THE SPECTRUM VOL. 69 NO. 07 | SEPTEMBER 19, 2019
THE INDEPENDENT STUDENT PUBLICATION OF THE UNIVERSITY AT BUFFALO, SINCE 1950
Passion over Profession: Jasmine To
> SEE PAGE 2
Students who use wheelchairs express accessibility concerns despite UB’s remediations BRITTANY GORNY SENIOR NEWS EDITOR
Emily Tout had a problem with her class in Norton Hall last semester. She couldn’t get into the nearest bathroom. Tout uses a wheelchair. She had to ask a friend to carry her from the hallway, into the stall, to the sink and then back out to her wheelchair. She roamed around the building looking for an accessible bathroom before resorting to the “embarrassing” tactic. Connor Gow, who has been paralyzed from the waist down since September 2014, had to balance his laptop on his lap for three-hour stretches in Capen Hall last semester. His classroom didn’t have an accessible table. Zachary Dickman missed class his first semester because he could not open the classroom door. His classroom lacked an accessible button and he couldn’t get the attention of anyone inside. He said UB’s plan for him to go into a “safe room” or a stairwell, and call University Police seems unsafe.” “If there was an actual emergency I don’t know what I would do, because if someone were to carry me down the stairs in an emergency situation they would probably break every bone in my body.” These students are frustrated and say UB is not doing enough to accommodate them on campus or assure their safety. About 1,000 students with disabilities registered with the accessibility office last academic year, according to Randall Borst, director of Accessibility Resources. But that number doesn’t include the many students with disabilities who attend UB but don’t alert his office, he said. Nationally, one in every 11 full-time college students reported having a disability. Fifteen years ago, three UB students filed a lawsuit against UB and SUNY for accessibility issues and violation of both the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) and Section 504 of the Rehabilitation Act of 1973. UB settled the case in
2004 and has spent $15.3 million to make the campuses more accessible, remediating 75% of the issues highlighted in the audit, according to Rhonda Ransom, a project manager of Facilities Design and Construction. Some students say it isn’t enough. “If UB made an effort to make things more accessible, it would literally change my life,” Tout said. “Even if UB acknowledged they’re not accessible, I want an honest heartfelt apology. They can’t just ignore it.” Students with disabilities list other problems: being denied entry on campus buses and shuttles, construction workers removing and reinstalling accessible buttons, employees sometimes failing to completely shovel ramps covered in snow. “UB has the means, the equipment and the employees to fix a door-control-activation button,” Tout said. “People are hired to do that. They’re just not doing it.” Sharon Nolan-Weiss, the director of the Office of Equity, Diversity and Inclusion, said she is aware UB is not 100% compliant with ADA standards and said UB has been remediating accessibility over the years to meet standards. “We have some of those old buildings where we’ll provide accessibility into major areas but it may not be 100% up to ADA standards because of when the building was built,” Nolan-Weiss said. She said UB did a lot of work after the audit in terms of curb cut, signage and retrofitting entrances by making them bigger and adding accessible push plates. UB spokesperson John DellaContrada said in a statement that UB “is committed to ensuring that its programs, activities, services, and facilities are accessible to everyone. Anyone with an accessibility concern is encouraged to report the situation to the University’s Office of Equity, Diversity and Inclusion.”
UBSPECTRUM
Where Germany meets Buffalo
Hairspray
>>SEE SEEPAGE PAGE8
> SEE PAGE 6
Graduate student emily tout has attended uB since 2014, But only attended in a wheelchair since 2018. she finds GettinG around uB “very difficult.” courtesy of emily tout
to architects not considering accessibility when designing buildings. “I didn’t think about using the accessible stall when I had full mobility or if the push plates worked or how to get to and from classes,” Tout said. She said getting around UB is “very difficult.” Some buildings on campus have broken The students Tout, a graduate social work and law accessible door control buttons. Some of student, has attended UB since 2014, but them have plates missing. Tout said she has attended in a wheelchair since 2018. brought this to UB’s attention and AccesShe used a cane for eight months before sibility Resources told her to call when she becoming paralyzed from the waist-down encounters a button not working. “When there’s 10 [broken buttons] each after a brain and spine surgery. day I don’t have the time to call and tell Tout said there are “a lot of issues” with accessibility on campus. She attributed it exactly what hallway and building,” Tout said. “It shouldn’t be on me to make things accessible bethe classrooms in o’Brian hall have the accessiBle seatinG at cause I have the disability.” the Bottom of a fliGht of stairs with no accessiBle entrance at Nolan-Weiss said she alerts the Bottom of the lecture halls. University Facilities when stuPhoto By BenJamin Blanchet | the sPectrum dents come to her with complaints about door malfunctions. “If someone came to me and said a door’s not working, I would submit a work order so the student doesn’t have to and then follow up and ask if it’s fixed,” Nolan-Weiss said. Today, students say Michael Hall and Sherman Hall on South Campus and Norton Hall on North Campus don’t have accessible bathrooms. This leads students with disabilities to travel to different buildings to use a restroom.
