SNOW The Alps 2018 / 2019 by SNOW

COURTING COURMAYEUR

The Alps

CHAMONIX Ã&#x20AC; LA MODE LOST IN SNOW

O N O I O T N I N I N T T E N E R T Dolomiti Didi Brenta The Golden Age of ski poster art

WINTER 18/19

SPO RTS W E A R W I NT E R 1 8 /1 9

AWA A L L W E AT H E R A C T I V I T Y

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AWA A L L W E AT H E R A C T I V I T Y

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Wow! You felt a real peak of adrenaline when you hit the slope and your heart was pumping pure emotion. When you caught up with your friends who were admiring the mountain crests, you burst out laughing because the peaks reminded you of your own pulse rate. So, now, is your heart ready for some amazing cuisine, a spa and a starry night, too? Look for new sensations on visittrentino.info.

italian alpine experience

The Alps with an Italian touch.

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CMY

THE ALPS 2018/19

CONTENTS 66 JUNGLE LOVE Embrace your sense of adventure by wearing this safari inspired, fashion forward trend.

80 BECOMING SIERRAC O M I N G Known as a professional freeskier, model, and sports film star, Sierra Quitiquit considers being an activist for climate change and social equality her most important role.

86 LOST IN SNOW An old coal mining town with an ‘80s vibe, Fernie’s steep slopes and piles of powder are well worth the trek.

94 CHAMONIX À LA MODE The quintessential hub of le ski , Cham has it all: Glittering peaks, gold standard restaurants, and gorgeous refuges.

102 COURTING COURMAYEUR A place of colliding sensibilities, with outrageous skiing and fabulous food, the complex obverse of the Mont Blanc coin deserves a look.

110 MASQUERADE Fabulous costumes and smokin’ ski couture make your fashion fantasies come true. THIS PAGE / ON THE COVER Model Courtney Vogler Photography by Christian Alexander Styled by John Martinez Ski wear by Toni Sailer Eyewear by Vuarnet Gloves by Level 20

WINTER 2018/19 SNOW FLURRIES 32

Glacial gastronomy, glamping, and Gstaad’s Dr. Igor. Gold-plated skis and crystal covered gondies. The latest and greatest on the white circuit.

SNOW STYLE 38

32 46

Go green! Save the white!

APRÈS 42

Mix and mingle with the Almanach de Gotha at the privatest clubs.

SKI TO LUNCH 44

Come with an appetite. Der Wolf’s regional, farm to fork dishes delight.

SUITES 48

Historic heritage marries five-star luxury at Lake Louise’s Fairmont Chateau.

HELI 52

Champagne flows and private helicopters are at your beck and call. The magic of Albreda Lodge.

BOUTIQUE 56

Bernard Orcel serves up stellar service and bespoke glam.

SNOW CULTURE 58

Franz Lenhart’s Italian travel posters celebrate the glamour of winter sports.

LAST RUN 120

Chris Davenport’s revelation.

PUBLISHER Barbara Sanders EDITOR IN CHIEF Melissa Long melissa@thesnowmag.com

C H I E F E D I T O R I A L A N D C R E AT I V E O F F I C E R Barbara Sanders barb@thesnowmag.com

ART DIRECTOR Julius M. Yoder III julius@thesnowmag.com

EUROPEAN EDITOR

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

PRINT A ND DIGITA L C ONTRIBU TORS

Leslie Woit

Lori Knowles

Christian Alexander, Leslie Anthony, Antonio Cordero, Renato del Valle, Daniela Federici, Andrew Findlay, Mattias Fredriksson, Shinan Govani, Louise Hudson, Carlos Johnson, Lori Knowles, Jen Laskey, Melissa Long, Michael Mastarciyan, Audrey Mead, Diego Munita, Hilary Nangle, Meredith Ogilvie-Thompson, Steve Ogle, Peter ‘Poby’ Pobyjpicz, Everett Potter, Gerald Sanders, David Shribman, Rob Story, Leslie Woit

CRE ATI V E DIREC TOR

A S SOCI ATE FA SHION EDITOR

Julius M. Yoder III

Michael Mastarciyan

FASHION EDITOR

FASHION EDITORIAL TE AM

John Martinez

John Martinez, Becci Wilson

GEAR EDITOR

DIGITA L DIREC TOR

Austin Parker

Julius M. Yoder III

ADVERTISING SALES

EUROPEAN ADVERTISING SALES

Sales Director

Sales Manager

Barbara Sanders (970) 948-1840 barb@thesnowmag.com

Debbie Topp (905) 770-5959 debbiejtopp@hotmail.com

CESANA MEDIA Sales Manager

Sales Manager - UK

Martina Diez-Routh +44(0) 750 838-2781 Paolo Mongeri paolo.mongeri@cesanamedia.com martina@the-ski-guru.com

This issue is dedicated to Jodie Peters Pralong who was killed in an avalanche in Switzerland last winter. She will forever live in our hearts as a friend and lover of the sport. 24

Â© Sindy Thomas

@ROSSIGNOLAPPAREL

ANOTHER BEST DAY

W HIVER DOWN JACKET

ur lovefest with the Alps continues in this second special edition of SNOW ─ The Alps as we celebrate the best of alpine life. We simply cannot get enough of the magical mélange of fabulous resorts, amazing hotels, and on mountain refuges. Feeling very much at home here, we shine the spotlight on living the high life in the Alps: Whether your pleasure is dancing on tables in your ski boots at la Folie Douce’s après or donning your most splendid finery for an afternoon passeggiata. This issue is packed full of fashion, fun, and fabulous Alpine stories and destinations. Chamonix à la Mode is an ode to the place where alpinism and fine dining intersect. If Chamonix were a religion, its practitioners would be obliged to summit peaks monthly and ski narrow couloirs to demonstrate their faith. They would also know the subtleties of each fromage and vins de la region that exist as their holy communion. Leslie Woit takes you inside as only a local can. Leslie Anthony’s story and Mattias Fredriksson’s images of Courmayeur literally transport you to the Italian side of Mont Blanc. The Italians have figured out “La Dolce Vita” for centuries and in Courmayeur, they are virtuosos. The sun shines brightly, the grappa and prosecco flow, and the spaghetti alle vongole is to die for. And then there is the skiing. High above the town, steep terrain invites with Monte Bianco surveying the grandeur that is Courmayeur from above. This issue has two fashion editorials, one was inspired by Truman Capote’s Black and White Ball ─ to this day still considered “The Party of the Century”. Receiving a coveted invitation was harder than skiing The Hahnenkamm Run after the race in Kitzbühel . Both secretive and suggestive, the art of disguise is as seductive as it is sassy. SNOW invited top European and North American fashion brands as well as a few brash newcomers to our Masquerade SNOW Ball and Spanish photographer Antonio Cordero and stylist John Martinez brought our vision to life at the palatial Villa Padierna in Marbella, Spain. Our second fashion editorial Jungle Love uses lush vegetation and a safari theme to play with the camos, khakis, and animal prints appearing in many collections this ski season. We’ve long been fascinated by the fabulous ski posters from the past. They became an art form in their own right. In many ways, they are mere advertisements for the different regions and resorts, but as an enduring art form they evoke a longing to travel and ski. Franz Lenhart was one of the masters and David Shribman muses on why these posters have such a lasting appeal. For Lost in Snow, writer Andrew Findlay and photographer 26

Steve Ogle have spilled the beans on the Fernie Factor ─ also referred to as Canada’s Niseko. If this cool, authentic town isn’t on your radar, it will be once you read the story and see its flake-laden images. Be sure to pack your fat skis and a snorkel. Let it SNOW!

P H OTO B Y D I E G O M U N I TA D M C P H OTO .

PUBLISHER’S LETTER

IT’S SNOW TIME!

EDITOR’S LETTER

FINDING HAPPINESS

appiness. So often elusive when we try to pin it down and very difficult to define, we know it when we feel it. Experts list experiencing awe, enjoying exercise, photographing meaningful things, forming social connections, and spending time in nature as key factors in cultivating happiness. Skiing anyone? A day on the slopes covers that list and then some. Studies old and new tell us something skiers have known forever: Skiing promotes happiness. The social aspects of chairlift conversations and après antics contribute to well-being as much as schussing down the slopes. Call it eco-therapy if you will, but a day on the mountain pretty much cures all ails ─ waiting for the bowl to open, chatting on the chairlifts, standing at the top of a run enjoying the view, finding untracked terrain. Inspiring elation is at the heart of this edition: Fashion we covet, places we long to explore, and a bucket list of possibilities to capture joy. This latest issue – showcasing gorgeous new-season collections, serving up the latest après picks, and offering adrenaline junkies epic adventures – will give you as much pleasure to read as it gave us to create. Dipping into our considerable talent pool of writers and photographers, our team has put together a beautiful and meaningful package of words and images that brims with suggestions we believe might make our readers, you, happy. Enjoyment is far better shared than hoarded. Classic descents, heli adventures, and skeleton tobogganing may be added to your wish list after reading SNOW ─ The Alps. We share destinations that will delight all types of skiers. And knowing that all great ski days are not complete without the sensual pleasures of eating, we share our secrets: From hole-in-the-wall dives to Michelinstarred delights. After all, après is essential. Fashion is one of the great pleasures in life and our gurus impart amazing advice for the season. Who doesn’t enjoy a little retail therapy? Our Masquerade shoot was inspired by the gorgeous photos that captured the timeless elegance of Truman Capote’s grand black and white ball in 1966. Some things never change; the black and white palette is consistently modish. Whether you choose Chanel’s alluring ski collection or prefer to channel your inner hippie with ‘60s style, the latest haute couture is simply hot. As is our second photo shoot! Our safari-inspired fashion photographs elicit simplicity, sexiness, 28

and a sense of adventure. Photographer Antonio Cordero perfectly captures these on trend Out of Africa looks. As this edition came together I reflected on resetting my happiness barometer. If we remember to pause, we can find joy in so many little things: stomach-aching laughter with friends, freshies, good hugs, alpenglow, snow dances. I love planning a ski trip – from looking at trail maps to booking restaurants. Organizing adventures and anticipating weekend escapes absolutely reenergizes me and I look forward to both the trip and the lasting memories. Whether you plan a quick weekend heli-ski adventure, tick off a bucket list piste, or indulge in some serious spa treatments, choose something this winter for you. Close your eyes, breathe, and visualize what makes you happy. Go ski! Melissa Long Editor in Chief

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CONTRIBUTORS

SNOW TALENT ANTONIO CORDERO

LESLIE ANTHONY

ANDREW FINDLAY

PHOTOGRAPHER

Writer

WRITER

Madrid-based photographer Antonio Cordero loves to shoot fashion and ski in Austria. In that order. He gives the dish on his Kitzbühel favorites. Best run? “ Schwarzsee followed by well-earned hot chocolate.” His admitted adrenaline junkie fix is the Mausefalle section of the Streif in icy conditions right after the infamous downhill race. Following that daredevil fun, he enjoys checking out après antics at Club Take Five. Surrounded by fashion in his shoots, we ask what fab find he covets? The answer? “A Frauenschuh coat, of course.”

Whistler-based Leslie Anthony is a writer, editor, biologist, and occasional filmmaker. Skiing the world in a lifelong search for natural beauty and the special community of like-minded snow adventurers, he puts pen to paper to investigate alpine and Nordic ski history, skiing styles, and destinations. His name has graced the mastheads of a catalog of international ski and outdoor magazines. All this and yet when we ask what bragging rights he has earned, he quips, “I live in Whistler. No, really — I live in Whistler.” Fun fact: He also expounds on subjects ranging from imaginary monsters to fossil smuggling. With much of his life spent on two planks, Leslie shares his favorite run: The Laub in Engelberg, Switzerland “Skiing 3,000 vertical feet at 40 degrees makes for a perfect descent that would be a heli-ski run anywhere else.”

