THE
TEXTILE MAGAZINE
Contents 6 Editorial
budget 2013 8 Anand Sharma hails Budget offer of weaver loans at very low rate
18
10 Budget will surely aid speedy industry recovery, says CITI chief 20 ITAMMA chief’s mixed reaction to Budget proposals 46 Need to maintain cotton textile export growth momentum
28 NSL
India’s fastest growing textile conglomerate
Benninger teams up with Voltas to expand Indian textile equipment market share
40
plant modernisation 12 Plan to modernise 24 NTC mills
corporate 14 Savio takes over Mesdan S.p.A. 16 Welspun to expand cotton, yarn output 24 Groz-Beckert expands Indian operations 44 Nandan Exim’s massive expansion plan 86 Atlas Copco’s second compressor plant in India 88 Xetma Vollenweider fares well in 2012 2 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
HAS Group bullish on Indian market potential
Contents 54
Picanol India’s success story
innovation 26 Protector, Vimal’s yet another major fabric technology innovation 96 Invista offers high-performance socks technology with Coolmax Fabric
48
Invista’s Lycra Rendezvous takes denim industry by storm
78
exclusive 61 Shree Balaji partners Fong’s to set up modern yarn dyeing facility
man-made fibres 68 Oerlikon bullish on growth opportunities in man-made fibre business
knitting 76 Groz Beckert offers expertise to Tirupur knitters
spinning 82 Rieter J 20 air-jet spinning machine for new raw material applications 84 Naren products attract good customer demand
processing 90 Bianco, Unitech join forces for tubular box solution
international news 93 Weiqiao Textile fares extremely well
industry update 100 New schemes introduced to boost Textile exports 104 Men at the helm 4 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
MHM - The ‘Rolls Royce’ among screen printing machines
THE
TEXTILE MAGAZINE Publishers Gopali & Co., Quanta Zen Building, No.38, Thomas Road, 2nd Street, Off. South Boag Road, T.Nagar, Chennai-600017. Ph.: 24330979, 42024951. Fax: 044-24332413 Email: textile.magazine@gmail.com textile_magazine@rediffmail.com Website: www.indiantextilemagazine.in Founder M. Rajagopalan Mentor Rajagopalan Kalidasan Managing Editor & Publisher R. Natarajan (Mobile: 9381062161 (R) 24343475) Assistant Editor K.N. Ananthanarayanan (Mobile: 9003053132) Executive Editor & General Manager K. Gopalakrishnan (Mobile: 9840897542) N. Balasubramanian (Mobile: 9840597082) Email: balanatarajan.gopali@gmail.com Online & Digital Media Lakshmi Natarajan (Cell: 9884544953) Email: lakshmidotnatarajan@gmail.com Marketing G. Mohan N. Ananthan Designer E. Marimuthu Mumbai R. Balasubramanian G 102, Shrinagar Co.Op. Housing Society, P.L. Lokande Marg, Chembur (West), Mumbai - 400 089. Ph.: 022-25252377. Cell: 9323711291. Email: r.balagopali@gmail.com Coimbatore Ganesh Kalidasan Flat No.A1-42, TVH Ekanta No.5/179, Masakalipalayam Road Uppilipalayam, Coimbatore 641 015. Cell: 97909 26388 Email: ganesh.kalidas@gmail.com Bangalore J. Saravanam BS 23, 2nd Floor, Block ‘B’ Ittina Neela, Nr. Gold Coins Club, Andapura, Electronics City P.O., Bangalore - 560 100. Cell: 9880974765 Email: saravanam_j@yahoo.co.in Member INS / AINEC / IFSMAN Published by R. Natarajan from and on behalf of Gopali & Co., Quanta Zen Apartments, No.38/2, Thomas Road, 2nd Street, T.Nagar, Chennai-600017 and Printed by B. Ashok Kumar at Rathna Offset Printers, 40, Peters Road, Royapettah, Chennai-600014. Editor: R. Natarajan The views presented herein are those of the authors. They are not necessarily the views of the editor. All rights reserved. Neither this publication nor any part of it may be reproduced in any form or by any means, nor may it be printed, photocopied or stored on microfilm without the written permission of the publisher.
6 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
Budget bid for industry revival The Finance Minister, Mr. P. Chidambaram, did spring a surprise by presenting the Central Budget for 2013-14 which far exceeded the expectations of the ailing textile industry with a series of progressive measures for its speedy revival. Termed a positive package for accelerating the textile industry recovery, signs of which are amply evident in its performance since last few months, the Budget has, as expected, had its special thrust on the hitherto-neglected weaving sector. The special allotment of Rs. 2,400 crores for modernisation of powerlooms and the proviR. Natarajan, Managing Editor & Publisher sion of fresh working capital and term loans to the handloom sector at a substantially low rate of six per cent to benefit 1.5 lakh individual weavers and 1,800 primary cooperatives represent perhaps the first positive gesture by the UPA Government to improve the fortunes of the weaving community. A big boost to the apparel industry is assured by providing Rs. 50 crores to the Textile Ministry to facilitate setting up of apparel parks within the integrated textile parks. Again, for the first time, a Rs. 500-crore Integrated Processing Development Scheme has been initiated to address the environmental concerns of the textile industry as a whole. The proposal to continue the Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS) in the 12th Plan with an investment target of Rs. 1,50,000 crores and an allocation of Rs. 2,400 crores for 2013-14 would go a long way in modernising and updating the technology of textile units which have their renewed focus on technical textiles. Similarly, a cut in customs duty from 7.5 per cent to five per cent on textile machinery would help augment investments in the sector. Handmade carpets and textile floor coverings are now totally exempt from excise duty. There is high optimism on the export front too, with the Budget objective of helping the textile industry retain its status as the largest exchange earner for the country. Textile and clothing exports moved up from $22.41 billion in 2009-10 to $33.31 billion the next year. However a slight setback in exports was noticed in April-January 2013 due mainly to the slowdown in the traditional markets of the US and the EU, which together account for almost 60 per cent of India’s textile exports. Now Union Commerce Department sources confirm that overall exports from India to the two regions in the last 12 months are evidently on a recovery path, implying thereby the scope to vastly improve the individual share of textile exports.
Budget 2013
Anand Sharma hails Budget offer of weaver loans at very low rate holder consultations, we, under the Handloom Reservation of Articles for Production Act, 1985, propose to include hybrid looms where one of the three primary motions of shedding, picking and beating can be mechanical.” Mr. Sharma expressed the hope that this will greatly help weavers as this will not only be in sync with ground realities but also substantially reduce the drudgery associated with weaving. Further, this would be done without a conflict of interest with the hand-woven technique, which is the exclusive domain of this sector and also its core strength.
“This is perhaps for the first time that such a big policy roll out in sync with the demands of this community has been announced by any Government, and I am confident that this single policy initiative of the UPA Government will become a game changer for this sector. Our aim was to bring this at par with Khadi, and we have done this”. – Mr. Anand Sharma, Minister for Commerce, Industry & Textiles Mr. Anand Sharma, Minister for Commerce, Industry & Textiles, has welcomed the announcements made by the Finance Minister on the textiles sector in his Budget speech. Delivering the keynote address at the one-day conference on National Consultation on the Handloom Sector, Mr. Sharma said that the announcement for providing fresh working capital and term loans to weavers at a substantially low rate of only six per cent against the earlier high rate of 14 per cent without interest subvention or 11 per cent with three per cent interest subvention will benefit 1.5 lakh individual weavers and 1,800 primary co-operatives. He said the Textiles Ministry is in the process of making a paradigm shift in how it defines the handloom sector, without compromising on its core strength of being a hand-woven sector. “After intense stake8 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
Mr. Sharma proposed a new Comprehensive Integrated Handloom Cluster Scheme for 5,000 plus handlooms to complete the missing link in terms of providing infrastructure support to the handloom sector. He also proposed that the facility of making available at subsidised rates cotton and silk yarn under the 10 per cent price subsidy scheme for which a provision of Rs. 1,300 crores has been made in the financial package through the agency of the National Handloom Development Corporation (NHDC), be extended to other fibres like jute, wool and coir. “This will greatly benefit the large but scattered concentration of looms and weavers in the north-east region as there is also a 2.5 per cent transport subsidy available under this package.” Mr. Sharma further observed that in order to extend the outreach of the Handloom Package to cover more
Budget 2013 co-operative societies, “the Ministry has proposed certain amendments as demanded by a large number of States, whose Chief Ministers have written to me to relax the net worth and norms for potentially viable societies.” Commenting on the question of issuance of weavers credit cards, he said his Ministry, at a meeting with the CMDs of major nationalised banks, has conveyed to them that no stone should be left unturned in making credit available to weavers through a single window mechanism without undue hassle of filling up too many forms or making repeated visits to the banks. He promised weavers to review it on a fortnightly basis. Mr. Sharma also referred to the steps taken by the Government in making exports from this sector competitive in the international market. “To promote exports, several fiscal incentives and interventions have been provided under the Foreign Trade Policy. Kannoor in Kerala, Karur and Madurai in Tamil Nadu and Khekra in UP have been designated as Towns of Export Excellence. Moreover, two per cent interest subvention under the Focus Product Scheme has been extended to the handloom sector till March, 2014, to arrest decline in its exports which fell by 11 per cent last year. The Budget has also exempted hand-woven carpets from excise duty,” he added. w 10 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
Budget will surely aid speedy industry recovery, says CITI chief The Confederation of Indian Textiles Industry (CITI) has welcomed the 2013-14 Central Budget presented by the Finance Minister, Mr. P. Chidambaram, as a positive package for accelerating the recovery of the textiles industry. In a press release, Mr. S.V. Arumugam, CITI Chairman, stated that there have been signs of recovery in the industry for the past few months and some of the positive features of the Budget would help this process further. He said restoring the optional excise regime for branded garments and made-ups is a most positive factor in the Budget. This has been a long-standing demand of the industry. Also welcomed is the Budget announcement of continuation of the Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS) during the 12th Five-Year Plan and allocating Rs. 2,400 crores for it for 2013-14. Further, reduction of customs duty from 7.5 per cent to five per cent for textile machinery would help augment investments in the sector. Allocation of Rs. 50 crores for apparel parks, launching of an Integrated Processing Develop-
ment Scheme (IPDS), and the cut in interest on working capital and term loans to a concessional rate of six per cent for the handloom sector are the other attractive features of the Budget. Referring to the earlier demands of the textile sector, Mr. Arumugam stated that reduction in duty rates for man-made fibres and assistance to the industry to handle the precarious power situation have not been addressed by the Budget. However, he thanked the Finance Minister for the several positive measures incorporated in the Budget to ensure speedy recovery of the industry. w
plant modernisation
Plan to modernise
24 NTC mills
Mr. K. Ramachandran Pillai Chairman & Managing Director
As per the revival plan approved by the Board for Industrial & Financial Reconstruction (BIFR), National Textile Corporation Ltd. (NTC) is to revive 24 mills directly by itself. The revival scheme is self-financed through sale of surplus assets of NTC and no financial assistance has been provided by the Government. The main reason for the mills incurring losses are acute power cut resulting in under-utilisation of installed capacity and the perennial problem of labour shortage. Revival of NTC mills is as per the revival scheme approved by BIFR which, inter-alia, provides for funding of the scheme from the proceeds of the sale of surplus assets of NTC. There is no plan to revive any of the closed mills of the Corporation. w 12 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
The following are the mills covered under the proposed scheme: S. State-wise name of mills Status of revival based on No. steps taken by NTC KERALA 1 Alagappa Modernised 2 Cannanore, Cannanore Modernised 3 Kerala Lakshmi Modernised 4 Vijay Mohini Modernised MAHE 5 Cannanore Spg. & Wvg. Mills. Modernised ANDHRA PRADESH 6 Tirupathi Partially Modernised TAMIL NADU 7 Cambodia Modernised 8 Rangavilas Modernised 9 Pankaja Modernised 10 Pioneer Modernised 11 Kaleeswara’B’ Modernised 12 Coimbatore Murugan Modernised 13 Coimbatore Spgn. And Wving Partially Modernised KARNATAKA 14 New Minerva Modernised MAHARASHTRA 15 Tata Modernised 16 Podar Modernised 17 Indu No.5 Modernised 18 Barshi Modernised 19 Finlay (Achalpur) Modernised MADHYA PRADESH 20 New Bhopal Modernised 21 Burhanpur Tapti Modernised WEST BENGAL 22 Arati Modernised GUJARAT 23 Rajnagar Modernised The 24th unit is slated to be set up as a technical textile unit in Rajasthan
corporate
On February 26, Savio Macchine Tessili S.p.A. became the controlling shareholder of Mesdan S.p.A., with the support of the private equity fund Alpha, the major shareholder of the Savio Group. With this acquisition worth more than EUR 20 million, Savio aggregates in its group a company leader in the field of devices for yarn joining and testing instruments for textile laboratories. In line with the Savio Group philosophy, Mesdan, with a direct presence in China through a joint venture and with a subsidiary in India, will retain its autonomy with regard to the sales network and relations with its customers. Mesdan will be led by Mrs. Daniela Messa who has become the new CEO of the company in lieu of Mr. Renato Zanca, who has been Mesdan CEO for the past 33 years but will continue to be part of the Company Board of Directors. Mr. Lorenzo Miglioli will remain the General Manager of the company. With a 2011 turnover of EUR 460 million and 1469 employees worldwide, the Savio Group, founded in 1911 and based in Pordenone, is today the leader in the field of textile machinery for yarn finishing and control systems for the yarn quality with companies and plants in Italy, Switzerland, 14 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
Mr. Lorenzo Cucchetto, CEO, Savio Macchine Tessili SpA
Belgium, Germany, the UK, the US, China and India. This acquisition represents a further step in the development of a group focused on high technology and excellent solutions for the textile industry. With a 2011 turnover close to EUR 40 million and 84 employees, Mesdan S.p.A., founded in 1952 with headquarters in Raffa di Puegnago (BS), Italy, has reached a leading position in the production of yarn splicing devices, thanks to the development and ownership of several patents in the field of air and water joint technology. Mesdan has also diversified its activities through the business of textile laboratory instruments to meet the increasing demands of the textile market towards quality control of fibers, yarns and fabrics.
