The Spectrum Vol. 66 No. 48

THURSDAY, APRIL 27, 2017

STYLE ISSUE

VOLUME 66 NO. 48

STYLE ISSUE

ubspectrum.com

10 Self-made and in Vogue UB senior emphasizes the importance of conďŹ dence in her clothing line

14 Check my style Offensive lineman Paul Nosworthy shows off his personal style

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14 From trash to cash UB business student makes $15,000 in one year selling vintage clothes on eBay

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COVER BY PIERCE STRUDLER | PHOTO BY GABRIELA JULIA

6 Vingt Cinq Buffalo-born designer stays true to his roots

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Questionable business practices cast shadow over UB donor’s pharmaceutical legacy Kapoor earned a quarter of his wealth from opioid spray currently in midst of legal controversy SARAH CROWLEY SENIOR FEATURES EDITOR

When Kapoor Hall opened its doors in the fall of 2012, the light-filled, $62 million building marked a proud new chapter in the UB School of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences.

The building was named on behalf of donor John Kapoor, who donated over $10.8 million to the school – currently ranked No. 22 in the nation, according to U.S. News & World Report – through the John and Editha Kapoor Charitable Foundation. But in the last few years, Kapoor’s company, Insys Therapeutics, has been less admirable than the stunning building that bears his name.

In December of last year, six Insys executives were charged with conspiring to bribe doctors to prescribe their mouth-spray version of Fentanyl – an opioid 80 times stronger than morphine, according to Forbes.

Kapoor’s name remains across the Pharmacy School’s main entrance, but Kapoor himself was not charged with any involvement in the alleged criminal activities.

Still, some in the UB community feel his involvement in contributing to the legal opioid problem, intentional or not, should warrant his name’s removal.

UB spokesperson John Della Contrada said the university is aware of the charges involving employees formerly associated with Insys Therapeutics.

“During a career spanning many years, Dr. Kapoor has played an important role in developing medical treatments that relieve the anguish of those who suffer from severe and chronic pain due to cancer and other debilitating diseases and he has developed pharmaceutical products in the areas of ophthalmology, antidotes and anti-infectives,” Della Contrada said in an email.

LUCAS SMITH, THE SPECTRUM

The School of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences is currently housed in John and Editha Kapoor Hall. Kapoor earned naming rights to the building after years of donations totaling $10.8 million.

Della Contrada said the building bears the Kapoor name in recognition of the couple’s “long-time support” of the school.

Kapoor is a Ph.D of medicinal chemistry, pharmaceutical entrepreneur and recipient of UB’s Distinguished Alumni Award. Forbes estimated his net worth at $2.1 billion in 2016.

“Kapoor has run a number of pharmaceutical companies over his 40-year career, often allowing them to push ethical and legal limits, confident that he could clean up the mess afterward,” Forbes wrote in a 2015 profile on Kapoor.

“If you ask me, a donor with questionably amoral practices, to me that isn’t news. Lots of people with less than reputable character have their names on plenty of buildings,” said Elizabeth Mariani, a UB alumnus.

“Look at the man leading our country. How many buildings is his name on?”

Mariani said she was initially angry when she heard the charges surrounding Kapoor.

Her brother overdosed in 2015 after battling opioid addiction for years.

She said she understands why many feel upset and hurt by the allegations. But for Mariani, the opioid abuse epidemic goes beyond the walls of any building.

“I’m a proud UB alum, I think the school is in charge of its brand, the pharmacy school is in charge of its brand,” Mariani said.

In December 2016, six Insys executives were arrested and charged with conspiracy to bribe doctors and in the process, potentially hurt patients and defraud insurers. The indict-

ments contained a pattern of allegations. For instance, in one charge, Insys allegedly paid a doctor $229,640 for speaking events called “sham events,” attended by friends or office staff. The same doctor then wrote 2,148 prescriptions for Subsys during this period.

Despite Kapoor’s financial ties to Subsys – Forbes estimated close to $60 million of his net worth is from Subsys shares – Kapoor himself has not been charged with anything.

But the question of a name on a building has been simmering within academia for decades now.

Last April, Princeton University announced it would keep President Woodrow Wilson’s name on a school building after groups on campus called for removing Wilson for his racist past.

Princeton’s board of trustees promised instead to expand on the school’s promise of equity, diversity and inclusion and to be more transparent “in recognizing Wilson’s failings and shortcomings as well as the visions and achievements that led to the naming of the school and the college in the first place,” according to The Washington Post.

In 2005, Seton Hall University changed the name of an academic building named for L. Dennis Kozlowski, after the donor and former Tyco CEO was charged for embezzlement. Kozlowski asked for his name to be removed to spare the school’s embarrassment, according to CNN Money.

Brandon Raleigh, a UB alumnus and resident at the Jacobs School of Medicine, first heard about Kapoor and Insys from a colleague and didn’t think much of it. More recently, Raleigh was searching for articles related to the opioid crisis; and everywhere he looked, he saw Insys.

“I felt disgusted and disappointed, but far from shocked,” Raleigh said. “In the future, there should be a higher level of scrutiny regarding sources of donations. The medical establishment needs to take a long, hard look at the influence of for-profit companies on medical education and healthcare at large.”

email: sarah.crowley@ubspectrum.com

STYLE ISSUE Editorial Board EDITOR IN CHIEF

That girl with the RED LIPSTICK

How fashion and makeup helped me develop self-confidence wore. It was far too much of a

Gabriela Julia

MANAGING EDITOR

Tori Roseman COPY EDITORS

Saqib Hossain Emma Medina Margaret Wilhelm Grace Trimper NEWS EDITORS

Hannah Stein, Senior Ashley Inkumsah, Senior Maddy Fowler, Asst.

FEATURES EDITORS

Sarah Crowley, Senior Lindsay Gilder, Asst.

ARTS EDITORS

Max Kaltnitz, Senior David Tunis-Garcia Benjamin Blanchet, Asst.

SPORTS EDITORS

Michael Akelson, Senior Daniel Petruccelli, Asst.

Thomas Zafonte, Asst.

PHOTO EDITORS

Kainan Guo, Senior Angela Barca Troy Wachala, Asst.

CREATIVE DIRECTORS

Pierce Strudler Martina LaVallo, Asst.

