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The Faces of Lembeh “Mucking about” means something different in this neighborhood, where a whole new world of weird awaits both above and below its sandy bottom.
ALEX MUSTARD
On the Cover: Sea lions off Vancouver tumble over one another to get a peek at the photographer. Photo by Paul Souders
BY A L E X M U STA R D
WHAT’S INSIDE:
pg.
18
Species Is there anything cuter than the smallest marine mammal? By Ned and Anna DeLoach
4 J U LY 2 0 1 4 | S P O R T D I V E R .C O M
pg.
36
A Dive For Every Depth Our dives grow as we do: Here’s a primer from 10 feet to 130. By Travis Marshall
pg.
46
Bahamas When divers think Bahamas, they think sharks. Here’s a look at four of the toothiest reasons why.
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PREDIVE // J U LY 2 0 1 4 FROM THE EDITOR’S DESK
Sport Diver T H E O F F I C I A L P U B L I C AT I O N O F T H E P A D I D I V I N G S O C I E T Y
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hen the staff conceived “Dives for Every Depth” on page 36, we recalled places that offered sites all along the rec-diving spectrum, and had a lively discussion of our favorite dives at specific depths, from being barely below the water’s surface with whale sharks in Mexico (Managing Editor Rebecca Strauss) to diving with sharks at every depth in Cuba (Deputy Editor Mary Frances Emmons) to dropping down into the blue on Grand Cayman’s steep walls (Senior Editor Tara Bradley). How to whittle this list down to the 13 sites included in the article? It wasn’t easy, and you’ll surely point out ones we missed. Perhaps more important is that our list is more than a collection of excellent dives — it’s designed to remind you to find your comfort zone, and appreciate the gifts you find there.
W
Patricia Wuest Editor-in-Chief
SPORTDIVER.COM EDITORIAL
Patricia Wuest EDITOR - IN- CHIEF Mary Frances Emmons DEPUTY EDITOR Tara Bradley SENIOR EDITOR Rebecca Strauss MANAGING EDITOR Roger Roy GEAR EDITOR Cindy Martin COPY EDITOR Amanda Morales EDITORIAL INTERN ART
Elizabeth Fleener ART DIRECTOR Carrie Garcia PHOTO EDITOR CONTRIBUTORS
Tanya G. Burnett, Dr. Jim Caruso, Paul Colley, Anna DeLoach, Ned DeLoach, Travis Marshall, Brooke Morton, Alex Mustard, Kevin Palmer, David Shiffman SALES
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The photogenic Aurelia aurita is the perfect subject for underwater photographers: Moon jellies are capable of only limited motion. Thanks for sending the photo, Tom Ñ we hope you enjoy the SeaLife Sea Dragon Mini 600 light weÕre sending you.
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FROM TOP: CARRIE GARCIA; COURTESY TOM GRAMLICH; GRAHAM FLEENER
I
really enjoy all your Imaging columns. A few friends and I Ñ dive students at the Dive Station in Orlando, Florida Ñ were doing a beach dive early in the morning. We were diving off the beaches just south of Sebastian Inlet off FloridaÕs southeast coast, and the water was crowded with moon jellies. I had only my GoPro2 with a red filter but decided to take a still shot as I watched the moon jellies glide through the rising sunlight. I could not see my immediate result until I got home. I was surprised by and happy with the picture taken.
Photo by: Stephen Frink
SUN, SEA, & A 5TH NIGHT FREE. THAT’S CAYMANKIND. Spend Summer Only in Cayman and save on a world of underwater wonder. By booking a 4-night stay, divers can delight in a 5th night free as well as a range of resort credits. With the “Only in Cayman Savings Card”, there’s even more to explore—you’ll enjoy up to 20% off on diving and watersports. Available now, this special will sink away on June 30 for travel through June 1 – September 1, 2014.
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Dive Briefs A R E YOU R FAVOR I T E DI V E S W I T H US AT f SH FAC E BOOK .COM/S PORT DI V E R
DB
TRAVEL CONSERVATION SPECIES SUBCULTURE GEAR
MICHAEL PATRICK O'NEILL
SD 07/14
WISH YOU WERE HERE
Gentle Giants
Goliath grouper are a species of biblical proportions
It’s almost mating season for the largest of the North Atlantic groupers, appropriately named the goliath grouper — they can grow up to 10 feet long and weigh up to 800 pounds when mature. Despite this intimidating size, goliath grouper have been losing ground to humans for 40 years — overfishing and loss of habitat contributed to a steep decline in goliath populations. Because of its slow maturity rate, mating season is vital to this critically endangered species.
WHEN TO GO:
New moon, August to October WHERE TO GO:
Jupiter, Florida jupiterdivercenter.com
J U LY 2 0 1 4 | S P O R T D I V E R .C O M 9
TRAVEL / CONSERVATION / SPECIES / SUBCULTURE / GEAR FOR MOR E I N FO ON T H E F LOR IDA PA N H A N DLE V ISI T S PORT DI V E R .COM
P E R F E C T 10 1 COCKTAILS AND DREAMS
Fried oysters, voodoo punch, a salt-weathered patio overlooking the Gulf — these are the reasons the sun sets to a packed house every night at Schooners Restaurant and Beach Club in Panama City Beach, which calls itself the “Last Local Beach Club.”
FLORIDA PANHANDLE On the Sunshine State’s northwest coast, the only things bigger than the shipwrecks are the beaches BY B RO O K E MO RT O N
schooners.com
2 CORE VALUES
5 BEST REASON TO ADD LEAD
florida-divepros.com
4 TUESDAY IS THE NEW FRIDAY
Maybe Tuesday isn’t the best night for rocking out, but during Pensacola’s April-to-October outdoor concert series, Bands on the Beach, everyone makes an exception as they unfold the beach chairs, and settle in with adult beverages and beachy beats. visitpensacolabeach.com
10 J U LY 2 0 1 4 | S P O R T D I V E R .C O M
The Florida Panhandle
A top-secret 1944 military operation off Pensacola brought the downfall, literally, of the San Pablo. (Apparently a U-boat attack wasn’t enough to sink it — the ship was refloated after.) Now the 315-foot former banana boat rests at 80 feet, where its busted boilers and refrigeration coils are still recognizable to divers.
Average water temp 67 degrees F » What to wear 7 mm full wetsuit » Average Viz 40 feet » When to Go March to late November » More info sportdiver.com/forida
3 LOOSE LIPS
DIVERS GUIDE:
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: JESSE CANCELMO; LOUIS DIBACCO/GETTY IMAGES/THINKSTOCK; CARRIE GARCIA
Visit paddleboard manufacturer YOLO, at the intersection of 30A and 393 in Santa Rosa Beach, to rent a board or demo newly designed gear. Do it right, and you’re on your way to a sixpack that you can’t buy at 7-Eleven. yoloboard.com
The Southern fare at Fish Out of Water, the oceanfront eatery at Watercolor Inn in Santa Rosa Beach, includes snapper ceviche, a different deviled-egg selection each evening, and a chocolate soufflé that’s so perfect, you’ll ask for the recipe. watercolorresort.com
6 TRAINING GROUNDS
After a first career as a fleet tug, the 143-foot USS Accokeek served as a salvage- and ordnancetraining vessel for Panama City-based Navy divers. The vessel was sunk a number of times until 2000 when
it found its final home at 100 feet. divelocker.net
7 IN YOUR
WHEELHOUSE
“It’s great for penetration — the wheelhouse windows are all wide open,” says Dive Locker’s Todd Yarbrough. He’s talking about the 1993 purposesunk Black Bart, an oil-field supply vessel in depths starting at 45 feet. On the dive plan: the easily navigable staircase and cargo holds. divelocker.net
8 SUCH GREAT HEIGHTS
The ride is pricey but worth it for aerial views of the hotel strip, beachgoers
in the surf, dolphins near the inlet, and gators in ponds. Plus, it’s proof of the Gulf’s clear water: On some days, you can spot stingrays and other deep swimmers against the white sand. panhandlehelicopter.com
9 YOU’LL KNOW IT
WHEN YOU DIVE IT
The Mighty O — also known as the aircraft carrier USS Oriskany — is the world’s largest artificial reef at 902 feet. Whereas the control tower once received flybys from the E-2 Hawkeye warning aircraft, it is now buzzed by whale sharks, manta rays and mola mola. florida-divepros.com
PASSPORT REQUIRED
ON THE MAP The area’s 12 best shipwrecks together form the Florida Panhandle Shipwreck Trail. Grab a passport and track your progress while diving across the Gulf. floridapanhandledivetrail.com
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Travel / conservation / species / subculture / gear
Grand Cayman’s newest underwater attraction comes with a message: Take care of these reefs! By PAT R IC I A W u E ST
I’m waiting at 60 feet with about 30 other divers while a 1,100-pound bronze statue called Guardian of the Reef dangles above us. Divetech co-owner Jay Easterbrook and his crew grapple with the statue at the surface, jockeying it into position so it can be placed atop its concrete pedestal. I’ve come to witness the end of the Guardian’s journey to its new location off Grand Cayman’s Divetech Lighthouse Point Dive Resort’s dock. The statue is floating horizontally, attached to two heavy-duty lift bags, and the team is focused on getting it vertical. Guardian is a mythological creature — half ancient warrior and half seahorse — but right now, it looks more like a drunken dance partner being helped off the floor. “I first started working on Guardian 10 years ago,” says Canadian artist Simon Morris. “And it’s now traveled 4,552 miles from British Columbia to Grand Cayman.” Morris and I accompany Guardian on its final leg of the journey, from its topside home at Lighthouse Point to a sand flat just 200 yards offshore. But it must take a circuitous route: It’s secured with heavy-duty webbing straps and loaded onto a truck where it’s taken to George Town Harbour. Next it’s attached to lift bags and dropped into the water, and finally, a boat equipped with a crane tows it to the reef off Divetech’s Lighthouse Point house reef. I think I heard Morris exhale when the boat pulled away from the marina. I know I did. “It’s intense — when he was in the air, time slowed down for me a bit,” Morris admits. “But this went well.” And now Morris and I are patiently waiting on the bottom as the statue is slowly guided to its base. Finally, Guardian is in place, and the team works to secure 12 j u ly 2 0 1 4 | S P O R T D I V E R .C O M
Divetech wanted a symbol of conservation on its house reef. It got it in an imposing bronze statue named Guardian of the Reef.
13 ft.
Celebrating Divetech’s 20th anniversary, marine conservation and local youth Before its sinking, Guardian of the Reef is the star attraction at a party celebrating Divetech’s 20th anniversary. Simon Morris, the sculptor, jokes that “he was really hard to work on — he’s very tall, and I’m very short.” The statue’s hefy size matches its purpose, as explained by Divetech co-owner Nancy Easterbrook. “This year Divetech is 20 years old,” she says. “I thought we should do something more permanent to celebrate the anniversary, something we could dedicate to ocean conservation and our local youth. The Guardian will symbolize our need to safeguard our reefs. And for every dive made on Guardian, we will donate a dollar to our conservation program for youths.” Morris echoes Easterbrook’s sentiments. “He has only 200 more yards to go — and then he will elevate people’s understanding of ocean conservation.”
The height of the Guardian, including the bronze column it sits atop; when you add in the concrete base, the statue rises 17 feet above the sand bottom.
the bolts. There is underwater clapping, and high fives are exchanged as camera strobes fire, recording another moment in the island’s proud legacy as a beacon for marine conservation. divetech.com
To donaTe to Divetech’s ocean conservation program for local youth — West Bay Eco Warriors — email emma@divetech.com.
From LeFt: ryan Canon; Courtesy DiveteCh
Safeguarding the reef
Party On, Guardian
underwater Box SeatS
Guests can get behind the scenes at La Reve.
A behind-the-scenes tour of La Reve, a Las Vegas theater experience for divers only
Courtesy Wynn Las vegas
By B Ro o k E Mo RT o N
“What we show you is devious,” says Chris Drumm-Coombs, head of aquatics at La Reve, the acrobatic-meets-water performance held at the Wynn Las Vegas resort in Nevada. “We reveal not tricks, but tricks of the trade — it’s not a magic show.” Open-water-certified guests can sign up for the Diver’s Dream experience with a price tag of $1,750
for one person or $2,450 for two (included is a twonight stay). After watching the illusions and stunts of the 75-minute spectacle from dry, VIP seating, visitors join the team for a behind-the-scenes tour. The real secrets happen in the 1.1-million-gallon pool, where 93 athletes work five nights a week. Guests get an orientation dive before the big show; when the music
starts, they’re ready for an immersive experience that takes place throughout the entire underwater stage. Divers watch synchronized swimmers, safety divers catching aerial stunt performers as they land following free-falls from 80 feet above, and more. Says Drumm-Coombs, “I choreograph the experience for guests so they see all the really cool stuff.”
