The Travellist Issue 3

The Travellist

making Waves in Morocco Branislav Bieleny

ABKHAZIAIvanWanderings Dolnikov Il Circo di Nando Marco Marucci

As the Gulf stream flows Johnny Be

ISSUE 3 AUGUST 2015

cafe Crawling in MontrĂŠal Sonia Primerano

Photography by Branislav Bieleny Š 2015

Surfing on a rose background

Disclaimer

Disclaimer

N

o articles, illustrations, photographs or any other editorial matter or publicity features herein may be reproduced without written permission

or consent of copyright holder. All photography and articles contained within remain the property of the individual writer or photographer and is protected by copyright. It is strictly forbidden to reproduce any material contained within this publication without prior written consent. The views and opinions expressed in this publication are those of the individual authors and do not necessarily reflect the views of the publication editorial. The publication and its contributors do not take responsibility for any travel advice contained within this publication as they are subject to real-time changes and are only intended

Cover image by Marco Marucci © 2015

creative Editor-in-Chief Ryner St John Senior Graphic Designer Imam Haja Illustrator Kim Antonissen Logos Kyle Stewart www.kylestewart.com.au Web Design Perry Carbonell www.perrycarbonell.com

PHOTOGRAPHERS Feature Branislav Bieleny Off the Beaten Path Ivan Dolnikov Culture Marco Marucci Spotlight Destination Johnny Be A New Sensation Sonia Primerano Publisher Hachikō Traveller Press Leaderpress Instant & General Printers www.leaderpress.com.au Acknowledgements Eric Hsiao Special Thanks Kim Vu The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p2

THE TRAVELLIST

as a guide.

issue 3 july 2015

The Travellist Magazine is published quarterly. www.thetravellistmag.com All rights reserved © 2015 contact@thetravellistmag.com www.facebook.com/thetravellistmag thetravellistmag.tumblr.com

Letter from the Editor

Welcome to Issue 3 of The Travellist.

I

In this issue, photographer-writer-and graphic designer Branislav Bieleny recounts his surfing adventures in Morocco and shares some magical spots for surfing in this African country. Russian photographer Ivan Dolnikov explores the beauty and wilderness of Abkhazia, little known but astoundingly green. Italian photojournalist Marco Marucci reveals his evocative photo-essay of the Apollo circus, previously headed by Nando Orfei who was Italy’s greatest and most renowned circus artist.

Worldwide globe-trotter Johnny Be reminisces about the meaning of being a “traveller” in Iceland and the Maldives; and Sonia Primerano introduces the concept of café-crawling in Montréal with her wonderful set of images of Montréal’s cafés – coffee has never looked so good!

EDITOR

The Travellist magazine now moves into its third issue and with it comes a new format that sees each issue being categorised into 5 sections. These are: the Feature section, which examines each issue’s major destination or global topic of interest; Off the Beaten Path, which takes us to explore a hidden destination not as commonly travelled; Culture, an exploration of a specific cultural event, place or way of life; Spotlight Destination, a quick glance at some global places of interest; and finally A New Sensation, in which new experiences derived by the five senses are explored and examined.

LETTER FROM THE

am in Singapore, conducting an interview on behalf of the magazine. The weather is hot and humid and as I am on the top floor of my friend’s apartment building, it is easy to get distracted by the view outside the window especially since the Singaporean flag appears to be flying on every building in preparation for the nation’s upcoming 50th anniversary of independence. Getting back to the task at hand, this interview is the first that will be featured on our newly revamped website which will launch at the end of the month. Step by step, our travel community is getting bigger and we are excited to share the journey with you as we add more projects and enterprises to The Travellist brand.

There is but only one issue left for this year but in the meantime, our website will relaunch under a new address.

We welcome you to join us and share your thoughts, ideas and latest travel experiences at our new home away from home: www.thetravellistmag.com Explore, experience and engage.

Stay gold!

editor in chief The Travellist

Credit: Kim Antonissen

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p3

Biographies

I

P

hotographer,

was born in Taiwan, a country

and question the human condi-

Siauliai, Lithuania. I like Spanish

in South-East Asia, but grew

tion, focusing on the notions of

people, I think they have a very

up in the great land down under.

identity and how we view our-

unique culture. I love Estonia!

