BOTTLINGS
Cask
Brimming with fruity booty
Cask No 149.7
A coal scuttle of jam and treacle
Cask No 4.329
Kaleidosmoke
Cask No 4.321
Knitting with peat
Cask No 4.307
A siren in the haar
Cask No 4.316
Not a genuine ‘philosophical’ paradox
Cask No 4.304
A proper BBQ dram
Cask No 4.300
A horned beast
Cask No 4.333
Cask No B5.7
Speculoos cookie butter ice cream
Cask No B7.12
Foraging fruits of the forest!
Cask No CW1.5
Cinnamon sins
Cask No CW2.3
Buttery baked corn on the cob
Cask No 72.109
Orchestral manoeuvres in the cask
Cask No 68.91
Andalusia in a glass
Cask No 149.4
FESTIVAL TIME IT'S
BY MATT BAILEY
The whisky festivals around Scotland are back and booming. A celebration of the regions, the people, the distilleries, the music, and the amazing amber liquid that pours forth.
When talking about regionality in Scotch whisky, it can sometimes seem a bit redundant. In fact, each passing year the regions become less and less relevant to the wider discussion of whisky.
To really examine this, one should ask what the role of the Scotch whisky regions are to the consumers of great Scotch whisky. First up, it’s worth acknowledging that ‘regionality’ in Scotch whisky is fairly unique to whisky. No one really talks about Irish whiskey in regions, and you don’t ever hear of people preferencing Northern Irish over Cork or Southern spirit. That would be odd. Same with American whisk(e)y: yes, you occasionally hear people say they “prefer Tennessee over Kentucky” or vice versa, but rarely do you hear about actual regionality in America when it comes to spirit. Australia is currently giving it a red hot go with a differentiation between Tasmanian whisky and Australian whisky (don’t call Tassie whisky Australian!) But in reality, it’s not really differentiated enough, nor distinctive enough to really draw that line just yet.
But in Scotch whisky, we’ve had a long attachment to Speyside, Highlands, Lowlands, Campbeltown, and Islay. And no, “Islands” is not a formal region, even if some like to pretend. But… we’ve attached these regions originally to differentiate the stylistic differences in spirit character coming out of them. Much like wine, Cognac, Armagnac, and other brandies use regularly, regions are hooks for us to initially understand style and flavour. Just like how if you’re a wine drinker you’ll enjoy and understand the differences between say a pinot from Mornington vs a Syrah from Napa Valley. So, this either assigns a level of agricultural complexity to create this, or we purely still use it out of habit?
"TO REALLY EXAMINE THIS, ONE SHOULD ASK WHAT THE ROLE OF THE SCOTCH WHISKY REGIONS ARE TO THE CONSUMERS OF GREAT SCOTCH WHISKY."
A study about colour bias in wine sticks out to me in particular: In 2001, researchers from the University of Bordeaux asked 54 undergraduate oenology students to test two glasses of wine: one red, one white.
The participants described the red as "jammy" and commented on its crushed red fruit. The participants failed to recognise that both wines were from the same bottle. How useful is regionality here, let alone red or white wine differentiation? There’s also an assumption that whisky is somewhat less earth-borne than wine, which I would argue against, but it certainly does go through a bit more production usually. Even countries barely get a mention when talking about other spirits, let alone regions. Beyond picking a Russian, French or Australian vodka, we certainly don’t ever say “Well, I prefer South Australian quadruple-distilled vodka personally”. Why not? It’s (almost always) grain, it’s come from a farm, it’s been distilled… Where I think this all lands on the scales is somewhere between “regions
"WHAT I THINK THE DISCUSSION AROUND REGIONALITY IN SPIRITS MOSTLY MISSES, IS THE OTHER TANGENTS THAT MAKE THE PRODUCT, LIKE THE CASKS, PEOPLE, GRAIN ACCESS AND QUALITY, AND INTENDED STYLE."
might need some examining” or “in the end, who cares?”. What I think the discussion around regionality in spirits mostly misses, is the other tangents that make the product, like the casks, people, grain access and quality, and intended style. You can’t legally make Scotch whisky in Scotland that goes out of its way to not taste anything like Scotch whisky, but you can make heavily peated whisky in the lowlands and no one will get upset anymore. Perhaps the broader discussion around regionality should be about intention and stylistic benchmarks. Maybe more about barley strains and yeast selections. More about wood choices and geographical imprints…
Take a deep dive into this month’s Outturn for the regions of Scotch whisky that we have on offer for our massive festival issue as we head into the colder months of dramming. Each week we’ll release more festival spirit, from our Rare Releases of each region — stocks are strictly limited.
We also have a double virtual locked in: a 5x dram set with 30mls of each region represented, PLUS the mega 12x sample box with EVERY festival release included. Both are in quite short supply so don’t snooze on these.
We’re super pumped to bring the full festival spirit to Australia almost at the same time that the UK are celebrating these Fèis Ìle releases + more, so we hope to see you at one of our events around the country this month, and/or in our virtual events!
Cheers.
Matt Bailey ~ Branch Director, SMWS Australia
PS keen eyes will spot I didn’t even use the word ‘terroir’ once in this article!
FESTIVAL BOTTLINGS
FESTIVAL BOTTLING RELEASE DATES
WEEK 1 WEEK 2 WEEK 3 WEEK 4
LOWLAND FESTIVAL + OTHER GOODIES SPEYSIDE FESTIVAL + 30YO BLENDED MALT
LAUNCHING
FRIDAY 7 JUNE
LAUNCHING FRIDAY 14 JUNE
HIGHLAND & CAMPBELTOWN FESTIVAL RELEASES ISLAY FESTIVAL
LAUNCHING FRIDAY 21 JUNE
LAUNCHING FRIDAY 28 JUNE
LOWLAND FESTIVAL WEEK 1
LAUNCHING FRIDAY 7 JUNE
One new release from Distillery 5 to showcase the region.
