Outturn Dive in Friday 10 January Issue 01, 2020
WATERMELON DRAMS Dive into our fresh selection of summery single casks alongside our first experiences for 2020 inside. SMWS.COM.AU
CONTENTS Cellarmaster’s Note Andrew Derbidge.............................. 3 Malt of the Month Cask 93.104 Sweet, smoked Spanish paprika powder............ 4 Special Announcement
Ambassador’s Wrap Matt Bailey............................................ 17 New Society monogram Our identity evolves........................ 18 Events Check out the latest listings........ 19
Alex Moores......................................... 16
OUR BOTTLINGS SWEET, FRUITY & MELLOW
LIGHT & DELICATE
Cask No. 58.33 Sweet and juicy – dry finish ...............................................
6
Cask No. 112.46 A wafer a while............................................................................
6
7
Cask No. 59.57 ‘Pas de deux’....................................................................................
7
DEEP, RICH & DRIED FRUITS Cask No. 41.121 There will be blood orange...................................................
8
Cask No. G6.8 Soothing the mind......................................................................
8
11
OILY & COASTAL Cask No. 10.177 The marriage of Candy and Sandy.................................
SPICY & DRY
11
JUICY, OAK & VANILLA Cask No. 113.22 Cream of the crop ......................................................................
SPICY & SWEET Cask No. 107.18 Happy, heart-warming and hypnotic .........................
Cask No. 9.168 Cedar bigger picture.................................................................
12
LIGHTLY PEATED Cask No. 93.104 Sweet, smoked Spanish paprika powder (Malt of the Month)...................................................................
4
Cask No. 66.133 Farm salad......................................................................................
12
Cask No. 93.102 Papaya the sailor man............................................................
15
PEATED Cask No. 16.38 ACME ghost repellent ............................................................. 2
15
CELLARMASTER’S NOTE Dear Members, Not that I’m a creature of habit, but the festive season for me saw the usual routines followed. Notwithstanding the regular Christmas traditions and formalities, I made a point of enjoying, as always, a heavily sherried malt on Christmas day from a distillery that – for the purposes of this column – we’ll just call No. 1. And then there was also the usual social calls, catch-ups, and get-togethers. Alas, my reputation precedes me, and I’m expected to turn up to such gatherings with a requisite bottle of malt… yet I’ll invariably be seen with a beer once things get underway. It’s my beverage of choice in most social situations, particularly over the summer months. Shortly before Christmas, I was privileged to attend a very special whisky gathering in rural NSW, about a four hour drive west of Sydney. As part of the pre-event drinks, the beer was supplied by a local brewery which produces an utterly sensational Scottish Ale. Scottish ales are typically on the darker side of amber; thick and chewy in texture, and the flavours are strong and sweet, with a rich, toffeed maltiness, or a malty toffeeness. (Eric Idle would like that). I’m a big fan, and it highlights further that the Scots know a thing or two about what to do with barley. Of course, if you’ve spent time in Scotland, you’ve probably encountered the “hauf and hauf” – a dram of whisky and a half pint of ale. The two go together remarkably well, which many people are discovering with the revival in so-called boilermakers. Our culture is becoming increasingly absorbed in the exploration of flavours and of combining culinary experiences.
Put it down to the legacy of Masterchef or whatever, but the quality of what we’re dining on and drinking has taken a big upswing in the last decade. This is also confirmed in the studies and surveys that show that Australians, on average, are drinking less. Most articles or reports on the subject conclude that Australians are now going for quality, not quantity. It’s a long, long way removed from the stereotype in the 1970’s of us being a nation of beer-swillers. But that “quality not quantity” philosophy rings true now in many areas. The theme certainly hit home to me as I recently read The Founder’s Tale, by Pip Hills. As you read about the earliest days of the Society, you get a sense of the “road to Damascus” moment that so many people encountered when they first tasted a Society malt and appreciated the leap upwards in quality. Cask-strength, non-chillfiltered, single-cask whisky….the phrase rolls off the tongue these days, but it was such a foreign concept in the late 1970’s and early 1980’s. And people still struggled to see what it was all about when we first started spreading the Society gospel in Australia in 2002. 18 years later and we’ve now got 2020 vision. Dad jokes aside, this year will be a cracker and I look forward to sharing some fantastic drams and moments with you. Slàinte,
Andrew Derbidge ~ Director, Cellarmaster & NSW Manager
Cask-strength, non-chillfiltered, single-cask whisky… the phrase rolls off the tongue these days, but it was such a foreign concept in the late 1970’s and early 1980’s. 3
MALT OF THE MONTH
Cask 93.104 sweeps you off to Campbeltown, along the docks, sipping a sweet and smoky dram watching the sunset. Known for their remarkable spirit character and handmade spirit, this Sweet, smoked Spanish paprika powder finds its perfect balance in this lively 1st-fill barrel, with notes of pineapple, paprika powder, and sweet toffee by the bonfire for your summer holiday. With just 24 bottles available at this great price for Malt of the Month, don’t delay!