Andrew Findlay snowplowed his first turns as a four year old at Grandview Ski Acres, a long since mothballed one chair wonder on the outskirts of Kamloops, British Columbia. Based on Vancouver Island, this writer has skied with penguins on the Antarctic Peninsula, waited out at 12 day storm on Mount Fairweather while attempting a ski ascent of this remote 15,000 footer on the B.C.-Alaska border, and tested the boundaries of his psychological palate at Zen, an après favorite in Hakuba where he noshed on basashi, a carpaccio of thinly sliced horse meat (when in Japan?). His stoke for skiing around the planet is undiminished.

MATTIAS FREDRIKSSON Writer

Based in Terrace in northern British Columbia, Mattias Fredriksson is proud to call local ski hill Shames Mountain his home resort. Born in Sweden, where skiing is a national sport, Mattias learned to ski and walk simultaneously. Mattias made his first turns some 40 years ago. Later, with a camera in hand, he began to document friends’ ski adventures. As many went on to become pro skiers, Mattias realized his photography and journalism skills had surpassed his skiing. Deciding to go for it, he raced into photography. Twenty years later, ski and outdoor magazines worldwide publish his work. Often doing shoots for leading industry brands, his first love remains constant and he skis whenever and wherever he can. Always up for new challenges, his latest was a day ski touring with mountain guides and good friends. After climbing the Brenva Glacier at the foot of Mont Blanc, he skied nearly 9000 vertical feet. “Skiing the ridgeline toward Val Veny was the experience of a lifetime!”

RENATO DEL VALLE PHOTOGRAPHER When he was 14 years old, Renato del Valle discovered a whole new world when his father showed him how to take photos. Together they photographed South America’s beautiful landscapes, mountains, and lakes. Studying film and photography, he won a scholarship to Germany before moving to Chile where he developed his professional photography and digital post production work. Sao-Paulo born Renato continues to capture his travels with his camera. He has developed wide-ranging technical skills in lighting and post production affording him the opportunity to work with leading agencies and media around the world. His skiing is excellent but even Renato admits he had a difficult time keeping Candide Thovex in focus on a heli-ski shoot. “Somehow one night Candide is eating Chilean bbq at my house and I agree to film him. I didn’t really know who he was when I said yes!” As if filming doesn’t keep him busy enough, he is a self-professed urban farmer with a healthy obsession with cooking and eating healthy food.

LOUISE HUDSON Writer

STEVE OGLE PHOTOGRAPHER For the last twenty years, photographer Steve Ogle has been based in Nelson, British Columbia. This equates to a couple of centuries in “Kootenay time” as the local time warp dictates. Whitewater is his local hill and his favorite run is whichever one his two young boys lead him down. Fortunate enough to arrive on assignment in nearby Fernie last year the day after a 20+ inch overnight dump, Steve earned some bragging rights, “I was able to ski down the aptly-named, out-ofbounds and entirely epic 2000’ bowl, top to bottom, in the deepest conditions of the year.” About 30 turns into it, he found inner peace. When asked about a fashion item he covets, he laughingly said, “Don’t look to me for fashion but I do love a good hoser toque.” You might find him wearing one at his favorite bar: Mike’s Pub in Nelson, B.C .

Louise Hudson is an expert skier with an inexhaustible supply of ski tips and tales. What she doesn’t know about the latest and greatest is not worth knowing! Originally trained as a journalist in Sussex, England, she worked in Europe as a ski tour rep and then Canada as a snappy ski writer. Despite moving to South Carolina in 2010, she skis more days than most, clocking in over 1600 ski days in the past 40 years! Most recent daydream: “While dining at the Chef’s Table at Heavenly’ s Twin Pines Lake & Ski House and watching the Lake Tahoe sunset from the comfort of the Julia Morgan-designed cabin — I imagined it was all mine!” Focused on finding her flow this year she shares her not-so-zen moment. “Before going heli-skiing for the first time with CMH, I wrote my will and letters to my kids and didn’t sleep for three nights.” But she discovered that skiing totally untouched pow — with forgiving fat floaters — “was a simple stress-free symphony of sensation!”

LESLIE WOIT Writer Though she classifies her ski ability as “selectively expert”, contributor Leslie Woit knows a thing or three about skiing. And she knows about enjoying the best of the best after a day on the pistes: Bumping into skilebrities at the “it” clubs of St. Moritz and finding magnificent Michelinstarred restos. But skiing is what it is really all about. Despite it being a French word, Leslie is convinced no one does après like the Austrians. And she enjoys après. When asked what was in her wine cellar she laughed and said, “empties”! Best convo of the season? “Sliding onto the chair beside me at Lake Louise one morning was Aksel Svindal, and all his Viking loveliness. Most charming, nat ura l, chat t y, dead ly ha ndsome chairmate one could wish for. Then off he slid, straight into the start gate to a podium finish.” Lucky Leslie.

SPONSORED

Time

INNOVATION Alpina, a true pioneer of the Swiss watchmaking tradition

lpina, famous for its red triangle signature representing the renowned Matterhorn Mountain, is a fine Swiss watchmaking manufacturer based in Geneva, Switzerland. Founded in 1883 by a group of passionate watchmakers, Alpina has been the source of numerous patents resulting in an iconic Swiss sports watch design. The legendary Alpina 4 was born in 1938. Faithful to its long tradition of innovation, in 2015 Alpina introduced the first connected Swiss Made Horological Smartwatch, creating a new Swiss luxury sports watch category. The watch operates with the greatest precision and reliability in the most demanding sporting environments.

ALPINER X

Alpiner X Horological smartwatch in black fiber glass and stainless steel, r ubber br acelet, bidirectional turning compass bezel, MMT-283-1 movement and 2+ years battery life, all connected functions operated by crown.

COMPANION APP The AlpinerX App works in perfect coordination with your connected watch. It keeps your data safe and saves your logs daily to help you track your progress and achieve your goals day after day.

ALPINA RENEWS ITS PARTNERSHIP WITH THE FRENCH SKI FEDER ATION Born in the Swiss Alps, the Alpina brand shares the values of the sport of skiing: technical competencies, precision, perseverance, and respect for the mountains. Alpina has shown its commitment to the French Ski Federation and its athletes. Their excellent results in the World Cup and the latest Olympic Game in Pyeongchang further strengthens Alpina’s choice. Alpina and Olympic Bronze medal winner Victor MuffatJeandet have been partners since 2015. In September, the Swiss watchmaker and the members of the French Alpine Ski Team jointly announced the extension of their collaboration for the coming season. Alpina has created a strong team of Brand ambassadors. They have partnered with many French Ski and Snowboard

“We are proud of this partnership with the French Ski Federation, renowned for its sports and events.”

Team athletes, including Nastasia NOENS (Alpine Ski), Nelly MOENNE-LOCCOZ (Snowboard Cross), Jean-Frédéric CHAPUIS (Ski Cross), and Robin BUFFET (Alpine Ski). Oliver Van Lanschot Hubrecht, Brand Manager says, “We are proud of this partnership with the French Ski Federation, renowned for its sports results and for organizing World Class competitions and events. This collaboration helps promote this wonderful sport. Being an alpine brand, we consider it our responsibility to showcase alpine sports’ values and exemplify the importance of respecting the mountain environment.” Michel Vion, President of the French Ski Federation also notes, “Alpina is synonymous with precision and excellence, the values shared by the French Ski Teams.”

A L P I N E R X .WAT C H / A L P I N E R X

APRÈS

BY INVITATION ONLY Clubbing with the likes of the Almanach de Gotha. by LESLIE WOIT

ich in social harmony, light on the hoi polloi: St. Moritz is renowned for glittering exclusivity. The private clubs here are legendary ─ discreet yet fabled members-only zones that ensure one’s lunching, dining, and even skiing takes place among a chosen few. And when it comes to private partying, the Dracula Club is an institution. According to Dracula Club President Rolf Sachs, joining the ne plus ultra of night clubs is quite simple. “You should already know 50 percent of the people in the room,” he explained. “That’s the purpose: that everyone feels at ease with each other.” Founded in the 1970s by Rolf’s father, the late Gunter Sachs, renowned as the first true playboy, The Dracula quickly became the Alpine epicenter of the newly-minted “jetset”, a social cocktail of taste, nobility, discretion, and money. Located at the top of the Olympic bob run in a few small dark rooms at the back of the Gunter Sachs Lodge, its parties are as louche and amusing as they are closed to the public. Draculians drink lustfully from monogrammed goblets, convening to mix, mingle, and generally break out of what Rolf calls the Alltag [the everyday life]. Of course, the real mystery of any club lies with its members. Blue blood, long titles, and some familiar names dominate the clubs of St. Moritz. Appellations including Agnelli, Bismarck, Onassis, Aga Khan, Rothschild, Grimaldi and Guinness ─ shall we go on? ─ pop up again and again, among a snowstorm of vons, dis, dellas, and hyphens a-go-go. In charge of the clubhouse grounds is the Greek shipping family Niarchos. That’s 46

just the beginning for these longtime Engadin denizens: The largest private property owners in St. Moritz are also proprietors of the Corvatsch, Corviglia, and Diavolezza/Lagalb ski areas, as well as the splendidly sumptuous Kulm Hotel. A stay at the Kulm not only brings the elegant

“ You shou ld a l ready k now 50 percent of the people i n the room.”

appointments one expects from a five-star superior grand dame ─ superb dining, decadent spa, top-drawer service ─ but since last winter, guests may also choose to rent the entire Corvatsch mountain for the night. Yes, making the area’s highest skiing at nearly 10,000 feet yours until the wee hours with a lavish dinner and a private DJ is freeskiing with a difference. Most special requests are swiftly satisfied. True to tradition, the Kulm is also home to the historic members-only Cresta Club. Since 1887, mostly fearless, mostly British men gather daily at the toboggan clubhouse for their turn at the bone-snapping danger zone. In the absence of holding one’s own membership, Kulm privileges come in handy (unless you’re a woman: they are permitted to race on the final day of the season only). “The Cresta is a gentlemen’s club. Some take it very competitively, others less so,” explains Rolf Sachs. “Basically it is an agglomeration of wonderful friends ─ a vast array of people, from the local butcher to dukes and royals from many nationalities.” Roll call for the global ski elite isn’t complete without including the Corviglia Club. High above St. Moritz, this rose-hued chalet has been warming, feeding, and amusing its 150-odd members since 1930. Founded by the Duke of Alba, joining one of the world’s most exclusive high-altitude clubs is strictly by invitation ─ though by no means are they averse to accepting the occasional artistic type willing to go the extra mile. In fact, one of its more recent inductees curried favor by sketching out a design for its club puffer vest. Lord Norman Foster, the architect, is a clever one indeed.

SKI TO LUNCH

DER WOLF by BARBARA SANDERS

er Wolf opened its doors only three years ago, but it has been 15 years in the making, and more than 70 years since the idea was conceived. The owner, Christian Wolf, grew up in the tiny village of Zug, Austria, just above the world-famous ski village of Lech. Christian taught skiing at resorts around the world, trained ski instructors, and participated in the Interski in St. Anton as part of the Austrian Telemark Team. After living in far-flung ski resorts including Stratton, Vermont, Queenstown, New Zealand, and El Colorado, Chile, Christian returned to Lech to undertake a compelling project and a long-awaited vision finally came to fruition. Turn the clock back to post-World War II where ski lifts â&#x20AC;&#x201D; which first appeared in the late 1920s â&#x20AC;&#x201D; began to become de rigueur, 48

P H OTO B Y P O B Y

and hotels and infrastructure snowballed. Grandpa Friedrich Wolf contracted with the lift company to build a mountain ski hut. During the permit process, the family changed course, veering away from the original plan and resulting in a tiny guest house in Zug called Haus Furka. Christian never forgot about his grandfatherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dream and decades later, he decided to apply for a permit to build that coveted ski hut. A building permit in Austria is not an easy thing to obtain. And it is definitely not a quick process. Changing zones from agricultural to commercial is very complicated and requires many considerations including environmental impact, size, and noise. As local governments often take eons to mull over plans, many permit seekers simply give up. Not Christian. His tenacity lasted nearly

P H OTO B Y A D O L F B E R E U T E R

SKI TO LUNCH

“You feel like you are walking into some sort of mountain chapel, a place to worship the breathtaking mountain peaks that surround the hut.”