LOWLAND FESTIVAL
PHILOSOPHER'S STONE
JUICY, OAK & VANILLA
Rare Release Distillery 5 $345
FROM THE TEAM
The Lowlands are undergoing massive change. The sleepy forgotten region to many single malt nerds who usually only associate the region with young, light, floral malts is waking up and changing faster than any other. Last year we proved that with the RRG16 grain whisky, this year we’re showing it again with a distillery that’s always triple distilled, rarely aged this long, and showing insane sugary complexity to the spirit. Banana bourbon syrup, salted caramel lollies, pineapple rum and cloudy lemonade. An absolute masterclass is delightful tropical complexity to celebrate the changing face of the Lowlands!
REGION Lowland
CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrels
AGE 20 years
DATE DISTILLED 27 January 2003
OUTTURN 427 bottles
ABV 54.0%
AUS ALLOCATION 24 bottles
TASTING NOTES
The aroma transformed us instantly as we slowed down to enjoy banana bourbon syrup, salted caramel sauce, candied grapefruit peel and Indian guava cheese. On the palate, the guava was in a cocktail spiked with pineapple-infused rum and freshly squeezed lime juice: totally tropical. Following reduction, we enjoyed lemon and raspberry macarons with a glass of cloudy lemonade, while the taste was that of pudina coconut chutney and Tuareg mint tea prepared and served in a traditional ceremonial form. This dram gave us plenty to think about, with one Panel member even starting to philosophise over the meaning of life.
SPEYSIDE FESTIVAL WEEK 2
LAUNCHING FRIDAY 14 JUNE
Five huge releases to celebrate the biggest whisky-making region of them all.
SPEYSIDE FESTIVAL
WEEK 2 RELEASE FRIDAY 14 JUNE
HERITAGE PUDDINGS FOLLOW BREAKFAST
SPICY & SWEET
Rare Release Distillery 12 $185
FROM THE TEAM
After 10 years of combined maturation, this Spicy & Sweet profile Distillery 12 is one of the world’s most in-demand single malts right now. Matured in a mixture of ex-bourbon barrels and new oak barrels with a heavy toast & medium char treatment, this is saucy on the palate with notes of bacon-wrapped croissants, wheat beer, cinnamon toffee apples, pecan danish, and vanilla custard. A true icon distillery of Speyside now and truly celebrated as a single malt around the world.
REGION Speyside
CASK TYPE 2nd fill & new oak barrels - bourbon & HTMC
AGE 10 years
DATE DISTILLED 13 August 2013
OUTTURN 1208 bottles
ABV 58.4%
AUS ALLOCATION 72 bottles
TASTING NOTES
As chef presented us with honey nut cornflakes crowned with kumquat and molasses, we finished dipping baconwrapped croissants in wheat beer. On the palate, cinnamon toffee apples were served with farmhouse cider, a pecan danish and toasted coconut chips dipped in chocolate, all washed down with a glass of apple juice. Water offered a rustic nose, evocative of heritage puddings swimming in condensed milk and topped with chantilly cream. The palate by now was bread and butter pudding, orange zest, bay leaf, and vanilla and cinnamon custard.
SPEYSIDE FESTIVAL
WEEK 2 RELEASE FRIDAY 14 JUNE
FREEFORM JAZZ
SPICY & SWEET
Rare Release Distillery 85 $229
FROM THE TEAM
Who can remember the last time we saw a Distillery 85 on Outturn? Been far too long that’s for sure. Distillery 85 is a complicated beast. Smack bang in the middle of Speyside, the distillery runs a clear wort, a long fermentation time, and a slow distillation process which cleans out all the sulphur, but then they use worm tubs for condensing which adds weight and complexity back into the spirit. The casking team at SMWS matured this incredible new-make spirit in a combination of refill and 1st fill ex-bourbon and ex-sherry PX casks for 15 years. Notes of smoked figs, sweet mustard, orange segments, brisket, and walnut brioche buns. Toasty and terrific.
REGION Speyside
CASK TYPE Refill & 1st fill hogsheads - bourbon & Spanish oak Oloroso
AGE 15 years
DATE DISTILLED 13 December 2007
OUTTURN 853 bottles
ABV 57.5%
AUS ALLOCATION 48 bottles
TASTING NOTES
Using burnt twigs we stirred coal tar and beech woodsmoked nectarines into a medicinal potion of chamomile and syrup. Then to the mix came figs infused with hickory smoke, sweet mustard and orange segments, before in went barbecued brisket to simmer. Our attention now turned to sticky ginger cake and walnuts in brioche buns, fresh from the oven and finished with bramble jam, coffee beans and sprigs of thyme. The starting point for this small batch was two bourbon hogsheads of single malt Scotch whisky. One cask was transferred at 11 years old years old to a first fill American oak PX hogshead, and the other at 10 years old to a refill Spanish oak oloroso hogshead.
SPEYSIDE FESTIVAL
WEEK 2 RELEASE FRIDAY 14 JUNE
CROSS-ATLANTIC DESTINATIONS
SPICY & SWEET
Rare Release Distillery 39
$239
FROM THE TEAM
Distillery 39 is basically the textbook definition of a Speyside distillery: workhorse, almost exclusively for blends, and consistent quality spirit output. Located on the outskirts of Elgin, this massive site produces a lightstyle spirit that is desired by single malt nerds around the world. In this case, we have a Rare Release with acres of personality across the Atlantic. Notes of leather sandals, Jamaican ginger cake, dark brown sugar, gentle oak spice and more. A verified melange of exotic flavours and spices!
REGION Speyside
CASK TYPE Refill & 1st fill hogsheads - bourbon, Oloroso & PX
AGE 15 years
DATE DISTILLED 5 June 2008
OUTTURN 1,459 bottles
ABV 58.4%
AUS ALLOCATION 90 bottles
TASTING NOTES
A new pair of leather sandals baked in the heat of the sand on a sun-drenched beach in the Algarve. The whisp of wild fennel, limestone and thyme drifted in the air. The palate took us to the other side of the Atlantic, slicing into a Jamaican ginger cake topped with candied rose petals and toffee, raspberry jam and browned butter. Water pulled the toffee forward and introduced jasmine alongside dark brown sugar on the nose. A gentle oak spice underlined the palate now, complemented by blackcurrants and cocoa powder, chewy pretzels and crème pâtissière.