SWEET, SMOKED SPANISH PAPRIKA POWDER
REGION
Campbeltown
LIGHTLY PEATED
CASK TYPE
1st fill bourbon barrel
CASK NO. 93.104
AGE
8 years
DATE DISTILLED
17 September 2009
REDUCED FROM $199
OUTTURN
242 bottles
ABV
58.0%
AUS ALLOCATION
24 bottles
$159.00
We imagined sitting at a freshly polished wooden table, a lit scented (pine and lemongrass) beeswax candle as the centre piece and preparing grilled scallops in a white wine sauce. To taste a slightly burnt bagel spread with a caramelised pineapple cream cheese seasoned with a pinch of Pimenton Dulce (sweet smoked Spanish paprika powder). With a drop of water the aroma was that of using chalk paint for redecorating wooden bay window frames facing the sea whilst we chewed on salty liquorice, bonfire toffee, rich dark chocolate with a peppermint cream fondant centre and salvia bonbons filled with fresh sage extract. 4
5
REGION
Speyside
SWEET AND JUICY – DRY FINISH
CASK TYPE
Refill bourbon hogshead
AGE
11 years
DATE DISTILLED
13 September 2007
SWEET, FRUITY & MELLOW
OUTTURN
267 bottles
CASK NO. 58.33
ABV
59.7%
AUS ALLOCATION
12 bottles
$175.00
The nose had a subtle dryness (‘like a shoe-shine stand’, someone said) but it was mainly sweet and fruity – butter shortbread, creamy vanilla, rice crispy cake, marshmallow, marzipan and chocolate orange creams. A similar pattern on the taste – juicy orange marmalade, sherbet and brown sugar, with the dryness coming out in the finish – black tea, leather, spiced nuts and oak. With water the nose became more delicate – caramel, toffee, coconut, orchard fruits and lemon puff biscuits; hints of canvas and varnished wood. The palate became more perfumed – damson crumble, pineapple sprinkled with salt and chilli and an interesting ginger and orange combination.
A WAFER A WHILE
REGION
Highland
CASK TYPE
1st fill Moselle oak hogshead
AGE
14 years
SWEET, FRUITY & MELLOW
DATE DISTILLED
19 October 2004
CASK NO. 112.46
OUTTURN
368 bottles
ABV
56.7%
AUS ALLOCATION
24 bottles
$200.00
CIAL SPE NISH FI
6
As the sun warmed our skin we drifted away to the smell of 1980's suntan lotion and salty sea air. Oil and buttery notes combined with creamy strawberry yoghurt, that chilled down to multiple scoops of vanilla ice cream precariously perched on a crunchy caramel wafer. Confected fruit passed by as bubble gum merged with sticky fruit pastries, and joined the malty sweetness of breakfast cereal. Milk chocolate and praline delivered us to a palate of deliberate funk as fermenting fruit wandered helplessly towards scrumpy cider. The fruit matured into cool white wine loaded with ripe banana and mango flavours. Twelve years matured in an exbourbon hogshead before transfer to a French oak hogshead.