P H OTO B Y A D O L F B E R E U T E R

10 years. Finally permission was granted by the local Vorarlberg region, and he was able to begin building. Architect Bernardo Bader worked closely with Christian to design key elements to showcase the surrounding landscape. Fast forward another four years to the opening of Der Wolf. The design is simple, yet elegant. Christian describes it as “honest”. The clean lines, light-colored wood, and huge windows serve to highlight the surroundings. I felt as though I had walked into some sort of mountain chapel, a place to worship nature as I faced the breathtaking mountain peaks. The cuisine is simple, yet delicious. Knowing that many guests staying in Lech or Oberlech dine on international cuisine at their hotels, Christian wanted to focus on artfully presented dishes with a regional focus. A true locavore, he sources the meats and cheeses from the valley, milk comes from the family cow, and many ingredients are farmed nearby. I recommend starting with a skiwasser or a Stiegl beer and the “Best of the Region, Served on a Board” which is a mélange of local cheeses, speck, sausage, and venison with bread and a crunchy Arlberg stangerl. Then choose from several highlights on the menu such as the “Der Wolf” BeefBurger with homemade red-onion jam, or Kas hörnli, a noodle dish made with cheese, bacon, and roasted onions. And after skiing so hard, you’ve definitely earned a Karamellisierter Topfen - Grießschmarrn or a Germknödel for dessert. Like the architecture, the food is “honest”. Christian says, “we follow our Vorarlberg roots in everything. As you can see with both the design and the cuisine, it is less ornate and decorative than you see in the Tirol.” Honoring his grandfather’s dream, the resulting ski hut restaurant is a lovely respite from skiing. Yet, after dining, the mountains call. Christian makes a point of skiing every day. It is this love of skiing, the mountains, and the region that make Der Wolf the perfect ski to lunch spot in Lech.

Lake Louise’s Guiding Light by LESLIE WOIT

bedroom suites feature private bedrooms with luxurious ensuites as well as a separate living room. The Fairmont Gold Floor features private check-in and The Living Room, a recently renovated guestonly lounge. Guest rooms overlook the mountains and the glorious expanse of Lake Louise and Victoria Glacier. Six dining choices leave room for debate, discussion, and ultimate satisfaction regardless of your choice. Perhaps a fragrant fondue amidst authentic Swiss and Italian atmosphere in the wood-lined Walliser Stube? The elegant Fairview dining room from top to bottom

1. Aerial View of the Hotel in Winter. 2. Hotel Lobby.

PH OTO S COURT ES Y OF FAI RM ONT LAKE L OU ISE

igh above the lobby of the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, four gracious ladies watch over all who pass through these portals — lovers of wilderness, forests, and mountains, one and all. These gowned beauties are part chandelier, part Banff National Park heritage. They represent the wives of the area’s first mountain guides, Swiss immigrants who began exploring, summiting, and sharing the mountains with guests more than a century ago. By putting candles in their windows as guiding lights, the wives helped wayward parties find their ways home. Once a log cabin and today a landmark luxury property, a stay at this Rocky Mountain retreat is an homage to alpine history and mountain adventure. Located in Banff National Park, the splendid five-diamond Chateau is two hours from Calgary and just 10 minutes from Lake Louise Ski Resort. It’s the favored inn of all the national ski teams who come each December for North America’s opening World Cup races. Norway’s Aksel Lund Svindal values the friendly atmosphere that allows him to reconnect with fellow racers, and Lindsey Vonn, accompanied by Lucy, her beloved Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, appreciates the Chateau’s VIP – very important pooch — amenities, including dog-sitting, dog beds, bowls, and treats. More relaxed skiers — and by that we mean pretty much all of us — love to recharge and reset amidst the luxurious accommodations set in the crisp, clean mountain air for which Banff National Park, one of the seven Canadian Rocky Mountain Parks that make up the UNESCO World Heritage Site, is renowned. The more than 550 rooms and suites offer pillow menus and fluffy king beds. The Chateau “Suite Life” is particularly appealing: a dedicated Suite Concierge arranges dining, activities, transportation, and other special touches for guests. The newly renovated, lavish one and two

P H O T O S CO U R T E S Y O F S U N VA L L E Y R E S O R T

SUITES

Oh Canada!

SUITES

What began in 1890 as “a hotel for the outdoor adventurer and alpinist” retains its spirit — and then some. clockwise from top

provides a perfect vantage point for the panoramic splendor of Lake Louise through grand cathedral windows. Lago Italian Kitchen does superb modern Italian, and there is a wonderful tradition of Afternoon Tea — enjoy tea and finger sandwiches while enjoying the spectacular views. In these mountains, après-ski happens in the Chateau’s latest hot destination, Alpine Social, where mountain adventures and chitchat are inspired by the glory days of Canadian mountaineering. Craft beers, a fabulous wine list, and live music rub happily alongside alpine-inspired food — and it all tastes so much better at 5,200 feet. The 3,000 square foot spa is a tranquil oasis and offers more than 20 treatments — including the Mountain Hot Stone Massage, Lake Louise Soothing Lavender Dreams experience, and the Gentlemen’s Skin Workout Facial. A diverting shopping gallery includes precious jewelry, sportswear, and the not to be missed, Qiviuk, the chic boutique specialising in fine garments made from hand-harvested Canadian Arctic Musk Ox wool — softer, lighter, and warmer than cashmere. What began in 1890 as “a hotel for the outdoor adventurer and alpinist” retains its spirit — and then some. The vision of Sir William Cornelius Van Horne, President of the Canadian Pacific Railway, has evolved to delights of night-owl snowshoeing beneath the stars, to crackling campfires in the forest and cups of hot chocolate at the ice bar in between spins round the natural skating rink. Lake Louise’s legacy of sharing mountains with its guests began in the early 20th century, when Swiss guides hired by the Chateau introduced countless guests to the wonders of the Canadian Rockies. Guests now enjoy guided cross-country skiing, downhill skiing, snowshoeing, and hiking with guides from the Mountain Adventure Program. For guests of every age and activity level, a wonderful winter adventure awaits. 52

1. Walliser Stube view. 2. Boathouse lit up at night. 3. One Bedroom Mountain View Suite.

HELI

Albreda, Albreda! by LESLIE WOIT

wirls of diamond dust come to rest as the powerful A-Star helicopter banks above our heads. As it recedes into the valley below, we stand in silvery silence atop an untracked glacier, one of dozens that speckle the largest single tranche of heli-skiing terrain in the world. With Mike Wiegele as our guide and a private helicopter at our beck and radio call, it feels like there’s all the time in the world — and the world, hundreds of powder turns’ worth, is at our feet. After nearly fifty years of pioneering and — many would say — perfecting the art of heli-skiing, I ask Mike what he considers his most special accomplishment. Thoughtfully, his eyes scan the peaky panorama. “Finding this place.” Since 1970, Mike Wiegele has been creating deep-powder dreams amid a swath of the Cariboo and Monashee mountains the size of 283 Vails combined. During peak season, up to 12 helicopters lift and land on some 1,000 named routes, pinning

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY MIKE WIEGELE HELI SKI

Could this be the world’s most lavish private heli-ski lodge?

Albreda is a tiny postcode where champagne flows and helicopters fly.

from top to bottom

runs such as Steinbock, Most Magnificent, and Dixon Glacier onto the maps of the world’s heli-skiing elite. Last season, the operation’s tenure increased by 330,000 acres bringing it to 1.5 million acres, and the ever-expanding village of 22 luxurious chalets now accommodates more than 100 heli-skiers at a time. Big is undeniably beautiful here. Yet in recent years — quietly, discreetly — word has been spreading about an alternative, more 54

P H OTO S : A N D R E A S W I M M E R

1. The Lodge. 2. A long line through the powder. 3. Mike Wiegele in his office.

HELI

clockwise from left

1. Dinner is served. 2. The Great Room at the Lodge. 3. Your private helicopter awaits.

exclusive experience. A tiny postcode where champagne flows and helicopters fly. A place that’s perfect for privacy-seeking types keen on their own helicopter, their own chalet, their own program. If this sounds appealing, Albreda Lodge is your perfect scenario. Some 30 miles up the road from Blue River, Albreda Lodge may constitute the ultimate private heli-ski retreat. With all the bells and whistles — handcrafted massive timbers, dining, bar, threestory great room, and 19 bedrooms — Albreda invokes the spirit of the great chalets of vieux Davos or century-old St. Anton. “Gone are the days when people would bunk up together,” Mike says, opening the door onto a massive outdoor patio that is dug out and decorated each week for a stylish ice bar party. “So now we give them what they want.” Clearly, Mike takes his clients’ desires to heart. His guest list has long featured a tony set of doctors, dentists, and dealmakers: Past non-bunkers at Blue River have included ski royalty icons Jake Burton and Marcel Hirscher, as well as more conventional crowned heads such as Princess Caroline of Monaco and the Aga Khan. While, like Blue River, Albreda Lodge is accessible by car, it’s not uncommon for guests to arrive by helicopter from Vancouver or Kamloops Airport. Once alighting at Albreda — the helipad is poised just steps from the door — everything is located under one snow-covered roof. Tended by a dozen employees, needs are met by a lodge manager, a full complement of bar and waitstaff, discrete housekeepers, an inhouse massage therapist, and most importantly, a deeply talented private chef. Bespoke menus are designed to spec. What you want, when you want it — including the bounty of a thoughtfully curated wine cellar. From the cosseting coziness of the wood-lined dining room — a low, arched ceiling creates the sense of being on an elegant ship — to the crimson-cushioned long bar, the rich carpets, black slate, and 56

fir flooring produce an alpine patina that far exceeds the building’s actual 14 year history. Indeed, Albreda’s reclaimed timbers were painstakingly transported from a disused Alberta prairie grain elevator, giving new life to beams that now frame the great room, visibly smoothed and shaped by decades of kernels washing over their girth. (An interesting historical aside: Wiegele’s grandfather worked as an Alberta prairie farmhand from 1928-30 and would have almost certainly hauled wheat to an elevator such as this, if not this very one.) The upper floor, reached by a striking saw-tooth iron staircase (or by elevator, for the truly powder-addled knees in the house) is home to a long corridor of bedrooms. Each ensuite room is appointed with two queen beds and has windows with grand mountain vistas. A grand master suite features a large bedroom and sitting room with slate fireplace, as well as a small kitchen. Sepia photos showcasing a half-century of heli-history line the hallways, including a series of hand-painted ski prints by Warren Miller himself. For those with energy to burn after a day of heli-skiing, there’s a boutique, fitness room, sauna, steam room, hot tub, and a rather spectacular three-story, five-lane climbing wall that await. The ski shop has a wide variety of powder skis, as well as cross-country skis and snowshoes. The guides’ room is fully equipped with state of the art safety and weather equipment as well as a video link to the Blue River guides’ meeting room. Come sunset, the heli is put to bed and the lodge comes to life with the glow of crackling fires, the tinkle of drinks, and the sound of laughter of après heli-ski among friends. On this sacred land of the Simpcw First Nation, there’s more than a little magic to go round. As we dream about the next day, Mike says, “I’m just so happy we found this place.” So are we! W W W.W I E G E L E .C O M / P R O P E R T I E S / A L B R E DA- L O D G E