My hometown is Perth, Austra-

selves in the world. Upon grad-

lia, which is one of the most laid

uating from university, I spent

Follow us!

back cities you will ever find. A

the majority of my twenties

www.facebook.com/thetravel-

graduate from the International

experiencing life on the move –

listmag

Film School of Sydney, I have di-

most notably one year spent in

rected a number of short films,

London, followed by two years

produced a music video which

in Sydney and then another year

saw rotation on MTV Russia,

in Estonia. The place I want to

and was a laureate for the 2012

visit most in the world is the

Les Nuits Photographiques fes-

French town of Carcassonne.

tival in Paris. My interests en-

The other place I really want

compass themes that explore

to visit is the Hill of Crosses in

journal-

a professional dancer in the

as a photographer work-

ist, traveller, creative

city of Bratislava, Slovakia.

ing for a company based

graphic designer and cur-

After a few years Bran left

in Florida, an exciting job

rently an individual living

dancing, and just travelled.

that gave him great oppor-

his adventurous life in Aus-

He was a gadabout, a knight

tunities to travel all around

tralia. Bran has always had

of the road. After 2000, the

the world. The experiences

a close relationship with

time he spent in his home

from his travels were capi-

art, nature and the art of

country became increasing-

talised with a new career

nature. He loved to create,

ly rare. Although from time

in journalism. Bran recently

write, illustrate or dance. As

to time lacking his passport,

graduated with a Bachelor

a teenager he got involved

Bran never forgot his cam-

of Applied Design at the Billy

in national folk dances and

era. From 2006 onwards,

Blue College of Design in

joined dance and music

photography began to be

Brisbane and continues to

folk ensembles. Later in his

his main source of revenue.

pursue his creative career

dancing career he became

He commenced his career

Down Under.

I

Ivan Dolnikov The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p4

Branislav Bieleny

Ryner St John

FEATURE Travel to Page 6

van was born and raised in St

derstand through his photography.

Moya-planeta.ru.

Petersburg, Russia. He studied

Whenever he has an opportunity,

Ivan’s creativity is not limited to

art history at the Faculty of Liberal

he takes out his backpack and sets

photography. He has been writing

Arts and Sciences (Smolny Col-

out travelling. He adores long walks

poetry, prose and songs since he

lege) of the St. Petersburg State

with his camera and editing photos

was 14. He is the author of five po-

University, and now works as a

during long winter evenings - of

etry books and six musical albums.

school culturology teacher. Hav-

nature, color and minimalism. He

He thinks that creative people

ing taken up photography in 2010,

wants to feel and to see all intricate

should turn their ideas into reality

he confesses that he fell in love

details of the world surrounding

using all methods available, work

with the art form before he even

him. Currently, apart from travel-

hard and believe in themselves.

realized it. He is a self-taught pho-

photography, he is also interested

tographer, developing his own art

in product photography. His pho-

of taking photographs by making

tography from his trips to Italy, Ar-

observations and practising. Ivan

menia, Lithuania, Finland and other

likes teaching, learning and sharing

countries have been published

something that he has come to un-

on such websites as Geo.ru and

OFF THE BEATEN PATH Travel to Page 18

Biographies

Marco Marucci

M

arco Marucci is a photogra-

to express the different facets of his

following the lives of a group of wom-

pher who hails from Bari, Italy.

personality as well as a way to evoke

en who work to produce argan oil,

Born in 1982, his foray into the world

others to express theirs; and also as a

Marco next heads to Albania where he

of photography began through exam-

mechanism to bring to light issues of

will engage with two NGOs on two dif-

ining the environment around him and

social importance especially in com-

ferent projects, the first following the

gradually developed into personal re-

munities facing specific challenges,

individuals who run a cooperative that

flections of topics that had resonance

whether that be socio-economic,

work with medicinal plants, and the

to him. His nuanced grasp of captur-

fundamental or cultural. A photog-

second involving the donation of bees

ing images photographically has en-

rapher thus also has a responsibility

to help in the making of honey-related

abled him to convey ideas and emo-

and Marco embraces this challenge

products.

tions derived from subjects pertaining

to bridge the viewer with the subjects

Marco is now based in Turin in north

to current affairs, culture and social

that he documents in his images.

