The Second Glass - Issue #4 by Wine Riot

JULY 2007 â&#x20AC;˘ Issue 4

Over 50 Wines We Recommend Beer for the Wine Drinker The World of Sauvignon Blanc

Wines for Summertime

Fresh Thinking â&#x20AC;˘ Healthy Eating

Have a Bit Too Much Wine Last Night? A fresh and healthy pita sandwich is the perfect thing to get you back on your feet.

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ABOUT THE COVER MODEL

Lauren Brock is a graduate of Emerson College here in Boston, MA. She has recently moved to Los Angeles, CA to pursue a career as a Photographer. You can view her photographs in the upcoming edition of Motion Affair Planner (MAP) Boston or on the web at www.ďŹ&#x201A;ickr.com/sharkchop. Cover Photo by A. Friedland

Tyler Balliet

Editor-in-Chief, Publisher tyler@thesecondglass.com

Chris Hallowell

Tasting Director chris@thesecondglass.com

Ari Friedland

Lord Photography, Editor ari@thesecondglass.com

Emily Steers

Editor, Copy Editor emily@thesecondglass.com

Jessie Pray Amy Ullman

Staff Writers

Nick Blakey Jody Jordan

Contributors

Mary Costa Morgan First Jessica Morris

Photographer Additional Assistance

For At Home Delivery, Contact subscriptions@thesecondglass.com or visit our website: www.thesecondglass.com For Advertising Rates and Information Contact Tyler Balliet tyler@thesecondglass.com

Sealing the Deal

The right wines to woo that special someone

Amy’s Arts and Crafts Plant in a bottle and bottle lamp An Open Letter to Robert Parker Jr.

We Hereby Challenge You, Mr. Parker... Again.

Food for Thought

A recipe from the chef at 51 Lincoln

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

It’s time to swap the waterproof boots for flip-flops, the ski slopes for the beach and time to shelve those big, burly red wines for light and crisp whites. When I first moved to Boston in the spring of 2005, my apartment did not have air conditioning. I was on a tight budget and opted to wait out the summer and not purchase an in-the-window unit. I’m not going to lie; the summer was excruciating. I drank whites exclusively. In fact, the only red I drank all summer I remember quite vividly. It was an open bottle of 1997 Barolo that was left over from a tasting. I sat in my 95-degree apartment, sweating profusely and sipping on this fabulous, but very bold and tannic red with my brother. It was sheer determination and love of great wine that got that bottle down. Now, at least, I have A/C, so I am more willing to drink reds in August, but I still prefer a good, crisp white. In this issue, we made sure to highlight white and rosé wine. In fact, the biggest difference from our previous three issues is the tasting section. It has been greatly expanded and we have recommended over fifty wines! These are wines that were shared by friends, given to us by wineries and distributors or purchased ourselves. We tried to taste all of them with friends, so as to get the opinion of a variety of people. The bulk of the tasting was done at a small party we threw with 15 – 20 of our wine-conscious friends. The big winner at our event was the Treana White from Mer Soliel Vineyards ($25 - see page 16) but some other crowd pleasers were the Montinore Estate Pinot Gris from Oregon ($12 – also page 16) and the Domaine Houchart rosé from Provence, France ($10 – page 17 and on the cover). We also tackled a major varietal, Sauvignon Blanc, which spans three continents. We spoke with some major wine makers and sampled a variety of these delicious wines from all the major growing regions. It truly is amazing how different this grape can taste from region to region and even vineyard to vineyard. All in all this was a fun issue to put together. Summer is, without a doubt, my favorite time of year and I love all the activities, food and beverages that come with it. Enjoy the issue and pick up some of these wines. You won’t be disappointed.

Wine Perversions the bellini They Make Wine There?

There’s more to Texas than meets the eye.

Scenario

Throwing a classy party on a budget

Better Know a Region

Four Wines to drink wherever, whenever

Restaurant:

Seiyo: Raw and Uncorked

BEER FOR WINE DRINKERS

Wine Porn

An ancient wine region you may never afford

FEATURE Sauvignon Blanc

From Bordeaux to the Loire Valley in France then to California and eventually to as far away as New Zealand. The perfect summer grape has a colorful history and a very bright future.

Recommondations

By TYLER BALLIET tyler@thesecondglass.com

The Second Glass • JULY 2007 • Summertime Issue

Over 50 wines we highly suggest you purchase for one reason or another. 3

q SEALING THE DEAL “VINO VIAGRA”

“PANTY REMOVER”

It doesn’t take much to get a guy in the sack. So while he might be forced to resort to flowers and a “panty remover” wine, you can just exercise your natural charm and sex appeal. However, every once and a while you meet a guy like that and suddenly you’re compelled to entice, excite, and intrigue. And sometimes, you just really want to drink a good glass of wine. After all, it’s not always about him. So what is “vino Viagra”? It’s a wine so sexy it is guaranteed to turn your graduate school-attending, hybrid car driving, vegan boyfriend into a lust-crazed, testosterone pumping Neanderthal. In simple words, it’ll make him crazy horny.

Women don’t need us as much as we need them. That’s why sometimes it’s just downright necessary to call for back up and buy what we in the business call a panty-remover. Panty-removers are bottles that are typically first impression wines. They say, “Hey, I’m not nearly as creepy as you thought I was earlier,” or “See, I’ve got some culture,” and at the very least give the illusion that you can actually afford a bottle of wine.

To kick off the first ever installment of Vino Viagra, we decided to go down. Down Under that is. We present to you The Elderton Shiraz from Barossa. Deep, earthy, and sensual, this shiraz smacks the palate with a hearty raspberry jam that fills your mouth and tickles your tongue. Almost too powerful after first opening, the edges soften and the body deepens as the night goes on. Precisely what one would hope would happen on a truly exceptional first date.

The inaugural panty-remover is the Bonny Doon Vineyards Muscat Vin de Glaciers dessert wine. Pour a little bit into two glasses, drop the already scantily clad, lingerie label-bearing bottle down next to a candle, and let this sultry, golden, sweet nectarine seductress do the rest.

by Chris Hallowell

by Jessie Pray

u AMY’S ARTS AND CRAFTS q This is hardly the time of year to be cooped up indoors. Get out! Enjoy the sunshine! Can’t you just hear the Charles River screaming your name? Oh no, wait. That’s the screaming of the oceans of children that have over-run our beaches, bike paths, and parks like some vacationfed plague. Perhaps it’s time to stay home, relish the air conditioning, and save your outings for those gorgeous summer nights. In the meantime, there’s a reason that Arts & Crafts is still on the roster at most summer camps: they’re the perfect activities when it’s too hot or too wet to move. And let’s face it- summertime TV sucks. The Massachusetts legislature still has not come to its senses and created that bottle redemption program, so you’ve already got all of your materials on hand. Plant in a bottle: One of the downsides of living in a city is the lack of green spaces. A backyard for most people is usually tiny, cramped and, unless you have an exceptionally cool landlord, ill-kempt. Plants in the house are the only solution, but those plastic pots are woefully un-hip and prone to breakage. Make that Vinho Verde bottle live up to its name and use it as a planter. Fill the bottle about 2/3 with soil. Nothing fancy is necessary, just some good old fashioned dirt. Take a cutting of any plant with long, strong shoots, stick it through the neck of the bottle, and voila! Store in a prime sunny location, and water whenever it looks dry. You want to avoid standing water and root rot, so either water sparingly or drill a hole in the bottom. Any standard toolkit drill is fine and extra bits for glass can be picked up at most hardware stores for under $10. Bottle Lamp I: I know that Christmas is still months away, but those mini lights are so much fun they shouldn’t be limited to use only during the Yuletide season. However, I’m far too old to actually keep Christmas lights up on my wall. Use the aforementioned drill to make a hole large enough to accommodate the cord, thread the strand through the hole. Plug in, sit down and bask in the glow of your soothing new light source. 4