HAPPY, HEARTWARMING AND HYPNOTIC SPICY & SWEET CASK NO. 107.18
$150.00
REGION
Speyside
CASK TYPE
1st fill bourbon barrel
AGE
7 years
DATE DISTILLED
15 August 2011
OUTTURN
221 bottles
ABV
55.9%
AUS ALLOCATION
18 bottles
The nose transported us to a happy family kitchen on baking day, full of enticing smells – pink wafers, Empire biscuits, meringues, spun sugar, vanilla and raisins. The palate was sweet and intense, winning us over with its heart-warming personality – golden syrup, brandy snaps and chocolate truffles, peach schnapps and raspberry Ruffle bars (raspberry, dark chocolate and coconut). The reduced nose was attractive, even slightly soporific or hypnotic, with melon, bubble-gum and fruit gums, banana split and custard-filled donuts. The palate now majored on pear, lychee and star-fruit, with fruit salad chews and Haribos and the finish contained tonguetingling ginger and pepper.
DANCING A DUET
REGION
Highland
CASK TYPE
HC New oak hogshead
AGE
10 years
SPICY & DRY
DATE DISTILLED
29 September 2008
CASK NO. 59.57
OUTTURN
320 bottles
ABV
55.1%
AUS ALLOCATION
12 bottles
$185.00
SPE FIN CIAL ISH
Rich, aromatic, luscious and fragrant were only a few of the adjectives being tossed around the room followed swiftly by descriptors of walnut and hazelnut oil, polished antique oak furniture, fig blackberry jam and spicy caramel shortbread. The taste was that of ginger chocolate cookies and balsamicglazed carrots. With water very ‘liqueur-like’ aromas of Galliano and Chambord were followed by dark chocolate and Tia Maria parfait but now with a medium dry finish of wild herbs such as anise, juniper, rosemary and myrtle. After nine years in an ex-bourbon hogshead we transferred this whisky into a heavy charred new oak hogshead. 7
THERE WILL BE BLOOD ORANGE
REGION
Speyside
CASK TYPE
2nd fill French oak barrique
AGE
14 years
DEEP, RICH & DRIED FRUITS
DATE DISTILLED
25 August 2004
CASK NO. 41.121
OUTTURN
247 bottles
ABV
58.9%
AUS ALLOCATION
12 bottles
$215.00
SPE FIN CIAL ISH
A deep, rosy colour is suitably followed by aromas of rosewater, strawberry jam, Turkish delight, retsina pine wine, molten bubblegum, chocolate orange, spiced fig jam, prune eau de vie and a big note of blood orange. With a splash of water there’s hessian, milk chocolate, old wine cellars, boal madeira, vanilla sponge, coconut creme brulee, creme caramel, buttermints, pear liqueur and praline. The palate opens on cough medicine, raspberry liqueur, gin and tonic sorbet, pecan pie, tutti frutti, herbal ointments, pastis, liquorice, key lime pie and posh custard. With reduction there’s dark fruit-studded muesli, toffee sauce, apple turnover, motor oil, old cracked leather, polished wood, mineral oil and marzipan. Matured for 12 years in bourbon hogshead before transfer to a medium charred, fine grained 2nd fill French oak barrique.
REGION
Lowland
SOOTHING THE MIND
CASK TYPE
1st fill Oloroso hogshead
AGE
37 years
DATE DISTILLED
03 December 1980
DEEP, RICH & DRIED FRUITS
OUTTURN
173 bottles
CASK NO. G6.8
ABV
48.4%
AUS ALLOCATION
12 bottles
$599.00
M MIU PRE LEASE RE L CIA SPE NISH FI
8
Fragrant, perfumed tropical wood notes like Malaysian agarwood incense sticks combined with ripe tropical fruits as well as burnt oranges and lemon tart made this a real fascinating nose. The taste was just like a glass of well-aged Sauternes or Tokay wine or indeed a Brandy de Jerez Solera Gran Reserva. If you so wish add the tiniest drop of water and the aroma becomes a little ashy, rum and raisin fudge with some antique wood polish and to taste a little more oily and resinous with hints of candied orange, oak and hazelnuts. After thirty five years in an ex-bourbon hogshead we transferred this whisky into a 1st fill Oloroso hogshead.