Italy.

issues. He believes that photography

Having recently completed a stint liv-

You can visit his website here:

serves multiple purposes: as a way

ing in a cooperative in rural Morocco

www.marcomarucci.com

CULTURE- Travel to Page 30

J

ohnny or JB to his friends is

lives” - he sees his calling as

he is currently based in Cologne,

a lifelong traveller of Irish-

both a blessing and a curse. As

Germany, studying the French

Portuguese-Nigerian

descent

freedom and mobility increase

and German languages and is

who once asked the question,

so too does security decrease

passionate about getting in-

“Are you a traveller who writes or

and friendships suffer, some-

volved in the translating of sub-

a writer who travels?” 17 years, 5

thing that unfortunately will of-

titles for foreign films. You wake

passports and 52 countries later

ten be the Achilles heel of the

in the morning and realize that

he is still searching for a defini-

adventurer, he says. UK-born and

living on the edge has become a

tive answer. A writer can always

raised in Australia, Johnny has

way of life. A place fraught with

improve, he believes, and what

family & friends living all across

danger? Certainly. A place where

better place to do it than on the

the globe in Oxford, Shanghai,

magic can happen? Why not.

road? Living for long periods

Reykjavik, Torino, Cologne and

of time across four continents

even as far away as Bozeman,

and fascinated with the idea of

Montana. A prolific reader from a

collecting “experiences” or – in

young age, a keen participant of

what has been referred to by an

‘immersion’ language study and

American friend as “living micro

lover of all things related to film,

spotlight destination Travel to Page 42

Johnny Be

Sonia Primerano

M

y photography journey be-

explorer, a capturer of the fleeting,

My camera is an extension of my

gan early in my childhood,

seer of hidden truths, beauty, trea-

Self. I work through my camera,

through the realisation that I saw

sures and gems. My art is pure, in-

through its lens, to capture both

and experienced the world very dif-

tuitive, an honest reflection of my

what is seen and unseen in every

ferently than most. I always had a

perception of life, of the transient,

moment.

passion for art and visual expres-

growing, moving, shifting essence

sion – through drawing, painting

of every day life, people and nature.

and music – but none touched my

There is beauty everywhere. It’s just a matter of taking a closer look.

heart quite like photography. Noth-

Behind-the-scenes and stills pho-

ing affected me quite as much as

tography are my speciality, but I

seeing a photograph that, in one

am also equally passionate about

frame, one still moment, told an

events, gatherings, weddings, pho-

entire story.

tojournalism, travel and life-style

A NEW SENSATION Travel to Page 46

photography.

I am a storyteller, a creator, thinker,

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p5

Feature | Branislav Bieleny | Making Waves in Morocco

They respectfully turn their heads six times a day in prayer to Allah then with a surfboard under their arms determine ownership over the surfing territories on local beaches. This was the impression that we had, as we were a bunch of European surfers visiting this north African country whose inhabitants were mostly adherents of Islam.

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p6

Feature | Branislav Bieleny | Making Waves in Morocco

Making Waves in Morocco Branislav Bieleny

FEATURE

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p7

Feature | Branislav Bieleny | Making Waves in Morocco

T

hey respectfully turn their heads six times a On the other hand, in this part of the world, when it day in prayer to Allah then with a surfboard comes to staking out claims to surfing territories,

under their arms determine ownership over the Moroccans do not exhibit strong symptoms of surfing territories on local beaches. This was the patriotism, which even today occurs on some of impression that we had, as we were a bunch of the Australian or Californian beaches. And maybe, European surfers visiting this north African country

perhaps we were simply lucky enough to find one

whose inhabitants were mostly adherents of Islam. of the best spots for comfortable surfing with no

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p8

Feature | Branislav Bieleny | Making Waves in Morocco

hassle. We were gathered in the nearby village of Taghazout, which is more than half an hour drive to the north from the international airport of Agadir, a coastal town located in south-western Morocco.

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p9

Feature | Branislav Bieleny | Making Waves in Morocco

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p10

Feature | Branislav Bieleny | Making Waves in Morocco

MUSLIM HOSPITALITY AND FOREIGN SURFERS

M

orocco as a nation holds great respect to the unique sport of “performing on the waves.” They are also quite diplomatic in their behaviour towards foreign surfers – after all, why would they need to behave differently? Surfers bring tourist dollars to their country and whilst Morocco is generally considered one of the more developed African countries with rich fields of phosphates and iron ore, many remote villages in coastal areas rely on “surf tourism” as the mainstay of the local economy.