Tout, Dickman and Gow said some bathrooms with the accessible sign on the door are not accessible, like on the second and tenth floors of Furnas Hall. “I’m using a child-sized wheelchair and my child-sized wheelchair doesn’t fit in there, so that’s clearly not accessible,” Tout said. “Sometimes I’ll have to go into another building to find a bathroom to use because the doors are too small and I can’t get all the way in there,” Gow, a graduate social work student, said. Nolan-Weiss said not having accessible bathrooms adjacent to classrooms would be considered unequal program access and an immediate change would need to be made. Tout recounted a time she had to wait for a bus on campus for over 45 minutes because three different drivers would not let her on their buses. “I’ve had bus drivers tell me I couldn’t get on the bus, because they either didn’t know how to put the straps on to strap my wheelchair in place or didn’t feel physically able,” Tout said. Dickman, a graduate chemical engineering student, experienced a similar situation, and said he, too, has been denied entrance on a campus bus. “I had a driver who wasn’t sure how to strap my wheelchair down, and if the bus is getting full I always have to wait,” Dickman said. Nolan-Weiss said she would “expect” the bus drivers to be able to know how to > SEE ACCESSIBILITY | PAGE 4
2 | Thursday, September 19, 2019
FEATURES
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Passion over profession Student artist takes her future into her own hands JULIAN ROBERTS-GRMELA ASST. FEATURES EDITOR
Jasmine To –– a junior psychology major –– left her paints at home to take classes for two years. She wanted to pave her way toward a practical, financially-responsible career. Now, she realizes she’s been working toward a future that she didn’t choose for herself. For the past ten years, To has been an active visual artist ––– now painting portraits of prominent musicians. She’s known that art is her passion for a long time but says her parents discouraged her from making it her career, which is why she pursued a psychology degree at UB this year. Now, living alone for the first time and after recently celebrating her first art show, the 19-year-old transfer student realized she can’t allow others to determine her future for her. To’s interest in visual art began ten years ago when she first used sketchbooks, building up her skills in art classes. About four years ago, To began experimenting with paints –– something she hadn’t really tried in the past. Painting is now To’s preferred medium and she specializes in portraits. “It’s very calming, very therapeutic,” To said. “I feel like I wouldn’t be who I am today without art.” After high school, To attended Hudson Valley Community College as a commuter from her hometown in Colonie, NY. At Hudson Valley, To searched for a career that she found interesting and her parents approved of. She found interest in a psychology class, and decided she might as well major in it. Even though To enjoyed her first class, she didn’t love being a psychology major. “I’m not really like a school type of person, so I wasn’t very happy in my classes,” To said. “I just felt like I was doing it for my mom and not for me.” Still, To went forward with her decision –– albeit dispassionately –– and continued in the direction of a career in psychology. And then she moved to Buffalo. Coming to UB marked the first time To lived away from her family. With a newfound independence, To realized her aspirations carry more weight than others’ and decided she needed to make a change. “I’m here for a reason,” To said. “Why should I waste my time? I’m all the way out here in Buffalo. I should be doing something that makes me happy, not doing what my mom wants me to do.” And To began the process of switching majors.
Jasmine To poses with her paintings Courtesy of Jasneal Pabla
Jaclyn Dickson –– a sophomore biology major and To’s roommate –– supports To’s decision to explore options in a career that really interests her. “This university provides so many choices for students to really explore the exact type of work that they wish to do,” Dickson said. “It would be a waste not to take advantage of that.” But To says her mother is opposed to the idea and she’s worried her family may refuse to support her during school.
To says her mother thought art should remain a hobby, otherwise she would face financial struggles. “My parents expected me to become a doctor, or like a pharmacist, somewhere in the science field,” To said. “My mom supports [my interest in art] but she wasn’t supportive enough for me to pursue it as a career.” Still, she remains dedicated to her decision. “My mom still doesn’t support it. I don’t
want to force her to either,” To said. “If she doesn’t want me to then I’ll just take out student loans and pay for it myself.” Whitney Kendricks –– To’s cousin and oldest friend –– can vouch for To’s passion. “When you think of Jasmine you think art,” Kendricks said. “Whenever I [went] to her house, she would always just play music and be painting. She would always have a project.” But for To, painting isn’t just a hobby; she sells paintings to help support herself. Portrait of Jasmine To In addition to her on-sale collecPhoto By Gordon Myers | The Spectrum tion –– which are showcased and can be purchased on To’s Instagram, @_artbyjas –– To also offers customized paintings that are made to order. Right now, her most expensive piece –– a portrait of Tupac Shakur and Biggie Smalls –– is on the market for $1,100. And her dedication has paid off. She recently had five of her pieces exhibited in an art show in her hometown for the first time last Saturday. For To, majoring in art doesn’t mean she plans to be a professional artist. She hopes to finish her psychology degree and is considering pursuing art therapy. All she knows for certain is that art holds a crucial role in her longterm plans. “I just know I want art to be in my life, instead of just having it on the side,” To said. “I have a better vision of what I want to do.” Email: julian.grmela@ubspectrum.com Twitter: @GrmelaJulian
OPINION
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Dining hall blues salad bar. To the untrained eye, UB does a phenomenal job providing for students with dietary restrictions. It offers vegetarian booths in all of the dining centers and provides ingredient lists to help students monitor which foods they can eat or not. This isn’t enough. My only option for dining should not be a salad. I should not have to pay $3,000 a semester for a dining plan that does not offer me adequate food options. Upon informing my roommates of my new change in diet, we took a trip to The Elli in search of snacks to fill my nowempty treats bin. Aisles of bright packaging left me with slim pickings: nuts and SkinnyPop. UB also offers services for students to plan their meals around a healthy and balanced diet. This includes the newly-added NetNutrition feature which will show students all the options suitable for their dietary needs at a specific location.