corporate
Welspun to invest Rs. 1,000 cr. to expand cotton, yarn output Welspun India plans to invest up to Rs. 1,000 crores in the next fiscal to scale up its yarn and cotton production at its two plants in Gujarat, as it aims to reduce dependence on external sources for raw materials. The Mumbai-based firm, which exports over 90 per cent of its production, has also set a turnover target of $1 billion in the next four years against the current $650 million. The company would expand its existing facilities at Vapi and Anjar by adding more weaving and spinning machines. “We currently get around 40 per cent of our total requirement of yarn and fabric from our facilities. After expansion, it will go up to 75 per cent,” he added. The company currently produces 44,000 tonnes of towels, 45 million metres of bed linen and 10,151 tonnes of rugs per annum. The company expects to easily achieve its turnover target as both its international and domestic mar16 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
“We are investing in vertical integration. In the next fiscal (2013-14), we plan to invest Rs. 7001,000 crores on spinning and weaving equipment at our facilities.” – Mr. Rajesh Mandawewala M.D., Welspun India
kets continue to do well. Around 60-65 per cent of the company revenues come from the US market. It is expecting to grow in various other territories as well, including Brazil, Canada and China. The Managing Director further observed: “If the Free Trade Agreement (FTA) comes through with Europe, then we expect this market to become as big as the US. There is huge potential for growth for us (in Europe). Europe contributed around 14 per cent to the company’s total revenues in 2012. In 2013, we expect it to rise to 20 per cent.” Commenting on the domestic operations, he said the entry of multinational retailers in India through the opening up of FDI would also help in pushing up sales. Welspun India produces home textiles, like bed linen, basic bedding, decorative bedding terry towels, rugs and bathrobes. It has two manufacturing facilities, at Vapi and Anjar, in Gujarat.
corporate
Voltas Ltd., a Tata enterprise, and Benninger AG, a leading Swiss textile machinery manufacturer, have announced entering into a distribution agreement for sales and marketing of Benninger’s products in India. This is expected to strengthen both Voltas and Benninger’s outreach across the rapidly expanding Indian textile equipment market. The co-operation will focus on leveraging Benninger’s ability to provide leading edge products and the long-standing expertise in ‘continuous wet processing’ while building on Voltas’ established sales and marketing network across the country. Mr. C. Kamatchisundaram,
18 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
Senior General Manager (Operations), Voltas Ltd., observed: “This association would help us to offer truly world class solutions in continuous processing to the textile industry. Voltas’ sales and marketing strengths, combined with leading edge products from Benninger, would make us a preferred choice
for customers from the Indian textile industry.” Building on this association, Voltas will continue to deepen and expand its regional business contacts leveraging on its relationship with customers across the entire textile value chain and thus helping to open up new customer segments in woven and knit continuous processing aligned to Benninger’s product range. Based on its longstanding and excellent customer relations, the Benninger India and Voltas network would be the key contact for Indian customers for sales and marketing. The Benninger Group has been
corporate
“We are happy to be associated with Voltas. This association adds the required market reach for our established portfolio of products and thus expands the company’s position as a market and technology leader. We are confident that this association for sales and marketing, along with the responsive customerfocused local service & support provided by the local subsidiary, Benninger India Pvt. Ltd., would be a win-win situation for the two companies and our customers too.” – Mr. Gerhard Huber, CEO of Benninger AG the textile industry’s leading partner for more than 150 years with branches and service representatives across the globe. The company develops and manufactures textile processing, finishing and cord production ranges and provides complete system solutions. Benninger machines and ranges are an important link in the textile value chain. The vast knowledge and longstanding experience of Benninger
in the field of controls and automation is increasingly being applied in the textile sector. As a market leader the company is continuously expanding its comprehensive process know-how, the high-quality innovative and reliable product range, and its excellent customer-focused service in the local markets. Voltas Ltd. is one of the world’s premier engineering solutions providers and project specialists. Founded in India in 1954, Voltas
offers engineering solutions for a wide spectrum of industries in areas such as heating, ventilation and air-conditioning, refrigeration, electro-mechanical projects, textile machinery, mining and construction equipment, water management & treatment, cold chain solutions, building management systems, and indoor air quality. The company intends to provide engineering solutions for a greener tomorrow.
The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013 | 19
budget 2013
ITAMMA chief’s mixed reaction to Budget proposals Mr. Naresh Mistry, President of the Indian Textile Accessories & Machinery Manufacturer’s Association (ITAMMA), has made the following observations in regard to the provisions for the textile engineering industry (TEI) in the Central Budget for 2013-14 presented by the Finance Minister, Mr. P. Chidambaram: Ø A new scheme called the Integrated Processing Development Scheme will be implemented in the 12th Plan to address the environmental concerns of the textile industry. Ø Bringing green revolution to eastern India with an allocation of Rs. 1,000 crores in 2013-14 is welcome. (ITAMMA has already taken initiatives in regard to sustainability and expects that machinery and accessories manufacturers will invite developments related to energy conservation and environment-friendly aspects). The zero excise duty at the fibre stage in the case of cotton might have brought relief to the readymade garment industry. However, one should not forget that man-made textiles is also important in case of readymade garments when it calls for frequent changes in design/fashion, and also in case of green revolution where recycled fibers play a vital role. Thus the duty of 12 per cent at the fibre stage in case of spun yarn made of man-made fibre may discourage its applications as mentioned and further will have an adverse effect on R&D/innovations in this field. Ø The Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS) to continue in the 12th Plan with an investment target of Rs. 1,51,000 crores. Ø Companies investing Rs. 100 crores or more in plant and machinery during April 1, 2013, to March 31, 2015, will be entitled to deduction of an investment allowance of 15 per cent of the investment. (Preowned machines should have been exempted from the eligibility under TUFS as it affects the local TEI development adversely). Since used machinery is very cheap, there is no need for concessional financ20 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
Mr. Naresh Mistry, ITAMMA President
ing to improve its feasibility, or else India will be a junkyard for second-hand machines. Ø The Ministry of Corporate Affairs to notify that funds provided to technology incubators located within academic Institutions and approved by the Ministry of Science and Technology or the Ministry of MSME will qualify as CSR expenditure. Ø An amount of Rs. 200 crores to be set apart to fund organizations that will scale up S&T innovations and make these products available to the people. Ø A grant of Rs. 100 crores each made to four institutions of excellence. Ø It is proposed to increase the rate of tax on payments by way of royalty and fees for technical services to non-residents from 10 per cent to 25 per cent. This clearly indicates that the Government wants to encourage and support in-house R&D. However, it may noted that the Indian industry is far behind in meeting the R&D infrastructural needs when compared with the international textile machinery manufacturers. So it would have been a wise decision
budget 2013 to promote transfer/acquisition of new technologies/ innovations and machinery, R&D as well as joint ventures with leading overseas textile machinery manufacturers. There is also a need to see that institutions of excellence, apart from working on the developments in fiber, yarn, fabric and special finishes, should also give importance to the developments in textile machinery manufacturing. At the same time, some provision of funds for the development of the Common Facility Centre (CFC) for various clusters of the textile engineering industry would have helped in the development of machines and indigenization of spares, thus further helping in bringing down imports and providing stateof-the-art services and products at the national level. ITAMMA had also recommended waiver of customs duty on machines brought to India for R&D purposes and their being sent back to the respective countries after appropriate research/trials. It may be noted that new technology machines coming to India not only to upgrade the knowledge of students and technicians
22 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
but also to create an appropriate platform to emerging entrepreneurs should be encouraged. Presently the duty structure depends on the duration of these machines being kept in India. Ă˜ The decisions taken for the benefit of micro, small and medium enterprises are welcomed, including a provision of Rs. 2,200 crores during the 12th Plan to set up 15 additional tool rooms and technology development centres with World Bank assistance. Ă˜ The decision on allocating Rs. 1,000 crores for this scheme and targeting skilling 50 million people in the 12th Plan, including nine million in 2013-14, and further motivating youth to voluntarily join skill development programmes through the National Skill Development Corporation is most welcome. Ă˜ No change in the normal rates of 12 per cent in excise duty and service tax. This is a little disappointing. However, reduction in customs duty from 7.5 per cent to five per cent for textile machinery offers some scope for improvement in investments in this ar ea. w
corporate
Groz-Beckert expands Indian operations In the textile industry worldwide, Groz-Beckert is an established brand known as a reliable quality supplier of textile machine components, systems and consultancy services in the area of textile surface formation. India is the second largest market for Groz-Beckert, and its strong presence in the country has been maintained for more than 50 years through its wholly-owned subsidiary Groz-Beckert Asia Pvt. Ltd. As the knitting and garment industry evolved over this period, the company has kept pace with it by steadily expanding its distribution network across the country and opening branch offices at important knitting centers of Ludhiana and Tirupur. Taking its commitment to customer service a step further, the company has recently inaugurated two new regional offices, one each at Gurgaon and Thane, in addition 24 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
Dr. Anton Reinfelder, Managing Director, Groz-Beckert Asia Pvt. Ltd.
to the already established South Region Office at Tirupur. These regional sales offices will represent all divisions of the company, namely, knitting, weaving, felting, tufting and sewing. The regional office at Gurgaon will also house a Sewing Application Center to offer a needle advisory service to its customers in the garment industry. Through a detailed analysis of sewability of the fabric and thread to be used, needles having the required features and specifications will be recommended by the center to optimize both quality and productivity during the sewing process.
With new regional offices in place, exchange with customers, partners and institutes will be intensified so that the knowledge of their requirements can be further enhanced to develop new products and business sectors to the benefit of the industry. For Groz-Beckert, research and development have always been important corner-stones of corporate success. The company objective is to be the motor of innovation for the entire textile chain wherever textile surface production technologies are required and whenever new technologies or systems need to be developed. w
innovation
Protector, Vimal’s yet another major fabric technology innovation Vimal, the flagship textile brand of Reliance Industries Ltd. (RIL), has announced the launch of its technology breakthrough product – Protector: 4-in-1 hygiene uniform fabrics – for the evolving fashion needs as they are fortified with a defence shield that enhances the value of the garment while offering additional functionalities. Protector: 4-in-1 hygiene uniform fabrics are purpose built for tropical countries like India that provide an ideal environment for the growth of bacteria and fungi on the clothing. These micro-organisms, apart from aiding infection, go on to generate the characteristic foul smell and cause discoloration of fabrics. A product like Protector with its anti-dust, stainrelease, anti-microbial and anti-pollen properties therefore meets the need of the hour. The new fabric from Vimal is high on fashion and at the same time helps consumers to deal with humid and sultry climates without exposure to the menace of microbial infection. Protector: Hygiene uniform fabrics, infused with new functionalities,are poised to create a niche in the fashion apparel industry by empowering the fashion conscious consumer to experience increased comfort without compromising on the style quotient. This innovation has been achieved in Vimal’s standard polyviscose & and poly-wool suiting and is ideal for use in institutions like hospitals or armed forces as well as caters to the fashion and style needs of school uniforms, corporate and occasion wear. Protector is yet another major technology innovation from Vimal after it recently launched ‘DEO2’ in India, a pioneering innovation. It is a revolutionary anti-microbial deo-treatment that arrests the growth of fungi and bacteria on fabrics keeping it fresh and anti-odour even after day-long wearing in humid and warm climates. All the fabrics – worsted as well as PV suiting – woven at Vimal are treated with this innovative technology, thus making it the only company in the world to offer it across its entire product range at 26 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
“We have successfully leveraged our textile capabilities with our R&D focussed product development expertise to create a smart and fashionable offering for our customers. The result of this is Protector, a smart, versatile fabric that provides consumers multiple functions and benefits for their fashion needs.” – Mr. Anand Parekh, President, RIL Textiles Division no additional cost to consumers. Vimal, the flagship textile brand of RIL, is an iconic fabric brand in the domestic market, famous for its product quality. The company manufactures more than 12,000 design-shade combinations every year in polyester wool & woollen, polyester viscose and woollen fabrics under this brand. In recent years, Vimal has restructured the portfolio to include ready-to-wear garments, keeping in tune with the market requirements. RIL’s Textile Division is India’s largest manufacturer-exporter of suiting fabrics. It has a production capacity of over 20 million metres per year, of which a major portion is exported to about 60 countries, to some of the biggest international brands across the globe. All the fabrics go through stringent quality checks at each stage and process (with ISO 9001 & ISO 14001 Certification) and are at par with global standards.
cover story
Mr. M. Prabhakar Rao, Chairman, NSL Group 28 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
cover story
N
SL Textiles Ltd. (NSLTL) is an integrated textile player based in and around Guntur district, the major cotton producing belt in Andhra Pradesh. As an entity, NSLTL commenced commercial operations in 2003. NSL Textiles (Edlapadu) Ltd. and Prabhat Industrial Corporation Ltd., two of the group companies
in related business, merged with NSLTL with effect from April 1, 2010, and February 1, 2011, respectively. The amalgamated entity has 2.43 lakh spindles, 3744 rotors, weaving capacity of 650 looms, fabric processing capacity of 115,000 M/day, yarn dyeing capacity of 15 tons/day and garment manufacturing capacity of 7,500
pcs/day. Thus it is a fully integrated player in the cotton industry. Apart from it, Anantlaksmi Spinning Unit, a subsidiary of NSL Textiles, has 0.32 laks spindles, and Marigold Industries, which is a sister concern of NSL Textiles, has garment manufacturing capacity of 7,500 pcs/day. The group spans the entire value
The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013 | 29
cover story
The NSL Group is a Rs. 5500-crore conglomerate having interests in seeds, infrastructure, power, sugar and textiles. The parent company Nuzeevidu Seeds Ltd., is the largest seed company in India with a turnover of Rs. 900 crores for 2011-12. Its cotton seeds hybrid varieties – Bunny BT and Mallika BT – are household names in rural India. The group Chairman, Mr. M. Prabhakar Rao, is a great visionary and has been solely responsible for this diversification. His vision: “We at NSL aspire to become Asia’s leading, most innovative and eco-friendly player in a domain spanning natural fibres to affordable fashion, driven by the backing of our group strengths and entrepreneurial skills”. 30 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
chain, right from the cottonseed to cotton, yarn, fabrics and garments. NSLTL has reported an operating income of Rs. 700 crores in 201112 as against Rs. 574 crores and Rs. 202 crores respectively in 2010-11 and 2009-10. This is expected to hit Rs. 1,300 crores in 2016. Ginning Headquartered in Hyderabad, an IT and pharma hub in Andhra Pradesh, NSL’s business operations start from choosing the right raw material, i.e., cotton commonly known as kappas. The company has a highly experienced team, especially for kappas procurement, whose responsibility is to check the quality of cotton supply right from the fields. Stringent quality norms followed during the procurement stage allow them to pick the best quality kappas for ginning. Today NSL Textiles Division operates four ginning units with 184 gins and production capacity of 1,300 bales/day. All the ginning units are fitted with automated systems with pre-cleaners. Highly efficient humidification plants help in maintaining the optimum levels of humidity in all the ginning units. The result is high quality cotton lint, which is the most important ingredient in various stages of textile value chain. Spinning The very first spinning unit was acquired in 2003, marking NSL’s entry into the textile world. Now, even before a full decade has passed, NSL has spinning units at five different locations (including the subsidiary company Anantlakshmi) having close to
cover story
Mr. Ajay Kumar Paturi, Director, NSL Textiles Ltd.
