SNOW Magazine 2015 High Season by SNOW

CORTINA COMFORTS ASPEN EXTREMES

LE ROSEY EXPOSED SWITZERLAND’S MOST EXCLUSIVE SKI SCHOOL

SNOW BUNNY ETIQUETTE

HIGH SEASON 2015 EIGHT DOLLARS

The greatest lessons come from where we find freedom. Far away from four walls, routine and repetition, our mind grows in the wild and wide open. Where we always return home sharper, smarter, inspired.

Watch how Aspen Mountain inspires the mind and get the best deals for your next trip at aspensnowmass.com/mindbodyspirit

A : T J D AV I D P : MATT PO WER

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www.sportalm.at

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GORSUCH

THE JOURNEY is our passion. The DISCOVERY is our INSPIRATION. THE

ADVENTURES

are what we cherish.

A LIFETIME of shared dreams & memories. From our FAMILY to yours.

–the Gorsuch Family

VA I L

B E AV E R C R E E K

A SP E N

SN OW M A S S

K EYST O N E

PA R K C I T Y

G O R SU C H . C OM

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CONFIDENT WHEN IT MATTERS

There is only one way to experience the sublime quality of Bomber skis – firsthand. Handcrafted in an artisan race lab in Italy, every pair is the ultimate blend of craftsmanship and technology. And whether you’re a novice or an expert, a racer or a powder maven, we invite you to discover the exhilaration of passion and performance. There’s nothing like it. Bomber Ski – an official supplier to the U.S. and Canadian Ski Teams.

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reserve your front row seat to the Greatest Snow on Earth.

HIGH SEASON 2015

CONTENTS 102 BE DAZZLED!

Fight the brrrrr with bedazzling fur, liqueur, and a handsome monsieur.

116 Coming up rosey Royals, aristocrats, scions of screen stars... they are the students of a Swiss ski boarding school titled Le Rosey.

124 Snow days, grappa nights Skiing and savoring Italy’s bellissima Cortina d’Ampezzo.

ON THE COVER Gorgeous Guisela in a fur jacket, parka and pants by SOS. Earrings, necklace and ring by Mish. Skis by Bomber. THIS PAGE Guisela wearing an outer jacket by Duvetica, inner jacket by Marmot, and pants by Skea. Camera by Hasselblad. Photos: Anthony Friend Stylist: Shifteh Shahbazian See Be Dazzled! Page 102.

With legendary powder, more than 100 diverse trails and one of the best ski resorts in north america at your doorstep, adventure beckons from all paths. Our refined ski-in/ski-out retreat invites you to roast s’mores slope-side, enjoy hot chocolate on our après-ski terrace or peruse the treasures of historic downtown park city. indoors, indulge in a couple’s massage in our 35,000-square-foot alpine-inspired spa Montage, savor fresh fare in one of four restaurants or revel in a rousing game of bowling or billiards at Daly’s pub & rec. Just 36 miles from salt lake city international airport, Montage Deer Valley places you center stage for magical mountain memories. (888) 604-1301 • montagedeervalley.com

22 D e e r Va l l e y

B e V e r ly H i l l s

l ag u na Be ac H

K a p a l u a B a y (Debuting early 2014)

To preview residential opportunities and our other destinations, visit montagehotels.com.

high season 2015

46 Bottle 60 The Little Nell’s young master sommelier is the toast of Aspen.

TABLE 64 Bonez heats the streets of Crested Butte.

APRÈS 68

For a hot shot, try a Queenstown espresso martini.

SKI TOWN SECRETS 70 How to do Vail/Beaver Creek during February’s FIS Alpine World Ski Championships.

SNOW SUITES 74 Scarp Ridge Lodge is tailor‑made for skiers.

HELI 78 Stellar heli-skiing and tasty wine touring in Chile’s Andes.

124

116

urban escapeS 88

Whistler art, gourmet à la St. Moritz, Hollywood’s latest ski films, and how to prepare for après-ski.

Practicing Do-Re-Mi and the Minuet in C on the slopes of Salzburg, Austria.

Snow Style 44

Getting to know Aspen’s badass boutique owner and Authier designer, Lee Keating.

Snow Gear 52

Hollywood’s E.J. Foerster on making snow, movies, and skis.

Snow Flurries 33

Hot pinks, citrus greens, animal prints, and skiwear fit for Royals.

SNOW CULTURE 84

Boutique 92

SNOW QUEEN 98

Ideal women’s skis: they do everything!

Move over Mother Nature. Make room for Andrea Mead Lawrence.

Wellness 56

Last Run 136

007 cool meets Asian Zen in a spa in snowy Switzerland.

A Snow Bunny’s book of etiquette.

ORNATO Icona Collection 441, East Hopkins Avenue, Aspen, CO 81611, (970) 544 8303

buccellati.com

PUBLISHER Barbara Sanders CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Anne-Marie Boissonnault annemarie@thesnowmag.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Lori Knowles lori@thesnowmag.com

Art director

Laura Doherty

Follow your passion to your dream

special event director

Joan Valentine COPY editor

Shelley Preston Digital Director

Julius Yoder SNOW STYLISTs

Shifteh Shahbazian Styling assistants

Brandon Brinkley, Sandra Dolfino, Anna Kontokosta, Gete Solomon. CONTRIBUTORS

get snow everywhere you go Download Snow Magazine’s new app on iTunes, Google Play, or Zinio.

Leslie Anthony, Megan Barber, Erica Duecy, Peter Kray, Hilary Nangle, Meredith Ogilvie‑Thompson, Peggy Shinn, Rob Story, Steven Threndyle, Amiee White Beazley, Leslie Woit. contributing photographers

Daniela Federici, Mattias Fredriksson, Anthony Friend, Gerald Sanders, Will Wissman. SNOW INTERNs

Kelly Allen, Robina Palm.

Advertising sales SALES DIRECTOR

Barbara Sanders (970) 948-1840 barb@thesnowmag.com sales manager

Debbie Topp (905) 770-5959 debbiejtopp@hotmail.com

brand publisher www.yqbmedia.com President Anne-Marie Boissonnault art director Andrée-Anne Hamel graphic designers Jennifer Campbell, Laura Doherty, Audrey Geoffroy-Plante. managing editor Dominique Laflamme staff editor Caroline Décoste project managers Amélie Côte, Kathleen Forcier. SNOW Magazine is published by SNOW Productions, LLC and takes all possible precautions to ensure factual accuracy in its pages. It is not responsible for errors in the information published. Suggested retail prices printed in the magazine are subject to change without notice. All reproduction, in full or in part, is forbidden without the written permission of SNOW Productions, LLC. The opinions expressed in this magazine are those of the writers and do not necessarily represent the opinions of the publisher. Copyright © SNOW Magazine, 2014.

Apple, the Apple logo, and iPad, are trademarks of Apple Inc., registered in the U.S. and other countries. App Store is a service mark of Apple Inc.

This product is from sustainably managed forests and controlled sources.

Vail, Colorado 800.338.6303 skealimited.com

Photo: Gerald Sanders

publisher’s note

Since 1923 www.colmar.it

club de ski

Big hair, bear traps and all

In Coming Up Rosey (page 116), Leslie Woit has opened the heavy doors to the privileged world of a snowy Swiss boarding school where ski proficiency is a requisite for graduation. It has been said that in business, the most important decisions are made on golf courses and ski slopes. From Le Rosey, a student leaves not only with ski skills polished, but with a contact list filled with the names of future rulers, Royals, and captains of industry. And finally, for this High Season edition of SNOW, South African photographer Anthony Friend shot a Scavullo-esque fashion editorial we’ve titled Be Dazzled! (page 102). Part Vogue Italia, part 1980s Cosmopolitan, the feature’s ski and après-ski looks illustrate that life is better with big hair. If only we would pull off our helmets, shake out our long tresses, and look this fabulous!

Adrien Theaux

o be a skier is to gain immediate admittance into an exclusive club, one that is part sporting society, part private clique. There is no membership committee— everyone who wants to slide and play in the snow is immediately welcomed into this Club de Ski. There are, however, a number of somewhat Herculean tasks that club members must complete before their annual snow pilgrimages. First there are resort decisions to make, then, air tickets and accommodations to book. Next, finer plans need to be made regarding ski outfits, gear, accessories, lift tickets, ski pros, dinner reservations, massage appointments... A ski trip is not an easy holiday; you don’t just throw some clothes in your bag and off you go. Perhaps the time and energy put into the experience are what makes it that much more rewarding. In this edition of SNOW, we feature the people and places that make membership in this Club de Ski so unique and compelling. Peggy Shinn pays tribute to American ski legend and environmentalist Andrea Mead Lawrence (page 98). I had the privilege of knowing Andrea, and I’m still in touch with her son Cordy and daughter Didi. Their mother the Olympian was a person who knew who she was and what she wanted, from winning ski races to protecting her beloved Sierras. Next, there’s Cortina (page 124). Ah... Cortina! The name alone fills me with longing for all aspects of this Italian beauty, from its snow-covered Dolomiti peaks, to its nightly fashion parade, entitled the passeggiata. Let us not forget Cortina’s pasta, formaggio, vino, and Grappa. Leslie Anthony’s story, paired with sublime photography by Mattias Fredriksson, has unleashed a driving desire to book myself on the next flight.

Let it SNOW!

Colmar LAB - Beaver Creek, CO Hansen’s - Encinitas, CA High Country Ski & Tennis - Livingston, NJ King Keyser Sporting Goods - Hinsdale, IL Norse House Ski & Sport - Bondville, VT Outdoor Action Company - Sylvan Lake, MI Pedigree Ski Shop - White Plains, NY Peter Glenn Ski & Sport - Miami, FL Sports LTD - Woodland Hills, CA Ski Barn - Paramus, Wayne, Lawrenceville and Shrewsbury, NJ Sundown Ski & Snowboard - Greenvale, NY Valbruna - Vail, CO Winterfell - Stowe, VT P

Barbara Sanders, Publisher barb@thesnowmag.com

contributors

SNOW talent Q: WHAT’S HOLLYWOOD’S BEST SKI MOVIE?

ROB STORY

LESLIE ANTHONY

LORI KNOWLES

WRITER, DREAM BIG, page 84

WriteR,

editor,

Rob Story is a correspondent for Outside Magazine and writes for a variety of other halfway decent titles. He has been published in Men’s Journal, Esquire, Cosmopolitan, Penthouse, American Way, and Rolling Stone. He’s the author of two books, Telluride Storys (Lulu.com) and Outside Adventure Travel: Mountain Biking (WW Norton). Rob, who profiles Aspen Extreme producer E.J. Foerster for this edition of SNOW, doesn’t believe Aspen is any more extreme than his home: Telluride, Colorado.

SNOW DAYS,

snow magazine

LESLIE WOIT WRITER, COMING UP ROSEY, page 116

Leslie Woit, freelance travel writer and avid collector of small soaps, has contributed to various North American and U.K. publications including Condé Nast Traveler, The Independent and The Telegraph. In her spare time, Ms. Woit has blogged her way around the Swiss Alps with The Sherlock Holmes Society of London in character, and quite believably, as Lady Hilda Trelawney-Hope. She spent a summer in rubber boots as a milkmaid in an Austrian highmountain hut. As a Canadian Ski Instructors Alliance Level 2, she taught in Canada and briefly in Gstaad. It was there she first brushed up against the pupils of Le Rosey, haunting the pistes of Saanenmoser and the dance floor of GreenGo’s. 30

always been my favorite. First, it’s serious; second, it’s a great piece of writing; third, it’s art that some fool called the “Greatest sports movie ever made.” Also, you can’t beat the Beat Generation tagline “How fast does a man have to go to get from where he is?”

A: Most directors try to make us believe their lead actresses are expert skiers. But in Bridget Jones: The Edge of Reason, director Beeban Kidron let hapless Ms. Jones careen down the slopes of Lech, Austria, spinning and beatering and making me spit my popcorn. Bridget’s best maudlin line: “She’s got legs up to here... My legs only come up to here!”

MATTIAS FREDRIKSSON

Steven Threndyle

photographer,

WriteR,

SNOW DAYS,

BUZZ WORTHY,

gRAPPA NIGHTS,

page 36

GRAPPA NIGHTS, page 124

A : Downhill Racer has

page 124

A : Aspen Extreme! It’s rad,

old-school skiing mixed with a cheezy story and it takes place in Aspen, how can you not love it?! Editor’s Message: Mattias, you’ll love our Dream Big, Aspen Extreme profile on page 84.

A : On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. I’m not sure how many Red Bull skiers could handle getting strafed by machine gun fire, but James Bond does... and the chase takes place at night!

Illustration: Ann Howard Design, annhowardesign.wordpress.com

SNOW flurries

Art-ful Dining, Les Arcs à la Hollywood, The 10th Mountain Division, Après-ski Delights, Caviar in St. Moritz Illustration: The Vermont Ski and Snowboard Museum’s latest exhibit: Slope Style; Fashion on Snow 1930-2014 See page 34

snow flurries

ART TO DINE FOR Photo: Joern Rohde

histler’s Pacific Northwest is a colorful place. From its verdant trees, to its blue sea, to the lively characters on its slopes, this BC resort is devilishly spirited. All this color is reflected vibrantly at The Bearfoot Bistro. Known for its white Alba truffles, a 20,000-bottle wine collection, the Belvedere Ice Room serving sub-zero-degree vodka, and its charismatic restaurateur, André Saint-Jacques (who can saber 21 Champagne bottles in less than a minute— the Guinness Book of World Records holder),—The Bearfoot is as lively as Whistler’s steeps. Stepping into this hipster spot is to step into a riot of color. On its walls is a boldly curated collection of abstracts and expressive landscapes with shades so energetic they fire you up. Guests are greeted by the maître d’ with a wine menu and an art menu—one that covers the unlikely gallery’s contemporary works—namely, large-scale installations by Stewart Stephenson. The Vancouver-based painter is one of Canada’s best-selling artists of abstract works and is known widely for his composition, vivacious use of color, and flawless resin finishes. Installations include the eye-catching, large-format pieces from Stephenson’s Flower “Sass” Series, which, says the art menu, “invites the viewer to look at the beauty of daily life with a slight smile, capturing the fleeting moment, which reminds us to absorb the wonder of what surrounds us.” Stephenson’s vivid Geode Series, also on Bearfoot’s walls, feature abstract representations of natural British Columbia rock formations. “These large-scale, high-gloss paintings combine organic elements with rich textures, and explosive colors. A strong focal point in the center of Stephenson’s Geode paintings draws viewers in, emphasizing the magnetism of the natural world”— how Whistler-esque! The colors in Bearfoot’s featured art—warm golds, electric turquoises, and resplendent reds—are bright, bold, compelling, even thrilling... almost as much as skiing Spanky’s on Blackcomb

Mountain or Whistler’s grand Symphony Bowl. This riot of color— which, by the way, art lovers are able to purchase—is in direct contrast with Bearfoot’s classic décor. The restaurant’s director of marketing, Marc Des Rosiers—who, along with Saint-Jacques, approached Stephenson to mix Bearfoot’s fine dining with fine art—sums it up: “A visitor’s initial reaction is to stop and stare. Stephenson’s use of size, abstracts, and vibrant colors... well, it’s a style that seems to please most of our guests.” —Lori Knowles WWW.BEARFOOTBISTRO.COM

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT

Stewart Stephenson’s paintings: 1. David Bowie & the Spiders from Mars Crush the Tables in Vegas 2. Sneaking Thru the Alley With Sally 3. Cloud 10 4. Barcelona & Madrid

Slope Style

From gabardine to Gore-Tex, the Vermont Ski and Snowboard Museum tracks ski fashion in Slope Style, its latest vintage exhibit. WWW.VTSSM.COM

M. Miller luxury skiwear made in the USA mmillerfur.com

Photos: courtesy of Magnolia Pictures

www.mountainforce.com

snow flurries

Soon enough, the powder cloud settles and mom and the kids pop out from under the table. Dad shows up an uncomfortable amount of time later. The sun comes out, they finish lunch and return to their condo, and their happy ski vacay continues. Except that it doesn’t, and the real Force Majeure becomes the enormous gulf between Tomas, who has his version of the events, and Ebba, who feels betrayed by her husband’s cowardice. Force Majeure’s exploration of family themes and crises falls somewhere between The Impossible and National Lampoon’s Family Vacation. It’s both a careful psychological examination of how any one of us might react when confronted with disaster and an ironically humorous story that will resonate with any family who has spent a week cooped up together in a ski condo. If anything, husband Tomas proves that you can, indeed, run in ski boots.

he ski world is buzzing with the possibility that the legendary story of America’s 10th Mountain Division will finally get the blockbuster treatment it deserves. Variety magazine announced that ski cine icon Robert Redford plans to produce a film based on ski writer Peter Shelton’s book Climb to Conquer, which chronicles how the rough-and-ready mix of displaced Europeans, Ivy League enlistees, and homegrown outdoorsmen coalesced into a formidable fighting unit to battle the Nazis during World War II. Those who survived, like Vail founder Pete Seibert and Nike co-founder Bill Bowerman, returned home to build many of this country’s ski resorts, establish environmental ethics, and set the world’s standards for mountain climbing and methods for ski instruction. Don’t buy your popcorn yet though, as one person close to the project said, “I’m keeping my fingers crossed until it’s actually done.”