READY, SET, DIVE
travel / conservation / species / subculture / gear
left: Dive all day and party all night at Trinidad’s famed Carnival. right: Bali’s elaborate cremation ceremonies celebrate life.
Topside color can rival what you see underwater By T r av i s M a r s h a l l
The reefs of the world’s tropical islands are loaded with colorful creatures and exotic sights, but don’t miss out on colorful local customs happening topside. Here are five of our favorite experiences from dive spots around the world.
14 j u ly 2 0 1 4 | S P O R T D I V E R .C O M
On the Riviera Maya, many resorts and spas are keeping alive the ancient temezcal tradition. Aztecs and Maya used domed sweat-lodge-style steam huts as a form of meditation and healing. You too can experience the ritual steam bath, scented with indigenous herbs, as the perfect way to wind down from a week’s dive vacation — just be warned: It’s hot in there.
CremaTioN CeremoNies of Bali In contention as the most elaborate and exuberant displays of any dive island are the joyous cremation ceremonies of Bali. Open to all visitors, these ceremonies are actually celebrations of life, in which endless food, music and offerings circulate as the deceased is placed into a ceremonial
bull and set alight on a blazing pyre amid the crowd.
BaiNiNg fire DaNCe iN raBaUl, PNg The waters of Rabaul Harbor, on the east end of Papua New Guinea’s New Britain Island, are littered with World War II-era shipwrecks, but travel inland to the Baining Mountains for a far more ancient historic experience. The Baining Fire Dance is a coming-of-age ritual for men of this secluded tribe, wherein they don eerie, painstakingly crafted masks while dancing around — and upon — a blazing fire, occasionally kicking showers of red coals among the onlookers.
Kava iN fiji An integral part of any village visit in Fiji is the communal kava ceremony. The mildly narcotic root is ground and steeped into
a tea before coconut-husk bowls are passed around the circle. You might be asked if you prefer high tide (full cup) or low tide (half-cup). When a bowl is proffered, first clap and yell “bula” before draining it in one gulp, then clap three times when you’re done.
The UlTimaTe all-NighTer aT The TriNi CarNival Carnival is celebrated almost everywhere in the Caribbean, from the Virgin Islands to Belize, but regional festivals happen at different times of the year, and each island celebrates in its own way. Trinidad’s Carnival is largest in the Caribbean, the gold standard by which others are measured. If two full days of calypso, costumes and revelry sound like your bag, then this is one party you can’t miss.
From LeFt: IngoLF PomPe/ageFotostock; aLvaro LeIva/aLamy
Exotic DivE-islanD customs
TemezCal oN The riviera maya
travel / conservation / species / subculture / gear
Tag and Release
Students at the University of Miami track shark migratory patterns
Scientists are getting closer to revealing the secret lives of sharks. An ongoing project at the R.J. Dunlap Marine Conservation Program at the University of Miami is utilizing a custom satellitetagging network to track sharks and their travels in the Atlantic Ocean. On a typical outing, RJD scientists and students tag an average of three to five sharks. Media and virtual-learning manager for RJD, Christine Shepard,
has joined researchers on numerous trips. “We catch a variety of shark species, such as nurse, great hammerhead, lemon, blacktip, bull, tiger, and many more,” says Shepard. Sharks are caught and released using methods intended to inflict minimal stress and harm. “All the research methods we use are designed to promote health and survivorship in the sharks, while
also gathering vital data to improve conservation management,” says Shepard. The satellite tag records the shark’s location, as well as conditions surrounding the animal. Every time the shark surfaces, the satellite tag transmits data on water temperature and the depth at which it is swimming. “I feel very fortunate to be working on a team with incredibly passionate and innovative marine scientists,” says Shepard. “Our work is
Sharks are tagged and released with minimally invasive procedures.
aimed to not only further the science behind marine-conservation policy, but also to improve scientific literacy and marine-conservation ethics.” You can sponsor individual satellite tags, and track the sharks using Google Maps.
» To follow the sharks, visit sharktagging.com.
Staghorns, elkhorns and a chorus of trumpets.
Y
LA
RG
O
For divers and snorkelers alike, Big Pine Key & Florida’s Lower Keys is music to their ears. Because with famed Looe Key Reef, home to 150 species of fish and more than 50 varieties of coral, and wrecks such as the perfectly upright 210’ freighter Adolphus Busch, Big Pine Key & Florida’s Lower Keys really is the perfect dive combo. fla-keys.com/lowerkeys 1.800.872.3722
KE
courtesy christine shepard
By A M A n dA Mo r A l e S
ISL
KEY W EST
BIG PINE KEY & THE LOWER KEYS
MARA
THO
AM
OR
AD
A
N
j u ly 2 0 1 4 | S P O R T D I V E R .C O M 15
TRAVEL / CONSERVATION / SPECIES / SUBCULTURE / GEAR
ANDY MURCH
FOR MOR E ON SH A R K OF T H E MON T H V ISI T S PORT DI V E R .COM
ORNATE WOBBEGONG Orectolobus ornatus
nown for their flat body, beautiful freckled coloration and fleshy projections on their head, the ornate wobbegong is one of the world’s most unique sharks. The head projections are believed to function primarily as camouflage, which helps them ambush prey as well as protect them from predators. Divers commonly see these bottom-dwelling sharks in their shallowwater habitat, resting under rocks or corals. They are nocturnal hunters, and feed mostly on invertebrates and fish that live on the bottom. Ornate wobbegong sharks are taken by targeted commercial fisheries for their meat, and are also threatened by recreational fishing, bycatch and habitat destruction.
K
Facts About Ornate Wobbegong Sharks Where to Find Them They are endemic to Australia and surrounding regions. Threat Level Near Threatened globally, Vulnerable in the Australian state of New South Wales (IUCN Red List) Maximum Size The maximum reported size is 9.5 feet. Interesting Facts » Ornate wobbegongs are homebodies. An individual was spotted in the same region, an area less
than 1/3 of a square mile, for more than 200 days. » Their distinctive skin was once used to make leather. » Their genus name, Orectolobus, means “stretched-out lobe” in Greek. » Ornate wobbegongs have an ovoviviparous reproductive strategy, a combination of laying eggs and live birth. They have between four and 18 pups at a time, each approximately 7 inches long at birth.
David Shiffman is a Ph.D. student at the University of Miami’s Abess Center for Ecosystem Science and Policy, where he studies shark ecology and conservation. is happy to answer any questions you have about sharks on Twitter t f Shiffman (@WhySharksMatter) or Facebook (facebook.com/WhySharksMatter). 16 J U LY 2 0 1 4 | S P O R T D I V E R .C O M
Talking Trash Investigating the Great Pacific Garbage Patch
COURTESY ANNIE CRAWLEY
BY A M A N DA MO R A L E S
Americans generated a staggering 251 million tons of trash in 2012, according to the Environmental Protection Agency, with plastic waste alone accounting for 32 million tons of that total. A new book, Plastic, Ahoy! Investigating the Great Pacific Garbage Patch, examines what happens when tons of plastic and other debris make its way to the ocean to become part of the Great Pacifc Garbage Patch. Author Patricia Newman spent three weeks at sea with Scripps Institution marine biologists and researchers exploring the efects of the plastic and other trash on marine life. Plastic, Ahoy! follows Miriam Goldstein, Chelsea Rochman and Darcy Taniguchi — all members of the 2009 Scripps Environmental Accumulation of Plastic Expedition — aboard the research vessel as they run tests on water and plastic samples to determine the impact of this pollution on the region. Photographer Annie Crawley captures images of the garbage patch — which is the result of pollution from shores, rivers and oceans — in this eye-opening book.
J U LY 2 0 1 4 | S P O R T D I V E R .C O M 17
TRAVEL / CONSERVATION / SPECIES / SUBCULTURE / GEAR
THE SEA OTTER
The smallest of the marine mammals has plenty of personality BY N E D A N D A N NA D E L OAC H
Sea otters use rocks to detach mollusks underwater and smash them open on their chest while floating on the surface.
When resting or feeding on the surface, sea otters often wrap themselves in kelp fronds to keep from drifting away.
Oil spills pose the most serious threat to sea otters, followed by killer whales and poaching. Thousands perished in the 1989 Alaskan Exxon Valdez oil spill.
Sea otters can dive to more than
100
Sea otters help maintain the kelp forest by consuming urchins that graze on the giant algae.
feet
deep and hold their breath for nearly five minutes.
When the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service relocated a colony of sea otters to one of California’s offshore islands, most swam back to the mainland.
Sea otters are the smallest marine mammals but the largest members of the weasel family, with some males weighing in at just under 100 pounds.
Sea otters often float together in male or female groups, known as rafts. The largest raft ever recorded had more than 2,000 otters. FOLLOW T HE U NDERSE A A DV EN T U R ES OF NED A ND A N NA DELOACH AT MARINELIFEBLOG.COM
18 J U LY 2 0 1 4 | S P O R T D I V E R .C O M
FROM TOP LEFT: RICHARD MITTLEMAN/GON2FOTO/ALAMY; KENNAN WARD/CORBIS/AGEFOTOSTOCK; COLIN CURWOOD/ALAMY; MUSTAFA6NOZ/THINKSTOCK; ROLF HICKER/AGEFOTOSTOCK; BIGANDT_PHOTOGRAPHY/THINKSTOCK
Sea otters have the thickest coat in the animal kingdom, with up to a million hairs per square inch.
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TRAVEL / CONSERVATION / SPECIES / SUBCULTURE / GEAR
Dr. Andrea Marshall has devoted her life to conserving these giants of the sea BY C H R I S M I T C H E L L
Q: Myanmar is only just opening up
— does the current lack of tourists help research? A: Black Rock is one of the only places I’ve found anywhere in the world where it is largely pristine. That doesn’t mean they don’t have fishing impacts or they haven’t bombed it. They do, but there are no tourist activities there. There’s no constant human traffic or footprint that is clouding my perception of what is occurring naturally with these animals.
One of the most indefatigable campaigners for manta ray conservation, National Geographic Emerging Explorer and manta ray conservationist Dr. Andrea Marshall has spent years studying mantas from her adopted home in the tiny town of Tofo in Mozambique, where she’s confirmed the existence of a second manta ray species, the giant manta ray, Manta birostris, as well as co-founding the Marine Megafauna Foundation. Research gathBLACK ROCK ered from thousands of IS ONE OF THE manta sightings around the ONLY PLACES globe logged by divers on foI’VE FOUND rum boards and at the online ANYWHERE IN database mantamatcher.org THE WORLD have helped her identify sevWHERE IT IS LARGELY eral key locations worldwide PRISTINE. for encounters with giant manta rays. Now she’s discovered one of the world’s major giant manta ray hot spots in remote Myanmar, thanks to data compiled from information submitted by thousands of divers worldwide.
“
number-one way divers can help. It is such a cool thing to be a part of because it is literally taking the diving communities of the world, and then employing them like a manta army to deliver valuable information to the scientists who work together to produce global information on the animals. With these tools at our disposal, we can attack these problems with this awesome technology.
“
Black Rock in Myanmar?
Andrea Marshall is working to protect mantas like this one in Ecuador.
To read more about Andrea Marshall and manta-conservation issues, go to sportdiver.com.
20 J U LY 2 0 1 4 | S P O R T D I V E R .C O M
BY JA M E S L . C A RU S O, M . D.
Q: I have a friend who has more than 400 dives but might have COPD (Chronic Obstructive Pulmonary Disease). Will this affect his diving?
to help manta rays? A: Mantamatcher.org is the
A: I am absolutely obsessed
READ MORE
Chronic Obstructive Pulmonary Disease
Q: How can divers continue
Q: What’s so special about
with Black Rock. I’ve been there three years in a row. The first time I saw it, I knew there was going to be something going on because it’s
Diving Doctor
Lung tissue affected by emphysema.