PREMIUMBOTTLING
SPEYSIDE FESTIVAL
WEEK 2 RELEASE FRIDAY 14 JUNE
THE WRITING BUREAU
HERESY BLENDED MALT
Speyside Batch 2024 $449
FROM THE TEAM
In a first for the SMWS, we’re proudly releasing a rather rare and delicious 30-year-old blended malt Scotch whisky to celebrate The Spirit of Speyside Whisky Festival 2024. No grain in sight, this is produced entirely using 30-year-old minimum casks of Speyside malt whisky and then bottled at a natural cask strength of 53.1% ABV. A true kaleidoscope of flavours swirl around this release with the youngest spirit being distilled in 1992 and then some… Expect notes of that old leather-topped writing desk, inkwells, blotting paper, honeydew melon, sherbet, and antique polished furniture. Don’t miss this special drop at our Fèis events and in our Speyside week at SMWS this month!
REGION Speyside
CASK TYPE 2nd fill bourbon barrels
AGE 30 years
DATE DISTILLED 3 December 1992
OUTTURN 736 bottles
ABV 53.1%
AUS ALLOCATION 60 bottles
TASTING NOTES
Our eyes danced across an old writing bureau, the shine from its green leather-topped desk being casually absorbed by the woodwork’s patina. On the nose, lime zest was woven into honeydew melon, joined by a puff of sherbet and the arrival of polished antique furniture. The palate was intense, full of waxy apples and pears, creamed coconut, quince paste and spiced witbier. A trickle of water pulled forward lime pastilles and elderflower as we walked into a botanical garden’s hothouse. It is here we write our best stanzas. The palate was custard tart, cubes of Turkish delight and pears.
SPEYSIDE FESTIVAL
WEEK 2 RELEASE FRIDAY 14 JUNE
TAWNY GARIBALDI
DEEP, RICH & DRIED FRUITS
Rare Release Distillery 48
$199
FROM THE TEAM
This is some rather special work from our expert tasting panel here. We love Distillery 48 already: worm tubs in production at this site bring out rich meaty notes and heavy distillate. Add to that, this has been matured for a minimum of 14 years in predominantly 1st-fill ex-American oak PX sherry casks and drinks like a liquid Garibaldi biscuit with warm currants oozing out the sides. Very deservedly in the Deep Rich & Dried Fruits profile and bottled at a natural cask strength of 49.8%, this is a rare treat to celebrate the diversity of Speyside.
REGION Speyside
CASK TYPE Refill & 1st fill hogsheads - bourbon & American oak PX
AGE 14 years
DATE DISTILLED 11 December 2008
OUTTURN 881 bottles
ABV 49.8%
AUS ALLOCATION 48 bottles
TASTING NOTES
We walked through the deep, dark forest, stepping over moss-covered tree roots and troupes of wood mushrooms. As the wind whispered through the dense evergreens, the aroma of steamed raisin pudding with a tawny port wine sauce emerged. We followed our noses and found a little gingerbread house with vanilla-based frosting, supported by tonka beans, cinnamon sticks and garibaldi biscuits. When we added a couple of drops of water the scent of chocolate-coated dark red cherries flirting with turrón ice cream and PX raisins dominated, while on the palate we enjoyed blueberries freshly picked from the woodland.
HIGHLAND FESTIVAL WEEK 3
LAUNCHING FRIDAY 21 JUNE
Three incredible releases to celebrate the people, places, music and distillate to come out of the Highlands of Scotland!
HIGHLAND
WEEK 3 RELEASE
RHUBARB AND FIG CRUMBLE
JUICY,
OAK & VANILLA
Rare Release Distillery 55 $169
FROM THE TEAM
Young and tremendously fun. Younger spirit has this marvellous way of really showing us the quality of the distillate, the barley sugars shining, and the depth of character with the cask meeting in the middle. For Highland Whisky Festival 2024, the Rhubarb and Fig Crumble comes to the rescue in our Juicy, Oak & Vanilla flavour profile. Matured in a mix of refill and new oak barrels, some of the casks used here were HTMC ‘Chinkapin’ oak, or Quercus muehlenbergii, which is a native North American varietal (which often imparts a sweeter profile, and perhaps where our panel perhaps got a lot of the fig pudding from!) These won’t last at this special price, so come celebrate the Highland festival with us this year.
REGION Highland
CASK TYPE Refill & new oak barrels - bourbon & HTMC Chinkapin
AGE 8 years
DATE DISTILLED 16 April 2015
OUTTURN 1405 bottles
ABV 58.2%
AUS ALLOCATION 72 bottles
TASTING NOTES
We imagined making delicious orange and kumquat marmalade as we cooked pork loin in cider and poured ourselves a pint of heather ale. The taste was floral, with a full malt body and plenty of herbal spice, as well as cracked black pepper on tinned fruit salad. Following reduction, the fruity aroma of ripe red apples arrived ahead of the scent of toasted almond flakes, rhubarb and fig crumble before a freshly brewed cup of rosehip and cranberry tea emerged. On the palate, the tea changed to a sweet hibiscus accompanied by milk chocolate and pear mille feuille, preceding churros in the finish.
HIGHLAND FESTIVAL
WEEK 3 RELEASE FRIDAY 21 JUNE
FURTIVE GHERKIN
OILY & COASTAL
Rare Release Distillery 149 $220
FROM THE TEAM
To showcase the new world of distilling in the Highlands, or in this case, the far far far Westerly mainland of Scotland, Distillery 149 finally makes the cut for the festival casks and we’re super proud to have one of the oldest releases ever produced from this distillery. Hailing from the far west Ardnamurchan coast, we can’t give a bigger hint than that as to where it’s from, but we can say that the spirit out of 149 is super old-school and reminds many of what whisky used to taste like. To taste their spirit at cask strength and 8 years old now is just tremendously exciting for the Highland festival this year. Matured exclusively in 1st-fill ex-bourbon barrels, Oily & Coastal profile, and just brilliant old-worldly spirit in the glass.