TO ROBERT PARKER

Photo by A. Friedland

by Amy Ullman

The Second Glass • JULY 2007 • Summertime Issue

q FOOD FOR THOUGHT by Tyler Balliet

Heirloom Tomato with Roasted Corn and Scallion Vinaigrette Recipe by Chef Jeff Fournier Serves 4 People

Arugula Salad

Heirloom Tomatoes

• 1 bunch of arugula • juice of 1 lemon • shaved parmesan

• 8 medium heirloom tomatoes • balsamic vinegar • extra virgin olive oil • 1 medium diced red onion Slice the tomatoes into thick disks. Marinate in ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil and ¼ cup of balsamic vinegar for at least one hour. Roasted Corn

Photo by T. Balliet

Jeff Fournier is head chef and owner of 51 Lincoln located in Newton, MA. The restaurant opened 2006 and from speaking with Jeff it is clear he has put all of his many talents into this establishment. From the paintings on the wall, which are all his, to the downstairs tasting room, which he built, the restaurant is a meticulously put-together atmosphere which directly compliments the cuisine. Jeff also creates his own infused liquors and holds regular wine and food pairing dinners.

• 4 ears of corn shucked Roast the corn on a grill or open flame (gas burners) until cooked and lightly charred. Cut the corn off the ears with a knife. Toss with shallot, 1tbsp olive oil and salt and pepper to taste.

51 Lincoln:

WINE PERVERSIONS

by Amy Ullman

Prosecco the sparkler synonymous with summer. Those soft, fat, peachy bubbles are just the thing to put a little glide in your stride and a dip in your hip for a late, or not so late, afternoon tipple. Prosecco owes its bubble to a process known as Charmant, wherein the whole batch of grapes is vat fermented prior to bottling. Unlike its deeply profound French cousin Champagne, it doesn’t undergo a secondary fermentation once it has been bottled. The removal of this labor-intensive stage of production results in not only a different mouth feel but a sweeter price tag. This sprightly little number is just begging to come out and play. There should be no guilt involved in stretching your dollar and making this the base of some tasty summer cocktails. There is, of course, that Sunday brunch stalwart, the mimosa. Yet that doesn’t adequately pay homage to the roots of Prosecco’s flirtatious fizz, so this month we are focusing on the Bellini. This Venetian Beauty was invented at Harry’s Bar in 1943 by head bartender Giusseppe Cirpriani. Inspired by the locally grown white peaches that had just reached their peak ripeness, the original concoction was blended with fresh puree. The result was a ravishing shade of pink, which Cirpriani found reminiscent of the work of 15th century painter Giovanni Bellini. The proportions vary from recipe to recipe, but the directions are the same. Pop an ounce or two of peach puree in a glass and gently top up with Prosecco. You may also use Peach Nectar if you are feeling cheap, or Peach Schnapps if you are feeling really cheap. Cin cin!

Wash and dry arugula. Toss with lemon juice and 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil. Shave parmesan on top. Scallion Vinaigrette • 1 bunch parsley • 2 bunches scallions • 1 shallot, chopped • ½ cup canola oil Blanch parsley and scallions in boiling water then into ice water to stop cooking process. Squeeze all the water out of the parsley and scallions. Pat dry and chop into large chunks. Blend with the shallot and canola oil until liquid. Arrange the roast corn, heirloom tomatoes and salad on a large platter or individual plates. Spread the vinaigrette across the plate and serve immediately. 51 Lincoln Street Newton Highlands, MA 617.965.3100 www.51lincolnnewton.com

THEY MAKE WINE THERE? by Amy Ullman

Texas is the land of the tumbling tumbleweeds, vast oilfields, and cattle ranchers, but who knew that Texas is one of America’s original vineyards? Vines were first planted here in the mid 17th century, by Franciscan friars eager to create a source of sacramental wine for mass. Today, it is the fifth largest wine producing state in the U.S., with over 3,200 acres of vineyards.

TEXAS: The Lone Star State Actually Makes Pretty Stellar Wine

Currently, Texas boasts seven designated American Viticultural Areas, one of which, Texas Hill Country, is the largest in the United States. Take that Napa Valley! Over 140 wineries specialize in a wide variety of vitis vinfera, or old world, varietals such as Cabernet Savignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Savignon Blanc, and Riesling. With a wide variety of climates and micro-climates situated in its vast borders, Texas is poised for national stardom. It won’t be long before California, Oregon, Washington, and New York feel the hot, dusty breath of competition gaining on them. Photo by A. Friedland

The Second Glass • JULY 2007 • Summertime Issue

SCENARIO:

Meticulously Thought Out Battle Plans to Get YouThrough Your Worst Wine Nightmares

Throwing a Classy Party on a Budget By Chris Hallowell

It’s your turn. You’ve been mooching free meals off of your friends for months now and it’s about time you return the favor. To avoid being singled out as the parasite of the group, you have to throw some kind of get together. The problem… you have no money and like yourself, they’re big drinkers. Fortunately, we here at the Second Glass are well versed with cutting corners and being as much of a bon vivant as you can when you only have $32 in your checking account. Here are a few sneak-attacks in my repertoire:

The Theme Party: Get nostalgia on your side and throw a “College Dorm” themed party. Establish the theme by telling all your friends that all the food must be either microwaved or cooked on a George Foreman grill. As far as alcohol goes, all you need is a handle of UV Vodka for $18, some cranberry juice, and a 30 rack of Natty Light. If anyone complains, tell them you’re just going for historical accuracy. Throwing a theme party is a brilliant ruse that will make your friends think you are creative, hilarious, and a genuinely cool person to be around… suckers.