—Steven Threndyle

—Peter Kray

Buzz Worthy

he most buzz-worthy ski movie of 2014 was not the latest Sherpas Cinema or Warren Miller release, but Force Majeure, a film by acclaimed Norwegian director Ruben Ostlund. Unlike standard action-hero ski porn, Force Majeure is about a true-to-life family taking a ski vacation in Les Arcs, France. It’s been a big hit on the film festival circuit; holding its own with artier fare by David Cronenberg and Cédric Jimenez. The premise is an intriguing one— a Norwegian family is dining al fresco alpinismo when an avalanche rumbles down and almost takes out the patio. In that heart-stopping moment when full force of the slide is about to hit, Tomas, the husband, takes his gloves, iPhone, and helmet and scampers to safety while his kids scream, “Daddy, Daddy!” (Lest anyone think that such things don’t happen, one might recall a deadly avalanche in Galtur, Austria, which wiped out parts of an entire town).

The 10th

Photo: Denise Lilly

ith a foreword penned by Lindsey Vonn and an unfathomable 350-plus pages of cheesy, savory, sugary, garlicky small-plate, dessert, and cocktail recipes, Jennie Iverson’s splendid new cookbook, Ski Town Après Ski, made the scene for the start of the 2015 season. Just in time, too. The thought of passing one more winter without Pepi Gramshammer’s secret to kaiserschmarrn— an Austrian, and now Vail, delicacy—is too much for the après-addicted skier to bear. Add to that Sunday River’s camp lobster sliders, Snowbasin’s nachos, Sun Valley’s oven-roasted bacon Brussels sprouts, the green chili and white cheddar mac ‘n’ cheese from Snowmass, oh!—and Steamboat’s strawberry Brie bruschetta... and, well, let’s just say, it’s going to be some good eatin’ back at the chalet after skiing this season.

In this follow-up to her last ski food project, Ski Town Soups, author Iverson has mastered the painstaking-if-enviable task of procuring—and, one assumes, sampling—belly-warming après recipes from a breathtaking number of North American ski areas from the Atlantic to the Pacific. There are cocktail recipes in there, too, which is a beautiful bonus. But the best aspect of the book, aside from Monarch’s cheesy jalapeno poppers, is Iverson’s recipe rating system: Easiest, More Difficult, Most Difficult, of which are marked with circles, squares, and diamonds at every drop-in. Sound familiar? P.S.—A portion of the book’s proceeds go to Ski Club Vail to help raise new Lindsey Vonns. —Lori Knowles WWW.SKISOUP.COM

a winter art walk

n the first Friday evening of each month, sleigh bells and merriment break the snow-hushed silence of Kingfield, the rural, Victorian, blink-of-a-village anchoring Sugarloaf, 15 winding Maine miles away. From 5-8 p.m., about a dozen downtown businesses, including galleries and nonprofits such as the Stanley Museum and the Ski Museum of Maine, open for Kingfield Winter Art Walk. Each venue showcases works by local artists, artisans, writers, poets, and musicians and offers complementary refreshments. Kendrick Charles’ horse-drawn carriage loops the sites. This season, according to Cynthia Orcutt of the Schoolhouse Gallery, art may spill onto the streets with a snow-sculpture contest or an ArtSki/Snowshoe that encourages attendees to wear costumes. —Hilary Nangle

WWW.KINGFIELDUSA.COM

Photo: swiss-image.ch/Andy Mettler

snow flurries

Green Circle Goodness

BET ON IT

t’s been 150 years since the Brits invented wintersports, putting the farming village of St. Moritz—now trademarked as a luxury brand—on the inter national style map. It all started with a bet: in 1864 hotelier Johannes Badrutt wagered his English summer guests that they’d enjoy ample Engadine sunshine if they came back in winter. Back they came: snow and glamour, together forever. To honor the sesquicentennial, the renowned St. Moritz Gourmet Festival (January 26-30) has declared their 15th annual event the “British Edition,” with nine master chefs from Great Britain coming spoon in hand to cook their magic at hotels and restaurants around town. Leading the team is UK’s Angela Hartnett, who has recently opened her own Michelin-starred restaurant, Murano in London’s Mayfair. The founder of the festival is Reto Mathis. His mid-mountain La Marmite is a St. Moritz icon— famous for tarte flambé with truffles and ‘Corviglia snow’, caviar on a delicate ‘snow’ of mashed potatoes. What is the festival to Mathis? “A unique dining experience within a 10-minute walk without having to travel the world.” —Leslie Woit WWW.STMORITZ-GOURMET FESTIVAL.CH/EN

daleofnorway.com

snow flurries

heat it Photo: Poma

Okemo Mountain Resort vows to make us hot this winter. The Vermont mountain is the first in the American East to debut the ultimate mountain amenity: a $6.9-million, bright orange, heated bubble chair that whisks skiers 1,670 feet up the hill in fewer than seven minutes. You may never head inside for an Oaxaca Chaka cocktail again, as this six-pack chairlift offers a plush, heated seat and a retractable, transparent dome to protect skiers from the elements. Similar to the over-the-top Orange Bubble Express at Utah’s Canyons Resort— America’s first heated chair when it debuted in 2010—the Okemo version comes complete with its own heated barn at the base to store its cushy new seats. Now that’s luxury. —Megan Barber

Photo: Jason Dewey

Photo: Rocky Maloney

WWW.OKEMO.COM

Photo: Sun Valley Resort

Aspen Meadows Resort

Stein Eriksen Lodge

WWW.STEINLODGE.COM

Former U.S. Ski Team member Jack Turner has launched the Ski Nation mobile app featuring updated snow conditions, trail reports, maps, photos, and resort information for more than 950 ski areas in North America. Skiers can also collect free digital pins to track the places they’ve been. “It’s the modern version of old-school ski pin collecting,” says Turner. “They’re in one place, won’t get lost, and digital ski pins don’t rust.”

WWW.SUNVALLEY.COM

WWW.SKINATION.COM

REFRESH IT

SOAK IT

Sun Valley Lodge

John Perry, “while still being warm and inviting.” Finally, Idaho’s Sun Valley Lodge has re-opened following a summer of renovations that have greatly enlarged guests baths and suites, added a spa and pool with spectacular Sun Valley views, and re-styled both its restaurant and the Lodge’s iconic bar, Duchin’s. WWW.ASPENMEADOWS.COM

Japan’s Niseko may be famed for its snow—49 feet per year— but it’s Niseko’s onsens (hot springs) that garner true wonder. Ki Niseko, the region’s latest hotel within a skier’s push and a glide from the high-speed gondola, has two public onsens both indoors and out. Out of doors, Ki’s all-star mineral-rich water is collected in stone rotenburo baths. Saunas and plunge pools complement this rich Japanese experience—for those seeking privacy, Ki allows families to book one of two private onsens. WWW.KINISEKO.COM

Photo: www.kiniseko.com

hree of North America’s most iconic ski lodges have refreshed themselves for Winter 2015. Aspen Meadows Resort, home to the Aspen Institute, has upgraded and updated its signature Bauhaus-style décor, enhancing its place within 40 acres of untouched alpine wilderness. Park City’s Stein Eriksen Lodge, which remains the only Forbes 5-Star hotel and spa in Utah, consistently maintains its AAA 5-diamond hotel rating with enrichments. This season’s $8-million renovation style by Juxtapose is mountain luxe. “The designer’s vision was a modern luxurious feel,” says spokesperson

pin it

snow flurries

SNOWcieties PASS THE BUCK OR PASS THE PUCK? TAOS AND BANFF HAVE TWO VERY DIFFERENT TAKES ON COWBOY SKI CULTURE

Ballet at the Banff Centre High Tea drink: The Hi Ball Watch out for: Elk

Taos

Photo: Don Lee

Banff

Art by El Moises

Iconic ski lodge: Chateau Lake Louise

Iconic adobe lodge: Taos Country Inn

Watch out for: Wild Horses

When you’re not skiing... you play hockey

Canadiana ski: Snowday

Après-ski sip: Chile-infused margarita

Taos all-mountain board: Kastle MX98 Pulp Fiction celeb: John Travolta

Boot of choice: Ugg

Pretty Woman celeb: Julia Roberts Hat of choice: Cowboy

Canadiana coat: Moose Knuckles

When you’re not skiing... you go fly fishing

Luxury SUV: GMC Terrain Denali 42

Local crooner: Dan Mangan

Photo: Bachi Mahula

What to wear: Patagonia

Local talent: Last to Know

Road Runner: Toyota Four Runner

snow style

fendi

vuarnet

royal blues

M. Miller

Got the blues? The Royals do, and now so does St. Moritz-style après‑skiing By the snow fashion editors

NOBIS

chaos/lux parajumpers

fusalp

Basso

perfect moment

snow style

WHEN’S THE LAST TIME, YOU DID SOMETHING FOR THE FIRST TIME?

leisure society

HELLO KITTY

anna trzebinski

No matter where you’ve skied around the world, skiing here makes it new again.

GOLDBERGH

The Canadian Rockies, 2,000 square miles of protected wilderness, over 30 feet of snowfall and Canada’s original mountain town make this an experience like

Purr-fect prints run all over this season’s sexy haute-ski-couture. Meow!

no other. 3 world class ski resorts—Mt. Norquay, the Lake Louise Ski Resort and Sunshine Village—attract people worldwide to rediscover the joy they felt the very first time. Because here in the only protected mountain

By the snow fashion editors

resort on Earth, nature rules. BanffLakeLouise.com sportlam

moncler

buccellati

toni sailer

pajar JET SET

VIST

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esky flavor

HELLO HOTTIE

SKEA

J.LINDEBERG

Hot pink and riveting orange shine bright against the snow. Go aheadâ&#x20AC;Ś radiate, you skiing hottie By the snow fashion editors

superdry

halti

bogner

Banff Lake Louise Tourism / Paul Zizka Photography

helly hansen

located at 7,200 feet, the sunshine Mountain lodge provides 360 degree panoramic canadian rocky Mountain views in the heart of sunshine Village ski and snowboard resort.

Dale of norway mountain force

Josh Robertson

hermĂ&#x2C6;s

adam locke

ExpEriEncE thE canadian rockiEs in Banff national park,

a UnEsco World hEritagE sitE.

1-87-ski-banff (1-877-542-2633) www.skibanff.com

snow style

FIND

Elan

kask

YO U R DREAMS

IN ALASKA’S LEGENDARY CHUGACH MOUNTAINS.

go green Get the green light on the slopes this winter!

ALASKA

bergans of norway

HELI SKI

By the snow fashion editors

N59 ° 2 6 ’ 16 ” W-15 1° 4 2 ’ 41”

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We take the hassle out of Alaskan helicopter skiing and let you focus on the powder. Get to Anchorage with your ski boots - we'll take care of everything else. We provide the transportation from Anchorage, deluxe lodging, gourmet dining, full bar and wine cellar, on-site helicopters, guides, powder skis, beacons, airbags, and world class terrain.

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COLMAR

snow gear

www.nils.us

clockwise from bottom right

1. Nordica’s Wild Belle. 2. Dynastar’s Cham W 97. 3. Völkl’s Kenja. 4. Blizzard’s Sheeva.

You’re headed on a seven-day ski vacation to a big mountain that has a bit of everything... freshly groomed corduroy, tight tree skiing, and hopefully some powder-filled bowls. Which skis do you pack? In 2015, female skiers have a plethora of choices from big-mountain fat skis to super-strong rippers built for speed. Gone are the days when a solitary pair of (very pink) skis stood alone in a woman’s quiver, so whether you want to pack a ski for every forecast or bring your all-mountain go-to, this year’s skis have you covered.

DOEVERYTHING SKIS MULTITASKING IS KEY FOR WOMEN ON THE MOVE, THAT’S WHY NEW WOMEN’S SKIS CAN GO ANYWHERE, DO EVERYTHING By MEGAN BARBER

Ladies, These Skis Do Everything

Regardless of their shape or size, the skis of 2015 are better at most everything. Traditional definitions (alpine, freeride, powder) are blending into the all-mountain category and this year skiers can expect to see rocker (also called reverse camber) technology in almost any downhill ski, even in all‑mountain workhorses like Rossignol’s new Temptation 88. Using Rossignol’s Auto Turn Rocker, the Temptation has rocker in the tips and the tail to help you float better in powder, initiate turns easily, and still provide enough camber underfoot for stability and control. And while skis like the Temptation are opting for rocker on both ends, other companies have embraced “early rise” technology—a ski has tip rocker but a regular tail. One of the best in the early rise category for 2015 is Dynastar’s Cham W 97. It’s 25 percent lighter this year, but can still manage everything from powder to hard pack without getting rattled. Nordica jumps in with its camROCK technology for its women’s all-mountain Belle series skis. The new tech promises to increase float, velocity and maneuverability in soft snow. Even traditional powder skis are better in all types of snow. Powder hounds will love Blizzard’s new, twin-tipped Sheeva. At only 104 millimeters (4.1 inches) underfoot, the ski performs light years better on groomers and in tight trees than the older generation of powder skis.

snow gear

Carving Skis Are Ba-aaack

Whichever type of ski you pick, you can expect most skis to feel lighter.

While super fat powder skis may have been a hot item in the past, in 2015, technical carving skis are making a comeback. Völkl’s high‑performance Kenja incorporates a wood core reinforced with metal and fiberglass to create a responsive, experts-only ski that will rip down groomers. Likewise, Blizzard’s completely redesigned Viva 810 TI IQ proves that a carving ski is worth adding to your quiver; complete camber underfoot provides tons of edge control and Blizzard’s IQ binding interface makes a return this year to yield efficient power transfer from skier to ski. While all-mountain skis are sure to remain some of the most popular sticks on the hill, new tech is making groomers just as fun as the deep snow.

Skis That Are Lightweight, Yet Responsive

left to right

1. Blizzard’s Viva 810 TI. IQ. 2. Head’s Total Joy. 3. Elan’s Twilight Collection. 4. Rossignol’s Savory 7.

Whichever type of ski you pick, you can expect most skis to feel lighter. With more people venturing into the backcountry, lighter skis mean easier, more efficient travel. Products like Rossignol’s Savory 7 clock in at a reasonable 3.8 kilograms (8.3 pounds) this year and combine an ultralight construction with good backcountry powder performance and all-mountain versatility. And even if the backcountry isn’t in your wheelhouse, women’s skis aren’t just men’s skis painted pink. Known for producing some of the lightest skis around, Elan has coined the term “light‑skiing” to categorize their low-weight products. For 2015, Elan’s Twilight Collection comes in three different sizes to accommodate various

styles of skiers and all measure in at an impressive 1 kilogram (2.2 pounds) per ski. Women can now get the strength and versatility of a high‑performance ski without lugging around extra weight.

For The Joy of Skiing

The desire for skis to be both lighter and stronger has prompted companies to invest in new materials, the most impressive of which is Head’s new Graphene technology. A super-strong carbon also used in Head’s tennis rackets, Graphene is 100 times stronger than steel and is making waves for its lightweight ski applications. Head has incorporated Graphene into all six of their Joy series skis for 2015, combining über-thin carbon with lightweight wood or a composite core to create an extra sturdy, stiff, and responsive lineup. Try the Head Big Joy for powdery steeps or check out the Head Total Joy for a versatile ski that will thrive on any snowpack.

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Where Will Women’s Skis Go Next?

With recent technology mixing rocker tips with traditional camber to create impressive all-mountain machines, it’s likely that future, do-everything skis will handle variable conditions with ease. And based on the number of women’s alpine skis labeled as lightweight, we can expect to see continued innovation in extra-strong, lightweight materials like Graphene. The skis of tomorrow will take us from family turns on the bunny hill to a 45-degree, no-fall chute, all without skipping a beat. Just don’t expect them to be covered in flowers.