Professional Staff OFFICE ADMINISTRATOR

Helene Polley

MADDY FOWLER ASST. NEWS EDITOR

For me, fashion and makeup are more than just a superficial means of expression.

They are the tools of my survival.

When I was in high school, I never wore makeup, and did not give much thought to fashion. I dismissed makeup and fashion as a superficial waste of time, something “other girls” wasted their energy on.

It wasn’t until I entered an eating disorder treatment program that my attitude about fashion and makeup completely changed.

I was in a partial hospitalization program, which meant for several months, I was in treatment from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. every Monday through Friday.

I was not completely invested in treatment at first. I would show up

10 to 15 minutes late every day, eager to put off getting weighed and forcing down yet another highcalorie meal. Each day was jampacked with therapy and group sessions and involved a lot of emotionally exhausting self-reflection.

Can you blame me for being reluctant to go?

My treatment progress was very slow at first and my symptoms actually started to get worse — I was still making myself throw up most days when I got home from treatment, and when I started vomiting blood, my therapist told me I needed to stop purging cold-turkey or I would be placed in inpatient hospitalization.

As much of a drag as partial hospitalization was, it certainly beat being in the hospital full-time.

I had to find some way to force myself to stop purging and get serious about treatment.

When faced with overwhelming challenges like this, I turn to my Taylor Swift CDs. No one understands me quite like she does and her music has gotten me through the most difficult times in my life.

As I clutched her Red album in my hands, I found myself admiring her bright red lipstick. While I did own a red lipstick somewhere in my very limited makeup collection, it was not something I ever

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statement for my taste at the time; any makeup I wore was simply to conceal imperfections, and I specifically chose understated outfits that disguised the body I hated so much. I specifically made these choices with the goal of fading into the background and not calling attention to myself. Painting my lips bright red would have the opposite effect.

But Taylor looked so beautiful and confident with her ruby lips.

And I reasoned that if I looked like a fool in such a bright hue, what better place to experiment with a bold lip color than eating disorder treatment? It’s not like anyone there would really care what I looked like.

So the next morning, I actually set my alarm and got up on time. I dug through my wardrobe, tossing aside drab turtlenecks and khaki pants, looking for something out of my comfort zone.

I ended up finding floral leggings and a striped top. I put a polka dot scarf in my hair. And to finish off the look, I put on my bright crimson lipstick.

In retrospect, I am sure I looked pretty ridiculous in that ensemble, but it was a huge, symbolic step for me. For the first time, I put on clothes because they were pretty and made a statement – not as some sort of strategic way to cover up my flaws. When I tossed

aside the bland clothes of my teen years, in a way, I was also tossing aside the restrictions of my eating disorder.

The other patients, doctors and therapists all complimented my lipstick and my outfit. One person even told me I looked like Taylor Swift.

When I got home from treatment that, I did not make myself throw up because I didn’t want to mess up my red lipstick.

And I haven’t made myself throw up since then.

Pretty soon, I became known as “that fashionable girl” or “that girl with the red lipstick.” I slowly stopped obsessing about my body, food and calories and found myself shifting my thoughts to skirt and crop top combinations, fabric textures and colors that compliment my skin tone. Depression and self-loathing used to make it hard for me to get out of bed.

Now, I can’t wait to wake up and choose that day’s outfit and put on my favorite red lipstick.

I wore red lipstick every single day for at least a year after that.

What started out as a way to stop myself from purging became a signature part of my look. For the first time, I had an identity outside of “the sad girl with the eating disorder.” Slowly, I began to come into my own and really discover who I am.

And it all started with a swipe of red lipstick. email: maddy.fowler@ubspectrum.com

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The art of thrifting My firsthand experience buying secondhand

THE SPECTRUM Thursday, April 27, 2017 Volume 66 Number 48 Circulation 4,000 The views expressed – both written and graphic – in the Feedback, Opinion and Perspectives sections of The Spectrum do not necessarily reflect the views of the editorial board. Submit contributions for these pages to The Spectrum office at Suite 132 Student Union or news@ubspectrum.com. The Spectrum reserves the right to edit these pieces for style and length.

If a letter is not meant for publication, please mark it as such. All submissions must include the author’s name, daytime phone number, and email address.

For information on adverstising with The Spectrum, visit www.ubspectrum.com/advertising or call us directly at 716-645-2152 The Spectrum offices are located in 132 Student Union, UB North Campus, Buffalo, NY 142602100

BRENTON J. BLANCHET STAFF WRITER

Shopping secondhand doesn’t make you cheap; it makes you unique.

I’ve been looked down upon for purchasing used clothing, but it’s such a huge part of what brings my style together.

Every weekend I hit up the local thrifts near campus, looking for pieces that will not only compliment my wardrobe, but also compliment my wallet. Occasionally, I come out empty-handed, but most of the time I find some real gems.

A couple of weeks ago, I came

back to campus with two pairs of pants and three shirts for a grand total of $23. It almost feels like you’re robbing the place.

The steals are one thing, but I think the biggest draw to secondhand shopping is that it separates your style from that of your peers.

Sure, it’s easy to shop online or pick up the latest trends at your local H&M, but everybody else has that same mindset. Although I do shop new as well, I don’t want to dress like everyone else. I want to buy pieces that I can incorporate into my outfit and call my own.

The worst thing in the world is seeing the dude behind you in a lecture wearing the exact same T-shirt.

Don’t get me wrong – I love buying brand new clothing too. I just feel like shopping for brand new stuff comes with a hint of guilt. I never know if the jeans I just bought were worth their $30 price tag, or if a $20 tee is actually a quality purchase.

When thrifting, there’s never any need for this shopper’s remorse.

Everything is so cheap that it’s almost impossible to feel bad about

spending some cash.

My favorite eras in terms of fashion trends were the ’80s and ’90s.

Boy bands were killing the game with colorful looks, Zack Morris was showing up his classmates in “Saved by the Bell” and Tommy Hilfiger was high in demand. That time frame of fashion has been coming back, but not completely.

Vintage-inspired clothing is cool and all, but there’s nothing quite like buying the real thing. I have no problem with other people’s fashion decisions, but when it comes to my look, I’m a little picky.

If I have the choice of buying a modern take on a piece of clothing, or check the thrifts until I find one of my liking, I’ll always choose the latter.

