasty. The durable pleather palms add all the grip you’ll ever need and don’t get sliced up by ski edges. It’s kinda like leather, but no cows were harmed in the process.

PARK ‘N RIDE RIDING HOODIE

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From peak to party, Planks

Park n’ Ride Hoodie finds the sweet spot between an everyday hooded sweatshirt and technical outerwear. Too hot in a jacket, too wet in a hoody: Spring plays havoc with wardrobe decisions! Keep things simple in Planks’ Park n’ Ride riding hoodie, its incognito tech is ideal for spring shredding.

PARKSIDE SOFT SHELL RIDING HOODIE

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The Parkside is the original Planks riding hoodie. It has been tried, tested and refined by their athlete team for more than a decade. Grab it as you dash out the door; thanks to its soft-shell fabric and considered features, like zip up pockets and DWR coating, it’s the most mountain-friendly hoodie you’ll ever own.

HUFF ‘N PUFFA JACKET

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Planks’ Huff ‘n Puffa combines the style and hug-feel-warmth of a puffa jacket with the tech features of a ski jacket. Its 150g insulation, 10k /10k recycled fabric and slightly cinched-in waist mean you don’t have to compromise style whilst out in those freezing conditions. The detachable powder skirt and multitude of pockets make it ideal for everyday life. A badass jacket that’ll protect you from the cold and wet, wherever your adventures take you.

RUROC

the most extreme the mountains are and this helmet play. The RG1-DX disrupt. To break stand out from making the loudest of offering the most protection. Not one crowd, the RG1-DX slopes, and even aprés, living life at full and enter a new from the elements transformed into a slope machine, eating up the the spills.

reliability in a wide range of conditions. It’s equally at home on steep descents as it is on hard pack or backside skiing. The new Ranger Performance Liner together with the upgraded TPU shell and collar increase shock absorption and stiffness, while offering progressive flex. This also improves durability and ease-of-entry. GripWalk® soles and the integrated ski/walk lever allow easy climbs to favorite spots, as well as secure walking in icy parking lots.

mountain capability of Hawx Ultra with the epic natural movement of Backland, Free/Lock 2.0 ski-to-walk mechanism and Frictionless Pivot deliver unbeatable uphill performance, and Complete Tech inserts in the toe and heel allow for maximum touring binding compatibility. The 120 model has a slightly softer plastic construction than the Hawx Ultra XTD 130 CT GW model but offers the same highly customizable Mimic Platinum liner to exactly match your foot shape.

HAWX 120

www.atomic.com

Combining mountain the epic effortless Free/Lock and Frictionless uphill performance, Tech inserts allow for compatibility. slightly softer the Hawx but offers Mimic Platinum your foot

HAWX ULTRA XTD

www.atomic.com

Combining the skiing power and allmountain capability of Hawx Ultra with natural movement of Backland, effortless ascending has arrived. The Free/Lock 2.0 ski-to-walk mechanism Frictionless Pivot deliver unbeatable performance, and Complete inserts in the toe and heel maximum touring binding compatibility. The 120 model has a softer plastic construction than Hawx Ultra XTD 130 CT GW model offers the same highly customizable Platinum liner to exactly match foot shape.

HI-SPEED ELITE

Race-inspired control meets unparalleled fit and comfort. The Rossignol Hi-Speed Elite 130 Carbon LV ski boots pair cutting-edge shell design with an unmatched out-of-the-box fit for skiers who prefer a low-volume fit. Using generative design and carbon-infused materials, Rossignol have engineered the boot shell for maximum energy transfer and high-speed control through every carve.

www.blizzard-tecnica.com

the Cochise 130 is reserved for the highly committed skiers not willing to compromise between power, stiffness and performance. It features a monster 130 flex with a PU shell and PP cuff for an added level of stiffness and durability. There are also carbon reinforcements on the upper to keep it from deforming.

MACAI LT

www.arcteryx.com

On-piste days can go from bluebird to squall in an instant. Designed to handle the unpredictable, the Macai LT delivers light warmth and serious GORE-TEX weather protection with a refined look that moves easily off-mountain. Responsiblysourced European goose down provides thermal comfort, while breathable GORE-TEX sheds wind, rain, and snow. Its helmet-compatible StormHood™ adjusts to fit, pit zippers ventilate, a RECCO® reflector can assist search teams, and multiple pockets provide storage.