A: COPD describes several lung
problems, but the most common form of COPD is pulmonary emphysema caused by cigarette smoking. As a Navy diving medical officer, I counseled many divers on the enormous benefits of quitting smoking. While I concede that the addictive properties of nicotine are well known, there are many new medications and quitting strategies available to motivated individuals. So what about COPD and diving? Emphysema is caused by destruction of elastic tissue within the lungs, creating air sacs that can no longer completely empty when the diver exhales. Not only does this impair gas exchange, but it also creates areas of the lung that can trap air and predispose the diver to a pulmonary overexpansion injury (e.g., pneumothorax, air embolism). Making matters worse are the increased secretions and mucous plugging of airways that also result from smoking. The benefits of quitting smoking are nearly immediate, and can be directly applied to safer diving.
© DR TONY BRAIN/SCIENCE PHOTO LIBRARY/CORBIS; OPPOSITE FROM TOP: COURTESY ANDREA MARSHALL; LIBBY BOWLES
RAISING A MANTA RAY ARMY
quite far offshore, in the middle of nowhere. That’s what giant mantas love, because they can clean and rest and socialize but are still close to deepwater drop-offs, so they can easily head back out looking for food. And because it’s the only rock in the whole area, all the giant mantas come to it. We’ve identified at least 50 to 60 individual mantas there already.
The UnderwaTer healer Photographer Erena Shimoda aims to show cancer survivors how beautiful they are underwater
courtesy erena shimoda
By A m A n dA mo r A l E S
Most underwater photography features marine life, but one diver is turning her camera on human beings. Tokyo native Erena Shimoda calls herself an underwater healer, whose photos have one goal: to help. Using underwater portraits, Shimoda hopes to inspire and encourage those who have endured traumatic life experiences. Shimoda first fell in love with diving on a trip to Roatan, Honduras. What began with a small underwater camera soon expanded to what she calls her “most expensive hobby,”
when four years ago she decided to start photographing people. “Taking photos of fish, I wasn’t really inspired. I was not happy with it,” Shimoda says. While helping with the American Cancer Society program “Look Good, Feel Better,” Shimoda sought a way to help boost patients’ confidence using her talents. “For females, self-image is really important,” Shimoda says. “Going through those treatments, losing hair and damaged skin — that reduces their confidence. I thought I could combine my photography
with cancer survivors to overcome their experience and body-image [issues].” As for her subjects, Shimoda says that they can be tentative at first but begin to loosen up throughout the shoot. “I’m not a big-name photographer, so I’m sure it’s hard for them to trust me taking their pictures, but after I show them what I did to their images, I think they feel more confident.” underwaterhealer.com
J u ly 2 0 1 4 | S P O R T D I V E R .C O M 21
Dive gear 8 bcs FOR MOR E bcs a n d accE s sOR iE s V isi T S PORT DIV E R .COM/GEAR
Dg
SD 07/14
tHat caN Fly
One not-so-fun part of dive travel: deciding what to leave behind (shoes?) so you can stuff your BC into your bag. Fortunately, there are lots of choices among travel BCs that combine comfort, performance and designs that make for quality gear that's easy to pack. By ro g e r roy P h o t o S By C a r r i e ga rC i a
›› aqUa lUng ZUMa The back-inflation Zuma weighs in at less than 5 pounds, and its soft backpack rolls up tight for travel. The chest strap has rails — with 14 attachment points — for adjustability. The Zuma has 34 pounds of lift in size medium/large, and flat exhaust valves to keep a tight profile. ContaCt: aqualung.com MSrP: $425
j u ly 2 0 1 4 | S P O R T D I V E R .C O M 23
Travel / conservaTion / species / subculTure / Gear
Back-style Bcs
SD 07/14
The Right Travel BC
Here’s how to make your search for the best BC even easier.
24 j u ly 2 0 1 4 | S P O R T D I V E R .C O M
Zeagle Covert
SherwooD SCUBa ventUra
About as compact as a BC can get, the Covert tips the scales at less than 4 pounds and rolls up like a burrito. Its twintank bands and waist-hugging harness provide great stability with 32 pounds of lift. Its top-load, easy-to-ditch weight pockets hold 16 pounds. ContaCt: zeagle.com MSrP: $429.95
Another lightweight at just 4.7 pounds, the back-buoyancy Ventura offers 37 pounds of lift in size medium, and is made of a nonabsorbent material that practically dries with a shake. The integrated weights load easily and ditch with a quick yank of the pull cord. ContaCt: sherwoodscuba.com MSrP: $470
1 If you travel on small aircraft to the tropics, start with lightweight styles. If you lean toward cooler waters, find the minimum features you need and the BC that satisfies those needs.
2 Even if a BC packs small or provides the buoyant lift and weight capability you need for your diving style, keep looking until you find the one that gives you the comfort you need.
3 A BC is the wrong choice if it won’t safely provide the lift and ballast load you need. Don’t be tempted to cut corners on lift, or try to stuff more into weight pockets than they’re rated for.
FOR MOR E bcs a n d accE s sOR iE s V isi T S PORT DI V E R .COM/GEAR
SUBgear levo
aeriS jetPaCk
Although it’s built around a lightweight full back plate for stability, the Levo still fits easily in a suitcase. It has a simple harness, basic weight pockets and a right-shoulder exhaust. Two noteworthy features are the jumbo air cell that provides a whopping 56 pounds of lift, and its friendly price tag. ContaCt: subgear.com MSrP: $379
The Jetpack solves the space problem by making the BC part of your luggage. The Jetpack straps to a semidry backpack that can carry gear plus extras, and works as a carry-on. One-size-fits-all, it has a good range of adjustability, 34 pounds of lift, and weight pockets that hold 14 pounds. ContaCt: diveaeris.com MSrP: $599.95
ladies
DeSigneD jUSt for woMen CreSSi travelight laDy For women who like a jacket BC, men’s models often just don’t fit. The Travelight Lady is specially cut to offer women the same stable and comfortable support as the men’s model. Features include 20.2 pounds of lift, roomy pockets, secure integrated weights, six alloy D-rings, and easy-load trim weight pockets. ContaCt: cressi.com MSrP: $449.95
j u ly 2 0 1 4 | S P O R T D I V E R .C O M 25
Travel / conservaTion / species / subculTure / Gear
J a c ke t-St yl e B cs
1
Scubapro Equator
The jacket-style Equator has a short back plate along the spine, providing a firm tank attachment point for stability but allows the BC to fold for packing. The buckleup integrated weights keep things compact with 29.2 pounds of lift in size medium, large pockets, three exhaust valves, octo pockets and eight stainless D-rings. contact: scubapro.com MSrp: $539
FOR MOR E BCs a n d aCCE s sOR iE s V isi T S PORT DI V E R .COM/GEAR
2
crESSi air travEl
This back-buoyancy model weighs 5.5 pounds and folds up into a compact tote. You get a harness system with lots of adjustment, and features like an integrated-weight system that holds 20 pounds, one roll-up cargo pocket, three exhaust valves, and 35.9 pounds of buoyant lift in size medium. contact: cressi.com MSrp: $449.95
SD 07/14
2
1
the Bc evolution
Packability vs. divability
Finding the balance that will work for you.
The gap is closing between the ultracompact model and full-feature BCs. Compact travel BCs are providing surprising levels of performance, while the fuller-feature BCs are light enough to be viable
26 j u ly 2 0 1 4 | S P O R T D I V E R .C O M
travel companions. While manufacturers have displayed lots of innovation in new travel-BC design, you can still fit only so much in a 5-pound bag. If you want all the bells and whistles, you’re not going to find
that in a 4-pound BC that rolls up like a sweater. The trick is to find a balance between performance, amenities and compactness. Thankfully the choice will be a lot less painful than it used to be — in the water and on your wallet.
Locally Grown
With super high-definition 4K video, you may be able to capture every shade of blue in the world. But we recommend adding a few more colors. The Vega Video + Photo Light will illuminate your subject with 2000 lumens of color-popping power in a package small enough to fit in your pocket. You'll never look at underwater video the same way again.
Find an Authorized Ikelite Dealer at ikelite.com.
Dive Life NEWS, EVENTS & PEOPLE OF THE PADI DIVING SOCIETY
DL
SD 07/14
The 2014 ScubaEarth Video Contest Is Underway Submit your best shots for a chance to win a new GoPro Hero3+ BY M E GA N D E N N Y, E-M A R K E T I NG E X E C U T I V E , PA DI A M E R IC A S
UPCOMING SOCIETY EVENTS Total Submersion Dive Festival June 14-21
Kids Sea Camp 2014
Celebrate Total Sub’s 15th anniversary in Grand Cayman. It’s hosted at Sunset House, and sponsored by Sport Diver, Aqua Lung, Divers Alert Network, Caybrew, and Cayman Islands Tourism. For reservations, contact PADI Travel Network at 800-729-7234 (U.S. and Canada) or 949-858-7234, ext. 2539 or email ptn1@padi.com.
Give them a week they will remember forever. Destinations for 2014 include Australia, Roatan, St. Lucia, Fiji, Utila and Little Cayman. For event dates and more details, visit familydivers.com.
28 J U LY 2 0 1 4 | S P O R T D I V E R .C O M
FOR MOR E I N FOR M AT ION A BOU T T H E SC U B A E A RT H V IDEO CON T E ST V ISI T SCU BAEARTH .COM
As underwater cameras become more affordable and accessible, many divers (including myself) have taken a giant stride into the world of underwater video. Since getting my first GoPro in December 2011, it has been my constant companion on every dive trip. I’ve also spent the past few months watching hundreds of underwater videos submitted to the 2014 ScubaEarth video contest. If you’re interested in entering (and possibly winning a new GoPro Hero3+ with underwater housing), read on for some tips to help create a great underwater video — and earn kudos from the judges.
Tip 1: Get the right accessories.
» The head and chest straps that work well for other action sports are typically not the best choice for scuba diving. Strap a camera to your head, and you’re bound to get jerky footage with poor composition. An extendable pole or hand-held grip mount are better choices. » A tray mount with a handle will also serve you well. The two-handed mount improves steadiness and makes your videos look more professional. » A color-correcting filter or a dive light made for photos/video is a must; contact a PADI dive center and get one of these items before putting one toe in the water. A flip-up filter is helpful to prevent red-sky effects topside.
Tip 4: Include other divers.
Got a great scuba video? You could win a GoPro Hero3+ and appear online as our ScubaEarth video of the month. Learn more at scubaearth.com/gopro-videocontest-details.
a wreck, or a lounging turtle. To add interest, try swimming around the object slowly, and get as close as you can without touching or disturbing marine life. » Good buoyancy skills are essential for memorable photography. If your buoyancy is poor, video viewers will know — your footage will be uneven. You also won’t be able to film interesting creatures that require a slow and steady approach. If you feel the least bit in doubt about your skills, enroll in a PADI Peak Performance Buoyancy course. You won’t regret it.
» If diving in a herd, try to get in front. Divers swimming toward you provide more-interesting action than those swimming away. Bonus: If you’re ahead of the crowd, you’re more likely to get that cool critter shot before another diver scares it away. » If you encounter a large critter or sponge of remarkable size, try to film your dive buddy next to it for visual size comparison. On my last trip to Cozumel, I saw the most massive turtle I’d ever seen in the Caribbean. Having a diver in the shot gave it perspective. » Last, keep in mind that the main audience for your video will be friends
Using accessories allows you to get closer to your subjects, such as this crab (right) and pufferfish (below).
FROM TOP: BARRY BROWN; JORDI CHIAS; OPPOSITE: JORDI CHIAS
Tip 2: Tell a story.
» Do you have any goals for the trip? Tell us upfront, either as a video testimonial or using subtitles. That final scene with a whale shark, or 100th dive celebration, will make your video more meaningful. » Collect shots of the boat, your hotel, interesting topside life or interesting buildings. Use these to establish a sense of place, perhaps in an intro montage.
Tip 3: Dive and shoot within your limits.
» If you’re new to underwater video, film stationary or slow-moving subjects such as coral heads, divers hovering over J U LY 2 0 1 4 | S P O R T D I V E R .C O M 29
Dive Life
Glassfish cover the wreck of the Satill in the Red Sea.
and family. To them, you are the most important character. Give the audience what they want: Lend your buddy your camera to capture you swimming near some cool marine life. If you’re diving from a dinghy, go for the back-roll selfie!
Tip 5: Postproduction counts.