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THE CHEDI: AN EASTERN-TINGED SPA IN THE SNOWY SWISS ALPS

Photo: The Chedi Andermatt

wellness

Yin meets yang

adding up an elegantly arched staircase doused in white light, the gaze lingers over a giant Michelangelo mural depicting the Hand of God. As an opener for a spa treatment, that’s brave. At The Chedi—the new 70-million-Swiss-franc, five-star shrine to alpine decadence— it’s also prophetic. The sleepy Swiss village of Andermatt, at the crossroads of two mighty mountain passes leading from north to south and from east to west, was transformed last season into an Eastern-tinged spa heaven. The hotel’s 104 spacious alpine-chic rooms and suites are matched by no fewer than 208 fireplaces, nine of which flank a showcase 115-foot, glass-covered pool whose water is kept a refreshing 79 degrees Fahrenheit. The contras ting air is languidly warm, better to enjoy the decadent daybeds served by waiters delivering fruit shooters, Champagne, and cold towels.

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614 E Durant Ave, Aspen. CO 81611

wellness

There’s more: nearly 26,000 square feet worth. Downstairs, James Bond meets Asian chic with über-sexy and serene pools aflicker in low candlelight, punctuated by a bevy of eucalyptus, bio and Finnish saunas, a scented salt steam bath, a hammam, an ice fountain, and a flower bath. Asian-inspired treatments such as Ayurvedic, Tibetan, and chakra-balancing massages are mindfully administered in 10 spa suites. Rooted in oriental philosophy and based on Asian healing traditions, natural products include ila, REN and Alpienne, an organic line containing oils from plants and fruits found in the mountains towering nearly 10,000 feet above Andermatt. The spa offers the faithfuls (manicures, pedicures, hair-styling) as well as exotica: a jetlagcurative Indian acupressure head massage with juniper and geranium essential oils, a slew of body envelopments with exotic plants and minerals, and a range of bespoke facials featuring approaches from lymphatic drainage to light therapy. Soaked and supple, addressing appetites is the next happy priority. Have a think while raising a glass of something luscious in The Wine & Cigar Library, or The Lobby, or perhaps in The Courtyard, at The Bar, or enveloped in fur in Chedi’s Living Room. Western and Asian cuisine of the highest orders are on the menus in both The Restaurant and The Japanese Restaurant

Photos: The Chedi Andermatt

James Bond meets Asian chic with über-sexy and serene pools aflicker in low candlelight.

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by Hide Yamamoto. Save room for the cheese course, selected from the 16-foot high walk-in glass cheese cellar, paired with one or two of the 5,000-plus wines. Vant to be alone? Book a private dinner party in the Stube, complete with a blacked-out one-way mirror and secret door for truly discreet assignations. Oh! And don’t forget the skiing—Andermatt is keying up to link with nearby Sedrun in a few short years, further modernizing this picturesque portion of the Swiss Alps. Until then, The Chedi supplies a luxurious yin to Andermatt’s yang. WWW.THECHEDI-ANDERMATT.COM

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bottle

Wine for ALL

YOUNG MASTER SOMMELIER CARLTON McCOY HOLDS COURT AT ASPEN’S LITTLE NELL

Photo: Jason Dewey Photography

BY ROB STORY

McCoy’s unrivaled taste in wine has made the Little Nell’s tasting room the talk of Aspen.

nly 29, Carlton McCoy this year became the third youngest person—and only the second African-American—to win a master sommelier diploma from the Culinary Institute of America. Wine & Spirits Magazine named him a Best New Sommelier for 2013. Shortly thereafter, McCoy was promoted to Wine Director of Aspen’s prestigious Little Nell Hotel. For the moment, however, he stands in the Nell’s tasting room preoccupied, not with oenophilic matters but porcine ones. Before McCoy, the back half of a pig rests impassively in its own cured skin. McCoy cuts me a small slice off the animal’s back, explaining, “it’s the finest ham in Spain, Jamon Iberico,” which can sell for more than $90 a pound. It tastes of smoky pork, as well as the pig’s sustainable, protein-rich diet of fresh acorns. Such palate cleansers and McCoy’s unrivaled taste in wine have made the Little Nell’s tasting room the talk of Aspen cognoscenti. Located in a subterranean cellar of the venerable hotel, scarcely larger than a closet, the room can accommodate but six guests at a time (and a single pig). Still, it’s McCoy’s pride and joy. “A wine geek’s dream,” he calls it. The communal table was handcrafted from beetle-killed pine and vintage wine barrels. McCoy describes the constant 50-degree temperature as “good for red wines; bad for oaked whites.”

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His approach as sommelier “Wine is for everyone.”

McCoy—trim and pressed, sporting sleek eyeglasses on a freshly shaved head—shows me the hotel’s 19,000-bottle collection. “Aspen’s a town of transients, people from all over the world, with every imaginable taste. So the wine program at the Little Nell has a long history of high quality. This isn’t some hokey, pretend wine cellar.” The Nell certainly stands a long way from McCoy’s birthplace: “A part of Washington, D.C., that had no wine—just cheap spirits and malt liquor.” While no one in McCoy’s family drank wine, a job with his grandmother’s catering business honed his sense of cuisine. He won a scholarship to the Culinary Institute of America, worked in impressive New York restaurants, and in 2013 took the Advanced Master Sommelier test, which concludes with a blind taste 62

of six wines in 25 minutes, in which the sommelier must determine the wine’s origin, grape, and vintage. Of the 63 candidates at the exam, only McCoy and three others passed. His approach as sommelier is that “Wine is for everyone. Every time I approach a table or talk about wine, it isn’t coming from a place of snobbery or elitism. It’s about figuring out what people like, finding new things guests might like, and spending time with friends and family.” A child of the city, McCoy claims, “I’d never even seen a pair of skis” before arriving in Aspen. But he now skis when he can, and feverishly explores the Elk Mountains in summer, whether cycling or hiking. Indeed, he sometimes chills cru Beaujolais in a mountain stream, and then sips it while soaking in Conundrum Hot Springs. Now that he’s lived here three years, McCoy comprehends Aspen’s hedonistic appeal. As such, he delivers Nell guests “hangover kits” containing granola, dark chocolate, coffee, Red Bull, Brain Toniq, and—for the proverbial “hair of the dog”—vodka from nearby Woody Creek Distillers. WWW.THELITTLENELL.COM Photo: Paul Zizka/Banff Lake Louise Tourism

Photo: Trent Bona

table

JUMP YOUR BONEZ

Shots, Skulls, and Spice on the streets of Crested Butte BY ERICA DUECY

ince opening in June, the Mexican restaurant Bonez has become one of Crested Butte’s hottest tables, serving up margaritas and street-style tacos for hungry skiers. Located just a few minutes off the mountain, on the town’s main drag of Elk Avenue, the popular bar-restaurant has already developed a loyal following. “It’s definitely a place where people like to gather, to come in for a bite and a cocktail at the bar,” says Ben Diem, one of four partners in the restaurant. Diem and the rest of the team—Kyleena Falzone, Carson West, and David Wooding—are longtime Crested Butte restaurateurs who have worked at and partnered in multiple venues over the past decade, including the pizzeria Secret Stash, eclectic‑cuisine Red Room, and former sushi restaurant Lobar. This most recent project was born from the quartet’s own craving for an exceptional Mexican restaurant in town. Their culinary concept was cemented three years ago after throwing a tequila-and-tacos dinner party.

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Photos: Trent Bona

table

Inside, find art of Dia de los Muertos, the Mexican Day of the Dead.

When a lease on the right building came around, the partners launched Bonez. The distinctive skulland skeleton-based art of Dia de los Muertos, the Mexican Day of the Dead celebration, provided inspiration for the restaurant’s decor. “We took the skeletons of a lot of old things—liquor bottles, coffee cans, wooden beams—and reused almost everything we found,” says Ben Diem. “Nearly the entire restaurant is upcycled.” When guests arrive, they immediately look upwards to the 40-foot tall ceilings, and walls lined with books and Day of the Dead trinkets. Local artists have contributed pieces, including a chandelier made from 450 empty liquor bottles, and lighting fixtures crafted from used Folgers coffee cans. The building itself is a historic relic, the skeleton of a coal-storage warehouse called The Powerhouse. “Back in the 1880s, when Crested Butte was a mining town, the plant provided all the coal-burning power to the mining camp nearby,” David Wooding says. The menu, developed by Wooding, focuses on street-style tacos with an upscale twist. Tacos include duck confit with pipian peppers, roasted pork and caramelized pineapple, and the vegetarian “el jardin” with local corn and crispy shallots. Other hit items include queso fundito, a hot skillet bubbling over with melted cheeses, meant for dipping with homemade flour tortillas, and the DIY guacamole, which guests can mix to taste using a 15-pound molcajete delivered to the table. With more than 200 tequilas and mescal and specialty cocktails like the smoky mescal-spiked margarita, Bonez will no doubt heat up Crested Butte’s après-ski scene this winter. Just watch out for the sting of the Scorpion, a habanero pepper-infused margarita: it’s hot! TOP TOP BOTTOM

1. The skull- and skeleton-based art of Dia de los Muertos. 2. Street-style tacos with an upscale twist. 3. DIY guacamole served in a 15-pound molcajete.

QUEENSTOWN’S APRÈS-SKI ENERGIZER

BY ERICA DUECY

The Bunker’s Espresso Martini 1 ½ ounces vanilla vodka 1 ounce coffee liqueur 1 shot fresh espresso ½ tsp manuka or other dark honey Coffee beans Fill a martini glass with ice water, to chill. To an ice-filled shaker, add all ingredients and shake for 15 seconds. Pour ice water from martini glass, and strain contents of shaker into the glass. Garnish with coffee beans.

THE BUNKER, QUEENSTOWN’S MOST REVERED BAR 68

o experience the après-ski scene like a local in Queenstown, New Zealand, take a detour off the main tourist track. Down a back alley and up a nondescript stairwell, you’ll come upon the ski town’s most revered bar, The Bunker. For nearly 20 years, the bar has played host to local revelers with its old-schoolcool style, convivial vibe (bartenders have the inside track on untapped powder stashes), and roaring fireplaces, both indoors and on the patio. Oh, and don’t forget the Espresso Martinis. “It’s by far the most popular cocktail,” says The Bunker owner Cameron Mitchell. “Once you make one, everyone wants one, because you smell the espresso.” The cocktail features vanilla vodka, coffee liqueur, fresh-brewed espresso, and local manuka honey. “It gets you into the mood for the night,” he says. The pick-me-up seems to work quite effectively. By 11 p.m., The Bunker is standingroom only, and it doesn’t empty out until the sun rises on another epic ski day.

www.thebunker.co.nz

Photo: The Bunker

après

the pick-me-up

SKI TOWN SECRETS

VAIL’S WINTER CARNIVAL VAIL & BEAVER CREEK ROLL OUT THE VELVET FOR 2015’s FIS ALPINE WORLD SKI CHAMPIONSHIPS

Photo: Jack Affleck/Vail Resorts

BY SNOW EDITORS

Bode Miller flying through Beaver Creek’s legendary Birds of Prey.

here are those among us who equate the FIS Alpine World Ski Championships on par with—or greater than—the Olympics. Held every two years, these championships—downhill, slalom, GS and Super-G—host 700 skiers from 70 nations, and attract world television audiences of more than one billion. Winners include the greats: Jean Vuarnet, Jean Claude Killy, Tamara McKinney, Stein Eriksen, Nancy Greene, Steve Mahre, and Lindsey Vonn. This season’s Championships—February 2-15, 2015—will be held at Beaver Creek. Considered one of Colorado’s most comfortable resorts, Beaver Creek maintains a high-brow rep for deluxe, ski-in lodging and corduroy slopes—but it’s not all about the cush. Beaver Creek’s Birds of Prey downhill course includes a 40-degree section ominously titled “The Brink” on which downhillers clock fantastic speeds of up to 80 mph. For two weeks in February, Beaver Creek and Vail—its vivacious neighbor— are pulling out the stops to host these FIS Alpine World Ski Championships, offering the world a show, not just of Ted Ligety’s and Mikaela Shiffrin’s prowess on the pistes, but of art, film, music, and food. Think of it as a swank winter carnival with world-class ski racing attached. 70

RACE CENTRAL

Beaver Creek has been designated Race Central, icing its Birds of Prey men’s downhill course to perfection in time for the race on February 7, 2015. The Creek’s new Raptor racecourse for women will run its downhill on February 6. Most other race action is on the slopes of Beaver Creek, except for men’s technical qualification races and the popular Nations Team Parallel GS, which will take place on Vail Mountain’s Golden Peak. All races are free—stadium seating is first come, first serve, with no tickets necessary. During the championships, shuttle bus service between the two resorts is also gratis. Beaver Creek is hosting International Experience Celebrations. Festivities will occur in the International Experience tent, located in the center of Beaver Creek Village, from 12 p.m.-5 p.m. daily Feb. 2-15. Each day will feature a different country or region participating in the races and will showcase cultural food, beverages and entertainment. Entrance is free and open to the public.

PARTY CENTRAL

Evening festivities—including opening and closing ceremonies, plus concerts, films, food and art exhibits—are slated for the streets of Vail by night. The resort is booking daily, big-name outdoor concerts. Sierra Nevada, the event’s official craft beer, will host Winter Camp near the bridge in Vail Village for daily samples and tasting events. Promoters promise that a portion of Vail’s auto-free avenues will be permitted, allowing the party to spill onto the streets. Art and music installations will

SKI TOWN SECRETS

LEFT TO RIGHT

Photo: Chris McLennan/Vail Resorts

Photo: Jack Affleck/Vail Resorts

1. Powder shots through the Colorado glades. 2. Vail at sunset.

pop up in unexpected places such as a four-string quartet on the skating rink in Vail Square and a tuba player on a quad chairlift. Giant screens will broadcast Beaver Creek’s slope action throughout Vail Village. Says organizer Kate Peters: “You’ve heard of tailgating at NFL games, we’re introducing Vailgating.”

DJ CENTRAL

Vail Mountain is bringing back its high-alpine nightclub Décimo during the championship games. Located at 10,250 feet above sea level on Vail Mountain and accessed by a heated gondola, The 10th restaurant will be retrofitted for Décimo’s dance party on February 13. And yes, the nightclub will include VIP tables and bottle service.

LODGING CENTRAL

Gold and silver medalists Phil and Steve Mahre will be skiing and celebrating with guests of the Park Hyatt Beaver Creek Resort during Vail’s championship weeks on and off the slopes. Guests can spend the day on the mountain skiing with the twins, share time over a cocktail, or allow Phil and Steve to act as personal race commentators. The Lodge at Vail, a Rock Resort situated at the base of Vail’s new Gondola One, underwent major interior upgrades just in time for the event. And, with its ski nannies, sumptuous spa, and attentive ski concierge, the Arrabelle at Vail Square provides respite from the race action—it is, after all, Vail’s answer to a grand European ski hotel. WWW.VAILBEAVERCREEK2015.COM

Lunch Luxe

Cookie Time

Sleigh ride to dinner

Hookah Heaven

Escape the race fray: slip your feet into some sumptuous slippers at The 10th, Vail’s velvety mid-mountain restaurant with stunning views of the Gore Range, a cozy bar, and healthy portions of black truffle fries and brick oven pizza.

Don’t miss Cookie Time at Beaver Creek, this daily tradition continues throughout the FIS Alpine World Ski Championships. Chefs in whites appear slopeside to present trays stacked with warm, freshly baked chocolate chip cookies.

Zach’s Cabin at Beaver Creek is situated mid-mountain in a serene grove of aspens—bundle up in a sleigh to reach it. After busy race days, Executive Chef Tim McCaw serves comforting Colorado‑inspired dishes.