The Trojan Horse: As with any plan that is named after Greek Mythology, the “Trojan Horse” involves a little bit of moral flexibility and a lot of wine consumption. This plan takes a wine that would normally be rejected

Photo by T. Balliet

and packages it differently to gain access to your guests’ stomachs. The difference is, unlike the Trojans, your guests will probably enjoy the contents of your proverbial horse. The recommended weapon for this plan is a very practical 3-liter box of Free Range Bordeaux. Unlike other boxed wines that might say ‘California Chablis’ or ‘Burgundy’ from the Santa Cruz Mountains, this Bordeaux is actually made at Saint Savin in Bordeaux and it’s not bad. In fact, it’s kind of pleasant. The upside of this wine is that you get 4 bottles worth of wine for $30, it will easily be mistaken for a much pricier bottle, and since it won’t oxidize quickly, it can be saved for a couple weeks. After your friends have

arrived and get settled in, sneak off in to the kitchen. Pour some of the Free Range into a decanter and bring it out. Seeing some red in a decanter will automatically give them the impression of a serious wine that really warrants decanting. If you are a little more devious, you can find old, empty bottles of Lafite and Margaux on ebay for about $5 and fill one of those up. If you manage to pull it off, you will always be a hero in your friends’ eyes. That is, if the guilt doesn’t kill you first. These plans aren’t quite foolproof, but if you pull them off, you’re in the clear. You will have done your duties as a friend and if they actually think you served them Lafite, think of the dinner party they’re going to feel obligated to throw!

u BEGIN THE NIGHT WITH A COCKTAIL by Tyler Balliet

BETTER KNOW A REGION TAVEL - CÔTE DU RHÔNE, FRANCE

by Amy Ullman

For our summertime issue, we take a look at a wine region that makes nothing but rosé.

The pre-dinner cocktail plays a key role in any complete evening of food and fun. I learned this from living in France. The French dining experience goes like this; aperitif, entree (appetizer in our country), main dish, salad and cheese course, dessert, after dinner drink, then coffee. The last two can be repeated as needed until the sun rises. In my experience, the aperitif, or cocktail is a crucial part. It loosens up any guests who may feel slightly on edge or uncomfortable. It also gives everyone a chance to chat before stuffing food in their face or making difficult decisions regarding the wine list. Most importantly, it sets the stage for the evening. The French usually drink a kir, whiskey or pastis. In the US, I highly suggest a drink so classy, James Bond drinks them exclusively; the martini. This will get any dinner party hopping.

Original Dry Martini

from Stuart’s Fancy Drinks and How to Mix Them. Circa 1896. 2½ oz gin A splash of dry vermouth 2 drops of orange bitters Add vermouth to a mixing glass filled with ice and stir making sure the ice is coated with vermouth. Strain off excess vermouth and add remaining ingredients. Stir until extremely chilled and strain into a frozen martini glass. Garnish with an olive or a twist.

Orange Côtes du Rhône/ Villages

Chateauneuf-du-Pape

Tavel

Rhône

Photo by A. Friedland

Tavel is one of ninety six Côtes du Rhône Village appellations in France’s Southern Rhone Valley, which is just a fancy pants way of saying that the juice produced here is super special. And indeed it is. The wines made here are all blends of any of ten permissible varietals: these run the gamut from red to white; from robust to delicate; from floral to fruity to meaty and back again. The local wine laws dictate that the wines not be based on any more than 60% of any one particular grape, which tends to be regional rock star, Grenache. The wines produced here are meant to be drunk very young, very cold and very fast: The luscious red berry fruit and spicy finish of these wines make them a perfect match with Barbecue. Pick up a bottle for your next cookout. Don’t be a sissy! Pink looks great on you.

Avignon

10km 5mi

Four Wines to Drink

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Wherever, Whenever By Jessie Pray

Three Thieves Bandit

Soﬁa Mini’s

Want a little more bang for your buck? Try Bandit juice boxes from Three Thieves. With kitschy, colorful boxes that hold 250ml of Cabernet or Pinot Grigio and a tagline that reads “This is what happens when winemakers and engineers hang out together”, how can you go wrong? The brilliance of the Bandit boxes is their utter simplicity. No corkscrew or stemware needed, just pull the tab and throw one of these “bullets” down the hatch. Based in Canada, these jewels from the north have just recently become available in the States, hitting Whole Foods retailers on May 1st. At $8.99-10.99 per 4 pack, you can afford to load up for a trip to the beach, a stroll along the Esplanade, or a simple night of summer stoop-sitting with your roommate.

This delicious canned sparkling wine takes you back to the summertime of your youth. Remember that sweating can of coke, the gentle “psst” sound it made as you pulled the tab, and that icy coldness finally hitting your dry tongue? All this can be yours with the effervescent mandarin orange tones of the Sofia Blanc de Blanc replacing the syrupy Coke. A steal at fifteen dollars for a four pack (187 ml a can), it even includes a straw! These pink drinks make the perfect companion for any picnic basket, tucked discreetly between the potato salad and fried chicken.

Blondeau Sancerre (Half Bottle) The best way to get some summer lovin’ is to plan a dinner al fresco. Whether it’s on a blanket on the common, on your shady roof deck, or at your backyard picnic table, nothing woos better than a couple of chilled half bottles of white wine. Fellas, it will probably be the only time your ears will perk up with joy when your date squeals “Oh, it’s so small and cute!” And they are damn cute. An additional plus? You can try and taste different bottles without getting embarrassingly drunk. I recommend the Blondeau Sancerre. It’s clean and crisp with a pear and mineral taste, pairing perfectly with oysters if you really want to get the mood going.

}

Summertime and the living’s easy. The sun is shining, the AC is sweating, and you’re ready to bare your sun-deprived skin and enjoy the two and a half months of good weather New England has to offer. This is not the time to sip on port in your den-like apartment– now, it’s all about the great outdoors. And, of course, drinking outdoors! Belly up to the beach and instead of packing your cooler full of PBR, try one of these other slick, wallet-friendly options.

Anything that ﬁts into a

Nalgene

What could be more unassuming than a Nalgene bottle? Carried around by mountain climbing hippies and BC preps alike, a Nalgene gives off the appearance of good, wholesome fun. Unless you are weaving like a homeless man on Saint Patrick’s Day, there is very little chance the “authorities” will know what you are imbibing. So what to put in it? The possibilities are endless, however, I would go with some delicious white wine sangria. Grab a bottle of inexpensive white, chill until nearly frozen, throw into your Nalgene with fruit, peach schnapps, and Fresca and you’ve got yourself a delicious summer treat. The Second Glass • JULY 2007 • Summertime Issue

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u RESTAURANT REVIEW

Seiyo: Raw and Uncorked q

by Jody Jordan

1721 Washington Street Boston, MA 02118 617-447-2183 www.seiyoboston.com Maki and Merlot, Naruto and Noir, Tobiko and Tempranillo … if there were ever two culinary experiences that, when fused together, were just as delightful and trendy as they are separately, sushi and wine are it. The unity of Japanese cuisine and good wines is long overdue. This teeny South End eatery embodies small-scale class with fresh fish, carefully creative presentation, and an attached wine shop without a mainstream brand in sight. The place is made up of a dining area and adjacent shop to the rear. Waves of red triangular shelves line the shop’s walls and offer over 250 facings. None of the wines are household-names– Seiyo likes to support smaller vineyards for the care in selection and production that comes from Mom and Pop makers. Once the restaurant gets its liquor license (which could happen in the near future) most wines from the store will be available by the bottle and the glass in the restaurant, with some menuonly additions. On the whole, the shop and the restaurant will be separate but complementary.