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technicity, and fashion without compromise.” For women, the look will be kind of modern retro; very shaped ski outfits with a soft focus on the shoulders. Blue and orange are in. She expects Bogner, Toni Sailer, and Fendi to have strong designs, but confesses to having serious crushes on both the Aztech Mountain and Cordova collections. Cordova especially excites her as it is a new brand from a young designer: “It’s so cool, the things she does are crazy; so chic.” Ready-to-wear displays are matched by color and themes: casual, evening, and sportswear. “We create real stories for the perfect après-ski look,” she says, ticking off a few of the boutique’s brands: Dsquared2, Maison Ullens, and Stefano Ricci. Toubiania says this winter’s prêt-à-porter fashions are especially colorful, and she really likes the Ermenegildo Zegna, Burberry, and Missoni collections. Skiers will luxuriate in the utmost comfort with perfectly tailored footwear available from the boutique. “Le Silla shoes are chic and comfortable, and Santoni shoes will appeal to the gentlemen,” says Toubiania. The boutique’s shoes and accessories section also features Giuseppe Zanotti, Tod’s, and Burberry. A perfume corner showcasing Parfums de Marly and Memo Paris, and a jewelry window displaying pieces by refined designers such as Tess Van Ghert allow customers to complete

P HOT OS C OURT ESY OF BERN ARD ORC EL

by HIL ARY NANGLE

SKI BOUTIQUE

COURCHEV EL CHIC

ong the playground of A-list celebs, politicians, and royalty, tony Courchevel, sited in France’s Les Trois Vallées, is synonymous with fivestar hotels and Michelin-starred chefs. Guests come from around the world to ski this posh paradise, and they expect their boutiques (and their outfits) to match the surrounding glamour. For 45 years, the Bernard Orcel boutique has catered to their needs. And their whims. French alpine racer and two-time Olympian Bernard Orcel opened his eponymous boutique in 1975, after retiring from competition. Courchevel’s first multibrand store quickly earned a platinum reputation for catering to those demanding the best in products and service. Although ownership changed in 2013, that prestigious reputation continues today. The boutique stocks the most exclusive brands in clothing, accessories, and ski equipment: The chalet-style boutique, located in Courchevel 1850, carries everything one needs — from technical layers to evening wear — to ensure you always look in vogue. Equally importantly, the team is on hand to offer bespoke services, individual recommendations, and personalized experiences designed to augment your ski vacay in every way. “We come from the very high-end luxury industry, and from that point our main goal is to develop and extend the standards of high-end services and experiences for our clients,” says Claire Toubiana, who’s been involved in all aspects of operation since the acquisition. “We travel the world to find the best quality products and seek new trends that will please our customers.” Whether that’s on the slopes, strolling through the village, or at a glamorous evening soirée. Ski wear is displayed by brand: “Each collection tells a story,” Toubiana says. This season’s watchwords are “comfort,

SKI BOUTIQUE their ensemble. “Our clients expect us to be the most fashionable mou nt a in store,” Toubiana says. Bernard Orcel achieves that in part by working to create exclusive collaborations with famous brands each season. It partnered with a French ski company to create its own ski line comprising an all-terrain ski, a racing ski, and an off-piste ski, each with a jazzy design. Exclusive capsule collections show the height of alpine designer fashion. The company’s latest offering is a Chiara Ferragni x Bernard Orcel snow boot, Bordeaux limited edition. Toubiana aims to create contrast and make customers aware of the store’s many strengths with in-store displays. “We like to show unexpected matches between technical ski items and luxury fashionable clothing,” she says. A new window concept for December will be “something totally out of the box, where strong and highly technical items will meet crazy luxury pieces — imagine a mannequin wearing an impressive fur coat with ski boots.” Bernard Orcel may attract customers with its luxury lines, but personal service is what keeps them coming back. The boutique offers clients a place to escape, relax, and unwind in a place of beauty and comfort. “Of course we offer drinks to all our customers,” Toubiana says. Old friends are recognized and welcomed back; new ones are hand-delivered personalized gifts to their hotels: Perhaps a special gift bag with a personalized pocket-sized bottle of the local herbal liqueur, génépy, along with a welcome card and an invitation to ask questions. “As clients feel comfortable with us, they often ask us to help them with restaurant booking or other concierge requests,” Toubiana says. You wish it, Bernard Orcel makes it happen. The Bernard Orcel Ski Truck, a mobile ski room, brings products and services to customers where they’re needed, whether that’s a chalet or hotel or a ski trail. The truck carries a full range of winter sports equipment as well as

integrated boot dryers. “If a client is already on the slopes and wants to test a new ski, we will bring it to him,” Toubiana says. The store also brings the C ORDOVA ON E P IEC E boutique to customers who prefer shopping at home or in their hotel suite. The collections (ready-to-wear or ski wear) are presented by a personal shopper from the team. Seamstresses adjust and perfect outfits. Bernard Orcel also manages ski rooms in one palace and three five-star Courchevel hotels: Les Airelles, Hôtel Barrière Les Neiges, Aman Le Melezin, and Le Strato. These, Toubiana says, are Bernard Orcel’s ambassadors. No two are alike. Each was created in collaboration with interior designers, architects, and managers to fit not only with the hotel, but also to meet the preferences of that hotel’s clientele. For example, guests at the opulent Les Airelles return for afternoon tea with hot drinks and sweet snacks while those at the hip and modern Le Melezin enjoy a Champagne bar. What the ski rooms share is Bernard Orcel’s commitment to offering guests a premium experience and allowing them to hit the slopes nattily attired and in a relaxed and positive mood. “It is always a pleasure to help them to make their stay unforgettable,” Toubiana says. One of the season’s highlights is the annual Bernard Orcel Ski Cup. The boutique organizes the race and arranges for special guest racers. Last year Olympic gold medalists, Bode Miller and Antoine Dénériaz participated. “We do it to make our clients happy. We share the moment with them, take care of them, and party with them,” Toubiana says. The génépy flows, the good times roll, and the boutique’s staff ensure that each client is not only sharply outfitted to ski, but also to shimmer and shine. Whether daytime glamour or evening glitz, Bernard Orcel deftly works the magic that makes them sparkle.

“We like to show unexpected matches between technical ski items and luxury fashionable clothing.”

AZT ECH MO UNTAIN

C U LT U R E

THE GOLDEN AGE OF SKI ART. b y D AV I D S H R I B M A N

ehnsucht. Difficult to translate yet a perfect decription of the emotion vintage poster art conjures. Ever alluring, the ski poster evokes a sentimental yearning that is perhaps best defined as nostalgia: There is no doubt that this art form is a delightful reminder of happy holidays and a longing for a historical place and time. There is, of course, artistry in skiing. In earlier times it took the form of the stem christie, the graceful, rhythmic ski turn developed by the skimeister Hannes Schneider in 1910. Four decades later it was the wedeln, the speedy, shortswing turn mastered by Willy Schaeffler. But it was a third German speaker, Franz Lenhart, who took skiing and adapted it to art—and in so doing was one of the pioneers of making an indoor art of an outdoor sport. Lenhart, born in the Austrian Tirol, was not the inventor of the ski poster but he surely was one of the earliest masters of the genre, as much of a virtuoso on blank canvases as Schneider and Schaeffler were on ungroomed snow. Poster art blurred the lines between adveristing and art. With vibrant colors, artistic style, and the ability to entice people to explore, these stylized advertisements invited adventure. Lenhart developed a series of winter sport travel 60

posters that promoted skiing in Italy in his own time and that are cherished around the ski world in ours. Indeed, the message spans time: the athleticism of the sport, the thrill of the descent, the brilliant, exhilarating experience of rushing through snow at high speed and at high altitudes. The ski poster, celebrating what the French called plein air painting even if it were produced in a studio, is the artistic salute of what Lenhart called, in a 1930 poster promoting skiing in the Dolomites, the “paradise of snow, ice, and sun.’’ We know, of course, that ice is the mortal enemy of our winter sport and that sun is a sometime thing on the slopes. But we know precisely what those words mean, and the incandescent poster featuring Cortina does precisely the same thing. Though his subject was principally Paris of the Belle Époque, not the pistes of downhill skiing, it was Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec (1864-1901) who transformed the poster into art. His evocative posters captured the nightlife culture of the café concerts and dance halls of Paris. The ski posters that followed a third of a century later —some by Lenhart, some by others such as Sascha Maurer, whose work often featured New England resorts — had

C U LT U R E

With vibrant colors, artistic style, and the ability to entice people to explore, these stylized advertisements invited adventure.

many of the production qualities of the Toulouse-Lautrec works even as they played the dual roles of advertisements and art. Today, originals and reproductions alike of tourist posters grace the walls of ski bars, ski chalets, and ski condos from Squaw Valley to Sugarloaf and from Tremblant to Telluride. My own cozy ski house, in the unlikely snowy enclave of Dryfork, West Virginia, has a first edition ski poster by Sascha Maurer, promoting the Jackson Ski School on Black Mountain operated by J. Arthur Doucette, given to me late one frosty evening in his New Hampshire hillside home by Doucette himself. Now reproductions of ski posters, whether promoting the ski wonders of Stowe in Vermont or the appeal of the ski trains of the old New Haven Railroad, are treasured by ski connoisseurs. Often ski resorts or ski companies dropped their names onto the sorts of images Maurer produced. In either incarnation, these are popular items on the Internet and at art stores, perhaps because they capture the power and speed of the sport and the zeitgeist of the period in which skiing evolved from a pastoral pastime to a mass-culture sport. ‘’A lot of these posters reflect the machine age and industrialization, because they are about speed and sharp angles,’’ says Andrew Spindler, who operates the Antiques & Design shop in Essex, Massachusetts. ‘’Stylistically, there is something of that in ski posters, especially if they have a painterly quality to them.’’ So much so that the New England Ski 62

Museum has made a brisk business of selling reproductions of old ski posters. “Sometime around the late 1950s, just about every poster switched from art work

to photography, so the older ones are more popular,’’ says Jeff Leich, the executive director of the museum. ‘’People today want the vintage art work that was done in the 1930s and the 1940s.’’ That is why the Lenhart posters have an enduring appeal, possessing what a curator called “dynamic skiers [and] elegant women radiating strong erotic tones,’’ adding that, as a result, the South Tirol that Lenhart portrayed soon emerged as ‘’a sophisticated leisure paradise.’’ One of the repeated themes: posters of women in single-seat chairlifts promoting the ski delights of the Madonna di Campiglio resort in the Dolomites of northeast Italy. The visual pun on the word ‘’madonna’’

in these posters is irresistible. Decades later, people covet the glamour, style, and excitement of the period. For years a cache of the Lenhart posters sat unknown and unappreciated in a storeroom of a regional tourist office before they were discovered and transferred to the museum that sits in the Trauttmansdorff Castle close to where Empress Elisabeth of Austria had a holiday home until she was assassinated in 1898. Now visitors can buy reproductions of Lenhart posters. Lenhart studied in Vienna and Florence, eventually becoming an art instructor and emerging as one of Italy’s premier Art Deco artists. For a quarter of a century he concentrated on the mountain themes that, in 1924, provided him with his breakthrough — a poster for the Italian national tourism agency that promoted a ‘’Visitate le Dolomiti’’ message. ‘’While skiing posters characteristically follow the same basic conventions (that is, they illustrate skiers zooming down slopes or flying up snow

What do

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Roberto Cristoforetti with prototype of gold medalist Alberto Tomba's boots