Beaver Creek’s Ritz-Carlton at Bachelor Gulch will offer quiet refuge from Championship action in its Bachelors Lounge, a sultry, indoor and heated outdoor space serving handcrafted cocktails, imported cigars, plus a hookah experience—custom-made hookahs filled with loose tobacco in flavors such as pumpkin spice, vanilla, rose, and passion fruit.

snow suites

V ua r n e t THE BEST PROTECTION FOR YOuR EYES

Photo: courtesy of Eleven Experience

SINCE 1957

tailor made

OUTDOOR PURSUITS FROM A COMFY BASE IN CRESTED BUTTE, SCARP RIDGE LODGE BY AMIEE WHITE BEAZLEY

rested Butte’s Scarp Ridge Lodge has lived many lives: saloon, dance hall for Croatian miners, Victorian-era brothel... what self-respecting Colorado mining‑cum‑ski town didn’t have a brothel? Its current life, though, is considerably more respectful. Scarp Ridge Lodge has been rebirthed as a chic and comfortable, seven-bedroom private ski home in the heart of Crested Butte. It is owned and operated by Eleven Experience. 74

Debuted in 2011, the Lodge is the flagship of several Eleven Experience establishments tucked into the far corners of Earth—a chalet in the French Alps, a Colonial beach house in the Bahamas, a farm in Northwest Iceland. Begun by Chad Pike, the concept of all Eleven Experience properties is to present the comforts and amenities of five-star hotels, but with the added extra of guided outdoor pursuits. Each lodge employs professional guides to tailor-make adventures—

naturally snowshoeing, dogsledding, and private cat-skiing rank among Scarp Ridge Lodge’s most popular Colorado activities. While it might look like any other Victorian building on a Crested Butte street, upon entering this unassuming Colorado retreat, guests immediately know they’ve arrived at a special destination. Chad Pike’s partner Blake Pike, a London-based interior designer, has sculpted Scarp Ridge’s interior using raw wood, iron, stone, and weathered

NOW AVAILABLE IN THE BEST SKI SPECIALTY STORES For more information please contact 914.495.3701 or visit www.vuarnet.us

snow suites

Photos: courtesy of Eleven Experience

SUITES

hardwood flooring. The effect is rustic yet chic, a cozy ski home that envelops its guests in comfort after an adventurous day in the backcountry. Scarp Ridge Lodge’s entryway is kitted out with recessed lockers for ski gear, drawers filled with organic snacks, a fire burning warmly in a huge stone fireplace, and water, water everywhere. Upon entry, a down-to-earth staffer is dispatched to welcome guests with a high-altitude-relieving elixir. Or, if they’re up for it, a glass of wine appears from the stocked cellar. As the story is often told, Pike founded Eleven Experience based on his affection for three of his life’s most-favored elements: family, skiing, and fishing. The result, as it plays out at Scarp Ridge, is a ski lodge that feels like home with a healthy level of kindness, service, quality and, naturally, adventure. WWW.ELEVEN EXPERIENCE.COM

Each suite at Scarp Ridge Lodge is a retreat in itself, with a mix of antique and contemporary furnishings, surroundsound speakers in both bedroom and bath, and, nearby, a cozy sitting area for watching television, reading a book, or, if the stars align, a nap after skiing. Each bath features a pewter soaking tub, a steam shower, and Jack Black skincare products. At night, an oxygen enrichment system is enabled in each bedroom to ensure guests don’t experience high-altitude nightmares common with Colorado ski travel.

APRÈS-SKI Adjacent to the Lodge is a private billiards room—exclusively for Scarp Ridge guests— nicknamed “The Whipping Post.” To outsiders “The Post” looks like an old miner’s garage, but inside it’s indulgently stocked with the spirits of your choice, two taps pouring Colorado craft brews, plus a rockin’ jukebox.

CONCIERGE SERVICE With space for 10 guests per night in winter, rental of Scarp Ridge includes exclusive use of the home, pre-arrival vacation planning, and a private concierge, as well as a gourmet breakfast, lunch and afternoon refreshments, plus a photographer during guided activities, such as snowshoeing, cat-skiing, or dogsledding in the Crested Butte backcountry. After a day of rigorous outdoor pursuits, the concierge team can bring in Pilates instructors, masseurs for in-room treatments, or screen a film in the indoor theatre.

ADVENTURE

Pike founded Eleven Experience based on his affection for three of his life’s mostfavored elements: family, skiing, and fishing.

As with all establishments belonging to Eleven Experience, Crested Butte’s Scarp Ridge Lodge services outdoor-active clients. At Scarp Ridge there is a permanent team of professional guides on hand to create bespoke adventure travel itineraries for its guests. Each morning upon waking, a guest’s pre-planned itinerary appears in his or her personal locker. In winter, these adventures are headlined by Eleven Experience’s private cat-skiing operation—access to 1,000 acres and 10,000-plus vertical feet spread generously across Colorado’s Elk Mountains via a high‑end snowcat.

heli

Red Wine, White Caviar FROM VALLE TO VALLEY—HELI-SKIING AND WINE TASTING IN CHILE BY barbara sanders

now is a precious commodity. It’s a bit like caviar—no matter how much money you have, it’s not always available in abundance. Snow is particularly sparse in North America in August, which is why many of us head for the beach. But there are those among us who continue to seek out that white winter caviar, even in summer. We find it in Chile, at Valle Nevado, where a very special combination awaits: heli-skiing paired with fine wine touring.

Photos: Will Wissman

Stellar’s crew prepping to take flight.

On set with Stellar, standing on the divide between El Colorado and Valle Nevado.

Lights, Camera, Action! Heli-skiing with Stellar Adventure Media

There are a few select heli-ski experiences in Chile, but none quite like Stellar Adventure Media. It’s a company owned by two of the biggest names in skiing and photography, one that doubles as an adventure ski and travel op. Co-owner Reggie Crist grew up in Sun Valley, competed on the U.S. Ski Team, and won X Games gold. He’s partnered with Will Wissman, one of the world’s leading ski and outdoor photographers. Their Stellar formula is this: While testing gear, designing equipment, and shooting extreme film footage and photos for sponsors, the two are also guiding and filming a handful of adventuresome guests. The result is a peek inside the world of skiing’s superstars— a scene to which few have access. Guests of Stellar are placed right into the mix. It’s like they are members of the crew—an integral part of the expedition. They’re “on set” during the filming of pro ski action and then they’re heli-ported to ski the same lines that ski-film stars like Julian Carr have just ripped. The cameras are already in place! While in Chile, Stellar operates from its base at Valle Nevado. Situated fewer than two hours from Santiago, it’s an in-bound resort on the edge of some of the world’s best heli-skiing. The terrain has some of the longest sustained pitches, paired with the best snow you will find in the Southern Hemisphere. Fire up a helicopter, fewer than 100 feet from the Valle Nevado hotel, and within moments you’ll be on the receiving end of “blower” powder face shots. Stellar teams with Claudio Inglesias, head of Heliski Valle Nevado. Inglesias is accustomed to creating world-class experiences for anyone from the first-time heli skier to the seasoned expert, and to groups like Stellar’s, who are looking to film, make first descents, and push, push, push. But it’s not all about the skiing. In the evenings, Valle has a variety of dining options. From casual to elegant, there is something for every mood, including the intimate La Fourchette, which specializes in French cuisine with a Chilean twist. The spa at Hotel Valle Nevado is the perfect place to work out sore muscles. The hot tub in the evening is the place to be, as Valle Nevado, situated high above Santiago, has some of Chile’s prettiest sunsets. The best part of a Stellar tour at Valle Nevado is that once you arrive, the most taxing questions you will have to answer are: piste or heli? pisco sour, red or white? Everything else is well arranged, and the experience is definitely Stellar.

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heli

Après-ski Luxury Wine Touring— Santiago Adventures

top to bottom

Photos: courtesy of Vina Matetic

1. The wine cellar at Matetic Vineyards. 2. La Casona’s pool and gardens. 3. Touring Matetic’s vineyards on horseback in the company of a huaso.

Chilean wine is renowned for its quality. Less known is the South American country’s luxury wine experience. American-owned Santiago Adventures specializes in high-end insider trips to the best the country has to offer. Brian Pearson started Santiago Adventures to share his love for Chile and entice visitors to go deeper and explore the country’s wonders, for weeks at a time, or even just as a two-day add-on to a ski trip. Vina Matetic is just one of these special places visited by Santiago Adventures. Situated an hour from Santiago and not far from Valle Nevado, skiers are transported out of the bustle of the city into the countryside where you can soak in the culture, essence, and terroir of Chile. Miles and miles of grapes grow in the vineyard of Vina Matetic, one of the first biodynamic wineries in Chile. Their commitment to the land and the environment is pervasive. Santiago Adventures recommends the best way to experience Matetic’s landscape is on mountain bike or horseback, riding along the valley to the winery for a tasting. The winery’s architecture and design are clean and elegant, but the wine barrel room evokes the inner sanctum of a place of worship demanding of reverence. Matetic is home to La Casona, a small boutique hotel with just eight large, cheery rooms. Its common area—games, library, pool table and roaring fire—is especially inviting. La Casona’s outdoor swimming pool provides the perfect setting to relax and sample Vina Matetic’s organic foods grown locally in the Rosario Valley, all perfectly complemented with Matetic’s showcase wines.

Santiago Adventures entices visitors to go deeper and explore Chile’s wonders.

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Gary R. DePersia Licensed Associate Real Estate Broker m: 516.380.0538 gdp@corcoran.com

Real estate agents affiliated with The Corcoran Group are independent contractor sales associates and are not employees of The Corcoran Group. Equal Housing Opportunity. The Corcoran Group is a licensed real estate broker. All information furnished regarding property for sale or rent or regarding financing is from sources deemed reliable, but Corcoran makes no warranty or representation as to the accuracy thereof. All property information is presented subject to errors, omissions, price changes, changed property conditions, and withdrawal of the property from the market, without notice. All dimensions provided are approximate. To obtain exact dimensions, Corcoran advises you to hire a qualified architect or engineer. 51 Main Street, East Hampton NY 11937

heli

From the Chile Suite, to the Norge Suite, to the Hermès tribute suite, VINA VIK’S ROOMS ARE INDIVIDUAL MASTERPIECES

top to bottom

1. Vina Vik’s corner

Photos: courtesy of Vina Vik

Fornasetti Suite showcasing Chile’s light and landscape. 2. The pool at Vina Vik spilling into the magnificent countryside.

Also part of Santiago Adventures: Vina Vik, a newcomer to luxury wine tourism. Vina Vik is an art-filled hotel located in the Millahue Valley just north of Colchagua, a major wine-producing region in Chile. The town of Millahue is rural, quiet, and sleepy, with its loudest sounds coming from wandering hens. High on the hill above the town, you’ll notice something glinting in the sun. From a distance, you may wonder if the Starship Enterprise has landed, but as you make your way up the steep road, you see that the shiny object is the roof of Vina Vik, whose materials and design are reminiscent of Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim masterpiece in San Sebastian. The hotel is a creation of Norwegianborn Alexander Vik and his American wife, Carrie, of VIK Hotels. Every one of its 22 rooms is unique, each designed by a different Chilean artist. From the Chile Suite, to the Norge Suite, to the Hermes tribute suite, the rooms are individual masterpieces. The corner suites have floor-to-ceiling windows on both sides to showcase the light and landscape. It is truly a shame that when the hotel is occupied one will not be able to visit each room to take in the fabulous work of these magnificent Chilean artists. From the hotel’s perch, the view is expansive; on clear days you can see the snow-covered Andean peaks in the distance. From there, another architectural wonder catches your eye: VIK vineyard’s Radic Smiljan-designed winery with its low metallic roof and Zen-like rock and water garden entry. Its entrance sets the tone for this über modern winery that makes some of the top red wines in the country. The best way to reach the winery is to gear yourself up in chaps and a traditional Chilean cowboy hat, then trot along VIK’s property on horseback. This is also a great way to work up an appetite for the winery’s pistachio-encrusted filet and baby carrots served with a bottle of VIK’s raison d’être: reds in elegant blends of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère, Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Mix all this with a little heli-ski caviar at Valle Nevado, and you’ve got the perfect summer experience in Chile. WWW.SANTIAGOADVENTURES.COM

Aspen LifestyLe estAtes The Beauty of Aspen: This has always lured those interested in living “The Good Life.” From the majestic mountain peaks to its Historic town, Aspen has a way of touching your heart and becoming a place you can’t live without. It is an idyllic place to raise a family or just to get away to. Access to the Outdoors: Imagine walking out your front door right onto the 16th tee! In the winter the snow covered golf course has miles of free cross‑country ski trails. There are not many properties left in Aspen like this, but the Bonita Town‑homes provide amazing access year round. World Class Recreation, Dining, and Shopping: Aspen is a skier’s paradise and the dining and shopping rival the best in the world. Get to the gondola or dinner quickly from the Red Butte Riverfront Estate in the Aspen city limits, just two minutes from downtown.

Culture, Art, and Adventure: Aspen is culturally on par with the top metropolitan cities offering the best in art, theater, and film, all right at your fingertips. The Braun Ranch in Woody Creek is an outdoor adventurer’s dream. Located on 35 acres with an Italian‑style stone home, six‑stall barn and enough space to establish soccer fields or grow hay in summer months, and just minutes away from a wealth of opportunities. Brian Hazen: Brian has been making people’s dreams come true in Aspen for the last 37 years, as a full‑time Real Estate Broker. He specializes in luxury real estate, specifically in luxury homes, town homes, building sites, ranches, and special country estates. He’s a Coldwell Banker Previews Specialist. He’s been awarded Coldwell Banker’s President’s Award for highest production level achieved in the last three years. Brian was inducted into the Who’s Who in Luxury Real Estate’s Billion Dollar Club and named in the Top 250 out of the Top 1000 U.S. Brokers by Real Trends and the Wall Street Journal.

“People in Aspen are in tune with quality of life”

WWW.STELLARADVENTUREMEDIA.COM

BriAn@BriAnhAzen.com www.BriAnhAzen.com

coldwell banker Mason Morse

snow culture

ALP N ROCK ARC’TERYX

dream big

AUTHIER BOGNER CANADA GOOSE

ASPEN EXTREME’S E.J. FOERSTER—A.K.A. DR. SNOW—FLIPS FROM HOLLYWOOD FILM MAKING TO ASPEN SKI MAKING

EIDER

By rob story

ERIN SNOW

“Dream big or don’t dream at all, baby” —Dexter Rutecki, Aspen Extreme

he year is 1992, a scorching hot day in Burbank, California. As a pitiless sun beats on the metal roof of an enormous hangarcum-soundstage, E.J. Foerster pads around inside, among truckloads of fake snow. As associate producer and second-unit director shooting Aspen Extreme, Foerster’s tasked with making a realistic scene where a skier falls into a water-filled crevasse. This isn’t easy. Not for Foerster, nor for the stuntman who flushes down the hole 30 or so times over the course of the day. It’s a silly plot device—no glaciers exist anywhere near Aspen, neither do crevasses. What’s more, the bubbling void on the other side of a clear partition here in Burbank resembles a mellow hot tub; its chemically colored water surrounded by white fiberglass “snow.”

Aspen Extreme included heli-skiing footage of early “extreme” skiers Scot Schmidt and Doug Coombs.

FIRE + ICE

“I became known as Dr. Snow. I did every movie with a snowflake in it.” Foerster pulls the visual off, though. The New York Times later notes that Foerster’s “ski footage is often pretty,” while Variety describes the film as “exciting” and “attractively lensed.” Attractively lensed indeed. Following the release of Aspen Extreme, “I became known as Dr. Snow,” says Foerster. “I did every movie with a snowflake in it and lots of extreme location work in mountains and jungles. It got me into mainstream Hollywood before they even knew the term ‘extreme.’” Since then, the peripatetic Foerster has moved constantly between the three points of what he calls the “Western Bermuda Triangle”: Los Angeles (the worldwide entertainment capital, which contains untold soundstages for filming phony crevasses), Vancouver (where E.J. met his wife and where the entertainment industry has worked since the Canadian dollar plunged to 60 American cents in the 90s), and Aspen (where E.J. has lived for decades and where he taught skiing at Snowmass alongside Aspen Extreme writer-director, Patrick Hasburgh).

Foerster’s company, Momentum Films, has produced more than 700 commercials; personally, he’s worked behind the lens on dozens of “Films You Have Heard Of,” including Forest Gump, Tropic Thunder, The Twilight Saga; To Wong Foo, Thanks For Everything, Julie Newmar; The X Files, and Godzilla. He talks fondly of working as second-unit director on Martin Scorcese’s Kundun, about the Dalai Lama. “The whole Zen of making the movie was amazing. It was really complicated stuff, airlifting horses with helicopters up to 14,000 feet on Mt. Robson and that kind of thing, and it all went great.” Although Foerster maintains success in Hollywood, earlier this century he made an “only in Aspen” career move: He began making skis and snowboards. Well, not him, exactly, but the company, High Society, which he owns and serves as its creative director. “High Society is something that came out of a lifelong desire to own a ski company—and of meeting four young guys who were renting a house of mine,”

GOLDWIN J. LINDEBERG JETSET KJUS M. MILLER MONCLER MOUNTAIN FORCE PARAJUMPERS POSTCARD ROSSIGNOL 1907 JCC TONI SAILER

snow culture

Foerster made an “only in Aspen” career move: He began making skis and snowboards.

