Whisky & Chocolate: Friday 4 August
Issue 08, 2023
Indulge and explore in one of the best pairings you can with whisky: chocolate. August Outturn is all about celebrating the flavours and pairings of chocolate and whisky.
ONLY ON: SMWS.COM.AU
Matt
Basik-cally
Social media, across all mediums that it occupies, is a great way for brands and appreciators of such to connect up. A platform where groups form, interests converge, and people converse over recent whiskies, great events, and bars they’ve recently frequented.
I love this side of social media, and how it’s really taken off where ‘forums’ left off for this kind of discussion. I’m in a few of these groups, and a few I’m not in, but overall it’s a good chinwag online. There were, however, a couple of ‘vibes’ recently which really baffled me: Regular whisky punters posting photos of special releases from distilleries, both
“THAT’S ONE OF THE BEST THINGS ABOUT AN INDEPENDENT BOTTLER AND THE MANTRA OF NEVER BOTTLING THE SAME WHISKY TWICE. WE HAVE NO RULES TO THAT SIDE OF THE SMWS.”
local and abroad, complaining a bit that they weren’t really “special enough” or “too close to the house style” or similar. One comment about a new release from a notable Melbourne distillery stuck out from a punter saying a new release “…seemed to not really vary in taste that much. Don’t get me wrong it tastes great but I was hoping for something really different”. The founder of the distillery, who sometimes pipes up in these threads, did on this occasion and explained how being so close to house style was actually a compliment.
This got me thinking: how far can a distillery really stray from its ‘house style’ before either pleasing or upsetting its fan base? In this example, the buyer of this new ‘experimental’ release from this distillery was lamenting how this release wasn’t too far removed from their core range. The buyer was looking for something a bit more “wild” and adventurous
WE DON’T WORRY ABOUT BEING OUTSIDE OF THE ‘HOUSE STYLE’ OF THE CODES. LET THE TASTING NOTES AND FLAVOUR PROFILES DO THE TALKING, NOT THE DISTILLERY STYLE.
perhaps. Hypothetically, what about if that was instead a peated release from an ex-mezcal cask that was extra-aged in a Calvados ash barrique and the spirit run was much wider in the cuts? So far from the house style that it didn’t resemble their spirit at all? You’d almost definitely have people complaining it doesn’t taste enough like their core range…you see the dilemma here?
I saw a similar discussion taking place around a certain Islay distillery as well on social media the other day: the buyer’s remorse over a recent ‘committee release’ that didn’t feel ‘special enough’ to be worth the premium above the core range. “Burned again” the post would read, followed by “I’ll stick with their main range in future”. Maybe some of this is being led by harsher economic conditions at present and that expectations are so high from previous iterations, but I suspect it’s more just escalating premiumisation and brand expectations. There’s no easy line to tread here, but sometimes they do get it right!
The same dilemma exists in most brands: stay too close to the line and enthusiasts will deride it for being “same as last year’s model” and not inventive/innovative enough. Go too far outside your lane and you’ll face the “Wow that’s ugly, who would ever buy that?” or “this is nothing like product X, would not buy again”. Play it too safe and you’ll be derided, play it too risky and you’ll lose your fanbase, maybe?
Where am I going with this? I guess that’s one of the best things about an independent bottler and the mantra of never bottling the same whisky twice. We have no rules to that side of the SMWS. We stray so far from the “house style” of distilleries that we don’t really engage in that discussion. An unpeated 29? Sure! A peated 35? Yep! A peated column grain whisky? Uh, yes! The discussion should always be around flavour, enjoying single-cask moments with friends and shaping moments
through a shared appreciation for the greatest spirit on earth: whisky. We don’t worry about being outside of the ‘house style’ of the codes. Let the tasting notes and flavour profiles do the talking, not the distillery style.
This month is all about celebrating the pairings between chocolate and whisky, working again with our maestro of sweet pairings from BASIK, Krsna Rajalingam. Keep a keen eye out for events and, of course, the most popular virtual tasting of the year: our BASIK x SMWS collaboration with a full whisky & chocolate set in the comfort of your living room. I’ve had members tell me they are members for THIS set alone… say no more…
Cheers, Matt
COPITAS, SNIFTERS, XL5S, BRANDY BALLOONS, SMWS GLASSES, AND THE NOW-UBIQUITOUS GLENCAIRN GLASS…IF YOU WEREN’T ENJOYING YOUR DRAM OUT OF ONE OF THESE GLASSES, I WAS CONVINCED YOU WEREN’T ENJOYING YOUR DRAM!
Afew weeks ago, I had the pleasure (?) of reaching a socalled milestone birthday. The sort of milestone where I am now, officially, middle-aged. Of course, there are many signs and signals you’ve reached middle age long before you officially get there. Many of those signals are physical: You’re simply not as active, fast, agile, strong, flexible, and resilient as you used to be. Some of the signs are mental: Your patience and attention span are tested more frequently; your memory is less reliable; and you tend to be quickly dismissive of things you consider to be less important or relevant in your life. You also find yourself watching more cooking shows and being increasingly vocal about how much better the music of the 70s and 80s was than the nonsense served up today. For me personally, however, one of
the key signals of approaching middle age was more unusual: I occasionally found myself pouring my drams into a traditional tumbler glass. Oh, the irony.
If you’re wondering where the irony lies, it actually borders on hypocrisy. Why? Because I have long been one of the loudest and most passionate advocates for ensuring whisky is served in appropriate glassware, designed to facilitate appreciation of the spirit’s aroma. Copitas, snifters, XL5s, brandy balloons, SMWS glasses, and the now-ubiquitous Glencairn glass…if you weren’t enjoying your dram out of one of these glasses, I was convinced you weren’t enjoying your dram!