Tourism in Morocco caters for more than just backpackers with empty pockets but also provide adventure expeditions targeting rich foreign retirees driving SUVs. The former type of traveller, as we had the opportunity to find out, do not travel as much in comparison to the latter. Rather, these type of tourists prefer to reside permanently where the best waves are and spend most of their dirhams in a single place. Surfing villages that host such travellers have subsequently thrived more in recent years as surfing in Morocco has accelerated with increased popularity and reputation. To chase the waves in Morocco, enthusiasts come not just from Europe. As we sat quietly on our boards waiting for the right wave to come, we noticed the dialects and accents of other tongues – Canadians, Americans, French, Spanish, Portuguese, and even Australians.

The most prevalent seemed to be French, slightly more than the Spaniards who arrive in Morocco having taken a short sail with their cars on the boat from Gibraltar to Africa.

Morocco as a whole is a pleasing country for foreigners and sees relatively little religious disturbances.

Some t e n years ago, partly for that reason, mysterious and ancient Marrakesh boomed as a huge tourist destination. Money poured into the city from foreigners buying up traditional Moroccan houses called riads in the medina - the ancient quarter of the city - and new fountains and parks sprang up around the city centre. Years later, when the Arab Spring swept across much of the Middle East, the ensuing turmoil took a toll on Morocco’s developing tourism industry as visitor numbers to the country plummeted. Today it would seem that wanderers to Morocco are on their way back to this tremendously colourful part of the world once again. Years of neglect have worn down the ancient cities, however. The authorities have taken note – the city walls have been repaired and much is being done to conserve buildings. Scaffolding surrounded structures everywhere. We found that getting ourselves lost in the medina was where the fun really started.

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Feature | Branislav Bieleny | Making Waves in Morocco

TAGHAZOUT

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Feature | Branislav Bieleny | Making Waves in Morocco

I

n a country where surfing has recently become at least as popular as football, we found the most superb spots for surfing right by the village of Taghazout, a small fishing village that relies primarily on fishing, tourism and the production of argan oil from the argan plant as the main sources of income. Perfect accommodation was afforded

to us in the form of a surf house built right on the edge of the cliff just 50 meters from the Atlantic Ocean. Owned and run by an older Dutchman, we received both quality catering as well as a lack of sleep in equal portions. Surfers in Morocco are loud and every day is a never ending party that lasts all night. However, since we were also in a Muslim country,

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p13

Feature | Branislav Bieleny | Making Waves in Morocco

it was made clear to us that certain things were

Or entertainers using the chain as a leash for their

also taboo. Alcohol was a “no, no” though... I

cheeky little monkey whose mission it was to

must say that it was available for us whenever

please the crowds with acrobatic stunts.

we wanted. Locals know how to make business and westerners were easily able to get “anything”

We also had the opportunity to appreciate the

that came to mind – depending on their wallets, of

culinary chefs of this small Moroccan village,

course – and surely at exorbitant prices.

especially the ones cooking up on the market street. We tried almost everything that was

This classic Moroccan surf village had everything

possible to eat and digest there. The most popular

that one requires. Arabic markets, cosy restaurants

and widely eaten dish is the “tajine”, named after

with local specialities, street traders wearing folk

the earthenware pot in which it is cooked. An

costumes and of course, spectacular surf shops.

assortment of vegetables and camel meat are

After the daily morning dose of wave-riding on the

slowly cooked in a ceramic container fitted with

Atlantic, we would then spend the rest of the day

a cone-shaped blanket made from the same

exploring more of this magnificent place. A cup

material with holes on the top. It soon became a

of strong Arabic coffee on the terrace as a starter

familiar and frequent scene to see this traditional

was then followed by a wander through narrow

food being prepared on an open fire directly out

lanes and covered bazaars fit to bursting with

on the streets. We came to the conclusion that

aromatic food stands, mosques, craft workshops

Moroccan people enjoy the outdoors and basically

and an endless parade of extraordinary people.

everything is happening ‘out there’ in the open,

Old and new constantly collide. A man on a wagon

chatting about life while having a smoke using a

pulled by two mules sits talking on a cell phone.

pipe and local tobacco.