Foerster says. “They were designing skis in my garage, and I was impressed by their passion. They were super energetic,” he says, but they needed adult supervision. For 11 years now, High Society has been building light, high quality, hard-to-break skis and snowboards at the Never Summer factory in Denver. All High Society’s groupthink, design, and attitude spring from the Roaring Fork Valley, though. Says Foerster, “The name High Society is a reference and a tribute to Aspen and its mystique. We will never forget our roots and the way this place inspires us.“ The company’s mission: “We design and manufacture premium necessities for people who live a lifestyle of physical expression,” like most Aspenites do. High Society has since moved from only winter sports hard-goods to producing stand-up paddleboards and a host of apparel and lifestyle items, from rashguards to women’s bottoms called “booty shorts.” Still, skis and snowboards remain the company’s bread and butter, which can be stressful. “I have to count on Mother Nature to shed her light on us!” Foerster exclaims. “In the winter action sports business, you have a finite window to make money. The buying season lasts roughly 20 weeks, which can unspool under profound snowfall or soul-crushing drought. We have to adjust and improvise on any given day. Luckily, we’re very nimble at High Society.” Unlike his employees, Foerster gets to escape business concerns for Hollywood concerns. “First and foremost I’m a filmmaker,” he says, “and when I’m on a film it’s for four to six months. I tend to schedule High Society commitments around my film commitments.”

E.J. Foerster in Aspen with wife (and stunt woman) Marny Eng.

Though two decades have elapsed since said commitments entailed Aspen Extreme, the film never seems to go away. For one, the ski footage remains incredible, as Foerster “nailed it” shooting the best skiers of the day (Scot Schmidt and Doug Coombs) while helicopter-skiing British Columbia, (which made both B.C. and Aspen shine). While its plot centers around two Detroit buddies who move to Aspen to become ski instructors, the film is truly about following ones dreams. Foerster recently rode in a limousine on Interstate 70; when passing Vail, the driver actually quoted the film’s line about the ersatz ski town: “Looks like the guy who designed Wendy’s went nuts in this place.” Foerster was flabbergasted. Then, on a shoot in New Orleans, he met a crew member wearing a Broncos shirt, which led to a discussion about the Rockies and skiing, and before he knew it, “the kid had looked me up on IMDb, and told me Aspen Extreme changed his life.” It sometimes seems to Foerster that every person who’s moved from flatlands to the mountains tells him the same thing. “The film was pretty exciting for us,” he says. “We were kind of lucky to stumble on the ‘extreme’ phenomenon before it became overused. But I had worked on Mountain Dew commercials previously, when ‘extreme’ was just coming into vogue. The film was definitely not a box office smash, but over time it’s become a cult classic.” And it’s become a stepping stone for a damn good life for E.J. Foerster—a producer unafraid to dream big. “I have great friends here where I’ve grown up,” he says. “And what do I do for a living? I make toys and I make films!”

it’s deeper up here! Industry leading vertical guarantee Heliskiing with snowcats as back-up www.neheliski.com | info@neheliski.com | 250.615.3184

are alive

GO AHEAD, SING WHILE YOU SKI. SALZBURG IS MOZART AND MARIA COUNTRY STORY BY lori knowles Photography by Sanders Photos

t’s an indelible image: Julie Andrews swirling on the slopes of Salzburg, Austria, a line of sparkling white peaks standing like sentries in the distance. The hills are alive... The scene was shot in 1964 on the flanks of the Untersberg, Salzburg’s highest peak. Today, you’ll find a cable car there for sightseers and fervent fans of The Sound of Music. A skier can ride that cable car, then slide along the 4.5-mile piste that trickles down from its peak—permitting snow lovers to do their own kind of dance to the sound of Maria’s music. Is it a bit cliché? Perhaps. But escaping song, not just Rodger and Hammerstein’s, in Salzburger Sportwelt is an impossible task. One might as well move along with it. The Sound of Music, the film and its emblematic songs (“Do-ReMi,” “Edelweiss”), are so deeply-rooted in the North America psyche, we’re apt to forget the city of Salzburg truly did serve as the home of the von Trapp family. There was a Baron named Georg who met and married a governess called Maria. Their villa full of children amid the pretty peaks of Salzburg really was redolent with music—so much so, concerts became the family’s financial rescue, having lost the Trapp fortune during the European depression. And yes, a whole line of Trapps emigrated to the U.S. to escape Austria’s National Socialists in the late 1930s. They landed in Stowe, Vermont, at the Trapp Family Lodge... but that is a separate story. In their wake they left quite a tale, one that’s brought alive for us again and again on our flat screens—The Sound of Music plays perpetually in some Salzburg hotels—and a tale we skiers can dissect on a snow vacation. On our way to Salzburg’s 470 miles of ski slopes, we may trip lightly through the city’s Mirabell Gardens where Julie Andrews and her movie-brood played by the magic fountains singing “Do, Do, La, Fa, Me, Re, Do.” Or, we might tiptoe into the eerie old city cemetery at the base of a schloss, where the von Trapp children, on the run from the Nazis, hid among the tombstones. Or, with the Salzburg church bells singing all around us, we may venture past Nonnberg Convent, inside of which the nuns wondered how to solve a problem like Maria. 88

laurie laing

Top producing Luxury reaL esTaTe agenT

WHY laurie?

Because I care about every client at every turn. I’ve been working in the Aspen/Snowmass real estate market for nearly 20 years and I believe more than anything else that one size doesn’t fit all!

WHY aspen?

As a child our family’s annual ski trip was a tradition and we skied all over the country but when we came to Aspen, it was beyond compare and I knew at that moment Aspen was where I wanted to spend the rest of my life. I chose Aspen pure and simple because of the quality of life, tradition and values.

WHY real estate?

Because I want to be able to share this extraordinary place with others. After I purchased my first home in Aspen I realized that there could and should be so much more to buying a home than just a transaction. Every buyer, seller and property are different and I take the time to understand what’s important and unique about each one.

WHat Does oWning in aspen mean to You?

Buying in Aspen is more than just a transaction. It is incredibly rewarding to see my clients and their families from all generations embrace our unparalleled life-style and create their own traditions and memories that will last the rest of their lives.

Photo: Bob Brazell

URBAN ESCAPES

The Hills

(970) 379-0195 laurie@laurielaing.com

LEFT TO RIGHT

1. The tight streets and fashionable shops of Old Salzburg. 2. Salzburg is a city of spires.

Indeed, Salzburg has a profusion of spires and bells that— surprise!—sing constantly, plus a fortress on a hill, and a regal river lined with vast Baroque chateaus not unlike the movie’s version of the von Trapp manor. Remember? As his children cavorted, Baron von Trapp sat upon his chateau’s patio with his doomed lover, The Baroness, whose best line in the flick was: “Darling, haven’t you ever heard of a delightful little thing called boarding school?”

“Of all the lovely regions I have seen, none can compare to Salzburg...” —Amadeus Mozart But these sounds of music are not Salzburg’s only claim to music fame. Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, the composer, was born in Salzburg. His residence remains in Makart Square, in the midst of the tight streets and soft-lit shops of Old Salzburg—a UNESCO World Heritage Site. “Of all the lovely regions I have seen,” Amadeus once wrote, “none can compare to Salzburg’s striking natural beauty.” Ah... the altstadt (old city). Most European cities have one, and Salzburg’s—meaning salt castle—does not disappoint. There are furriers, weavers, tailors, St. Peter’s bakery, Alte Hofapotheke—a pharmacy founded in 1591— and Salzkantor, whose shelves are filled with Salzkammergut salt in strange flavors such as lavender and citrus. It’s along these streets Paul Fürst handmade the first chocolate Mozart balls (Mozartkugeln) in 1890—a treat in Salzburg that’s as abundant as its church spires. 90

Alas, skiers... the music plays on in the snowy hills behind Salzburg. Called the Salzburger Sportwelt, it is an astoundingly vast ridge of linked-together ski areas—eight in all—with such Austrian names as Flachau, Wagrain, and St. Johann-Alpendorf. There are 470 miles of slopes situated only 40 minutes from downtown Salzburg, one of the world’s few culturally rich cities that’s close to an enormous resource for alpine skiing. The lifts of Salzburger Sportwelt are pretty impressive, too—an unfathomable 270 in all. They zip up one ridge, then another, with one truly impressive G-Link forging its way across a plunging valley from one peak to another, binding Flachau, Wagrain, and Alpendorf as one, solely for the benefit of the skier. For Amadeus fans, however, Wagrain’s Flying Mozart gondola is the most melodious—a treble clef painted on each window makes one want to break into a skier’s rendition of “Fantasia” No. 4 in C minor. As for the skiing, it is smooth, well-groomed, meandering, and pretty. It is no secret Salzburger Sportwelt cannot compare in caliber to Austria’s Kitzbühel or St. Anton. Then again, perhaps it can. The great downhiller Hermann Maier hails from Flachau— a giant bronze of his generous assets stands at the base of his hometown ski area—and The Hermannator was no sissy. Nor is Flachau’s après-ski life for sissies. No telling what Mozart’s or Maria’s reaction would be to the pulsating beats emanating from Hofstadl, the bubble bar at Flachau’s base: Shakira, Avicii, Beyoncé, Pitbull and Ke$ha. Steins are filled, men and women snog, skiers in Lange boots dance on bar tables. It’s not quite Julie Andrews twirling through the Alps on a summer day, but it is après-ski in the melodic Salzburger Sportwelt... you might as well move along with it. Yes, the hills are alive with the sound of music. WWW.SALZBURGERSPORTWELT.COM

THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN GOOD SKIING AND GREAT SKIING IS A VERY FINE LINER.

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THERE’s SOMETHING ABOUT LEE Photo: Barbara Sanders

ASPEN’S LEE KEATING—AUTHIER DESIGNER, PERFORMANCE SKI SHOP OWNER—HAS A JE NE SAIS QUOI THAT COMMANDS RESPECT FROM SKI BRANDS, COMPETITORS, AND LOYAL CUSTOMERS BY MEREDITH OGILVY-THOMPSON

t’s not easy to know where to start when trying to describe Lee Keating. Just like it’s not easy to explain why throngs of people pack into Performance Ski, Keating’s store at the base of Aspen Mountain, to shop and chat at lunchtime on a blue-bird day during the peak of spring ski season. But then again, it’s not everyday that a laser-focused sales executive with a successful financial printing business on Wall Street marries a former member of the U.S. ski team, moves out to Colorado, and goes on to buy an iconic skiwear brand that she now also designs. Keating’s rather extraordinary journey was born from a most mundane affliction. “My boot hurt, so I went into a ski shop to have it fixed and that’s how I met Tom,” Keating says of her husband Tom Bowers. “He fixed my boot, and didn’t charge me. So I invited him to dinner.” 92

Tom’s ski shop, as it happened, was the previous incarnation of Performance Ski, by all accounts an unremarkable rental and tuning shop. Keating would eventually open an annex next door— in her own words, “a small dump a quarter the size of all the other skiwear shops in Aspen.” “Postcard was the brand that started it,” Keating says, referring to the line of ski clothes that arguably established Performance Ski as a bellwether. “It was 1996 and I saw it and flipped for it. I wanted it so badly for the store, so I begged and they scoffed. We were such a tiny shop.” Eventually Keating won them over, and would go on to build Postcard into one of the biggest names in skiwear. Other premier brands followed, and for years Performance Ski was a major sportswear dealer for Prada, Moncler and Jet Set, among others. Keating became known as a brand maker.

exquisitely the warmest snow destination in the Canadian Rockies

Photo: Barbara Sanders

Photo: Michele Cardamone

BOUTIQUE

By 2008, however, things began to change. Keating was losing her premier brands—Prada stopped selling through sports dealers, Moncler decided to open their own stores—and needed to find something new. Enter Authier. An iconic purveyor of wooden skis dating back to 1910, the brand had undergone a revival in the 1980s that included retro ski clothes. It was sold to Hugo Boss and later Alberta Ferretti, before being bought by an Italian businessman by the name of Gustavo Sangiorgi. “Tom and I had met Gustavo in Italy on our honeymoon. He came to Aspen in the fall of 2008, and he and I designed 10 pieces for the collection working out of my kitchen. “I had the store, was raising two children and still was running a financial printing business in New York,” Keating says with a wry smile. Now in its fifth season, Authier has become a cult classic. An edgy collection of plaids and camouflage with touches of fur, hints of retro, yet modern in functionality, and every inch high-end luxury without being flashy. It is Performance Ski’s signature brand, but is also sold in 10 stores around the world. Keating herself designs every piece. “It’s all the things I wanted to wear,” Keating says. “And if you love it, you will sell it.” From the vantage point of an oversized leather armchair near the entrance of Performance Ski, it is easy to observe how Keating’s passion has translated into a successful business. The clientele, 70 percent of whom are repeat customers, seem—for lack of a better word—happy. In fact, the atmosphere at Performance Ski is so social,

Performance Ski was a major sportswear dealer for Prada, Moncler and Jet Set… Keating became known as a brand maker.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT

1. Tom and Lee’s daughter, Dairinn Bowers posing for Authier in the Colorado countryside. 2. Inside Performance Ski.

one could easily be forgiven for thinking one had somehow wandered into a private club rather than one of Aspen’s premier ski shops. “At the end of the day, there’s just something about Lee,” says James Lartin, private chef to Aspen’s elite and Keating’s long-time friend. Indeed, to spend any time with Keating is to be instantly struck by the fact there is just something about her. Whether effortlessly chic in perfectly worn blue jeans and an un-tucked flannel shirt, or miniskirt and a T-shirt, Keating’s style is unselfconscious; her manner quintessentially it-girl cool. A cool that can, from time to time, be misinterpreted as cold or aloof, according to Lartin. “She just isn’t soft and fuzzy.” Neither is she a slave to fashion—the word itself makes her wince—nor much interested in selling for selling’s sake. In truth, Keating doesn’t try too hard, quite the opposite in fact. “Lee can be brutally honest and tell you what not to buy,” one client says. “She has this amazing ability to push a sale, while instinctively knowing when to leave you alone. It’s like she knows if she can help you look good, you’ll be back.”

Reservations: 1.800.661.1586 info@posthotel.com www.posthotel.com

1. Keating working the floor—the store owner is good at reading her customers. 2. Dairinn Bowers for Authier. 3. Performance Ski’s Aspen store.

Keating herself will tell you she is good at reading people, can size them up, and know their style. And, she would never let anyone walk out of the store looking bad. “I want people to buy stuff they don’t have to throw out,” Keating says, glancing over at her friend Minnie who smiles, nods and happily admits her ski pants are 12 years old. “At the end of the day, everyone has to be here to do sports.” It is a sentiment Keating lives by, and perhaps the key to her success. From her many customers who call in advance and stop in straight off the plane to collect what Keating has carefully chosen—the Lauders and the Crowns are among Performance Ski’s regular clients—to her staff who, by design, work three day and two afternoon shifts so they are able to ski, to Keating herself—she skis every day, without exception, from 9:30-11:45 a.m.—there is no forgetting why anyone is there. “Performance Ski is always one of my first stops in Aspen,” says world-renown mountain climber and part-time Aspen resident Annabelle Bond. “Lee has an amazing and unique style and is instrumental in bringing skiwear fashion forward but functional.” Respect for Keating goes beyond her clientele. At ISPO Munich— an annual trade showcase for ski equipment and fashion where the buying for the following season takes place—competing ski retailers have been known to follow Lee’s path, stopping into 96

Photo: Barbara Sanders

Photo: Michele Cardamone

BOUTIQUE

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT

Keating would never let anyone walk out of the store looking bad. exhibitors’ booths and checking on unknown brands simply because Keating did the same. Says one ISPO regular: “A retailer once stopped into a booth and said they wanted to place an order. The sales person asked, ‘Have you seen the collection?’ The response was ‘No, I just want to buy what Lee bought.’” What does Performance Ski have over other ski retailers? What is Keating’s je ne sais quoi? “No clue,” says another longtime Aspen client. “All I know is there’s a rumor circulating that when Leo DiCaprio’s people called to request she shut the store so he could shop in private, she refused. She said no! She’s such a badass. Imagine saying no to Mr. Gatsby.”

mountains In learning to turn, Olympian Andrea Mead Lawrence—American skiing’s greatest child prodigy—learned how to be a friend of mountains

The Olympian in 2008

BY peggy shinn

Photo: Peggy White’s files

SNOW QUEENS

“You can be a world class athlete only so many years. The grounding you get from sport gives you the right attitude, knowing there is another distance out there: the rest of your life.” —Andrea Mead Lawrence

n a snowy day in March 1998 at Vermont’s Pico Mountain, Andrea Mead Lawrence stood at the top of B-Slope—the ski area’s racing trail. She was back home, at the ski area founded by her parents, for a reunion of Pico Olympians—a group of eight, including Suzy “ChapStick” Chaffee and her brother Rick. But the group’s leader—its inspiration—was always Andrea Mead Lawrence. Known as “Andy” to her ski friends, she pushed off down B-Slope, and at age 65, the double Olympic gold medalist danced through the heavy spring snow, her feet barely touching the surface, as if she had a special arrangement with gravity. Andy wasn’t racing though. She seemed happy simply to ski the very slopes where she’d learned to turn—and more importantly, learned to love mountains. It was this deep love of mountains that guided her life. “Winning gold medals was a wonderful experience,” she said, “but it was just a starting point. It helped lay the groundwork for the rest of my life.”