SENTINEL ONE PIECE

www.planksclothing.com

Nothing beats the single piece when the powder gets deep and the mountain gets steep, and the Sentinel brings the complete protection you need to enjoy those big days. Waterproof, windproof, and durable, the 80D 3L GORE-TEX fabric utilizes GORE C-KNIT™ backer technology for enhanced breathability and comfort. The StormHood™ pivots with your head, thigh vents keep you cool on the uptrack, an embedded RECCO® reflector can aid search and rescue, and the TouringCuff™ makes boot buckle management easy.

HYBRIDGE FUNNEL-NECK SHELL-DOWN HOODED GILET

www.canadagoose.com

Be protected from the elements (if our typical winter is anything to go by, you’re surely going to need it) in this Hybridge gilet from Canada Goose. Crafted with a voluminous puffer silhouette and filled with insulating goose down, it’s got your back – literally.

SKIPPER ECRU VARSITY JUMPER

www.hemingsworth.com

Sitting at the heart of this years collection, Hemingsworth’s take on the classic Varsity rowing club sweater. The Skipper uses Zenga Baruffa Cashmere Merino 10 ply

WILKINSON BRANDTAB WOOL-KNITTED CARDIGAN

www.peregrineclothing.co.uk

Based in a country that knows all too well a cold weather spell, Peregrine is a bit of a dab hand when it comes to whipping up warming styles. Our pick? The Wilkinson cardigan. Designed with woodland walks and snuggly sofa days in mind, the long-sleeved layer is knitted together from toasty wool and shaped to slouchy silhouette that falls languidly over your frame.

FAIR ISLE ROLLNECK WOOL

www.ralphlauren.co.uk

All-American icon Polo Ralph Lauren certainly knows how to dress for cold climes – this jumper is proof. Whipped up from pure wool into a chunky knit, it’s shaped to a relaxed fit that’s perfect for layering over T-shirts and shirts.

SKI ST-MORITZ HOODY

www.bally.co.uk

When the time came to dream up its AW22 line-up, Swiss label Bally looked to its roots. Paying homage to the snowy peaks of its home country, the label imagines the Ski St-Moritz hoody.

ZIPPED STAND-COLLAR MERINO WOOL-KNIT

JACKET

www.johnsmedley.com

John Smedley is considered one of the finest producers of knitwear in the world – not surprising, seeing as the name has been creating garments in its Derbyshire factory since 1784. This merino wool jumper takes the heritage label’s commitment to excellent craftsmanship and quality textiles to create a more contemporary piece, with a sporty zip fastening – it’s bound to be a failsafe layer in your rotation for years to come.

SKI SUIT

www.hollandcooper.com

Make a statement on the slopes this season with the first ever H&C Ski Suit. Designed with a four way stretch, this suit has been created to be both water and snow resistant whilst ensuring its still breathable and quick drying. With responsibly sourced down filling the sleeves for warmth, the luxurious faux fur trimmed hood is detachable and cosy. Offering maximum comfort thanks to its underarm vents, this jumpsuit also features adjustable vented zip hems to fit over any boots. This jumpsuit also features a lower cuff pocket for you lift pass, silicone branding and a chic waist-belt with gold HC fastening.

REVERSIBLE MONOGRAM SCARF

www.hollandcooper.com

SKI JACKET

www.hollandcooper.com

The hero of any ski wardrobe, this Ski Jacket has all of the technical attributes required for a day on the slopes. Designed with a snow and water resistant stretch fabric with a detachable faux fur trimmed hood, this jacket is both practical and stylish. Offering maximum comfort thanks to its armpit vents, responsibly sourced down fill and neoprene storm cuffs, this jacket also features an internal snow skirt for added protection. Detailed with a detachable HC belt, silicone prints and finished with a lower cuff pocket for you lift pass.

CAMDEN BIKER BOOT

www.hollandcooper.com

LOGO SKI KNIT

www.hollandcooper.com

Created from super soft themolite yarns and a comfortable roll neck, ensure you are ski ready this season with this Thermal Ski Knit. Ensuring both warmth and breathability, these knits wear perfectly with our ski suits and salopettes.