When I’m engaged by the corporate or private sectors to host and present a whisky tasting, the first thing I lock down — even before discussing the whiskies and the budget — is ensuring that appropriate glasses are supplied for the event. (It is, understandably, a challenging and confusing exercise trying to explain to someone that the traditional whisky tumbler is, in fact, the worst possible glass for a whisky tasting!) Indeed, one of the earliest articles I wrote for and contributed to another publication over 20 years ago — long before the arrival of the Glencairn — was all about the importance of glassware. And yet, here I am now, coming home at the end of a long day and occasionally splashing my whisky into a tumbler.
So, what’s changed? Well, in a sense, nothing. Don’t get me wrong: When it comes to whisky appreciation and, indeed, critical analysis and assessment of a whisky, there is no substitute. It’s essential that the whisky be served in a
glass that captures, concentrates, and delivers the whisky’s aroma, bouquet, vapours, and volatiles to your nose. A traditional tumbler will not and cannot cut it. In such matters of the spirit, I am a staunch fundamentalist. And yet somewhere, somehow, I have clearly mellowed. Hmmm...just like whisky, is that not what aging is all about?
On reflection, the traditional tumbler glass does have its merits. Heck, it’s even in the name: Traditional! It’s easy and comfortable to hold in the hand; it’s stable on the table and less likely to be knocked over; and — if you’re that way inclined — you can add ice to your drink and enjoy it on the rocks. The pragmatist in me even acknowledges it stands better when inverted in your dishwasher and won’t topple or collapse to one side, as Glencairn’s invariably do! Sure, the tumbler is terrible at allowing you to discern and pick apart a whisky’s nose…but then there are times when you’re less focussed or intent on undertaking such analysis. Particularly when you’re busy, distracted, or simply tired. Sometimes, you simply want to drink and not think.
The Society also hits a milestone birthday this year. However, unlike us mere mortals, The Society has done the opposite of mellowing over time. Quite the opposite, in fact. It’s ramped things up. It’s got busier and more active. Mind you, that shouldn’t come as a surprise. Life begins at forty, right?
It’s our 40th birthday, so let’s kick off the birthday celebrations with the official launch of our Maverick 12yo single malt! Every $30 ticket includes a $30 voucher for the new Maverick bottling on the night.
Friday 4 August, 6:30pm
No Vacancy Art Gallery, QV, Melbourne
Take a trip up the River Spey with the most in-depth exploration of the Speyside region, its style, casks, and wondrous spirit. Six unique single casks from the region, supper, and a presentation from our very own Chairman and Keeper of the Quaich, Andrew Derbidge, all included in this fun tour.
Friday 25 August, 6:30pm Hotel Richmond, Adelaide
Join us for a rare in-person Krsna night at the Hawthorn Arts Centre, surrounded by artwork, chocolate, and insane pairings. Places are strictly limited.
Saturday 19 August, 2pm. Hawthorn Arts Centre
Join us in-person with the master of the chocolate arts, Krsna Raj, and taste through the incredible process and parts of the pairings we’re arranging for August.
Date and Venue TBC
Distillery 85 does have a single malt presence, albeit a small one, but is usually reserved by its owners for the likes of the Singleton brand. Distillery 85 was for a long time the backbone of the ‘White Horse’ brand and has always been a ‘worm tub’ distillery, which is an old-school method of condensing which gives the spirit a heavier, nuttier, meatier character! Hugely desired as a malt by blenders for its heavy and fruity distillate, it’s uncommon to see independent bottlings of it in the wild, let alone from top-grade Spanish oak casks like this. Don’t miss this gem we’ve picked out for Malt of the Month!
DEEP, RICH & DRIED FRUITS
CASK No. 85.69
$225
REDUCED FROM $250
REGION
Speyside
CASK TYPE 1st fill Spanish oak Oloroso hogshead
AGE 15 years
DATE DISTILLED 5 July 2006
OUTTURN 208 bottles
ABV 57.2%
AUS ALLOCATION 54 bottles
The nose had a certain air of grandeur about it as we imagined sitting in an antique leather Chesterfield. Next to us on an oak side table, a teak hand carved bowl filled with spicy, dry roasted nuts and a voluminous wine glass filled with a Rioja Gran Reserva. After we added a couple of drops of water, we were served nutty Manchego cheese with a sweet tomato and chilli chutney before we finished with Morello cherries dipped in Armagnac and coated in rich dark chocolate. Following thirteen years in an ex-bourbon hogshead, we transferred this whisky into a 1st fill Spanish oak Oloroso hogshead.
It’s our 40th birthday as a club worldwide! 40 years since Pip Hills had a crazy idea of bottling single cask whisky for his ‘syndicate’ which became the SMWS. 40 years since he sipped something from Distillery 1 with a mate on a farm. 40 years since The Vaults transformed from being a blending house to being the home for members to visit and discover how good whisky and community can be.
As part of the birthday celebrations, we’re kicking off with our first and most notable explosion of an offering: our Maverick 12yo single malt.
Co-developed by our spirits team with our founder Pip Hills and his tick of approval, this is a special offering to share around with friends, members, and flavour lovers.
Join us in Melbourne for the official launch, or grab a bottle on Outturn day and share in the birthday celebrations with this special release.
$220
CASK TYPE 1st, 2nd & refill
hogsheads Spanish oak oloroso, Spanish oak PX & bourbon
AGE 12 years
DATE DISTILLED 21 June 2010
OUTTURN 2,098 bottles
ABV 50.0%
AUS ALLOCATION 180 bottles
The aromas of freshly waxed, natural marble floors, mosaics and terrazzo tiles were followed by a fruity scent from apricots, peaches and plums, before a cup of Assam tea and fig, apple and raisin bread pudding joined the party. On the palate, we found American-style blueberry and banana pancakes with lemon juice and maple syrup, as well as cardamom and orange-spiced rhubarb on top of fluffy French toast. Following dilution we discovered dark chocolate, marshmallows and a sherry mango trifle. To taste, a traditional ‘blood & sand’ cocktail, named after a 1922 film about a Spanish matador, using equal parts of Scotch, sweet vermouth, cherry liqueur and orange juice.