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p14

Feature | Branislav Bieleny | Making Waves in Morocco

ANCHOR POINT The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p15

Feature | Branislav Bieleny | Making Waves in Morocco

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Feature | Branislav Bieleny | Making Waves in Morocco

P

rofessional surfers who return to Morocco are

houses being built on the cliffs. We were lucky during our

also drawn to Anchor Point, a place in perfect

time spent there. Our surfing party stayed just a few min-

constellation with the cliffs and the direction of

utes by car from this incredible surf spot.

the wind with the best waves your eyes can see and heart can beat for. It is also a place where one encounters few

Surfing in any country is a great experience for a terres-

rookie surfers. Clever locals regularly scare the random

trial individual. But Morocco in particular has a special

tourist eager to surf there with horrifying stories about

and unique atmosphere – it’s not just the air from the

the notoriously dangerous reefs at Anchor Point. Then,

Arab markets but also the air from the sea that smells

they are able to keep the waves to themselves without

extremely sexy.

having to share the water with hordes of inexperienced surfers. Despite this, or maybe mainly because of its reputation, Anchor Point has became a splendid and popular place which over time has seen an increasing number of

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p17

Off the Beaten Path - Ivan Dolnikov - Abkhazia Wanderings

Off the Beaten Path Ivan Dolnikov The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p18

ABKHAZIA

Off the Beaten Path - Ivan Dolnikov - Abkhazia Wanderings

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p19

Off the Beaten Path - Ivan Dolnikov - Abkhazia Wanderings

A

bkhazia or - as it is called by

meadows there. Marvelous views of

had been burnt down and destroyed,

the Abkhaz – Apsny, means “a

mountains, gorges and bays are visible

some had remained untouched but

Land of the Soul”. This country

from the coast.

their inhabitants had abandoned them

is famous for both its rich culture and

Abkhazia covers a relatively small

forever. Nowadays, after the murderous

pristine, unspoilt nature. This is truly

territory

square

war, the residents are gradually restoring

a place where hospitality is not only

kilometers. The Psoy river serves as a

peace to their country. The Abkhazian

politeness, but also a centuries-old

boundary between Abkhazia and Russia

landscape is picturesque. Typical for

tradition. Abkhazia is a state on the

to the west and the Inguri separates the

subtropical climates, trees such as

south-eastern coast of the Black Sea

country from Georgia to the east. The

palms and oleanders can be seen on

with the capital in Sukhumi. The country

length of the coast is 210 kilometers.

the coast of the Black sea, whereas

is proud of its long history and incredible

There are a few bays there and the

in the north of the country, where the

culture, combining originality and unique

beaches are wide and gravelly.

Greater Caucasus Mountain Range is

natural beauty. One will find powerful mountain rivers, mysterious caves and gorges, relic forests and wide alpine

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p20

of

about

8665

Abkhazia was torn by warfare between 1992-1993 which left much of the country

devastated.

Some

houses

located, one can find mountain slopes and gorges.

Off the Beaten Path - Ivan Dolnikov - Abkhazia Wanderings

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p21

Off the Beaten Path - Ivan Dolnikov - Abkhazia Wanderings

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Off the Beaten Path - Ivan Dolnikov - Abkhazia Wanderings

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Off the Beaten Path - Ivan Dolnikov - Abkhazia Wanderings

I

n general, Abkhazia is a mountainous country with mountains covering more than 75% of its territory. Abkhazian mountains are famous for their solutional caves - caves that are formed out of soluble rock, such as limestones – of which the most renowned is the Krubera (Voronja) Cave, the world’s deepest known cave which extends 2080 meters into the ground. In contrast, the country’s highest peak is Dombai-Ulgen which rises 4048 meters above sea level. Some passes lead over the mountain range; however, due to tense relations with Georgia, these routes do not function.

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Off the Beaten Path - Ivan Dolnikov - Abkhazia Wanderings

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Off the Beaten Path - Ivan Dolnikov - Abkhazia Wanderings

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Off the Beaten Path - Ivan Dolnikov - Abkhazia Wanderings

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Off the Beaten Path - Ivan Dolnikov - Abkhazia Wanderings

A

bkhazia is also famous for its

of residents began converting to Christianity.

marvelous mountain lakes and the

The second largest religion by number of

most popular one is Lake Ritsa,

adherents is Islam who make up 16% of the

located in the Bzyb’ basin. For those who

population while smaller denominations of

choose to spend their holidays in Abkhazia,

Catholics as well as the adherents of The

it is also worth visiting other lakes such as

Abkhaz Native Religion can also be found in

the Blue, Inkiti and Amtkel lakes as well.

this region.