Thrifting is also a hunt. You scavenge through racks, look at everything and keep going until the whole store is swept through. This is the biggest appeal of thrifting; it becomes more of a hobby than just shopping.

You’ll never fight over the last of any product, because if you do, you may just miss something else.

That’s where thrift shopping can get a bit competitive. If you don’t find something, somebody else eventually will. It’s essential to hit up the shops on days that they restock the shelves, so you can have

LETTER TO THE EDITOR

Robert Spencer’s appearance on campus will bring about harm to surrounding areas As I’m sure The Spectrum knows, Robert Spencer, known bigot and Islamophobe, is coming to UB and the university is allowing his presence on our campus; a campus of diversity, where the Muslim population grows dramatically every year and Muslim students of every nationality leave their own countries to study in America. The America they came to study in doesn’t support bigotry, and their university wouldn’t allow for the use of hate speech on the very campus where hundreds of international students spend their days and nights.

This letter is brought on behalf of various clubs on campus and 1000+ students, faculty and staff who all believe strongly that a speaker such as Robert Spencer

on campus will bring about harm to the surrounding areas. Speakers like Robert Spencer only do two things: rile up bigots, and annoy the people those bigots discriminate against.

Although yes, we should be having dialogues about these issues, we cannot have one-sided debates.

Alyssa Biniewski, from the UB Undergraduate Society of Feminists, spells it out quite clearly, by saying, “There is plenty of opportunity for academic debate, discussion, and disagreement on this campus.

Under no circumstances is there an excuse for welcoming/funding blatant and dangerous hate-speech that stigmatizes a particular population of our students.”

As students, we understand that people do have free speech and are allowed to exercise that right, but should the university allow a hate mongerer to spread his message on campus and around our community? Many of UB’s students, from the Muslim Student Association, the UB Sanctuary Campus Initiative, UB Feminist Society and even faculty, like Professor Carl Nightingale, from the Transnational Studies department, who said, “University scholars should stand up to this ill-meaning attack on their basic values not so much by stepping into its sponsors’ trap and forbidding events like this (unless verifiable possibility of associated violence can be established), but by confidently and publically clarifying the distinction be-

a higher chance of scoring.

At department stores, there are two types of shoppers. There are those who know what they want and those who don’t.

Most thrifters are a combination of these two categories. When I walk into the thrift shop, I always have a general idea of what I’m looking for. Do I always find exactly what I’m looking for? No, but that’s what makes it so exciting.

I could walk in and make a mental note that I’m looking for bandtees or button downs. Most likely, I’ll come out with a mix of the two, as well as something that I never anticipated finding.

It’s a rush finding something you never knew you wanted. That’s what thrift shopping is for. It’s really just a treasure hunt – giving shoppers a surprise in every corner.

The only legitimate downside to thrifting would have to be leaving the store with nothing. This can happen, but it doesn’t mean that the next store doesn’t have something waiting for you.

Each weekend I walk around stores full of other people’s unwanted belongings. But hey, I guess one man’s trash really is another man’s treasure. email: arts@ubspectrum.com

tween real scholarship on the one hand and, on the other, the carnivalbarking and provocation offered by paid shills like Mr. Spencer.”

With all of this support on our campus to keep people like Robert Spencer away from our campus, we will be holding a sit in at the event, a table in the Knox hallway, telling people the truth behind Spencer and urging people who don’t believe what he says to not go into this event. We will be using our freedom of speech against him and his posse and will be holding an event targeted at debunking him and taking away any credibility he may have May 3rd, two days after his event.

Thank you, Muslim Student Association UB Sanctuary Campus Initiative Black Student Union UB Undergraduate Society of Feminists

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Aesthetic THE SPECTRUM

Albright-Knox receives historic donation Illustrious artist leaves her estate to the museum

How to develop your own signature style

ASHLEY INKUMSAH SENIOR NEWS EDITOR

When people hear my high heels clink from a distance and spot a butterscotch blonde donned in a loose-fit romper, they know I’ve entered the room.

I’m slightly embarrassed to say I regularly agonize over my outfits in the morning.

I often change my outfit up to five times until I find the right one. I struggle to shut my drawer filled with clothes with the tags still on them on a daily basis. I’ve Facetimed friends in a panic for second opinions on my outfits before I go out.

I’ve missed classes because I couldn’t decide on what to wear.

I meticulously flat iron my hair with a 1 3/4 inch Conair Infiniti Pro and a ½ inch mini Bellami straightener strictly for my baby hairs every single day. Right as my arms begin to cramp up and lose circulation, I reach for my 1 ½ BabyLiss Titanium Pro curling wand to give me California beach waves.

I have issues.

My sense of style is unique and admittedly probably too much for the average sane

person. Every now and then, I wish I was a normal college girl who could reach for a tshirt and a pair of leggings and call it a day, but here are some tips for the compulsive fashionista who craves to be snatched from head to toe in her own unique way.

Wear what makes you feel confident Two years ago on my 20th birthday, I decided I would wear heels every day for the rest of my life. Wearing heels makes me feel confident so it’s worth the daily foot aches and occasional fumbling down staircases all in the name of fashion.

It’s important to wear things that make you feel confident. But confidence is relative to a person. Having your own signature style means you make the rules to your own fashion game. Whether you’re a street fashion Doc Martin girl or a bohemian flower crown girl next door, you should find staple items of clothing and always own it.

Know what colors compliment your skin tone My warm skin tone makes bright summer colors like yellow and peachy pink colors pop. Every time I go shopping, I immediately gravitate toward these colors. Finding your undertone can cut your shopping time in half and can also help you get rid of old clothes in your closet that never see the light of day. The average woman wears only about 20 percent of her closet and finding your undertone helps you get rid of all the fluff that’s just catching dust.

The “vein test” is a tried and true method of discovering your undertone. If your veins are more on the blue side, you most likely have cool undertones. If you have a cool undertone, colors like red and blue are your best friends. If your veins are more on the green side, you most likely have a warm undertone. If your veins are don’t fall under

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ASHLEY INKUMSAH, THE SPECTRUM

Romper: Boohoo | Shoes: H&M

either of these you get to reap the rewards of cool and warm undertones.