YOUNG & SPRITELY
CASK No. 79.6
$180
REGION Highland
CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrel
AGE 9 years
DATE DISTILLED 2 April 2012
OUTTURN 234 bottles
ABV 60.8%
AUS ALLOCATION 36 bottles
Immediately it was apparent that this was a firm, robustly malty and well-structured dram built around its base ingredients. Lots of naked, raw gristy barley, a seam of biscuity sweetness and touches of petrol and vapour rubs. Water added pollens, cigarette papers and menthol tobacco. A lovely cereal and medical balance. The initial palate was all on chalky medicines, limestone, gauze, mouthwash and crystallised ginger. Some waxy baking paper, brown bread and some green acidity providing freshness. Reduction unveils caraway, aniseed, toasted fennel and cough mixtures. Robust, fun and highly unusual highland whisky.
REGION Highland
RUM,
SWEET, FRUITY & MELLOW
CASK No. G15.18
$230
EXTRA MATURED
CASK TYPE Refill Trinidad Rum barrel
AGE 14 years
DATE DISTILLED 24 January 2008
OUTTURN 211 bottles
ABV 57.6%
AUS ALLOCATION 30 bottles
We were expecting something rather extreme given the rum cask, but instead we were greeted with a surprisingly gentle aroma of vanilla pods, sweet pipe tobacco, Frangelico liqueur, gorse flower, myrtle and coconut water with citrus peels. Reduction offered up barley sugars, tea tree oils, young sweet wines and pineapple cubes. Some mentholated esters finally betrayed the rum influence. The palate started out with creme de menthe, coffee liqueur and wee notes of bourbon biscuit and chocolate hobnob. Matured for 11 years in a bourbon barrel before transfer to a refill Trinidad rum barrel from an SMWS R13 cask!
REGION
SWEET, FRUITY & MELLOW
CASK No. 63.92
$249
Speyside
CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrel
AGE 19 years
DATE DISTILLED 9 May 2002
OUTTURN 178 bottles
ABV 54.2%
AUS ALLOCATION 36 bottles
A freshly baked soft, fluffy and slightly sweet slice of braided yeast bread (Hefezopf or challah) topped with sugar crystals and sliced nuts spread with butter – a light and tasty treat! On the palate a rich New York cheesecake which had a dreamy creamy flavour with a hint of lemon and vanilla wafer crumbs as the crust. Following reduction we enjoyed marshmallows, chocolate limes, cookie dough and melon balls as we drank a luscious Melontini cocktail – crema di melone, vodka, Amaretto liqueur and cream all shaken, strained into a Martini glass and then garnished with melon balls - living la dolce vita!
REGION
SWEET, FRUITY & MELLOW
CASK No. 5.99
$290
Lowland
CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrel
AGE 18 years
DATE DISTILLED 27 January 2003
OUTTURN 181 bottles
ABV 57.0%
AUS ALLOCATION 24 bottles
Walking through an exotic landscape where orange blossom and potpourri rain down over lilies, we were refreshed by a glass of banana beer, while watching the cooper toasting an oak cask. No banana beer on the palate – instead we found assorted chalky sweets, dried heather flowers, custard creams and jam donuts – just a hint of oaky tannins on the finish. With water, our magical landscape shifted to one of damp earth and watermelons below and coconuts, nectarines and peaches above. The palate was now a complex blend of orange oil, strawberry sherbets, chocolate shavings and chamomile tea. A complexity worth unravelling.
We’ve had a solid string of seriously impressive older (and younger) offerings from Distillery 12 lately. Most of them from ex-sherry casks that have slumbered away giving the spirit a rich and toffee note of Christmas cakes and raisins. Lovely stuff, but it’s very uncommon to see a 31yo matured entirely in an ex-bourbon cask from this marvellous distillate. Upon first nosing, it’s like a gentle potpourri of delicate flowers that have been spritzed with orange oil. Orange maple, cinnamon cookies, and wonderfully chewy marshmallows. A natural cask strength of 43.4% after 31 years, and only 112 bottles of this produced worldwide. A rare treat for August.
SWEET, FRUITY & MELLOW
CASK No. 12.64
$1,195
REGION
CASK TYPE 2nd fill bourbon barrel
AGE 31 years
DATE DISTILLED 7 May 1990
OUTTURN 112 bottles
ABV 43.4%
AUS ALLOCATION 18 bottles
We all got, in one way or another, the scent of orange; orange sherbet, orange grove, confit of orange filled with orange sorbet and boozy blood orange trifle next to maple syrup, candle wax and cinnamon coconut cookies. On the palate, thick, luscious, creamy and wonderfully chewy like chocolate-covered marshmallow kisses with a maraschino cherry on top as well as a Fish House Punch – orange pekoe tea, dark rum, cognac, peach brandy and lemon juice. With water we had a picture of rolling cigars in an old factory in Cuba as the newspaper was read to us while to taste, juicy and incredibly soft like honey orange macarons.
SPICY & DRY
CASK No. 41.146
$230
REGION Speyside
CASK TYPE 2nd fill Oloroso hogshead
AGE 15 years
DATE DISTILLED 9 March 2006
OUTTURN 241 bottles
ABV 59.5%
EXTRA MATURED
We imagined a wood carver unrolling a leather pouch with all the tools ready to start a new project. On the palate there was plenty of fragrant wood flavours combined with autumn harvest baked apples with raisins, walnuts and cinnamon. After the addition of water, the scent of freshly baked rye bread combined with conkers and conifer cones made for a sweetish, herbaceous bouquet. The taste was that of Turkish oil cake once again with walnuts and raisins as well as pogaca a type of bread which is baked in ashes before being finished in the oven. Following thirteen years in an ex-bourbon hogshead, we transferred this whisky into a 2nd fill Oloroso hogshead.