55% of Abkhazian territory is covered by lush vegetation, which is subtropical on the

Spread along the coast of the Black Sea,

seashore and temperate on the slopes and

Abkhazia demonstrates to the sea its

in the gorges, with various tree species such

overwhelming

as oak, hornbeam, beach and some conifers

mountains covered by dense vegetation,

growing in these habitats.

medieval castles, fortresses and other unique

treasures:

picturesque

historical sites.Whichever city you visit, in About 300, 000 people inhabit the territory.

every place you will have the opportunity

The population is comprised of more than

to visit museums or stroll in amazing

25 ethnic groups with Abkhaz making up the

parks, squares and gardens.

ethnic majority. Most inhabitants of Abkhazia

a relatively small country; however, even a

are Christians who comprise around 60% of

month is not enough for seeing all its sights.

the population. The first Christian churches

Visiting every castle, fortress, colonnade or

in Abkhazia were built in the IV-V centuries

cave is a separate small journey. Therefore,

inside

it is worth planning your trip to Abkhazia well

Roman-Byzantine

fortifications

Abkhazia is

(Pitiunt, Sebastopolis.) In the middle of the

in advance before setting off.

VI century, cathedrals started appearing

Otherwise, you risk losing your head over

outside of these fortifications (Alakhadzi,

the abundance of incredible places that is

Dranda, Lykhny) and gradually the majority

possible to see.

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p28

Off the Beaten Path - Ivan Dolnikov - Abkhazia Wanderings

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p29

Culture - Marco Marucci - Il Circo di Nando

Marco Marucci It is August when I reach the company in Lido di Classe in Ravenna, northern Italy. I enter the circus with caution and discretion, the same way that a stranger might when entering through the open door of an unknown house.

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p30

Culture - Marco Marucci - Il Circo di Nando

Il Circo di Nando CULTURE

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p31

Culture - Marco Marucci - Il Circo di Nando

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p32

Culture - Marco Marucci - Il Circo di Nando

T

he Italian circus Apollo was founded in

nominated film Armarcord, in which he played the

2007 and began touring all over Italy

character Pattaca. Nando Orfei’s circus has been

with new partner Nando Orfei at the helm

for a long time one of the few circuses in Italy that

whose famous name decorates the signs at the

featured only human performers with no animals

entrance. Nando was the most important circus

involved in any of the acts, having long discon-

character in all of Italy; he was a showman and

nected from the past in which Orfei identified as a

had previously acted in a few of legendary director

“tamer” of wild beasts.

Federico Fellini’s movies, in particular the Oscar-

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p33

Culture - Marco Marucci - Il Circo di Nando

authorization that Elvio, the owner of the Apollo circus, gave me, does not prevent me from having to introduce myself to the people I meet, curiously asking who I was. I soon found out that most of the performers were asleep in their trailers, away from the heat, resting throughout the afternoon until seven in the evening.

I

t is August when I reach the company in Lido di Classe in Ravenna, northern Italy. I enter the circus with caution and discretion, the same way that a stranger

might when entering through the open door of an unknown house. I look around, hoping to meet someone’s eye with a smile and thus receive implicit permission to disturb their peace. But all is quiet. When I finally did find someone, the

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p34

Culture - Marco Marucci - Il Circo di Nando

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Culture - Marco Marucci - Il Circo di Nando

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Culture - Marco Marucci - Il Circo di Nando

I

n the morning, the workers are

old Italian movie from the ‘70s. While

particular, I am interested in their

busy spreading the tickets on

Lenny begins his warm-up juggling

childhood. How did they arrange

the benches, cleaning or involved

in the back stage, the women are

things with school?

maintenance

the

working hard to reproduce the same

the friendships? The answers that I

performers start to sweat from seven

strong makeup that needs to be easily

receive are not something that is easy

in the evening when preparations begin

visible under the soft light of the stage

to understand for those who do not

for the show. Everything commences

yet also easily perceived from afar.

live a life on the move, a life made up

from the makeup and keeps going

Standing with the performers in their

of places that are constantly changing

right up until the end of the show.

caravans as they undergo their long

under the wheels of the trailer, of

After, they prepare and rehearse the

preparations before heading to the

characters who bring stories from

performances for the next show, after

stage, I also try to get some answers

near and far, of new and young artists

midnight, to take advantage of the

to the many questions that I have

who learn the art of circus and propose

cooler temperatures, under the huge

about the nomadic life they lead. In

in

work

while

What about

empty chapiteau.