URLARI.COM 2017 TUSCAN WINERY OF THE YEAR

C U LT U R E

The Lenhart posters have a forward-motion difficult to create on a two-dimensional field and yet impossible to ignore on paper. banks), how the designer or illustrator renders the action is key to making a cliché soar or fall,’’ wrote Steven Heller, the chair of the design department at New York’s School of Visual Arts and perhaps the nation’s leading expert on graphic arts. The Lenhart posters have a forwardmotion difficult to create on a twodimensional field and yet impossible to ignore on paper. In a 1930 Dolomites poster speaking of “neige — soleil — divertissements’’, the snow and sun are irresistible, though the diversions are left to the imagination. Two decades later, for the Italian ski championship of 1951, Lenhart’s skier is portrayed at an impossible angle. How those Lenhart skiers barreled down the slopes! Overall, to borrow a phrase from another 1936 travel poster, the Lenhart posters capture “Tous les plaisirs d’hiver,’’ and transform all the aspects of winter into pleasing art. That rendering is what qualifies the Lenhart posters as more than simply commercial art. And yet the Lenhart posters also are more than art alone. They are historical documents, particularly his World Cup poster produced for the February 1941 ski competition in Cortina, the resort village that became Italian in 1919 but that retained its German language heritage because it had been part of the Habsburg monarchy until the end of World War I. In the bottom right of this poster sit the flags of the nations participating in the competition — the Nordic states, Switzerland, France, and the Axis powers of Japan, Italy, and Nazi Germany. The principal image in the pastiche is the flag of the Kingdom of Italy — at the time Italy 64

was a monarchy, though Benito Mussolini was head of the government — but the contemporary eye is drawn, as if by morbid magnetic force, to the menacing swastika of Nazi Germany. The Cortina ski competition was conducted in the very month when Mussolini declared martial law in the south of Italy, when Erwin Rommel took charge of the Afrika Korps, when Adolph Hitler romanced Francisco Franco to join the Axis war effort, and when the United States House of Representatives approved the Lend-Lease Act. Amidst all those ominous developments, Lenhart was celebrating an international ski competition. That was not as strange as it may appear to us, more than three-quarters of a century later. “The Italians wanted to show off their Fascist state and the modern design of the poster underlines that,’’ says Jonathan Steinberg, who teaches history at the University of Cambridge and the University of Pennsylvania. ‘’The war was still very favorable to the Axis, and the ski competition reinforced that.’’ In wartime or in peacetime, ski competitions were inviting subjects for artists, even for the amateurs. For example, posters produced for the Winter Carnival at Dartmouth College precede the Lenhart works by more than a decade and provide perhaps the most extensive collection of ski art devoted to a single theme—in this case, Dartmouth’s sometimes-boozy midFebruary celebration of winter sports that was the inspiration for a 1939 movie based on a short story by F. Scott Fitzgerald. The poster from my senior year at Dartmouth (1976) is based on a drawing by Sir John Tenniel, the English illustrator of

the works of Lewis Carroll, and bears the legend ‘’Through a Frosted Looking Glass.’’ It hangs, framed, beside the 2007 Winter Carnival poster acquired by my Dartmouth daughter that also has a Lewis Carroll theme (‘’Down the Rabbit Hole’’, with two figures on a chairlift) and the Bates College Winter Carnival poster (Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs theme) acquired by my younger daughter during her college’s winter celebration in Maine. They are more than decor. They are part of our family heritage. Our family is not unique: Ubiquitous, ski posters hang on the walls of resorts around the world. The continued appeal of this art form stems from nostalgia in many ways: both a reminder of past times and a longing for future adventures. These ski posters, says Gina Barreca, a professor of English at the University of Connecticut. ‘’refer to a common inheritance: a ritualized celebration of optimism during the dark days of winter.’’ For all of us who see optimism in even the darkest days of winter, that is what transforms skiing, and the posters that celebrate our sport, into true art. They may be paper thin, but for us as for so many others, they are possessed of great depth.

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Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s heliskiing.

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SNOW STORIES

JUNGLE LOVE BECOMING SIERR A LOST IN SNOW CHAMONIX Ã&#x20AC; LA MODE COURTING COURMAYEUR MASQUER ADE

LIZA Jacket AUTHIER Shirt AUTHIER Pants AUTHIER Sunglasses VUARNET P H OTO B Y A N TO N I O C O R D E R O .

JUNGLE

LOVE Photographer Antonio Cordero Stylist John Martinez Assistant Stylist Carol Gamarra Makeup Yurema Villa (AnaPrado_Mgmt) | Kirsten Selinger Hair Moi Freire to Mön Icon / Graftobian Shot on location in Marbella, Jardines de la Reina Marbella, Spain

VA L ERI YA

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VA L ERI YA JACKET SPORTALM PANTS SPORTALM SUNGLASSES CARRERA SHIRT ALP-N-ROCK

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BIBS LUIS TRENKER JACKET LUIS TRENKER BASE LAYER LUIS TRENKER BOOTS LUIS TRENKER HAT CHAOS

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PHOTO BY PHOTOGRAPHER NAME

S t o r y b y M E R E D I T H O G I LV I E -T H O M P S O N P h o t o g r a p h y b y R E N AT O D E L VA L L E Shot on location in Portillo, Chile

ierra Quitiquit needs no introduction. As a professional freeskier, she has competed globally, ripped some of the world’s toughest terrain, and garnered a cult following starring in iconic films such as Warren Miller’s Ticket to Ride and Nick Waggoner’s Valhalla. As a model, she is a face of Bogner, worked with global brands Nike and Lululemon ─ to name but a few ─ and graced billboards from Times Square to Tokyo. What is perhaps less known is that she is an ambassador for POW (Protect Our Winters), recently wrote and directed a shortform documentary on the future of skiing, and is in the process of launching a foundation focused on educating people about climate change, public health, and equality. Ask Sierra if she is an activist, though, and you will get more of a definition than an answer: Activism is about authenticity, owning your narrative, and empowering other people. “I’m a work in progress,” she tells me. “I’ve always gone after things that are over my head, and had to take ownership of all of the pieces that created my whole.” Born and raised in Park City, Utah, Sierra was clamped into skis before her second birthday, blessed with an ability and fearlessness that set her apart from her peers at an early age. Despite the raw talent and idyllic geography, however, hers is not a story of the skiing elite. “We didn’t have a lot of money growing up,” she says, describing how her family of six shared a single bedroom and loft space. “Skiing is expensive. We managed to get ski passes and used ski gear, and my parents made a lot of sacrifices.” Watching Chris Kitchen’s documentary How Did I Get Here ─ a beautifully shot and heartbreakingly poignant biographical film about Sierra, which she herself co-produced ─ I am immediately

struck that above all else Sierra is a natural storyteller. Capable of celebrating her successes with zero conceit, while plumbing the depths of her sorrows with zero self-pity, she communicates with an empathy and vulnerability that could not be scripted, particularly when recalling her brother’s sudden death, a cruel twist of fate unimaginable for a then 15-year-old girl who by all accounts had been inseparable from her older sibling. “It was really hard on all of us when JD died,” Sierra tells me. “We didn’t have the emotional development as a family to deal with it.” By her own admission, JD’s death sent her down a bad road in search of anything that would numb the pain, including “a ton of drugs”. Another twist of fate ─ this one kind ─ led to her acceptance to The American School in Switzerland, and with the blessing of her grief-stricken parents, Sierra fled Utah for the structure and support she needed to heal. She stayed through her junior year, before returning home to enroll in the High School University Program at the University of Utah. “I was turning 18, and my father said, ‘you’re an adult, have a nice life. As Sierra describes it, she looked at her tuition bill, looked at her bank account, and decided to buy a one-way ticket to South America. For Sierra, everything revolved around snow and skiing, and when the season ended she headed home and got a job at a ski shop that came with a season pass. Come summer, she chased the snow to Hood River, Oregon, where she skied the glacier and flipped burgers to pay the bills. It was around that time her mother talked her into flying to Houston to audition for America’s Next Top Model. Though Sierra progressed only as far as the audition episode, it proved far enough for her to be signed with an agency in Oregon. A girl without a college degree, motivated by the worry there would be few other

“I want to be a resource to connect the dots, and do something that’s bigger than me.” opportunities for her to make money, a determined Sierra soon landed a global campaign with American Eagle. “I felt like I’d won the lottery, but then realized to redeem the prize there was an immense amount of hustle. You have to put yourself through crazy bullshit situations, sexual harassment… it was painful, but the paychecks made it worth it for me.” At the same time, Sierra was also signed by Spyder, her first skiwear sponsor. And there began what she refers to as her challenge of duality. Though naturally lean, as a model there was constant pressure on her to lose weight. As a skier, she battled to maintain her weight, with enough muscle to support her joints. “I’d be working to get strong, and then I’d go to New York or Los Angeles and my agents would get their measuring tape out and wrap it around my ass and there’d be a conversation about how serious I was, and what was going on with me that made my butt get bigger,” she says. “I didn’t want to be modelling. I wanted to be skiing, but I couldn’t find sponsors to pay me enough to survive,” she says. Adding insult to injury, the ski industry itself would prove Sierra’s harshest critic – beyond not supporting women – particularly female athletes who damned her for being a model, levelled personal attacks on her character, and accused her of selling sex rather than sport. In short, the narrative that was manufactured about Sierra did not reflect the fact she needed the income from modelling to afford the visibility required to get noticed as a professional athlete. “As women, we are taught to appease,” Sierra says. “Whether we’re told that, or we’re just paying attention to the messaging around us. The messaging is so twisted. It began to make me aware of the power of image, and the influence of storytelling in the digital world. I knew I could reach a youth audience through skiing, and began to think, what if I could mix in messages about body image or climate change, and 85

“Even if we stop emitting carbon right now, it’s too late to save the sport of skiing as we know it.”

empower young people to tell their own stories?” If there is one demographic at the coal face of climate change, it would, without a doubt, be skiers. Erratic weather patterns and shorter seasons have contributed to an overall reduction in snowfall globally, threatening an entire industry and the future of the sport itself. It is an issue that has concerned Sierra since she was a teenager, and as an ambassador for POW, she is doing her part to help educate both policymakers and the public with the latest science about what is happening to the environment. Founded in 2007 by professional snowboarder Jeremy Jones, the organisation now boasts a network of more than 130,000 supporters around the world, operating more like a social movement than a traditional NGO. 86

“Climate change is so personal for me, affecting my livelihood and passion,” she says. “Looking ahead 50 years, the projected snowfall for where I live in Park City is zero. Even if we stop emitting carbon right now, it’s too late to save the sport of skiing as we know it.” Enter Melted. Shot on location in the Moroccan desert, Melted ─ written, directed, and produced by Sierra ─ is a fictitious portrayal about what skiing could look like in the future, with a clever mass appeal message about climate change. Her plan is to screen it at film festivals and grassroots events across the country, alongside a personal presentation inspired by Drawdown, Paul Hawken’s bestselling book on global warming. “We’re eager to understand the world and what’s happening, but there aren’t a lot of resources out there. With the amount of media we’re consuming, and the way the messaging is affecting young people, I feel the need to take back the narrative.” Sierra explains. I am instantly reminded of the dystopian future in the novel Fahrenheit 451. Though instead of burning the books that are repositories of knowledge and ideas, we have replaced them with pictures that tell a thousand words. For Sierra, taking ownership of the pieces that created her whole is clearly serious business, infusing her with a laser focus to transform her own skewed image

into a platform poised for engagement and empowerment, and to advocate for the things that are important to her. “I’m in a position to leverage the brands I work with, not just to smile and hold a water bottle, but to message about plastic and what it’s doing to us and this planet. I want to be a resource to connect the dots, and do something that’s bigger than me.” Having recently set up a 501(c)(3), Sierra is launching her own foundation ─ the Altruistic Action Fund ─ with a mission to create educational media content, including about climate change. She is quick to add the fund is not just for her projects, but will support young creatives who want to tell their stories; it is a resource for those who would otherwise struggle to find a platform and money. “It’s just become less about me and what I can get for myself, and more about using my privilege for something bigger,” she says. “I’m over myself. My brain has shifted to ‘what do I have to offer?’” In short, tons. An explosive fusion of athlete, global brand, activist, and storyteller, Sierra is an influencer purpose-built for the digital age. Cool enough to attract a following, and thoughtful enough to keep it real. “I mean, when our basic human needs of love, respect, and clean air aren’t being met, then what does all the other shit mean anyway?”