32 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
2,75,000 spindles. In an exclusive interview, Mr. Ajay Kumar Paturi, Director of NSL Textiles Ltd., said: “NSL aims to be among the largest premium fine count cotton spinner in the world within the next 5 years”. NSL’s spinning division offers its customers a wide range of yarns: single-ply 20s to 100s. Moreover, they have greater servicing flexibility and can offer a wider product mix. Today, approximately 20 per cent of their yarn is exported. This is proposed to be raised to 30 per cent by 2014. The manufacturing facilities are all strategically located in the cotton producing belt in the districts of Krishna, Cuddapah, Prakasam and Guntur. Added to that is the close relationship that the NSL Group enjoys with cotton farmers. As a direct result, the company is able to source top quality cotton at the right time. NSL has invested heavily in latest technology in its endeavour to maintain quality and lead time commitments. Continuous modernization of its mills is the key factor that helps NSL stay at par with the best the industry has to offer. In all the spinning mills, the entire yarn production capacity is auto-levelled, auto-coned and spliced with siro cleaners to eliminate contamination
cover story at various stages in process. Imported machines from Switzerland and Germany used at various stages are a direct result of the commitment in maintaining top quality standards. Special care is taken at every possible stage to trace and remove impurities/foreign matters. Highly efficient blow rooms with special mixing equipments ensure minimum levels of contamination in the final product. Weaving NSL aspires to weave top notch fabrics from its manufacturing facilities deployed with the most advanced machinery in the industry. The entire manufacturing process and all the plant layouts have been engineered to ensure safe, reliable and smooth material flow from raw materials to the despatch of the finished grey fabric. Currently, NSL Textiles operates three weaving units consisting of 650 modern looms leading to a production capacity of a massive 40 million m/annum. Under its roof rests unparalleled air-jet technology provided by Picanol and Dornier machines, making it possible to lend a flawless finish to their products making them one of the preferred choices of many local and international garment manufacturers and processing houses. NSL assures all its textile units uninterrupted quality power supply to ensure consistency in quality and in meeting delivery schedules on time. All the weaving units are equipped with 1.5 times the required capacities of utilities like air, steam and humidity controls to ensure maximum utilization of the looms. Qualified supervisors and experienced technical experts help ensure the smooth flow of the fabric till the final stage. In addition to in-house manpower, the manufacturing units are equipped with highly efficient real time process control systems known as the Loom Data System which analyzes in detail the operational data and immediately takes precautionary action. All its weaving units have separate quality control
Chandole unit
34 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
laboratories to ensure inspection of its 100% fabric output. Moreover, NSL has integrated its weaving process with their own spinning vertical to give themselves complete control over the inputs, thus leveraging the fundamentals of ensuring continuous supply of the highest quality products within stringent timelines. With huge production capacities and massive workforce to handle them, NSL Textiles is gearing up to offer customers a very wide range of fabrics, including solids, yarn-dyeds and printed fabrics for top as well as bottom-weights. The range covers basic poplins,
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Mr. Updeep Singh, COO, NSL Textiles Ltd.
36 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
twills and oxfords, fancy structures such as herringbones, chinos, tussores, combination weaves and dobby designs. Processing NSL’s processing unit is equipped with the latest 12-colour rotary printing facility, the Luscher laser engraver and high-end finishing machines. Its Chandole processing unit is located in the heart of a rice-farming area: a showcase of how the industry can live in perfect harmony with nature. The unit has a total processing capacity of 115,000 M/day and yarn dyed production at close to 15 tons/day. The unit has an advanced ETP system to ensure zero discharge, and a range of energy-saving devices that help deliver 360-degree environmental program in tune with the future. Apart from this, many machines in the processing plant are fitted with energy saving devices such as heat recovery systems, reaffirming the company’s commitment towards reduction of carbon footprint. The Chandole plant is equipped with stateof-the-art machines along with the fully automated chemical dispensing system. The textile major has imported a lot of machines from Italy,
cover story Germany and Switzerland proving the possibility of maintaining European standards on the Indian soil. The massive processing plant is considered one of the biggest processing units in South India consisting of latest technology high-end finishing machines for sueding, calendaring and airo wash, apart from the standard processing machines. Seasoned supervisors and a well-experienced workforce oversee the operations under the guidance of a supportive management. Finally, integration of the processing with their spinning and weaving vertical allows NSL to have a better control over the inputs leading to supply of best quality products in reasonable time. NSL takes up orders for international garment brands like Zara, Marks & Spencer, NEXT, Tom Tailor, Giovanni Galli, etc., and in the domestic market, it manufactures garments for TWILLS, Turtle and many others. Zero discharge policies NSL’s commitment to the environment is not only a matter of conscience but also a good business practice. Their units have a strict zero discharge policy, and at least one-third of the factory area at each of the units is being “greened�. The fully-automated ETP at the Chandole unit uses the biological treatment of effluents, followed by various stages of recovery, to ensure zero discharge and maximum recovery of water.
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cover story The management at NSL is especially proud of the fact that their process unit operates in complete harmony with the rice farms that surround it – a major contrast to the pollution that is so often associated with such a unit. NSL is currently working towards extending their environmental program and achieving the ISO 14001 certification and also the OEKOTEX certification, declaring non-usage of banned dyes and chemicals. Mr. Updeep Singh, COO of NSL Textiles, says: “As a group we do a lot of CSR activities. We have mobile hospitals stationed in a
number of neighboring villages. We are also planning adoption of a few villages to provide them with all the basic necessities, including education, medical and basic infrastructure”.
For more than five decades the NSL Group has been working towards the betterment of facilities provided to its employees by setting new standards in the State. Its mission is to create a platform for
sustainable rural development, especially in the key areas of education, healthcare, employment, and the transfer of knowledge generated through agricultural research, to the Indian farmer. NSL Textiles & Apparels aspires to become one of the leading, innovative, eco-friendly and entrepreneurial companies in the natural fibre to affordable fashion domain. w 38 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
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The company has appointed three major distributors in the Indian market – Mr. O. Satheesh Kumar of HV Marketing for northern India, Mr. Shyamkumar .P of TeFoc Hitech Machineries for southern India, and Mr. Abhay Potnis of A-1 Enterprises for all the other markets. The company offers the RAMX range of stenter machines, which are European quality machines at Asian prices, offering the same levels of performance, quality and reliability, says Mr. Mokanoglu. Established in 1995, the HAS Group develops textile machinery for finishing of woven, knitted and non-woven fabrics and carries out Mr. Ihsan Mokanoglu, Sales & Marketing Director, Has Group
Turkish textile machinery manufacturer HAS Group is bullish on the Indian market for its machines. The company already has a few installations in India, and the real growth will happen in the next few years, says Mr. Ihsan Mokanoglu, Sales and Marketing Director of the Group. 40 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
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manufacturing activities. The main product groups are Raising, Shearing, Brushing, Tumbler and Compacting machines for the tubular and open width form of knitted as well as woven fabrics. In 1995 in order to manufacture textile machinery and spareparts the group set up a plant in Çorluin, a joint venture with Lafer SPA of Italy under the name of Lafer Tekstil Makine.San.ve. Tic. A.S. In 2003, Mekanik Teknoloji (MT) that provides goods and services to industries such as textile machinery, agriculture, food industry, defence industry, communication, shipping,
and weapon industry was established. In the last quarter of 2006, the company joined hands with Tekstil Teknik Makine (TTM) for developing projects, primarily stenter machines, for finishing processes of woven and knitted fabrics. TTM specializes in textile finishing machineries, especially in the production of stenter machineries. In August 2011, TTM having exported the 100th RAM-X model stenter machine to Bangladesh has developed the RAM-X2 with the motto “New Generation Stenter Technology”. The HAS Group enjoys a very strong export market with leadership position, particularly in markets like Bangladesh, Pakistan, Indonesia, Iran, Syria and South America. “We have great expectation from the Indian market and we expect good orders during the current year”, says Mr. Mokanoglu. “The advantage we offer is thanks to our own textile industry in Turkey. Everyday we collect feedback and information from customers, and this has continuously helped in bringing new innovations in stenter modernisation. The RAM-X Stenter machines are capable of carrying out drying and fixing in an economic manner with most advanced technology and higher speeds, thanks to its innovative, functional and unique design”. RAM-X2 The HAS Group has introduced the new generation stenters RAMX2, which is generation ahead of its existing range. “The primary reason for this development was the demands and expectations from
The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013 | 41
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Mr. Ihsan Mokanoglu along with Mr. P. Samuel Ravichandran and Mr. P. Shyamkumar of Tefoc
our customers. There is continuous demand from customers for finishing processes of different types of fabrics, and as machine producers, we have to develop quick solutions that can respond to these trends. Moreover, we aimed at designing machines considering the increasing energy costs to make it more energy efficient�, says Mr. Mokanoglu. The group has worked hard to develop projects for finishing processes of home textiles, weaving, furnishing and denim fabrics and has focused particularly on designing and producing machines for home textile products with working width of 3200 mm and 3600 mm, and finishing lines of weaving, furnishing and denim fabrics with working range of 1800 mm and 42 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
2200 mm. It has supplied the new machines developed by the R&D and manufacturing units to meet the demand. Also installed are machines which, if used for more than one year, would yield results beyond customers’ expectations. The HAS Group is also working
on setting up a strong aftersales service network in India through its agents and backed by its own service engineers. The agents will also keep stock of critical components to ensure that there is minimal downtime for customers, adds Mr. Mokanoglu.
corporate
Nandan Exim’s massive Rs. 814-crore expansion plan announced Hikes denim capacity and forays into shirting Nandan Exim Ltd., the flagship company of the Ahmedabad-based Chiripal Group, has forayed into new ERA of shirting production and proposes to expand its denim capacity in order to grab the opportunity of growing demand in domestic and international markets and to compete and diversify its activities. Nandan Exim is the second largest integrated denim manufacturing firm in India. The Nandan Exim Chairman, Mr. Vedprakash Chiripal, said the company has enhanced its expansion project to Rs. 814 crores, as increased from Rs. 261 crores announced earlier. The company proposes an additional capacity of 42 million metres per annum denim fabrics, inclusive of installation of spinning of 8 open end lines, 57,840 spindles and 336 looms. It also proposes to diversify into new ERA of 15 million metres per annum shirting capacity. According to him, the post-expansion capacity of the company would be 112 million metres per annum denim fabrics and 15 million metres shirting capacity. The project is expected to be completed by January 2015, generating direct employment to more than 750 personnel. Mr. Chiripal further said that the total revenue for the nine-month period ended December 2012 has increased to Rs. 536 crores as compared to Rs. 425 crores in the corresponding nine months ended December 2011, registering a rise of 26 per cent. Net profit for the nine months was Rs. 21.72 crores (Rs. 16.06 crores). The group has a vision of future growth through di44 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
versification in order to survive in a highly competitive environment. This is supported with quality products manufactured by the company along with fully integrated textile plant to cater to the needs of customers by providing a variety of products under one roof. Gujarat remains one of the richest producers of cotton in India. Elaborating on the need for raw materials, Mr. Chiripal said that company has a sophisticated and advanced cotton spinning plant for its own requirement of cotton yarn in line with its expansion project. Looking at the excellent performance posted by the company along with the growth in demand in international and domestic markets, with the cut in production volume by China and the US and the announcement of the scheme for the textile sector by the Gujarat Government wherein 5-7 per cent interest subsidy and VAT refund to the extent of investment in plant & machinery and Re.1/- per unit power subsidy, the denim players in India have indeed a bright future. As for Nandan Exim, the Chairman expects a turnover of Rs. 1,500 crores, post expansion. w
budget 2013
Need to maintain
COTTON textile export
growth momentum Cotton textiles are amongst the select few items in the textile & clothing basket that have shown positive growth in exports during 2012-2013. Current trends in exports indicate that they will surpass the target of $9 billion set for the sector and reach $9.56 billion. Overall growth in exports during 2012-2013 is expected to be around nine per cent over the previous year against the backdrop of adverse market conditions in the European Union and the US. 46 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
Mr. Manickam Ramaswamy, Chairman, Texprocil
budget 2013 The textile industry seems to have fully recovered from the losses it has incurred in the previous years when there was a severe volatility in the national and international markets. Capacity expansion is once again beginning to happen. The Union Budget 2013-14 has provided much for modernization and expansion of the textile industry. Robust export growth is very essential for the financial health of the textile industry. It is very important to have continuous additional capacity creation required for the existing huge potential by way of becoming the most cost efficient manufacturer of cotton textiles and start towards achieving a growth rate of 20 per cent. The Textiles Ministry and the Commerce Ministry are extremely appreciative of the efforts made by Texprocil so far. Domestic cotton prices are ruling three-five per cent higher than international prices in spite of India having surplus cotton overall. This is due to artificial scarcity in the market created by procurement agencies holding over 20 lakh bales of cotton procured during November-December 2012 and January 2013. Private traders are also holding large inventories. Texprocil has urged the Government to request CCI and NAFED to start selling their large inventory to remove the artificial shortage and
The following policy interventions will enable greater increase in exports: • Notifying export benefits under the Focus Product Scheme & Market Linked Focus Product Scheme at 2-digit level HS Code for Home Textile Sector instead of 6-digit or 8-digit levels. This will also ensure against unwanted exclusions. • Treating “cut & sew” products like garments, made-ups and bags on par for all export promotion benefits. Just as jewellery export does not discriminate between ‘bangles’ and ‘necklaces’, export of ‘cut & sew’ products should not differentiate between garments and home textiles. • Ensuring that Indian cotton is made available at international prices or lower. In this connection Government procurement agencies should not hold undue inventories of cotton and unwittingly contribute to increase in domestic prices to the disadvantage of exporters. • Importing cotton at higher International prices would only exacerbate the current account deficits (CAD) at a time when the country needs to increase exports and reduce CAD. restore international price parity which is most important to help maintain the export momentum. The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013 | 47
fiber
INVISTA, the leading fiber and fabric innovator in the textile industry, concluded the second edition of its much-anticipated knowledge and innovation conclave ‘LYCRA RENDEZVOUS’ on a high note. The event witnessed participation by leading mills and brands from the textile and apparel industry such as Vardhaman, Banswara Syntex, Arvind Ltd. - Denim, Mafatlal Denim, etc. The curtains opened to an actionpacked day, full of insightful discussions and product showcase by INVISTA’s key customers, launch of its latest innovation LYCRA T166L fiber, unveiling of ARVIND Stretch Denim powered by LYCRA fiber, futuristic panel discussions amongst the best of think-tanks from the industry and a scintillating denim fashion show. INVISTA is one of the world’s largest integrated producers of polymers and fibers, primarily for nylon, spandex and polyester applications. Its global businesses deliver exceptional value for customers through technology innovations, market insights and a powerful portfolio of global trademarks, including COOLMAX fabric, CORDURA fabric, 48 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