WINDSOR BOBBLE HAT

www.hollandcooper.com

SLEEVELESS SKI SUIT

www.hollandcooper.com

Move elegantly on the slopes in this Sleeveless Ski Suit. Made from a 4 way stretch, snow and water resistant fabric, this ski suit is not only stylish but has all the technical attributes needed for a busy day on the slopes. Designed with a slim fit and body contouring shape, this statement piece is perfect for après ski attire.

THERMAL SKI BASE LAYER

www.hollandcooper.com

Inspired by the H&C Equestrian base layers but re-imagined using a heavy brushed polyamide fabric with added Teflon coating for water & snow resistance, the Thermal Ski Base Layer is the perfect piece to ensure you stay protected whilst on the slopes. Offering maximum comfort and designed with a body contouring fit and high neckline, this base layer has been detailed with silicone branding and HC finishes.

THE HOUNDSTOOTH

www.hollandcooper.com

The hero of any ski wardrobe, this Ski Jacket has all of the technical attributes required for a day on the slopes. Designed with a snow and water resistant stretch fabric with a detachable faux fur trimmed hood, this jacket is both practical and stylish. Offering maximum comfort thanks to its armpit vents, responsibly sourced down fill and neoprene storm cuffs, this jacket also features an internal snow skirt for added protection.

BLACK WANDERER TALL BOOTS

www.schuh.co.uk

The black Wanderer Tall Boot arrives from Hunter. Boasting a durable waterproof lower, insulated upper and soft fleece lining. OrthoLite insoles provide supreme comfort in every step while a drawstring closure provides heat retention and a custom fit.

BLACK CORTINA VALLEY BOOTS

www.schuh.co.uk

The ultimate classic Timberland Cortina Valley Boots have just landed in an all black-colourway. Boasting a nubuck upper with lace-up closures and a padded cuff for supreme comfort. Iconic branding and a sturdy rubber sole finishes this look nicely.

BLACK TINO II TALL BOOTS

www.schuh.co.uk

The black Wanderer Tall Boot arrives from Hunter. Boasting a durable waterproof lower, insulated upper and soft fleece lining. OrthoLite insoles provide supreme comfort in every step while a drawstring closure provides heat retention and a custom fit.

TAN DELINA SUEDE KNEE BOOTS

www.schuh.co.uk

Knee high boots are back this season, the Delina Suede Knee Boot from schuh arrives to level up your rotation. This classy fit boasts a versatile tan colourway with a suede upper and block heel. Dress this fit up or down for ultimate style points!

BURGUNDY BEDLINGTON BOOTS

www.schuh.co.uk

Giving off premium vibes, we introduce the Barbour Bedlington Boots! This chelsea boot profile lands in a soft but durable burgundy leather upper with a slight heel, easy ankle loops and sturdy rubber tread.

BLACK 6 INCH CLASSIC BOOTS

www.schuh.co.uk

The ultimate classic is back in an all-black colourway. The 6-Inch Premium from Timberland features a nubuck upper with a padded cuff for supreme comfort. Embossed branding on the side and a skid resistant rubber outsole finish things nicely.

BLACK DIXON SUEDE BOOTS

www.schuh.co.uk

Get this seasons upgrade right here! The schuh Dixon Suede Boot boasts a versatile black suede upper with elasticated sidewalls to keep things real comfy. This sophisticated fit is on our love list.

BROWN LYNCH BOOTS

www.schuh.co.uk

Upgrade your boot collection with Base London! The Base Lynch boot arrives in a brown leather upper. Chelsea boot silhouette keeps it low-key while branding completes.

JUST IN CASE

If you’re like me, ‘make a list and check it twice’ applies to any task. Here are my top five items to make sure to take with you into the snow.

SHOT BY: CHRISTOPHE HASSLE

JIM FROM PLANKS SKIING A PICTURESQUE REGION SOMEWHERE RELATIVELY RAD.