REGION Highland
CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrels
AGE 8 years
DATE DISTILLED 11 September 2015
OUTTURN 1764 bottles
ABV 62.4%
AUS ALLOCATION 90 bottles
TASTING NOTES
The Panel were immediately plunged into scrubbing an old barbecue grill. But on the side were lemons, buttery samphire, tangy pickles and chutney, and crackers with sea salt and black pepper. Reduction brought out delicate threads of smoke, distant beach bonfire embers, engine oil and kippers smashed on to toasted brioche. When neat, the palate was sweetly lemony and smoky, with fish pâté, pickled cornichons, charred fennel, jalapeños in brine and clam broth. Water added layers of texture and thickness in the mouth, while bringing out gristy porridge notes, and other elements including lavender honey and a gherkin lurking in a dirty martini.
HIGHLAND FESTIVAL
WEEK 3 RELEASE
FRIDAY 21 JUNE
TAKE ME TO THE CHIPPY
OILY & COASTAL
Rare Release Distillery 4
$499
FROM THE TEAM
For those who aren’t sure, ‘the Chippy’ is where you get the best fish & chips in Scotland. That greasy little corner F&C shop where the battered fish over the steel counter and large chips come in that iconic white paper or newspaper wrap. This release is the liquid embodiment of that flavour. Rich umami Orkney spirit, 20 years of age, and matured in a fascinating combination of ex-bourbon, ex-HTMC, and ex-Oloroso casks that previously held Islay whisky. This is a masterpiece in showcasing the cask strength potential of this distillery, and in Euan Campbell’s artful work in maturing and vatting casks together. Expect notes of chippy chips, salt and balsamic, crispy seaweed, chips and mussels, and a squeeze of lemon juice. Fantastic.
REGION Highland
CASK TYPE Refill hogsheads - bourbon, HTMC & Oloroso
AGE 20 years
DATE DISTILLED 26 May 2003
OUTTURN 924 bottles
ABV 54.7%
AUS ALLOCATION 48 bottles
TASTING NOTES
Secretly what we all yearn for as we dine black tie, the Panel were handed a burgeoning bag of chippy chips with salt and a dash of balsamic, topped with crispy seaweed and chilli jam. It’ll be all right on the night, after all. The palate of this paper-wrapped meal was full of seaweed, sunflower oil and salt-encrusted potato chips, with a side of mussels poached in 80 shilling ale and clementine juice. Water served to add a squeeze of lemon, buttered corn bread and a bowl of crab and wakame salad, leading the Panel to extol its taffy-like texture and full body.
PREMIUMBOTTLING
CAMPBELTOWN FESTIVAL WEEK 3
LAUNCHING FRIDAY 21 JUNE
Easily the smallest of the festivals around Scotland with just three distilleries currently operating (which may be as many as 5 by this time next year) but this year we still get to celebrate the Oily & Coastal delights from Distillery 93.
CAMPBELTOWN FESTIVAL
WEEK 3 RELEASE FRIDAY 21 JUNE
VIKING TOOTHPASTE
OILY & COASTAL
Rare Release Distillery 93 $185
FROM THE TEAM
Members are no strangers to Distillery 93 at the SMWS, not that it's anything to complain about: a steady stream of incredibly oily, coastal, machine parts, tractor engine, diesel room, greasy boat chain level of brilliance in each cask and glass. Campbeltown celebrates its festival just before Islay each year, with places like the coastline, The Ardshiel Hotel, and the distilleries getting in on the action. This rare release this year is matured exclusively in 1st fill ex-bourbon barrels and in our Oily & Coastal profile, and tastes like…well… Viking toothpaste! Celebrate one of the most exciting and coveted Scotch whisky regions with the SMWS in 2024!
REGION Campbeltown
CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrels
AGE 9 years
DATE DISTILLED 23 September 2014
OUTTURN 869 bottles
ABV 60.0%
AUS ALLOCATION 42 bottles
TASTING NOTES
Pork chops, smothered in olive oil, rosemary and smoked paprika, sizzled on the hot charcoal of a Viking burial ship alongside lemons and limes rolled in coal-dust muscle rub. The strong scent of thymol wafted from the Viking bathroom, mixing with minty toothpaste, oily cured meats and smoked duck. Adding a dash of water, the bonfire crackled as we steamed prawns and crabs with seaweed and a few rose petals. Our taste buds were now enlivened by the sweetness of marmalade-glazed ham, honey on toasted crumpets, and smoked pineapple dipped in rock salt. Fresh mussels bubbled in a pot, balancing the sweetness with the maritime herbal tones of oregano and Thai basil.
WEEK 4
ISLAY FESTIVAL
LAUNCHING
FRIDAY 28 JUNE
One week of the year, the population of Islay goes from 3,000 to over 10,000 as it attracts everyone to the year's Fèis Ìle, an Islay Festival of whisky, people, music, and good times. Each distillery gets its own day, and it’s a massive party not to miss. Read Andrew Derbidge’s article further into this issue about the full festival spirit on show.
ISLAY FESTIVAL
WEEK 4 RELEASE FRIDAY 28 JUNE
SMUGGLERS' BACON
HEAVILY PEATED
Rare Release Distillery
$239
FROM THE TEAM
Distillery 10 is going through something of a peat resurgence with whisky lovers around the world discovering how good both our single casks are, and how good their spirit is, especially when it shines in great sherry casks. This Heavily Peated ‘Staoisha’ Rare Release for Fèis Ìle 2024 is exclusive to members of the SMWS, and was matured in a combination of ex-PX and ex-bourbon casks, and drinks like a sherried glass of thick-cut bacon on Islay steroids. A marvellous main release for Fèis this year, celebrate the flavour and festivities of Islay with the SMWS!
REGION Islay
CASK TYPE Refill & 2nd fill hogsheads - bourbon & PX
AGE 10 years
DATE DISTILLED 24 October 2013
OUTTURN 1839 bottles ABV 58.4%
AUS ALLOCATION 90 bottles
TASTING NOTES
In the coastal cave the smugglers hid among a hoard of smoked peanut brittle, brunswick ham and sweet pimento peppers. Carefully opening a packet of bacon crisps to sprinkle over their pea and ham soup, they had to be careful not to make too much noise. They quietly cracked open a few smoked German beers and waited. After a drop of water they could spy the old canvas sails of the smuggling lugger, and smell the barrels of fennel, caraway and coriander seeds that were stashed on board. Reunited with their fellow bootleggers it was time to celebrate with smoked salami, Arbroath smokies and luscious goat’s cheese rolled in ash and apricots.