Andrea Mead taking a break from racing at the 1949 U.S. Nationals, Whitefish, Montana.

Photo: Arya Degenhardt/Mono Lake Committee

a champion of

Born in Rutland, Vermont, on April 19, 1932, Andrea was only five years old when her parents, Brad and Janet Mead, started Pico Peak, one of Vermont’s earliest ski areas. Left to discover the mountain—and gravity’s effects—on her own, young Andrea quickly developed a penchant for speed, schussing Pico’s steep, icy slopes with glee and abandon. Her specialty was skiing fast and going straight; it is said this mini Mead didn’t learn to actually turn until her parents brought Swiss slalom ace Karl Acker in 1938 to lead Pico’s ski school. Brad Mead died tragically in a boating accident when Andrea was 10, but Janet Mead continued to operate Pico, a woman left to take on bankers, mechanics, employees, you name it, in the pre-GloriaSteinem days. Her fortitude had an effect on daughter Andrea, who, in the midst of the family’s struggles, pushed on ‘til she had an a-ha moment: Andrea discovered ski racing.

“I remember going into a hairpin, tearing around the curve,” she told Skiing Heritage Journal of her first time in gates. “That’s where I felt this sensation—the rhythm, the timing—there was a great connection, a coming together between what the course required me to do and my natural instincts. I call it a ‘psychic click.’ You suddenly find yourself in a moment and say, ‘Aha! That’s for me!’” It was the ideal alchemy for ski racing. Andrea Mead Lawrence had a keen sensitivity for ski terrain and she loved going fast. It was innate—a talent famed ski writer Morten Lund called a “mystery.” In Skiing Heritage he pronounced Andrea “American skiing’s greatest child prodigy.” Andy Mead’s penchant for speed, by the way, wasn’t reserved for skis. Peggy White, her closest childhood friend, later recalled racing Andrea up and down Route 4, the main road from Pico to Rutland. “She always won,” said White in a tribute to Lawrence. “There was just no contest.” Plus, everyone in Andrea’s life was a competitor—her kids included. Years later, at her memorial service, son Matthew half-jokingly remembered his mom’s “sense of entitlement to the roads as just another venue to explore her ‘need for speed,’” as she raced him down a California highway. “Watching her pass and pull in front,” he recounted, “I was reminded that she was never willingly going to relent in anything she did.” This penchant for speed paid off on skis. In 1951, Andrea Mead Lawrence experienced success like few skiers have ever enjoyed. During eight weeks in Europe, she entered 16 races, won 11— including the prestigious Arlberg-Kandahar downhill—and finished second in four. Had the World Cup debuted 16 years earlier (it started in 1967), Andrea surely would have won at least one crystal globe. The 19-year-old capped the season by marrying fellow skier David Lawrence in Davos, Switzerland. 99

snow queens

She remains the only U.S. skier, male or female, to have won two gold medals at the same Olympics.

But it is the next ski season for which she is remembered. At the 1952 Olympic Winter Games at Oslo, Norway, Andrea won the giant slalom by 2.2 seconds and earned her first gold medal. After crashing in the downhill, and then again in the first run of slalom, it looked like her Games were over. But her second slalom run became legend. In describing the run, she said that it was difficult to find words. She “became what she was doing” and earned her second gold medal by 0.8 seconds. She remains the only U.S. skier, male or female, to have won two gold medals at the same Olympics. Andrea retired from racing in 1956 after her third Olympic Games, and the Lawrences moved west. In the high mountains and vast open spaces, Andrea’s passion for environmental work grew. Divorced in 1967, she settled with her five children in Mammoth Lakes, California, where she helped found Friends of Mammoth 100

to encourage conservation in the eastern Sierra Nevadas. The group brought a landmark environmental case to the California Supreme Court in 1972—and won. The decision expanded the California Environmental Quality Act to require environment impact reports for private projects for which public permission was sought. Andrea also embarked on a political career, serving on the Mono County Board of Supervisors from 1982 until 1999. Among other projects, she was a long-time advocate of Mono Lake’s protection, and she served on the Mono Lake Committee’s board of directors for a decade. “She brought to the committee her firm determination that big victories, such as Olympic medals and the 1994 water rights protection of Mono Lake, are only the beginning,” said Mono Lake Committee executive director Geoffrey McQuilkin. “When you care about a landscape, she told us, when you are connected closely to a place, then your responsibility and duty to act are ongoing.” At the 2002 Winter Olympics, filmmaker Bud Greenspan honored Andrea as the greatest Winter Olympian ever. But by then, Andrea was fighting her fiercest opponent: cancer. She had been diagnosed with leiomyosarcoma, a rare cancer of soft connective muscle tissue. She won round one with the disease. Even after the cancer recurred several years later, Andrea still sounded strong and full of life on the phone—not once mentioning that she was confined to bed. When asked if she ever missed the East, she said that her soul was in Vermont, but her spirit was in the West. On March 30, 2009 at age 76, Andrea died, surrounded by her five children. She hoped her legacy would live on through the Andrea Lawrence Institute for Mountains and Rivers (ALIMAR), a non‑profit committed to conservation in the Eastern Sierra that she founded in 2003. Instead, her legacy is living on through the Mono Lake Committee (MLC). In 2011, Quentin Lawrence—Andrea’s youngest daughter— transferred ALIMAR’s funds to the MLC, which created the Andrea Mead Lawrence Fund. Among other projects, the fund has provided support for outdoor education programs for Los Angeles youth to connect them to their source of water (Mono Lake) in weeklong adventures. It has also supported the MLC’s work crafting an agreement with the L.A. Department of Water and Power to

Photo: Andrea Mead Lawrence collection at the Vermont Ski and Snowboard Museum

Photo: Bettmann/CORBIS

Husband Dave Lawrence gives wife Andrea Mead a victory kiss following her win in the women’s Olympic slalom at Oslo on February 20, 1952. On that day, Andrea became the first woman to win two Winter Olympic gold medals.

Andrea Mead Lawrence gritting her teeth on course at the Olympic Winter Games, Oslo, 1952.

restore 19 miles of Mono Lake tributary streams damaged by past excessive diversions into the Los Angeles Aqueduct. “This is just the kind of solution-oriented, eyes-on-the-prize work Andrea did so well in her Mono County political career,” said McQuilkin, adding that “she invested in the effort to protect Mono Lake back in the 1970s, long before it seemed likely to succeed.” Andy Mead Lawrence’s legacy lives on in her five children as well. Daughter Quentin now lives in Virginia, son Matthew in Seattle, and daughter Leslie in Oakland, California. Son Cortlandt Lawrence owns the legendary Footloose Sports in Mammoth, and Deirdre (Didi)—who looks just like her mom—lives in Aspen and works as a life-long ski pro.

“Growing up with mom was like growing up with a big sister and playmate,” Didi said with warmth. “I’m with mom every day of my life, especially when I’m skiing. She is in my heart and in my spirit with every turn I make.” In his tribute, Matthew remembered his mom as living her life with “no holds barred, with grace, benevolence, warmth, love, leadership, and an absolute, unequivocal belief in honesty, integrity, and in always doing the right thing without regret to the personal cost.” In January 2013, a high Sierra peak was named in her honor. President Obama signed legislation officially renaming Peak 12, 240, a prominent mountain on the border between Yosemite National Park and the Inyo National Forest, as Mt. Andrea Lawrence. Symbolic of this hard-working Olympian’s life, it’s a peak that takes effort to climb, but provides a stunning view from the top. 101

BE DAZZLED! Helmets begone! Bedazzling aprĂ¨s-ski is back, with bejeweled tones, ferocious fur, soft whites, leopard prints, and luscious leather. Big hair included. Ladies, toss those tresses. Photographs by Anthony Friend STYLED BY Shifteh Shahbazian

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Photo: Carlo Bavagnoli/Time & Life Pictures/Getty Images

ROSEY

COMING up ROSEY Graduates of Gstaadâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ski-friendly boarding school, Le Rosey, riff on Royals, Radziwills, the power of freemasonry, and a Swiss tuition fee that rings in well over $100,000 BY LESLIE WOIT 117

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Photo: B.D.V./CORBIS

Photo: Bettmann/Corbis

Photo: courtesy of Weems Westfeldt

Well known to some, unknown by many more, Switzerland’s Le Rosey has been educating the offspring of the world’s most powerful royal, business, and religious families since 1880. The über-VIP darlings bounce seasonally between two campuses, commencing the scholastic year at Rolle near the shores of Lake Geneva and, come winter, decamping to the Bernese Oberland. Here they are bien installé in the heart of the tony resort of Gstaad, the school’s residential chalets surrounded by glittering boutiques

that crest with jewellery and truffles, framed by white lace curtains in prettily painted windows of the village’s weather-worn pine chalets. As recently as a few decades back, cash was frowned upon: pupils traditionally were handed ‘bons’ on demand, chits for buying anything from shoes to cars, honored all over Switzerland. The shop would send the bill to Rosey. Rosey would send the bill to the parents. At the edge of Gstaad’s main snow-coated pedestrian street, today’s pink-cheeked leaders of tomorrow roughhouse as they always have on the outdoor hockey rink, afterwards taking tea and cake amid the old-school refinement of Charly’s Tearoom just next door. One of the unique selling points of the school is that after academic studies in the morning, pupils ski all afternoon. But that’s not the only bonus. “Much as I hate to use the word,” Headmaster Colonel Louis Johannot told Life magazine in a rare interview in 1965, “Le Rosey represents the most powerful freemasonry in the world. We know that many parents send their boys to the school only for what they know the school will do for their children in the future.” “Yes, I think that’s right,” agrees Weems Westfeldt, a student of Le Rosey from 1960-62 who now lives in Colorado, heading up Aspen Highlands ski school. “I didn’t know it at the time, but the contacts that were developed there were amazing. And it still goes on. Rosey reunions are constant: dinners in LA, New York, London, ski reunions in Aspen... .” The ring that tightens round the Rosey posey is spelled out in the school’s current promotional literature: “Former students are able to help current Roseans to get into the best universities, find a summer job or, upon university graduation, help find them work

Photo: Le Rosey

et’s play a game. A stiff white card arrives in your morning post, inside an engraved invitation to one of many parties your school throws each year. Your fellow invitees are old school chums—rich, powerful and keen skiers poised to rendezvous from all corners of the globe. The Taittingers are bringing the bubbly. Diana Ross’s daughters are in charge of music. Khashoggi is sailing in from the east. And we’ll miss old Dodi Fayed promising to bring Di as his guest. The Royals will leave their crowns in the car to kick back and enjoy being just another Juan Carlos, Aga or Albert for the night. It’s a school reunion not to be missed. The address on the reply: Le Rosey, Gstaad. The network of Anciens Roséens has been called “one of the most influential alumni organizations of all.” Their members meet on the polo pitches, the ski slopes, and private clubs of the world. Maybe it’s a fondue party on the mountain near Gstaad Eggli, or an afternoon sail on the Med, or perhaps a whole powder-rich week at the annual heli-ski reunion in Canada at CMH. Who are these Roséens, alumni of the world’s most expensive boarding school, where annual tuition currently rings in comfortably over $130,000?

The network of Anciens Roséens has been called “one of the most influential alumni organizations of all.”

Photo: Pascal Le Segretain/Sygma/Corbis

Photo: Gstaad Palace

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT

1. Le Rosey graduate Prince Rainier III (right) with spouse Princess Grace (nee Grace Kelly) and daughter Stephanie. 2. Louis Armstrong in 1960 performing at The Palace, a popular spot for Le Rosey’s parent information evenings. 3. Actors Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor vacationing in Gstaad, where Taylor’s children attended Le Rosey. 4. Aspen Ski School Director Weems Westfeldt socializing at Le Rosey with a friend’s mother. 5. Actor Roger Moore in red, vacationing with his family in Gstaad. The 007 actor’s son was enrolled at Le Rosey. 6. Le Rosey’s Gstaad campus c. 1927.

royalty Éc os

to : c a r o

is for alumni

Pho

ROSEY

MUSICIANS

Les Anciens Roséens—one of the world’s most influential alumni organizations—includes musicians, filmmakers, and a network of notables.

Julian Casablancas

Sean Taro Ono Lennon

King Fuad II

PRINCE AGA KHAN IV

King Baudouin

King Juan Carlos

prince edward

Musician, band member of The Strokes

Musician, son of John Lennon and Yoko Ono

The Last King of Egypt

Imam of Nizari Ismailism

King of the Belgians

King of Spain

Duke of Kent

CELEBRITIES

h o

to : All a n wa

rr en

Tracee Ellis Ross

dodi al-fayed

José Ferrer

Alexandra Von Furstenberg

BIJAN

Mohammed Reza Pahlavi

Ian Campbell

prince rainier

king albert II

MarieChantale

Actress and daughter of Diana Ross

Film producer and boyfriend of Princess Di

Academy Awardwinning actor

Image Director of DvF

Iranian-American Fashion Designer

Shah of Iran

Duke of Argyll

Prince of Monaco

King of the Belgians

Crown Princess of Greece

experience or to get their foot on the ladder by way of a first job. It is in this spirit that Le Rosey fulfils its vow to be ‘A School for Life.’” Despite the school’s intimate numbers—enrollment is capped at fewer than 400—there is variety in its demographics. “We didn’t feel like we were wealthy,” explains Westfeldt of his family background, “and when I went to Rosey I really knew I wasn’t wealthy. Lots of kids really had a lot of money.” For him, “Skiing was the great equalizer, it was a shared thing. Obviously money is, too.” Money makes the world go round, and learning how is part of the curriculum. “We try to prepare our boys for today’s life, which can be shaken overnight by anything from revolution to devaluation,” observed Colonel Johannot. (“We called him JoJo,” Westfeldt admits, a moniker he was unlikely to have approved. Another ex-student we spoke with piped up with “Is he still alive? I disliked him intensely.”) The concepts of revolution and devaluation would be more than just another exam topic if you were the Shah of Persia (in 1935, the first Rosey student to request continual bodyguard cover; request denied), or a henchman such as Rafael Trujillo, the Dominican Republic dictator whose sons were duly admitted while pater was exiled in Lausanne. 120

Apart from the truly rarefied and reviled, more than likely, you would have been lining up your serve on one of the campus’s many tennis courts aiming towards a handful of measured-for-crown heads—variously, King Albert II of Belgium, the Duke of Kent, Prince Alexander of Yugoslavia, Prince Victor Emanuel of Savoy, King Fouad Farouk of Egypt, the last king of Burundi, and, of course, The Miller Sisters: Marie-Chantal, Crown Princess of Greece, filmmaker Pia Getty, and Alexandra von Fürstenberg of DvF... Shall we go on? Representing the noble houses of Europe and Mitteleuropa are a handful of Hohenlohes and Metternichs, a bunch of Borgheses and a rash of Radziwills. “We played basketball against Prince Egon von Fürstenberg (his first wife, Diane, is now more famous),” remembers an anonymous Ancien Roséen with tongue in cheek. “He was a fine fellow, but we always felt sorry for him because he went to a second‑tier school. Of course, they were all second-tier, really, compared to the Rosey.” Fringe benefits visited on pupils of Le Rosey come in all shapes, beyond the ubiquitous boarding school care package. The celeb-style personal appearances over the years would have set Twitter on fire.

(No doubt it does, but it’s notoriously tricky to gain access to real-time Rosey goings-on.) In the years following his studies, for instance, The Shah would pay frequent visits. “We all fell in love with his wife,” recalls Aspen’s Weems Westfeldt. But most parents would fly in under the radar, according to another student: “We were kids and we probably didn’t know who was who unless you had a name like Rockefeller. For instance, we didn’t know one guy’s grandfather came from an incredible French diplomatic family who probably got us into World War I.” When the children of David Niven, Elizabeth Taylor, and long-time Gstaad resident Roger Moore were in-house at Le Rosey, visits would register more brightly on social radar. “We had a cine club and saw Der Blaue Engel,” recalls one student. “I will never forget when Marlene Dietrich came down the aisle and introduced her film to us.” As it happens, Dietrich’s grandson, Michael Riva, was a fellow student. Riva—an Oscar-nominated production designer who died in 2012—attracted occasional visits from the world’s sultriest grandmother. In February 1964, Dietrich would also dazzle her adult fans, performing at Gstaad Palace, the celebrity-studded fairytale castle that remains at the heart of glittering Gstaad social life. Home to

a breathtaking lineup of entertainers that included luminaries from Maurice Chevalier to Louis Armstrong and Ella Fitzgerald, the Palace has stood as a century-old fortress of society and its secrets. (During World War II, its cellar housed a jerry-rigged vault storing the Union Bank of Switzerland’s gold and was set up as the go-to hideout for bank Brahmins in case of attack.) “The social crossroads of Gstaad” is how third-generation proprietor Andrea Scherz characterises the landmark hotel. “Our guests want the snow but they don’t necessarily ski,” he admits. “It is like going to the sea and not swimming, but... ,” Scherz waves his hand about the scented air to indicate countless competing amusements. The Palace disco has frequently been the destination

“Rosey reunions are constant: dinners in LA, New York, London, ski reunions in Aspen…”

rosey OPPOSITE PAGE

RACER READY! Sporting Royal colors of purple and gold, while at Le Rosey, students ready themselves for more than simply ski racing. THIS PAGE

Photo: Le Rosey

Le Rosey’s 1948/49 hockey team winning the cup on Gstaad’s outdoor ice.