REGION
SPICY & SWEET
CASK No. 48.147
$160
Speyside
CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrel
AGE 9 years
DATE DISTILLED 12 November 2012
OUTTURN 233 bottles
ABV 60.6%
AUS ALLOCATION 24 bottles
Nettle and blackcurrant leaf on the nose shifts to bubblegum and new tennis balls, then dried apricots, tobacco and oak. The palate finds chalky sweets and spearmint gum, then produces toffee bonbons and fly cemeteries, followed by a spicy warmth of ginger and white pepper on the finish. The reduced nose seems to deepen towards hessian bung cloths and dunnage warehouses, but with the beguiling sweetness of heather honey, rum and raisin fudge, coconut biscuits and treacle toffee. The palate now becomes a mouthwatering mixture of juicy peaches and pineapples, toffee, custard tarts and Armagnac with an autumnal herbal, minty finish.
REGION
SPICY & SWEET
CASK No. 135.44
$175
Highland
CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrel
AGE 10 years
DATE DISTILLED 5 May 2011
OUTTURN 230 bottles
ABV 60.1%
AUS ALLOCATION 24 bottles
A distinctly firm and rich aroma that invoked to us chopped hazelnuts, lemon curd, eucalyptus resins, freshly rolled linoleum, hand cream and white marshmallow. Some water brought nectarine, salted caramel, linseed oil, pinewood and herbal teas. Complex, characterful and unusual. The neat palate was oily and sweet initially. Some syrupy limoncello vibes along with fingerlimes, fruity muesli, dried apricot and pineapple jam. Water brought marzipan, lemon cough drops, olive oil and melted butter on a croissant.
There’s a serious buzz in the American single malt world at the moment, and a lot of it is being led by Distillery 140. Those who tasted the recent 140.4 Throws you curve balls will know what I’m talking about here, but this .6 is again on that level. A Texan single malt that tastes like thick rhubarb jam on toast, caramel pudding, sweet cigar ash, and pine needles in an American sauna. This cask was already well-enjoyed by Melbourne members at a recent Independence Day tasting, why let them have all the fun? Do it. This is a game-changer.
REGION
CASK
AGE
DATE DISTILLED 8 April 16
OUTTURN 144 bottles
ABV 62.1%
AUS ALLOCATION 36 bottles
We had freshly baked, still warm from the oven, tahini beetroot bread with dark cherry jam together with rhubarb crumble and custard. On the palate neat, dry charred oak at first before turning sweeter like hot spicy chilli chocolate flakes on a vanilla caramel pudding with a sweet cigar tobacco finish. A drop of water and we were enjoying an ‘Aufguss experience’ in a brand new Finnish-style sauna pouring water infused with pine needle essential oil over the hot stones. To taste, juicy, fruity orange cake but now with a very pleasant dry wood spice and a hint of leather – very moreish!
JUICY, OAK & VANILLA
CASK No. 68.85
$210
JUICY, OAK & VANILLA
CASK No. 63.88
$225
REGION Highland
CASK TYPE 2nd fill hogshead - heavy char #4
AGE 14 years
DATE DISTILLED 24 August 2007
OUTTURN 282 bottles
ABV 57.7%
AUS ALLOCATION 30 bottles
A fresh and vibrant aroma greeted the panel with tropical fruits such as mango, coconut and pineapple being joined by the warm scent of banana bread and cinnamon raisin rolls. On the palate, a stack of banana pancakes with lemon juice, maple syrup and chocolate spread. After the addition of water, the nose moved on to fluffy scones bursting with sultanas and topped by either peach and apricot jam or marmalade. Our scones were served with a rosehip, nettle & mint tea sweetened with stevia. Following eleven years in an ex-bourbon hogshead, we transferred this whisky into a 2nd fill heavy charred hogshead.
REGION Speyside
CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrel
AGE 19 years
DATE DISTILLED 9 May 2002
OUTTURN 182 bottles
ABV 52.3%
AUS ALLOCATION 42 bottles
Some panel members found themselves on the beach with coconut scented sun cream, melted ice cream, strawberry fondant creams and peppermint creams whereas others moved straight on to the terrace overlooking the sea to enjoy a glass of perfectly chilled Sauternes’ wine with almond and lemon tarts as well as meringue. A drop of water and the aroma became even more intense, honeyed apricot, butterscotch, coconut, mango, honeysuckle and toasted baking spices. On the palate so smooth and so sweet like a Greek yoghurt honey cream served with wedges of juicy fresh, sweet peach or clotted cream on scones.
JUICY, OAK & VANILLA
CASK No. 2.135
$240
CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrel
AGE 15 years
DATE DISTILLED 7 April 2006
OUTTURN 189 bottles
ABV 56.5%
AUS ALLOCATION 30 bottles
Freshly baked apple crumble dusted with cinnamon and served with custard arrived with manuka honey, pink wafer biscuits and strawberries topped with macadamia nuts and mint leaves. On the palate, carrot cake made with crystalised ginger and hazelnuts joined baklava, vanilla ice cream and toasted cereals, while the lively character of apple sherbet combined with crushed nettle leaves. Water enhanced the toasty notes with freshly baked bread, oat biscuits and warm doughnuts combining with allspice, nut oils and kirsch.
JUICY, OAK & VANILLA
CASK No. 135.42
$270
REGION Highland
CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrel
AGE 21 years
DATE DISTILLED 26 July 2000
OUTTURN 138 bottles
ABV 54.9%
AUS ALLOCATION 36 bottles
A truly irresistible scent awaited us waiting to be discovered, sparkling white chocolate lime truffles next to a tropical fruit salad with cacao nibs and guava juice. On the palate neat we ran out of superlatives, so superbly smooth with flavours of kumquat, quince, monstera deliciosa (a mixture of pineapple, coconut and banana) and tonka beans. If you so wish you can add a drop of water and a whiff of sweet spices was followed by candied orange peel and white raspberry popping candy chocolate. Luscious, tropical on the palate like a La Vina cocktail, using one part of East-India solera sherry and sweet Amaro next to one part of Bourbon and a dash of orange bitters.
After overwhelmingly positive feedback from members to our mystery malts, we’ve decided to keep them going! What was going to be a one-month promotion has been so well-loved from members, we’re keeping it live for the foreseeable future.
To celebrate our 40th birthday in 2023, we’re offering up a special opportunity to invite friends to join The Society in August, and share a bottle between mates.