freshFX fiber, LYCRA fiber, SUPPLEX fabric, TACTEL fiber, and THERMOLITE fabric. The new product offering by INVISTA, LYCRA T166L fiber, has been especially designed for robust processing performance in the manufacturing of stretch woven fabrics and possesses good recovery and low growth that are essential for the denim industry. The fiber delivers the exquisite comfort, fit and aesthetics that consumers associate with the LYCRA brand. The launch received an enthusiastic response from the industry bigwigs at the event. INVISTA also showcased its global denim concept collection for Spring/ Summer 2014. The collection encompasses innovative garments highlighting
fiber
Mr. Andrew Evans, Managing Director - South Asia, INVISTA
INVISTA’s key technologies for denim, including TOUGH MAX LYCRA fabric, XFIT LYCRA fabrics, LYCRA dualFX fabrics and COOLMAX fiber under key three themes – Fantasy, Reality and Harmony. Featured styles under Fantasy comprise pearlized coatings, reflective surfaces, coloured weft yarns, prints and tie-dye effects; Reality features simple evergreen denim structures and neon colours; and Harmony collection represents performance denims with knit inspired jacquard weaves of cotton and LYCRA fiber. Andrew Evans, Managing Director - South Asia, INVISTA, says: “Innovation is the mantra to enable the denim industry to progress and constantly devise solutions that cater to varying consumer needs. At LYCRA RENDEZVOUS our endeavor was to provide a platform to the denim industry to delve deep into the consumer psyche, identify consumer needs and come up with innovative ways to spark the industry’s growth. We received a fantastic response from our customers and representatives of the industry reiterating the success of the event that brought together the entire value chain together.” Vijay Punyani, Senior Vice President, Vardhaman Textiles Ltd., one of INVISTA’s most trusted partners in South Asia, said: “With the passage of time, the demand of stretch fabric in the market has increased significantly and so has the demand for LYCRA fiber products. We have produced a variety of core spun yarns with LYCRA fiber The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013 | 49
fiber
Mr. Ravi Toshniwal, Managing Director, Banswara Syntex
Mr. Vijay Punyani, Senior Vice President, Vardhaman Textiles Ltd
as well as specialized products for Super Stretch Denim. Since 1998, the association with INVISTA has empowered us to counter a variety of challenges we faced while establishing core spun yarns, fabric processing and weaving. We are currently working with wonderful innovations from INVISTA’s product portfolio. Nearly 70% of our total core spun yarn is used for
denims for which we have received a fantastic feedback. With our orders growing substantially we look forward to further strengthening our long-standing relationship with INVISTA.” Commenting on the association with INVISTA, Ravi Toshniwal, Managing Director, Banswara Syntex, said: “We have been working closely with INVISTA for the last
Launching the Arvind’s stretch denim, Mr. Aamir Akhtar, CEO, Arvind Ltd. - Denim, and Mr. Andrew Evans 50 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
14 years on technical collaborations and new product developments for yarns and fabrics with LYCRA fiber and LYCRA T400 fiber. We highly value the partnership since it has enabled us to differentiate our offerings and deliver many firsts in the Indian textile market. We look forward to an exciting journey together for years to come.” As the event progressed and excitement multiplied, ARVIND Denim launched its latest range of stretch fabrics powered by LYCRA fiber under two key themes – Denim Glam and Pop Vintage – bringing INVISTA’s best of textile innovations together with the denim fabric making expertise of ARVIND. Aamir Akhtar, CEO, Arvind Ltd. - Denim, observed: “The LYCRA fiber brand has delivered multiple breakthroughs over the years through continuous investment in innovations and conquered new frontiers in comfort, fit, functionality
fiber and consumer concepts. INVISTA, as the pioneer of innovation, has contributed to the growth of the Indian textile and apparel industry that is currently registering at a healthy double-digit growth of 14-15%. Taking forward our association, we are delighted to present the new generation of stretch fabrics with LYCRA fiber that take comfort, style and stretch technology to another level.” Elaborating on the future of the stretch denim industry in India, he added: “The Indian denim market is primarily dominated by men as they are 80% of our consumer base. However, as noticed in the recent years, the attraction of stretch denims is bringing more and more women in the target group. Stretch denim with LYCRA fiber enables flatter silhouettes and provides that comfort with an outstanding fit.” INVISTA also presented novel consumer insights and research findings at a special session aimed at enabling the brands to identify ways of ‘winning today’s denim consumer’. The highlight of the event was the brainstorm wherein industry stalwarts delved on topics such as ‘Shifting Supply Base: Opportunities & Challenges’ and ‘What does the Indian market need’. The forum brought to the forefront challenges and
Mr. Avinash Chandra, Marketing Head - South Asia, INVISTA 52 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
Mr. Rishi Suri, Business Head - South Asia, INVISTA
opportunities that the textile and apparel industry is facing currently. The trends and future of the garment industry in countries like Sri Lanka, Cambodia and Vietnam were also discussed at length. It also highlighted the urgent need for technological advancement and finesse in fiber processing. The speakers also elaborated on different ways of catering to the evolving consumer needs and demands reiterating the importance of innovation in the textile industry space. The event concluded with a glamorous ramp walk showcasing varying patterns and designs of denim powered by INVISTA’s fiber and fabric technology. w
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With over 16,000 weaving machine installations across India, what makes Picanol the most preferred weaving machine? We bring you the inside story of what makes Picanol the most trusted brand. 54 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
Mr. Luc Tack, CEO, Picanol, (right) and Mr. P. Kasiviswanathan, Head of Picanol India
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“With a marketshare of over 60% in India, Raymond is one of the world’s leading manufacturers of worsted fabric in India. The Chairman’s Collection of suiting, a 220s pure wool and fine cashmere blend, is a fabric so exclusive that only a few mills in the world manufacture it. These are currently woven on 80 Gamma, 192 GamMax and 68 OptiMax and 24 OMNIplus Picanol airjet machines”. – Mr. H.K. Chatterjee, Vice President, Raymond Ltd. Raymond is one of the many happy customers of Picanol in India. With over 16,000 weaving machines running at various customer locations, India is undoubtedly one of the most important markets for Picanol worldwide. But what makes Picanol the most preferred weaving machine in the world and The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013 | 55
cover story in India? Is it just the advanced technology weaving machine that they offer or is there more to it? To get a better understanding, we spoke to the Management, the employees, the dedicated team at the headquarters in Belgium specifically handling the Indian market and, most importantly, the team in India which has been the backbone of the company’s success in the Indian Mr. Kasiviswanathan explaining the Picanol machinery market. What really stands out manufacturing process to an Indian customer is the sense of commitment to With the broadest product range on the its customer, from the top management to the worker at the market, optimal local services and considerable shop floor. presence, Picanol remains highly committed Mr. Luc Tack, CEO of Picanol, says: “India is not only to India and plans to be the leading provider of one of the key textile markets in the world, it is also a market weaving systems for the entire Indian weaving of crucial strategic importance for Picanol. We have been sector. By taking the decision to handle Indian serving the Indian textile industry for more than fifty years market directly through Picanol India, we were now with a leadership position, particularly with our range able to penetrate newer markets, improved of airjet machines. In recent years, Picanol India has seen a customer relations, after sales service and we steady growth in its market share, which has led it to being could prove to Indian market that Picanol name the leading provider of weaving machines on the local marstands for technology leader, says Mr. Luc ket today. Next to China, India is definitely our most imporTack. tant market. We have an installed base in India of more than Mr. Dilip Jiwrajka, Managing Director, Alok 16,000 weaving machines”. Industries Ltd., says: “With an installed base of more than 1200 Picanol weaving machines, Alok focuses on world-class infrastructure, best-in-class technology, uncompromising quality and dynamic product innovation.” Manufacturing The headquarters and main manufactur-
“With an installed base of more than 1200 Picanol weaving machines, Alok focuses on world-class infrastructure, best-in-class technology, uncompromising quality and dynamic product innovation.” – Mr. Dilip Jiwrajka, Managing Director, Alok Industries Ltd. 56 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
cover story “We chose Picanol OptiMax Rapier machines as they offer Free Flight technology with several advantages. We run mono filament yarns of count 20 D and various fine yarns up to a count range of 50 D for production of fancy curtain fabrics”. – Mr. Gurcharan Singh, Managing Director & Mr. Gurvinder Singh, Director of GM Fabrics ing infrastructure of Picanol are located in Ypres- Belgium, where the Picanol Group employs more than 1,300 people. In addition to the headquarters, the Picanol Group has production facilities in Asia and Europe, linked to its own worldwide sales and service network. The headquarters in Ypres is a 270,000 m2 site area where Picanol focuses on the assembly, development and sourcing of its high-end weaving machines. Moreover, the foundry and machining activities as well as those related to weaving accessories, spare parts and mechatronics are located in this plant. As for the latter, the development & production of all electronics for Picanol weaving machines takes place at its subsidiary PsiControl Mechatronics. For instance, Picanol BlueBox, the new electronic platform for Picanol weaving machines, is manufactured at PsiControl Mechatronics. It features superior microprocessor performance and memory capacity, designed specifically to meet the hardest working condition with state-of-the-art components and detection technology, remote check-up possibility, a modular build-up and userfriendly monitoring tools. “This new platform is superior to any existing system on the market. Our printed circuit boards are developed in-house, making them dedicated to their use, and are not standard components adapted to a weaving machine. We also have an own software team and invest about 5% of our annual turnover in research and development”,
says Mr. Luc Tack. Mr. Gurcharan Singh, Managing Director & Mr. Gurvinder Singh, Director of GM Fabrics, says: “We chose Picanol OptiMax Rapier machines as they offer Free Flight technology with several advantages. We run mono filament yarns of count 20 D and various fine yarns up to a count range of 50 D for production of fancy curtain fabrics”. Team behind the success Picanol has a large sales and service team in India working directly with the customers on a day-to-day basis. Picanol India employs 35 professionals operating out of three offices in Delhi, Mumbai and Coimbatore. The company carries out sales of Picanol weaving machines, spareparts, GTP frames, Burcklé reeds and complete servicing of Picanol looms, including installation, commissioning, trouble-shooting and print repair. Picanol India has a team of field technicians specially trained by Picanol Belgium in installation and trouble-shooting of all airjet and rapier looms, with the adequate experience to work independently. The fact that Picanol has its own local organization for sales and service gives it a distinct advantage over other suppliers in the same field, something much appreciated by customers. But what was really surprising to know was that there is a dedicated team which is based out of the company’s headquarters in The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013 | 57
cover story Belgium specifically supporting the business in India. Mr. P. Kasiviswanathan, Head of Picanol India, says: “Behind every successful organization is a great team, and I am proud to say we have an extremely efficient back office in Belgium who has been supporting us in presales, aftersales and technical support activity. Our Far & Middle East Team (FME) in Belgium comprising our Sales Manager, Mr. Lieven Engelbeen, for the machines, and Mr. Sigurd Blondeel for services, and Mrs. Regine Caulier supported by a dedicated and competent team, provide all services required. They look after the market even though the Picanol India team has been in touch with customers as first & nearest contact”. Mr. DK Dasgupta, Nahar Group of Companies, observes: “We evaluated several weaving machine builders and came to the conclusion, after intense technical comparison, that Picanol was the right brand to choose as a reliable partner”. The company’s plant near Ambala (Punjab) comprising a total of 319 Picanol looms has become a reference point among major Picanol installations in the country. Aftersales service A total of 16,000 machines running across India is a great
The Picanol team at the company headquarters in Belgium supporting the Indian operations
achievement. But to ensure that all these machines run continuously without any downtime or loss in productivity for the customer is a much bigger challenge for Picanol. In 2012, Picanol inaugurated its new Indian headquarters in New Delhi which houses the entire operations under one roof. “When you consider the ever-increasing installed base in India, our biggest challenge is to provide suitable aftersales service and technical backup to our customers. This is the very same reason why we have gone to this
“We evaluated several weaving machine builders and came to the conclusion, after intense technical comparison, that Picanol was the right brand to choose as a reliable partner”. The company’s plant near Ambala (Punjab) comprising a total of 319 Picanol looms has become a reference point among major Picanol installations in the country. – Mr. DK Dasgupta, Nahar Group of Companies 58 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
cover story “The overall experience with Picanol has been quite satisfactory not only product-wise, but also in the sense that service and support lived up to our expectations”. – Mr. P.G. Niyogi, CEO, Oswal Denims
one solution under single roof by bringing our sales, service, spareparts and electronic print repair to improve our working efficiency, transparency, etc.,” says Mr. Luc Tack. Mr. Kasiviswanathan says: “Having a dedicated organization to serve the Indian market offers many advantages for customers in terms of speed and quality of service. Offers for spareparts are made the same day from the Delhi office for all customers in India. We have one central warehouse for spareparts located in Ypres achieving a service level of over 97%. Our spareparts database contains more than 50,000 different items. Our Partsline internet application lets customers check details and order the latest spareparts with just a few clicks”. Mr. P.G. Niyogi, CEO, Oswal Denims, observes: “The overall experience with Picanol has been quite satisfactory not only product-wise, but also in the sense that service and support lived up to our expectations”. After the successful commissioning of 40 Picanol OMNIplus Summum airjets at Oswal Denim Bhopal, the Nahar Group decided to also invest in this type of machines for its Oswal Denims plant at Lahru in Ambala. At this plant they already
have 47 OMNIplus 800 machines, acquired the previous year, weaving denim fabrics. Summing up Picanol’s commitment to the Indian market, Mr. Kasiviswanathan says: “We value our customer, we take the issues raised by the customer with full attention and work on the solution. Our team is customer-friendly and modest. This is what we taught our team when we go to the market. When our people in the production & assembly built machines for our customers, we pay full respect and seriousness to make sure it is top of workmanship as these machines are going to speak about Picanol’s presence in the market for the next decades. There are places in India where machines supplied in early 1990s are still working well. We have always been leaders in technology innovation in weaving, and the Indian market has been proactive in accepting & trying new technology. The best example is that the Nahar Group which has the largest installation of the newly launched Airjet Summum anywhere in the world as on date”. “Despite general slowdown in India in 2012, Picanol has done rather well as far as installation of new weaving machines in the country is concerned. We expect 2013 would also be a more progressive year considering the kind of response from Picanol’s loyal customers and new prospects”, says Mr. Luc Tack. w
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Shree Balaji partners Fong’s to set up modern yarn dyeing facility Plan for doubling capacity in a few months Amritsar, the land of the Golden Temple, has been a textile hub and is particularly famous for shawls and blankets which are exported worldwide. Many of the major textile mills were first established in Amritsar. But the city has been a victim of terrorist activities in the 1970s and 1980s, and this has dealt a death-blow to the local industries. As a result, industries moved out, slowing down the overall development of the region. Today the scenario is fast changing. The local entrepreneurs are determined to bring back the city to its golden days. One such group manufacturing and exporting blankets, shawls, stoles and scarfs with successful backward integration by setting up its own yarn dyeing unit is Shree Balaji Yarns and Textile (SBYT). SBYT is a greenfield facility established in 2012. Construction of the factory started in 2010 and commercial production commenced in August 2012. SBYT is headed by two young entrepreneurs – Mr. Manish Mehra and Mr. Hitesh Khosla, Managing Director of SBYT – who have established a worldclass manufacturing facility for yarn dyeing.