Noam Kortler
» Less is more. Each clip should be trimmed to five seconds or less, unless you’ve got something truly amazing (like a whale shark giving birth). » Aim for a total video length of no more than three minutes. » If you’ve got a long clip with something interesting in the beginning, a boring middle section, and another interesting bit at the end, break it up into two clips. » Hold the viewer’s attention by including interesting facts as title cards using iMovie or YouTube’s editor. If you’ve found these tips helpful, try a
PADI Underwater Videography specialty course, where you’ll learn skills such as how to take care of your O-rings, how to keep your camera from fogging and the proper angle for shooting. You’ll see a significant improvement in the quality
of your videos, and the local PADI Pro can probably show you the area’s coolest critters to film. You can also complete a single underwater videography experience as part of the Advanced Open Water course, or as a single Adventure Dive.
of honduras
more than you ever imagined... Call Toll Free in the USA & Canada 800-410-9608
LetsGoHonduras.com
Deep Blue Resort, Utila
Barefoot Cay Resort, Roatan
CoCo View Resort, Roatan
In USA 786-245-4025 In Utila 011-504-957-63-697 info@deepblueutila.com www.DeepBlueUtila.com A beachfront resort surrounded by indigenous plants and animals. Spacious rooms with airconditioning and private balconies overlooking the Caribbean Sea. With a maximum of twenty guests, it’s a real hideaway. Three boat dives per day and unlimited shore diving just feet from your room.
1-866-246-3706 Info@BarefootCay.com www.BarefootCay.com
1-800-510-8164 dro@cocoviewresort.com www.cocoviewresort.com
Luxury boutique resort offering beachfront bungalows and villas, and oceanview lofts. Valet diving 3x daily with PADI 5-Star Dive Center, Barefoot Divers. Pristine sites such as Mary’s Place just minutes away. Amenities include gourmet dining, spa services, beach, pool and palapa.
Dive! Dive! Dive! Discover the World’s favorite dive destination. UNLIMITED (24-hr!) shore diving in our Famous Front Yard, two walls & a shipwreck. Daily 2 boat & 2 drop-off dives. A/C Guest rooms Over-water or Oceanfront. Direct flights from Houston, Miami, Atlanta & Dallas. Great LOW FALL RATES. Nature Made it Beautiful,We Make it Easy!
For Bay Islands of Honduras Travel Deals & Dive Guide Visit: www.sportdiver.com/bayislands 30 J u ly 2 0 1 4 | S P O R T D I V E R .C O M
Project AWARE
Drive & Dive
FOR MOR E , V ISI T PROJ ECTAWARE .ORG
BECOME AN ECO-TOURIST Help protect our ocean planet with Project AWAREÕs 10 tips
BY T I F FA N Y L E I T E , A S S O C I AT E DI R E C T O R , C O M M U N IC AT IO N S & OU T R E AC H P ROJ E C T AWA R E F OU N DAT IO N
BELOW: Be an eco-tourist and
JOHN WHITE PHOTOS/ALAMY
buy locally made souvenirs like these Balinese baskets.
executed eco-travel can be a powerful driver of the local change most needed to protect the environment. Do your homework when looking for sustainable hotels, dive shops and other eco-operators. Many operators — especially hotels and resorts — should have verifiable, published sustainability commitments or green statements. PADI’s Green Star Award (padi.com) can help you locate dive operators who have done work to green their operations as well. Where you stay, your activities, what you buy, and what you eat also matter. If you must have souvenirs, look for local, sustainably sourced, reusable items that you will keep. When you pay for services, look for local providers who employ local staff, use resources wisely and dispose of waste properly.
Tip 8
Eat, Sleep, and Buddy Dives Free Packages 7 nights’ accommodations 7-day truck rental 6 days of unlimited shore diving Free Nitrox
Be an Eco-tourist Make informed decisions when choosing and visiting a destination. Choose facilities dedicated to responsible social and environmental business practices that include water conservation, energy reduction, proper waste disposal, use of mooring buoys, and respect for local cultures, laws and regulations.
10 Tips for Divers to Protect the Ocean Planet
The summer travel season is in full swing, but before you travel, remember to check out Project AWARE’s “10 Tips for Divers to Protect the Ocean Planet,” and sign the pledge to take conservation to heart every time you dive at projectaware .org/10TipsPledge. In this issue, we feature Tip No. 8: Be an Eco-tourist, wherein we emphasize the importance of choosing operators who are dedicated to responsible social and environmental business practices. Eco-tourism is among the fastest growing segments of the tourism industry worldwide. Consumer power — the power of your wallet — can be a strong influence for cleaner, greener and more socially responsible practices, and properly
BONAIRE
Together, we can make a difference by adopting some simple changes in our everyday lives.
Buddy Dive Resort $796 pp/db or $789 pp/qd Breakfast daily REEF Fish ID Weeks: Aug 16-30 Marine Life Education: Aug 30-Sep 27
Belmar Oceanfront Apartments $1010 pp/db or $616 pp/qd UW Photography Weeks: Aug 30-Sep 27
Be a Buoyancy Expert
Be a Role Model
Caribbean Club $916 pp/db or $527 pp/qd 2nd Diver Dives Free: Oct 1-Dec 20
Take Only Photos — Leave Only Bubbles
Protect Underwater Life
Become a Debris Activist
Make Responsible Seafood Choices
Take Action
Be an Eco-tourist
800-328-2288 sales@caradonna.com All packages also include free diving for the 2nd or 4th person, roundtrip airport transfers, hotel taxes and service charges. Rates are per person and subject to restricted travel dates, availability, and standard terms and conditions.
Shrink Your Carbon Footprint
Give Back
CSOT#2111
3-40 • WSOT#60325436 • FSOT#38781
J U LY 2 0 1 4 | S P O R T D I V E R .C O M 31
Images
improving your underwater photography & video
Pygmies are the most popular seahorses, and many photographers show off their skills by shooting these tiny animals as big as possible. Instead, try shooting them small in the frame with an off-center composition. Giving them space emphasizes their diminutive size and their amazing adaptation to their habitat.
SeahorSeS
mission possible: photographing an elusive creature
I
’d wager that every diver can remember seeing his first seahorse, unless he’s still waiting to see one. These tiny creatures are one of the ocean’s A-list celebrities, instantly recognizable even to nondivers living thousands of miles from the ocean. Seahorses don’t inhabit every underwater environment, though; I’ve found them living mostly in sheltered bays without waves, and in surprisingly shallow water. If you want your seahorse pictures to deliver, it is important to capture their distinctive and characteristic shape. This 32 j u ly 2 0 1 4 | S P O R T D I V E R .C O M
presents a challenge, however, as seahorses are not always the most obliging subjects. They survive by remaining hidden, so patience is vital, first to find them and then to capture a pleasing pose. Even once you’ve spotted one, seahorses like to play coy, and are notorious for turning away from the camera. If I intend to photograph them, I make sure to use a long macro lens, and perhaps even add a teleconverter so I can shoot them from slightly farther away. Also, I never use a focus light because doing so is almost guaranteed to
By Alex Mustard Alex Mustard is a marine biologist who has been a full-time underwater photographer and author since 2004. To view more of his work, visit amustard.com.
make them shy away. Strobes don’t seem to disturb them, though, and once I’ve won their trust, I’m usually rewarded with a great series of images.
FOR MOR E t ips On u n dERwat ER phOtOgR a ph y V isi t S PORT DI V E R .COM
light creatively Creative lighting can be an effective way of making a seahorse’s silhouette stand out from the background. Translucent ones or those with hairy filaments will look particularly impressive when backlit. Seahorses are too small to completely hide a strobe behind, so you should light them from behind but off to the side. Backlighting is more easily controlled with a strobe fitted with a snoot to constrain the beam. Photo by David evans CAMerA Canon powerShot g10 housInG ikelite // sTroBes Single ikelite dS-51 // seTTInGs f/8, 1/60 sec, iSo 100 // loCATIon rye pier, victoria, australia
FocuS on eyeS Seahorses are shy, so photos with great eye contact will always stand out. Seahorses are never going to look at the camera all the time, so my approach is to stay still and watch them through the viewfinder, taking photos only at the moment I get eye contact. I have even had success waggling my pinky up and down above the lens while everything else is motionless to pique their curiosity. There is a simple rule to tell whether a picture has eye contact: If you have to ask, it doesn’t! Eye contact jumps out from the photograph and grabs the viewer’s attention instantly. Photo by Matt Tworkowski CAMerA nikon d70s // housInG nexus lens micro nikkor 60mm f/2.8g ed // sTroBes inon Z240 seTTInGs f/20, 1/60 sec, iSo 200 // loCATIon rye pier, victoria, australia
Get Close ... Then Closer
the best way to photograph shy critters? pros use long-reaching macro lenses.
Nikon 105mm f/2.8G ED-IF AF-S VR Micro- Nikkor Lens backscatter.com $984.95
Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro USM IS Lens backscatter.com $1,249.00
emphaSize Shape Shooting a seahorse from the side is the best way to show its distinctive shape. Usually, when a seahorse holds on with its prehensile tail, its body will be slowly rotating. Try to time taking your photograph to capture the best body pose as it moves. Ideally, you should frame a seahorse against a distant background, which will show its shape most clearly. When this isn’t possible, open the aperture to blur the background and make its shape pop out.
Photo by Alex Mustard CAMerA nikon d4 housInG Subal lens nikkor 105mm f/2.8 with aF-S teleconverter tC-20e iii sTroBe Seacam 150 // seTTInGs f/20, 1/50 sec, iSo 200 loCATIon Capo Coda Cavallo, Sardinia, italy
j u ly 2 0 1 4 | S P O R T D I V E R .C O M 33
Taken with SeaLife DC1400
Sea Dragon 2000 Lumen Shown with DC1400 camera using optional cold shoe mount
Sea Dragon 1200 Lumen Perfect for compact cameras like GoPro®
Powerful new lights for dive, video or photo. Light for any camera, any dive, any adventure.
New Flex-Connect Trays, grips and arms click together in seconds
Versatile Simply remove from grip for a compact and powerful dive light
DC1400 Sea Dragon Pro Duo DC1400 with Flex-Connect Dual Tray & grips, Sea Dragon 2000 Light and Flash, featuring optional Flex Arms
Sea Dragon 2000 Lumen Shown with SeaLife DC1400, includes Flex-Connect tray and grip
Quickly and easily expand your set with the SeaLife Flex-Connect system – add grips, Flex Arms, lights, trays and other accessories with just a simple “click.”
sealife-cameras.com facebook.com/SeaLifeCameras
Images
COMPACT CAMERA PHOTOGRAPHY TIPS
Capture the Moment
BROugh t tO yOu By S EALI FE - CAM E RAS .COM
image BacKgrounDS
With the new DC1400 Sea Dragon Edition camera
Keep your backdrop simple for memorable shots
CoMPACT CAMerAs
A reef shark photographed against a simple blue background.
CAMerA olympus XZ-2 compact camera // housInG olympus pt-054 // sTroBes inon Z240 // seTTInGs f/6.3, 1/640 sec, iSo 100 noTes natural-light background, flash-lit foreground at a 60-foot depth and 3 feet from the shark
1
WhY IT MATTers
A good background in terms of photography means an area of relative inconspicuousness. Portrait photographers place subjects against prepared backdrops to remove clutter, as should you. Think of the background first when planning your shots; it will frame and enhance your subject, as well as provide contrast and context.
2
GooD BACKGrounDs
Blue- and green-water backgrounds
are simple and effective, so look outward and upward from reefs for subjects in open water. Alternatively, anything that provides context for a creature — such as the anemone for an anemonefish — can be good background. Select a vibrant color patch, and wait for your subject to swim into the right background.
3
In The WATer
If using a flash, use high shutter speeds and small apertures to create black backgrounds, perfect to highlight a fish portrait. Slower shutter
By Paul Colley paul Colley is an awardwinning underwater photographer, compactcamera instructor and author of Winning Images with Any Underwater Camera. mpcolley.com
speeds and larger apertures can create blue-water backgrounds. Rely on the flash to freeze the motion of the foreground subject. Using manual-exposure mode (M) gives you great control over aperture and shutter speed to control these background colors.
The new DC1400 Sea Dragon Edition offers faster shutter response, better low light performance and is designed to be compatible with new Sea Dragon underwater lighting. The camera is available in several ready-to-dive sets that include Sea Dragon Lighting and Flex-Connect accessories, making it easier than ever to capture magical encounters in brilliant color and make them last a lifetime.