Words: Naomi Lake Pictures: Christophe Hassle

Ever since my deep dive article into CBD, I have been obsessed with this product arena for all aspects of wellness. To better enjoy a little moment of calm between the slopes and après-ski, soak those hard-working muscles with a Kloris Restore CBD Bath Bomb. Imbued with magnesium it won’t just generate a restful sleep but will help with recovery for the next day. That’s post-exercise recovery by the way, anything post-drinks related, unfortunately, is down to you. Whilst we’re speaking of Kloris, make sure to grab their Uplifting CBD Body Oil too, the blend of Blood Orange, Vanilla and Oud scents are heavenly and again, your muscles will thank you.

I love running, I adore hiking, and I grew up riding from the moment I could walk. Across that time I have learnt that with any sport the correct footwear is key, and with that, sitting quietly below is the right pair of socks. If anything is amiss in this symbiotic relationship, misery will be sure to ensue.

With this, a SOCKSHOP stop before you head away for an active holiday is key. Tuck a pair of Jeep Cable Knit socks into your boots, warm, fitted and stylishly rustic. Likewise, the Falke SK2 is the necessary accompaniment to your ski boots. They’re structured with targeted protection from compression, ventilation channels, and soft and cosy high thermal insulation merino wool. The Elle Chunky Cable Knit Leg Warmers keep you toasty when you want to layer up and the Heat Holders thermal socks are a godsend to anyone with perpetually chilly toes. Call me tame, but my versatile sock drawer is a constant source of comfort.

In my mission to find conscious ski gear for the season, I was lucky enough to be fitted out for the slopes by Planks. So much more than an outfitter I was complimented constantly. Check out their Fun-garees for cool-girl alpine chic or their effortlessly stylish men’s ‘working classics’ happy days anorak, it was a learning curve on the new school of activewear.

Whilst the consumer looks for sustainable products or garments, greenwashing is commonplace within all industries, yet can so often be hard to spot to the untrained eye. The Planks ‘We Are Not Eco Friendly’ campaign is as bold as it is needed in response to this trend. Offering transparency of production methods and the sourcing of materials, it’s such a breath of fresh air. I spoke to the creator, Jim, who has lived in the French Alps for 30 years, to find out a little more about what this initiative means to him personally.

“I’ve seen climate change’s impact on the environment with my own eyes. Glaciers are shrinking, forest fires are becoming more

ferocious and frequent, winters are becoming shorter, and the snowline climbs higher and higher every year. This is a place that I want to protect: For me and for future skiers”, he muses.

Whilst some look to governments for the answers, he believes it’s up to businesses and individuals to “pick up the baton until they start taking climate change seriously”.

He explains, “Planks has done a lot in the last few years to reduce our impact on the environment and there’s lots to feel good about, but we are still a long way off being “eco-friendly”. We don’t want to pull the wool over our customers’ eyes… we’re not doing the sustainability thing to sell more products, my team and I genuinely want to change our business for the better but to do that we have to acknowledge our shortcomings. That’s what the “We Are Not Eco-Friendly” is all about.”

As part of this awareness campaign the ‘No Skiing on Mars’ capsule collection donates to the Protect Our Winters and carbon literacy project. They are also leading by example, having already made their pledge as an organisation to start real, effective climate action. But I was intrigued, knowing how much this meant to them, exactly how has working with Protect Our Winters changed the company mindset?

Jim explained, “Protect Our Winters is in the trenches, helping organisations understand the part that they can play in tackling the climate crisis and setting out a path. Together, we’ve been able to make immediate, positive changes to our business, like moving Planks’ investments out of fossil fuels, switching to renewable energy suppliers… the easy stuff.”

But it doesn’t stop there. In moving to recycled outerwear fabrics, more than 1.6 million plastic bottles destined for landfills have been repurposed into their pieces. Plus, their “Wasters Program” is an ever-evolving project to make micro-runs of unique, patchwork pieces from

end-of-line fabrics, creating exclusive and fabulously eye-catching planet-friendly garms.

Jim finished with their plans for the future, “there’s the long-term goals like Net-Zero. The Protect Our Winters pledge has helped us to understand those commitments, set a realistic timeline to achieve them and provided a framework with milestones so that we can start chipping away at them. POW has provided the tools and knowledge we needed to turn intent into informed action”.Personally, I can’t wait to see what the next few seasons hold for the brand.