Invite a friend to join the SMWS in the month of August, and once they join they’ll get a $40 site voucher, and you’ll get one too! That’s $80 between you, and then on the 1st of September, we’ll draw out five names at random and send them a bottle of our Maverick bottling, valued at $220 each.
$40 for 40 years, come join the celebration, be a part of the SMWS. There’s never been a better time to join.
Every new member and referrer will automatically be entered into the draw, and automatically be sent the vouchers after the 1st of September, 2023.
Yeah yeah, another refill 46, right? Maybe so…maybe not…this cask was recently featured at a Melbourne event and was the surprise hit for many. Strangely more textural than usual, this 46.125 is an evolving beast showcasing just how versatile and delicious the Juicy, Oak & Vanilla profile sits, but also just how the magic of refill wood has charmed this distillate after 12 years. Expect notes of fruity waxes, lemon marmalade, petrichor, linseed oils and more and more…it just keeps evolving. An absolute sleeper hit.
JUICY, OAK & VANILLA
CASK No. 46.125
$175
CASK TYPE 2nd fill bourbon barrel
AGE 12 years
DATE DISTILLED 14 April 2009
OUTTURN 225 bottles
ABV 55.2%
AUS ALLOCATION 42 bottles
We felt this one was unusually rich and sweet for a refill cask. We got some lovely initial notes of ice cream wafers, bramble bush, frangipane, fruity waxes and lemon marmalade. A kiss of mineral oil in the background. Water brought deeper, earthier tones such as potting shed, wintergreen, petrichor and wood resins. The neat palate opened with linseed oils, chopped walnuts, rose water, camphor and lightly dusty sandalwood. With water it evolved towards cigarette papers, lightly sweetened cereals, salted caramel and toasted sunflower seeds.
JUICY, OAK & VANILLA
CASK No. 138.15
$275
LIGHTLY PEATED
CASK No. 4.319
$199
REGION Taiwan
CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrel
AGE 6 years
DATE DISTILLED 6 August 2015
OUTTURN 177 bottles
ABV
56.5%
AUS ALLOCATION 30 bottles
We encountered a nose full of dusty pollens, sandalwood, oily rags, camphor, aged mead, white pepper, damp tobacco leaf and hints of melon liqueur, rose syrup, Battenberg cake, lemon curd and fruit salad juices. With water we found a waxier element of furniture polish and beeswax. Putty, lime infused olive oil, chai tea, camphor, aged muscat wines, kumquat and cherry syrup. The palate displayed super richness and texture. Bright fruits, warm, toasty spices, paprika, spiced dark teas, aged cheng pi orange peels, heather flowers, marzipan and pear cordial.
REGION Highland
CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrel
AGE 10 years
DATE DISTILLED 27 January 2011
OUTTURN 237 bottles
ABV 63.3%
AUS ALLOCATION 42 bottles AM WTC EXCL USIVE
The aroma for this one was typical and excellent. Heather flowers, aniseed, herbal cough syrup and mineral oils. Also wee touches of beach pebble, hessian and coal tar soap. Coastal and superbly fresh. With water we found acrylics, some emergent sharp smokiness, chalk, beach foam and bonfire embers. In the mouth the peat arrives much more clearly with immediate notes of kiln smoke, malt vinegar, seawater and olives in brine. At 6 years of age, we combined selected casks from the same distillery. We then returned the single malt into a variety of different casks to develop further. This is one of those casks.
OILY & COASTAL
$190
REGION
CASK TYPE
AGE
DATE DISTILLED
OUTTURN
ABV
AUS ALLOCATION 42 bottles
The nose finds syrupy flapjack sweetness, heady aromas of pressed flowers and dunnage warehouses, gentle woody spices (including Fisherman’s Friends) and lemon oil. The palate complies – shortbread and salted caramel, citric peel, apricot and physalis, fresh laundry, hibiscus tea and Victory V lozenges. Adding water brings apple notes and hints of mint to the nose, along with mineral suggestions of slate and rock-pools. The reduced palate is a delight – still mouthcoatingly waxy, now with real fruity intensity –peaches and cream, mango and monstera, some seaside holiday memories of sea breezes and icecream cones; then a finish of warm earthy spices.
PEATED
CASK No. 66.210
REGION Highland
CASK TYPE 2nd fill bourbon barrel
AGE 12 years
DATE DISTILLED 21 November 2008
OUTTURN 189 bottles
ABV 59.8%
AUS ALLOCATION 48 bottles
The nose was typical of this make and suggested oily sheep wool infused with sea kelp. Then smouldering dried herbs, pickled black olives and smoky porridge. Some water brought medical vapour rubs, marjoram and smoked limoncello with poster paints. The palate opened with natural tar, a hot farmyard muddy quality (nicer than it sounds) and burnt brisket ends. Some water brought lovely notes of smoked olive oil, iron filings, medicinal embrocations and things like gorse, seawater and miso paste.
PEATED
CASK No. 93.174
$190
REGION Campbeltown
CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrel
AGE 8 years
DATE DISTILLED 7 March 2013
OUTTURN 202 bottles
ABV 57.8%
AUS ALLOCATION 30 bottles
Imagine standing at the old harbour wall watching a puffer arrive and the wind carrying the aromas from the nearby Petrol station, cheese and fish monger. A lot smokier on the palate neat, like a steaming hot smoked haddock and cockle soup, peppered smoked mackerel filets and a traditional Greek cheese smoked for 12 days using grass, leaves and herbs. After the addition of water, we fed a furnace in a foundry with heather, tarragon, lavender and rosemary before we were back at the fishmonger for smoked eel, smoked cockles in brine and to finish it all how about spicy, smoky, sweet and sour dill pickles.