Photo: Le Rosey

Representing the noble houses of Europe and Mitteleuropa are a handful of Hohenlohes and Metternichs, a bunch of Borgheses and a rash of Radziwills.

of choice for Le Rosey students. Today the Lobby Bar, with its well-tended crackling fire and discreet background fizzle of vintage Champagne, still receives prospective parents at Le Rosey information evenings. Among the topics for discussion at those parent-teacher meetings: Le Rosey’s two pools, three football pitches, skateboard park, shooting range, open-air theatre, circus tent, and, naturally, the local skiing. Gstaad’s rolling meadows zigzag with 137 miles of gentle pistes and a massive snow-guaranteeing glacier. This is not extreme terrain— Gstaad is no Chamonix or La Grave. In genteel Gstaad, skiing is by tradition more pastime than sport. With a menu of pleasant diversions from sleigh rides to ballooning to internationally renowned music festivals for the adults, skiing is another way to top up the tan between cocktails and multicourse dinners. For Le Rosey students, skiing is a life skill. At this ultimate ski school, the morning’s academic lessons give way to ski lessons every afternoon, including Saturday and all day Thursday. There is a cultural bent to skiing here: this outdoor schoolroom straddles the Röstigraben— a term used to mark the border between German- and French-speaking Switzerland. At the bottom, students board the Chalberhöni chairlift with a “Danke!”, then rise from fried potatoes

to fondue in a single ride. By the time these skiers reach the top of the lift, its name has changed to the more Frenchfriendly Les Gouilles, and they slide off with a jaunty “Merci et bon ski!” Even in this rarefied environment, as the real world goes, so goes Le Rosey— with student applications and enrolment subject to the shifting sands of geopolitics. The Iranians of the 1960s gave way to Arab oil money of the ‘70s. The Americans and the Japanese, of course, had a good ‘80s. And the Russians and their Stan cousins pollinated the West immediately after the dust of the Berlin Wall settled. Yet, no one group holds sway at the tiny Alpine school, where a certain world order prevails. (Put your shoes by the door they’ll be shined come morning.) Le Rosey cultivates a cosmopolitan orientation; a quota system ensures none of the 50 or so nations represented achieves more than a tenth of the student body. “Everyone there had something to offer and was someone special,” says Weems Westfeldt. “Plus, they seemed to like the skiing. It was a social thing. For the wealthy European skier, skiing is something you do on the way to lunch and at Rosey they got good enough so they could do that.” What more can a parent ask of $130,000-plus per year in tuition? 123

cortina

snow days, grappa nights SKIING THE GOOD LIFE IN ITALY’S CAPTIVATING CORTINA D’AMPEZZO Story by Leslie Anthony Photos by MATTIAS FREDRIKSSON 124

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C TOP TO BOTTOM

Pizza, the great Italian appeaser of skier appetites, was everywhere.

1. Savoring Cortina’s good life along the Corso Italia. 2. Pizzeria Ariston in the heart of the village.

hildren living in snowy places dream of storms that will bring a day off school. In Cortina d’Ampezzo in the Italian Dolomites, where 66 feet of snow fell last winter, schools closed for a week because parents were worried their kids might be buried by snow calving from the glacier-like roofs above them. With the alpine largely shuttered during a series of mega-storms that started just before Christmas and stretched into March, the valley’s guides worked double-time cleaning off roofs and digging out cars. Some say it was the most snow they’d seen in 50 years. Since no one keeps records of such things in Italy, let’s just say it had been a while since the citizens of Cortina had seen anything like it—and since skiers had enjoyed such a bounty in a place traditionally known for sunny, wide-open cruising. Though last winter was anything but normal in Cortina— center of Dolomiti Superski, the world’s largest ski domain with 12 ski areas, 450 lifts and 746 miles of pistes linked by a single ticket—it certainly didn’t disappoint. We’d arrived late at night to Hotel Capannina in a deepening late-February snowfall, greeted by a manager right out of a 1960s Italian movie dressed in a black turtleneck with Buddy Holly glasses. Expecting either a Peter Sellers comedy to break out or a swooning Sophia Loren at the bar, we instead downed solemn shots of grappa amid assurances that tomorrow would be another of this winter’s many epic days. Most of Cortina’s main ski area of Tofane faces south, so the snow can get baked quickly. But when it’s cloudy and as deep as it was that day, you’re in for a rare treat. We experienced the previous night’s assurances as secret, waist-deep tree-skiing never discussed outside of local bars. When the afternoon sun appeared to chase the clouds we headed to the infamous Olimpia delle Tofane World Cup downhill piste, its impeccably groomed top section dropping steeply and invitingly between rock buttresses known as the “Labirinti.” This unusual gap could be natural, but you can’t put it past Italians to have dynamited it out just for effect. As it turns out, this run is also etched in the pantheon of ski-race history. Cortina d’Ampezzo (translation: Curtain of the Ampezzo Valley) hosted the 1956 Olympic Winter Games, and, like most post-Olympic villages, no one is allowed to forget—as

a ski jump looming outside town attests. Furthermore, the Italian invention of Giant Slalom made its international debut here. A downhill race scheduled for January 19, 1935 above Lake Maggiore in Piedmont, had to be modified because of lack of snow. In place of the classic, open downhill, the FISI (Italian Ski Federation) commissioner of the time prepared a new course with gates that forced racers to follow a specific path. Because the 984-foot vertical was small, he decided the race should be two runs. Pleased with the formula, FISI officially introduced Giant Slalom at the Italian Championships a month later in Cortina. History is what Italy is all about, whether races or architecture, and Cortina boasts no small amount of the latter, as we observed on our way to a much-deserved après-ski. Behind the village square and Corso Italia pedestrian zone, the road splits around a tiny, ancient church that can accommodate no more than 20 people; if there was anyone in it as we passed they were likely praying for it to stop snowing. The landmark bell tower on the square, visible from anywhere, is surrounded by classic, four- and five-star hotels and their patios including Hotel Cortina (dating to 1870) plus numerous restaurants and wine bars like our destination, Rita and Gerolamo Gaspari’s Enoteca Cortina, a Cortina must-visit. We slithered down a crowded staircase into a tiny, labyrinthine space where there seemed no chance of sitting until miraculously, a table-full of beautiful women from Milan abandoned their table in a cloud of perfume and clinking gold. No sooner had we parked than a man’s voice sang out from the bar. “What do you need—Prosecco? Of course!” And before we could answer a bottle had appeared. Girolamo (Gerry to regulars) and his family have run Enoteca Cortina for almost 50 years, keeping crowds perpetually spilling from doorways at either end into different streets with prompt service and plates of local dried meats and cheeses compliments of the house. It’s a perfect place to enjoy après and discover that the person who just slapped you in the face was really just telling someone next to them how amazing their day was when you got in the way of their hands. Back on the square, more substantial fare was available in any direction. Pizza, the great Italian appeaser of skier appetites, was everywhere, but we chose Pizzeria Cinque Torri because of its large and varied menu of 127

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pasta dishes, including a much-heralded version of the regional specialty—casunziei all’Ampezzana, ravioli half-moons stuffed with tender red beets and poppy seeds and topped with melted butter, more poppy seeds and a generous dusting of Parmesan cheese. Locals swore by this or that pasta-maker’s version of the dish, and everyone had their favorite place for it. It didn’t take long to develop our own preferred gnosh-pit for beetroot ravioli: Rifugio Scoiattoli atop the Cinque Torri ski area, where we’d landed next day.

Cortina d’Ampezzo translation: Curtain of the Ampezzo Valley

When it was storming out, local advice was to head to Cinque Torre, where the skiing was as protected as the 270-degree view was stunning. From the bottom, the area appeared small and compact, but up top Cinque Torre was a Russian Doll that unpacked gullies and slots offering perfect betweenpiste playgrounds. There was also no shortage of long cruiser runs, and Cinque Torri’s highest chair, the Averau, was emblematic of the kind of ski safari you could link them with here. From the col where it let off, you ski to a valley bottom in the opposite direction, re-ascend to another pass, descend to yet another valley, head up a platter-lift, then ski back to Cinque Torri having traversed three ski areas and 9,800 vertical feet in less than an hour. It was this circuit that introduced us to the historic ramparts of Piccolo Lagazuói. The Dolomites’ towering peaks rise above the surrounding countryside like so many limestone fortresses, and many were actually used for just this purpose. You can go far back in time to chart the many times this ragged range stood in the way of one invader or another, no more true than for Lagazuói, where Austrians and Italians waged the infamous “battle of the caves” during the First World War. During that time, both Italian and Austrian troops dug extensive tunnel systems through Lagazuói’s 1,968-foot limestone face, from which they could not only overlook and defend their own front lines, but also blow up the enemy from below. There wasn’t much to fight about in Cortina last winter unless you were a snowplow operator, but you could still experience the tunnels as an open-air museum, skiing to, and walking through them. Next day found us looking down on both Tofane and Cinque Torri from the busy deck of hostel-like Rifugio Lagazuói at 9,200 feet, where we would spend the night. To celebrate our many ski routes of the past few days from this aerie, we ordered a bottle of Barbaresco and, as the clouds rolled in, toasted a single thought: that Cortina’s kids would get another day off from school. www.cortina.dolomiti.org

More on Cortina on page 130 128 Atop Tofane looking down on Cortina.

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Cortina & The Corso Italia

Rare finds slopeside and along the avenues of Cortina’s pedestrian quarter

“What do you need—Prosecco? Of course!” STAY Hotel Cortina The Hotel Cortina overlooking Corso Italia—Cortina’s vibrant pedestrian quarter—has been a mainstay since 1870. The hotel’s longstanding ambiance of rare elegance—antique wood, floral motifs, and ironworks crafted by local masters—has also benefitted from the recent addition of a restaurant. Après-ski is served from a bar that spills out onto lively Corso Italia.

amidst Swiss-like scenery, this place brings it all together. www.ristorante5torri.it

Rifugio Scoiattoli Don’t miss lunch atop the Cinque Torri chairlift in the old world ambiance of Rifugio Scoiattoli. The deck is great, but inside, a giant wood-burning stove warms you while the famiglia Lorenzi, serves highly traditional recipes with a focus on regional ingredients. www.rifugioscoiattoli.it

www.hotelcortina.com

Rifugio Lagazuói Situated at 9,200 feet on the summit of Mount Lagazuoi above Passo Falzarego, Rifugio Lagazuói is one of the highest mountain inns in the Dolomites. Rent a private room or join the ski-touring crowd in the bunk rooms. The spacious deck— famous for its sweeping views of the Dolomiti—is also an excellent starting point for touring the mountain’s open air WWI museum. www.rifugiolagazuoi.com

Cooking in a Cortina kitchen

Hotel Capannina Situated on a quiet, sunny street, Hotel Capannina is a typical three-star mountain-style hotel consisting of an original central unit with rooms, bar, restaurant, fitness center, sauna, and a newer satellite building with more modern rooms. It’s a quick walk to the Col Drusiè tram, located beside Cortina’s storied ice rink. www.hotelcapannina cortina.it

Gerolamo Gaspari tending bar at Enoteca Cortina.

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EAT Pizzeria Cinque Torri The Pizzeria Cinque Torri is usually busy and for a reason: if you love Italian food and German beer served

Ristorante Tivoli Ristorante Tivoli is one of Cortina’s top three eateries. With the head chef as owner and his wife a gracious hostess, you can expect delicious food and courteous service amidst comfortable décor. www.ristorante tivolicortina.it

DRINK Enoteca Cortina The cave-like Enoteca Cortina is Italy’s first wine bar and remains Cortina’s most sought-after après spot. Enoteca offers an unbeatable atmosphere and genuine service from people who know their wines and always make you feel at home. www.enotecacortina.com

Hotel de la Poste The American Bar in Hotel de la Poste is affectionately known as “Cortina’s living room.” Barman Antonio Di Franco holds court in the long, narrow room that’s swathed in leather and wood paneling. Ask about the refuge’s history—yes, it was once a post office, and the hotel also served as headquarters of the Austro‑Hungarian Army. www.delaposte.it

Casunziei all’Ampezzana (beetroot ravioli), a Cortina specialty.

Metamorphosis, an Hermès story

resources

SNOWcietieS

snow style

snow flurries

Resources fendi

PASS THE BUCK OR PASS THE PUCK? TAOS AND BANFF HAVE TWO VERY DIFFERENT TAKES ON COWBOY SKI CULTURE

Ballet at the Banff Centre

Watch out for: Elk

CORTINA COMFORTS • LE ROSEY EXPOSED • SNOW BUNNY ETIQUETTE

Après-ski sip: Chile-infused margarita

Leisure Society by Shane Baum Brighton in Brown $715 M. Miller

HIGH SEASON 2015

Got the blues? the Royals do, and now so does st. MoRitz-style apRès-skiinG

Watch out for: Wild Horses

CONTENTS

by the snow fashion editoRs

Pulp Fiction celeb: John Travolta

Canadiana ski: Snowday

Fight the brrrrr with bedazzling fur, liqueur, and a handsome monsieur.

Pretty Woman celeb: Julia Roberts

116 Coming up rosEy

Boot of choice: Ugg

Hat of choice: Cowboy

Canadiana coat: Moose Knuckles

HIGH SEASON 2015 EIGHT DOLLARS

Cover Image

What to wear: Patagonia

PhotograPhs by anthony Friend styLed by shiFteh shahbazian

Photo: Bachi Mahula

Local crooner: Dan Mangan

ON THE COVER Gorgeous Guisela in a fur jacket, parka and pants by SOS. Earrings, necklace and ring by Mish. Skis by Bomber.

Basso

Local talent: Last to Know

Royal Blues

Page 44 Vuarnet Sunglasses

Bally Blitum Boots $1,350

Postcard Gleason Pants $575

www.gorsuch.com

www.bally.com

www.postcard.it

Sportalm Sonal Zip Jacket $498 Sportalm Featherlock Stretch Pant $698

Page 22 Duvetica Deione-erre Jacket $800

WWW.vuarnet.com

www.jillroberts.com

WWW.SNODAY.CA

Chaos Lux Hat and Mittens

Marmot Thea Jacket $190

www.mishnewyork.com

Mish Earrings $3,900 Mish Necklace $52,000 Mish Ring $64,000

UGG Boots

WWW.CHAOSHATS.COM

www.marmot.com

WWW.UGGAUSTRALIA.COM

Fendi Coat

Skea Sari OTB Pant $368

Moose Knuckles

WWW.FENDI.COM

www.skealimited.com

www.mishnewyork.com

WWW.MOOSEKNUCKLESCANADA.COM

Nobis Jacket

Hasselblad Camera

Bomber Skis $2,500

In Taos Kästle Skis

WWW.NOBIS.CA

www.hasselbladusa.com

Fusalp Jacket

www.paulshark.it

www.kaestle-ski.com

WWW.FUSALP.COM/EN

Frauenschuh Christie Pants $898

Patagonia Jacket

Perfect Moment Jacket

www.colesport.com gorsuch.com

www.mishnewyork.com

WWW.PATAGONIA.COM

www.perfectmoment.com

Be Dazzled

™

Page 102-103 Gorski Crema Après Ski Vest $695

WWW.DENNISBASSO.COM

www.gorskifurs.com

M. Miller Jacket

Frauenschuh Gloria Leather & Wool Gloves $198 Not available in US Newland $300 Not available in US Bootights Darbie’s Lacy Lee $25

Parajumpers Coat WWW.PARAJUMPERS.IT/EN

www.bootights.com snow style

snow style

Better tools for humans

Buy now at klhip.com or 888.482.1795

Basso Coat

WWW.MMILLERFUR.COM

ESKy fLAvoR

HELLO KITTY

anna trzebinski

GolDberGH

Elan

Page 104 SOS Fur Jacket $5,400 SOS Parka $625 SOS Gene Pant $549

kask

SKEA

COlMaR

go green

J.LINDEBERG

Hot pink and riveting orange sHine brigHt against tHe snow. go aHead… radiate, you skiing Hottie

Purr-fect prints run all over this season’s sexy haute-ski-couture. Meow!

by tHe snow fasHion editors

By the snow fashion editors

sportlam

www.Sportinglife.ca

Get the Green liGht on the slopes this winter!