When the sun sets, the lights and the projectors are switched on so that the big tent is illuminated in the darkness and soon, the music will begin to play.

It reminds me of something out of an

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p37

Culture - Marco Marucci - Il Circo di Nando

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p38

Culture - Marco Marucci - Il Circo di Nando

I

soon find out that the inhabitants of this small community can be divided into two distinct categories.

The first are the performers who are well paid and living in huge trailers. Almost all of them are Italians and many of them are related to one another.

The second are the workers who are in equal number to the performers.

They deal with all the things that are not shown on the stage, working hard in the backstage, far from the spot-

light. Many of these workers are Romanians, some are Indians and some are Bulgarians, but all are essential gears for this ancient machine to run smoothly.

I soon become friends with everyone, especially with the workers, due to the fact that they did not have the large homes the performers had and so were used to living in common spaces, thus making them more likely to talk.

Or maybe it was because I had a lot of questions and they simply wanted to speak about their lives. The story is more or less the same for everybody; like many others they arrived in Italy, doing hard work for low wages, and sent remittances back to their home countries which in Italy may not be considered a lot, but to their families made a big difference.

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p39

Culture - Marco Marucci - Il Circo di Nando

T

he performers can be divided into a number of large families: they are all sisters, sons or cousins. All of them are offspring of artists: some can boast lion-tamers in their family trees, others are clowns or great presenters. Lenny is the only exception: his mother was a maths teacher while his father was responsible for a large company and Lenny himself attained a diploma in accounting. But the path he subsequently chose led him to Apollo circus.

There, he earned Elvio’s respect, who entrusted him with the responsibility of the company accounts, and moreover, of the artistic direction of the shows.

Elvio helped me to realize how difficult it was to carry on this ancient art whilst making enough to also feed the mouths of those who worked there. The golden days are over, he says, and the circus must now deal with a fast-moving culture and public opinion that becomes less welcoming every day. The way that the Italian circuses now function, performing in the good old romantic style, with shows and performances that have remained much the same since their inception years ago, is critical for their survival. Children are

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p40

nowadays surrounded by a huge variety of information which they derive from TV shows, from movies, from the internet. They are not used to simplicity anymore. Thus the performers have to find a new kind of show to surprise and amuse them. Something different lest they become erased by the virtual world of new media technologies. They cannot compete in the same field of the unseen, the rare, the bizarre. It is essential that they find their own new language of expression.

The good old Nando passed away a few months ago.

Will the new generation of artists be able to set up a new era of the Italian circus?

Marco Marucci marcomarucci@hotmail.com www.marcomarucci.com tel: +39 320 0660863

Culture - Marco Marucci - Il Circo di Nando

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p41

Spotlight Destination - Johnny Be - The Water Child

Johnny Be

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p42

Spot Light Destination

Spotlight Destination - Johnny Be - The Water Child

Lost loves frozen in time, a heart broken in three places, the youth of the water child bottled in plastic and shipped to five continents, tales of carbon footprints quietly leaked to the press.

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p43

Spotlight Destination - Johnny Be - The Water Child

A

s the Gulf Stream flows north greeting all in its

that the cheap wine of time may be regurgitated as if on

path with a warming embrace, I find myself in

cue.

rural Iceland, a land preserved by its very geog-

raphy, rhunes and attractions intact. Remoteness hangs

Sitting comfortably atop a roughly hewn log stool in Kex

in the air like Atlantic salt, you can almost taste it, a pinch

Hostel, just off the main drag of Laugavegur, I ponder

of brutality balanced by a generous serve of honest fun,

my glass of Einstรถk Toasted Porter, a coffee and choco-

the metallic aftertaste magically flint-like in its ability to

late flavoured Icelandic Lager and local miracle, this his-

conjure up images of Viking rituals, Nordic pride, flaxen-

torical conundrum: is it half empty? Is it half full? Or just

haired warriors and fair- skinned brides. Dark waters en-

a half pint in a land of contradictions and laughter? In

velope history itself, safe and complete in the knowledge

the rest room I wash my hands, a glistening soap made

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p44

Spotlight Destination - Johnny Be - The Water Child

from Icelandic Birch. The water is on the move again.