DC1400 Sea Dragon Pro Duo Set
Learn more at sealife-cameras.com
DIVES FOR EVERY DEPTH
YOU KNOW WHERE YOU’RE MOST COMFORTABLE IN THE WATER. HERE ARE 13 KNOCK-YOUR-FINS-OFF DIVES – FROM 10 TO 130 FEET – TO MATCH YOUR INNER DEPTH FINDER. BY TR AVIS MARSHALL
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130
Divers are obsessed with depth. How deep we go has become bravado-infused shorthand for our dive experience and our comfort in the water. But any truly experienced diver worth his or her salt will tell you it isn’t the depth of the dive, but rather the quality of the experience that matters. To prove the point, we’ve pulled together some of our favorite dives from every depth in the recreational-diving range — from a mind-blowing 10-foot dive in Florida that will make you wish every dive were this shallow, to a heart-wrenching wreck in Micronesia that is worth every second of its 10-minute bottom time.
10
FT
BR ING T HIS
FROM TOP: WILFRED HDEZ; MICHAEL PATRICK OÕNEILL; OPPOSITE, FROM TOP: PHILLIP COLLA; CHRISTOPHER PARSONS; TODD WINNER
SUBGEAR APNEA SNORKEL
10
You know all the reasons for diving with a snorkel. Here’s another: It doesn’t have to dangle from your mask. Made of flexible silicone, SubGear’s Apnea rolls into a tight ball that fits in a small BC pocket but springs back to shape in an instant.
ft.
Blue Heron Bridge [
CONTACT:
subgear.com $18
MSRP:
FLORIDA ]
In water that Yao Ming could practically stand in, shore-loving divers at Blue Heron Bridge in Riviera Beach, Florida, can spot some of the sea’s most unusual critters — everything from hairy frogfish and flying gurnards to spotted eagle rays and manatees. Tidal currents and a busy boat channel nearby mean this easy beach dive requires a little advance planning, but if you wade in 20 minutes before the current slacks at high tide, you’ll have calm waters and the chance to see weird creatures you thought were only in exotic Pacific destinations — including long-arm octopuses, stargazers and seahorses. At Phil Foster Park, a recently added swim zone features an artificial reef of boulders and concrete blocks along an 800-foot snorkel trail; the surrounding cement pilings provide shelter for even more critters. jupiterdivecenter.com J U LY 2 0 1 4 | S P O R T D I V E R .C O M 37
Samurai Pier [
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M I L N E B AY, P N G ]
A once bustling port at the fringe of Papua New Guinea’s Milne Bay, the historic pier at Samurai Island may not see many boats anymore, but the coral-encrusted pilings, discarded clam nets and other detritus scattered beneath the pier still draw staggering levels of marine-life traffic. Descend alongside the crumbling pilings and sink into a vast school of shimmering baitfish before
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touching down on the jumbled debris floor. The 20-foot dive bursts not only with exotic muck creatures like harlequin shrimp and ghost pipefish, but also larger creatures like wobbegong sharks and batfish. Enjoy nearly unlimited bottom time tipping up bottles, boots and half coconut shells among the pilings in search of pipefish, stonefish and octopuses. papuanewguinea.travel
SCUBAPRO X-TEK SPOOL Whether you’re towing a surface marker on a shallow dive or popping up an SMB at your safety stop, you’ll need a spool. The compact X-Tek Spool comes with
100 feet of braided line and a doubleend snap. CONTACT:
scubapro.com $32
MSRP:
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Dos Ojos Cenote [ R I V I E R A M AYA , MEXICO ]
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path into the jagged mouth of the second opening, where towering stalactites hang like teeth in a gaping mouth. To the left, the Bat Cave Line follows a side branch, a darkened tunnel filled with delicate soda-straw formations leading to a massive chamber half-filled with air, the ceiling hung with clusters of small bats. phoceamexico.com
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Blue Corner [ ] PALAU
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SUBGEAR REBEL BC
It’s no less important for kids to have dive gear that fits properly. SubGear’s Rebel BC is kid size but full featured, with 15 pounds of lift, drop weights, three dump valves, and a comfortable harness.
CONTACT:
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FROM TOP: REINHARD DIRSCHERL; WENDY CAPILI-WILKIE; OPPOSITE: MICHELE WESTMORLAND
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K ID S DI V E
The Maya believed that cenotes were the entrance to Xibalba, the Mayan underworld, but divers know that the freshwater sinkholes of Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula are doorways to the largest subterranean-river system in the world. From the mouth of the cavern at Dos Ojos, divers can follow two lines. The Barbie Line to the right follows a well-lit
No matter where you look, you’ll experience a head-spinning adrenalin rush while diving at Palau’s Blue Corner. This exposed reef juts into current-swept waters teeming with sharks, fish and turtles. The name of the game here is reef-hooking, a practice born at Blue Corner in which you descend along the swiftly rising current to the action zone at around 40 feet, where you use a hook and lanyard to stay in one spot on the reef, allowing the marine life to sweep past in an endless parade. sportdiver.com/palau
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subgear.com $349
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CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT: STEPHEN FRINK COLLECTION/ALAMY; JOEL PENNER; PHILLIP COLLA
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Benwood [
KEY LARGO, FLORIDA ]
When most divers think of wreck diving in the Florida Keys, their minds immediately go to massive artificial reefs like the Spiegel Grove and Vandenberg, but in fact, one of the most popular Keys wrecks sits no deeper than 50 feet. The Benwood was a merchant-marine freighter that sank in a collision in 1942, and more than 70 years on the seafloor has made it a veritable reef 40 J U LY 2 0 1 4 | S P O R T D I V E R .C O M
50 in its own right; today it is caked in corals, frosted by vast forests of Christmas tree worms, and home to an incredible population of reef fish. Snapper, goatfish and grunts pack the holds, while queen angelfish and trumpetfish hover along the superstructure. Return at night to see the ship in a whole new light, with lobsters and green morays cruising the open decks. horizondivers.com
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60 ft. First Cathedral [ ] L A N A I , H AWA I I
Divers say it’s a religious experience, and that First Cathedral — one of Maui County’s most picturesque dives — is aptly named. Follow the mooring line to the foot of an undersea pinnacle, a massive rock dome created from a bubble of ancient lava. The entrance appears like a mere crack in the wall, but fin through the fissure and the room opens before you. Once inside, the “cathedral” part of the name becomes apparent. Roughly cross-shaped with a long aisle and two arms, a hole in the ceiling over the center point sends shafts of light onto a massive boulder, illuminating it like a stained-glass window in a church sanctuary. Take the left arm to the floorlevel exit, nicknamed the Champagne Cork, where you can time your fin kicks with the ocean’s surge to soar onto the outside reef. goscubadivemaui.com
70ft. Wolf Island [ GALAPAGOS ]
Remote and wild — home to ripping currents, steep walls, crazy-big schools of pelagic fish, and packs of sharks — Wolf Island is the pinnacle of Galapagos diving. Drop down to an ideal depth of 70 feet, and just sit back and enjoy the show: Galapagos sharks prowl the seas, whitetips writhe and flow from cracks and crevices in the rocks, and out in the blue water, a never-ending swarm of scalloped hammerheads — gorgeously silhouetted by the sun — slowly swirl the island like moths around a giant flame. aggressor.com
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OP E N WAT E R
AQUA LUNG TITAN LX
The best way to celebrate a new C-card is with a brandnew reg to go with it. The Titan LX is lightweight, compact and delivers superior performance at a
modest price. Features include a thumb-operated Venturi lever and an environmentally sealed first stage to prevent water entry. CONTACT:
aqualung.com $460
MSRP:
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Airport ft. Shark [ T U B B ATA H A , P H I L I P P I N E S ] The remote Tubbataha Reef National Park is in the heart of the Philippines’ Sulu Sea. Accessible only by liveaboard, and with a dive season that’s a mere three months long, these little-disturbed reefs remain in pristine condition. At the signature site Shark Airport, you’ll drop onto a wide, shallow plateau that leads to a shelf at 80 feet. Expect close encounters with the many whitetip reef sharks that buzz the landing strip. Jacks, rainbow runners and snapper cruise past on the ocean currents, while the reef itself is a color-laden candy store of soft and hard corals. sirenfleet.com
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JENNIFER O’NEIL; OPPOSITE, FROM TOP: DAMIEN MAURIC; GREG PIPER
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SS Thistlegorm [ ] RED SEA, EGYPT
The most clamored-for dive in the Red Sea is also one of the greatest wreck dives in the world. A British supply ship in World War II, the Thistlegorm was bringing a cargo of much-needed supplies to Allied troops when it was spotted by German bombers and dispatched to the seafloor off the tip of the Sinai Peninsula. Never salvaged, it was eventually rediscovered by Jacques Cousteau and his Calypso crew. Today the ship stands as an undersea museum, its cargo holds still packed to the gills with Bedford trucks, BSA motorcycles, boots and rifles. aggressor.com
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ft. BONAIRE ]
There’s no shortage of great dives at any depth on Bonaire, but most visitors to this shore-diving mecca will agree that one of the best deep reefs can be found at Karpata. Park at the iconic yellow-painted rock marking the site’s location, and from there, a short walk down a stairway leads to an easy entry and steep, sloping reef that quickly transitions into a near-vertical wall. Descend to around 100 feet for stunning views of the pristine reef towering above, sunlight streaming through the crystal-clear water, while parrotfish, triggerfish and snappers dance in the water column. Small caves dot the reef wall, so bring a light to look for moray eels and lobsters hiding in the recesses. buddydive.com
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ft. [Odyssey R O ATA N , B AY I S L A N D S ]
The cargo freighter Odyssey was being rebuilt in Roatan’s French Harbour in 2002 when it caught fire. The flames raged for days, and eventually local dive-shop owners offered the solution. They sank the ship as an artificial reef off Mud Hole on the island’s north coast. From bow to stern the wreck is 300 feet long, but the main attraction is the accommodations
120 ft. Kaleidoscope [ ] R A JA A MPAT, INDONE SI A
Named for the cylindrical kaleidoscopes that use mirrors and colorful glass beads to create beautiful patterns, the reef here has a magic all its own, carpeted with a dizzying array of soft corals and critters. Off the western tip of Papua, New Guinea, the Raja Ampat islands are a remote, 1,500-island chain in Indonesia where divers’ dreams come true. A hotbed of biodiversity at the heart of the Coral Triangle, Raja Ampat has something for every diver. At Kaleidoscope, that something is brightly colored creatures. Look closely at the pink gorgonian fronds to spot fingernail-size pygmy seahorses, or enlist your divemaster’s help in finding rare nudibranchs, rhinopias and ornate ghost pipefish. While Kaleidoscope is primarily a small-critter dive, it’s not uncommon to spot blacktip reef sharks or mobula rays finning their way across the reef. thearenui.com
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quarters at the stern — the holds that once comprised the middle of the ship have mostly collapsed — and at the back end the picturesque tower boasts the zigzagging lines of exterior stairways laden with soft coral growth. Swim up the stairways to the crew quarters to find wide-open rooms now inhabited by angelfish and barracuda. palmettobayplantation.com
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TODD WINNER; OPPOSITE, FROM TOP: CARLOS VILLOCH; DEBBIE ARRIAGA
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130 ft. Nippo Maru
More-challenging dives require more-capable gear. The watch-size D4i Novo uses an advanced reduced-gradient bubble model algorithm, and has four operating modes, optional wireless air integration, and a built-in dive planner – and comes in hot new colors.
CONTACT:
aqualung.com $765 (optional transmitter $450)
MSRP:
100
[ TRUK LAGOON, CHUUK ]
During WWII, American bombers crushed the Japanese Imperial fleet at this remote outpost during Operation Hailstorm, sending 60 ships and hundreds of planes to the bottom of the lagoon. The Nippo Maru was a cargo ship torpedoed by a U.S. submarine. Like the Thistlegorm in Egypt, the Nippo Maru holds a treasure trove of artifacts, including a tank and artillery guns
SUUNTO D4I NOVO COMPUTER
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on the deck, and holds packed with trucks, motorcycles, jeeps and ammunition, and you’ll be tailed by squadrons of barracuda, jacks and giant napoleon wrasse. The dive depth marks the end of the recreational limit, and some of the ship lies even deeper, so bottom time is short — the memory of this haunting wreck will last far longer.