UB lacks options for students with dietary restrictions
REILLY MULLEN ASST. WEB EDITOR
Over 40 dining locations at UB offer a wide variety of options for whatever you may want to eat that day. According to the NetNutrition program, I have zero options at Casa Del Toro, Wrap It Up, Guac and Roll, Fowl Play and 15 other dining locations. While fiddling with the NetNutrition system, I uncovered several other flaws. Although there are numerous options for ingredients to eliminate from your plan, dairy-sensitive students are only offered the selection of “Milk” to be removed. This allows other sensitive dairy products such as butter and whey to sneak their way into vulnerable students’ diet plans. I was also disappointed to see that several of my “safe” options that were considered gluten-free, were specified as being whole wheat, another type of food that I cannot eat. A more broad spectrum of eliminatable ingredients could have easily solved these problems. Much of the appeal of UB dining is the “do-it-yourself ” options they offer to let students customize their meals. This is often executed by providing top-
UB proudly claims to be the best SUNY school as far as dining options. As a campus resident, my most economical choice for food is a meal plan, of which I have the 14. This is feasible for the majority of those who choose on-campus dining options. But the majority of students don’t live with the rather debilitating GI disorder known as Crohn’s Disease, which has stripped me of the ability to eat wheat and dairy products safely. Next time you take a trip to C3 and are perusing the stations looking for ingredients to build your dinner, take a look at the white cards that describe the ingredients of the dish you’re about to serve yourself. The only place you are guaranteed to find free of both milk and wheat is the
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Monday, September 19, 2019 Volume 69 Number 07 Cirrculation: 4,000
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pings tables that are breeding grounds for cross contamination. Open containers of peanut butter and shredded cheese can be a nightmare to maneuver for students with allergies. I know Simple Kitchen exists. However, to be offered admission into the facility, you must prove that you have dietary restrictions. It is also inconveniently on South Campus, a place that the majority of UB students have no reason to visit. There is a certain autonomy that you expect to have when you move onto a college campus. I should not have to jump through hoops and prove my case in order to obtain the most basic means of survival, which I expect to receive upon paying for my meal plan. In order for any student with a dietary restriction to live an independent life — or at least when it comes to food — UB should take bigger steps to promote safe and tasty options. The most personal details of my health are none of UB’s business. Email: reilly.mullen@ubspectrum.com
my oPtions at Guac & roll on net nutrition
Letter to the Editor
What does it mean when a white woman tells a Black woman to be civil? You would assume that the woman being told to be civil was out of control. That they were yelling. That they were using profanity. That they were not giving others a chance to contribute to the conversation. Unfortunately, none of this has to be true when you are a Black woman in our society. All that is required to be deemed uncivil is an opposing stance. On Wednesday, September 11, all seven student governments were invited to meet with Vice President of Student Life A. Scott Weber and Vice President for Finance and Administration Laura Hubbard. The purpose of the meeting was to provide updates on the transition to FSA. This forced transition was sprung upon student government leaders during the final week of classes, last semester. Carrie Woodrow who directed the Administrative Review of Sub Board I (SBI), that lead to the recommendation to dissolve SBI, gave the presentation. Throughout the presentation, student government leaders asked questions of Carrie Woodrow, Christina Hernandez, Laura Hubbard, and Scott Weber. The updates covered were on the new University
Thursday, September 19, 2019 | 3
Safety Shuttle, University Ticketing, and a legal clinic proposed by the Undergraduate Student Association. At the end of the meeting, students were given the opportunity to ask additional questions. At that time, I asked UB Administration to make the report of the administrative review committee available to the student governments. When Mike Montoro, the Student Representative on the UB Council echoed a desire to see the completed report of the administrative review committee, UB Administration sat silent. Mike then asked why the report of the committee was never released. In response to this question, I quoted Carrie Woodrow who stated during the May 6 meeting that providing the actual report would “muddy the waters”. As soon as I said that, VP Laura Hubbard told me that I needed to be civil. There is a history in this country of Black women being silenced by being told to be civil. When Black women speak up and express a difference in opinion, they are called loud, combative, aggressive, they’re accused of having an attitude, and told to calm down or be civil. Nothing about how I’ve acted in the
The views expressed – both written and graphic – in the Opinion section of The Spectrum do not necessarily reflect the views of the editorial board. Submit contributions for these pages to The Spectrum office at Suite 132 Student Union or news@ubspectrum. com. The Spectrum reserves the right to edit these pieces for style and length. If a letter is not meant for publication, please mark it as such. All submissions must include the author’s name, daytime phone number, and email address.
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four months since the university forced all seven student governments to transition to FSA is uncivilized. Sticking up for the rights of not just graduate students but all students is not uncivil. Reiterating what was said in past meetings by UB Administration is not uncivil. Asking tough questions of people who literally work for the students of the university is not uncivil. Questioning authority and criticizing institutional structures is not uncivil. As the Graduate Student Association President, one of my primary concerns is fighting for the most marginalized students on campus. I am a voice for students on campus who don’t have access to UB Administration. As a Black woman at a Predominantly White Institution (PWI), I know how it feels to not have my voice heard. I know how it feels to be expected to ignore or forgive racial microaggressions and acts of overt and covert racism. I ran for GSA President because I wanted underrepresented graduate students to know that someone was fighting for their rights. That I would advocate for them in the face of adversity no matter the consequences. This is not the first time I’ve sat in meetings with UB Administration intent on silencing me and other minority voices.
VP Hubbard’s coded comment for me to be civil wreaked of respectability politics and tone policing. I implore all UB Administration to stop trying to silence the voices of students that oppose their actions. I implore VP Hubbard to think about her inappropriate comment to me and whether it would be something she would say to a cis white male student government leader. My intersecting identities of Black and woman in combination with my assertiveness is something that makes VP Hubbard uncomfortable. To quote a recent post from NoWhiteSaviors on Instagram: “Do not let people gaslight you into believing it’s about your *tone* or *delivery*. It is about what you are saying, not how you say it. They will call you aggressive when really it is the act of holding them accountable for their dysfunctional behaviors that feels aggressive”. I will not allow VP Hubbard to make me believe that advocating on behalf of the students of UB is uncivil. I will not be silenced. This letter remains in the shape it was sent in and has not been altered. Jessica Coley Graduate Student Association President
NEWS
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ACCESSIBILITY