Photo by M. Costa

Hours of Operation: Mon - Thurs 11:30am - 10:00pm Fri - Sat 11:30am - 11:00pm Sun 1:00pm - 10:00pm

Seiyo fits in perfectly with its innovative and modestly chic South End neighbors. A heavy red curtain welcomes patrons from Washington Street. Long and geometric wooden tables fill the small dining space and helixes of green glass bottles twist like corkscrews into columns, and separating the interior from the foyer. In short, the design is superbly modern and almost distractingly stylish. Try the rich Maki or a super-fresh and unexpectedly delicious sashimi plate with thick slices of fish including tuna, salmon, and yellowtail. Buck up for the metal chop sticks; they’re a lovely piece of décor but not for the novice eater. Seiyo owner, Steve Clement says Sushi tastes especially good with crisp wine that can handle the intense array of flavors in Japanese cuisine. Something white and light usually fits the criteria best. The following are available for purchase in the wine shop.

Keep an Eye Out for These Wines at Seiyo 2006 Joel Gott, Sauvignon Blanc - $13.99 2005 Vin d’ Alsace André Blanck, Riesling - $14.99 2005 Kalmuck Wachau, Grüner Veltliner - $14.99 2005 Frederic Esmonin Bourgogne, Pinot Noir - $15.99

u BEER FOR WINE DRINKERS By Nick Blakey

Beer Manager at Bauer Wine and Spirits

Brooklyn Brewing Local 1 (NY) $8.99/750m A more Belgian than Belgium beer brewed right in Brooklyn by brewmaster Garrett Oliver himself. Turn on your Chardonnayloving friends.

Schneider Organic Wiesen Edel-Weisse (GER) $3.50/500ml Nothing quenches warmer weather better than Hefe-Weizens. Akin to Viognier, but good for all red, white, and rose drinkers.

Brasserie Dupont Foret Saison (BEL) $8.99/750ml

Belgium’s only organic saison is a delicious explosion of ﬂoral accents and light spice. Deﬁnitely Riesling Kabinett meets Gewurztraminer.

Avery Brewing Co. India Pale Ale (CO) $9.99/6Pk If IPA is the Cabernet Sauvignon of beer, then Adam Avery’s brewery is the Honig of the beer world.

Narragansett Lager (RI) $5.99/6Pk

Lagunitas Brewing Co. Censored Copper Ale

New England’s prodigal child of a light lager and the very best brew in its price range. Think Verdiccio.

(CA) $7.99/6P

California Pinot Noir and Zinfandel quaffers should enjoy this dangerous drinkable slightly malty brew well known to cause chronic addiction. Photo by A. Friedland

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u WINE PORN By Tyler Balliet

CortonCharlemagne Burgundy, France

The sub-region of Corton-Charlemagne produces white wine made from chardonnay and is located on a western facing hill in France’s Beaune region of Burgundy. This small plot of land, from which many producers buy their grapes, was actually owned by Charlemagne himself. The man conquered most of Western and Central Europe around 800AD, but this piece of land was considered to be in his personal land holdings. Grapes were grown here 1200 years ago to make wine for the first “Holy Roman Emperor” and grapes are grown here today to make wine for you, if you can afford it. Although there are some “moderately” priced wines from Corton-Charlemagne (around $100) Domaine Coche-Dury takes the cake with the 2001 vintage coming in around $3,000 per bottle. This is definitely a wine fit for a king, emperor or someone who conquered most of a continent.

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SAUVIGNON BLANC By Chris Hallowell

Photo by D. Nelson

There you are freezing indoors, listening to the pouring rain, gearing up to drink a big fat red to warm up with when, all of the sudden, it’s sunny and 90 degrees out. Since drinking most reds on a hot summer day will suck your soul out through your tongue and gums, you have to get your alcohol fix somewhere else; it’s time to turn to Sauvignon Blanc. Sauvignon Blanc is synonymous with summer. It’s a crisp and refreshing wine that could just as easily be served with oysters at a luxurious dinner as it would be by the pool-side, stoop-side, or court-side in between plays of a basketball game in lieu of Gatorade. Unlike most wines, Sauvignons are meant to be drank young, while their fruit is extremely vibrant and fresh, like biting into the pulp of a zesty grapefruit or a 12

perfectly ripened peach. A Sauvignon Blanc’s straightforward fruit can be appreciated by everyone, but what really makes this wine exhilarating is its ability to showcase different terrior and style. Perhaps this is why Sauvignon Blanc is planted from California, to Serbia, to New Zealand, and everywhere in between. Although more and more of the Earth is starting to be covered in Sauvignon vines, there are three areas in particular where the grape has flourished.

The Second Glass • JULY 2007 • Summertime Issue

The village of Sancerre.

Rows of Sauvignon Blanc vines

The hills surrounding Sancerre

Above photos by S. Grijpink

Photo by M. Dance

LOIRE VALLEY, FRANCE absolute ease of drinking, producers started making more serious wines from the Sauvignon Blanc grape. These When traditionalists think Sauvignon wines showcase fruit, terroir, and a Blanc, they think France. Sauvignon unique set of flavor profiles and acidity Blanc is thought to have originated in to pair with food. As a result, the wine Bordeaux where it has been most often from Sancerre really caught on in the 70s partnered with Sémillon to make dry and 80s, and became a popular restaurant and sweet wines for hundreds of years. wine. Sancerre expanded to keep up with However, like Ortiz playing for the Sox demand and passed the popularity right after coming from the Twins, Sauvignon on down the line to Pouilly (who plant Blanc really found its home in the Loire Sauvignon Blanc almost exclusively), Valley; in particular, taking the Sauvignon the Sancerre and “like Ortiz playing for Blanc grape from the Pouilly-Fumé 13th most planted appellations. These the Sox after coming white grape in France two appellations are during the 60s to from the Twins, separated by the Loire the 3rd most planted River and for the most Sauvignon Blanc today. part, have the same The uniqueness of hilly, limestone-and- really found its home this area’s Sauvignon flint soil, landscape. Blanc comes from Even though in the Loire Valley” its terroir (the French grapes have been term for characteristics planted here since Roman times, Sancerre that land and climate impart to its wine) didn’t really concentrate on Sauvignon and the importance most of the region’s Blanc until the mid 20th century. After winemakers place on it. The limestone starting out as an extremely light-bodied and gravel soil with traces of flint makes wine made almost specifically for the for a more perfumed wine that might be

slightly smoky and almost green fruit, some herbaceousness, and acrid on the nose, as well as a little something that might be slightly having a noticeable minerality reminiscent of a litter-box. Ok, so that last trait probably on the palate. The hallmark aroma The hallmark aroma didn’t sell you of Sauvignon of Sauvignon Blanc on Sauvignon Blanc, but Blanc (especially the wines of these is what winos call, it isn’t at all offensive. It appellations) is “Cat’s pee on a is actually what winos call, “Cat’s pee on at a gooseberry bush.” This is gooseberry bush.” looked favorably by because great representations most wine of Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé, and Sauvignon Blancs in general, might have enthusiasts and you can rest assured the a strong aroma of gooseberries, other wine will not taste like Tidy Cats brand cat litter.