PREMIUMBOTTLING
FESTIVAL
WEEK 4 RELEASE
FRIDAY 28 JUNE
SM’OAK!
HEAVILY PEATED
Rare Release Distillery 29
$1,195
FROM THE TEAM
Good gracious. One of the rarest Fèis Ìle bottlings ever produced, we gladly welcome iconic Distillery 29 back to the roster for this year's festival. One of the three iconic Kildalton distilleries in the south of Islay, something truly magical happens when this spirit reaches an advanced age and still maintains a delightful old smoke, or “sm’oak” as we’ve gone with. A rich tarry iodine note carries through the distillate from 29, and after 25 years of age, this particular rare release has held up the flavour and smoke just gloriously. A combination of shave, toast, re-char Oloroso casks and ex-bourbon barrels have harmoniously brought this to life just wonderfully since being distilled in 1998.
REGION Islay
CASK TYPE Refill hogsheads & 1st fill barriques - bourbon & STR Oloroso
AGE 25 years
DATE DISTILLED 29 April 1998
OUTTURN 513 bottles
ABV 56.3%
AUS ALLOCATION 30 bottles
TASTING NOTES
Let’s start with the most obvious one, and here it was the prevailing feature – oak and smoke! Think tobacco, burnt toast, venison, peanuts, tofu, plums and coal tar. On the palate there was no respite: incredibly smoky, like beef jerky and Mexican ancho chillies dried over hickorysmoked wood, as well as a plate of smoked tofu pad thai. Additionally, that medicinal, maritime flavour was always lurking in the background. Following the addition of water we opened an old smoker barbecue pit, added smoked olive oil to barbecued langoustines and black cardamom to a hot dog. To taste, we tucked into a beef massaman curry and smoked mackerel maki rolls.
BUNDLE & SAVE!
We have some tremendous bundle offers online right now, specially curated by our branch director Matt Bailey. Take a journey through flavours or favourites this month with these bundles that are live right now. Stocks are limited.
MALT OF THE MONTH
TRIPLE OFFER
Three months of Malts of the Month, bundled up, with even a little bit off the already low price again when bundled up. Miss the recent malts of the months? Get back into it! Limit of one bundle per member
ALL ACROSS THE USA
Yeehaw! 4x diverse offerings from the USA that are sweet and desirable, especially bundled at this price.
Limit of one bundle per member
UMAMI MASTERS TRIO
When it needs to be all about texture and mouthfeel, and that magical umami malt note, look no further.
Limit of one bundle per member
INTRODUCTORY TASTING TRIO
Just starting out with the SMWS and not sure what to buy first, or perhaps want an easy restock for the bar at home? The constantly-evolving intro trio covers a diverse gamut of flavour profiles and is the best way to start with the Society into flavours, casks, and distilleries.
Limit of one bundle per member
SHEER PLEASURE
CASK No. 9.244
REGION Speyside
CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrel
AGE 18 years
DATE DISTILLED 11 September 2003
OUTTURN 189 bottles
ABV 56.8%
AUS ALLOCATION 36 bottles
Nosing this, we entered a country house (polished expensive furniture) fresh from an autumn walk in the woods and were served extravagant fruit salad, Tunnock’s caramel wafers and honeyed golden dessert wine – sheer spoiled pleasure. The palate combined honey and malted biscuits with strawberry sherbet and Love Hearts; then finished with lingering hints of eucalyptus and Fisherman’s Friends. On the reduced nose, pink custard now joined the exotic fruits and we discovered vanilla, coconut, fragrant wood, muesli and cinnamon sticks. The reduced palate delivered custard over jam roly poly, papaya and toasted coconut, finishing with sophisticated cinnamon and gentle ginger.
UNTO THINE OWN CASK BE TRUE
CASK No. 73.143
REGION Speyside
CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrel
AGE 11 years
DATE DISTILLED 25 March 2011
OUTTURN 215 bottles
ABV 62.7%
AUS ALLOCATION 30 bottles
The panel found a warm and inviting nose that expressed toasted coconut, cask char and a playful note of pocketwarmed softmints. We also noted coconut milk, gorse flower and a stodgy lump of oatmeal flapjack. Water brought out freshly varnished oak, satsumas, wintergreen and herbal teas. A kiss of menthol tobacco beneath! In the mouth we got mini milk ice lollies, dried pineapple slices and a touch of aniseed distillate. Beyond that some custard cream biscuits and a gentler note of chamomile tea. Water revealed cherry lip balm, sour apple liqueur, peppery watercress and things like sandalwood, muddled mint leaves and white pepper.
SWEET SUCCULENT SMOKE
OLD & DIGNIFIED
CASK No. 66.207
$345
REGION Highland
CASK TYPE 1st fill STR Oloroso barriques
AGE 23 years
DATE DISTILLED 23 October 1997
OUTTURN 238 bottles
ABV 48.2%
AUS ALLOCATION 36 bottles
Imagine driving in a Jaguar 1967 420 Compact Saloon, all windows down due the sun and the warmth, and the wind carried the whiff of sweet smoke from lobster meat and oranges being barbequed over a peat fire. We stopped and were invited to enjoy a plate of lobster meat which had undergone the miraculous Maillard reaction producing all these incredible deep flavours. After a drop of water, we could smell pan-crisped pancetta, beef au jus, smoked samphire and burned twiglets before we finished with bacon and maple syrup-drizzled pancakes. Following twenty-one years in an ex-bourbon hogshead, we transferred this whisky into a 1st fill shaved, toasted and re-charred Oloroso barrique.