Look for fashion inspiration I spent winter break of my sophomore year binge-watching “Gossip Girl” on Netflix and it immediately galvanized my sense of style. When I returned to school that winter, I became obsessed with wool-blend coats and over-the-knee boots. I quickly started sporting timeless classy pieces like blazers and pencil skirts.

Style inspiration is all around you whether it’s on your favorite T.V. show, Instagram or Pinterest. Developing your signature look means finding inspiration and putting your own distinctive twists on them.

Express yourself and have fun Even though I often tend to overthink my hair, makeup and fashion choices, style should always be fun. Your individual style is a form of artistic self-expression. The way you express yourself doesn’t need anyone’s approval but your own. In Lady Gaga’s song “Fashion,” she commands her listeners to “step into the room like it’s your catwalk” and whether you’re going to The Steer, Wegmans or your 8 a.m., class you can always treat the room like it’s your runway. email: ashley.inkumsah@ubspectrum.com

The Albright-Knox Art Gallery has received its largest single donation of art in its 155-year history.

Marisol, a French artist who passed away last April, donated her estate to the museum. The collection represents the entirety of Marisol’s 60-year career and includes upward of 100 sculptures, 150 works on paper, thousands of photos and slides and a small collection of works from other artists that Marisol had collected.

“Marisol helped define the 1960s through her innovative and groundbreaking work, emerging as one of the most prominent artists of her generation,” said Janne Sirén, the Peggy Pierce Elfvin Director of the Albright-Knox Art Gallery, in a press release. “The Albright-Knox is proud to have been the first museum to acquire Marisol’s work, having purchased her sculptures The Generals from her solo show at the Stable Gallery in 1962 and Baby Girl in 1964. We are moved, and profoundly grateful, that Marisol was similarly proud of her association with the Albright-Knox and took the extraordinary step of leaving her estate to our museum.”

Less than a year ago, Albright-Knox received its largest financial donation of $42.5 million by Jeffrey Gundrach, a billionaire and Amherst native.

Marisol’s Tribeca loft is also awaiting sale. The proceeds for the sale – estimated to be $4-5 billion – will be added to the Gallery’s capital for AK360 – an expansion project, which will include a gallery named in Marisol’s honor. email: david.garcia@ubspectrum.com

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ANGELA BARCA, THE SPECTRUM

UB alumnus Rashaad Holley works on an original article of clothing. Holley recently won Best Collection at Buffalo State’s Runway 10 fashion show.

Vingt Cinq Buffalo-born designer stays true to his roots MAX KALNITZ SENIOR ARTS EDITOR

Rashaad Holley wants the number 25 to symbolize a rebirth of black males.

Holley’s brand, Vingt Cinq, means 25 in French and represents an important age for black men in the U.S., due to inner-city violence.

“There’s a popular Kanye lyric, ‘I wasn’t

supposed to make it past 25, guess what, I’m still alive’ and that stuck with me,” Holley, a Buffalo State student and UB alumnus, said. “There are no fashion designers coming from the part of Buffalo where I grew up. Me aspiring to be one is different, it’s not something that kids think about being.”

Holley graduated from UB in 2016 with a degree in business focused in marketing. Instead of entering the workforce, he decided

to pursue a second degree in apparel design within the Fashion and Textile Technology department at Buffalo State.

Holley’s goal is to “bring luxury to the urban look.” He’s taken the roughness of the eastside of Buffalo and uses it as inspiration for his clothing line. His great aunt’s death and his distance from his birth father showed him the importance of familial bonds and guided him through his work.

“People always say my garments are clean and I like that a lot because that’s not something you generally think comes out of the ghetto and that’s exactly where they’re from and where I’m from,” Holley said.

But Holley didn’t always a see clean path in front of him.

In 2015, Holley worked for a local street wear startup on the eastside of Buffalo while managing the business. After a disagreement with his colleague, the two parted ways.

Holley went in his own direction.

He was out of work and decided to help his cousin run an afterschool sewing workshop with her elementary school students.

“That got me into it and taught me how to utilize a sewing machine,” Holley said. “After I parted ways with my old business partner, I decided I wanted to take what I was looking forward to doing with that company and make my own articles of clothing.”

Holley started teaching himself how to design and make clothing by watching YouTube videos.

His first fashion show was the Black Student Union’s Black Explosion fashion show in 2016, during his senior year at UB. He now displays his works at multiple shows each semester. On April 22, he won both Best Student Collection and Best Collection at Buffalo State’s Runway 10 show, where he beat competitors and alumni from as far as Beijing.

Erin Habes, professor and coordinator of the fashion show at Buffalo State, said Holley’s achievements are monumental for a first-year student.

“The students that usually win this show have been here for a couple of years,” Habes said. “For Rashaad to do what he’s done in one year has impressed everybody and deserved to win. The fact that he won both student and overall awards is very rare, but I’m not surprised.”

CONTINUED ON PAGE 7

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Holley is a student in Habes’ Intro to Fashion class. Since most students in the class are freshmen, Holley’s work stuck out from day one.

“He’s got the drive and hustle, which is exciting to see, he’s in it to win it, hard work paying off,” Fabes said. “Rashaad has an incredible style and a level of luxury that he brings to his sportswear collection. I appreciate his sense of color and the fabric he uses. Even though his shirts are simple crew jerseys, the quality he puts in makes them exceptional.”

Holley draws inspiration from designers across multiple genres. Vera Wang, Karl Lagerfeld, Jerry Lorenzo and Coco Chanel are among his favorites.

Music also plays an important role in Holley’s designing process. Whenever he’s working on a garment, he sometimes plays a song or album for hours on repeat.

“I personally love listening to one song 10 times in a row, I let the music tell my story,” Holley said. “You have to walk to music on the runway, I have to utilize music to dictate my style.”

Throughout his progression as a designer, the time it takes to make each article of clothing has dropped drastically.

“It was taking me between six hours and two days to complete a project,” Holley said. I’ve cut it down considerably, now a tshirt only takes an hour or two depending on how complex I’m making it.”

Holley added that if he’s learning a new technique or trying an intricate design, the process can still take him multiple hours to complete a garment.

But it didn’t start off so easy.

Holley grew up without knowing his father and relied heavily on his friends and family to get through rough patches in his life. Now, he dedicates his work to live up to their expectations.