Tips for Buying Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé Pretty much anyone who says they can distinguish a Sancerre from a Pouilly-Fumé is full of crap. But, if you are faced with the option of buying a cheap bottle of one or the other, go with the Pouilly. After Sancerre spiked in popularity, the appellation expanded from about 1,700 acres to around 6,400 to keep up with demand. This means that the cheaper wines of Sancerre are probably sourcing their grapes further and further away from the actual town of Sancerre and the soil (and attention to detail) can be more variable. Sauvignon Blanc is meant to be a crisp and refreshing wine. What makes a wine “crisp” is a high, yet balanced amount of acidity. The factor that keeps acidity present in grapes is predominantly weather and more specifically temperature. Unfortunately weather is hugely variable year to year in the Loire, so in an “off year,” you might want to spend a little extra cash to get a wine from a producer you trust. Don’t buy old Loire Sauvignon Blancs from bargain bins. Sauvignon Blanc is meant to be enjoyed young and fresh, like produce from a farmer’s market. Although Pouilly-Fumé can produce some age-worthy wines, they’re probably not something you would find 2 for $10 in the front of the store.

The Second Glass • JULY 2007 • Summertime Issue

The famous Cloudy Bay Vineyard brought New Zealand winemaking to the world stage.

Blenheim, New Zealand

MARLBOROUGH, NEW ZEALAND

happen i f Gallagher swapped out his watermelons with grapefruit, Marlborough is a young wine and then covered the remains with freshproducing region on the northeastern cut grass. This in large part has to do tip of the South Island of New Zealand. with Marlborough’s varying soil types, Here Sauvignon Blanc is number one. climate, and creative winemakers. Simon Vines were first planted here in 1973 by Waghorn, winemaker of Whitehaven Montana, New Zealand’s dominant wine Wines explains: producer (responsible “The biggest “The biggest for about half of contributor to our success their wine). After with Sauvignon Blanc contributor to their vines matured, would have to be the Montana proved that our success with cool climate – moderate Marlborough was daytime temperatures, in fact, an awesome clear sunny skies, and Sauvignon Blanc region for Sauvignon crisp cool nights. We Blanc. Montana’s would have to be the get the light quality for success inspired many photosynthesis, but not cool climate” other growers and the excessive heat to producers to follow bake away the flavor. suit. Marlborough - Simon Waghorn, Wine Our grapes take a while Maker for Whtehaven to ripen, and it is early then caught the international eye and to mid fall before we was recognized as a great Sauvignon Blanc harvest – so the long flavor accumulation producer with Cloudy Bay’s first release in also has a bit to do with the intensity.” 1985. Since then the relatively small wine In addition to the climate, Kim producing country of New Zealand has hit Crawford, Proprietor of Kim Crawford the world market fast and hard. Wines attributes his Sauvignon’s character Marlborough’s Sauvignon Blancs are to the landscape, soil, and planting very unique especially because of their techniques: high acidity and piercing aroma. The wines “from a geographical sense, the two here are very citrusy and have a refreshing main valleys run west to east, and we green character that smells like what would plant north to south. So, therefore we plant

The Second Glass • JULY 2007 • Summertime Issue

Photos by D. Nelson

across old river beds, riverbanks etc and have variable soil types within the rows. Giving a wide range of flavours.” Though New Zealand wine makers can take advantage of the land and its climate, winemaking in New Zealand is not always a walk in the park. Not even 150 years ago, most of this land was covered by rainforest. Some of the soil here is very fertile, which believe it or not, isn’t the best for growing wine grapes. This goes double for a vine as vigorous as Sauvignon Blanc. Vigour refers to the vegetative growth on the vines. In New Zealand, when the vines aren’t meticulously pruned, the vines’ vegetation will grow out of control, making the resulting wines too thin, acidic, and actually making them taste more vegetative than fruity. However, great producers that take the time with their vines have been able to churn out consistently great Sauvignon Blancs, characteristic of New Zealand year after year.

Tips for Buying New Zealand Sauv Blanc

Keep in mind that New Zealand is in the Southern Hemisphere which means their fall is our spring and vice versa. Because of the difference in season they pick grapes six months earlier than we do so a 2006 from New Zealand is really a 2005 and a half. Buy as long as it’s young... period

Beringer Vineyards Napa Valley, California

Sterling Vineyards, Napa Valley, California Photo by L. Gateley

CALIFORNIA, UNITED STATES

In the early days of California wine planting methods and make the grapes less making, Sauvignon Blanc did not do vegetal. According to Honig winemaker, particularly well. Americans did not like the Kristin Belair “the silver lining of the pungent aromas and bean and asparagus- phylloxera ‘disaster’ was replanting and like herbaceousness the wine had. This with new trellising systems (support all changed in 1966 when marketing structures used to train vines) that allowed mastermind, Robert more light on the “California tends Mondavi made fruit,” and that now a predominantly “California tends to lean towards a Sauvignon Blanc to lean towards a wine with a little fruit forward style, fruit forward style, [showing] citrus, Sémillon for body. He also covered up melon and tropical [showing] citrus, the “green” qualities [aromas and flavors]. that are characteristic The herbal notes melon and tropical can be there but are of the grape with oak, and called it Fumé certainly not the bell Blanc, alluding to [aromas and flavors].” pepper and green Pouilly-Fumé. The - Kristin Belair, Winemaker bean flavours that resulting wine was you saw through for Honig Vineyards more like a California the early 1980s…. Chardonnay than [Now] if oak is used, a Sauvignon Blanc, but, that was what it tends to be as an enhancement, rather Americans wanted at the time. This caught than something to cover up herbal or on and raised the popularity of Sauvignon vegetative flavours.” Blanc in California tremendously. Like the wines of Loire and New Sauvignon Blanc continued to be Zealand, California Sauvignon Blancs made in this style until the early 80s when are unique because, to a large extent, they phylloxera aphids ate away at California’s are manipulated by their climate. Napa vines, which then needed to be replanted. Valley is about 3 1/2 degrees latitudenally This enabled growers to use more modern closer to the equator than Marlborough

and about 9 degrees closer than the Loire. This means Napa’s Sauvignon Blanc grapes will contain less acid and more sugar. After fermentation the resulting wine will have less acid and more alcohol, thus, less crisp with heavier body. This is magnified still, the further down the California coast Sauvignon Blanc is planted. California winemakers can still make a more acidic, lighter bodied wine by picking grapes early, giving California a wide range in its already very diverse spectrum of Sauvignons.

Photo by J. Gateley

Tips for Buying California Sauvignon Blanc Wines labeled ‘Fumé Blanc’ will most likely be bigger bodied Sauvignon Blancs with a bit of Sémillon and hints of oak, while wines labeled ‘Sauvignon Blanc’ will probably be more fruit-forward, easy drinking, and a cleaner expression of the grape. Sauvignon Blanc is planted all over California and the U.S. for that matter. Wines that are further north on the California coast will tend to have more acidity while further down, the wines might be less “crisp” and more fullbodied.

The Summer of Love

When you hear ‘The Summer of Love’ you think about promiscuous hippies doing their thing in San Francisco in ’67. The real ‘summer of love’ was sometime in the 18th century in Bordeaux. Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc shacked up in a field crossing, producing Cabernet Sauvignon out of wedlock. Sauvignon Blanc shares an herbaceous quality in its aroma with Cabernet Sauvignon. I guess that’s the least the Sauvignon grape could give Cabernet after being emotionally unavailable during his adolescent years.