Clothing by Bogner | Eyewear by Vuarnet | Jewelry CBC_jewelry

LOSTIN

SNOW Welcome to Fernie Alpine Resort. A small town with big snow. S t o r y b y A N D R E W F I N D L AY Photography by STEVE OGLE

previous page Tim Konrad loving 20+ inches of powder.

clockwise from left to right 1. Andrew Findlay arrives in Fernie. 2. Polar Peak is open. 3. Mother Nature takes over the snowmaking.

circulating weather patterns. hey call it the “Fernie Factor”. A forecasted 5 inch Vancouver-born Siggers first rolled into Fernie in 1976 with a snowfall miraculously quadruples overnight, and before freshly-minted ski instructors’ certificate in the glove box of his beatyou’ve digested your omelet and hash browns you’re up car. Forty-four years later he clearly still has the stoke. “I did my gathered with other early birds beneath a bluebird certification at Sunshine Village Ski Resort and one of the examiners sky, listening to a fusillade of detonating bombs being dropped by offered me a job at Fernie. He told me they had two T-bars. I thought, avalanche techs onto the fat cornice that curls like a frozen wave high above Lizard Bowl. So it is today, as I wait with Robin Siggers, Fernie Alpine Resort’s operations manager, for a green light from the red coats to drop into Lizard, one of five bowls cradled by the limestone peaks of the Lizard Range at this legendary resort tucked deep into the southeast corner of British Columbia, less than 60 miles as the crow flies from the Montana border. Most mountain towns worship Ullr. In Fernie they pay homage to their own version of the snow god; the Griz. The legend stems from a sighting of a musket-carrying, grizzly-coat wearing mountain man dwelling in the Lizard Range. He fires his musket into the clouds to unleash powder and is often spotted skiing. Locals love this special powder snow. Today, with Siggers as my guide, we grabbed an early lift up Elk Chair, carved some tidily swept carpet down to the Great Bear Express, and now are chomping at a Lizard Bowl untracked, save for those of a few patrollers that are like signatures on a vast and crumpled parchment. With a nod from his staff, I follow Siggers and launch the traverse cat track, landing in the snorkel-deep fresh, each turn a mouthful of oxygenated fluff. Here snow often falls in coastal ‘I’m not going there - I’m from Whistler,’ Siggers says with a chuckle. Curiosity got the best of him. Car loaded with ski gear, he made the quantities, but with interior dryness, thanks to the Lizard Range, an anomalous string of peaks that runs perpendicular to the axis of long drive to Fernie, a coal mining town founded at the turn of the the Canadian Rockies, and seems to generate its own generously re- 19th century on the banks of the Elk River. On its doorstep was an 90

Most mountain towns worship Ullr. In Fernie they pay homage to their own version of the snow god; the Griz. obscure little ski hill called Fernie Snow Valley run by an independent-minded, hardworking German forester named Heiko Socher. The snow never seemed to stop falling and Siggers never left: It’s a pilgrimage that’s been repeated by many a skier since. “I sold my squatters shack in Whistler and went to Fernie. At the time there might have been a dozen of us getting after the powder and traversing into the bowls,” Siggers says, wistfully recalling those early days and pointing to one of the tree-lined couloirs that threads down from a ridge between Lizard and Currie bowls. “We used to boot pack up and ski the Cougar Glades, then have to bash our way through alders to get back to the ski area.” That was long before the ski area expanded its boundaries to incorporate Siberia, Currie, and Timber bowls. The Gilmar Trail is a tribute to one of Siggers’ old cohorts, Pat Gilmar, who mercifully hacked out a path in the alders to make the traverse back to the resort easier. Late in the morning, Siggers ruefully leaves me in the hands of his son Dylan. We meet at Lost Boys Café at the top of Timber Chair. Dylan is a cliff-hucking, park jibbing 24-year-old who rides for LINE skis and is a talented videographer. I quickly get a taste of the younger Siggers’ style; often backwards and ten feet off the deck, as we rip down Puff to the base of the White Pass Quad, on the hunt for steeps and freshies. We spend the remainder of the day mining the steep lines, salt and peppered with cliff bands and rocks, that spill off the ridge between Currie and Timber bowls. After the lifts stop turning, satiated from an all-you-can-eat day of powder skiing, Dylan and I reunite with Siggers the elder at the Griz Bar ─ an après skiing, slopeside watering hole. We sidle 91

up to a thick wooden table the length of two shuffleboards. Its surface has been polished by a curious, late night Fernie tradition, the thought of which causes me to reflexively remove my elbows from the table. The walls of the bar are papered with photos of skiers with moustaches in garishly colored stretchy pants, and others in various states of undress. When John Cusack and Director Steve Pink scouted ski resort locations to shoot scenes for Hot Tub Time Machine, their search ended at Fernie, which seems to have one ski boot perpetually lodged in the 1980s. If Pink needed to fill scenes with extras, locals dove into their retro tickle trunks and arrived on set en masse. Fernie may have the ‘80s in its DNA, but it is the spirit

of Heiko Socher that looms large over Fernie’s ski culture. Socher, who passed away in 2016, was emblematic of a pre-corporate time in the ski industry when ski hills bore the stamp of a maverick owner’s individuality. Socher would wield a chainsaw to cut runs, wrench broken down snowcats, and often walk around the resort base picking up not only trash but also sticks that appeared out of place. Chalk it up it to German fastidiousness. But at the same time Socher had a slice of

cowboy spirit. “Heiko definitely wasn’t afraid to cut steep runs,” Siggers tells me, as the bar fills and the volume of chatter increases. Only after an inbounds avalanche knocked over a lift tower at the bottom of Lizard Bowl was he compelled by government regulators to establish an official avalanche control program, which

Siggers ended up joining. “Those were the days when the ski industry was really fun,” he says. It’s hard not to share some of Siggers’ nostalgia. In 1998 Socher sold the resort to Charlie Locke, a pioneering Albertan mountaineer-turned-ski resort entrepreneur and a maverick in his own right. At the time Locke was in expansion mode, growing an empire known as Resorts of the Canadian Rockies (RCR). Locke realized Socher’s dream of building more lifts and greatly expanded the ski area south to include Siberia Bowl. However it wasn’t long before creditors came knocking, RCR went into receivership, and contractors were left hanging and unpaid.

The portfolio was scooped up by N. Murray Edwards, reclusive Forbes 500 Alberta financier, major oil sands investor, and co-owner of the Calgary Flames. Big business aside, thankfully, at its heart, Fernie remains a core skier’s resort. A large part of Fernie’s appeal is the town at its base. Mountain mining towns tend to foster cool ski communities. Fernie is no exception; founded on coal mining, it remains as much a resource town as it is a ski community. That afternoon I stroll 2nd Avenue, before hanging a left into The Valley Social to meet owner Dan Whillans. This is coffee nerd central, with new blends served each week. Whillans says he had fallen “in love with coffee culture” in Toronto before moving out to Fernie in 2014 with no

plan other than to ski as much as possible. In 2016, Whillans, opened The Valley Social and trusts in the conviction that great coffee in a welcoming environment breeds great community. These days there’s a buzz in Fernie’s boutique beverage scene, whether of the caffeine or alcohol variety. Back in 2003, long before hipsters with man buns and plaid shirts started twisting the taps at craft breweries across North America, Fernie Brewing Co. was launched out of the Pask family’s garage. Its beers, like Project 9 Pils (named after a popular local mountain biking trail) and

First Trax Brown Ale, reflect the brewer’s roots in Fernie’s outdoor adventure culture. And not one but two craft distilleries are in line to open for the 2018/19 ski season. “We’ve been tweaking our recipes for the past six

months,” says Trevor Semchuk, co-owner of Lost Boys Distilling Company located just a few blocks from downtown. Semchuk says Lost Boys will produce handcrafted Canadian whiskey, and as they age the first batch, they’ll also distill artisanal gin. I’ve penciled some pampering into my itinerary, so I show up early for my appointment at Spa 901 ─ my first ever facial. The Miner’s Special is more than a nostalgic nod to a forgotten time: It’s actually geared toward miners who work the underground coal shafts around Sparwood, and are in need of a good scrub to clean the pores of coal dust.

Previous page Dylan Siggers in powder heaven. clockwise from top left 1. Nevados is the go-to taco place in town. 2. Downtown Fernie. 3. Nevados owner Storm Largue ready to pour. 4. Trapper Normand Gagné ready for Griz Fest. 5. Robin and son Dylan Siggers at the Griz Bar.

Though I haven’t been doing time underground, I prepare for some pampering, with, I admit, an unsettling sense of impending emasculation. “As soon as we changed the name to Miner’s Special, we started getting a lot of men for facials,” my esthetician, Jessica Riley, tells me when I ask how often males opt for a facial. Sometimes it really is all just in the name. After the facial, I head into Griz Fest ground zero. After the requisite axe throwing competition, revelers grasping cans of Fernie beer in mittened hands hoot and holler as fireworks fill the sky, then turn their attention to the outdoor stage, where local three-piece power trio Small Town Dirtbags jams. That’s my cue to head to Nevados to meet friends for dinner. Housed in a wide-windowed, one-story, brick-walled corner building, this popular restaurant has brought a spicy pan-Latin American menu to the wintry streets of Fernie. Renowned for its selection of more than 30 artisanal tequilas and mezcals, I take the bartender’s advice and order a mezcal that’s as smoky as a peat soaked highland whisky. I decide to pair the spirit with an appy of patacones. The restaurant slowly fills. I look 94

outside the window. Snowflakes flutter and sparkle in the street lights; just another overnight refresh. The next morning, I’m lined up once again with the Siggers and 30 others waiting for the patrollers to drop the rope on the cat track traverse that leads to Snake Ridge on the resort’s northern boundary. The rope drops, signaling a Le-Mans-style start, and we aim for the far end of the ridge. Two minutes later, I’m staring down a planar, 1200 foot vertical, 35 degree slope. I do some quick mental math ─ a half dozen tracks at the most slice an otherwise blank canvas. If it wasn’t for Fernie’s competent pro patrollers, who manage more than 120 avalanche paths that loom above or hang within the resort’s boundaries, I’d be intimidated dropping into such a steep slope blanketed with 30 inches of fresh. I point the boards downhill, gather some necessary momentum, then smear a turn, sinking up to my thighs in March bounty. The “Fernie Factor” has been my good fortune all week. Thanks Griz. 95

CHAMONIX à la mode by LESLIE WOIT

P H OTO C O U R T E S Y O F T E R M I N A L N E I G E R E F U G E D U M O N T E N V E R S

The French have a reputation for so many things. Eating well. Making brilliant wine. Even soi-disant excellence in the dark arts of the bedroom. And when it comes to skiing, their contributions are equally legendary. From building the first planned ski resorts to outfitting us in smooth, sexy stretch pants to sashay around them, France is mad about le ski. And to discover the spiritual hub of it all, there’s one place to go — Chamonix.