RUM
CASK No. R13.4
$675
REGION Trinidad
CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrel
AGE 23 years
DATE DISTILLED 1 January 1998
OUTTURN 222 bottles
ABV 61.8%
AUS ALLOCATION 24 bottles
We have learned to expect all sorts from this (unfortunately) closed distillery. Here we go againliquorice, spice, black treacle and pineapple glazed ham, phenols, an old wooden sea chest and not to forget, washable colour glue available as Granny Smiths apple, banana mania yellow, mango tango pink and Pacific blue! The palate certainly did not lag behind with oily rags, an old metal toolbox, herbal cough mixture but also wave after wave of cherries, sugar cane and vanilla sweetness.
COGNAC
CASK No. C8.1
$795
REGION Cognac
CASK TYPE Cognac barrel
AGE 28 years
OUTTURN 521 bottles
ABV 60.5%
AUS ALLOCATION 12 bottles
At first this one is toasty and warm. All buttery cereals, roasted nuts, soft, dark fruits and lemon peel. There follows greengages, ripe peaches, butterscotch, rancio, dried thyme and bay leaves. We are standing in an earthen-floored cooperage. Water unearths dark chocolate shavings, orange zest, wild strawberries and further dunnagey notes of damp sack cloth. The palate comes in waves: at first spice; then wild flowers; grape must; camphor; raisins and sultanas; more rancio. With water there is an unctuous and dense fruit quality about the whole thing. Molasses, various oils, fruit syrups and wood resins. Majestic!
Welcome back, America! About six Outturns ago, Andrew remarked on how we have some amazing American whiskies coming through. Well, that pipeline is starting to gush, kicking off with a newcomer distillery to the Society coding system, B7! Unlike all the other B codes we’ve bottled from before which are all mostly indie and tiny distilleries in the USA, B7 is a Goliath. They do A LOT of whiskey, and we’re super excited to finally get the .3 after the first 2 casks were swallowed whole by the USA membership, which is fair…Expect notes of roasted chestnuts, maple, and Portuguese custard tarts. Welcome Distillery B7!
fill barrel - #4 char with #2 char heads
How about being served sitting on a polished mahogany antique table a roasted chestnut, caramelised onions and Stilton pizza garnished with fresh thyme. A lovely texture neat with a perfect balance of sweet, herbal and spicy flavours as we stayed with the Italian cuisine and had a penne pasta arrabbiata. Diluted we enjoyed an Indian summer’s day as we imagined walking through a rickhouse to end up sitting under a maple tree with its amazing array of coloured leaves to eat pastel de Nata, Portuguese custard tarts. The mash bill for this bourbon consists of 75% corn, 21% rye and 4% malted barley, matured in a #4 char new oak barrel with #2 char heads.
Mörk are one of the most intriguing brands working in chocolate. Founded in Melbourne by Josephin Zernell and her husband Kiril, they are trailblazers in transforming how Australians approach hot chocolate. Josephin, who I sat down with for this interview, is on a flavour-led quest like nothing else, and is bringing a whole new level of appreciation to chocolate.
Read on…
MATT BAILEY: So, I just wanted to start by asking where it all began for you with Mörk. You’re the co-founder, so tell me the story of this all beginning?
JOSEFIN ZERNELL: Well I moved here to Australia from Sweden about 14 years ago. Together with my now husband Kiril, he’s a barista and I’m a chocolate maker and the dream was to shape how people approach chocolate differently.
MB: And he didn’t convince you to put a coffee machine into your chocolate bar?
JZ: Haha no, well he asked for it and I said no haha. And when we opened here in North Melbourne 8 years ago, it was quite unusual to not have a coffee machine in a cafe or such. So, we were never really a cafe that way. We didn’t have tea. We didn’t have coffee, or soft drinks. Everything was chocolate on the menu. So, that was quite unusual, especially 11 years ago when this business all kicked off. I guess we came to Australia with an idea of, you know, exploring the city and the cafe offering that was here. The coffee scene was at its peak in Melbourne thanks to the likes of Market Lane, Seven Seeds etc, plus a lot of roasteries around the area.
So, when this began, so I think for us it was a really exciting city to live in. I’ve been a coffee roaster as well, so I’ve got a coffee roasting background.
MB: But mainly chocolate.
JZ: It’s been chocolate all my life. Coffee roasting was a little side a year outside of like a gap here for me. So, we both came from coffee to chocolate. And discovering just how good coffee was here, but just how poorly chocolate was treated. It was bit of a shock to the system. I came from Sweden and in Sweden we’ve got quite a respect for dark chocolate. We’re not known for chocolate in Sweden, not like Belgium or Switzerland. But Swedes are really caring for pure ingredients, organic ingredients, and just quality.
“AND DISCOVERING JUST HOW GOOD COFFEE WAS HERE, BUT JUST HOW POORLY CHOCOLATE WAS TREATED. IT WAS A BIT OF A SHOCK TO THE SYSTEM.”
And it’s always been a dark chocolate appreciation which has been very quickly growing, especially 11 years ago, a very fast growing market in Sweden. So while the Belgians, the Swiss, the French, and the Italians were all eating Swedish chocolate and were very well known for their rich Belgian-style drinking chocolates in Sweden. We kept on making more and more dark chocolate. So, following the trends in Sweden, what I really cared for was the dark chocolate. So, when we arrived here and we just realised, you know what, we just need to, we need, we need to bring that that culture here because it simply didn’t exist.
We found that Australia was very European influenced, but definitely not Scandinavian influenced, so we thought we’ll bring our strength to the table and we opened Mörk.
The word Mörk in Swedish means dark.
So we started on 70% cocoa and people told us we’re crazy. You NEED a milk chocolate. The 70% is too dark and bitter, you need to start on something sweet. And we just said no. We’re just going to do it the way that we want. We’re not going to compromise. We’re going to do it the way we like to drink it and hope that other people are enjoying the same. And ultimately, we found there are other people like us out there!
MB: That was sort of a lightbulb moment for Mörk then?
JZ: Absolutely. Australia is still such a young dining/drinking culture, when it comes to eating and drinking but it’s easier to make an impression and to create a new way of approaching things. Very open-minded.