The Second Glass • JULY 2007 • Summertime Issue

u WINE RECOMMENDATIONS By Chris Hallowell

USA

House White 2006

O’Reilly’s Pinot Gris 2006

Oregon $16 This Pinot Gris has a lot of soft and fresh melon fruit with some mineral. It’s not the most complex bottle, but it is very crisp, refreshing, and the fruit is awesome without being in your face. It’s a perfect food wine with lots of acidity and not many intrusive flavors.

Montinore Estate Pinot Gris 2006

Willamette Valley, Oregon $12 This Pinot Gris almost makes all other Pinot Gris above $12 obsolete. On the nose it shows pear, orange, and most of all roasted peanuts. It has a surprisingly thick and full body, that turns up some missing tropical fruit and some minerals. Check this one out, it is well balanced, intensely flavorful, and it’s TWELVE DOLLARS!

Geyser Peak Sauvignon Blanc 2006 California $13

This almost tastes like it could be a New Zealander with its intense lemonlime, grapefruit and tangerine fruit. This crisp, fruit-forward wine is awesome as a cocktail on the most miserably hot and humid Boston summer days.

Honig Sauvignon Blanc 2005

Napa Valley, California $17 Here’s a great fruit forward wine from Napa that you can afford. It has a very open aroma of lemon and melon, with a touch of grilled asparagus on the palate. The ﬁnish is long and loaded with minerals. Next time you’re at the raw bar order the Honig.

Kunde Estate Magnolia Lane Sauvignon Blanc 2005

Sonoma, California $12 This is a rich Sauvignon Blanc with tons of grapefruit and peaches with a bit of marshmallow and vanilla rounding it out. It is not the most crisp summer wine I’ve ever seen, but if you like a slightly fullerbodied Sauvignon, pick this bottle up. 16

Columbia Valley, Washington $11 This medium bodied, easy drinking bottle is a blend of Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Riesling, and Pinot Gris. You’ll see that it’s more than just a ‘House White’ once you get a whiff of that peach and violet nose. It will hold up with food, but would be just ﬁne as a solo summer-sipping cocktail.

Liberty School Chardonnay 2005

Central Coast, California $12 A lot of Chardonnay for not too much cash. This is a pretty and buttery chard with some tropical fruit, a bunch of acidity, and a little vanillin oak. Pair the bottle with a risotto or some pasta with cream sauce.

Newton Red Label Chardonnay 2005 California $24

If you feel like splurging on a bottle of Chardonnay, look no further. The fruit is almost too good. It’ll be hard to savor this bottle instead of chugging it once you take a whiff of the cantaloupe, watermelon, and pear on the nose. The fruit is emphasized on the palate with the slightest touch of oak and orange rind on the ﬁnish. If I had to criticize this wine, it might be a little alcohol heavy, but that does make it a great date wine (wink wink).

Hedges C.M.S. Red 2004

Columbia Valley, Washington $12 Hedges’ CMS is a blend of Cabernet, Merlot, and Syrah… Clever right? This bottle has good, clean plum and raspberry fruit with decent concentration, and a little bit of spice. Deﬁnitely worth the price for a medium bodied red.

Jekel Vineyards 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon

Central Coast, Callifornia $13 Comfort food has taken liquid form in the 2004 Jekel Vineyards Central Coast Cabernet. This well structured wine gives you an abundance of black fruit, a bit of oak, a little spice, and some tingling tannins. It’s not an exhilarating and complex show-off, but if you want a hangout-at-home, medium-bodied, drinkunder-an-afghan, comfort-wine; pick this bottle up.

LETTER FROM THE TASTING DIRECTOR What’s up wine-drinkers? In the last few weeks, your support of our magazine, the industry’s open arms, generous wineries, and a penchant for drinking more than my own weight have all aligned. As a result, I’m totally honored to give you 50+ recommendations for the first time in Second Glass history! The focus of our recommendations is almost entirely on “value wines” with a few “have to have it” bottles. The selection process is simple. Either we’re given a sample, I buy a very modestly priced bottle, or I get Tyler wasted off my cheap stuff until he pulls out a bottle he’s been saving. From these wines, either the majority of the staff or

Liberty School Syrah 2004

Central Coast, California $14 There might be a better Syrah out there for $14, but I haven’t seen it. An inky, purple wine with barely any rim, it has an awesome blueberry pie, button mushroom, and cinnamon and brown sugar nose. These aromas are accompanied by some pepper on the palate with a slightly bitter, sweet veggie ﬁnish.

Pavin & Riley Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

Columbia Valley, Washington $11 This is an un-complicated, no frills, fruitforward cherry-bomb of a wine. It might not have much going on, but it is totally approachable, with clean fruit and a great price. This is the perfect bottle for a party or hanging out with friends that may not be used to drinking bigger reds.

High(er) End Favorites Hook & Ladder Chardonnay 2004

Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California $20

This is a fantastic American Chardonnay! Its sweet green apple and pineapple fruit balances out the soft oak and vanilla flavors. This is the perfect bottle to split between an avid non oaker and an American oaked Chard-lover, the best of both worlds.

The Second Glass • JULY 2007 • Summertime Issue

I pick the bottles we think are good values at their price-point or situationally perfect for specific occasions. We aren’t paid to review any of our wines and I will never recommend a bottle I would not buy with my own money. Being summer, we have a ton of crisp whites and a few rosés to help get you through the more sweltering days. For those weird New England 50-something degree summer days, we have some pretty rocking reds too. For those of you who are a little more adventurous, I’ve also thrown in a couple of cool and quirky wines that I’m diggin’ on right now. So please, pick up a few, let me know what you think, what you’d like to see more of, and how the hangover is! Chirs Hallowell Tasting Director chris@thesecondglass.com

House Red 2005

Columbia Valley, Washington $13 The ‘House Red’ is a great example of the values that are coming out of Washington. For $13 you can have a serious wine that you don’t have to save up to buy. This big-bodied blend of mostly Cab, Merlot, Syrah, Malbec, and Cab Franc will blow you away with raspberry, plum, earth, and spice. This bottle warrants at least an hour of decanting.

Treana White Viognier/ Marsanne 2004

Mer Soleal Vineyard Central Coast, California $25

If you buy nothing else from our recommendation section, buy this bottle. It’s one of the pricier bottles we’ll recommend but in one of our tasting of 40+ wines, this was a near-unanimous favorite. As the glass approaches your nose you can tell it’s going to be an intensely rich wine with loads of peach, honey, and floral aromas. Tasting the wine reveals some apricot, cream, and a little bit of oak rounding out the flavors. Go ahead, splurge, you deserve it.

Here’s the deal, Tyler and I tasted the wines from Opolo at a huge Paso Robles tasting in Boston. Going through the Opolo table was like an endurance test. There were nine wines, each bigger than the next. At the end of the table we couldn’t feel our own faces. It was AWESOME! These are huge and burly wines with tons of alcohol and tannin. Guys, if you’re ever in the locker room, accidentally touch another dude’s thigh, and need to do something to prove your manliness; drink some of the following wines. Let’s just put it this way, if the Brawny man was a wino, he’d drink Opolo exclusively.