hamonix is the anointed queen of the Alps, glitteringly crowned by Western Europe’s tallest mountain. To ski here is to follow in the tracks of alpine history ─ from the dawn of alpine tourism in wool skirts to extreme skiing in one-piece neon. You need only look up, way up, to understand. Mont Blanc was first summited in 1786. Et voilà, legions of eccentrics began aiming for its 15,781 foot summit armed with porters, caged chickens, and crates of Bordeaux. Gradually skiing gained traction and in 1924, Chamonix played host to the first Winter Olympics of the modern era. It is at L’École Nationale de Ski et d’Alpinisme (ENSA), right in the middle of town, where every French moniteur de ski comes to earn their instructor diploma. And nearly 200 years after the birth of alpinism, local superman Patrick Vallençant started the craze for near-vertical ski descents of the region’s fearsome faces: the Italian Couloir, Y Couloir, Whymper Couloir ─ 50-plus degree walls previously considered unskiable. To this day, Chamonix jumps and the world follows. No need to panic though. While continuing to lure its share of the shovel-and-backpack brigade, Cham also beguiles us mortals. One of the premier attractions, ça vaut le détour, is Europe’s classic ski descent, the Vallée Blanche. One of the Alps’ long, illustrious off-piste routes, this all-day alpine expedition dishes up a parade of peaky panoramas in the Mont Blanc massif ─ the Dent du Géant, the Grand Capuchin, and Les Drus ─ through furling waves of glacial crevasses and icy seas of aquamarine seracs. The roughly 13 mile ungroomed route, while not without challenge, can be skied by most competent skiers with the assistance of a guide. And now, thanks to a lovingly chic restoration of the Grand Hôtel du Montenvers, at the glacier’s edge is the most romantic refuge in France. When Emperor Napoleon III first visited the icy magnificence that is the Mer de Glace, officials declared it an official site of beauty and promptly constructed a road linking Geneva to Chamonix. Soon after, in 1880, the high-alpine Grand Hôtel du Montenvers opened its doors to the nouvelle vague of mountain lovers ─ the likes of famed writers Lord Byron, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Victor Hugo, George Sand, and even the infamous Frankenstein took refuge here in “the glorious presence-chamber of imperial

previous page View of la Mer de Glace from the terrasse of Refuge du Montenvers.

clockwise from left to right 1. Chamonix Mont Blanc railway station. 2. Les Vieilles Luges on-mountain restaurant. 3. Edward Whymper statue pointing to the Mont Blanc summit.

nature”. Alas, even during our current era of unpredictable winters, the presence-chamber occasionally overfloweth. Last January, a period of winds over 125 miles per hour combined with record snowfalls, made access to the Vallée Blanche impossible. Ski patrol couldn’t set the fixed rope protecting its gateway and the 420 metal stairs leading from the glacier up to the hotel were buried in Dr. Zhivago-like drifts ─ so instead we ascended to the hotel by cog rail. The tiny red train snaked through dense forests and towering snow banks before eventually stopping in front of a solid granite façade dotted with small red-shuttered windows. Looming above, the craggy curtains of Chamonix’s granite theatre were doused in a stirring magenta sunset. Frankenstein would have been impressed. Unusual destinations and eclectic style: the Sibuet Group of Megève have made a huge success of classing up this century-anda-half-old refuge, now renamed Terminal Neige. With exemplary bon chic, bon genre touches, its 20 rooms, suites, and dormitories are elevated with crimson-carpeted staircases, vintage industrial lighting and retro fabrics, all complementing the weathered patina of its original dark wood and granite bones. A crackling fire warms the dining room and bar where, together with newly-made friends from across Europe, we devour shared plateaux of charcuterie with local wine, followed by choice of diots de Savoie et polenta, tartiflette, or fondue of tangy Beaufort, Gruyère, and Abondance. Sleep is deep beneath a starry black sky. No fewer than 11 ski areas dot the length of the Chamonix Valley. On the sunny side, Brévent-Flégère is handy to town; for panorama, it’s northward to nearly-Switzerland Balme Vallorcine; and at the opposite end of the long valley, tree-blessed Les Houches is the go-to destination on poor viz days. At the foot of Mont Blanc snow can fall hard and fast, making the low timbered beams of Les Vieilles Luges the lunch spot of choice. A working alpage since 1479, Claude and his Australian wife, Julie, have been serving Haute-Savoie specialties from their family’s converted barn for

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1. A Whitetooth craft brew. 2. Iconic Canada at sunset: Petro Canada, Tim Hortons, and the Rockies.

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clockwise from left

Chamonix jumps and the world follows. Tall Scandies, goggle-tanned Americans, pack-hauling Brits, Aussies and yes, the French â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the boys are all here.

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In the shadow of Mont Blanc, Albert 1er is the ultimate refuge.

Busy day on the Arête des Cosmiques at the start of the Vallée Blanche. left to right 1.Colorful macaron display at the pâtisserie. 2.Nighttime in Chamonix town center. 3. Decadent dessert. 4. Pierre Carrier and Pierre Maillet — Michelin-starred cooking at the Albert 1er.

only a slightly shorter length of time. Their signature Savoyard dish, le farçon poêle, is an ancient Sunday-after-church farmers’ staple, a hearty treat of grated potatoes, prunes, raisins, and home-smoked bacon steamed overnight in a bain-marie, then sliced and pan fried. Ideal for hard-skiing diners (or hard-dining skiers) any day of the week. For true appetite building, we head to Cham’s must-ski ─ Grands Montets above Argentière, the freeriding haunt of any self-respecting saisonnière. The 60-person gondola rises over two stages to a pinnacle of more than 10,000 feet ─ Chamonix’s most iconic lift ticket. And it actually is a ticket: to avoid the normal wait for the gondola’s second stage, riders purchase a timed reservation and must be present for boarding at the time printed on the card. Don’t be fooled by the underwhelming 102

marked trail stat of 18 miles, no one comes here for the grooming. GM is all about the powder. Tall Scandies, goggle-tanned Americans, pack-hauling Brits, Aussies and yes, the French ─ the boys are all here. And on a powder day, it is mostly boys ─ early and burly, standing in queues that are shuffling show-off zones for GORE-TEX and duct tape, fat skis and fatter skis. An immense freeride zone, much of it glacier, spreads wide and long ─ there’s a thighburning 6,500 foot vertical on the full descent down to the valley. At the end of the day, especially in springtime, Americanexpat skilebrity Gary Bigham and his band The Crevasse Holes can be heard playing at the bottom. If you miss the band, you can get the flavor of what a half century of Cham life is like by catching Gary’s online snow report: The measurements are achieved by

tossing his cat off his chalet balcony into a snowbank. Well skied, well earned. Before we leave this Savoyard siren, a serious last supper is in order. In Chamonix there’s a profusion of very fine restaurants that make the gold standard ─ Le Bistrot, L’Atmosphère, and Le Panier des 4 Saisons among them – but one earns universal thumbs up. In a town where alpinism is a way of life, dining at Albert 1er is religion. One century, two Michelin stars, and four generations of hospitality form an elegant crucible here: Perrine, greatgrand-daughter of the founder, is at front of house; her husband, Chef Pierre Maillet, is at the helm. In the calm of the linen-draped dining room, hushed conversation is muffled by fine cashmere sweaters and subtle cork pops. Delicate plates and glittering cutlery arrive and

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depart with flourishes worthy of a Moulin Rouge performance. A surprise from the kitchen, oysters with truffles, is delivered by a waitress in a sober, ink-black suit, a lick of scarlet lingerie peeking out…. This is beautiful, sophisticated dining: poulet de Bresse with truffle tucked under skin, foie gras with beetroot, balsamic, and green apple, then an unforgettable, irreproducible Chartreuse soufflé. In the shadow of Mont Blanc, Albert 1er is the ultimate refuge. Skiing, eating, and post-prandial comforts are taken seriously in this part of the world. The cozy Relais et Chateâux sanctity of Hameau Albert 1er is pure luxe: old pine beams contrast with Le Corbusier furnishings and antique decorations. At the opposite side of town, and offering a totally different feel, is the recently resurrected five-star

grandeur of Hôtel Mont-Blanc. Built in 1849, extended in 1905, and reopened in 2013 following a period of stewardship by the great Taittinger Champagne house, this imposing inn sparkles with Belle Époque panache. Proud white façade, blue shutters, black and white marble floors, and everywhere the clever punctuation of bright colors ─ the unmistakable touch of interior designer Sybille de Margerie. And each morning, the pleasure of waking facing Mont Blanc. The hotel’s glossy BMW 7 Series stands at the ready to ferry guests hither and yon, but Chamonix’s cobbled pedestrian streets are right at the doorstep. Lovely things line shelves at an array of shops that include Chanel, Ogier, Moncler, and the exquisite local fine wool producer Arpin. A raft of sporting goods stores await (though really Snell Sports has it all); and pâtisseries,

fromageries, and chocolatiers provide delectable delights as only the French can. Pause for a glass of wine or a café au lait at an Art Nouveau café overhanging the babbling River Arve. Browse antique prints and books and visit the bijou Alpine Museum, located inside a 1910 palace. As for nightlife, decades of Swedish ski bums can’t be wrong about sweaty hangouts like Chambre Neuf, off the lobby of the Scandochic Langley Hotel Gustavia. For more sophisticated evenings, take in the jazz at Maison des Artistes, housed in a 1926 Art Nouveau villa. There is a whiff of microParis about town, with an architectural history, an alpine history – a place in history – that’s unlike any other ski town on earth.

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Courting

COUR M AY EUR Courmayeur is everything you demand in a ski resort…and nothing you expect. Story by Leslie Anthony P h o t o g r a p h y b y M a t t i a s Fr e d r i k s s o n

from top to bottom

1. Chad Sayers playing in Terminator 2. Sayers dropping into Truth.

hen the strangers arrived, the town rolled out the red carpet. To begin, all were invited to march in a parade. It wound along cobblestoned Via Roma, led by concertinas, cymbals, and drums that echoed from stucco and brick facades as they had for eight centuries. Crowding balconies, villagers waved to the newcomers, whose flags represented every country of the alpine world. At the ancient church the column dispersed onto the plaza, with its cross-valley view to the wrinkled feet of Monte Bianco, a kingly massif whose alabaster cape was draped on a corner of the sky. From a small stage, dignitaries welcomed the crowd to cheers and applause. Camaraderie flowed like warm syrup. Excitement stirred, and when the luminaries filed off, it manifested as frenzied bacchanalia. For the townsfolk had also laid out a feast—long tables traversing the plaza set with mounds of regional meats and cheeses, fruits and vegetables, olives and breads. There was also wine and beer and grappa. Many of the visitors had never seen such a volume of quality food—and all for free. With 104

the mien of starving wolves, they fell upon what seemed their last sustenance. It wasn’t, of course. And most of the food consumed during the 1992 World Telemark Skiing Championships held in Courmayeur, Italy, would be drawn from a similar citizen horn-of-plenty. For the town doesn’t take its largesse lightly—whether feeding dirtbags or royalty. Royalty were indeed common callers in ages past, stretching from the jet-setting 1960s back to the Romans, whose fortifications, aqueducts, roads, and grapevines still constellate Valle d’Aosta. These days, Courmayeur, at the valley’s terminus, hosts a different sort of royalty: on weekends, Via Roma becomes a see-and-be-seen catwalk for Milano and Torino celebrities and fashionistas, many of them non-skiers. The upside of this phenomenon is that demand for top dining, fabulous coffee, and extraordinary wine has elevated Courmayeur’s local delicacies—long produced with artisanal methods in a challenging environment—to those of a gourmet destination, willingly shared with villagers, humble mountain guides,

left Monte Bianco (15,780 feet).