use the lifts so students in wheelchairs can use the bus transportation. “If [the drivers] aren’t doing that, I think that’s something that we would need to talk to the transportation company about,” Nolan-Weiss said. Director of Parking and Transportation Services Chris Austin said UB Stampede and shuttle drivers are trained during the onboarding process and “at minimum biannually” on the use of wheelchair lifts and providing services to students with disabilities. “Each of the 28 Stampede buses, and the 10 campus shuttles are equipped with lifts,” Austin wrote in an email. “All routes, at all times, have buses or shuttles that are able to provide services to passengers with disabilities.” Some students in wheelchairs said the accessible dips in the sidewalk are difficult to access because they are not in line with the street. “Even at the dips in the sidewalk where it’s supposed to be an accessible access point, I have to do a wheelie because there’s a little bump,” Tout said. Gow became paralyzed from the waistdown in September 2014 when he fell 15 feet into a creek. He broke his collarbone, cut open his head and broke four ribs and his lower back. He said winters on campus are more difficult, as the snow can make “rolling around” tough. “I’ve seen instances where they leave a big pile of snow at the curb,” Gow said. “People don’t think about things like that, which before I got injured I guess I wouldn’t either.” ADA access points such as the Student Union’s southeast entrance and Capen’s northwest entrance are supposed to be the first to be cleared once it snows at least two inches, according to UB’s Snow Removal Plan and Procedure. Nolan-Weiss said first and third-shift cleaners are assigned to keep entrances clear, but she said weather can make a previously accessible path inaccessible. “The people who are clearing the snow might need more instruction to be very clear that they can’t just clear out the door, they have to clear the ramp too,” NolanWeiss said. Gow has experienced the effects when paths are not properly cleared. “On South Campus, there was a ramp completely covered in snow, they shoveled up in front of the door to go through but not the ramp,” Gow said. Tout said because of the snow at the curbs, she sometimes needs to navigate around an entire building to find a place she can get on the sidewalk. But even when building entrances are accessible, Tout and Gow both said they’ve had classrooms without accessible tables in them. “I have classrooms that only have the chairs connected to the desk, so I have to use my arm strength to get myself from my chair into the desk and back into the wheelchair,” Tout said. Dickman has been at UB since 2017 and now works in a lab on the tenth floor of
Furnas Hall, where he said elevators are often broken. He said all three were down at one time. At the lab he works in Monday through Friday, he is not able to get in on his own, since there’s not an accessible button for the door. In summer 2018, Furnas Hall was under construction and workers removed the push plate to get in from the outside, according to Dickman. There is another door with an accessible push plate on the other side, but he wasn’t able to use it as getting to it requires a step up. Another door to get inside doesn’t have a button at all, so he had to wait for someone to get there to let him in. Dickman said educating people on accessibility concerns is the first step to fixing the problem. “It was obvious I was the first person in the chemical engineering graduate school they had to deal with in a wheelchair and I don’t think it’s something people are prepared for yet,” Dickman said. The law Ron Hager, a managing attorney at the National Disability Rights Network, said UB needs to accommodate all students. “You should not have to go around to another building to go to the bathroom, that’s totally illegal,” Hager said. “UB had architects who were supposed to comply with ADA, so they could have sued their architects for negligence or breach of contract.” Hager, an attorney involved in the 2000 case, said two federal requirements apply to UB –– the Rehabilitation Act of 1973 and the Americans with Disabilities Act of 1990. The Rehabilitation Act requires any building built after 1977 to be fully accessible, whereas the Americans with Disabilities Act, which made Titles I, II and III effective in 1992, applies to any existing structures. Since UB is federally funded, the university needed to make modifications to its existing structures. Hager said UB should have been fully accessible long ago. When students filed the lawsuit in 2000, the university told attorneys that students were “complaining about nothing,” according to Hager. Yet, the attorneys who toured the campus found many significant places were not accessible. Lockwood and Capen were at the top of the priority list, even though UB opened them after 1977. The university decided to settle. The goal of the settlement was to make the university ADA compliant. “They have to make sure when looking at the entire campus, appropriate services and activities are accessible to people with disabilities,” Hager said. “Every program and service they offer must be available in an accessible location.” Hager said all 103 academic buildings should have an accessible bathroom. Stampede buses and North Campus shuttles are wheelchair accessible, according to UB’s website. But Hager said bus drivers must be properly trained to accommodate people with disabilities to declare this. “The driver has to know how to use the straps and feel able to do that in order for
Graduate Student Zachary Dickman couldn’t get into
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the bus to actually be accessible,” Hager said. Stephanie Woodward, director of advocacy at the Center for Disability Rights in Rochester, said universities often allocate money elsewhere and don’t prioritize making their campuses accessible. “For schools to continuously receive funds to allow more students to get an education, I can’t imagine how they don’t have the funds to continuously update and ensure there are accessible bathrooms,” Woodward said. Web accessibility is another issue for college students. Pipe Dream, Binghamton Univer- The curb cuts at Lee Loop are not in line with the streets sity’s school newspaper, causing students in wheelchairs to have to do wheelies to recently found UB and get onto the sidewalk. other SUNY schools in Photo By Wayne Penales| The Spectrum violation of Section 504 has addressed 66 of the 88 accessibility isand Title II of the ADA for inequality of web access to people with sues on the 2004 audit, according to Ransom. Ransom said addressing accessibility disabilities. In February 2018, UB had to submit a is a “daunting task” since ADA guidelines Web Accessibility Policy to the Office of are continuously updated. In 2011, The Spectrum published an Civil Rights to ensure all modifications article on problems students with disabiliwould be compliant with Section 504 and ADA. Within 45 days of receiving ap- ties face. At the time, the Disabilities Serproval of the Web Accessibility Policy, UB vices office was inaccessible to students in wheelchairs and the Disability Testing provided evidence of its adoption. Center did not offer an accessible emergency exit and was not equipped for the The university’s response The Office of Equity, Diversity and In- number and needs of students using it. Since then, the office, now called Acclusion is responsible for making sure UB is compliant with ADA standards. Nolan- cessibility Resources, has been moved to Weiss said many ADA regulations have Capen 60, which UB remodeled to accombeen updated since they were first estab- modate wheelchairs. This included fixlished and making the campus accessible ing signage that was not ADA compliant, Borst said. But many classrooms still lack is an “ongoing process.” “During my time here, we’ve had to accessible tables and accessible buttons. Nolan-Weiss said she encourages studo a lot of rehab,” Nolan-Weiss said. “It’s always harder to retrofit a building dents to report these concerns online. “If we don’t hear complaints, it’s hard and make it accessible than it is to build it from the ground up and make it acces- for us to assess,” Nolan-Weiss said. “The more feedback we get, the better because sible.” Nolan-Weiss said most North and it does matter to us.” Gow said he thinks UB should give acSouth Campus buildings were built prior to accessibility regulations, so some areas cessibility surveys to students so they could are not up to ADA standards. The Office have a better idea of the struggles students of Equity, Diversity and Inclusion doesn’t with disabilities are facing on campus. “I think it would be cool to start a club keep a list of the buildings that aren’t compliant, according to Nolan-Weiss. Hager for people in wheelchairs, this way we said UB is federally funded, and the ADA could get together and talk about things of 1990 required existing structures to like accessibility,” Gow said. Tout said it would be “life-changing” if make modifications. Nolan-Weiss said this is not entirely pos- UB “made an effort” to become more accessible. sible with UB’s existing campus. “The people who have to make the “There are some buildings where we don’t have to retrofit every single thing to changes are the ones who are oppressed ADA standard, because we’d basically be and struggling,” Tout said. “They have to gutting the whole building and renovating fight for these changes, because they don’t have any other option if these changes every single thing,” Nolan-Weiss said. Ransom has been involved with ADA aren’t made.” improvements since May 2006. She said Email: brittany.gorny@ubspectrum.com the first phase of projects from the 2004 Twitter @BrittanyGorny audit addressed signage, entrances, accessible routes and bathrooms at highest occupancy facilities. UB
one
of his classrooms last semester since the door was already closed and he couldn’t get anyones attention inside. Photo By Brittany Gorny | The Spectrum
Graduate Student Connor Gow didn’t have an accessible table in Capen Hall where he had class last semester. Photo By Brittany Gorny | The Spectrum
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A beginner’s guide to setting a skincare routine SAMANTHA VARGAS
FEATURES
from acne, discoloration, dry skin or leftover acne scars, there’s a product out there for you.