Opolo Merlot 2004

Paso Robles, California This super-extracted, concentrated, blood-red wine is not for the faint of heart. It has an alcoholic nose of cherry and plum fruit with chocolate, caramel, and gristle. On the palate this Merlot has lots of smooth tannins, some oak, and a touch of menthol leading up to one hell of a long ﬁnish.

FRANCE Fournier Pere & Fils 2005

Menetou-Salon, France $16 If you like old world Sauvignon Blancs but lack the funds to enjoy them, here you go. Just west of Sancerre with almost the exact same soil, this bottle gives you the trademark style at three quarters of the price. Pears and snow peas pop out of the glass with a little bit of mineral on the palate.

Fournier Pere & Fils Grand Cuvee Fournier 2004

Paso Robles, California $24 This is a balls to the wall Syrah with blueberry fruit, green bell pepper, black pepper, and French toast aromas. Tasting the wine, there are flavors of kirsch and blueberry with hints of olive, earth, and cedar. Pair this up with a thick, grilled steak packed with pepper.

Sancerre, France $20 This is a cool and complex Sancerre. It is slightly buttery with some lemon and kiwi fruit, some mineral, and something vaguely reminiscent of ﬁsh oil. I don’t know, that may not sound too appealing and maybe it’s not an everyday wine, but I found it to be one of the more interesting Sancerres out there.

Opolo Fusion 2004

Blondeau 2004

Opolo Syrah 2003

Paso Robles, California $32 Opolo’s Fusion is a blend of 50% Syrah, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 18% Merlot. It gives a nose of crushed black pepper from across the room with a little bit of flowers and musk. On the palate it is almost sweet with black cherry, blueberry, and alcohol. The ﬁrm tannins dissipate on the ﬁnish as traces of sirloin linger. This is a Parker wine with tattoos and multiple piercings.

Opolo Mountain Zinfandel 2005

Paso Robles, California $26 Tipping the scales with 16.1% alcohol, this Zinfandel will deﬁnitely put some hair on your chest. The wine is dark purple and totally opaque. Its nose forewarns you of the alcohol with some added strawberry fruit, some thyme, and pepper. It has immense, sweet fruit on the palate and ﬁnishes with a slight sting of alcohol that will appeal to the masochist in everyone. If you’re feeling tough, pair this bottle with a rack of ribs covered in hot BBQ sauce.

Sancerre, France $20 I’ve always had a soft spot for Blondeau’s Sancerre, but 2004 is a particularly good bottle. It has great lemon fruit, some green pepper (but won’t offend people that don’t like greener Sauvignons), and a lot of mineral, especially on the ﬁnish. Affordable French Sauvignon at its best!

Fournier Pere & Fils Grand Cuvee Fournier 2004

Pouilly-Fume, France $22 Now this is a Sauvignon Blanc! A little lemon zest, a bit of spice, fruit cocktail, cut hay, and wet stones are just some of the flavors and aromas bouncing around in this glass. If you’re willing to spend the money, this is a great bottle at a good price (for the region).

Verget du Sud Marsanne 2005

Pays du Vaucluse, France $12 Attention selfproclaimed intellectuals; your summer white has arrived. This full bodied and very aromatic bottle is meant for sipping and savoring. Its interesting and delicate aroma gives of white pepper, Indian spices, and clove. If you don’t pay close attention, you’ll miss everything this complex white has to offer.

Domaine Houchart Rosé 2006

Provence, France $10 Listen guys, we only have the next two or three months to be able to drink rosés without ridicule. So make sure to buy some 2006 Houchart and apply liberally to your mouth. This bottle offers up some strawberries and cream with butterscotch and minerals. (As Seen on the Cover)

Patrick LeSec Saint-Chinian 2000

Languedoc, France $22 This is testosterone in a bottle. The heavy nose of musk, rubber, meat, leather and tobacco really stinks…I mean, it really stinks… and I LOVE it! Like the horrible smelling cheese, you have to be a little open minded to appreciate this blend of old vine Grenache, Carignan, and Syrah, but if you’re in touch with your inner carnivore, give this bottle a try.

ITALY Big Mamma’s Pinot Grigio

Italy $3 Let’s get this out in the open; This is not a good bottle of wine. However, this is not a bad bottle of wine. There is nothing offensive about this wine and it costs three bucks. Fair enough? Let’s put it this way… if you vomit, it will be because of the alcohol, not the taste.

Impero Pinot Grigio 2005 Veneto, Italy $9

Want to get daytime drunk? Of course you do. This crisp Pinot Grigio gives great lime and orange fruit with wet stone leading to the orange rind ﬁnish. Another great summer wine that is awesome next to a piece of delicate, white-fleshed ﬁsh.

Sirch Tocai Friuliano 2005

Colli Orienntali del Friuli, Italy $20 Another perfect wine for summer afternoon cocktails, this Tocai Friuliano has very rich honeydew melon fruit and minerals to spare. It has some great acidity but I don’t know if I’d pair this with very much. Save this bottle for predinner drinks.

The Second Glass • JULY 2007 • Summertime Issue

Michele Chiarlo Gavi 2005 Piemonte, Italy $17

Italian die-hards looking for a little more from their whites should check this bottle out. This bottle has it all, an amazing floral and honeyed aroma, with gobs of lemon, peach, minerals on the ﬁnish, and crispness that begs to be paired with food. Try it with some scallops or oil-based pasta sauces (mmm pesto).

Conti Contini Sangiovese 2004

Tuscany, Italy $13 This lighter styled red shows vibrant plum and strawberry fruit, and is very easy drinking. Pair this bottle up with some Teriyaki chicken, Parmesan cheese, or a pizza.

AUSTRALIA Hobbs Winery Kiss Chasey 2006

Western Australia $15 This blend of 48%Chenin Blanc, 27% Chardonnay, 21% Verdelho, and the rest Sémillon, makes for a perfect offdry aperitif. Lemon-lime, orange rind, and tropical fruit dominate the nose and palate with some acidity to balance out the sugar.

Yalumba ‘Y Series’ un-oaked Chardonnay 2006

South Australia $10 This fruit-forward and juicy chard gives a blast of pineapple, kiwi, and honey on the nose before it turns to a crisp, citrusy wine on the palate. This wine is a great compromise between the lively and vibrant freshness of a Sauvignon with the body and honey of Chardonnay.

Thorn Clarke Shotﬁre Ridge Cuvee 2003

Barossa, Australia $20 This Bordeaux-like blend with a bit of Shiraz is one hell of a wine. It’s a little more old school and earthy than a typical Australian wine with great currant, plum, licorice, and coffee ground flavors. If Bordeaux prices are racking up your credit card debt, check this reasonably priced alternative. 17

u WINE RECOMMENDATIONS Pillar Box Red 2005

Padthaway, Australia $13 Bitchin wine, little cash… That’s how the Second Glass does it. This is the second year this wine has been made. The ‘04 was awesome, but the ‘05 is, well, more awesomer. Weighing in with 15% alcohol, this Aussie is not lacking in the body department. The blend of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot offers up a chewy wine with intense strawberry and raspberry fruit with hints of cracked pepper.

NEW ZEALAND Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc 2006

Marlborough, New Zealand $17 Kim Crawford wines have enjoyed a lot of good hype and with good reason. The wines are consistently excellent and very representative of New Zealand Sauvignons. This particular bottle is very clean and zesty with citrus fruit, peach, lemon grass, and minerals.