A PREMIUM PIECE OF HISTORY Think about grain whisky for a moment... You might be thinking tired old casks maturing whisky intended for cheap blends as ‘filler’. You might be thinking “it’s not as complex as malt whisky” or “it’s a cheap alternative” or similar. In many cases, you might be right. In others, like cask G6.8 Soothing the mind, you’d be way off the mark. Euan Campbell from our whisky team in the UK picked out cask G6.8 a few years ago, thought it was something special, and wondered what could happen if it had some extra-maturation in a 1st-fill Oloroso hogshead. And what happens when you put grain whisky from a demolished distillery into some seriously quality wood?
YOU GET THIS PREMIUM RELEASE. A 37 year old, single cask, panel-approved, full-flavoured whisky. Complex old fruits, aged Sauternes and Tokay, rum and raisin chocolate and almost a little resinous. A piece of distilling history from a bygone era of Scotch whisky that was never intended for blenders, and is thankfully presented here in premium rich sherry wood for something different and indulgent this summer.
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10
CEDAR BIGGER PICTURE
REGION
Speyside
CASK TYPE
Refill bourbon hogshead
AGE
15 years
LIGHT & DELICATE
DATE DISTILLED
02 March 2004
CASK NO. 9.168
OUTTURN
272 bottles
ABV
57.1%
AUS ALLOCATION
24 bottles
$215.00
Aromas arrived with a thick frame of cedar wood that echoed elements of eucalyptus with a fresh and lively spirit. Peering through the frame we discovered a scene of dried flowers and brandy snaps as sweeter notes of white chocolate, caramel and custard came into focus. The palate reflected elements of raspberry jam but quickly became drier as fennel seeds, lemon and chilli came to the fore. Suggestions of burnt orange skin encouraged pancakes with bacon to merge into sweet malted barley. With water came cranberry juice and limes with crunchy green leaves. Sweetness wafted around like pink wafers but became bound by forest logs, green peppercorns and a bitter coffee finish.
CREAM OF THE CROP
REGION
Speyside
CASK TYPE
1st fill bourbon barrel
AGE
8 years
JUICY, OAK & VANILLA
DATE DISTILLED
22 October 2010
OUTTURN
247 bottles
ABV
63.0%
AUS ALLOCATION
18 bottles
CASK NO. 113.22
$155.00
A perfumed bouquet coupled flowers gardens rich in roses with creamy vanilla and toffee as ripe apples fell from orchard trees. A foamy lava of shampoo blew in the breeze like pink candyfloss whilst the palate brought a tingle of fresh chillies and citrus. Heavy oak created fantastically chewy textures as caramel biscuits enhanced the malty notes of crunchy kiln dried barley. A few drops of water encouraged sandalwood and dried pinecones to tumble alongside freshly harvested grains before fruity notes combined lemon and mango with lavender soap. The palate had become creamier, abundant with vanilla and custard cream biscuits on a bed of oak shavings. Boiled brown rice then accompanied oat cakes as the finish continued into herbal realms. 11
THE MARRIAGE OF CANDY AND SANDY OILY & COASTAL CASK NO. 10.177
$195.00
REGION
Islay
CASK TYPE
Refill bourbon hogshead
AGE
10 years
DATE DISTILLED
22 October 2008
OUTTURN
230 bottles
ABV
62.8%
AUS ALLOCATION
18 bottles
Delicate notes of spring flowers paved the way with spearmint freshness towards sticky candyfloss and Danish pastries with custard. From there a sweet and savoury duality commenced as salted popcorn and roast chicken on a sandy beach jostled with pancakes with lemon and strawberries. Subtle spices brought rye bread with pink peppercorns and sugar coated fennel seeds whilst delightfully oily textures layered brazil nuts with asparagus fried in butter. Water brought forward more salty and citrusy notes followed by poppy seed coated bread. Then back came the sweetness as white chocolate fused with Black Forest gateau. Finally we found thin slices of parma ham wrapped around cereal bars and a touch of liquorice stick to finish.