SENIOR FEATURES EDITOR
Disclaimer: I’m not a dermatologist. Make sure to patch test any new products to avoid skin irritation. (And check in with a professional.) Gone are the days of Proactiv and St. Ives apricot scrubs. Skincare has taken over in this new age of self-care and selfpreservation. But as new companies and formulas continue to advance, approaching the world of skincare becomes more intimidating with each new buzzwordfilled article. Acids? Retinoids? I’m getting an English degree! But luckily for you, The Spectrum has compiled a comprehensive guide to understanding these new skincare fads.
The first step to approaching skincare is figuring out your skin type. Skin types sit on a spectrum, but generally they align closer to dry, oily, combination or normal. This can shift between a number of factors including genetics, climate, season, age and diet. This step can be the most difficult because there are no set expectations for skin characteristics, but it’s also very important to establish what components you need in your products. The foundation of any routine consists of three elements: a cleanser, a moisturizer and sunscreen. These basic products are meant to be building blocks and can be altered with additives and additional products for each unique skin type. Cleansers are used to remove debris from the skin. It’s important to use a gentle cleanser at night to remove makeup and dirt from the day. You may not need to use a cleanser in the morning depending on your skin and can just rinse the skin with water to prevent it from drying out. When it comes to moisturizers, the vast number of options makes choosing one formula difficult. Moisturizers are essential for restoring natural oils and nourishing the skin barrier. This barrier, which is often the most overlooked element of basic skincare, protects the skin from losing essential nutrients and acts as a shield against harmful bacteria. Protecting the skin barrier will only contribute to the neutralization of skin quality. Depending on your skin type, there are a number of moisturizer types that vary in consistency and ingredients. It’s normal to try a variety of formulas to figure out which you prefer for daily use as well as overnight. But make sure to use a moisturizer designed for the face, not for the body. Body lotions contain comedogenic oils –– like coconut and argan –– which are too heavy to absorb into the skin and can clog pores. Non-comedogenic ingredients to look for in moisturizers include hyaluronic acid and glycerin. Sunscreen is no longer reserved for trips to the beach. It should be used regularly to avoid permanent sun damage, like dark spots and premature wrinkles. Although most people agree sunscreen application is no walk in the park –– with its terrible smell and ashy application –– sunscreen has been incorporated as an ingredient in a variety of products. From moisturizers and BB creams to liquid foundations and concealers, finding that SPF is easier than ever.
If you’re like the majority of millennials, you’ve been left with more confusion than clarity after reading a Cosmopolitan or Buzzfeed skincare article. They’re full of professional-sounding people recommending unexplained acronyms and harsh-sounding acids. But this confusing terminology can be broken down based on your skin’s needs. Whether you suffer
Almost everyone has experienced acne at some point in their lives, and finding a solution can feel impossible. When approaching acne, it’s important to try and figure out the root of the problem. Although acne is most commonly associated with poor hygiene, there are actually a number of reactants that cause it. Hormonal acne is incredibly common in younger people, which is why many teenagers experience acne when they begin puberty. This type of acne can usually be counteracted through prescription medications. It can be difficult to determine if acne is hormonal, and different products should be tried to rule out other causes. An unexpected cause of acne can be dry or dehydrated skin. When the skin lacks moisture, it will overcompensate and produce more oils which can cause clogging. Many people mistake dehydrated skin for oily skin because of this. The key difference is a tight-feeling of skin after cleansing –– in dehydrated skin –– rather than the expected buoyancy of a fully-hydrated face. Some skin is just prone to acne. It’s normal and common to experience breakouts, but there are a number of products you can try that might lessen the chance of clogged pores. Products that contain ingredients like salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide are all over the market. They are used to combat acne breakouts; however, they are often advertised as the same thing. Salicylic acid is a chemical exfoliant, which reduces the amount of dead skin cells to prevent clogged pores. Benzoyl peroxide is a topical antiseptic that fights the harmful bacteria on the face. While both can garner successful results, they are not interchangeable ingredients.
and hyaluronic acid are vital humectants, which are used to actively reduce the loss of moisture. Some people have luck using occlusive products, such as Vaseline, over a moisturizer. Skincare can be a rewarding investment, but it’s important to set realistic expectations. Although you might strive for flawless skin, it’s important to remember that
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you are human and everyone has flaws. Not every product will work for everyone and it takes time and patience to establish a solid routine that produces the best results. As long as you never try to DIY a lemon juice and baking soda face mask again, you’ll be working toward that goal. Email: Samantha.Vargas@ubspectrum.com Twitter: @SamMarieVargas
If you’ve already won the battle with acne, you might be experiencing discoloration or acne scars. Ice pick, boxcar and rolling scars are all the result of a loss of tissue in the skin. These can reach deep into the epidermis, which is the uppermost layer of the skin. Realistically, there aren’t products available on the market that target deep scarring. Professional procedures like chemical peels or fillers are often recommended, but derma-rollers can be purchased for at-home use. These are facial rollers that are equipped with microneedles, whose bi-monthly use can stimulate collagen production in the skin. Some choose to approach acne scars with the same techniques that they use for discoloration, with products that work to lessen the amount of visible texture on the skin. While this will not replenish the loss of tissue, it will work to essentially blur the skin. Ingredients to look for include alpha hydroxy acids –– AHAs –– which are superficial exfoliants. Vitamin C is often suggested to combat discoloration, dullness and acne scars, as well.