“I don’t even know my father’s name, so growing up, I took a strong dependence on my friends,” Holley said. “It’s part of our culture, the friends in your neighborhood are family. Now that I’ve matured, I still have those bonds and it’s a real blessing since a lot of people don’t have real friends.”

Holley’s biggest inspiration is his great aunt Ruth who passed away in 2008. She raised him, his mother and grandfather. After every major accomplishment, he pays tribute by visiting her grave and leaving a copy of a program from his most recent show.

“She was my parent, she was the love that I needed growing up,” Holley said. “Everything that I do, every little bit of me and who I am is a reflection of her and I really work to make her proud.”

Holley also draws support from the models he uses during his shows. He described them as a family. They’re there for him within a day’s notice if he needs them to model.

Mohamet Mbaye, a sophomore business administration major at Buffalo State, has modeled for Holley four times and de-

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scribed him as “one of the humblest, genuine people” he knows.

“He’s my favorite designer that I’ve modeled for, he’s super appreciative of everything we do and he’s hard working. The clothing he creates for me is never going to be below my expectations,” Mbaye said.

“Every time he calls and asks me to model for him, I don’t even think twice about it.”

Mbaye describes Holley’s presence backstage as calm and collected. Some of the model’s best memories with Holley have been the moments before walking the runway.

“He puts so much trust in us, it takes all the stress away from doing these shows,” Mbaye said. “He tells us to go out there and have fun, he’s supportive of us being ourselves on the runway.”

Holley finishes his program next year, but is unsure what his plans are once he graduates.

“The world is my oyster, as long as I continue to work hard, the possibilities are endless and I really don’t know where they’re going to take me,” Holley said. “I want to stay close to the streets and everyone that I love and be a positive role model for everyone that believed in me.”

Holley thanks God, his friends, family and all of his supporters for constantly believing in him.

“At the end of the day, it doesn’t matter where you came from, how old you are, you can be whatever you want to be,” Holley said. email: max.kalnitz@ubspectrum.com

I want to stay close to the streets and everyone that I love and be a positive role model for everyone that believed in me.

”

ANGELA BARCA, THE SPECTRUM

Rashaad Holley wears a shirt from his Vingt Cinq line. His goal is to “bring luxury to the urban look.”

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8

STYLE ISSUE

Thursday, April 27, 2017

THE SPECTRUM

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9 Getting dressed and going to town STYLE ISSUE

Thursday, April 27, 2017

THE SPECTRUM

The role of costumes in ‘My Fair Lady’ MADDY FOWLER ASST. NEWS EDITOR

Leah Berst believes “My Fair Lady” is a fairytale. Throughout the play, her character Eliza Doolittle wears several decadent costumes fit for a princess.

Berst, a senior musical theater major, said the costumes help her embody the iconic Eliza.

“These costumes are period costumes and the show is set in 1912, so the authenticity of the character shines with the costumes…the costumes bring the reality of the time period into your body and reflect the character’s lifestyles,” Berst said.

UB students in the Theatre & Dance Department will present “My Fair Lady” on April 28-30 and May 5-7 at the Center for the Arts Drama Theatre. The play is set in 1912 and tells the classic rags-to-riches tale of Eliza Doolittle, a Cockney flower girl who takes speech lessons from Professor Henry Higgins in order to pass as a high society lady.

Bethany Kasperek, a senior theatre design technology major and costume designer for “My Fair Lady,” helped bring the fairytale to life with over 25 costumes.

The costumes play a role of their own and make a huge difference for the actors; Kasperek said the first dress rehearsal was a “total transformation.”

“From the moment the actors put on the [costumes], they acted differently… it really helps them with their own characterization, which is nice to see,” Kasperek said.

Donna Massimo, costume shop manager, also feels the costumes add a certain spark to the actors’ performances.

“What it does is broaden their performance. They stand differently, they walk differently. Wearing clothing from a different

period definitely changes things — I mean, for a guy today to not be wearing sneakers and jeans is different, it changes how they feel about their exterior,” Massimo said.

When the actors’ put the costumes on, they’re instantly transformed into aristocrats and Cockneys in 1912 England.

“The guy who plays Colonel Pickering, he was in a suit and he acted more stern and military [when he put his costume on.] And then the woman who plays the housekeeper, she was more brittle and was holding her back straight,” Kasperek said.

Kasperek said silhouettes are the biggest challenge with outfitting this time period.

Edwardian ladies favored a decadent sway back look with bustles, whereas Cockneys can have more relaxed silhouettes, Massimo said.

Men’s pants were tailored differently in the Edwardian era, so trying to find pants that are not too flared for the ’70s or too skinny for modern times was a challenge.

Kasperek said the key is to find the balance of modern clothing that can look period.

The costumes also illustrate the social class differences of the time period, Kasperek said. She said the materials and the quality of what the actors are wearing helps set the two worlds apart.

“The goal is to have the aristocrats look perfect, they’re like China dolls, they’re beautiful dolls. And the Cockneys — they’re grimy, but they’re not dirty — they’re earthy, I put them in a lot of earth tones. They just look like real people,” Kasperek said.

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This contrast is especially evident in Eliza Doolittle’s stunning transformation. “[Eliza] goes from this ratty skirt and jacket and she has dirt on her face and this ratty hat and then she transforms into beautiful, elegant top notch clothes,” Kasperek said.

Kasperek describes the ball scene as the “pinnacle” of the play. Eliza wears a spectacular blue silk gown with intricate gold detailing. A tiara completes her look and she wears elegant jewels so everyone thinks she is a princess.

Kasperek feels the ball gown versus the opening is like two different words and embodies Eliza’s rags-to-riches transformation.

“The director keeps referring to it as a fairytale — it is a fairytale story. And I think that Eliza’s ball gown really helps with that fairytale because it looks like a Cinderella dress,” Kasperek said.

Massimo feels Eliza’s true “Cinderella” moment actually happens after the ball, when she is having a candid conversation with Mrs. Higgins. This is the first time Eliza is able to speak like a proper lady with ease.

Eliza is then comfortable in high-class clothing, and Massimo said it reflects her new self-confidence and outlook for the future.

“She wears this adorable pink suit with classic lines and she’s just looking like she fits in, but she hasn’t forgotten where she comes from and I think that’s a sweet way of reflecting on her transition,” Massimo said.