There aren’t too many options to create a truly unique outfit for the slopes, so why not finish your new look with a new pair of goggles? I had the Oakley Line Miner™ L Chloe Kim Signature Series Snow Goggles packed, and wow did they deliver.

In collaboration with five times X Games Gold Medalist and Olympic Gold Medalist snowboarder Chloe Kim, her signature purple theme inspired the fun pastel hardware and rose lenses. Designed for the best in peripheral vision, the slim-line design of the Line Miner L range brings the lenses closer to your face, giving extensive downward and side-to-side periphery.

You know your goggles are beyond comfortable when halfway up the gondola, you’ve not yet slipped them onto your forehead. As their lenses provides 100% protection against UVA, B and C, and blue light up to 400nm, there’s no need to worry about the hassle of swapping to sunglasses. Don’t worry, if pastel isn’t your vibe, you can check out the full Line Miner L collection for its 30 different colourways.

I’m already excited about my next trip out. Maybe, it will be more snow or perhaps I’ll be packing for sunshine? Who knows, but my passport has been neglected these past couple of years. It sure is looking forward to its next assignment.

Wanderlust

Words: The Review Team

We’ve taken in the fusion architecture at the Heinz Julen Loft, the vast remoteness of Chalet F’Net, the modernity of Chalet Dalmore. We’ve even played a few holes at San Lorenzo Mountain Lodge. Whether you’re in need of a middle-ofnowhere atmosphere, a sense of visual architectural drama or an on piste alpine retreat par excellence, here’s The Review’s must visit list.

Chalet Inoko, Val d’Isère

Overlooking Val d’Isère from a privileged position just above the central ‘Petit Alaska’ area, Inoko’s location tucked away in the trees is immensely private and yet just a short chauffeured minibus ride from the snow front and the resort’s infamous shopping and restaurant scene. With splendid views and a snowy forest backdrop, it is hard to imagine a more magical setting for a winter escape. The chalet’s crowning jewel is its magnificent top floor, with double height ceilings and enormous windows flooding the room with light. The majestic stone fireplace and opulent seating area are a wonderful place to gather with family and friends for canapés and champagne.

The Penthouse, Rosa Alpina, San Cassiano

A private refuge located on the top floor of the Engelstrakt. Housing one master suite, including its own private Finnish sauna with forest views and two additional bedrooms, all with hammam showers, the newly renovated Penthouse on the fourth floor spans 180m² and offers fabulous views of San Cassiano and the surrounding Dolomites peaks. The Penthouse has a private access via an internal elevator.

Four Twenty L’Elé, Morzine

Four Twenty L’Elé is a masterpiece in architecture and design, having been transformed from a traditional horse stable into a stunning, modern chalet. Floorto-ceiling windows, industrial-influenced features and designer fixtures and furnishings make this property a calm and beautiful place to enjoy your winter or summer holiday in Morzine.

Ultima, Crans-Montana

Ultima Crans-Montana goes above and beyond accommodating a large group of up to 38 guests. It’s made up of two ultra-luxurious private chalets, which can be reserved together or Chalet One by itself. Both have access to the retreat’s monumental spa and outdoor pool area.

Chalet Pearl, Courchevel

Built at the height of the station, 50 metres from the foot of the ski slopes, Chalet Pearl offers an incredible view of the Dent du Villard. Built in the purest Savoyard style, covering 700 square metres, this wooden and stone home surprises with its tangled structures, panelling and incredible carpentry. Noble wood brings profound warmth to this cocoon in the sky.

Ferme de Moudon, Les Gets

The sympathetic renovation, completed under the discerning eye of Nicky Dobree, has ensured the traditional architecture and authentic features of this eighteenth century farmhouse have been preserved. Interiors are classically elegant, yet the cosy textures and sumptuous furnishings are warm and inviting.

This chalet is a true retreat from reality; its location is incredibly private and secluded, yet you are only moments from the chic Alpine resort of Les Gets. Standing on the balcony, you hear nothing but the tumbling stream or the morning birdsong; you see nothing but the mountains, the snow-clad pines and the skies.