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trukodyssey.com
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MICHAEL PATRICK O’NEILL
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TIGERS, HAMMERS, OCEANICS:
THE BAHAMAS IS KNOWN FOR AN ABUNDANCE OF APEX PREDATORS. STEADY YOUR NERVES, STRAP ON YOUR FINS AND JUMP IN.
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same most mornings. Head to the location where these long-finned wonders were last spotted. Apply a generous pour of menhaden oil overboard. Next, add handfuls of fish guts, preferably tuna or mahimahi. The tricky part comes while the mixture marinates, releasing juices. Wait. The clock may announce that only 15 minutes have passed. Perhaps two hours. You could be Oceanic whitetips mean heart-racing at sea all day and score nothing but a tan. But not likely. encounters in the waters of the Out Islands On our first day, 13 miles offshore of Columbus Point on the island’s southeast By BrOOKe mOrTOn tip, I hop in the water as a lone animal circles. One is easy. My eyes can easily t first I think nothing of My heart races in response, but I know to follow one. To truly gain an appreciation for this the open ocean below — suppress the feeling. These animals are and a bottom, invisible smart. Their sensors register the slightspecies, it’s best to encounter several at at 3,000 feet. Then est uptick in pulse. They’ve evolved to once; like pickpocket rings, they work one, then two ocewithstand the desertlike conditions of best in teams. While you’re entertained anic whitetips slide open water. Not many fish here. No reefs. by the two cruising in your sightline, the beneath my legs, grazing my fin tips. The only handouts, at least during their third sneaks behind, edging close enough Shark Alley off Nassau. Tiger Beach layover in these parts, come in to test your awareness. April and May when Stuart off Grand Bahama. These are dives where With that said, their body language is relaxed. Pectoyou’re grounded, literally and mentally, Cove’s Dive Bahamas bases by sand 40 and 20 feet deep, respectively. a boat and crew on island ral fins hang low and easy at Hawk’s Nest Resort. Out here, off the coast of Cat Island, the at their sides. Only if the IC N A fins lift to jut perpensharks approach from all angles. Chaos. The ritual is the S O C ET E T I P dicularly from their side I WH is there reason to legitimately fear this predator — but this never happens on my trip. Instead, it’s three days of attempting a meditation on calmness as these sharks — 13 feet in length — fin circles around and through the group of divers. Their yellow, glittering eyes are among the most beautiful things I’ve seen. When the chum raining down aligns with their gullet, a membrane skates across their irises as they thrust open their jaws, ready to receive. Just after a shark motors past is the most mesmerizing bit: Its cat-eye rolls back in your direction, continuing to track you. Sometimes we count seven as company. My insides edgy, I try to apply that first lesson of scuba diving: Just breathe, in and out, and appreciate the beautiful chaos all around. stuartcove.com 48 j u ly 2 0 1 4 | S P O R T D I V E R .C O M
AMANDA COTTON; OPPOSITE: DANIEL BOTELHO
OPEn-OCEan OPPORTunISTS
Only if the fins lift perpendicularly from their side is there reason to fear.
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Caribbean reef sharks cruise the Austin Smith looking for a free meal.
a WEllManaGED MElEE
A week in the Exuma Cays on the Aqua Cat culminates in a rollicking good shark feed
DAVID VALENCIA
By r e B e C Ca STrau S S
ivemaster Sarah 60 feet of water, and when we pull up, Dauphine counts the Caribbean reef sharks are already down from 10 as all circling — they know it’s lunchtime. 22 of us jump from After we take our places in a row along the moving Aqua Cat the gunwales of the boat, one of the diveinto the sea like lemmings, masters tows down a frozen chumsicle some of us from a platform 6 feet off the and attaches it via carabiner to a line on water (ahem). We make a negative entry the deck. There had already been two boats in the area that day, chumming and are immediately swept into the current of Wax Cut, a swift drift dive in the for their own shark feeds, so these guys Exuma Cays where the reef passes beare ready for the main course. At least 20 reef sharks, ranging from 2 to 5 feet low like scenery from a moving car. Soft corals and sea fans bend in the current long, swarm the frozen fish in an elaboas resolute reef fish turn to face it headrate underwater ballet. The sharks play on. The highlight comes at the end of the the lead roles, undulating around the bait dive, as we roll upon a group of at least 20 and grabbing chunks in turns; just as one nurse sharks, some over 8 feet long, nesplayer enters stage right, another takes tled together in groups of four and five in his leave stage left. Waiting in the wings the sandy sea grass that marks our exit is the supporting cast: A huge school of yellowtail snapper hovers below the point. Though not exactly startled, they nonetheless disband upon our disapsharks, sneaking a turn at the stage when pearance, fading sinuously into the blue they can; queen triggerfish and giganto nap in a quieter locale. tic Nassau grouper scarcely give way to Each dive is marked with something anyone; and runty black grouper hover in impressive to log — “Did you see the holds like understudies, awaitthat gigantic eagle ray?!” I ing their turn in the spotlight. ask my buddy at Parrotfish The entire thing is over in 40 Reef (he didn’t) — but minutes. As the pickings N you can feel anticipaget slim, the sharks drift BEA B I tion building for the off one by one to seek C A RR E E F marquee event: a shark their next meal, as do the KS R A feed on the Austin divers, who slowly ascend SH Smith wreck. The 90toward the Aqua Cat, and foot Bahamas Defense our own lunchtime buffet. Force cutter sits upright in aquacatcruises.com 50 j u ly 2 0 1 4 | S P O R T D I V E R .C O M
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KEEP CalM anD DIVE On
Separate fact from fiction at Tiger Beach with a predator whose fearsome reputation precedes it B y Ta n ya G . B u r n e T T & K e v i n Pa l m e r
Tiger Beach offers reliable sightings of these distinctive apex predators.
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e’re kneeling in the sand in 40 feet of water alongside a handful of other divers. Following our guide’s explicit instructions, we’re suited completely in black, including gloves, hoods, suits, masks, fins and BCs. It’s long been proved that most shark bites are accidents, and by eliminating any light-colored surfaces (similar to fish bodies), we hope to prevent any exploratory nibbles. We line up like lights on a runway and face into the current, eyes peeled for the distinctive squared-off nose, enormous dark eyes, oil-drum-size girth, and distinctive stripes of a tiger shark. Lemon and reef sharks haunt the same territory as the tigers, and usually respond first to the scent of bait, which drifts in minute quantities down-current. These sharks are fun to watch and know a good thing when they see it — but they also know the pecking order as soon as the tiger shows up. The divers know it too, and the mood changes immediately as all eyes lock onto the first powerful predator to enter the scene. As the lemon and reef sharks give way, the tiger shark glides slowly and deliberately toward the bait. Tigers have long had a particularly bad rap. “Garbage cans of the
ER TIG RKS SHA
food sources. A tiger appearance is possible on any dive in the area, but a sighting is most reliable here at Tiger Beach, an area of relatively shallow water, which allows loads of bottom time with no worries of decompression. We have been told that once one appears, others might show up, so in between shots of our star subject, we search for stripes emerging from the blue before being surprised by a reef shark sneaking overhead. But once the tiger shark appears, all else is forgotten. It’s just us, and our curiosity seems mutual,
right until the moment it shields its eyes with a nictitating membrane and gently bumps into the camera’s dome. Tigers learn their surroundings by testing, and a shiny, eyeball-like structure deserves some investigation. At times, the tiger sneaks up from behind, making one wish for eyes in the back of one’s head. After spotting one approaching, it quickly reroutes — eye contact is a confrontation everywhere in the animal kingdom. If it all sounds like a game of cat-and-mouse, it is, but not so much a hunt as a first date — each of us becoming more comfortable as the days go on. In the end, it is hard not to be smitten, leaving those shallow banks starryeyed and hoping for nothing so much as a second date with a new acquaintance. stuartcove.com
STEVE HINCZYNSKI
ocean,” “man-eaters” and “mindless killers” are but a few of the slurs hurled their way. That they can reach 18 feet in length does little to allay these fears. There is no doubt that this is an impressive and opportunistic predator, but doing a few dives with these strikingly marked sharks reveals a far more nuanced and intelligent animal. These sharks are common in this region of Grand Bahama due to its underwater topography: There is a plummeting drop-off near a shallow bank, so the sharks have a buffet of natural
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a FaCE Only a MOTHER COulD lOVE
The hammerheads of Bimini might be shy, but they’re no wallflowers
BRANDON COLE
B y Ta n ya G . B u r n e T T a n D K e v i n Pa l m e r
t’s obvious a hammerhead has pursuit of treasure, which in this case is shown up as we stand on the a milk crate emanating a fishy smell. For deck and look down through waa photographer, the shark seems small ter that seems more swimming in the fisheye lens of the camera’s viewpool than ocean. The silhouette finder, until the moment when suddenly of its distinctive head stands in marked the enormous animal is upon you as its contrast to the torpedolike shadows of curious eye glints in the dome port. The nurse and bull sharks, which have been shark’s (relatively) petite mouth opens circling for some time around the shark to expose perfectly triangular teeth, and wrangler. When our turn comes to dethen, performing an impossibly tight arc, scend, with cameras in tow, we make our it disappears into the blue distance as way across the bottom and take up a poquickly and silently as it came. sition near the bait as the bulls circle at This is not the free-for-all of a Caribbean-reef-shark feed, but rather a respectful distance. Great hammerhead sightings are rare a studiously conducted reconnaissance in the wild, and even then, the shy sharks mission, executed by a calm and inquisitive creature seeking the source are likely a distant glimpse. Only recentof its stimulation. And the recon misly has there been a reliable opportunity to interact with these creatures close up sions only get better. Over several days, in the shallow waters around Bimini — groups of up to 10 sharks appear, each which makes it that much more thrilling. with a unique personality. When sharks The shark’s form takes shape as it this powerful appear from every direcemerges from the blue and, unexpecttion in these kinds of numbers, while edly, it is the enormous dorsal fin that coming so close that you must steer their bony heads away with your stands out first. The distance from camera housing, you’re left the shark’s belly to dorsal tip with an indelible memory is more than 3 feet and is that you won’t forget. followed by an equally As a diver, one can only impressive tail, sweepAD E H hope to have the expeing methodically in the R ME KS M rience again and that current. The iconic, R A H SHA these shy animals conflattened mallet-shaped tinue to believe that we head swings gently are worth investigating. across the sandy bottom like a metal detector in biggameclubbimini.com 54 j u ly 2 0 1 4 | S P O R T D I V E R .C O M
Although generally shy, Bimini hammerheads curiously investigate the camera’s dome port.
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IN THIS INDONESIAN NEIGHBORHOOD, MUCKING ABOUT UNCOVERS SOME PRETTY WEIRD CHARACTERS
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Lembeh’s dive guides are worldrenowned for finding critters: This paddleflap rhinopias glows in a guide’s spotlight. Below: Jewel-like tiger shrimp used to be called Nus shrimp after one of Lembeh’s famous guides. Opposite: A guide fanned some sand away to reveal a reticulate stargazer.
TEXT AND PHOTOS BY ALEX MUSTARD
embeh doesn’t look promising when we arrive at the rustic dock, fresh from the busy streets of Bitung in North Sulawesi, Indonesia. The waters may be calm, but they are not the crystal blue that I usually associate with tropical diving. The first few minutes of our first dive are dubious: The visibility is more akin to a murky lake back home, and the landscape, at this typical site, consists only of mud. Then our guide pings his tank with his metal wand and conjures up the first of many wonders that make diving here so addictive. Lembeh dives are not about scenery but subjects — warty frogfish, seahorses, mimic octopuses, devil scorpionfish, ornate ghost pipefish, blue ring octopuses and nudibranchs galore. Divers regularly come out of the water laughing after experiencing such an embarrassment of riches. These fabulous macro subjects are known as critters, and it is no surprise that Lembeh Strait, a 10-mile stretch of sheltered water, is a true mecca for aquatic photographers who appreciate the smaller things in life. J U LY 2 0 1 4 | S P O R T D I V E R .C O M 57
FACES LEMBEH
Clockwise: life on the open sand is an eat-or-beeaten world. A hairy frogfish waves its distinctive worm-shaped lure to entice prey into striking range; frogfish engulf their victims with a lightning-fast 6-millisecond strike. Opposite from top: A pink-eared mantis shrimp checks that
the coast is clear before emerging from its burrow; a veined octopus opens the clamshell trapdoor that secures its burrow; a flamboyant cuttlefish shows off its exotic colors, a warning that it’s poisonous to predators.