So, we have the freedom to create a new culture and I think that’s exciting. So, while there’s been a lot of European influence, we thought, well, we create the Australian salt and chocolate and set that benchmark and see where we can go with that and build on it. And so we began by supplying cafes with our 70% dark chocolate and that kept on going for us for, you know, a good few years we started out working in front of people while we were still setting up the business and doing a bit here and there of supplying together.
It was an approach of until we fail, we’ll just take a leap and we’ll be able to stop working for other people. We’ll just do our thing, and we’ll go for it.
MB: And was this your first location here on Errol St, North Melbourne?
“WE HAVE THE FREEDOM TO CREATE A NEW CULTURE AND I THINK THAT’S EXCITING. SO, WHILE THERE’S BEEN A LOT OF EUROPEAN INFLUENCE, WE THOUGHT, WELL, WE CREATE THE AUSTRALIAN SALT AND CHOCOLATE AND SET THAT BENCHMARK AND SEE WHERE WE CAN GO WITH THAT AND BUILD ON IT.”
JZ: Yes!. So we started here in 2015. Mörk started as a business in 2012, but opened our physical venue here in 2015.
MB: What was your vision here with Mörk? What were you looking to improve?
JZ: I saw a trade that had no consideration for how hot chocolate was being served. We started working with baristas and retrained them to serve is because what we saw was just chocolate and milk served in a warm latte glass with very little care behind it. There was no consideration for it.
So, we said, why don’t you steam it with thermometer or keep a good temperature 65 degrees. Whisk it before you steam it. Really emulsify it. A few core things always served in a cup where you got thick walls and the mug, so you can really like, sit on it and drink it hot, not cool.
A few of these things, putting that in place, working with baristas, they started drinking the chocolate for the first time, because all of a sudden it looked interesting to them. Before that it was just an inconveniently ordered sugary drink. But now I was actually turning this into a drink that represented a new and complete representation of the same things that they stood for in their coffee with the roasteries with their coffee. Really focusing in on the flavour.
So, it started spreading throughout the city in Melbourne. We suddenly found we had built up a network of hundreds of new accounts and hundreds new companies that were serving it, which was great.
We eventually then opened up a little branch in the UK, so in London to an office there, and one in Tokyo. Things started getting really busy and just like the desire for our campfire chocolate drink, it caught on and it just spread like wildfire. Every market is different, and our customers definitely take different approaches to new products, and serving chocolate. Especially different in Japan where we now have distribution as well. In Japan, they’re very respectful of the recipes, respectful all of the serving suggestions, and they love the product.
MB: How do you approach the flavour side?
JZ: So I’ve been doing creative work in chocolate since I started in chocolate, around 20 years ago. So for me, it’s always about staying curious and I’m always excited about creating new flavour experiences, whether it’s a little praline or whether it’s in a bar or whether it’s in a drink.
MB: You sound like a whisky distiller already, obsessed with flavour.
JZ: Well I was actually going to be a sommelier many many years ago, but I never followed through with it. So I’m I’ve always been super interested in all flavours, like in, in spirits and tequila and wine.
And like I’ve always had that interest, that’s still spread over all drinking culture.
But I think when I approached it and we used to have three columns or even 4 on the menu at some point where I named them sort of your house chocolates, signatures, adventures, and our single origin ideas.
So, the adventures range would have things like you could have never tried before. Firstly, an everyday chocolate that anyone can have anytime of the day without feeling heavy or sort of way down or like you have to go and have a nap after it’s full of cream and sugar.
MB: You’re essentially creating something that’s more about the cacao and more about the flavour.
JZ: It’s always just about the cacao flavour and the quality, but then also having met creating drinks that are super crisp and lean that are refreshing that you would never expect from a chocolate. We had a soda on the menu at some point that we served as a chocolate sauce we topped with sparkling water and it fizzed up on pour. We’ve had so many different things on the menu. We even did a serve for a night time event. A campfire hot chocolate, but it’s served with a little whisky gum. So we
did a little jelly, basically, but with beautiful single malt whiskey in it. And you basically put it on your tongue and it melts away.
You have your hot chocolate with it and let that melt and you get that beautiful like flavour building through that melting in your mouth. So, for me, there are some really clear pairings that work really well, and one of those things is whisky.
And then there’s the things that we do that are outside of the box right now we’ve got because we roast so much cacao at our little chocolate factory.
We also love working with the cacao husks: It’s a generally discarded byproduct of the chocolate making process, but we don’t have the heart to just discard it. We want to do something with it, so we’ll be giving it to a lot of beer breweries. That way brewers
“I’M ALWAYS EXCITED ABOUT CREATING NEW FLAVOUR EXPERIENCES, WHETHER IT’S A LITTLE PRALINE OR WHETHER IT’S IN A BAR OR WHETHER IT’S IN A DRINK.”
“WHEN PEOPLE COME TO MÖRK, AND ESPECIALLY IN THIS QUIET ENVIRONMENT, JUST SITTING DOWN AND HAVING THAT EXPERIENCE CAN OFTEN AWAKEN MEMORIES WHERE THEY DIDN’T EXPECT IT.”
can make concept beers with it, and we can also create things like in-house cocktails. It’s very rewarding and sustainable to be able to transform that husk into something that still contains so much flavour. If we’re shipping 100% of the cacao bean over to Australia, then losing something like 30% of it in the husk, that’s a lot of potential waste. Being able to sustainably re-purpose these husks is great.
MB: Where do you want to see drinking chocolate culture change in Australia?
JZ: It first comes from an understanding that it’s not just a ‘kids drink’ and it’s not just a after dinner drink either. It’s something that we can enjoy anytime during the day. It’s also about creating an amazing chocolate experience that just really pops in the glass. Something like our campfire chocolate experience: it really excites the senses and infuses the room.
Our olfactory senses carry our strongest memories, and we form and hold those memories before even visual memories, so even just a whiff of campfire smoke can then reignite memories that in the back of our heads from many years ago.
And so, every person will have slightly different experience with it and some may not have the same, you know, strong experience, but some will, some will just sit here and go “Oh my goodness”.