Berst gushed about the rosy pink suit’s “elegant” lace details, “dainty” gloves and “magnificent hat” with flowers on it. Berst said the

ANGELA BARCA, THE SPECTRUM

(top left) Costume designer Bethany Kasperek drew up over 25 costume design ideas for “My Fair Lady.” (top right) A costume assistant works on an elaborate hat for an aristocratic character. (bottom) An array of authentic period costumes transport the actors to 1912 England.

suit and hat serve as a homage to the flower girl Eliza is at the beginning of the show.

Berst believes the ensemble visually brings Eliza’s transformation full-circle.

“It is the perfect outfit for an independent, transformed and bold woman…bringing together her past and her present [and] showing that she is a new woman, a true lady with the fiery spirit she has always had,” Berst said. *Editor’s note: Actors could not be photographed in costume prior to the show’s official opening due to stage manager’s policy. email: maddy.fowler@ubspectrum.com

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STYLE ISSUE

Thursday, April 27, 2017

THE SPECTRUM

Self-made and in Vogue UB senior emphasizes the importance of confidence in her clothing line BENJAMIN BLANCHET ASST. ARTS EDITOR

TROY WACHALA, THE SPECTRUM

Keji Omoboni Jones wears an African print off the shoulder top and skirt. The designer started her line, KOJ Designs, June of last year.

Keji Omoboni Jones believes everyone is royalty.

Omoboni Jones, a senior sociology and business major, takes from hairstyles, prints and her Nigerian culture and transforms them into elegant, wearable pieces.

Despite her adoration for fashion, her parents thought she’d be better suited to study medicine or pharmacy in college.

“I would always tell my mom, ‘No, I’m not doing that,’ and then last year it came to the point when I started my brand,” Omoboni Jones said. “I hadn’t started any of this prior to last year. I would never make clothes. I always had a sewing machine but I would never really make clothes because I didn’t know if I was good or not.”

But she trusts the process.

She invests her time into making each piece. Purses take about two hours to make and more complicated dresses take about three days to prepare. After all the pinning, cutting and sewing, she still finds time to take pictures of models sporting her clothing.

Her clothing line, KOJ Designs, began in June 2016. Since establishing her brand, she’s been featured in the African Student Association’s (ASA) annual fashion show and won SUNY Oswego’s Battle of the Designers on April 7.

Omoboni Jones’ KOJ Designs is the product of effort and how seriously she takes her craft.

“I’m starting from the bottom, from nothing. I didn’t have anything when I started my line. I just did it and I’m doing it by myself,” Omoboni Jones said.

KOJ Designs’ collections include an array of chokers, off-the-shoulder tops, purses and pants. The designer finds fabrics that compliment not just black skin but people of any color.

On her website, pieces like her “Silk me down” tops and pants exhibit elegance through light tones and precise form. Maxi dresses like her “Titi” piece have African cut fabric center-stage in a palette of purples, yellows and browns.

Pieces on the website are priced anywhere from $32.99 off-the-shoulder tops to $89.99 African-inspired “Iro & Bubba” wear.

Omoboni Jones is inspired by an array of designers, including Chanel. She finds that European brands such as Prada attract customers solely off their quality, which she hopes to emulate.

“I want to have luxury clothing that people could actually afford. The quality of Chanel but it’s going to be the price of Macy’s,” Omoboni Jones said.

The designer has style in her blood – her mother was once a model and her father buys and sells luxury fashion brands.

Omoboni Jones was born in the U.S., but she lived in Nigeria from eight years old until she was 17.

“In Nigeria, they’re very vibrant with the way they are and dress, they just like to stand out,” Omoboni Jones said.

CONTINUED ON PAGE 11

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11

STYLE ISSUE

Thursday, April 27, 2017

THE SPECTRUM

“

I want to have luxury clothing that people could actually afford. The quality of Chanel but it’s going to be the price of Macy’s, Omoboni Jones said.

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 12

COURTESY OF KEJI OMOBONI JONES

Models wear clothing from KOJ Designs, a line created by Keji Omoboni Jones. The designer was featured in last year’s ASA fashion show and won SUNY Oswego’s “Battle of the Designers” on April 7.

After creating KOJ Designs, she took part in ASA’s fashion show last fall and received positive feedback on her newly created line.

“My mom started telling me I should go to fashion school, [and] she finally agreed that I would do it,” Omoboni Jones said.

In 2013, Omoboni Jones helped found UB’s Fashion Student Association (FSA) along with former student Moriel Wimes.

Today, the club still runs strong because of the foundations set by early members.

Emily Li, a senior pharmaceutical science major, was the club’s first photographer.

During the club’s first years, Li and Kassandra Hazlehurst, a senior architecture major, would go around campus taking pictures of students’ most stylish outfits.

“We’d put the pictures on our social [media] as a way to promote that, on-campus, there were still people that dress up really nicely,” Li said.

Gisselle Taylor, a senior environmental studies major, is the vice president of FSA. Taylor saw the perseverance both Omoboni Jones and Wimes had in their initiative to create the club.

“There were many people in the past that attempted to make a fashion club here on campus, but ultimately never followed through,” Taylor said. “To be so closely related to the people that had the drive and commitment to follow through, where so many others did not, is a huge source of inspiration for me.”

Taylor first met Omoboni Jones her sophomore year through her friends on FSA’s

”

e-board. Currently, she’s interested in the designer’s work and its true reflection of whom she has come to know.

“In my opinion, the authenticity, gracefulness, Afrocentrism and regal aura of the clothing Keji makes is what sets her line apart,” Taylor said.

Ali Ruiz, a freshman DMS and psychology major, is the publicity coordinator for FSA. Ruiz met Omoboni Jones in her basic video class this semester and since then has modeled for KOJ Designs.

“Meeting Keji was very important for me and we agree on a lot of things – visually and art wise,” Ruiz said. “Her clothing is very affordable and she makes custom pieces, which is something that not a lot of designers do. She puts her all into every piece she makes, she will envision something and whenever somebody really wants it, she will bring it to life.”

Ruiz realized she wants to pursue a modeling career after modeling for KOJ. “I was always insecure about modeling because of my height. People would say I should model because I had the look but I was [too] insecure,” Ruiz said. “Keji helped me understand that I can do it.”