Sometimes approaching dry skin is not as easy as applying a simple moisturizer twice a day. There are many factors that go into skin condition, and dry skin can be caused by things completely out of your control like climate and humidity. If the skin appears to be flaking, scaly or feels uncomfortably tight, the problem could be right within your normal skincare routine. This can come from harsh cleaners that strip the natural moisture out of the skin. When treating dry skin, it makes sense to use products and ingredients that promote hydration. Ingredients like glycerin GRAPHIC BY JESSICA SUTTON
6 | Thursday, September 19, 2019
ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT
Paying for portraits UB student artists share their experiences selling their artwork JULIANNA TRACEY SENIOR ARTS EDITOR
Marysia Paradis began making art as soon as she could hold a pencil. Her mother encouraged her to draw and paint and she soon found that she especially had a skill and love for drawing animals. Paradis, a sophomore biological science major, originally used these pet portraits as a method of relaxation, but soon found they could be an extra source of income. She soon started selling pet portraits, phone cases, cups and jackets on eBay –– portraits for $70, phone cases and cups for $35 and jackets for roughly $200. And Paradis isn’t alone. Students across UB are using their talents to earn extra cash. Emily Quartley, a junior studio art major, also sells her paintings, drawings and prints. She primarily sells her work on Etsy, Redbubble, Instagram and through family connections. Quartley’s pieces range from $15-$100, depending on the size of the work. She remembers wanting to pursue art from a young age, as people close to her would notice her talents and ask her to draw for them. People soon began purchasing Quartley’s artwork and commissioning her for original pieces, which has been more than just monetarily rewarding for her. “My favorite experience selling art was when a former art teacher that I had asked to buy a small painting from my Instagram,” Quartley said. “She said it made her proud watching me progress the way I have over time.” Quartley has since gone on to make more impressive pieces, including a lifesized self-portrait that she used as her final piece in her figure drawing class last semester. While her art is validating in itself,
Quartley said seeing people’s reactions to her portraits is her favorite part of the selling process. “Seeing their faces light up is a beautiful experience,” Paradis said. Kristen Marie Lopez, a sophomore music theatre major, also enjoys selling her artwork and began giving her recreations of popular cartoon characters out to her friends as gifts, later receiving requests for her work. Lopez has designed cartoon characters on shoes, painted portraits and drawn on homemade shelves. Lopez enjoys the process of fulfilling her requests. “I’ve had people be like, ‘Hey, it’s my sister’s birthday and she loves ‘Dear Evan Hansen,’ so could you put the logo of ‘Dear Evan Hansen’ on these converse?’ So I’ll get my acrylic paint markers, I’ll sketch it out, outline it, draw it on there, modge podge spray it. If they just want solid colors, I’ve done crayons before, so it has a waxy layer to make it more waterproof before I spray it to keep it together.” Lopez said. Some of Lopez’s favorite works were the “Plankton splat” –– a recreation of the Spongebob character Plankton being thrown against a wall on the bottom
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of someone’s shoe –– and a portrait of a friend’s grandfather. The student entrepreneurs, despite the positive reactions to their work, still experience difficulties while selling. Quartley said she feels uncomfortable pricing commissioned works and ends up underselling her pieces because she worries she may be charging too much. “I have also had a couple people not pay me the emily quartley Poses with her life-siZed drawinG. price they said they courtesy of hoanG nGuyen would, back when I meet. So many people will see different was new to [selling art] and was too timid stories in the same piece,” Paradis said. to do anything about adults shorting me,” “That’s why a picture is said to be worth a Quartley said. thousand words.” Paradis said it can also be difficult to Lopez said she has started marketing tofind the right audiences and platforms to ward college students, rather than adults. market her work to. This shift in focus has allowed Lopez to “Art is such a personal thing for both create the kind of work that interests her. the creator and the viewer. It forms a rela“I no longer have adults asking for $100 tionship between both, yet you may never worth of artwork. Now it’s more like on
marysia Paradis uses her skill in drawinG animals to decorate items like cuPs, iPhone cases, and Jackets. courtesy of marysia Paradis
shoes and cartoons and using the ‘Power Puff Girls,’ the Central Perk logo from ‘Friends’ [and] Area 51 alien stuff.” Quartley shares pictures of her artwork on her Instagram, @emilyquartley. Paradis hopes to use her time at UB to embrace the artistic opportunities around her. “As an artist, I am constantly brainstorming ideas. When I walk around campus, I see the brick walls and imagine gigantic murals,” Paradis said “There are just so many different possibilities in the world of art and I cannot wait to share my creations, to show just a little more insight into my world as an artist.” Email: julianna.tracey@ubspectrum.com Twitter: @JTraceySpec
“Hairspray” brings the ‘60s back to Buffalo UB students showcase their talents in awardwinning musical
Watts are all UB alumni. Jamil Kassem-Lopez, a sophomore music theatre major, performs a leading role and truly held his own among the veteran actors. ANASTASIA WILDS As Tracy’s love interest Link Larkin, ASST. ARTS EDITOR Kassem-Lopez transformed himself from Buffalo’s production of “Hairspray” a UB student to a professional actor by brings something to the musical that prodemonstrating his strong stage presence fessional performances don’t typically see. and incredible vocals. A student-filled cast. Kassem-Lopez landed the role with the “Hairspray,” despite the uncharacterishelp of a teacher recommendation shortly tically young team, radiated an exuberant energy between the cast and audience that after his audition, and he said he is happy to have the opportunity. “It is an awesome show and an amazing opportunity to work professionally outside of school. I could never turn down such a big opportunity,” KassemLopez said. “It’s really exciting. I get to do what I stills from the Production of hairsPray love every single now showinG at the kavinoky theatre. night and embrace courtesy of Gene witkowski a completely difresonated throughout the house. On Sept. 6, a new production of the ferent person.” Actors tackled the 1960s-style vigorous musical opened at the Kavinoky Thechoreography and complicated chords atre. The musical originally premiered in Seattle in 2002 and is based on the 1988 with ease. Allan Paglia, the music director, said the film “Hairspray.” The story takes place in production