Mr. Manish Mehra, Managing Director, SBYT The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013 | 61
exclusive
Mr. Hitesh Khosla, Managing Director, SBYT
The company has a professional team headed by Mr. Mohinder Attiri who comes with more than 20 years of experience in the textile industry, particularly in dyeing and processing. The promoters of SBYT have been in the textile industry for over 40 years, sourcing dyed yarn from the market. Hence, to cater to its captive requirement and to that of other customers, the group has now gone in for backward integration and established its own state-of-theart dyed yarn plant. The company is also catering
62 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
to the dyed yarn requirement of companies in Amritsar which are into making similar products like shawls, stoles, scarfs and blankets. Apart from the Amritsar market, SBYT is also catering to customers in Ludhiana for the woollen and cotton knitwear and hosiery segment. It has established a very modern yarn dyeing facility with a capacity to process 5000 kg of yarn per day. “We are planning to double the capacity in the next few months”, says Mr. Manish Mehra. SBYT has all the necessary infrastructure for yarn dyeing, including
preparatory winding machines for soft packaging and RF dryers and cone winding machines. The company has established a sophisticated testing laboratory with automated color management solutions. The heart of manufacturing is the dyeing unit, for which SBYT has installed the new generation Fong’s Allwin and Labwin series of machines. The company has installed 12 machines with varying capacities starting from three kg which are used for sampling up to 500 kg. “In the next phase we will set up higher capacity machines of 800 and 1000 kg dyeing machines as we have increasing requirement from our customers”, says Mr. Hitesh Khosla. SBYT has the capacity to dye almost all types of substrates and filaments. The company can dye yarn counts from 10nm to 120nm. From 2 by 20s to 2-120nm on substrates like polyester, cotton, wool, silk, poly wool, poly viscose, poly cotton, modal, viscose and linen. The company is sourcing basic yarns like silk and cashmere wool from the domestic market as well as from China. Some of the major customers of
exclusive SBYT include Ramson Exports, Piyush Overseas, Startlight Hosiery Works, Southern Knitwear and Shri Ganesh Enterprises. Its clientele are leading exporters of high quality scarfs, stoles and shawls to global brands like GAP, Debenhams and Espirit. Hence the quality of dyed yarn should be top notch. “We want to set up an eco-friendly plant adhering to all the latest environmental protection norms. Hence before setting up the unit we evaluated many machines and finally decided to go with Fong’s. They assured us the best quality, and today we are very satisfied with the performance of the machines and the output. Their transparent approach and attitude impressed us a lot. We are proud to have set up a unit which strictly conforms to the environment norms. We are very happy with Fong’s, and even for our next round of capacity expansion we will go with them”, says Mr. Manish Mehra. Out of 12 Fong’s machines installed, the company has one machine with capacity of 500 kg, two machines of 300 kg, another
64 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
Mr. Mohinder Attiri, Head - Operations, SBYT
machine of 200 kg capacity, three machines of 100 kg, one machine of 62 kg capacity, one machine of 52 kg and two Labwin model of 10 kg and three kg for sampling. The Fong’s ALLWIN high temperature package dyeing machine offers an unprecedented liquor ratio of as low as 1:4 with its integrated design of REV-pump, heat exchanger and the flow reversing system (patent granted). The newly designed integrated circulating system results in space saving by approx. 30 per cent as compared
with conventional machine arrangements. The versatile machine is suitable for various types of fibres: natural and man-made fibres and their blends, and 100 per cent cotton, polyester, polyester/cotton, acrylic, polyamide (nylon), wool, ramie/ cotton, etc. Different forms of yarns can be dyed such as packages, cheese, cones, hanks, loose fibre, etc., the capacity ranging from 28 kg to 9129 kg. As per the test conducted by Fong’s National Engineering Co. Ltd., ALLWIN dyeing machines shorten the total processing time for cotton yarn down to 276 minutes, saving electrical and water consumption by over 40 per cent and chemical cost by 19 per cent compared with the conventional machines. The Intelligent Levelling Control (ILC) system monitors the flow through the package from outsidein to inside-out and vice versa. ILC improves the levelling of colour throughout the whole package,
exclusive intelligent rinsing system shortening the rinsing time and reducing water consumption. Mr. Mohinder Attri says: “In terms of price, quality and output these are the best machines we have ever seen. The results of the machines are excellent. These are the latest models with the least liquor ratio; hence we are able make significant savings in water, chemicals, energy, power and, mostly importantly, our mother earth�. In the next phase of expansion, SBYT is also looking at further backward integration into the spinning segment and forward integration into the fabric dyeing and printing. The company is currently catering to the requirement in the domestic market, and has plans to cover overseas markets as well in future.
thereby reducing the yarn loss and increasing the reproducibility from batch to batch. Production cost is cut by 30 per cent, making it a premium choice for yarn dyeing facilities everywhere. The main features of this series machine are its compact piping layout which offers 25 per cent space saving and extreme low liquor ratio of 1:4; the Fuzzy Logic temperature control controlling temperature inaccuracy within Âą0.3oC; ILC system improving levelling throughout the whole package layer and reducing the yarn lost; and the advanced 66 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
man-made fibres
Annual technical & customer meet a grand success In December 2012, Oerlikon announced the decision to divest its natural fiber business along with the textile components business to the Jinsheng Group of China. Oerlikon’s Textile Segment will focus on the man-made fiber business, a high performing one with less cyclicality. The divestment is an important strategic step to optimize and balance Oerlikon’s portfolio by significantly reducing the group’s overall exposure to the textile industry whilst retaining and building on its position as a world leader in the man-made fibers segment. Oerlikon’s revenues from manmade fiber business globally is around CHF 1 billion and has witnessed a healthy growth of about 20 per cent since 2008-09. Oerlikon will continue to develop its leading position in the growing man-made fiber market. The global man-made fiber market has registered a compounded annual growth rate of about five per cent for the past five years. New industrial applications in the automotive industry and construction provide further growth potential, in addition to the ongoing substitution of natural fiber 68 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
in the apparel industry worldwide. Oerlikon’s Man-made Fibers Business Unit, with its brands Oerlikon Barmag and Oerlikon Neumag, is the worldwide leading supplier of innovative solutions for chemical fiber production that meets requirements for productivity, quality and lower conversion costs. In addition to filaments and staple fiber solutions it also offers solutions for nonwoven and BCF carpet yarn technology. Its technological leadership and strong market position have resulted in an exceptionally strong order book
which already contains orders for equipment delivery in 2015. Oerlikon commands a global marketshare of more than 45 per cent in the man-made fibre spinning and texturizing machinery business. Almost 60 per cent of the business comes from China. India contributes 10-15 per cent of the total business, and this is bound to increase in the coming years. Oerlikon Man-made Fibre business (Oerlikon Barmag & Oerlikon Neumag) recently organized its annual technical seminar and customer meet at Silvassa.
man-made fibres
The seminar was addressed by the senior management and technical teams of the company led by Mr. Stefan Kross, Managing Director, Oerlikon Manmade Fibres business. Speakers from Oerlikon Barmag and Oerlikon Neumag, Germany, as well as India presented the latest developments in the areas of POY, FDY, DTY, industrial yarn, BCF yarn and staple fibres. The meet attracted customers from all over India. Welcoming the gathering, Mr. Stefan Kross said: “There is a booming market for polyester in
Asia, particularly in markets like India and China. Global markets are becoming increasingly more transparent and competitive with margins getting rationalized”. He compared the global scenario to an international championship. Every customer must be able to compete in this championship. The question is what kind of equipment is going to achieve the best position and to win. “You need the best machine to win one that allows you to make money and be competitive. We realized this tendency in the last few years, and with our
business model of innovation and new technology, we get in line with these tendencies and deliver you the best and innovative equipments. Like the WINGS FDY, we want to give the latest technology for our customers to be able to compete in this championship worldwide. In fact, the first WINGS FDY in India will start production shortly”. Oerlikon is also focusing on ways to optimize on operating expenditure (opex). For the purpose, it is working on ways to reduce energy consumption, labor cost and waste. The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013 | 69
man-made fibres Oerlikon Barmag: Tomorrow’s solutions today
To be a “solutions supplier” means to make life easier for customers and to make their success a top priority. Oerlikon Barmag, the world market leader in the field of spinning installations for man-made fibres such as polyester, nylon, and polypropylene as well as for texturing machines, meets this challenge. More than 1,600 employees around the world work every day to create innovative technologies that set new standards, for the customers’ progress. The spinning installation WINGS (Winding INtegrated Godet Solution) integrates the drawing unit into the winder and thus enables a low building height, improves the energy balance by about 25 per cent even for POY production (polyester, polyamide) and is easier than ever to operate. Now Oerlikon Barmag is offering the WINGS technology for FDY (Fully Drawn Yarn), too. This was achieved by modifying the FDY process and adapting it to a machine that can be operated from the floor, as well as developing and improving various components. The result: The drawing unit and winder can be operated by one person; and production sequences and energy consumption reach a significantly better standard than conventional FDY systems. This results in even more efficient and profitable FDY production with the proven yarn quality. Around 5,000 WINGS FDY positions have been sold so far, and the first have been installed already. “WINGS FDY is well on 70 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
Mr. Stefan Kross, Managing Director, Oerlikon Manmade Fibre business unit
its way to becoming what WINGS POY already is: a benchmark for filament production. Our competitive advantage has grown with this innovation,” ensures Mr. Stefan Kross, head of the Oerlikon Barmag business unit. Evolution in Texturing: eAFK Oerlikon Barmag’s fundamental principle is innovation through evolution: The modular texturing machine eAFK is the advancement of its predecessors such as AFK and, MPS. It retained proven elements such as the ATT take-up, the pneumatic yarn string-up, the ease of handling and the energyefficient godet technology. But, with the new modular design, the
system moves to the next step in technology, with greater efficiency and ergonomics. The eAFK aims to meet essential market requirements at a good cost-benefit ratio: A wide range of variations and options allow adaptation to nearly all production needs. Mr. D. Ghosh, Dy. General Manager - Sales, Oerlikon Barmag Division in India, made a presentation on the need for automatic DTY machines. India has a population of 1.2 billion people, then why do we need automatic DTY machines when we have so much labor? Mr. Ghosh gave some interesting figures to highlight the importance of automatic DTY machines.
man-made fibres India has installed POY capacity of 200,000 tonnes per month which is slightly in excess of the actual demand. Out of this capacity, 180,000 tonnes is utilised and the balance still remains unutilised. The entire POY has to be converted into DTY. We found that out of the 180,000 tonnes, 125,000 tonnes goes for domestic consumption, 35,000 tonnes of DTY goes for export and 20,000 tonnes are directly exported as POY. Out of the 125,000 tonnes of DTY, almost 80 per cent, which is 100,000 tonnes, goes into weaving and 20,000 tonnes for knitting.
Mr. D. Ghosh, Dy. General Manager - Sales, Oerlikon Barmag Division in India
The proportion of knitting is increasing by the day, especially in North India and other markets. Out of the 20,000 tonnes which goes to knitting, 95 per cent goes to circular knitting and five per cent for warp knitting. In the weaving sector, most of the yarn is twisted before it goes for weaving. About 40 per cent of the yarn is twisted, and hence there is a requirement for excellent unwinding performance. As India is moving more towards shuttlesss automatic looms, the unwinding performance of weaving is a must. Weavers are demanding flawless fabric. There is also the requirement coming from the warping sector, which is for exact metered length. Customers are willing to pay a premium for metered package. The Indian industry is demanding better quality DTY yarn. This is why India needs energyefficient and automatic DTY machines. Due to the shortage of labor, customers are increasingly looking for machines that need less labor. Two Oerlikon Barmag machines can be operated by one operator. 72 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
man-made fibres WinTrax fibre winders Whether automobiles, airplanes, wind turbines, racing bikes or tennis racquets, light and super-stable carbon fibres are the material of the future for more and more applications. An example: The weight of heavy batteries is balanced with chassis made of carbon fibres in the production of electric vehicles. With the WinTrax, Oerlikon Barmag has developed a winder designed for economic winding of high-quality carbon fibres. Flexibility, perfect package composition, easy operation and minimal maintenance have made both the manual and automatic models of WinTrax a worthwhile investment, with the Asian and Russian markets leading the way. Oerlikon Barmag considers itself the market leader in the field of technical yarns too. Various solutions are amongst the most productive and flexible concepts in the global marketplace. The range of applications is wide, from tyre cord, tarpaulin, conveyor belts and geotextiles to airbags and safety belts. Regarding space saving, the equipment is state-of-the-art: The new 6LA spinning pack makes a technical yarn machine 25 per cent more compact than systems with conventional single-end spin packs. And, with its own engineering, Oerlikon Barmag offers solutions along the entire production chain also for the trend geotextiles. Making customers successful with innovations. At Oerlikon Barmag, this begins with a clearly defined long-term development strategy tailored to the custom74 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
Dr. K. Schäfer, Vice President Technology (WINGS FDY, Universal POY/FDY dope-dyed machine)
ers and market, concrete concepts regarding machine technology of the future, and the shortest possible research and development phase. The Oerlikon Barmag technical training centre in Remscheid contributes by acting as a greenhouse for the leading technologies of tomorrow. Customers can use it, too. And with its engineering services, the company also creates optimal solutions along the entire textile supply chain for each customer and provides comprehensive support and service. But there is one thing that always stays the same, according to Mr. Stefan Kross: “The motto: ‘Time to market’ always applies.” Anyone who wants to consider himself market as well as technological leader must point out innovative routes to the future. For more
than 60 years, Oerlikon Neumag, a brand of the business unit Oerlikon Manmade Fibers, has faced this challenge as a customer-oriented supplier of reliable installations in the worldwide industry for synthetic yarns, fibres and nonwovens. And it meets the challenge with high-performance technological developments. BCF: Distinct performance plus with S+ With a 70 per cent market share, Oerlikon Neumag is the leading global supplier of systems to manufacture highly developed BCF carpet yarn. The company achieved market leadership through continuous development work to improve the machines, components and processes. The result: individual solutions, from modular systems all the way to turnkey systems.