Emphasizing confidence is at the core of her line. The designer can see it in the models who wear her clothing: a glamorous feeling which clothing has provided them.

“We’re all royalty – if you want to be royalty, you will be royalty,” Omoboni Jones said. “It doesn’t have to be by blood, it comes from you. You don’t have to wear diamonds, gold and all that stuff – it’s just

you. That motivation should try to create an effort because, at the end of the day, anything you want in this world you can get it – you just have to look good.” email: benjamin.blanchet@ubspectrum.com

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12

STYLE ISSUE

Thursday, April 27, 2017

THE SPECTRUM

Inked-up

Students discuss how body modifications play into their future plans LINDSAY GILDER ASST. FEATURES EDITOR

Jess Trainor would rather not work than work a job that made her hide her tattoos.

Trainor, a junior health and human services major, has a tattoo on each arm, a quote across her back and plans to get a new one each year. She currently works with autistic children and hopes to work someday as a children’s social worker.

Trainor doesn’t think she should have to conform to a corporate work policy in order to have a job she enjoys. And she is not alone – nearly half of millennials have at least one tattoo, according to a 2015 survey from The Harris Poll. Tattoos are gaining acceptance in the workplace, but “highly visible” tattoos can still have a negative impact, especially in jobs requiring customer relations.

“So far, I haven’t worked anywhere where they care [about my tattoos]” Trainor said.

“I worked in an office at UB last year with pink and green hair and no one even said anything to me about it.”

Jenna Smith, the coordinator of assessment and marketing of Career Services, recommends hiding tattoos for interviews, but stressed that dress codes can vary depending on the industry and desired image.

“Do research on the company, understand the culture and connect with people who work there,” Smith said. “Be profes-

TROY WACHALA, THE SPECTRUM

Kaia Grosso shows off their tattoos and piercings. Grosso discusses the importance of tattoos and their self-expression.

sional until you find out the attitude in the workplace.”

Kaia Grosso has nine tattoos, multi-colored hair and facial piercings, but isn’t concerned about how it will affect their future.

“I really just like the idea of destigmatizing the idea of body modifications in the workplace,” Grosso said. “It doesn’t make anyone less professional in my opinion, it’s all about the work and ethic you have.”

Grosso, a senior environmental geoscience major, identifies as gender neutral and got their first tattoo of a sound amp on their chest, which was inspired by album artwork they like.

They also have tattoos across their toes, with plans to continue to cover their body.

In addition to tattoos, they have a multi-

tude of piercings, including ear piercings, gauges and a septum piercing.

“I’m definitely, once I have money, planning on getting ‘tatted’ everywhere,” Grosso said. “I’m planning on doing lots of field research and stuff like that, so it won’t really be a big office setting. Even so, a lot of these piercings are easy to take out or hide [if necessary].”

Although the tattoos are in concealable locations, the ink is art that shouldn’t be covered, Grosso said.

M&T Bank’s corporate headquarters are in Buffalo and nearly 700 UB alumni work there, according to LinkedIn. The company has no corporate policy regarding tattoos.

“There is no corporate policy as long as the employee dresses and acts in a professional manner,” a human resources representative said.

Grace Zabielski, a sophomore environmental design and art major, has been dying her hair since she was 16. She works at Starbucks in The Commons and receives compliments on her purple hair or wrist tattoo, but has found that she can be perceived differently because of it.

“I feel like some people think I look like a rebel, I feel like it’s fun and some people au-

tomatically assume things about people with crazy hair and lots of piercings and I don’t think they should,” Zabielski said.

She was excited when Starbucks changed their policies for dyed hair last summer, but knows her unique hairstyles have an expiration date. Zabielski intends on dying it to either her natural color or a more-natural shade for professional jobs to prevent any misconceptions about her work ethic.

“I don’t know if I would go into a job with colored hair, because I feel like that automatically presumes the idea of maybe not being a stable person,” Zabielski said.

Despite the stigma, Smith mentioned that body modifications are more acceptable if they are incorporated into your “personal brand,” or how an applicant chooses to portray themselves to potential employers. “[Employers] are more inclined to be accepting of a tattoo if there’s a reason it connects to the person you’re hiring,” Smith said.

She explained that these “personal brand” tattoos could even give students an edge, since it makes them unique and provides the employer with insight into personal depth. email: lindsay.gilder@ubspectrum.com

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13

STYLE ISSUE

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THE SPECTRUM

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14

STYLE ISSUE

Thursday, April 27, 2017

Offensive lineman Paul Nosworthy shows off his personal style THOMAS ZAFONTE

ASST. SPORTS EDITOR

Paul Nosworthy may be the only student on campus whose backpack costs more than the textbooks it carries.

His MCM backpack is made entirely of leather, has a light blue exterior and handcrafted zipper work.

It cost him $1,200.

While expensive, that is a price Nosworthy is used to. Nosworthy, a sophomore offensive lineman, has a wardrobe that perfectly matches his fashion taste.

THE SPECTRUM

ANGELA BARCA, THE SPECTRUM

(left) Sophomore offensive lineman Paul Nosworthy in a New York Islanders Jersey.

He often sports New York jerseys during the summer. (right) Nosworthy shows off his $1,200 MCM backpack.

“I never take anything out I just keep adding to it, I have over 70 pairs of shoes,” Nosworthy said. “It’s got brands from Fendi, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Yeezys, Jordans, Adidas, like it is just an enormous amount of clothes.”

The shoes are just the start of Nosworthy’s closet – something even he has trouble grasping the size of.

Nosworthy’s constant buying comes from his desire to be different.

“I like different stuff that people don’t wear, different shoes, different jeans,” Nosworthy said. “If I see someone else wearing it, then I am probably going to get something different. I want to do things my way so people might feed off of me. I like to be a leader. You’ll see a bunch of people wearing BAIT, nah not me, I don’t own BAIT.” Nosworthy’s style doesn’t go over his teammates head’s either. Freshman running

back Theo Anderson considers his teammate’s style to be authentic.

“His style is like no other. I seen him wear Gucci, Balenciaga, True Religion, the best of the best designer clothing,” Anderson said.

Nosworthy, a native of Jamaica, Queens, has strived to be different since a young age.

He can remember trying on his father’s own Gucci shoes when he was in middle school.