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Divers Day Off Photogenic subjects aren’t limited to the underwater realm in Lembeh; natural and cultural beauty will lure you away from the muck.
Day 2
The Minahasa people make their home in North Sulawesi, and a day tour into the highlands allows visitors to see more of their culture. Highlights include watching traditional housing construction in Woloan, learning local pottery techniques and weaving, and a visit to the fower and food market in Tomohon.
Day 1
Tangkoko National Park is not far from the northern end of lembeh Strait. The reserve helps to protect at least 127 mammal species, but most people come in the evening to see the nocturnal tarsier. This spectral animal is one of the world’s smallest primates at less than 6 inches, but its adorable, huge eyes are the largest in relation to body weight of any mammal.
Day 3
Tangkoko is well worth a visit in the middle of the day for the crested black macaque. Its curious nature — combined with expressive faces and character-flled orange-brown eyes — leaves visitors feeling that they’ve experienced a meeting of minds. Wear long sleeves and pants to protect from insect bites, and take a waterproof bag for your camera.
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FACES Sof EH LEMBEH
Hidden in plain sight. A pair of giant frogfish, each as large as a volleyball, perch on sponges, where their unusual shape and coloration allows them to blend in perfectly. The strait has a mix of habitats from coral reefs to pure black volcanic sand.
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Muck PhOtO tiPs Get to know your critters. When the guide points at a furry lump of rock, you want to know it’s an amazingly camoufaged hairy frogfsh. learning about the animals helps in many ways, from knowing what special adaptations your subject has to whether there may be another one nearby, or simply, with some of the stranger critters, which end is the head. It all helps in your images.
become a GooD muck Diver. When you stir up the sand, it will either ruin your photos or ruin your evening as you are forced to Photoshop all the backscatter out. Also get in the habit of sharing subjects with your buddies, whether they have a camera or not. I love watching other people shooting critters while I wait my turn; it gives me ideas for my shots, and on many occasions, has allowed me to spot a mistake I was about to make.
Focus on the backGrounD. In lembeh, it’s a given that you’ll see fantastically photogenic subjects, so make your photographic focus the background. Blotchy sand isn’t the most complementary, so try to get the camera low to frame subjects against open water, for a clean black or blue backdrop. When that’s not possible, consider opening up the camera’s aperture to blur the background detail so the subject pops out. If all else fails, go for a super close-up, where the subject flls the entire frame.
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FACES Sof EH LEMBEH
Attractions in Lembeh come in many shapes and sizes: A tiny emperor shrimp hitches a ride with a T-bar nudibranch as it moves across the open sand. Opposite, clockwise from bottom: The eye detail of a painted stingfish; a male Denise’s pygmy seahorse hides among the branches of a sea fan; a pink rhinopias waddles across a sandy slope.
DIVERS GUIDE TO LEMBEH Average water temp 78 to 83 F » What to wear fullsuit, 3 mm or 5 mm » Average viz 10 to 40 feet » When to go year-round; the driest weather is from July to October » For more information, go to sportdiver.com/indonesia SU LAWE S I
DON’T MISS DIVES TK (Teluk Kembahu) Muck sites don’t have much scenery, as the critters come and go; the best spots vary week to week. But the sheltered bay at TK always delivers, with several species of frogfsh, several types of octopuses, seahorses, stargazers and much more.
Nudi Falls One of the classics, Nudi Falls ofers a mix of habitats, which means lots of diferent critters — pygmy seahorses are almost always in residence. The site earned its name because there are so many sea slugs on the wall that divers’ bubbles can knock them of, causing it to rain nudis.
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Sarena Besar This rubble and white-sand slope, with patches of reef in the shallows and deeper, is a great spot for smaller invertebrate critters, including harlequin shrimp, boxer crabs, blue-ring octopuses and long-nose shrimp. They’re the perfect foil for their black-sand habitats.
Teluk Kembahu Nudi Falls
NORTH SU LAWE S I
Bitung
LE M B E H
Sarena Besar
J u ly 2 0 1 4 | S P O R T D I V E R .C O M 63
SD 07/14
Dragons, great whites, lions and manta rays: the most charismatic megafauna the seven continents have to offer BY B RO O K E M O RT O N
Lovable land animals like kangaroos complement the big animals found underwater in some of our favorite dive destinations.
KEEP LEARNING
PADI Underwater Naturalist Course 64 J U LY 2 0 1 4 | S P O R T D I V E R .C O M
Going on safari (land or sea) is much more interesting if you can identify the animals you see and how they interact with their environment. In the Underwater Naturalist course, you’ll learn about both of the major aquatic-life groupings, and the role of aquatic plants. padi.com
DIVE THE THE LARGEST ARTIFICIAL REEF IN THE WORLD!
1
AUSTRALIA
MINKE WHALES AND KANGAROOS
“Take only pictures, leave only bubbles.”
Photo: VisitPensacola.com
Turns out the spotter planes were never necessary. When Mike Ball Dive Expeditions’ M/V Spoilsport first began cruising Australia’s Great Barrier Reef in search of dwarf minke whales 19 years ago, the staff assumed they’d need help. Instead, a whale slowly edged in, targeting the boat like a bull’s-eye. “They are as interested in us as we are in them,” says proprietor Mike Ball of these 26-foot whales. The sighting season is June and July; whales typically approach the boat in pairs or threesomes, and stay around 90 minutes. Trips span three, four or seven nights, all returning to Cairns. From this port town, it’s an eight-hour drive to the Cape Hillsborough National Park, where visitors can interact with kangaroos on a massive packed-sand beach. Less scenic but also less of a drive — 22 minutes north of Cairns — Kewarra Beach certainly has its share of ’roos. As is true for most of rural Queensland, you don’t need a guide, binoculars or much of anything to spot these charismatic jumpers. mikeball.com
USS Oriskany is the largest artifcial reef in the world and one of the most popular wrecks in the United States. Explore Oriskany and 11 other shipwrecks on the Florida Panhandle Shipwreck Trail.
FloridaPanhandleDiveTrail.com
2
FLORIDA
OPPOSITE: BLICKWINKEL/ALAMY
MANATEES AND GATORS The coldest days of January and February see the most manatees huddled together at sites such as Three Sisters Spring on Crystal River, just outside Tampa. There’s no diving — only snorkeling — with these potatoshaped sweethearts, but the encounters last as long as your cold-water tolerance does. Go early for the biggest numbers. These big softies crave human interaction, and like a beloved dog, roll over for a belly scratch. Whereas manatees approach people, alligators, especially young ones, do the opposite. Head 90 minutes south to canoe or kayak the Hillsborough River in Thonotosassa. Even on a cold day in January, these prehistoric-looking beasts, just like the manatees, can’t help but seek heat; in their case, it means sunning on a wide log. birdsunderwater.com; canoeescape.com J U LY 2 0 1 4 | S P O R T D I V E R .C O M 65
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Visit www.sportdiver.com/freeinfo for DIRECT ACCESS to each Advertiser’s website and free information
AtlAntic, cAribbeAn And lAtin AmericA 1. Barefoot Cay Resort Roatan- luxury boutique resort with beachfront bungalows & villas, gourmet dining, spa. 5-Star IDC Center Barefoot Divers. Page 30 2. Buddy Dive Resort Experience an unspoiled natural paradise offering spectacular sunsets, gentle breezes and crystal-clear turquoise waters. Page 69 3. Caradonna Dive Adventures Bonaire Divers consider Bonaire to be one of the most spectacular dive destinations in the world. Page 31 4. Cayman Islands Department of Tourism “Only 1 hour and 10 minutes from Miami - fly in the morning, beach in the afternoon!” Page 7 5. CoCo View Resort The most returned to dive resort in the world! The best in boat and unlimited shore diving. Page 30 6. Deep Blue Resort Utila – Oceanfront dedicated dive resort with unlimited shore diving, Utila, undiscovered jewel of the Caribbean. Page 30 7. Dive Provo Providenciales, Turks & Caicos Tropical scuba diving at its best. Novice through experienced divers welcome. Page 72 8. Honduras Institute of Tourism Honduras offers reefs, beaches, natural adventures, colonial cities including the Maya ruins of Copan and the Bay islands. Page 30 9. InDepth Watersports Grand Cayman Adventure diving on one-of-a-kind converted Navy Seal RIB; expert training from resort to CCR trimix. Page 70 10. Oasis Divers Turks and Caicos - Small groups of divers are taken on our four dive boats to the spectacular dive sites surrounding Grand Turk. Page 72
11. Stuart Cove’s Dive Bahamas So much more than Sharks! Walls, Reefs, Wrecks, Movie Sites & Sharks We have 17 wrecks! Page 17 12. Sunset House Resort & Sunset Divers Grand Cayman - Beautifully renovated rooms, walking distance to George Town, meal packages, new dive shop, Cathy Church Photo. Page 69 900. All in Atlantic, Caribbean and Latin America Category
905. All in Instruction/Training Category
live-AboArdS 20. Four Seasons Explorer A floating PADI 5-Star Dive Centre with Nitrox, the 11-berth live-aboard sails to virgin dive sites for an incomparable experience. Page 16 21. Truk Odyssey Dive with Odyssey to see the ghost fleet of Truk lagoon. Page 73
editoriAlly FeAtUred 150. Aeris 25
151. Aqua lung 23,41
152. Backscatter 33
153. Cressi 25,26
154. Scubapro 26,38
United StAteS 13. Florida Keys and Key West The 120 miles of beautiful islands that you can drive to just off the coast of Southern Florida. Page 15 14. Panhandle Shipwreck Trail The Florida Panhandle Shipwreck Trail consists of 12 unique shipwrecks along Florida’s Panhandle. Page 65
cAmpS/eventS 15. PADI ScubaEarth Join the evolution at ScubaEarth.com Page 8 16. Project AWARE Foundation Protect our ocean planet - one dive at a time with Project AWARE. Page 21 904. All in Camps/Events Category
inStrUction/trAining 17. The Ocean Corporation Offering commercial diver training, under water welding, ROVs and NDT weld inspector training since 1969. Page 75 18. PADI ConEd Continue your education with PADI Advanced Open Water, Rescue Diver, and Enriched Air Diver. Page 2 19. PADI Replacement Cards Order your PADI limited Edition Replacement Certification Card today! Page 71
photogrAphy/video 22. Backscatter East & West Underwater Video and Photo Backscatter East & West now has 2 locations and the most experienced staff to serve your underwater imaging needs. Page 73 23. Ikelite Manufacturer of underwater camera housings, strobes, mounting arms and flashlights. Page 27 24. Polar Pro Filters Designed specifically for the Scuba Diving market, Polar Pro Filters instantly improve underwater video colors for GoPro® cameras. Page 65 25. Sealife Underwater cameras and accessories to help you explore the underwater world. Page 34, 35 26. Ultralight Control Systems Manufacturers of trays and arms for your cameras, lights and strobes for digital, video or film. Page 72 908. All in Photography/Video
ScUbA AcceSSorieS 27. Citizen Watch Company of America Discover Citizen’s outstanding collection of dive watches and dive computers, including the incomparable Cyber Aqualand Nx. Page 5
155. Sherwood 24
156. Subgear 25,37,39
157. Suunto 45
158. Zeagle 24
909. All Scuba Accessories
ScUbA eqUipment 29. Aeris Aeris products are recognized for smart design, outstanding performance, user-friendly features, and intuitive operation. Page 13 30. Atomic Aquatics Before Atomic, there was no “Best” in scuba diving. Page 3 31. Cressi A company close to its Italian sealoving heritage providing superior designs for discriminating divers. Page 11 32. Mares Full line diving manufacturer of innovative and technologically advanced dive gear. Page 19 910. All Scuba Equipment
28. PADI Gear The Official Branded Merchandise of PADI. Page 22