man-made fibres The equipment generation S+ is a good example of the technological capacity that serves as the foundation. This BCF machine brings together all the benefits of previous technologies: proven components like the godets and texturing characteristics of the S5, along with the straight yarn path and the optimized spinning mill from the Sytec One. The optimization measures also allow the S+ to dramatically increase production speed and output, reaching 99 per cent efficiency. Staple fibres Over 25 staple fibre systems installed around the world, with a capacity of 200 tons per day – there is no better proof for the performance of a technology. And now the next
Mr. M. Rademacher, Sales Director
Mr. U. Enders, Head of R&D Spinning
developmental step has been taken: The new system, with a capacity of 300 tons per day and thus the highest output in the world of a single line manufacturing polyester staple fibres, significantly reduces operating and production costs per ton. The first systems are already in operation at a leading manufacturer of polyester products in Asia. However, Oerlikon Neumag also has smaller systems in its portfolio: For example, inline staple fibre systems for the production of fibres for nonwoven applications. These systems produce up to 80 tons per day of fibres, e.g., made of recycled PET or for use in geotextiles. Nonwoven All technologies contribute to market-oriented developments. Oerlikon Neumag has an extensive range of nonwoven technologies, from spunbond and meltblown to airlaid. The uses include special technical applications such as filtration, roofing, geotextiles and automotive. And the company also offers tailored solutions applying spinning processes such as the Bico process for spunbund products. The focus on customers is apparent in the comprehensive support and service offered, from system design to engineering and after-sales service, covering every aspect of the production of BCF carpet yarn, staple fibres and nonwovens. The same principles always apply: a detailed understanding of the entire production chain down to the final product, with the focus on customer benefit, quality and innovative power. w The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013 | 75
knitting
Groz Beckert offers expertise to Tirupur knitters
Mr. S. Kumar, Sales Director (South), Groz-Beckert Asia
The Chennai Corporation recently invited tenders for supply of mosquito nets in bulk quantities for distribution to people living along waterways in the city. This has brought cheer to the industry in Karur which has now become a major center for manufacturing of mosquito nets. Karur has also become a major exporter of mosquito nets, thanks to the local manufacturers who have identified an opportunity in this product segment and invested in manufacturing capabilities. 76 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
The World Health Organisation (WHO) is also sourcing large quantities of nets from Karur for worldwide distribution. More than 2,000 units are manufacturing mosquito fabrics and fishing nets, and more than 60 per cent of mosquito nets in India are manufactured at Karur. A person familiar with the development says that more than 35 warp knitting machines from Karl Mayer have been installed recently for applications like mosquito nets and
knitting
other product categories. Recession has definitely taught a lesson or two for the textile community at Karur, and other markets can definitely take some constructive ideas from this. Warp knitting has very versatile applications. Groz-Beckert is trying to do its bit to support customers and bring about a change in Tirupur and nearby markets. In Tirupur, which is one of the largest knitting markets, the focus is mainly on cotton knitwear in 24 and 28 gauge. This limits the scope for creativity and expansion of the product range and has resulted in a drastic drop in
margins, says Mr. S. Kumar, Sales Director (South), Groz-Beckert Asia. Groz-Beckert is now trying to educate customers on the opportunities in fine gauge and in warp knitting. The company is now offering fine gauge cylinders which can be easily fitted on the existing circular knitting machines. This means customers can use their old machines and replace the cylinders alone instead of having to invest in a new machine, and they can also expand their product offerings. Mr. Kumar says: “We see a change in the mindset of custom-
ers who are now willing to invest in high quality and latest technology machines. Customers are looking for better productivity, higher speeds and energy efficient solutions. This is the only way to survive in such a recessionary phase. There is need for continuous investment in R&D and expand the product offerings to the market�. In the knitting sector Groz-Beckert is focussing on innovations leading to increased productivity. One of the key highlights is the High Speed Solution. That means the cheek geometry of the circular knitting needle is optimized, and this again enables significantly reduced latch impact speeds. The advantages of the High Speed Solution are less breakage and wear of needles and maximum machine speed. In short, the longer service life of needles and increased productivity in the circular knitting process. Groz-Beckert has also developed the CylinderMaster, an entirely new cylinder removal tool. Cylinder changes on large circular knitting machines are often difficult, workintensive and time-consuming. The CylinderMaster is the answer to this problem, enabling fast and userfriendly handling. w The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013 | 77
printing
Machines Highest Mechatronic GmbH (MHM) of Austria has been a pioneer in screen-printing machines for more than three decades. MHM, founded in 1980, belongs to the ARIOLI Group, a vertical textile machine manufacturer. A specialist in screen printing machines and corresponding drying & curing equipment, the MHM product assortment consists of screen and graphic printing machines and accessories. The group owns a large network of agents and
78 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
distributors in over 70 countries on six continents. In India MHM is represented by Batliboi with over 60 installations. The company sold nearly 180 machines globally in 2012 and 240 machines in the year prior to that. It is looking forward
to a good 2013, says Mr. Phil Gallagher, Sales Consultant. MHM has been in the forefront of innovation in screen printing industry. The company has found many solutions to problems in screen printing. All MHM machines are
printing
Mr. Phil Gallagher, Sales Consultant, MHM
developed in Austria under strict quality standards and highly skilled mechanics using state-of-the-art CNC machines. Till now it has produced and supplied over 15,000 screen-printing machines worldwide. S-Type Xtreme Engineered to withstand the most
demanding print-shops, MHM has launched the S-Type Xtreme, which has an uprated AC index motor and gearbox along with a stronger and remarkably stable X-shaped base, making it lighting fast and phenomenally precise and delivering outstanding performance, accuracy and reliability along with superb ease of
use. Its fully self-diagnostic touch screen interface also provides the operator with instant and intuitive feedback in almost any language. Available in 8, 10, 12, 14, & 16 color models, the S-Type Xtreme comes ‘user friendly’ with more standard features than any other press in its class, not to mention The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013 | 79
printing
a host of innovative time-saving features designed to significantly reduce set-up times and boost productivity to a whole new level. Its optional long stroke (LS) models increase flexibility, ensuring that the S-Type Xtreme can be tailored to fit your individual business needs and budget precisely. The new S-Type XTREME, has been further upgraded to suit markets like Bangladesh and India where power fluctuations are very high and frequent. MHM has made some changes to the main touch screen control panel, which has dual source of operation. The machines come with a Samsung tablet as an alternate touch panel with an app that you can download to operate the machine. If the tablet breaks down, the panel on the machine can be used for operating. Another advantage is that if there is wi-fi 80 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
connectivity in the factory, then the operator can directly connect with MHM through skype and get the problem resolved very quickly. MHM has been traditionally very strong in many global markets, including the US and the UK. Particularly in the UK, the company enjoys more than 95 per cent marketshare. MHM has been working with Batliboi in India for over a year now. Mr. Gallagher says: “For us the first priority is service. We believe our machines are technologically superior and very reliable. Every machine would break down, but the important point is to get the service and spares. We have machines in India which have been running for more than 20 years at customer locations�. MHM has come up with many innovative solutions for the print-
ing industry but has never patented them. It believes that it is at least five years ahead of the competition and continuously works on improving its products and technologies. MHM is planning to launch a new machine soon. A vast majority of its parts are machined in aluminium. MHM machines are known for higher production speed, better quality and repeatability. The registration system is very fast and precise, says Mr. Gallagher. MHM is clearly a premium positioned as a premium solution in the textile printing segment. The initial investment is definitely higher than other solutions, but the payback time is the shortest due to higher production speeds, reliability and hence lesser down time resulting in higher productivity.
spinning
The air-jet spun yarn Com4 jet is one of the members of the Com4 yarn family. Since the launch of the air-jet spinning technology the system has been under a steady innovation process both in terms of machine design and textile technology research. Rieter has recently released the air-jet spinning application for new raw materials and yarn count ranges. 82 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
spinning processes. An application is not offered to Rieter customers unless such a comprehensive test is passed. The research efforts and technology experience collected last year made it possible for Rieter to include further raw material types and extend the yarn count range where the J 20 air-jet spinning technology can be applied. The raw materials listed below have been tested under spinning conditions in customer trial mills and all have been processed to form a particular end product. Rieter as a producer of all 4 spinning technologies constantly compares and evaluates different spinning processes and gives recommendations on cost effectiveness of each of them. The J 20 air-jet spinning machine is now available for applications like Ne 30-50 for combed cotton (>1 1/8â&#x20AC;?), Ne 24-40 for MMF cellulosic (viscose, modal, ProModal, tencel), Ne 40-70 for MMF cellulosic micro fibers, and Ne 24-40 for blends of viscose with < 50% Rieterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s system suppliers ap-
a product for new applications
proach has been a prime advan-
has to meet very precise testing
tage for customers for years. The
standards. The yarn applications
Com4 yarns campaign extends
not only meet very high operat-
this customer support as far as
ing efficiency levels, but their us-
the end product. Any release of
ability is tested in all downstream
PES, blends of combed cotton with < 50% PES and blends of combed cotton with cellulosic fibers. w The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013 | 83
spinning
Naren, established in 1995, was founded and promoted by Mr. R. Sundarraj, a technocratturned entrepreneur, in Coimbatore. For nearly two decades, the company has achieved its objective of placing itself in a strong position to cater mainly to textile and industrial automation and has provided many competitive solutions to its customers. Today, efficient energy utilisation is of major concern everywhere. At Naren, the professional team remains committed to wise and efficient use of power and electricity. Naren offers a range of products, including electronic items, automation products, automation sensors, multi-panel meters, etc. In addition, it provides customized textile machinery spares, stepper motors, PID controllers, proximity sensors, pressure sensors and photo-electric sensors. All the products attract good customer demand, thanks to their excellent performance and longer life. The company plant has state-of-the-art infrastructure supported by well-established manufacturing capabilities and strong in-house 84 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
spinning
R&D facility. Delivering quality products of international standard, tailored to the requirements of different customers, is the key strength of Naren, enabling it to expand its presence within the country and outside. Commenting on the overall response for the company products at the recently-held India-ITME in Mumbai, the Naren Managing Director, Mr. R. Sundarraj, said: â&#x20AC;&#x153;The overall response from the customers was really good, and we have got many orders, especially from overseas clients. There was a huge crowd visiting our stall enquiring about our wide range of exhibited products. Every day our stall was surrounded by international clients and we really enjoyed answering their queries. The event has become worthy and an interesting platform to meet and interact with textile professionals, and we would definitely participate in the next India-ITME as well.â&#x20AC;? The company management is very confident that participation in such exciting exhibitions would promote further development of the consumer market and increase the demand for its products. A week after India-ITME, Naren has started getting enquiries for electronics accessories both from
Mr. R. Sundarraj, Managing Director, Naren
domestic and international visitors, and the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new products like OHTC PLC, Contifeed PLC system for blow room and spinning PLC for LR-G5/1 were well received by customers. The company had the opportunity to display a wide range of premium quality spares for all kinds of autoconer machines, both mechanical and electronics, particularly models like 238, 338, AC5, X-5, Espero, Orion, Polar and 21C, Mesdan type
splicers, knotters, spinning accessories, Chinese single and double yarn splicers, overhead cleaner parts and other products of global standard. According to Mr. Sundarraj, the company growth rate has been fairly good, and after its successful participation in India-ITME, the company has worked out growth plans envisaging trebling of its turnover. The company is also planning to launch new products to garner a bigger market share. The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013 | 85
corporate
Mr. Horst Wasel, President, Quality Air Division, Atlas Copco AB 86 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
Atlas Copco has just inaugurated its new compressor manufacturing plant at Pune in the presence of Mr. Horst Wasel, President, Quality Air Division. Mr. Filip Vandenberghe, Managing Director, Atlas Copco (India) Ltd., and Mr. Rudy Verstrepen, Vice President, Compressor Technique Operations. Atlas Copco also celebrates 140 years of industrial excellence with a range of activities in more than 90 countries where it has its own operations.