Brancott Sauvignon Blanc 2006

Marlborough, New Zealand $15 Owned by Montana, Brancott is the oldest winery in Marlborough. This wine has very vibrant lime and watermelon fruit, with fresh cut grass and wet stone. Add this to your list of delicious New Zealand Sauvignons.

Matua Sauvignon Blanc 2006

Marlborough, New Zealand $15 This bottle has an impressively large mouthfeel and delivers tons of grapefruit with a little bit of freshly cut grass on the palate and a lingering citric and mineral ﬁnish.

Brancott Chardonnay 2005

Marlborough, New Zealand $15 This is a great fruit-forward Chard. Aromas of citrus fruit and cotton candy precede a great creamy palate and surprisingly long ﬁnish. Pair this with a medium-fleshed ﬁsh with a cream sauce, or a little lemon. 18

ARGENTINA Bodegas Norton ‘Lo Tengo’ Torrontés 2005

Mendoza, Argentina $11 This white is a honeyed, peachy, citrusy, and floral monster; a real hedonist’s utopia. Even with all this going on, it remains dry, crisp, and light bodied. It’s perfect for drinking on a deck in the sun or next to a space heater and a 150-watt light bulb wishing you were on a deck in the sun.

Crios de Suzana Balbo Malbec Rosé 2006

Mendoza, Argentina $12 This rosé is really nice and really pleasant. That’s right, this is a nice, pleasant wine with soft but tart cranberry, apple and strawberry fruit. It’s slightly sweet with a little tannin and acid to balance everything out. This wine is meant to be imbibed while lying in a chaise lounge.

Colonia las Liebras Bonarda 2005

Mendoza, Argentina $8 Bonarda: this magniﬁcient grape has traveled all the way from Piedmont, Italy to Mendoza where it makes great, medium-bodied, juicy wines for very little cash. This particular Bonarda has very ripe blueberry, strawberry, and prune fruit with a touch of tannin and a short and tasty ﬁnish.

Cultura de los Andes Malbec Reserve 2005

Mendoza, Argentina Purple and inky, this bottle is the bomb. Creamy raspberry fruit is complimented by chalkiness and chocolate. This is a candidate for your summertime grill-side red.

The Second Glass • JULY 2007 • Summertime Issue

Maipe Malbec 2006

Mendoza, Argentina $12 This bottle is ridiculously deep and complex, especially for 12 dollars. Smelling this cerebral wine reveals pine, menthol, rubber, pepper, and cinnamon. Swirling it around over your tongue shows off its plum fruit and soft tannins for such a young wine. On the ﬁnish it sends a whiff of sirloin up the back of your throat. This bottle would be a great topic of conversation or the perfect partner to a fat, blood red steak.

CHILE Montes Pinot Noir 2005

Casablanca Valley, Chile $16 These days if you’ve found a Pinot that you can keep down for under $20 you’ve struck gold. Not only is this bottle stomach-able, but it’s actually pretty good. There are great flavors of cherries, rosemary, and meat. It’s a fruit-forward, slightly spicy, easy drinking wine at a price you won’t see in the near future.

Casillero del Diablo Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

Maipo Valley, Chile $10 This bottle comes straight from the “cellar of the Devil” where it got its dark currant and black cherry fruit, a little bit of chocolate, some chalkiness, and a very light hint of vanillin oak. This medium bodied Cab will give you all the right flavors to pair with any piece of bloody, undercooked meat yet it doesn’t have ridiculous body or tannins that would require you to get an IV drip to stay hydrated during the summer.

Santa Ema Carmenere Reserve 2002

Maipo Valley, Chile $18 This bottle isn’t for everyone, but it was my favorite bottle in a South American tasting so I have to include it. This bottle (made from an old Bordeaux blending grape) has a ‘smack you across the face’ nose of burnt rubber, glue, and grilled vegetables. On the palate it shows currant, pencil lead, and anise along with the vegetal overtones. If you’re looking for something different and straight-up cool, try your hand at this Carmenere.

GERMANY Dr. L (Loosen) Riesling 2006

Marques de Riscal Rosé Rioja, Spain $10

Mosel-Saar-Ruwer $10 Lemon bars, peaches, graham crackers, and lime fruit loops; the smorgasbord that is the ’06 Dr. L Riesling. This viscous Riesling is a great date opener, hitting your sweetheart’s weak spot; her sweet tooth.

SPAIN José Pariente Verdejo 2005 Rueda, Spain $13

If you’ve been drinking Sauvignons non-stop and you don’t think you can stomach another one this summer, try a Verdejo. This slightly sweet wine is ﬁlled with tropical fruit. The palate with ultra ripe grapes and simple syrup turns to a nutty cheese on the ﬁnish. Check it out, but drink it soon, the acidity seems to be on its way out.

Bodegas Breton Criadores ‘Loriñon’ 2004 White Rioja, Spain

If you like oak, you like whites, but you’re not a huge American Chard person, you’ve met your match. This buttery white has some lemon and lime fruit. It also has tons of vanilla and very tasteful but very apparent toasty oak, leading to a very creamy ﬁnish. There’s not many cases made so make sure to buy it all if you see it.

Bodegas La Purisma ‘Estio’ 2006

Yecla, Spain $9 Made from Macabeo, the grape used in white Rioja and one of the blending grapes in Cava, this wine makes a great alternative to Chardonnay. It has green apple, pear, orange rinds, and flowers on the nose with a tasty, predominantly citrus fruit palate.

Another great rosé but very unique in style. This is a dry and earthy wine with wet leaf, dirt, and mineral flavors with a bunch of oak on the tail end. This would be a great bottle to have on a hot day along side some food with cheese and truffles or mushrooms.

Emilio Lustau ‘Emilin’ Moscatel Sherry Jerez, Spain $22

Is there anything cooler or more old school than a glass of Sherry and a cigar after dinner? I think not. The moral of the story is that you should spend less on food and buy this Sherry. Next time you boil some ramen, take the ‘Emilin’ up to the rooftop and enjoy its sweet viscous body with intense prune, toffee, and butterscotch flavors inbetween puffs of your corner-store bought cigar.

PORTUGAL Casa de Santar Tinto 2003 Dão, Portugal $8

If you’re looking for value in red wines, you need look no further than the Portuguese section of your local wine shop. This $8 bottle is a surprisingly complex red with aromas of oak, salami, and a match that’s just been blown out. It has slightly sweet cherry fruit with some smokiness on the palate, leading to a short but pleasant ﬁnish.

-Champagne Montaudon Brut $31.99 Net -Long Beach Shiraz Rose $4.99 -Cantina Gries Pinot Grigio $10.99 -St. Magdalena Lagrein Rosato $15.50 -Colin Bourisset Cremant de Bourgogne ‘French Sparkling’ $15.95 -Champagne Bollinger Special Cuvee $49.99 Net -Champagne Duval Leroy $29.99 Net -Champagne Taittinger Brut La Francaise $39.99 Net -Champagne Pol Roger ‘Extra Cuvee de Reserve’ $41.99 Net

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