and wide-eyed skiers. As one of the former, there to compete in 1992, I was duly impressed, a feeling only inflated on each subsequent visit. In Courmayeur, I learned, visitors were valued, and never an inconvenience; in place of potential indifference, one found warm embrace. It wasn’t just servers who welcomed you to a table here, but the restaurant’s owners as well. This rarified experience extended to the skiing. Though officially the smallest of Italy’s 20 regions, Valle d’Aosta can boast within its bounds the Matterhorn, Monte Bianco, Monte Rosa, and Gran Paradiso, each over 14,000 feet. Few of the world’s ski regions can match the variety, charm, cuisine, and spectacular scenery found here—let alone the almost 550 miles of pistes spread among 28 villages, of which Courmayeur was but one. And yet Courmayeur was singular in its own offerings. What other mountain in the Alps advertises 22 miles of pistes plus 40 miles of off-piste runs, actually inviting you to explore some of the world’s most outrageous skiing? It didn’t much matter which you were on: the two lift-served sectors—south-facing Plan Chécrouit and the

right Johan Jonsson skiing above the town.

north-facing forests of Val Veny—both offered breathtaking views of Monte Bianco, whose blue-toothed glaciers felt within reach of your fingertips. And there was more to consider—like the obstreperous neighbors. Few things differentiate France and Italy as starkly as comparing the working-man’s extreme-ski destination of Chamonix, in the Haute-Savoie, to ritzy, food-focused Courmayeur. Separated by only a 7.5-mile tunnel passing beneath the shared bulk of Europe’s highest mountain, these towns embody not only two cultural solitudes, but a geographic divide as well—stormy Mont Blanc to the north, sunny Monte Bianco to the south. While Chamonix floods annually with mountaineers and powder-hungry expert skiers from around the world, there is never a fight for untracked snow above historic and laid-back Courmayeur. And yet like the Aguille du Midi in Chamonix, Courmayeur’s Punta Helbronner is a similarly classic steep-ski venue. Replacing a series of creaky old cable cars that took 40 minutes to go up, the two rotating trams of the recently opened Skyway Monte Bianco—a de facto engineering eighth wonder of the world—now deliver you to 105

A sweet, expressive, mighty, capricious, savage, fascinating natural environment which seems to say: stay here!

the 11,358 foot summit in just 15 minutes, with access to the Toula Glacier, Couloir Marbrées, and other off-piste gems. While confused expressions like “posh soul” are invoked to describe it today, Courmayeur has always been a place of colliding sensibilities. Famed mountaineer Auguste Argentier thought as much when he tried to sum it in 1864: “A sweet, expressive, mighty, capricious, savage, fascinating natural environment which seems to say: stay here!” Which is to say that while Chamonix will continue to get all the alpine press, the complex obverse of the Mont Blanc coin is well worth a look. Giacomo Calosi was smiling. He was always smiling. And he was always smiling because his clients were always smiling. Of course, he—and possibly the garlic flatbread he’d deposited with a welcoming flourish while they were doffing wet gear and before menus or a server had appeared—were the reason. This closed a tidy little loop, one of many such human circles loudly crowding tables in the steamy, kitsch-addled establishment. Amidst curtains of clothing hung from crisscrossing lines, skiers stood to make toasts, sing, and kiss coiled fingertips in approval of the latest arrivals to their table: hot focaccia; woodoven fired pizza with fresh tomatoes, basil, and prosciutto; homemade pastas; blueberry cake; and fruit flambé. Poking a naïve head in from outside, it might resemble a New Year’s celebration. But it was lunchtime at the charismatic Calosi’s infamous Maison Vieille. Though it didn’t feel quite right for my companions and me to settle in here one February day last winter after just two insipid runs in a whiteout storm, it remained

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clockwise from left

1. Emporio Armani sponsored tram. 2. 30 year + Mountain guide Oscar Taiola. 3. Canadian pro skier Chad Sayers. 4. Aosta Valley, Courmayeur.

axiomatic that when in Rome you do what the Romans do. And what everyone was doing here was drying off in a place where the food—and fun—was guaranteed. Few ski resorts boast more on-mountain restaurants than lifts, but Courmayeur does. And Maison Vieille is one of the best. It’s hard to imagine how the tiny kitchen of the ancient, stone-walled hut keeps up, but it does so with consummate brio. In Maison Vieille, skiers celebrate their discoveries on-piste and off, with Calosi usually in the

thick of it—ordering, delivering, bussing, and flinging wine and liquor at everyone. As things quiet down after lunch he has a chance to sit with some of his clients and the real fun—or trouble —begins. Out come the stories, out comes dessert, and out comes his homemade limoncella. Whatever ski plans you may have for the afternoon, a new challenge has been thrown down, and there is no way to refuse. Skiing the next day is excellent, the snow

cold and fast, especially up higher. Here, the wind has sifted snow into steep, pillowy lines in the larch and pine forest above Val Veny, creating de facto powder stashes that we cycle repeatedly. Of course, there’s the usual pedestrian piste skiing here (Italians, even more so than other Euros, avoid anything without a green circle on it), but also some of the gnarliest. The surrounding peaks are a big reason why Courmayeur is on the itinerary of adventure-ski cognoscenti that frequent such high-mountain cradles. In addition to enjoying some of the best tree-skiing in the Alps, I’ve joined guides taking groups up Punta Helbronner for a run down the Toula Glacier. From there we returned aloft to have lunch, and then descended the Vallée Blanche on the French side, circling back to Italy through the Mont Blanc tunnel by dinnertime. We haven’t done anything quite so demanding today, but at least this time it feels we’ve earned our lunch. With the sun out, we’re happy to find an outdoor table at the mountain’s latest hot spot, La Chaumière. Congenial host Alessandra Demoz arrives fast enough to literally pull our seats out for us. 107

“Our menu is different at night — and the view down to the lights of town is very special.”

clockwise from left to right

1. Anna Costa owner of Ristorante Chiecco. 2. Caffè Della Posta serves the best cappuccino of the Alps. 3. The kitchen at Ristorante Mont Frety.

Originally from the Monterosa/ Champoluc area of Valle d’Aosta, Demoz was a Milano banker for years. But then she had an epiphany: banking was killing her. Nine years ago, she started La Chaumière as a ski-in bistro; more recently, she renovated the lower building into an upscale eatery that operates for both lunch and dinner. “Our menu is different at night,” she says, “and the view down to the lights of town is very special.” Many of Courmayeur’s on-mountain restaurants open for dinner, and the well-worn lifts from the village run until midnight. For Alessandra—who also found time in her new life to become a certified 108

sommelier—it can mean working from 7 a.m. to closing. It’s a longer but more pleasurable day than her banking past, and, like Calosi, she’s always upbeat and smiling. The meal I order here is the classic dish I was introduced to only a few feet away back in 1992—polenta with fontina cheese and beef sausage in tomato sauce. It’s both nostalgic and delicious. Later, we retire inside to chat over an espresso, which Demoz renders perfectly, claiming yet another recently acquired skill. She caps our meeting the way many proprietors in the Alps seem to—by reaching beneath the counter for a bottle of homemade genipi. With a bottomsup grin, Demoz claims the digestif comprised

of high-alpine herbs “is good for everything!” Perhaps it’s the sugar in the genipi that keeps me both alert enough to make it to the bottom and girds me for an afternoon walk. I deposit my gear at Hotel Cresta et Duc, a four-star contemporary alpine hotel, and head out. The hotel is close to the central roundabout, bus depot, and tram stations, with a typically cheery and welcoming staff. An echo of that long-ago trip to Courmayeur, the small bar/lounge is cozy, a great place to kick back after a day on the slopes, especially if, like me, you eschew a crowded après. But an après scene there is, far from the slopes in the town’s numerous wine bars and cafés,

many of them sited along Via Roma, and on my last day here I feel a duty to commune. To walk off lunch, I start in the lower town, working my way past the places I’ve dined the past few days: the excellent Ristorante Mont Frety; La Clochette, with its woodcut doors depicting elaborate scenes of grape harvests and wine production, where a carafe of “house” red is superior to anything of that designation in North America; and La Sapinière, a brasserie in the boutique Gran Baita hotel, where we ate homemade goat’s milk ice cream in a small, wood-clad room. Turning uphill, a walkway through a small park commemorates everyone who has guided in these mountains going back to the Guides Bureau’s founding in 1850, their names embossed in alphabetical order on the path’s granite stones. Some of the streets in the old town are so narrow you can barely see past the balconies and eaves to the sky above. But strolling out of the shadows and onto the open plaza that first welcomed me to Courmayeur is always a pleasurable memory and I make it my starting point for the Via Roma tour. 109

Bars and cafĂŠs are quiet; lone postcard racks mark book shops; butchers, cheese shops, bakeries, and clothing stores look like movie sets.

clockwise from left to right

1. Panizzi cheese shop. 2. A stroll along Via Roma. 3. Proprietor of La ChaumiĂ¨re, Alessandra Demoz revels in her new life. 4.Pizzeria Du Tunnel.

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Walking this lane during afternoon siesta is more to my liking, when the shops are shuttered and you might not see another person for minutes at a time: bars and cafés are quiet; lone postcard racks mark book shops; butchers, fromageries, bakeries, and clothing stores look like movie sets; and in a grocery store whose windows are hung with salamis and prosciuttos, the fruit and vegetables are so perfect in color, size, and arrangement that they look fake. Suddenly, as if an alarm has sounded, the street comes to life. Many people are headed to one place and I follow. It’s the popular Café Roma, oozing après buzz. Stepping inside, I see a huge spread of food on a long table, and a sign announcing a free buffet from 4 p.m. onward. I’ve been eating all day—all week, actually. And yet the first thought in my head is that it’s hard to imagine so much food on offer for free. I fall on it like a wolf.

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Masquerade Photographer Antonio Cordero Stylist John Martinez Assistant Stylist Carol Gamarra Makeup Yurema Villa (AnaPrado_Mgmt) | Kirsten Selinger Hair Moi Freire to Mön Icon / Graftobian Shot on location in Marbella, Spain at Villa Padierna

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LAST RUN

Telluride’s REVELATION BOWL

he snow was coming down hard, even by San Juan standards. Although it was getting late in the day, my wife, Jesse, and I had a few more laps in our legs. We had been hearing bombs going off over the Gold Hill Ridge for at least a couple hours and we were hopeful that the outstanding Telluride ski patrol was having some success on the north side in an amazing terrain feature known as Revelation Bowl. As we skied up to load the Gold Hill chair for one last lap, I overheard the lift-ops radio as the ski patrol announced, “We are going to open

Revelation Bowl!” Jesse and I looked at each other with knowing smiles and up we went. At the top we skated cross the ridge to the newly dropped rope and let gravity do the rest. The snow was deep and untracked down the skier’s left, a zone known as Liberty Bell. We avoided a couple of avalanche bomb holes near the ridge, a good indication of how deep things were. As it was late in the day, aside from a few locals who know the drill and timed it right, we almost had the bowl to ourselves. For us, it was pure luck ─ but they do say you make your own luck in the mountains!

We managed to sneak in two more laps on the Revelation chair before closing time. With each ride up we could admire our tracks and enjoy the hoots and hollers of others sharing the same joy. Jesse and I took a moment to appreciate the incredible view from the 12,500 foot top terminal of the chair. Looking down into the intense terrain of Bear Creek and the incredible couloirs of the Little Wasatch zone across the valley was the perfect ending to a day of storm skiing at Telluride. And we still had that final cruiser run back to town.

Two-time World Champion skier Chris Davenport is one of the worlds’ premier big mountain skiers. Among his many ski mountaineering achievements, in 2007 Chris became the first person to ski all fifty-four of Colorado’s 14ers in less than one year. With numerous first descents of peaks around the globe under his belt, he knows his runs. 122

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