corporate
The company’s second compressor unit in India, the state-of-the-art lean manufacturing facility, spread over 23 acres, has a built-up area of 19,000 sq. metres. Built in accordance with LEED principles, the new facility will manufacture industrial and portable compressors, while the existing facility at Dapodi will continue to produce oil-free compressors and quality air product. Mr. Horst Wasel observed: “This new facility has been built to lean manufacturing principles.The Group continues its focus on India, and we are proud to inaugurate this new facility. This factory will help increase efficiencies, and further support business expansion in India, and also serves customers in India and abroad.” Mr. Vandenberghe said: “Celebrating 140 years is a fantastic opportunity to strengthen customer focus and relations further, to translate our values into daily activities, and to capture synergies. It is a great occasion to create pride among employees and to make them enthusiastic about future opportunities. Our history guarantees long-term industrial experience as well as innovative products and solutions to current and new customers, to suppliers as well as to current and future employees.” Last month, Atlas Copco earned a spot on the world list of the Global 100 Most Sustainable Corporations, the most prestigious corporate sustainability ranking, for its commitment to sustainable productivity and its work and achievements of doing more with less: For instance, development of new innovative, highly energy-efficient products that save customers money and benefit the environment at the same time. w
Mr. Rudy Verstrepen, Vice President Operations, Atlas Copco Product Company, Pune
Mr. Filip Vandenberghe, Managing Director, Atlas Copco (India) Ltd. The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013 | 87
corporate
Xetma Vollenweider fares well in 2012 of carpet shearing machines was very successful in the previous year. For the longest-standing manufacturer of shearing machines meant the newly developed carpet shearing machine X-PLORE XCS marked a major breakthrough in this market segment. Especially in working widths of over 5,000 mm numerous carpet shearing projects worldwide could be successfully realized last year. According to the motto “Swiss Technology – Made in Germany”, every product of Xetma Vollenweider is manufactured completely in Germany. Therefore the brand Xetma Vollenweider stands for highest quality, reliability and longevity. As a member of the VDMA Campaign “Blue Competence” the company takes account of the sustainability policy of its products and activities. Mr. Peter Baumann, CEO, Xetma Vollenweider
T
he German-Swiss company Xetma Vollenweider, with its more than 160 years of tradition in developing and manufacturing finishing systems for textiles, looks back to a very successful financial year. Xetma Vollenweider is well known primarily for its high-performance machines in the field of textile shearing and of soft touch applications with which unique finishing results are achieved. Besides technologies relating to brushing & emerizing as well as raising & shearing, the product line
88 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
w
processing
Bianco, Unitech join forces for tubular box solution A typical tie-up to tackle market challenges The Tubular Box Solution line is the result of the experience and professionalism of Bianco and Unitech, the two firms which have operated in the textile finishing machinery sector for almost 40 years. This is an entire assembly line for the processing of tubular fabric consisting of the Bianco APT tubular opener, which unwinds, slackens and reduces moisture in the fabric, eliminating the need for centrifugal hydro-extractor; the Unitech GOLD tensionless dryer, with outstandingly efficient evaporation, heated by gas, oil, steam or electricity; and the Bianco “400” T-Compact tubular compactor with motorized magnetic stretcher for consistent, uniform compacting and a high quality finish. The two partner companies, both leaders in the sector, through their “networking”, are building a repertoire of increasingly specialized skills. By refusing to compete 90 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
with each other they join forces to increase competitiveness and offer superior quality products, to the ultimate benefit of the client. The aim of this business partnership is effectively to work together to withstand the competition, continuing in their roles as the best on the Italian and international markets and reinforcing the “Made in Italy” image in the world through their common efforts, resulting in innovation, technology, and excellent, original products. Until now, Italian firms have
depended solely on their own resources and the merits of their entrepreneurs to make good in the market. This tendency has given rise to many formidable and highly skilled manufacturing companies, but unfortunately has not been accompanied by the development of a corporate spirit essential to compete in today’s globalized market. In recent years Italian companies, in the grip of the financial and manufacturing crisis, have acted fast as they seek to restructure to
processing confront the new reality, often with disorganized incursions into fields which were traditionally not their own. This has caused further deterioration in the markets. Moreover, lacking a solid coherence at home, they have often turned to foreign partnerships, with the consequent damaging transfer of skills and the growth of new competitors. In the panorama which is currently presenting itself, however, it is fundamental to find systematic ways to capitalize on the enormous potential in quality, technical skills and know-how offered by Italian firms, and to raise awareness of the fact that healthy competition within the country can bring about excellent results: cogent product promotion, widespread presence in world markets and thus greater competitiveness. Against this backdrop Bianco and Unitech have acted decisively, overcoming their natural caution and laying the foundation for common projects, combining technical expertise, quality and compromise to move beyond traditional antagonism between firms and face increasingly challenging markets. The Tubular Box Solution project is a starting point for even more ambitious future projects which will offer an integrated and highly specialized serv-
ice in the hope of creating a virtuous circle of growth and collaboration between firms which believe in each other, thus signalling a new cohesion, so that Italian products, from this solid base, can ultimately conquer new markets. Focusing on research, innovation and technology, both Bianco and Unitech have had the determination to constantly update themselves, and are now ready to satisfy the ever-changing demands of the market. With this initiative they also aspire to highlight the importance of changing attitudes as they themselves have done, rather than thinking only of themselves. This fruitful partnership is producing numerous tangible ideas, allowing Bianco and Unitech to tackle the challenges of the market from a stronger, more decisive base and a better understanding of the new scenarios, making them even more reactive to the changing needs and demands of clients, who in turn benefit from greater solidity, skills and product quality. The entire system cannot fail to see the positive signs in initiatives like this, which spread winning rationales on an international level. w
Statement about ownership and other particulars about newspaper THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE – FORM IV 1. Place of Publication
: CHENNAI - 600 017.
2. Periodicity of its publication : MONTHLY. 3. Printer’s Name Nationality Address
: B. Ashok Kumar (Rathna Offset Printers) : Indian : 40, Peters Road, Royapettah Chennai-600 014
4. Publisher’s Name Nationality Address
: R. Natarajan (Gopali & Co.) : Indian : No.38/2, Thomas Rd., T.Nagar, Chennai-17
5. Editor’s Name Nationality Address
: R. Natarajan, B.A. : Indian : No.38/2, Thomas Rd., T.Nagar, Chennai-17
6. Names and address : R. Natarajan - Partner of individuals who own the No.38/2, Quanta Zen Bldg., Thomas Rd., newspaper and partner T.Nagar, Chennai-17 I, R. Natarajan, hereby declare that the particulars given above are true to the best of my knowledge and belief. Dated: 1-3-2013
(Sd.) R. Natarajan Signature of Publisher.
The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013 | 91
international news
Weiqiao Textile Company Ltd., a non State-owned enterprise, is the largest cotton textile producer in China, specializing in the production, sales and distribution of cotton yarn, grey fabric and denim. In the past 10 years, the group developed largescale production capabilities by capitalizing on Chinaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rapid economic growth. It has achieved a stable position in the global textile markets by employing advanced technology in its stateof-the-art facilities. 92 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
Ms. Zhang Hongxia, Chairman and General Manager, Weiqiao Textile
international news
Weiqiao Textile is located in Shandong, China’s second largest cotton producing province. It has four production bases, in Weiqiao, Binzhou, Weihai and Zouping, and employs approximately 82,000 people. As at December 31, 2012, the group produced approximately 450,000 tons of cotton yarn, 1,045,000,000 metres of grey fabric and 89,000,000 metres of denim. Since the beginning of 2012, the Chinese textile industry has been facing a very complex and volatile environment both domestically and overseas. A variety of adverse factors such as weak demand in overseas markets, slowing growth in domestic markets, widening gaps between domestic and overseas cotton prices, and increasing production costs has resulted in a notable slowdown in China’s textile industry. However, growth rates of the textile industry’s major economic
indicators have picked up slightly since September of 2012 due to stable growth in domestic demand, adjustments made by enterprises in commodity inventory levels, and lower comparable basis in 2011, while the gap between domestic and overseas cotton prices continued to widen, and demand from international markets remained sluggish, leaving the prospect for an industry recovery a little uncertain. In 2012, as market conditions in the textile industry were grim, the group recorded revenue of ap-
proximately RMB 15,248 million, about the same level as in 2011. Net profit attributable to owners of the parent company was approximately RMB 482 million, representing an increase of 95.9 per cent as compared with 2011. Earnings per share were RMB 0.40. The Board recommended payment of a final dividend of RMB 0.1246 per share (tax inclusive) for the year ended December 31, 2012. During the year, the group’s production volume of cotton yarn, grey fabric and denim were ap-
The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013 | 93
international news
proximately 450,000 tonnes, 1,045 million metres and 89 million metres, respectively. The production volume of cotton yarn, grey fabric and denim decreased by approximately 27.2 per cent, 10.3 per cent and 12.7 per cent respectively, year over year. The decrease was mainly because of intense competition in the industry during the year under review as a result of the weak demand in the textile products market and large cotton price gap between domestic and overseas markets. The group adjusted its production plan in order to reduce its inventory level. Commenting on the company’s performance in 2012, Ms. Zhang Hongxia, Chairman of Weiqiao Textile, said: “During the year, the international market for textile products and apparel remained sluggish due to the adverse effects of the weak recovery in the global economy and the sovereign debt crisis in Europe, while competition became more intense. In addition, part of export orders for textile products and apparel began shifting 94 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
from China to neighboring countries with lower production costs, especially for lower-end products, thereby further intensifying international competition. In 2012, domestic cotton prices remained stable while overseas cotton prices declined continuously, making overseas cotton much cheaper than domestic cotton. As a result, cotton costs remained high for textile companies in China, which adversely affected the competitiveness of Chinese companies in the global markets. We were also affected to some extent.” “Looking into 2013, the recovery of the global economy still holds many uncertainties. As a result, Weiqiao Textile will continue to improve its product mix, encourage innovation, strengthen its brand image, and further enhance its profitability. In the meantime, by leveraging the group’s competitive advantages, which include global cotton procurement channels, selfgenerated electricity and steam supplies, Weiqiao Textile will continue its efforts to control costs and main-
tain, or even increase, its market share in the face of continued market turbulence through proactive sales strategies and flexible pricing policies. The group’s management believes that its operating efficiency and strategy will benefit once the market recovers”, she added. Despite the challenging market conditions, Weiqiao Textile Company continued to strengthen its business development capabilities, internal management and cost controls, as well as optimizing resource allocation. It also continued to further optimize its product portfolio to cater to market demand and took a more flexible sales strategy to reduce the inventory level of finished products, increased the proportion of medium and high-end products, and made other improvements across its value chain from research and development to procurement, production and marketing and sales, so as to ensure its stable operation. The revenue generated from sales of cotton yarn, grey fabrics and denim were 45.3 per cent, 49.7 per cent and five per cent respectively.
international news Given below is the breakdown of revenue, product-wise: Products
Revenue in 2012 (RMB 000’)
Revenue Change in 2011 (%) (RMB 000’)
Sales proportion for 2012 (%)
Cotton yarn
6,902,721
6,252,705
10.4
45.3
Grey fabric
7,583,270
8,138,605
-6.8
49.7
761,482
820,658
-7.2
5.0
483
20,066
-97.6
0.0
15,247,956
15,232,034
0.1
100.0
Denim Others Total
For the year ended December 31, 2012, the proportion of the group’s revenue from cotton yarn increased compared with the corresponding period of the previous year, while the proportion of revenue contributed by grey fabric decreased. It was mainly because the group adopted a flexible sales strategy to reduce cotton yarn inventory according to the changes in market demand that led to an increase in revenue generated from cotton yarn. The proportion of revenue from denim remained at about the same level as compared with the corresponding period of the previous year.
proximately RMB 180 million for the corresponding period of the previous year. In particular, transportation costs increased by approximately 15.4 per cent to RMB 150 million from RMB 130 million in 2011, which was mainly due to the increased sales volume of the group products during the year. Salary of the sales staff was approximately RMB 28 million, representing an increase of 64.7 per cent as compared with RMB 17 million for the corresponding period of last year, which was primarily due to the increase in the group’s domestic sales during the
For the year ended December 31, 2012, the breakdown of revenue, region-wise, is as follows: Regions
Revenue in 2012 (RMB 000’)
Revenue Change in 2011 (%) (RMB 000’)
China
10,367,191
10,326,648
0.4
68.0
2,610,779
1,037,645
151.6
17.1
817,960
1,789,984
-54.3
5.4
1,452,026
2,077,757
-30.1
9.5
Hong Kong East Asia (1)
Others(2)
Sales proportion for 2012 (%)
Note (1): East Asia includes Japan and South Korea Note (2): Others mainly include South-East Asia, the US, Europe, Taiwan and Africa
Selling and distribution expenses The group’s selling and distribution expenses increased by 14.4 per cent to approximately RMB 206 million for the year ended December 31, 2012, from ap-
year, which resulted in the increase in sales staff’s salary. Sales commission was approximately RMB 10 million, representing a decrease of 47.4 per cent as compared with approximately RMB 19 million of the corre-
sponding period of the previous year, which was primarily due to a decrease in the group’s overseas sales through intermediate traders during the year, which resulted in a decrease in the commission paid accordingly. Administrative expenses of the group for the year ended December 31, 2012, amounted to approximately RMB 252 million, representing an increase of 9.1 per cent as compared with approximately RMB 231 million of the corresponding period of the previous year. It was primarily due to the upward adjustment of the salary of the administrative management staff. Finance costs For the year ended December 31, 2012, finance costs of the group were approximately RMB 629 million, representing an increase of 34.4 per cent as compared with RMB 468 million of the previous year, among which interest expenses amounted to approximately RMB 599 million, representing an increase of 5.3 per cent as compared with RMB 569 million of the previous year. This was mainly attributable to the increase in the interest rates of bank borrowings during the year. The exchange loss amounted to approximately RMB 30 million for holding a large amount of balances of payables and loans denominated in the US dollar, which was affected by the depreciation of the Renminbi, while an exchange gain of RMB 102 million was recorded in the previous year. w The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013 | 95
innovation
96 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
innovation
INVISTA, one of the world’s largest integrated producers of polymers and fibres, offers its COOLMAX and THERMOLITE fabric technologies to cater to the performance socks category in the Indian textile and apparel market. Known for delivering exceptional value for customers through its fiber and fabric technological expertise, INVISTA is working across the value chain from spinners to socks knitters to retail brands, thereby facilitating development of performance socks in the country. Packed with moisture management technology and comfort, COOLMAX socks cater to the end-consumer’s need for dry comfort and high performance. Mr. Rohit Pal, Regional Managing Director, Renfro Europe, Asia and India, states: “Renfro Corporation is the largest global hosiery company in the world. Renfro India is the market leader in domestic as well as export market in the country and has a portfolio of 10 licensed brands and exports. Globally Renfro Corporation and locally Renfro India lead technological innovation, selling more than 700 million pairs of socks globally. COOLMAX socks offer to the retailers an innovative yarn with several performance
characteristics and are being widely used by several licensed brands.” COOLMAX socks are engineered from four-channel fibers that move perspiration away from the body and through the fabric for quick evaporation, thus keeping the wearer feel cool and dry. This is the reason why COOLMAX socks are a preferred choice among sock knitters across the globe. Mr. Danny Hansotia, Director, Spenta International, adds: “Moisture management is one of the key requirements of activewear brands, and COOLMAX fabric technology is a good and durable way to impart this functionality.” A testimony to the high performance of COOLMAX socks is that performance socks brands like Asics, Injinji Darn Tough Vermont, Fox River, Klim, Lorpen, SofSole Thorlo, Timberland, etc., are using this technology.