FARM SALAD LIGHTLY PEATED CASK NO. 66.133
$199.00
REGION
Highland
CASK TYPE
Refill bourbon hogshead
AGE
12 years
DATE DISTILLED
06 March 2006
OUTTURN
278 bottles
ABV
57.6%
AUS ALLOCATION
36 bottles
The panel found soot, wood char and watercress at first nosing. Along with clay ovens, smoked earth and rather typical melee of oils, waxes, herbs, lemon peel and hay loft. Water brought out lemon balm, gorse bush, crushed ivy, fabric, coal tar soap and sheep’s wool. A lick of burning heather in the background. It arrives in the mouth with a glistening frying bacon quality. Then notes of grilled artichoke, lemongrass, barley sugar and hay. Some sweet peats, salted peanuts and a mineralic, riesling edge. Dilution revealed a flintier side with white fruits, citrus, flowers, hessian, farmyard qualities and green pepper. 12
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14
PAPAYA THE SAILOR MAN LIGHTLY PEATED CASK NO. 93.102
$199.00
REGION
Campbeltown
CASK TYPE
1st fill bourbon barrel
AGE
11 years
DATE DISTILLED
19 June 2007
OUTTURN
208 bottles
ABV
57.8%
AUS ALLOCATION
24 bottles
Aromas began with a sweet intensity that combined peated banoffee pie with sugar-coated fennel seeds. A distinct nuttiness transpired that formed into coconut husk on a beach, surrounded by rock pools and dried seaweed. The fruitiness of plums and peaches came rolled in coal dust but introduced a softer floral character like potpourri. Delicious smoked duck on the palate with herbal hues and sea buckthorn that cut through the oils. Mango and papaya emerged in a medicinal smog that settled on carrot juice with ginger and a sprinkling of rock salt. The finish was backed by a firm wedge of tree bark married with an opulent dark chocolate bitterness.
ACME GHOST REPELLENT
REGION
Highland
CASK TYPE
Re-charred hogshead
AGE
8 years
PEATED
DATE DISTILLED
25 November 2010
CASK NO. 16.38
OUTTURN
315 bottles
ABV
59.3%
AUS ALLOCATION
36 bottles
$165.00
Pure farmyard! All smouldering wood ash, strap leather, old hay loft, tractor engines and mutton heavy stovies. Some burnt orange peel, burning newspaper and flint smoke. Water brings out coal tar soap, brake fluid, mead and hessian. Hints of antiseptic, chicken soup, mustard oil and burnt toast. The arrival in the mouth is all on earthy peat oils, lemon jam, biltong, game meats, pine cones, dried banana chips, camphor and lanolin. A splash of water gives jasmine tea, caraway, incense, ginger beer, heavy eucalyptus oils, smoky bacon, salted liquorice, butterscotch and paraffin wax. A wee beast! 15
SPECIAL ANNOUNCEMENT
ALEX MOORES JOINS THE TEAM!
In an announcement that will come as no surprise to many, long-term SMWS member and global whisky adventurer Alex Moores is officially joining the team as State Manager, Victoria! Already hugely well-versed in everything that makes the Society so wonderful, and already a host of some of our events, it’s a natural progression to State Manager looking after members in Melbourne and greater Victoria and growing our experiences for all. We’d also like to take a moment to extend a special thanks to Owen Smythe who is handing the reins over after many years as State Manager and we’ll certainly still catch him around the traps into the new year. Expect to see Alex and your National Ambassador hosting together soon! 16
NEW DECADE DRAMS
Happy New Year! The big 2020. The start of a new decade. When phrased like that, it makes me instantly think about what people will remember the 2010’s for. They’re gone now, so what made them memorable on either a global scale, community scale, or indeed for you?
W
e often like to look back at past decades with rose-tinted glasses of ‘better times’ or ‘strange times’ I think, but it’s hard to place yourself in that decade and really know what it was like. Which then reminds me that some people are able to ‘discover’ the rate of progress or differences in time more than others, just like how some casks age at different rates and different reactions to spirit in the wood change how a whisky tastes, and sometimes that takes a few short years, sometimes it takes a few long decades. This sounds all a bit existential, and I’m painfully aware of that, but I’m still thinking about a recent livestream I did on the Society’s Instagram back in early December about matching personality to whisky, or vice versa, and how your palate changes over time. Do you think your palate will change in this decade? As well as mood, do you ever pick your dramming choice based on your personality, and has that changed over time, at least that you can notice? These are all very deep questions that might not have any
steadfast answers, but even just delving into how personality, time, and changes to any of those things can move faster than you realise, and what you like in a dram changes, as well as factoring in the smaller time-scales of dram enjoyment. Back to reality however, and I know I’ve certainly said this before, and almost certainly in previous January Outturns, BUT, I’m super excited for what 2020 will bring. This promises to be a spectacular year for the SMWS, and as you delve into some summery casks enclosed within, I hope you all had a relaxing Christmas surrounded by friends and/or family, and that you’re also hitting the ground running along with us. Slainté!