Nosworthy’s father is a music producer in New York City, so he has been around highend clothing for much of his life, while also having the means to buy them.

“He put the idea to be different in my head and just seeing the way he dressed really made me want to be different with my style,” Nosworthy said.

Growing up in New York helped shape Nosworthy’s style and he admits the city has been a major influence.

FROM TRASH

TO CASH UB business student makes $15,000 in one year selling vintage clothes on eBay MICHAEL AKELSON SENIOR SPORTS EDITOR

Evan Tirsun wanted to use the summer between his junior and senior year to gain hands-on business experience.

When a few financial internships fell through at the last minute, he worried he had lost that opportunity – until his girlfriend took him to a thrift shop for the first time.

Tirsun came across a retro Marshall Faulk St. Louis Rams jersey at the Savers near his hometown for $4 and made an impulsive buy. When he got home, he realized he would never wear it and figured he would try to sell it on eBay to get a few bucks back.

He looked up the Faulk jersey and was shocked to find that the same one had recently sold for $50. Later that day, he put the jersey up on a “buy it now or best offer” for $100, thinking there was no way it would sell.

A few hours later, he got an offer for $76.

It didn’t take long for Tirsun to realize he had found a unique way to supplement his education with real-world experience while making some money.

“I started thinking, if I go thrifting, maybe I can find some good stuff to sell, but I didn’t think it would be an actual idea. I was just like ‘let me see if I can do it a couple of times,’” Tirsun said. “So I went and bought a few cool jerseys for between two and five bucks, then put them on eBay and they went very fast and I was shocked... I didn’t know who would buy something like that, a used basketball or football jersey.”

Tirsun, a senior finance major at UB,

KAINAN GUO, THE SPECTRUM

Senior finance student Evan Tirsun sits with some of his inventory. Tirsun has made around $15,000 in sales in the past 11 months.

started his eBay store called The Jersey Movement last May after selling a few jerseys he had found at the thrift. In the past 11 months, he netted roughly $15,000 in sales on over 1,200 transactions while remaining a full-time student.

His average profit margin per item has been 62 percent after shipping and listing fees. He spends about eight hours a week on the business when he’s at school.

His girlfriend, Danielle Levy, lives on Long Island where Tirsun grew up. The two have been together since high school and run the business together, splitting all profits 50-50. The two split most of the duties such as shipping, listing and shopping for products. Levy sells “girly stuff ” like makeup and women’s clothes.

The business began specializing in retro jer-

seys, but soon expanded into other types of vintage streetwear and eventually into “anything [they] could sell.” His store most commonly sells brands such as Nike, Adidas, Stussy, Champion, Supreme, Bape and Jordan.

Although they do sometimes make larger purchases – most notably a pair of Yeezy’s they flipped for a $400 profit on the same day – Tirsun and Levy typically get most of their products at thrift shops.

Tirsun has always had a knack for finding ways to make money within his hobbies.

“I’ve always kind of wanted to make money unconventionally you could say,” Tirsun said.

When he was 10 years old, he began going to card shows with his mom to buy cards he liked. But his focus shifted one day when he

Through his father, he has had the opportunity to meet stylish New York rappers including Jadakiss of The Lox. “That New York style is so broad, it is so many tastes and styles in it but it perfectly reflects what the city is,” Nosworthy said. “Over the summer, I like to wear jerseys, hockey, basketball, any New York team gear is a personal favorite. Islanders jerseys, Rangers jerseys, Mets jerseys, Knicks jerseys, I like that blue orange scheme, makes it feel like New York stuff.”

Nosworthy doesn’t settle for knock offs either – he only buys high-quality clothing.

“I was told at a young age that if you can’t afford it, don’t buy it,” Nosworthy said. “So if I can’t afford the real thing I don’t get the fake one.”

Nosworthy looks at both the world of sports and hip-hop for his fashion idols.

He considers Fabolous and Drake to be the best-dressed rappers in the game and appreciates Russell Westbrook and Cam Newton’s personal styles.

Nosworthy tries to enjoy his own fashion, but knows the expectations that come with it.

“It’s like showing up and saying ‘I am the man’ with the way you dress, but if you dress that way, you best make sure you back it up,” Nosworthy said. email: thomas.zafonte@ubspectrum.com

came across an autographed rookie card of his favorite basketball player John Wall.

The card cost $100 and his allowance wasn’t going to cut it. Tirsun went home and did extensive research on the cards he did have. At the next show, he walked around making deals on his cards with older men who sold cards for a living.

By the end of the show, he had enough money for the Wall card.

“When [Evan] puts his mind to making money, anything is possible,” said Josh Weil, a childhood friend and former co-worker of Tirsun’s. “He is the only person I know that can have a finance background, a killer instinct and still be a clown and have other people’s interests in minds. Finance and selling are a dog-eat-dog world and Evan does not let it get to him.”

Tirsun quickly gained a reputation in the card industry as a savvy seller with good interpersonal skills, despite his young age. Soon, he caught the attention of one of the vendors, a business owner named Steve Rosenblum.

Rosenblum asked Tirsun to come work for his business SMR Collectibles.

Tirsun started working for Rosenblum for four hours after school every day during his freshman year of high school. One of Tirsun’s main roles at the company was a task Rosenblum called “eBay research,” where Tirsun looked up products on eBay and determined what value they could sell for.

By the time he was 13, Tirsun was trusted to make major transactions for the company in fast paced, high-pressure situations. “[Steve] used to bring me to card shows and he would just hand me a pile of money, basically be like $5,000 he would just hand me. He would say ‘take this money, don’t lose it, put it in your pocket, if you need to buy anything or you need change it’s all in this big wad of cash,’” Tirsun said.

Tirsun hopes to continue to expand his business when he has more time this summer.

He currently has around 150 products listed at a time, but wants to have anywhere from 350500 at a time this summer. Although many successful vintage clothing stores have begun popping up across the country, Tirsun does not see himself going that route.

Although he has one more semester at UB, his next goal is to land a job where he can help other people make money too. “[I want to] probably work for a big financial company, a bank, maybe work on Wall Street,” Tirsun said. “But this can always be a side business, it’s something where you can go out for two hours a week, you can put up 15 items that you find and on the 15 items you can make a $200 profit and for not a lot of work, you’re working for yourself too.” email: michael.akelson@ubspectrum.com