That campfire smoke reminds me of being with my family out in the wilderness, having that marshmallow with the fire and the smoke is just igniting them on a stick. Amazing moments that we recall which I love bringing to life through flavour.
So when people come to Mörk, and especially in this quiet environment, just sitting down and having that experience can often awaken memories where they didn’t expect it.
MB: So how do you recommend people replicate this memory experience at home with your Mörk tubs?
JZ: So we had these sets that people went crazy for, especially through Covid, which included the chocolates, the liquid smoke, the cherry wood, and a little bottle in each one. We are out of stock at the moment, and are looking to recreate it somehow, but you don’t need much to recreate that experience at home. People just got to have a date night and do something like that together.
MB: Fantastic. Well I think we should taste some SMWS whiskies, some Mörk creations, and see how these pairings work together?
JZ: I love whisky, and I love finding flavours to work with, so let’s give it a go. We should do an event for your members I think!
MB: (Watch this space…)
A huge thanks to Josephin Zernell for her time and tasting of goodies at Mörk. I can safely say I’ve never had hot chocolate like this before, and I’ve certainly never had clarified cocoa husk juice before, but I have now!
We’re proud to be working with Krsna Raj from BASIK again for 2023 for some of the most insane flavour pairings between chocolates & whisky yet again. This year we’re mixing things up a bit, going a bit bigger, and trying on his new ‘snack bars’ which are a more substantial serve to share between two for the sets, along with some special in-person appearances.
In the lead-up to this, we’ve asked our amazing chocolatier this month a few questions to learn a bit more about his process
“IT STARTED WITH WHISKY, WELL BEFORE CHOCOLATE. STARTED OUT WITH A FEW TASTING EVENTS AND WAS ALWAYS FASCINATED WITH FLAVOUR TRANSFORMATION WITHIN THE GLASS OVER TIME.”
© Anthony Hart
Q: Where did your journey in flavour begin?
It started with whisky, well before chocolate. Started out with a few tasting events and was always fascinated with flavour transformation within the glass over time; with a drop of water, etc.
Q: Many of our members refer to you as the “mad scientist” of chocolate and you have a real “if you know, you know” level of quality. Where do you draw your inspiration from?
I think mad scientist implies a more chaotic approach to the equation. I have very deep thoughts and reflections about flavour combinations almost hourly throughout my day. Even whilst I’m typing this, my mind is racing back to the 10am sample test for the SMWS samples for our upcoming tasting.
As for inspiration, most often, from my own memories growing up, any first-time memories around certain dishes or cuisine. I try to avoid allowing my personal biases get in the way of an opportunity to pair.
Q: Something you’re constantly working on is the exploration of flavour in chocolate and expanding the very definition. How on earth do those flavours come about?
I’m quite easily distracted, working with chocolate (not eating) gives me some focus and clarity in my thoughts. It’s random, it’s often what I feel like I’d enjoy. A recent combination was struck up mid-way through a coffee catch-up about how I asked a friend: “do you remember the first time you tried a fresh batch of Macca’s hot chips with their vanilla sundae…that sweet confectionary ice cream, sugar, cream and milk all melding together
paired with these hot, crispy and lightly salted fries with a fluffy potatoey goodness on the inside?” Just out of pure excitement and being in the moment, I didn’t even give him a chance to respond before I was like just imagine if we recreated that moment of nostalgia in a bonbon. About a week later, I started polling on Instagram for suggestions on the best potato chips you could buy in a bag. We made a couverture out of that, I worked on a ganache recipe with a method used for vanilla beans — which had the mouthfeel and taste of a rich vanilla ice cream — added an almond and potato chip praline base for the texture of the above, finished with a pinch of salt and the results were exceptional. Once again, the young ones call it random AF.
Q: What flavour or compound have you found that was a really unexpected ‘pop’ for you?
I think there are way too many options here to choose from, I think my favourite experience of unexpected flavours was doing a peanut praline with Kingaroy peanuts and using Saltbush for the salt element. We had an even split of half the room that would be the friend we all know who asks for extra salt on their chips say all they could taste was a herbaceous parsley cross tarragon note, and the other half of the room claimed they could taste a lot of salt instead with no herbaceous notes.
Q: What inspirations have you selected for this special collaboration with the SMWS?
Anything and everything…
“I THINK MY FAVOURITE EXPERIENCE OF UNEXPECTED FLAVOURS WAS DOING A PEANUT PRALINE WITH KINGAROY PEANUTS AND USING SALTBUSH FOR THE SALT ELEMENT.”
It’s back. The most anticipated whisky pairing in Australia: the BASIK x SMWS collaboration that will warp flavours, transform palates, and take your tasting experience into another realm with Krsna & Matt’s ‘perfect pairings’ for 2023.
For 2023, Krsna has worked on developing a new format of ‘snack bar’, going a bit bigger with a more substantial serve to share between two, and using only the most incredible ingredients to build each one to match the spirit sample for each. We’re talking things like 116-week aged white miso base, or tonka bean, or honey ganache…you’ve never had chocolate & whisky like this before…
Join us for a VERY special evening of SMWS & BASIK pairings, virtually, on Tuesday 22nd August, 7pm on Facebook & YouTube.
73.132 - AS NATURE INTENDED with BASIK Blackberry Bitters & Chocolate Pudding
DEEP, RICH & DRIED FRUITS
68.80 - BLACK FOREST TIRAMISU with BASIK Three-Way Praline of Macadamia & Tonka Bean
ARMAGNAC
A9.1 - MUSCOVADO MERINGUE with BASIK English Breakfast AKA Orange Jaffa, also known as ‘F**kery at its finest’
CORN WHISKEY
CW2.3 - BUTTERY BAKED CORN ON THE COB with BASIK Mint Choc Chip Cookie Ice Cream
PEATED
Please note whisky tasting packs and chocolate packs will arrive as separate deliveries. Chocolate packs will arrive via Express Post a few days before the virtual tasting to ensure delicious freshness.
SALE NOW AT SMWS.COM.AU/SHOP 51