CO WITHNNECT MATT bail ey@ sm
@sm ws.com ws_ . mat au t
Matt Bailey ~ SMWS National Ambassador 17
THE M NOGRAM TO CONNECT US ALL We’ve often said that some things change, yet some things stay the same. While we’re continuing to bottle only the most rigorously panel-approved single cask, cask strength, full-flavoured drams on earth, you’re going to start seeing some subtle visual changes to our iconic green bottles. Over the years we’ve seen small updates to our iconic bottle logo, the very one that adorns the header of this Outturn, but over the next few months you’re going to start seeing the adoption of our new monogram. A sense of connection to our history with the Vaults, an evolution of our identity, and the same great and ever-improving single cask whisky bottled within. So what you previously saw on our single cask spirits range will soon adorn all of our lovely whiskies, along with a minor refresh to our front labels to add even more transparency to the full maturation process along the way. Happy dramming! The SMWS Australia Team
AN EVOLUTION OF OUR IDENTITY 2020
2017
2009
1998
1990
1983 18
EVENTS SYDNEY
SUMMER WHISKY DESSERTS
RABBIE BURNS SUPPER! Haggis, neeps and tatties – and raising a glass to Robbie Burns!
Pastries, Ice Cream, Whisky and Fun! Let’s kick 2020 into gear with fresh casks, new venue, and summery tastes.
WEDNESDAY 22 JANUARY, 6.30 FOR 7.00PM
SATURDAY 8 FEBRUARY, 3.00PM
Royal Automobile Club 89 Macquarie Street, Sydney
Hotel CBD 75 York St Sydney
Host: Matt Bailey, National Ambassador
Host: Matt Bailey, National Ambassador
MELBOURNE
BRISBANE
SPECIAL OUTTURN PREVIEW
CHEESEMONGER WHISKY PAIRINGS
A sampling of the Feb Outturn along with some surprises along the way.
Whisky & Cheese works so well, especially when specially prepared by a local cheesemonger.
THURSDAY 6 FEBRUARY, 6:30PM
WEDNESDAY 12 FEBRUARY, 6.30 FOR 7.00PM
Melbourne Whisky Room, Whisky & Alement 270 Russell St, Melbourne
Heritage Room, Blackbird Restauarant, Riverside Centre, 123 Eagle St, Brisbane Host: Scott Mansfield, QLD Manager
Hosts: Matt Bailey & Alex Moores
WOLLONGONG
ADELAIDE
SUMMER WHISKY DRAMS
CHEESE & WHISKY PAIRINGS
Let’s kick off 2020 back at our ancestral home with new cask releases, summery tastes and a delicious full supper.
Delicious cheeses, new single casks, flavour pairings like no other. All welcome.
FRIDAY 13 MARCH, 6.00 FOR 6.30PM Novotel Northbeach Hotel 2-14 Cliff Rd, North Wollongong Host: Fred Apolloni, Wollongong Manager
FRIDAY 13 MARCH, 6.00 FOR 6:30PM Rob Roy Hotel 106 Halifax St, Adelaide Host: Jenny & Alan Forrest
PERTH & CANBERRA
Our next Perth and Canberra event listings will be online soon.
TO BOOK IN FOR AN EVENT, PLEASE VISIT OUR WEBSITE OR CONTACT OUR OFFICE.
SMWS.COM.AU/EVENTS
19
SMWS.COM.AU
02 9974 3046 Mon-Fri 9.00am - 5.00pm AEDT
@SMWS_AUSTRALIA
AUSTRALIANSMWS
SMWS_AUS
Society whiskies are offered and sold through The Wine Empire Pty Ltd, Liquor Licence LIQP770010175.