A TASTY MORSEL
JUICY, OAK & VANILLA
CASK No. 149.4 $220
REGION Highland
CASK TYPE 1st fill Spanish oak Pedro Ximenez butt
AGE 6 years
DATE DISTILLED 9 Jul 2016
OUTTURN 576 bottles
ABV 61.6%
AUS ALLOCATION 84 bottles
A pleasant soft vanilla aroma greeted the Panel before the scent of freshly cut pine trees, gentle spices and a hint of sea salt took centre stage. On a freshly tarred boat we then bit into a spicy tuna salad nori wrap with quinoa and avocado before treating ourselves to a slice of strawberry toffee tart. Following reduction, we discovered baked new potatoes with a seaweed mayonnaise dip. This was served with a ‘sparkling galliano’ cocktail of grenadine juice, Galliano and champagne in a flute garnished with a cucumber slice. Creamy, salty and sweet on the palate with a floral fragrance, this was truly a tasty morsel.
JUICY, OAK & VANILLA
A SIREN IN THE HAAR
LIGHTLY PEATED
CASK No. 4.307 $190
REGION Highland
CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrel
AGE 11 years
DATE DISTILLED 18 February 2010
OUTTURN 248 bottles
ABV 62.5%
AUS ALLOCATION 48 bottles
A familiar but always beautiful aroma that we agreed now seems very specific to these stocks. Clear impressions of distant, aromatic seashores and coastlines. Along with gauze, lemon peel, lanolin, steel wool and oily tool box rags. Some flints and coal scuttles too. Water brought out fresh sandalwood, green olives, beach sand and hints of peppermint and pickling brine. The palate was surprisingly big: full of thick, briny and oily peat. Also soft medicines, herbal extracts and smoked olive oil. Reduction brought ginger wine, seawater, aniseed, pasta water and thick heathery peat. At 7 years of age we combined selected casks from this distillery. We then returned that single malt into a variety of different casks to develop further - this is one of those casks.
DARK ‘N’ STORMY IN JAMAICA
CASK No. B5.8
REGION Tennessee
CASK TYPE 1st fill charred barrel
AGE 6 years
DATE DISTILLED 22 March 2016
OUTTURN 188 bottles
ABV 63.2%
AUS ALLOCATION 42 bottles
A COAL SCUTTLE OF JAM AND TREACLE
CASK No. 149.7 $195
REDUCED FROM $230
REGION Highland
CASK TYPE 1st fill Spanish oak Oloroso butt
AGE 7 years
DATE DISTILLED 19 September 2015
OUTTURN 570 bottles
ABV 61.7%
AUS ALLOCATION 144 bottles
Thick and syrupy Pedro Ximénez sherry, infused with fragrant smoke, oozed over toasted peanuts and red berry fruits on a thick slab of sugary toffee. The palate was a compounded conglomerate of tinned fruit, blood oranges and dried herbs, swirling together in an old coal scuttle and topped with cinnamon, ginger and ash. Adding water only released further treacle, toffee and honey, still in a dusty old coal scuttle but now with dried flowers and lemon zest. The palate had somewhat softened, however, now embracing peat-smoked flapjacks, dark berry jam and roasted peaches with sprigs of thyme, and the light sweetness of mead on the finish.
We imagined walking among grapes which were being sun-dried on straw mats, a process known as “soleo” in Spain. On the palate, it was initially dry and spicy with sweetness in the background, like a fiery Jamaican dark ‘n’ stormy cocktail using navy-strength rum and strong ginger beer – invigorating! Following reduction we lit a bonfire on the beach, watching flying sparks and hearing the pop and crackle of the burning wood. To taste, salted caramel, stewed raisins, cherry pie and vanilla custard with a long finish of PX sherry over luxury spiced Belgian chocolate ice cream – simply divine.
PRONOUNCED “FAYSH EEL” (ALTHOUGH SOME LOCALS ADD AN EXTRA SYLLABLE AND PRONOUNCE IT “FAYSH EEL-EH”), IT’S GAELIC FOR ISLAY FESTIVAL, AND IT’S A CELEBRATION OF MUSIC AND WHISKY HELD EACH YEAR ON THE ISLE OF ISLAY.
FÈIS ÌSLE
THE MOTHER OF ALL WHISKY FESTIVALS
BY ANDREW DERBIDGE
If you’ve been immersing yourself in the Scotch whisky world for a while, you’ll likely have encountered two strange words: Fèis Ìsle. No, it’s not a small island or peninsula off the mythical coast of Fèis. Pronounced “faysh eel” (although some locals add an extra syllable and pronounce it “faysh eel-eh”), it’s Gaelic for Islay Festival, and it’s a celebration of music and whisky held each year on the Isle of Islay. Yes, Islay is that island off the west coast of Scotland that is renowned chiefly for where heavily peated, smoky whisky is made. Lagavulin, Laphroaig, and Ardbeg are perhaps the best-known distilleries/ brands, but that’s not to take anything away from the likes of Bowmore, Bunnahabhain, Bruichladdich (producer of Port Charlotte and Octomore), and Kilchoman. There’s also a new kid on the block with Ardnahoe these days and, of course, Port Ellen has just been resurrected after being a silent and largely demolished distillery for four decades.
The first Fèis Ìsle was held back in 1986, originally conceived and delivered to accent the Islay summer season for tourists. It was primarily a music and island culture festival that combined community events such as walks, history talks, slideshows, a Ceilidh or two (a Ceilidh is a traditional Scottish barn dance), and other such elements. Whisky played only an extremely small role in the early festivals (there was just a single tasting event held in the first year!), noting that 1986 was the peak of the industry’s horrific downturn and crash in the 1980s, and also that whisky tourism — as we know it today — was largely non-existent. (Well, at least on Scotland’s islands — in the mid-1980s, you could count on one hand the number of distilleries across all of Scotland that had a visitor centre).
The early years of the festival were all about the island and its community. The townships competed for Best Dressed Village; there were decorated floats, stalls,
small drama productions, workshops, concerts in the evenings, and even a Carnival Queen from four of the parishes!
The whisky aspect of the festival didn’t really kick in until 2000, and within just a few short years the event had already caught the attraction of the early online whisky appreciation groups and was gathering acclaim. So much so, that I
actually booked flights to attend Fèis Ìsle in 2004. (Although I tragically had to cancel after we experienced significant delays and construction dramas whilst building our home. I eventually got to my first Fèis Ìsle on my second visit to Islay in 2009).