has surprisingly been more 1962 in Baltimore and follows plus-sized teenager Tracy Turnblad who fought to difficult than he expected, specifically citbecome a dancing star on The Corny Col- ing difficulties with the pit at the Kavinoky lins Show. She uses her newfound fame Theatre –– which is in a separate room to fight for racial integration on the show, from the house. “[The musical] seemed like it was goeven though it could cost her everything. ing to be an easy one because it was pretty The Buffalo production includes talent standard music,” Paglia said. “But there’s from UB –– with two current students in so much ensemble singing [with] so many the production –– and runs until Oct. 6. While the show is off-campus, UB stu- music verses … and all these little very dents still made their way into the cut. similar parts [that are] also different at the Hannah Keller, a senior music theatre ma- same time. … It’s a very deceptively hard jor, is in the ensemble and actors Kevin score to learn.” Paglia said having younger cast members Kennedy, Kevin Cusi and Alexandria
also complicated the process of learning music. “They’re not as tenured or seasoned as some of the older actors. So, it’s a little bit harder to get them together and do what they need to do to get the right sound,” Paglia said. “[Regardless], it has turned out really well.” One of the professional actors, Lorenzo Shawn Parnell, left attendees in tears with his Aretha Franklin-esque vocals. Parnell, who plays Motormouth Maybelle, seemed to test the limits of the Kavinoky Theatre’s sound system during Maybelle’s signature song “I Know Where I’ve Been,” his voice traveling through the audience, rather than just moving through the space around them. Kassem-Lopez said he loved having the opportunity to work with older actors. “I love every single one of them,” Kassem-Lopez said. “They are so knowledgeable and passionate about their craft that it is inspiring to see them work.” UB students make up more than just cast members for the production. The video designer for the show, Brian Milbrand, graduated from UB in 2002 with a media studies degree. For this show, Milbrand worked to find, create and produce the videos and images that appeared on the LED curtains on the backdrop of the stage. “It’s the first time that we have really broken [the projections] up into modularlike tiny screens, which has been interesting to work out,” Milbrand said. Instead of doing the projection on
scrims like he has in other shows, Milbrand used the LED curtains to give the videos a pixelated aesthetic to emanate the ‘60s-vibes in the production. Along with looking in the archives for videos and photos, Milbrand shot some of the footage himself. “Probably the most enjoyable thing about working on the show for me was getting [to go to] Baltimore. So, a lot of the footage was actually shot out in Baltimore,” Milbrand said. With all the new members in both the cast and crew for this show, production manager Norman Sham was glad to see the success of the production so far. “[With] so many new things, so many things could go wrong, and they were very close to doing that,” Sham said. “But they sort of hit a groove last week, and it’s starting to hit its stride now.”
Kassem-Lopez recognized that the cast finally “hit a groove” and is excited to see what the production brings in upcoming performances. “This show can only grow and I’m so excited to see where it goes,” Kassem-Lopez said. “I’m really hoping that the energy we are at never dwindles and that the message is always received.” Email: anastasia.wilds@ubspectrum.com Twitter: @AnastasiaWilds
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SPORTS
8 | Thursday, September 19, 2019
Volleyball prepares for Blue and White Classic
The Bulls look to improve defense before home tournament SARA HOLLAND STAFF WRITER
After a slow start to the season, the volleyball team (2-7) is looking to come out on top in the 2019 Blue and White Classic this weekend. The Bulls will compete against Cornell (4-2), St. Francis (0-9), and Canisius (2-7) Friday and Saturday. The team is looking to improve its defense before the tournament, which will be the Bulls’ last battles before conference play. “We’re really focusing on perfecting our defense and perfecting on first contact with the ball,” said senior middle Kristina Nieves, who has 66.5 points so far this season. “So with our serve receive and just basically executing, finishing out a play, where we may have struggled in the past.” Head coach Scott Smith said he’s determined to keep his team at the top defensively. The Bulls have lost 0-3 five times this season, against teams like Alabama (8-2), Wyoming (4-5) and Green Bay (7-2). Their two wins, against Marist (2-7) and College of Charleston (2-7), saw the Bulls walk away 3-0 and 3-2, respectively. “We’re focused a lot on blocking and defense, as we always are,” Smith said. “We’re one of the strongest blocking teams in the Mid-American Conference. We want to keep that going.” Smith said it’s important that while they encounter some struggles, they are able to keep their mental games sharp. “We always talk about having confidence and we do mentality sessions where we discuss different mental approaches toward the game, not getting overwhelmed when we make a single mistake and learning how to pull ourselves out of bad situations,” Smith said. Not only is Smith optimistic about this upcoming week, the team is confident in their abilities to add to their wins. “I think this year, we have a lot of depth in every position,” Neives said. “We have amazing talent in the gym. So I think we match up really well.” The Blue and White Classic begins at 10:30 a.m. Friday as Cornell takes on Canisius. The Bulls first take the floor against St. Francis at 12:30 p.m.
Where Germany meets Buffalo Fabian Weitz’ 3,850-mile journey for the sport of his dreams MYAH GONZALEZ STAFF WRITER
When Fabian Weitz steps on the field at UB Stadium, he doesn’t play only for himself, but for the country he left to be in the U.S.. Playing football in America has been a dream of Weitz’ –– who comes from Cologne, Germany –– for a very long time. And at UB, the linebacker is finally living that dream. As someone who previously played for the German National U19 team, Weitz already knew he had the talent. But as a linebacker on the smaller side –– as far as American football goes –– he’s ready to prove himself on a new team, in a new country. Weitz, a 6’0, 220-pound redshirt freshman, had his first opportunity to play American football in 2018 when he attended a Rutgers football camp through the Premier Prospects International program. The camp showcases international players’ talents to U.S. college teams, and Weitz’ abilities caught the eye of Buffalo coaches right away. “It was about two days after the camp that [UB] called my coach and said they wanted to bring me over” Weitz said. Two hours later, Weitz boarded a plane
to America. The next day, UB offered him the chance to officially be a Buffalo Bull. For Weitz, the choice was a no-brainer. “I was just so overwhelmed,” Weitz said. “They believed in me from the start.”