SupERDRy

hALtI

Mish Earrings $3,900 Mish Necklace $52,000 Mish Ring $64,000

bERgans Of nORway

By the snow fashion editors

moncler

BoGNER

buccellati

www.mishnewyork.com hELLy hANSEN

Bomber Skis $2,500

kJUs nIls

toni sailer

WWW.BOMBERSKI.COM

TECnICa

gOldwIn

DALE of NoRwAy mouNtAIN foRcE pajar jet set

Vist

OaklEy

hERmES

Hello Kitty

Hello Hottie

Go Green

www.leisure-society.com

WWW.JLINDEBERG.COM

WWW.COLMAR.IT

Anna Trzebinski Scarf

Skea Front Zip

Kjus Puffy

www.annatrzebinski.com

WWW.SKEALIMITED.COM

WWW.KJUS.COM

Buccellati Broach

Superdry One Piece

Goldwin Jacket

WWW.BUCCELLATI.COM

WWW.SUPERDRY.COM

WWW.GOLDWIN-SPORTS.COM

Sportalm Jacket

Halti Pullover

Bergans of Norway Jacket

WWW.SPORTALM.AT/EN

WWW.HALTI.COM

WWW.BERGANS.COM

Jet Set Jacket

Mountain Force Ski Skirt

Nils Jacket

WWW.JETSET.CH/EN

www.mountainforce.com

WWW.NILS.US

Toni Sailer Jacket

Bogner Jacket

Tecnica Moon Boot

WWW.TONISAILER.AT

WWW.BOGNER.COM

WWW.TECNICAUSA.COM

Goldbergh Jacket

Helly Hansen Hoodie

Oakley Backpack

WWW.GOLDBERGH.COM

WWW.HELLYHANSEN.COM

WWW.OAKLEY.COM

Moncler Jacket

Dale of Norway Sweater

Kask Helmet

ENG.MONCLER.COM

WWW.DALEOFNORWAY.COM

WWW.KASK.IT

Pajar Boot

Hermès Bag

Elan Skis

WWW.PAJAR.COM

WWW.HERMES.COM

www.elanskis.com

Vist Hat

Esky Flavor Hat

WWW.VIST.IT

WWW.ESKYFLAVOR.COM

Page 46 Leisure Society Sunglasses

Page 48 J.Lindeberg Jacket

Second Daughter Earrings $119

Contents Image

www.Sportinglife.ca

HELLO HOTTIE

www.dsquared.com

Page 112 Herno Jacket $565

lees pearson-aspen Black Lizard Day Bag $1,900 Bloomingbirds, Aspen (970) 925-2241 or Lees Pearson (970) 618-7984 Mish Baroque Freshwater Pearl Necklace $27,600 Mish Pavé Dome Earclips with Enhancer Drops $64,000 Mish Hana Bamboo Bangle $33,000 Mish Bond Bow Bangle $32,000

leisure society

D’Squared Sunglasses $222

www.pilartarrau.com

GUISELA Vest Gorski $695 gloves Frauenschuh $198 dress Newland $300 tights Bootights $25 Camera Hasselblad

Mish Ava Earrings $68,000 Mish Bond Bow Bangle $32,000

WWW.BOMBERSKI.COM

www.mmillerfurs.com

Pilar Tarrau Fur Belt Price available on request

THIS PAGE Guisela wearing an outer jacket by Duvetica, inner jacket by Marmot, and pants by Skea. Camera by Hasselblad.

perfect MoMent

Photos: Anthony Friend Stylist: Shifteh Shahbazian See Be Dazzled! Page 102.

Page 42 In Banff Snoday Skis

Page 111 M. Miller Corine Jacket $1,100

www.second-daughter.com fusalp

Road Runner: Toyota Four Runner

Snowcieties

SOS Fur Jacket $5,400 SOS Parka $625 SOS Gene Pant $549

124 snow DAys, grAppA nights Skiing and savoring Italy’s bellissima Cortina d’Ampezzo.

SNOW BUNNY ETIQUETTE

SWITZERLAND’S MOST EXCLUSIVE SKI SCHOOL

parajuMpers

When you’re not skiing... you go fly fishing

ASPEN EXTREMES

Luxury SUV: GMC Terrain Denali

Helmets begone! Bedazzling après-ski is back, with bejeweled tones, ferocious fur, soft whites, leopard prints, and luscious leather. Big hair included. Ladies, toss those tresses

Royals, aristocrats, scions of screen stars... they are the students of a Swiss ski boarding school titled Le Rosey.

chaos/lux

CORTINA COMFORTS

BE DAZZLED!

102 BE DAZZLED!

noBis

Taos all-mountain board: Kastle MX98

snow style

08/10/14 09:32

08:02

05_225,4x276,2_SnowMagazine_4C_US.indd 1

Iconic adobe lodge: Taos Country Inn

When you’re not skiing... you play hockey

LE ROSEY EXPOSED Hermes.com

Art by El Moises

Iconic ski lodge: Chateau Lake Louise

royal blues

Taos

Photo: Don lee

Banff High Tea drink: The Hi Ball

vuarnet

Page 50 Colmar Jacket

Page 105 On Guisela Postcard Garceau Fur Jacket $1,550 www.postcard.it

Fusalp Davos Pants $610 Performance Ski Aspen (970) 925-8657 Glamourpuss Super Slouch hat in Ivory $315

Page 106 On Guisela Paul and Shark Nylon Goose Down Jacket $1,550

Performance Ski, Aspen (970) 925-8657 Moncler Sweater Price available upon request Moncler New York Boutique, (646) 350-3620 Kamik Seatle Boots $115

www.stefankaelin.com

Page 113 On Guisela Frauenschuh Elektra One Piece $849 www.colesports.com

M. Miller Fox Fur Headband $220 www.mmillerfurs.com

D’Squared Sunglasses $274 Bogner Nuara Fur Collar $349 www.bogner.com

Page 108 On Mirjana One Moon Everything Wrap $1,400

Unuetzer High Heel Shoe $480

www.onemoon.com

Mish Mammoth Ivory Nugget Necklace $32,000

On Mirjana Bogner Ciska Jacket $599 Bogner Elaine Pant $499

www.kamik.com

www.mishnewyork.com

www.shop-us.bogner.com

Mish Fire Opal Pendant $70,000 Mish Simple Box Earrings $10,500

Maison Ullens Turtleneck Sweater $990

Nicole Miller Artelier Fur Vest comparable styles available

www.mishnewyork.com

Erin Snow Peri Printed Thermal Compression Leggings $148

www.nicolemiller.com

www.erinsnow.com

www.unuetzer.de

Goldbergh Multi-function Fur Scarf/Hood $235

Glamourpuss Oversize slouch in Colorblock $375

www.goldbergh.com

www.glamourpussnyc.com

Skea Tzarina Rex Rabbit/Chinchilla Fur Hat $788 First Trax, VT (800) 338 6303 or www. Skealimited.com Leisure Society by Shane Baum Highgate in Blonde Tortoise $715 On Mirjana Authier Vest $2,000 Comparable styles available Performance Ski, Aspen (970) 925-8657 Elie Tahari Roxanna Pant $998

www.maisonullens.com

On Guisela Maison Ullens Short Sleeve Top $560 Maison Ullens Short Leather and Knit Vest $2,700 Maison Ullens Cotton Pants $630 www.maisonullens.com

Bogner Nuara Fur Collar $349

www.unuetzer.de

Unuetzer High Heel Shoe $480

Leisure Society by Shane Baum Byron in Black $645 www.leisure-society.com

Mish Double Arden Earrings $14,500 www.mishnewyork.com

Page 114 Bally Leather Blouson Jacket $3,295 Bally Wide Leg Pant $650

www.elietahari.com

www.bogner.com

Perfect Moment Après Pullover Sweater $500

lees pearson-aspen Natural Beaver Hobo with Crocodile Trim $3,800 Bloomingbirds, Aspen (970)925-2241 or Lees Pearson (970) 618-7984

www.bally.com

Page 109 Duohtavuohta Kiruna Jacket $2,200

www.leisure-society.com

www.duohtavuohta.com

www.mishnewyork.com

Moncler White Sweater $820 Moncler New York Boutique, (646) 350-3620 Alp-n-Rock Kitzbuhler Skirt $199

Page 115 Yves Salomon Beaver Dyed Jacket $4,500

www.perfectmoment.com

Gorski Sobel Chinchilla Vest $1,700 www.gorskifurs.com

www.mishnewyork.com

Skea Tzarina Rex Rabbit/Chinchilla Fur Hat $788 First Trax, VT (800) 338-6303 or www. skealimited.com Kamik Luxembourg Boots $120

Tecnica Skandia Boots $400

www.kamik.com

www.tecnicausa.com

Pilar Tarrau Shari-Liu Weekender Bag Price available on request

On Mirjana Goldbergh Faux Fur Knit Sweater $425 Goldbergh Retro Sporty Ski Pant $350

www.pilartarrau.com

Cornelia James Deerskin Ski Mitten with Possum Fur $410

www.alpnrock.com

www.yves-solomon.fr

Kamik Luxembourg Boots $120

Belstaff York Jeans $550

www.goldbergh.com/shop

www.corneliajames.com/ski

www.kamik.com

www.belstaff.com

Glamourpuss Super Slouch Hat in Ivory $315

Leisure Society by Shane Baum Lummi Sunglasses $715

www.glamourpussnyc.com

www.leisure-society.com

lees pearson-aspen Natural Tibetan Lamb Hobo with Chocolate Nile Crocodile Trim $3,800 Bloomingbirds, Aspen (970) 925-2241 or Lees Pearson (970) 618-7984

Page 107 Dennis Basso Fur Price available on request

www.glamourpussnyc.com

Mish Makena Earrings $17,800

www.dennisbasso.com

Leisure Society by Shane Baum Sunglasses $715 Mish Makena Earrings $38,000

Mish Bonnelle Lariat Necklace $42,000 Page 110 Fendi Creatures Ski Jacket $3,300 Fendi Half and Half Bicolour Ski Trousers $800 www.fendi.com

Cornelia James Gloves $410 www.corneliajames.com/ski

www.mishnewyork.com

Bell and Ross WW1 Argentium Opaline Dial $5,900 Westime-Beverly Hills (310) 271-0000 & Tourneau Time Machine NYC (212) 758-7300 Elie Tahari The Haines Bootie $385 www.elietahari.com

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snow scenes

a snow affair

SNOW SCENES

MAKING THE SNOW SCENE IN NYC: BOMBER, BOGNER, GRAFFITI ARTISTS, AND AT LEAST ONE WORLD CHAMPION 02

Photos by Shawn Punch and Seth Walters

04 03

05 07

A SNOW Affair was held this fall in Bomber Ski’s edgy urban penthouse high above NYC’s Central Park. More than 70 members of the media and la crème de la crème of Manhattan were in attendance. The night’s highlights included an exclusive unveiling of Bomber’s new Stars and Stripes model, plus an intro to the ski manufacturer’s new ambassador, Marc Girardelli, a five-time World Cup overall champion. Sponsors and presenters included Bogner, St. Regis Deer Valley, Sentient Jet, Majestic Heli Ski, and Leisure Society. Thanks go out to Celebrity Chef Peter Callahan, Patron, Ultimate Vodka, XO Café, The Macallan, RdV & Landmark Vineyards, and Radeberger Pilsner. Special thanks to graffiti artists Ellis Gallagher, Luke Kendall, and Domingo Zapata.

on the runway THE STARS SHONE BRIGHTLY IN EARLY DECEMBER FOR THE THIRD ANNUAL SNOW FASHION BEAVER CREEK RUNWAY SHOW. TOP SKI BRANDS, MODELS, AND SKI RACING CELEBRITIES HELPED LAUNCH THIS SEASON’S HOTTEST COLLECTIONS. Photos by John-Ryan Lockman and Barbara Sanders

The third annual SNOW Fashion Beaver Creek lit up the village during the Birds of Prey World Cup ski races. Smartwool created buzz as the title sponsor, and Beaver Creek Village was filled with people from around the world sipping Korbel Champagne and drinking Glühwein. Star athletes, models, and kids took to the SNOW stage to present the best in ski fashion 134

for the coming season. Ski stars included Sarah Schleper, Patrik Jaerbyn, Brenda Buglione, Charlotte Moats, Lucas Evans, and Tim Cafe. Gorsuch, Christy Sports, Beaver Creek Sports, and Generation Beaver Creek were among the participating retailers. Top brands on the runway included Smartwool, Bogner, Mountain Force, Snow Sugar, Skea,

Helly Hansen, and Kask. Runway looks were available at in-store style parties following the event. Beaver Creek Village proved to be the ideal starting gate to launch this season’s hottest skiwear. 1. Bogner 2. Smartwool 3. Snow Sugar 4. Skea 5. Generation BC 6. Gorsuch 7. Kask 8. Mountain Force 9. Christy Sports

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last run Photo: Camerique/ClassicStock/Corbis

omen: Let’s bring the Snow Bunny back. SHE is strong, adventurous, turns well, and embraces the mountain experience. Plus, a well-dressed woman on the slopes has the capacity to stop fellow skiers in their tracks! SNOW asked Circe Wallace, a woman embracing her intrepid and brave Snow Bunny self. Once a fierce competitor on the pro snowboard circuit, Wallace rips up the piste and always looks fabulous. Her smart, savvy outerwear designs for Circe Snow have been described as “bold,” “technical,” “expressive,” “body enhancing” and “alluring.” For SNOW, Wallace defines the decorum and etiquette that guide this enchantress every day on the slopes.

CIRCE SAYS... Hair

When readying for a day in the Rockies, Sierras, Tetons, or Alps, a Snow Bunny always prepares her hair in a ponytail, braid, or both. This assists her in avoiding the dangers of whipping winds and wet, unwanted knots. At night, to stave off dryness, she treats her scalp to a massage with oils or lotion—on this, the Snow Bunny never forgets.

BRING BACK THE BUNNY

Hat

Before pushing off, the Snow Bunny takes care there is no gap between her goggles and her hat. This trick helps her prevent snow, wind, or frost from damaging her complexion. Again, the Snow Bunny never forgets.

Helmet

A Credo for a Snow Bunny to Ski By

A helmet, of course, is a useful and fashionable accessory—especially one in a vibrant color with an interlocked visor or goggle. Yet, said lid can lead to a nasty condition known as helmet hair. The Snow Bunny tucks a tiny beanie into her ski suit that she can don at lunch or après to camouflage flattened tresses.

by snow editors

Dress

A woman should always wear a onepiece ski suit. It ought to be comfortable 136

yet never too large, and always silhouette-enhancing. On cold days, she should layer underneath. Finally, the leg of a Snow Bunny’s pant should cover the length of one’s ski boot— never too long, and certainly never too short. A Snow Bunny takes special care of her skiwear—careful to avoid fraying or rips.

Accessories

Snow fashion accessories—belts, fur trim, a little color but not too much—are employed carefully by the Snow Bunny to dramatize lines or harmonize color. Accessories create a well-coordinated finish to any outfit, on or off the slopes.

High Tech

While connected consistently with both office and slope, the Snow Bunny hides her technology well; slipping wires and handhelds seamlessly into the inner pockets of her skiwear. Quick access is essential for contacting suitors, whom the Snow Bunny may need to text when said suitor has fallen behind.

Eau de Toilette

When visiting the Ladies, a Snow Bunny always ties the sleeves of her one-piece ski suit around her waistline to avoid contact with the floor or... uh-oh! the toilette. She almost never forgets.

Après-ski

A Snow Bunny always indulges in après-ski festivities, as this is where skiing’s heritage and modern day intersect. She excels at dancing on tables in her ski boots. And she savors these moments with a toast—to pushing limits and to ripping with friends—while taking care not to indulge too greatly.

When Après Lingers

If she has tippled a tad too much, to avoid feeling poorly the Snow Bunny sips water and takes two Advil before bed. Upon waking she drinks coconut water—a superior hydrator—then hits the slopes at daybreak. Again, on this score, she never forgets. The Snow Bunny never, ever misses first ride up. WWW.CIRCESNOW.COM

MADISON AVE | RODEO DRIVE | FORUM SHOPS | AVENTURA MALL

Metamorphosis, an HermĂ¨s story

Hermes.com