The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013 | 97
innovation Mr. Ravi Chamria, Director, New Horizon Knits, comments: “With COOLMAX fabric technology, we have been able to enter the performance socks market in Europe and the US, and the response we have received from our customers has been promising. COOLMAX socks are extremely popular in the US and North America for their performance characteristics. We are constantly receiving enquiries for this product from the domestic as well as the export market and are looking forward to expanding our product portfolio with high performance COOLMAX socks.” Fabric performance efficiency tests have shown that after 30 minutes drying time, COOLMAX fabric loses 93 per cent of the moisture as compared to cotton that loses 50 per cent. This clearly demonstrates the effectiveness of
COOLMAX socks as compared to regular cotton socks. Mr. Raj Jain, Managing Director, Bonjour, says: “COOLMAX socks are ideal for hiking, running, cycling, golf, tennis and leisure activities. The end-consumer response for this product has been fantastic!” Now INVISTA has brought this technology to the Indian socks industry to develop high performance products for the local as well as export markets. Mr. Andrew Evans, Managing Director, INVISTA South Asia, comments: “The performance socks market in India is currently untapped and holds immense potential for future growth. With the increase in awareness levels the consumers are demanding good quality functional products. We are confident that our capability to offer the smartest active wear technologies in
addition to our end-to-end engagement across the value chain would definitely act as a driver for the performance socks category in the country.” To make sure that the product is widely available, INVISTA has joined hands with a number of socks knitters in India. Some of the key names include Renfro, New Horizon Knits, Bonjour, High Street Fashion and Spenta. Mr. R.K. Sethia, CEO of High Street Fashion that has a popular in-house socks brand, says: “Domestic socks market is very price competitive, therefore COOLMAX socks have given us a clear platform to offer value-added products to our customers”. COOLMAX fiber in socks is generally used in blends with cotton. To feed this growing socks industry, INVISTA has joined hands with Gokak Textile Mills and RSWM over the last year to supply spun yarns of COOLMAX fiber. A major benefit of using COOLMAX fabric technology in socks is that its properties cannot be washed away. Its performance characteristics are being recognized by socks knitters owing to the immensely positive response from the buyers in local as well as international market.
w 98 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
industry update
New schemes introduced to boost
Textile & clothing exports There has been steady increase in export of textiles and clothing products over the years. It increased from $22.41 billion in 2009-10 to $33.31 billion in 2011-12. However, during April-January 2013 a decline of 7.55 per cent in dollar terms has been noticed. This is largely attributable to slowdown in the traditional markets of the US and the EU. Details of textiles and clothing produced and exported during the last three years and the current financial year, country and item-wise, as well as details of the schemes launched by the Government to increase exports of textiles are given in the accompanying tables. There is regular review and evaluation of export-related schemes for the textiles sector by the Government as well as implementing agencies/committees/councils and, wherever required, necessary directions are issued and the schemes realigned to suit the demands of the 100 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
global market. The Government has introduced various schemes for promotion of textiles and clothing exports. Several provisions are included in the Foreign Trade Policy 2009-14 for providing incentives for textile
& clothing exports, including those for exports to focus markets and focus products, interest subvention on pre-shipment credit, duty-free import of trimmings, etc., required by the garmenting industry and duty-free import of tools by the
Production of Textiles
Production of textile items
Items
(April-Jan) Unit
2010-11
2011-12
Man-made fibre
Mn. kg.
1285
2012-13 2011-12 (Prov.)
1234
1057
1030
Spurn yarn
Mn. kg.
4713
4372
4001
3629
Man made filament yarn
Mn. kg.
1550
1463
1178
1215
Mn. sq. mtr
62559
60453
51189
50298
Fabrics (including khadi, wool & silk)
Source: Textiles Commissioner, Mumbai.
2819.46
1383.42
1411.12
Silk
RMG of silk
Natural silk yarn, fab. & madeups
281.07
300.19
144.20
307.63
Floor covering of jute
Other jute manufactures
Jute yarn
Jute hessian
845533.64
12.54%
178751.43
12.54%
22418.79
65.04
30.48
63.46
59.42
218.40
160.60
160.60
8.58
727.61
225.48
961.67
21078.12
264.85
5.27
298.32
292.46
596.05
89.84
380.36
470.20
3613.46
357.42
3970.88
3695.20
2016.20
5711.41
801.82
1214.59
8048.32
10064.73
1142921.92
11.05%
126281.18
722.87
531.81
499.56
337.83
2092.07
726.49
726.49
11.69
4706.65
1170.51
5888.85
117573.77
1574.95
44.07
1660.80
1169.26
2874.13
501.20
1510.93
2012.13
19490.38
1920.18
21410.56
26360.84
13160.47
39521.31
4419.36
6729.19
39032.14
50180.69
US$ Mn
251136.19
11.05%
27747.98
158.84
116.86
109.77
74.23
459.69
159.63
159.63
2.57
1034.20
257.20
1293.97
25834.69
346.07
9.68
364.93
256.92
631.54
110.13
332.00
442.13
4282.65
421.92
4704.58
5792.31
2891.77
8684.09
971.07
1478.62
8576.60
11026.29
2010-11 Rs.Crore
1459280.51
10.93%
159570.55
920.52
282.01
736.46
251.80
2190.79
1020.62
1020.62
19.21
4032.83
1118.94
5170.98
151188.16
2653.95
49.77
949.02
1267.08
2265.87
726.24
1707.92
2434.16
24262.83
2711.31
26974.14
32611.83
21623.06
54234.89
6078.55
10429.49
46117.11
62625.15
304623.53
10.93%
33310.21
192.16
58.87
153.74
52.56
457.33
213.05
213.05
4.01
841.85
233.58
1079.44
31560.40
554.01
10.39
198.11
264.50
473.00
151.60
356.53
508.13
5064.84
565.98
5630.83
6807.69
4513.79
11321.49
1268.89
2177.15
9626.91
13072.95
US$ Mn
2011-12(P) Rs.Crore
27.68%
26.36%
27.34%
-46.97%
47.42%
-25.47%
4.72%
40.49%
40.49%
64.33%
-14.32%
-4.41%
-12.19%
28.59%
68.51%
12.93%
-42.86%
8.37%
-21.16%
44.90%
13.04%
20.97%
24.49%
41.20%
25.99%
23.71%
64.30%
37.23%
37.54%
54.99%
18.15%
24.80%
US$
2256.18
42.27
809.80
1008.42
1860.49
593.06
1475.84
2068.90
20249.94
2190.54
22440.48
26962.48
16678.96
43641.44
4760.65
8290.54
37488.32
50539.51
766.79
229.44
633.39
211.73
1841.35
840.99
840.99
16.89
3316.01
1007.06
4339.96
10.87%
10.87%
27328.06
161.40
48.30
133.32
44.57
387.59
177.02
177.02
3.56
697.99
211.98
913.53
10.49%
137619.44
722.49
207.72
613.40
223.35
1766.96
891.94
891.94
17.87
4403.96
984.20
5406.03
129554.51
2446.53
53.60
713.66
1065.81
1833.07
544.22
1382.10
1926.32
20329.08
2195.16
22524.24
32900.98
14203.61
47104.59
6313.52
10794.46
36611.78
53719.76
6.29%
6.00%
-5.78%
-9.47%
-3.16%
5.49%
-4.04%
6.06%
6.06%
5.80%
32.81%
-2.27%
24.56%
5.49%
8.44%
26.80%
-11.87%
5.69%
-1.47%
-8.24%
-6.35%
-6.89%
0.39%
0.21%
0.37%
22.03%
-14.84%
7.94%
32.62%
30.20%
-2.34%
240941.41
9.87%
US$
-4.18%
-7.55%
-17.83%
-21.04%
-15.54%
-8.00%
-16.31%
-7.50%
-7.50%
-7.73%
15.83%
-14.77%
8.64%
-8.00%
-5.43%
10.59%
-23.14%
-7.82%
-14.07%
-19.97%
-18.33%
-18.80%
-12.45%
-12.60%
12.46%
6.42%
-25.73%
-5.87%
15.66%
13.55%
-14.83%
-7.30%
Variation Rs.
10.49%
25263.74
132.63
38.13
112.61
41.00
324.37
163.74
163.74
3.28
808.47
180.68
992.42
23783.21
449.13
9.84
131.01
195.66
336.51
99.91
253.72
353.63
3731.95
402.98
4134.93
6039.86
2607.45
8647.31
1159.02
1981.61
6721.08
9861.70
US$ Mn
2012-13(Apr-Jan)(P) Rs.Crore
21.30% 1194588.11 251451.51 1312482.58
20.05% 129829.30
20.98%
-49.62%
40.05%
-29.19%
-0.52%
33.46%
33.46%
56.12%
-18.60%
-9.18%
-16.58%
25849.92
474.91
8.90
170.46
212.26
391.62
124.83
310.65
435.49
4262.45
461.09
4723.55
5675.39
3510.79
9186.18
1002.08
1745.09
7891.00
10638.17
US$ Mn
2011-12 (Apr-Jan) Rs.Crore
22.16% 122807.00
60.09%
7.29%
-45.71%
2.95%
-25.10%
37.66%
7.39%
14.93%
18.26%
34.14%
19.69%
17.53%
56.09%
30.37%
30.67%
47.24%
12.25%
18.56%
Variation Rs.
Source: Foreign Trade Statistics of India (Principal Commodities & Countries), DGCI&S for export figures in Rupee and Department of Commerce(Intranet) -Exchange rate. * Handloom Products have been included as commodities first time in 2009-10
Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s overall exports
% Textile exports
106045.80
1033.09
Jute
Textiles (incl. HC, coir & jute)
759.66
Coir & coir manufacturers
3441.74
Carpets (excluding silk) handmade
759.66
1066.58
Handicrafts (excluding handmade carpets)
Coir & coir manufacturers
4548.91
Handicrafts
40.59
99704.14
Textiles (excl. HC, jute & coir)
Silk carpets
1252.81
Handloom products*
24.92
424.94
Woollen yarn, fabrics & madeups
Silk waste
1799.20
18783.13
Man-made textiles
RMG of wool
17479.13
Cotton yarn, fabrics & madeups
2224.14
9537.08
Cotton raw including waste
Wool & woollen textiles
27016.21
Cotton textiles
1690.68
3792.77
RMG of other textile material
17092.45
5745.29
RMG of man-made fibre
Manmade yarn, fab. & madeups
38070.33
RMG of cotton incl. accessories
Manmade staple fibres
47608.39
Readymade garment
US$ Mn
2009-10
Rs.Crore
Item
Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s textiles exports at a glance (Principal Commodities)
industry update
The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013 | 101
industry update India Export Statistics Commodity: Textile & Clothing, Ch50 to 63 Annual Series: 2007-2011, Year To Date: 12/2011 & 12/2012 Millions United States Dollars Partner country
Calendar year
2010
World United States
2011
2012
% Change
27188
32642
32845
0.62
4946
5779
5994
3.73
China
2325
2928
3907
33.47
United Arab Emirates
1798
2162
2172
0.46
United Kingdom
1667
2087
2080
-0.36
Germany
1528
1959
1567
-20.02
Bangladesh
1105
1101
1659
50.74
Italy
778
1030
774
-24.84
France
810
1017
823
-19.11
Spain
667
814
732
-10.01
Turkey
667
731
659
-9.89
Netherlands
523
728
626
-14
Belgium
474
615
477
-22.52
Brazil
497
557
544
-2.34
Saudi Arabia
473
540
547
1.33
Sri Lanka
397
502
483
-3.81
Egypt
338
492
493
0.21
Canada
347
431
402
-6.82
Japan
261
397
402
1.29
Denmark
281
381
308
-19.27
Pakistan
657
381
410
7.56
Source: Ministry of Commerce through GTIS
handicrafts industry. The other measures taken by the Government to aid the growth of Indian textiles exports are the two per cent interest subvention scheme for the readymade garments sector
102 | The Textile Magazine MARCH 2013
extended up to March 2014; additional incentives for incremental exports to the US, the EU and Asian countries; additional duty credit of two per cent of FOB value given on export of certain knitwear apparels
for 2013-14; inclusion of new markets such as New Zealand, Cayman Islands, Latvia, Lithuania and Bulgaria under the Focus Market Scheme; two per cent market-linked Focus Product Scheme (MLFPS) for the US and the EU extended up to March 31, 2013; use of the Focus Market Scheme, Focus Product Scheme, status holder incentive scrip and MLFPS for payment of excise duty for domestic procurement; and extension of zero duty EPCG scheme up to March 31, 2013. The plan of action prepared by the Government to boost textile exports are continuation of MAI (Market Access Initiatives) and MDA (Market Development Assistance) to apparel export for market diversification and to increase their share in world trade; skill development programme through Apparel Training & Design Centres (ATDCs) to make available skilled workforce to the apparel export sector; assistance under the Common Compliance Code Scheme; and assistance under the Technological Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS).
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men at the helm
Sushil Virmani to head Eaton’s consolidated operations Eaton has announced that its New Delhi-based Power Distribution and Power Quality commercial organizations for South Asia have been consolidated and Mr. Sushil Virmani has been named as Sales Director, Electrical Sector, South Asia, to lead the consolidated organization. He will report to Mr. Anoop Nanda, Managing Director - Rest of Asia, Electrical Sector, Eaton. The consolidation aims at increasing Eaton’s penetration in key market segments, leveraging the company’s key account strategy, increasing value assemblies and solutions sales, and growing the overall business in South Asia. “I believe Sushil’s vast experience and contributions will play a crucial role in implementation of many new strategies and programs that we are developing as part of our new strategic direction to build business in South Asia,” commented Mr. Nanda. Mr. Virmani has three decades of multi-disciplinary cross-sectorial experience in the power solutions industry and has a proven track record of successful integrated sales campaigns and channel programs. In his new role, he will be leading the South Asia commercial organization and driving a unified strategy in this market. He will identify synergies across product groups and ensure penetration across key accounts and segments. Mr. Virmani has held a variety of senior management roles over his 13 years with Eaton. In his most recent role as Sales Director for Eaton’s Power Quality business in South Asia, he was responsible for the development of the company’s Power Quality sales strategy, channel partner development, and customer service and sales team management across the region. w
Ravi Sam chosen Vice Chairman of CII TN State Council At the CII Tamil Nadu State Council meet held in Chennai, Mr. Ravi Sam, Managing Director, Adwaith Lakshmi Industries Ltd., Coimbatore, was elected Vice Chairman of the Council for 2013-14. Mr. Sam is an active member of CII. He is a member of the CII Tamil Nadu State Council and was the immediate past Chairman of the CII Coimbatore Zone. The Founder Trustee of Siruthuli, a movement for preservation of nature in Coimbatore, Mr. Sam is a Commerce Graduate and holds a PG Diploma in Textile Technology from the University of Manchester Institute of Science & Technology (UMIST). w
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The Textile Magazine â&#x20AC;&#x201C; classified column
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