J U ly 2 0 1 4 | S P O R T D I V E R .C O M 67
World’s Best Dives
3
GaLaPaGoS
HaMMerHeads and blUe-Footed boobies Elsewhere in the world, hammerheads are so elusive, it doesn’t matter how you respond — you’ll soon see nothing but tail. In the Galapagos Islands, there’s protocol. Wayne Hasson, president of Aggressor Fleet, explains that divers are briefed to nestle motionless behind rock outcroppings, protected from current. “The hammerheads come within touching distance,” he says,
5
anTarcTIca
leoPard seals and Gentoo PenGUins
4
BeLIZe
WHale sHarKs and HoWler MonKeYs At Gladden Spit, 22 miles off the coast of Placencia, divers circle up and release bubble streams from regulators. The free-flows simulate cubera snapper spawn, luring in whale sharks for a closer view. Shark season extends March through June, but year-round in the country’s interior, jungle hikes give glimpses of fauna such as howler monkeys and keel-billed toucans. Hurricanes Stan and Wilma in 2005 knocked free much of the canopy that was monkey habitat, but it’s on the mend. At Ian Anderson’s Caves Branch Jungle Lodge, the booming growls of the tree sprites are proof indeed of forest regeneration. splashbelize.com; cavesbranch.com 68 J u ly 2 0 1 4 | S P O R T D I V E R .C O M
not that he’s advocating contact. The remote islands of Wolf and Darwin see schools in the hundreds. Silky and Galapagos sharks, averaging 12 to 15 feet, also approach divers. Whale sharks are regulars. “I’ve been in the middle of five,” Hasson says, “wondering how to fit more than two in the camera frame.” Off-gassing time is spent motoring between the rocky coastline where blue-footed boobies, penguins, marine iguanas and Galapagos sea lions nest. The land animals are unafraid of humans, and don’t mind how you behave either, making it easy to nab a close-up. aggressor.com
Icebergs seemed designed for comedy. Watch any animal, be it Gentoo penguin or leopard seal, navigate above the water: They slip, waddle and slide. Only in the water do they find grace again. The M/V Polar Pioneer targets the rookeries and pods of the Antarctic Peninsula, with two dives a day. In between, Zodiacs ferry between the ice patches for more encounters. Although mid-dive sightings are possible, it’s during these mini excursions that seeing a humpback, orca or minke whale is much more likely. diveadventures.com
6
VancouVer
Paul Souder; oPPoSite, From toP: PhilliP Colla; Joanne WeSton/alamy; miChael S. nolan/ageFotoStoCk
sea lions, orcas and bears Dive Hornby Island in February, and you might believe you’re incredibly lucky. Michelle Blais, manager of Rowands Reef dive shop in Vancouver, five hours south by car, says that sea lions are common yearround, but the second month makes orca and humpback sightings likely. On several occasions, she hasn’t even made it to the day’s dive site before flapping tails break the surface. “We’ve seen a family of orcas fishing for herring; that was rare — even the boat captain was surprised,” she says. To meet the big attractions on land, namely the black bears, a summer visit is preferable. rowandsreef.com
7
Kona
Mantas and birds The sighting rate at Kona’s famous manta site, Garden Eel Cove, is 85 percent. Last summer, 42 mantas appeared on one dip, setting a new record. Stay awhile, says Keller Laros, instructor for Jack’s Diving Locker, and you learn to identify them individually. “Everyone knows Lefty,” he says of the easiest to ID — her left fin curves up toward her face. It’s the same sort of buzz one gets from treading rainforest or ranch, binoculars in hand. Getting to know Hawaii’s birds by their red mask and neon-yellow chest is much like the manta dive. First, the instructor points out who you’ve just met; after, it’s altogether more pleasing when you make a positive ID on your own. sunquest-hawaii.com; jacksdivinglocker.com; hawaii-forest.com J u ly 2 0 1 4 | S P O R T D I V E R .C O M 69
World’s Best Dives
8
SouTH aFrIca
Great WHites and lions It’s chaos at its purest and most beautiful. Every May through July, millions of sardines writhe a course along South Africa’s east coast. This sardine-nado is a moving buffet where great white, hammerhead, bull and copper sharks, and bottlenose dolphins cut the line, gulping as much as their entry ticket allows. Farther east on the Mozambique border is Kruger National Park; if you’re ballsy enough to go nose to nose with so many sharks, why not continue to chase adrenalin? At Olifants Rest Camp, trade four wheels for two, and mountain-bike your way through hippo, elephant and lion territory. sardinerun.com; southafrica.net
10
coSTa rIca
9
InDoneSIa
Manta raYs and KoModo draGons At Manta Sandy, divers kneel in the white sand and watch as a manta show commences overhead. “So many different behaviors can be observed: cleaning, feeding, jumping clear out of the water, and sometimes manta trains where a large female leads males on a wild chase,” says Debbie Arriaga, the M/V Arenui’s cruise director. On day seven of the Bali-to-Labuanajo itinerary, guests disembark on Komodo or Rinca Island, home to komodo dragons spanning up to 10 feet. The dragon might not possess the grace that mantas do, but its lumbering swagger holds its own appeal — in a Sopranos mob boss sort of way. thearenui.com 70 J u ly 2 0 1 4 | S P O R T D I V E R .C O M
It’s perhaps the most stirring encounter one can have on a beach: Witness a 2,000-pound leatherback turtle fin its way up past the waterline, scoop loose a nest from the sand, and deposit hundreds of rubbery eggs — and just try not to tear up. This massive species breeds on both coasts of Costa Rica. From October to May on the northern Pacific side, Las Baulas National Park in the province of Guanacaste is a sure bet to see the laying process. Divers can also log time with manta rays on this coast. Ocotal Beach Resort and Hotel targets the Bat Islands to see the biggest manta species: the giant Pacific. Spot one, and with it, hundreds of smaller devil rays. Whether it’s their fluid beauty or the presence of so many, it’s another encounter when you might find yourself choking back emotion. Don’t worry — there’s nothing weak about being swept up by one of nature’s most amazing underwater displays. ocotalresort.com
From toP: denniS donohue/thinkStoCk; daVid Fleetham/ageFotoStoCk
Giant oceanic Mantas and leatHerbacK tUrtles
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LANAI, HAWAII
Hawaiian Rafting Adventures/ Dive Maui goscubadivemaui.com
LEMBEH
RED SEA, EGYPT Red Sea Aggressor aggressor.com
TUBBATAHA, PHILIPPINES Aqua Cat aquacatcruises.com Bimini Big Game Club biggameclubbimini.com Stuart Coveテ不 Dive Bahamas stuartcove.com
JUPITER, FLORIDA
Jupiter Dive Center* jupiterdivecenter.com
RIVIERA MAYA, MEXICO Phocea Mexico* phoceamexico.com
S/Y Philippine Siren sirenfleet.com
BONAIRE
Buddy Dive* buddydive.com
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sportdiver.com/palau
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RAJA AMPAT, INDONESIA
papuanewguinea.travel
Arenui thearenui.com
KEY LARGO, FLORIDA
TRUK LAGOON, CHUUK
Horizon Divers* horizondivers.com
Truk Odyssey trukodyssey.com
BITUNG, NORTH SULAWESI Two Fish Divers* twofishdivers.com
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PADI Retailer Partner Program United States ARIZONA Alexander’s Dive Shop Too (Nogales) 520-287-5103 • divetoo.com Saguaro Scuba (Mesa) 877-837-7637 • www.saguaroscuba.com CALIFORNIA Fisheye Scuba (Folsom) 916-850-1145 • www.fisheyescuba.com F LO R I DA Crystal Lodge Dive Center (Crystal River) 352-795-6798 • manatee-central.com Dive Locker Of Panama City Beach (Panama City Beach) 850-230-8006 • divelocker.net Diver’s Den (Panama City Beach) 850-234-8717 • diversdenpcb.com Jupiter Dive Center (Jupiter) 561-745-7807 • jupiterdivecenter.com Pompano Dive Center (Pompano Beach) 954-788-0208 • pompanodivecenter.com Sea Experience (Ft. Lauderdale) 954-770-DIVE (3483) • divefortlauderdale.com Stuart Dive Shop (Stuart) 772-600-8288 • www.stuartscuba.com H AWA I I Lahaina Divers (Lahaina) 808-667-7496 • lahainadivers.com The Honolulu Scuba Company (Honolulu) 808-220-0577 • honoluluscubacompany.com MICHIGAN Sea The World Scuba Center (Farmington Hills) 248-478-6400 • seatheworld.us MISSISSIPPI Round Island Divers ( Pascagoula) 228-938-2998 • roundislanddivers.com MISSOURI Bonne Terre Mine/West End Diving (Bridgeton) 888-843-3483 • 2dive.com NEW JERSEY American Diving Supply (Northfield) 609-646-5090 • americandivingsupply.com The Dive Shop (Cherry Hill) 856-751-0308 • thediveshopnj.com
N E W YO R K Dip ‘N Dive (Buffalo) 716-837-3483 • dipanddive.com Hampton Dive Center (Riverhead) 631-727-7578 • www.hamptondive.com Pan Aqua Diving (New York) 212-736-3483 • panaqua.com Pisces School Of Dive (East Rochester) 585-381-2842 • piscesdivers.com Seascapes USA (Syosset) 516-433-7757 • seascapesusa.com Stingray Divers (Brooklyn) 718-384-1280 • stingraydivers.com NORTH CAROLINA Bermuda Triangle Scuba (Asheville) 828-252-8707 • www.24scuba.com Triad Divers Supply (Highpoint) 336-886-8808 • www.triaddivers.net P E N N S Y LVA N I A A Water Odyssey Scuba (Williamsport) 570-326-2091 • awaterodysseyscuba.com VIRGINIA Virginia Scuba (Manassas) 703-369-0098 • www.virginiascuba.com WISCONSIN Aqua Center of Green Bay, Inc. (Green Bay) 920-468-8080 • www.aquacntr.com WA S H I N G T O N , D . C . Blue Planet Scuba (Washington, DC) 202-527-9419 • www.blueplanetdc.com
International BAHAMAS Stuart Cove’s Dive South Ocean (Nassau) 800-879-9832 • www.stuartcove.com C A N A DA Caribbean Dreams Diving (Calgary) 403-228-5756 • www.caribbeandreams.ca Langley Diving (Langley) 604-514-8190 • langleydiving.com C AY M A N I S L A N D S Eden Rock Diving Center (George Town) 345-949-7243 • www.edenrockdive.com
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J U ly 2 0 1 4 | S P O R T D I V E R .C O M 73
Behind the Shot
FOR MOR E T IPS ON U N DERWAT ER PHOTOGR A PH Y V ISI T S PORT DI V E R .COM
Clean as a Whistle Blue triggerfish (Pseudobalistes fuscus) are common in the Red Sea, but when I saw this one totally absorbed by the cleaner wrasse darting in and out of its gills, I was able to get in close enough for an unusual, abstract shot.
Photo and text by Debi Henshaw CAMERA Nikon D300s // HOUSING Nauticam NA-D300s // LENS Nikkor 60mm // STROBES None; magic filter SETTINGS f/7.1, 1/100 sec, ISO 200
SD 07/14
Sport Diver (ISSN 1077-985X) is published 10 times per year (J/F, March, April, May, June, July, Aug., Sept., Oct., N/D) by Bonnier Corp., 460 N. Orlando Ave., Suite 200, Winter Park, FL 32789. Basic rate $19.97 for one year. (Canada residents please add $12 per year for postage; all other foreign residents please add $24 for postage, U.S. funds only.) Periodicals postage paid at Winter Park, FL, and additional ofces. Contents copyright 2014 by Bonnier Corp. For subscription information or questions, email pdsmember@ emailcustomerservice.com. Contributions: Editorial comments, articles, photography or artwork should be addressed to Editor, Sport Diver, P.O. Box 8500, Winter Park, FL 32790. The editorial staf can also be reached via the Internet by addressing electronic mail to editor@sportdiver.com. Not responsible for solicited or unsolicited material. Advertisers: UPS and overnight delivery to 460 N. Orlando Ave, Suite 200, Winter Park, FL 32789. Information and media kits are available by calling 407-628-4802. The contents of this publication, including diving techniques and use of diving equipment, reflect the individual experiences of the writers and are not necessarily the recommended practices of Bonnier Corp. and are not intended for the sole purpose of diving instruction. Individuals seeking to participate in activities described in this publication should be properly trained and/or certified for such by a qualified professional diving instructor. Diving or use of diving equipment by untrained individuals can lead to serious injury or death. Neither Bonnier Corp., Sport Diver magazine nor its contributors shall be liable for any mishap claimed to result from use of such material. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Sport Diver magazine, P.O. Box 420235, Palm Coast, FL 32142-0235. CANADA POST: Publications Mail Agreement Number: 40612608. Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: IMEX Global Solutions, P.O. Box 25542, London, ON N6C 6B2. Printed in the USA.
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