Weitz had an offer. “He trained for five to six months so he could go to schools with me in the summertime,” Collier said. “So he lit it up at [camp in] Rutgers, and Buffalo offered him a scholarship a few days later, and the rest is history.” At his size, playing linebacker, Weitz had to work harder to be noticed. “At that time, it was almost impossible to sell, because nobody wants to take a kid that size,” Collier said. “But his work ethic is unmatched, he’s very fast — the kid just UB Football team linebacker Fabian Weitz. has it.” Photo By Vindhya Burugupalli | The Spectrum And UB saw it. Moving to another country, regardless His transition into the world of Diviof talent, is never easy. sion-1 sports has been different from his Weitz had been to the U.S. a handful of experiences playing on the national team times before making the big move, but ac- in Germany — and American football just tually living here has included more adjust- might be winning him over. ments than he anticipated. “D-1 football is way better.” Weitz said. “I kind of thought I knew what it was “It’s faster, it’s more physical and you prelike to live here, but actually being here, it’s pare way more for an opponent.” very different.” As a freshman, adjusting to the team Weitz has a lot on his plate, but as far as won’t be the only battle he’ll face. Weitz football goes, he couldn’t be happier. hasn’t had the chance to step onto the field Brandon Collier, founder of Premier for the Bulls yet, so his goal for the season Prospects International, has complete is simple –– get some playing time and refaith in Weitz’s abilities. He trained with ally showcase his talents. him in the months before the camp and “I want to do my best, show the coaches saw what Weitz was made of. that I want it and just help the team win.” Collier recalls bringing Weitz to the U.S. with a purpose –– he wasn’t leaving until Email: sports@ubspectrum.com
Get to Know an Opponent: Temple The Bulls to take on the Owls at UB Stadium JUSTIN WEISS STAFF WRITER
The Bulls return to UB Stadium Saturday afternoon as underdogs against the Temple Owls. Coming off a 20-17 victory over thenNo. 21 Maryland, the Owls are a formidable challenger to the Bulls, who struggled in a 35-17 loss to Liberty Saturday. The Owls have received seven votes in the AP Top 25 and Coaches Poll, after defeating Bucknell 56-12 in week one and Maryland in week three. The Owls made national headlines last winter for cycling through three head coaches in the span of a month. On Dec. 13, the Owls hired Miami defensive coordinator Manny Diaz to replace Geoff Collins who Georgia Tech hired unexpectedly. On Dec. 30, after Mark Richt’s unexpected retirement, Diaz returned to Miami Gardens, despite never coaching a game in Philadelphia. On Jan. 10, Temple hired Rod Carey, who coached Northern Illinois to a MAC Championship Game win over Buffalo. Email: sports@ubspectrum.com Carey coached NIU to a 52-30 record over six seasons in DeKalb, Illinois. Under Carey, the Huskies peaked at No. 16 in the AP Poll, going 12-2 in 2013 and 11-3 in 2014. Over this span, Carey had a 4-0 record against Buffalo. Last September, the Bulls and Redshirt-sophomore cornerback Christian Braswell (left) Owls met assists senior linebacker Shaun Bradley in a tackle during the at Lincoln fourth quarter in the Owls’ game against Maryland at Lincoln. Courtesy of Justin Oakes | The Temple News Financial
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Field. Quarterback Tyree Jackson passed for 275 yards and three touchdowns to lead Buffalo to a 36-29 victory and their first 2-0 start since 1983. Both teams ultimately qualified for bowl games and landed players on NFL training camp rosters. Here’s what to expect when the Bulls take on the Owls at 3:30 p.m. Saturday:
COACH: Rod Carey, 54-30, first season at Temple
LOOKING BACK
The Owls started off last season with losses to Villanova and Buffalo, but never hit the panic button. Over the next ten weeks, they earned victories over Maryland, Houston and No. 20 Cincinnati. Ultimately, they went 8-5 and earned an invite to play Duke in the 2018 Independence Bowl. Quarterback Anthony Russo had an up-and-down 2018 season, taking over as starter against Maryland and completing 57.4% of his passes for 2563 yards, 14 touchdowns and 14 interceptions. He found a spark with receivers Ventell Bryant (51 receptions for 690 yards and 3 touchdowns) and Branden Mack (44 receptions for 601 yards and 5 touchdowns), who helped the Owls’ offense record 34.9 points per game. Running back Ryquell Armstead was named first-team All-AAC after rushing for 1098 yards and 13 scores on 210 carries. He was assisted by left guard Jovahn Fair, who anchored the offensive line and was named second-team All-AAC. Behind strong offensive line play, the Owls averaged 410 yards per game, ranking No. 61 in Division I-A. On the other side of the ball, the Owls had six players named either first or second-team All-AAC. Safety Delvon Randall led the team with 85 tackles and four interceptions, before signing with the Philadelphia Eagles in late April. Temple had five players record two or more interceptions
in 2018 –– safety Benny Walls, cornerback Linwood Crump, cornerback Rock Ya-Sin and linebacker Shaun Bradley. Defensive end Michael Dogbe was a seventh-round pick by the Cardinals, after recording 72 tackles, 12.5 tackles-for-loss and 7 sacks. He joined Quincy Roche (57 tackles, 9.0 tackles-for-loss and 6 sacks) on what was a ferocious defensive line. Geoff Collins has long been a defensive-minded coach, and his final season in Philadelphia proved not to be an exception.
LOOKING FORWARD
Carey has gotten off to a terrific start at Temple, leading the Owls to impressive wins over Maryland and Bucknell. He has experience as an offensive coordinator and offensive line coach, a change-of-pace from his predecessors in Philadelphia. Russo got off to a quick start, completing 66.7% of his passes for 686 yards and seven scores. He has connected with Jadan Blue and 2018 AAC Special Teams Player of the Year Isaiah Wright on multiple touchdown strikes. On the other side of the ball, defensive tackle Ifeanyi Maijeh has 11 tackles and a team-leading 3 sacks. Meanwhile, cornerback Harrison Hand leads the team with 12 tackles and an interception. Over the first three weeks of the season, Temple has given up just 29 combined points as they look to keep on winning.
BOTTOM LINE
The new-look Owls enter UB Stadium as heavy favorites, as they vie for their first top-25 ranking since 2016. On the other sideline, the Bulls are looking to end nonconference play with a much-needed win. For Buffalo to have a chance against the high-flying Owls, they will need to lean on the arm and legs of redshirt freshman quarterback Matt Myers. Like the rest of his team, Myers has flashed greatness — but also signs of trouble. The Bulls will have to put it all together to have any chance against the Owls on Saturday. Email: sports@ubspectrum.com
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