In more recent years, the whisky component of the festival has settled into a familiar groove and format.
"EACH DISTILLERY “OPENS ITS DOORS” ON ITS ASSIGNED DAY, HOSTS SPECIAL CELEBRATIONS, TOURS, AND MUSIC PERFORMANCES ON ITS GROUNDS, HOLDS A LARGE-SCALE TASTING, AND ALSO RELEASES ITS ANNUAL FESTIVAL BOTTLING."
The festival now runs for nine days, and each of the distilleries has an open day in the programme. Each distillery “opens its doors” on its assigned day, hosts special celebrations, tours, and music performances on its grounds, holds a large-scale tasting, and also releases its annual Festival Bottling. Such bottlings often sell out on the day, and it was not uncommon to see lines with hundreds of hopeful people spilling out the door and into the street queuing up to grab their bottle at each of the distilleries. Unfortunately, with demand for the festival release bottlings so high, a more unscrupulous side of the whisky community took to “flipping” their bottles just a week or two later (sometimes even within 24 hours!) at heavily inflated prices. Thankfully, the distilleries have addressed this in recent years, now planning and catering more for the expected demand on the day, and also limiting the number of bottles that an individual can purchase.
It would not be unfair to say that the whisky component of the festival now dominates its theme and programme. Well, certainly when you look at the influx of visitors — the vast majority of people flocking to the island for the festival are indeed whisky enthusiasts, and the population of the island is said to triple during the Fèis. (That’s roughly 6,000 visitors to an island that generally has about 3,000 inhabitants). Not surprisingly, the available accommodation is at an absolute premium, and plenty of Fèis attendees resort to pitching a tent and camping for their time on the island. If you’re planning on attending Fèis Ìsle one year, it’s wise to lock in your accommodation and transport to the island first before securing anything else! While additional sailings are put on by the ferry company, you still hear horror stories of people struggling to actually get onto the island.
(It’s a two-hour ferry crossing so, no, swimming there is not an option!)
My Fèis experience in 2014 was particularly memorable. I’d flown direct into Glasgow from the 9:00pm flight out of Sydney (a 24-hour journey with a two-hour layover in Dubai), hired a car from the airport, drove straight to Kennacraig (roughly a three-hour drive), caught the 6:00pm ferry to Islay (a two-hour crossing), drove off the ferry just after 8:00pm, and headed straight to a small cottage outside of Bowmore where I met up with friend and SMWS International Ambassador,
John McCheyne. We then chatted and drammed into the night. I eventually collapsed around 1:00am, having had about six hours’ sleep in the preceding 52 hours! (Nine hours later at 10:00am, I was on the ferry for a day trip to Jura before returning to Islay that afternoon). Normally, such a journey and the jet lag would destroy you, but the scent of the peat-filled air around Bowmore is a tremendous restorative!
With the roaring success that the festival has become, it’s not surprising that other whisky regions have adopted and adapted their own versions of it;
"THERE’S CERTAINLY A SENSE OF KINSHIP AND CAMARADERIE IN THE AIR AS WHISKY LOVERS FROM AROUND THE GLOBE GATHER AND SHARE IN THEIR MUTUAL APPRECIATION OF MALT."
the Spirit of Speyside festival and the Campbeltown Malts Festival being two examples. Indeed, the Campbeltown Malts Festival is held on the days immediately preceding Fèis Ìsle, in order to capture the market, noting that Campbeltown is just a 40-minute drive south of where the ferry crossing to Islay departs from.
I’ve been fortunate enough to visit Islay six times now. In addition to my
Fèis visits, our SMWS Ultimate Whisky Tour to Scotland tours which I led were always timed to get to Islay in the week immediately after the Fèis, when the vibe was still strong. Needless to say, the mood and atmosphere on the island are special, and it’s a difficult experience to accurately describe in words. I once heard someone describe it as the whisky equivalent of Woodstock, which I wouldn’t fully agree with, but there’s certainly a sense of kinship and camaraderie in the air as whisky lovers from around the globe gather and share in their mutual appreciation of malt. Total strangers are suddenly your best friends, and there is a generosity of spirit (literally!) about the place. From the distillery days and tastings, to the gatherings, to the Ceilidhs, and to the musical performances, it is certainly a celebration and a magical time.
This year’s Fèis starts on the 24th of May and finishes on the 1st of June. If you’ve received this Outturn and you’re
reading it during these nine days, be sure to pour yourself a Society dram from Islay and join in the celebration. As a matter of fact, I’m sipping on a delightful dram of 10.241 as I type this, and will likely crack open an old 33 on June 1st, which is Ardbeg Day.
Cheers.
Andrew Derbidge ~ Chairman and NSW State Manager (since 2005!)
SOCIETY EXPERIENCES
Society whisky experiences are the most talked-about tastings in town. From traditional masterclasses to wild and wacky pairings, dinners, boilermakers, unusual matchings and more, there’s something for everyone.
Throughout June, we’ll be hosting the cream of the crop of festival casks and rare releases, so keep your eyes peeled on the events tab of our site, and see you at a Society experience soon!
SYDNEY FÈIS ÌLE SOLD OUT
MELBOURNE FÈIS ÌLE SOLD OUT
HOBART FÈIS ÌLE BOOK NOW
PERTH FÈIS ÌLE BOOK NOW
BRISBANE FÈIS ÌLE SOLD OUT
ADELAIDE FÈIS ÌLE BOOK NOW
WHAT DOES THE FÈIS ÌLE MEAN TO YOU?
We asked four whisky professionals what their experience and fun of Fèis Ìle meant to them…
Fèis has always been a special time on the whisky calendar for me, kind of like smoky Christmas. In fact, one of the more memorable drams from my early days in whisky was a Caol Ila Fèis Ìle release (don't ask me for details, I've no idea anymore haha) and this was before I really knew about the festival. In more recent times, I have to make a special mention of Kilchoman's 'Barley & Yeast Varietals' tasting pack, offering a tutored look at the individual influence of specific barley and yeast varietals on the whisky. That was the excitement of Fèis Ìle, waiting to see what weird and wonderful releases and events would come up, and often, getting a look behind the curtain of these excellent Islay distilleries..