Beads of sweat depart my brow like so many rats abandoning ship. The Maldives, mirage or mecca? Turquoise

Unlike the Gulf Stream, I will soon travel in reverse from

ripples seemingly constructed by the great Michelangelo

north to south without the benefit of tides. Old questions

himself, stars as bright as lanterns, manta rays big as

remain unanswered. Do I trade youth and freedom for

Chinese kites and then the rain arrives. I am not sure if I

modern day convention? How robust is the stock and

am home free though of one thing I am certain, as sure

what is the end game? If migration feels as natural as

as Odin himself smiles down upon his leather clad dis-

breathing what will drowning feel like in the 22nd century?

ciples, as sure as the sun rises in the east and sets in the

My mouth is dry.

west and as sure as the fluid of time surrounds us, I am water.

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p45

A New Sensation - JSonia Primerano - Café Crawling in Montréal

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p46

A New Sensation - JSonia Primerano - Café Crawling in Montréal

A New Sensation Sonia Primerano

Like its predecessors, it focuses on the quality of the beans, but in addition there is also an emphasis now on who cultivated it and where, as well as the connection between farmers, roasters, and café owners, all of which are intricately woven in this expanding coffee culture web.

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p47

A New Sensation - JSonia Primerano - Café Crawling in Montréal

C

afé culture in Montréal has been steadily on the rise over the past few years with more and more independent coffee shops popping up in all parts of the city. A kaleidoscope of flavours, scents and atmospheres, this rising phenomena mirrors the city’s essence perfectly: Montréal is a dreamy, bold mix of multicultural, cross-global influences, which seep and affect every aspect of daily life.

Above all, Montréal has always been heavily influenced by a long-standing Italian immigrant

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p48

population coupled with an equally rich coffee and food culture - from its famous Little Italy to delicious Italian restaurants and cafés like Olimpico and Caffè Italia. This new wave, or “Third Wave” is a little different, however.

Like its predecessors, it focuses on the quality of the beans, but in addition there is also an emphasis now on who cultivated it and where, as well as the connection between farmers, roasters, and café owners, all of which are intricately woven in this expanding coffee culture web.

A New Sensation - JSonia Primerano - Café Crawling in Montréal

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p49

A New Sensation - JSonia Primerano - Café Crawling in Montréal

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p50

A New Sensation - JSonia Primerano - Café Crawling in Montréal

W

ith a generally more conscious population, straying away from huge corporations like Starbucks and the Canadian chain Tim Hortons is almost to be expected. Coffee and café culture in Montréal (appropriately termed by Montréalers as “café crawling” or the “MTL café crawl”) represents an appreciation for the coffee beverage and its tastes and smells, rather than solely being a method to boost our energy with

caffeine during our regular morning routines. It’s about augmenting the characteristics of its flavours and aromas on our palettes, and for all the coffee connoisseurs and aficionados out there it’s even about going as far as being able to identify the varying flavour profiles of different kinds of coffee - from sweet, delicate and mild, to fruity with hints of citrus and apple, to flowery and fragrant, to nutty, spicy, and even chocolaty. Notably, on top of the primary

focus on espresso and filter coffees, independent coffee shops are also using alternative coffee methods like syphon, vacuum and pourover to reveal and heighten the naturally occurring flavours in each freshly brewed cup.

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p51

A New Sensation - JSonia Primerano - Café Crawling in Montréal

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p52

A New Sensation - JSonia Primerano - Café Crawling in Montréal

Some renowned cafés include Café Myriad, Café Falco, Pikolo Espresso Bar, Dispatch Coffee, Café Plume, Café 8oz, Le Couteau and many, many more!

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p53

A New Sensation - JSonia Primerano - Café Crawling in Montréal

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p54

A New Sensation - JSonia Primerano - Café Crawling in Montréal

M

ontréal’s independent cafés offer city dwellers and visitors alike a temporary safe haven; a place to meet up with friends for a morning, afternoon or weekend hangout; a place to pick up a coffee to go, or somewhere to silently sit with a good book and a fresh cup of your favourite brew. Black, short or long; cappuccino, macchiato, flat white or americano; no matter which way you like it, there is always something for everyone to enjoy.

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p55

A New Sensation - JSonia Primerano - Café Crawling in Montréal

Abkhazia

beauty

The Travellist | Issue 3 | July 2015 p56

A New Sensation - JSonia Primerano - Café Crawling in Montréal

Photography by Ivan Dolnikov © 2015

COPYRIGHT Š 2015 www.thetravellistmag.com contact@thetravellistmag.com Issue 3 // August 2015