DANIEL HUTCHINS-READ
ARCHIE ROSE
Experiencing “RR3 The finesse of a fragrant furnace" from Bowmore which was released in celebration of Fèis Ìle last year was something special, with the aromas and flavours evoking memories of being on the malting floor at Bowmore from visits gone by. One of the most impressive Bowmore expressions that I've encountered in recent times and definitely one to sip and savour! I love the way that Feis can bring people together, share a dram, and discover the island. Here’s to many more!
BRENDAN PILLAI
THE SINGLE CASK
Fèis Ile is such a special time for the island... The population of the island suddenly swells from a cozy countryside town to being chokers with whisky enthusiasts and aficionados. I was quite lucky on my trip that I managed to join up with some wonderful friends who have an independent bottling label, where we were able to secure a cute little cottage just a stone's throw from Bruichladdich distillery, with the most amazing view of the Rhinns.
We had a great schedule of hitting up all the distillery open days together during the afternoons in a little "dram van" and then heading back together to the cottage to have a barbecue, smoke some cigars, and drink the spoils of the day (the Open day bottlings — along with other bottles we brought with us!).
Another bonus is that it's during summer so the sun stayed up until about 10pm which made the barbeque last so much longer! I was blessed with amazingly good weather so the scenery looked like it could've been the Mediterranean coast.... I can't wait to go back!
My first real Fèis experience was in 2018 when I flew over and met so many wonderful people on the SMWS team at the time and got to attend lots of great tastings in May/ June. What I didn’t know at the time was that I’d be back in 2019 where I was graciously asked to actually HOST some of the biggest Fèis Ìle releases and festivities, in Islay! WHAT?! This was a huge honour to be able to host the actual Islay House tastings, meet so many members, play some Highland Games, and drink amazing whisky. Just look at the lineup I was working with below! Here’s to Fèis Ìle 2024 and here’s to amazing whisky bringing us all together!
MATT BAILEY SMWS
YAO WONG
THE ELYSIAN
THE ULTIMATE FÈIS ÌLE BOTTLING!
JOIN THE SMWS THIS FESTIVE MONTH AND WIN THE ULTIMATE FÈIS ÌLE BOTTLING!
To celebrate this month’s Fèis Ìle and all our festival rare releases from across Scotland, we’re running one of the biggest giveaways, EVER…
Join the SMWS on any day of the month in June, and you’ll automatically go in the draw to win one of three bottles of Rare Release 29 ‘Sm’oak’, a 25-year-old Islay rare release whisky, valued at $1,195! We’re giving away 3x of these incredibly rare whiskies to three lucky new members.
How to enter?
Simple: just join the world’s leading whisky club, the SMWS, off any membership type and you’re automatically in the draw to win.
INVITE A FRIEND AND KICK INTO MARMALADE OVERDRIVE!
To celebrate the upcoming Marmalade Overdrive release from the SMWS, we’re giving you an opportunity to crack this open, ahead of release, with a friend you invite to the Society in the month of June.
Invite a friend to join the Society, from any membership type, and we’ll send you a bottle of the upcoming Marmalade Overdrive bottling from the SMWS, worth $169. This special release has a unique Aussie backstory with a mixture of casks from Nebb Shiraz Barrels that we sent over to Scotland around 2017, which extra matured some 11yo Speyside whisky for another 3 years of slumber, then being released to members in August 2024.
You could be the first person in Australia to taste this special blended malt, aged for 14 years, and bottled at 50% ABV. As long as your friend joining the SMWS puts YOUR name in the referral box at checkout, we’ll send YOU the bottle!
This offer is strictly limited to the referrers of the first 20 new members who join in June.
This offer is strictly limited to current members of SMWS Australia who refer the first 20x new members joining the SMWS in June. Offer value of $169 is not redeemable for vouchers or cash. New member must not have been a member of the SMWS in the last 3 months to qualify. Referrer must be a current member of the SMWS. Limit of one bottle per Member. Please note: the referring member receives the bottle of Marmalade Overdrive (not the new member) but sharing is caring!
THURSDAY 20 JUNE @ 7PM AEST
The regions of Scotland through the festivals: 5 drams for 5 regions!
Our first virtual of the month is a special look at each of the five regions in Scotch whisky with a special pick from each of the region’s rare releases for this month. We’ll taste through drams from the Lowlands, Speyside, Highlands, Campbeltown, and Islay for this great primer into the festival casks, with special guests, to walk us through the regions. Limited production so first-in best-dressed. We'll also be giving away goodies and other prizes to those who jump in. Limit of one pack per Member
THE FULL FESTIVAL
TUESDAY 25 JUNE @ 7PM AEST
Yes, you read that right. Following the success of last year’s full-virtual tasting kit, we’re back with a vengeance! All 12 Festival ‘Rare Releases’ in one big virtual tasting kit with 30mls of each to go around — a proper serve of each. This includes every single festival cask for 2024 for you to taste ahead of grabbing a bottle this year, including the black labels, AND the 30-year-old Speyside blended malt! Very limited quantities of this special pack are available, so definitely firstin best-dressed again here.
Over $4,629 worth of whisky bottles in one set, to celebrate the regions and festivals of Scotland! Join us on Tuesday 25, 7pm AEST, for the premiere of the tasting video, or watch it at your own leisure later. Limit one per member.
RARE RELEASE 5 – PHILOSOPHER’S STONE
RARE RELEASE 39 – CROSS-ATLANTIC DESTINATIONS
RARE RELEASE 12 – HERITAGE PUDDINGS FOLLOW BREAKFAST
RARE RELEASE 4 – TAKE ME TO THE CHIPPY
RARE RELEASE 55 – RHUBARB AND FIG CRUMBLE
RARE RELEASE 85 – FREEFORM JAZZ
RARE RELEASE 48 – TAWNY GARIBALDI
RARE RELEASE SMALL BATCH – THE WRITING BUREAU
RARE RELEASE 93 – VIKING TOOTHPASTE
RARE RELEASE 149– FURTIVE GHERKIN
RARE RELEASE 10 – SMUGGLER’S BACON
RARE RELEASE 29 – SM’OAK
